Care and propagation of hydrangea at home and in the garden. Keeping a flower in a pot at different times of the year

  • Indoor hydrangea: more capricious, but no less beautiful
  • What is it - indoor hydrangea?
  • Inimitable flowering of indoor hydrangeas
  • Varieties of indoor hydrangeas
  • Growing conditions for indoor hydrangeas
  • Lighting and placement
  • Temperature and ventilation
  • Caring for hydrangea at home
  • Watering and air humidity
  • Top dressing and fertilizer composition
  • Pruning and shaping hydrangeas
  • Transplantation, containers and substrate
  • Diseases, pests and problems in growing hydrangea
  • Hydrangea propagation
  • Video: hydrangea - what to do when buying and how to care for it in the future

Indoor hydrangea: more capricious, but no less beautiful

Luxurious pastel caps of hydrangeas are equally impressive on garden bushes and on much more modest potted plants. The flowering of hydrangeas - their main advantage - can be fully appreciated regardless of the form of cultivation. After all, the greenery of hydrangeas, although irresistible in its own way, still does not make this shrub stand out from the general mass of plants. Moreover, hydrangea loses its leaves in the winter. These moisture-loving beauties with a special “elite” status grow well in the home format. They require very careful selection of temperatures, and are generally demanding in terms of conditions and care, but they also have few competitors.


Indoor hydrangea is more capricious, but no less beautiful.

Hydrangea diseases

If the plant is grown in a dry room and does not receive the proper amount of moisture, the hydrangea will begin to hurt. In addition, the plant is often attacked by spider mites, thrips, and aphids. If care is improper, the following may occur:

  • the leaves begin to crumble and dry out - most likely, the plant does not receive the required amount of moisture;
  • if spots appear on the leaves, this indicates an excess of moisture;
  • the edges of the leaves have dried out - low humidity in the apartment and poor moisture.

If all the rules for caring for indoor hydrangea are followed, the plant will delight you for at least 4 years. And then you can cut it and grow a new one.

What is it - indoor hydrangea?

The beautiful hydrangea, which came to us from the mild subtropical climate of China, has long become a true favorite of gardeners. But hydrangeas are valuable both for floristry and as living bouquets in potted form. Moreover, in the latter version they are used not only to decorate the garden, but also as a houseplant. True, only one type of hydrangea can be called indoor - large-leaved hydrangea.

Indoor large-leaved hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) are rarely called by their scientific name, hydrangea or large-leaved hydrangea, although it is familiar to any gardener. These representatives of the family of the same name (Hydrangeaceae) are large deciduous shrubs, limited to much more modest sizes in rooms.

The leaves of hydrangeas are large, lightly colored, with a muted light green-herbaceous tint. They sit on the shoots in regular order. Their ovoid shape with a beautiful pointed tip only emphasizes their thinness, beautiful matte texture and ability to glow in the sun.

When properly cared for, the bushes seem dense, although, of course, hydrangeas do not have the sensation of a luxurious mass of foliage. The leaf sizes range from 10 to 15 cm; large-leaved hydrangea fully lives up to its name.

The natural height of indoor hydrangeas is from 1 to 1.5 m. But thanks to treatment with inhibitors in flower centers or proper formation, the plants are kept much more compact.

Indoor hydrangeas bloom at a different time than their garden counterparts.

Description of the plant

If you compare photos of garden and indoor hydrangeas, you can clearly see that their main difference is their size. The garden bush stretches up to 1.5–2 meters, and home varieties do not exceed 50 cm .

In other respects they are almost identical. Quite large leaves with jagged edges are elongated in the shape of an egg and have a sharp tip.

Lush inflorescences consist of large sepals, inside which are flower petals. There are several types of inflorescences distinguished by shape: umbrella-shaped, spherical, racemose and cone-shaped.

Describing the palette of colors inherent in hydrangea, many call it a “plant chameleon.”

Not only does it delight us with bright and delicate shades of white, cream, pink, red, crimson, purple, this lush beauty also changes color depending on the acidity of the soil .

Many people are interested in when indoor hydrangea blooms. The answer will please you: as a rule, from the beginning of summer to late autumn. The flowering stage ends with reddening of the leaves, which fall off by winter. The older the plant, the more inflorescences it produces .

Inimitable flowering of indoor hydrangeas

Indoor hydrangeas bloom at a different time than their garden counterparts. Unlike garden beauties that love midsummer, indoor large-leaved hydrangeas begin their parade in February-March and complete their flowering by July. Plants can be forced, so flowering hydrangeas can be found on sale at other times. By changing the dormant period, you can regulate their flowering at home.

The shape of inflorescences in indoor hydrangeas can differ significantly even within the same species. There are varieties with inflorescences resembling perfect balls, there are hydrangeas with flat caps, and there are also those with multi-level shields. They differ in the density of the flowers and the size of the inflorescences - from 5 cm in miniature varieties to more than 20 cm in classic beauties.

In inflorescences, large sterile flowers are located at the edges, as if closing over the fruit-bearing ones, but in varietal plants the shields seem solid and the difference is not noticeable.

The actual flowers of hydrangeas are inconspicuous. They are miniature, looking like a small bead against the background of much brighter, flat and brightly colored bracts that look like diamond-shaped petals. Hydrangea flowers, with their four petals, appear almost papery.

The color palette of indoor hydrangeas is somewhat expanded compared to large-leaved garden hydrangeas. The thing is that flower centers use different tactics to enhance and change color with artificial treatments that cause pigmentation. Thanks to them, a bush on the counter can surprise with its bright blue, light green and even yellow color. But such unnatural beauties will not be able to please you for long and are unlikely to last next year.

The natural range of indoor hydrangeas includes white, pink, purple and blue spectrums in the softest, pastel variations.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Early Blue'.

The unique property of hydrangea

This wonderful flower is interesting for its unusual ability to change the color of its petals. You can use this to create a shade with your own hands that harmonizes with the interior of the room. Hydrangea accumulates aluminum, thanks to which its flowers acquire the desired color.

For example, the petals will turn pink if you add lime to the soil. Adding aluminum sulfate will provide a blue color. Acidic soil will give colors brightness and richness, neutral soil will give a noble pallor. For oxidation, use peat, coniferous soil or sawdust. For alkalization, it is better to use ash, lime and chalk.

You can change the color of your hydrangea yourself using little tricks.

To get blue flowers, add potassium alum to the water for irrigation, about 8 grams per 1 liter of water. You can also spray the bush with a solution of 50 g of aluminum citrate per 1 liter of water.

Some gardeners claim that hydrangea with white petals does not change its color due to the properties of the soil or the addition of any substances. Allegedly, only varieties with blue and pink flowers are subject to such changes. Well, a good reason to experiment at home. Moreover, in this way you will not harm the flower itself.

Varieties of indoor hydrangeas

It is better to choose indoor hydrangeas not by the name of the variety, but by the size of the bushes and the color of the inflorescences. Among them you can find both the brightest and most extravagant monochromatic versions of colors, as well as charming watercolor, unevenly colored cultivars.

The following varieties have become real classics for indoor culture:

  • Compacta is a low-growing variety with very bright, densely spaced leaves and ball-like inflorescences that change watercolor shades of pink.
  • Blushing Bride is a beautiful variety with delicate cream-colored flowers and dark leaves, well branched and medium-sized.
  • Ramars Mars is a compact, low-growing variety with very unusual lilac-blue inflorescences, which change color from soft light green to blue and purple, darkening over time.
  • Early Blue is a very beautiful variety whose light green inflorescences gradually turn blue.
  • Nikko Blue is a variety with spherical inflorescences, which in the right conditions can take on an amethyst shade of dark blue. The bushes are very spreading, often drooping to one side.
  • Europe is one of the most beautiful bluish-purple varieties with watercolor, unevenly colored flowers and very dark, emerald green, heart-shaped, wrinkled leaves.
  • Madame E.Mouillere is an unusual narrow-leaved variety with double flowers of three rows of “petals” with a bluish bloom in the center.
  • Soeur Therese is an elegant white variety with light lilac and heavenly tints of ball-like inflorescences.
  • Red Link is a warm pink dwarf variety with light yellow centers of newly opened flowers, seeming more graceful due to the slightly loose structure of the inflorescences.
  • Magenta - bright pink, with a crimson tint of large 30-centimeter hydrangea inflorescences with an unusual cut edge of the “petals”. The bushes are powerful, about 70 cm high.
  • Red Sensation is a burgundy, deep crimson variety that turns burgundy and purple when grown in acidic soil. Very bright green color and smaller foliage create a curling effect.
  • Prime is a charming pink-red hydrangea with original yellow buds. Flat inflorescences seem to lie on a solid shield on very short stems and a cushion of matte dark green leaves. Maximum height is about 25 cm.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Europe'.

Types and varieties of hydrangeas for indoor cultivation

Indoor hydrangea - planting and care at home

Several dozen varieties have been bred, each with their own characteristics and distinctive features. The goal of breeders is always the appearance and shape of the inflorescence. The green part of hydrangeas has almost no differences between varieties, except for leaf size.

The most exotic variety was jasmine, which can be distinguished by its flowering - it is very similar to the plant of the same name.

Compacta

The variety received its name due to the limited height of the bush. Under the most favorable conditions, this species will not grow above 50 cm. It belongs to the paniculate class. The first inflorescence appears in the first third of summer and is white in color with a pearlescent tint. By the end of summer, the coloring pigments gain strength and acquire a soft pink hue, which will delight you until the first frost.

White hydrangea

Interesting. The foliage of the variety is also smaller in size than that of other representatives of this beautiful plant.

Madame E. Muyer

The variety is famous for its winter hardiness, for which gardeners in the northwestern region and central Russia love it, planting it in their gardens. The indoor relative of the large-leaved Madame Emily also has a green part of considerable size. The upper part of the leaves is glossy, the lower part has fine hairiness. The flowering is spherical, appears in the second half of July and continues until September.

Europa

This variety of domestic hydrangea is also large-leaved. The leaves are covered with small fringe. Depending on the acidity of the soil, the color of the inflorescences can vary from purple to purple-red. Most often it has unevenly spreading blue tones.

Attention! A very moisture-loving variety, it is advisable to mulch the pot with decorative bark so that moisture does not quickly evaporate from the upper layers of the soil.

Souer Tharese

The variety is famous for its white inflorescences, which under certain conditions can acquire a purple or pale blue tint. To maintain snow-white flowers, you should carefully monitor the acidity of the soil. If the PH level begins to indicate acidic soil, the inflorescences will begin to change their snow-white hue to pink.

Red sensation

The variety got its name for the bright colors of the magic balls: from burgundy to juicy crimson. With high acidity of the soil, flowers acquire rich wine tones, close to purple. The red sensation will place its accents on any windowsill.

Ramars Mars

This variety is loved for its lilac-blue color changes during the flowering season. Over time, the balls darken, and when certain fertilizers are applied, they can acquire a purple tint.

It should be noted! The age of the plant also affects the color - the older the plant, the closer to purple the color will be.

Airlie Blue

The flowering of this variety attracts with a beautiful smooth transition from light green to juicy blue. The color change occurs smoothly during one summer season.

Hydrangea Early Blue

Goliath

Large plants are winter hardy and have conical inflorescences. Potted hydrangea is a miniature copy of its larger relative, its flowers form the same elongated cones, one on each shoot, mostly white, which can acquire a pink tint.

Lighting and placement

Even in rooms, hydrangea can grow not only in a brightly lit place, but also in partial shade. Of course, hydrangeas cannot tolerate strong shading, but diffused light is quite comfortable for them.

Most hydrangeas that do not grow into dwarfs do not fit well on window sills over time. They can be placed on furniture or on the floor near a window. The bushes cannot stand direct sunlight; they very quickly lead to the loss of decorative properties of inflorescences and foliage.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Soeur Therese'.

During flowering, it is better to make sure that the lighting remains soft and constant, and that the hydrangeas do not change their orientation in relation to the window: turning or moving can be perceived by the plant as stress and cause accelerated flowering.

Lighting during the dormant period is important for hydrangeas, but not in the same sense as for ordinary indoor plants: hydrangeas need to be placed in a dark place or caps should be placed on the bushes, protecting them from light. True, only after dropping the leaves. “Naked” hydrangeas are returned back to the light only after the buds begin to swell.

Indoor hydrangeas are plants that suppress their neighbors. They are so massive and attractive that few indoor plants can not lose their charm next to them.

But negative influences are not uncommon: hydrangeas next to crops with glossy leathery leaves and impeccable forms may seem more sloppy and lose some of their aristocratic charm. Therefore, it is better to display them as living soloist bouquets and beautiful single decorations. Of course, with the exception of the company of other hydrangeas.

When is it better to replant: the pros and cons of different replanting dates

Transplanting rhododendron from one place to another

Experienced gardeners advise moving the crop to a new place at different times - in spring or autumn. Sometimes a plant needs urgent replanting. It is performed in the summer.

in spring

In spring, hydrangea is replanted even before the bush begins to awaken and buds begin to bloom. It is important that the snow melts completely. The disadvantage of transplanting hydrangea to another place in the spring is that the plant spends a lot of energy restoring its roots. This negatively affects flowering.

In summer in June or July - transplant flowering hydrangea

Many gardeners are interested in whether it is possible to replant garden hydrangea in June or July. This can only be done in extreme cases. At the same time, transplanting a crop during the flowering period is very dangerous. It can lead to a lack of flowering for several years or the complete death of the bush.

in autumn

Autumn is considered the ideal time to plant a plant. Specific timing depends on regional specifics. In the middle zone and in the Moscow region, tree and paniculate hydrangea can be planted in September. Depending on the weather, the procedure is carried out at the beginning or end of the month.

It is best to transplant in the autumn season

In the Leningrad region, bushes can be planted in early or mid-September. This region is characterized by a damp climate, which will benefit the plant. This crop needs sufficient moisture.

Siberia and the Urals are characterized by a short autumn. Therefore, it is better not to move the plant to a new place in the fall. Sometimes it is allowed to be transplanted at the end of August. For the winter, the bushes must be insulated with spruce branches, leaves or lutrasil.

Important! In order for the bush to take root normally, it must have fully matured branches and trunk. Good root development is of great importance.

The southern regions are characterized by warm autumns and mild winters. Therefore, the crop can be replanted in October. Even large-leaved hydrangea can withstand autumn replanting. Most often, the procedure is carried out at the beginning or end of September. The indoor bush should be replanted in April.

Temperature and ventilation

Moving into closed living spaces, hydrangeas become less resistant to temperatures. They need mild conditions and stable cool temperatures, reminiscent of cozy garden partial shade under trees.

Hydrangeas look, develop and bloom best when kept at moderate room temperatures of no higher than 20 degrees from March until October. The range from 18 to 20 degrees is quite suitable for them. The higher the temperature, the faster the hydrangeas will bloom and the less they will reveal the beauty of their leaves.

The dormant period for hydrangeas should be cool. The maximum permissible temperature for wintering a plant is plus 10 degrees. Optimal is about 5 degrees Celsius. Only after wintering in cool conditions can hydrangeas bloom, and the quality of their flowering directly depends on comfortable and stable temperatures.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Red Sensation'.

You can find a suitable place for indoor hydrangeas during wintering either in cellars, basements, cold greenhouses, or between frames or in a cold foyer.

Hydrangeas, like true garden plants, will not refuse to move to the open sky for the summer. It is not necessary to display them on balconies or in the garden, but it is highly desirable.

If you decide to leave the beauties in the room to admire their inflorescences, then they should not suffer from a lack of fresh air. Ventilation should be careful, and if the doors are constantly ajar, it is worth taking measures to protect the bushes from drafts.

If you plan to transfer hydrangeas into the soil or have a large collection, they can also overwinter in the soil - buried, under an air-dry shelter, or together with garden tubs.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Blushing Bride'.

How to care for a houseplant at home?

Keeping it at home requires strict adherence to all care recommendations. Owners who decide to grow hydrangea in a pot may encounter a number of certain difficulties that can destroy the flower. One of the main conditions is proper preparation of the plant for wintering, replanting it and monitoring the condition of the soil.

It should be borne in mind that hydrangea will in any case shed its leaves during the dormant period. At this time, you need to regularly feed the flower, monitor the temperature and humidity levels. The period of active growth and development occurs in the spring months.

Air temperature and humidity

Keeping the flower in a comfortable state at home will help keep the room cool. The best option is a temperature no higher than +20 degrees Celsius. In this case, the hydrangea will be able to delight the owner with flowering for many years.

During the cold season, the plant also needs special care; it is important to maintain a temperature range from +4 to +9 degrees. Overwintering the plant is possible on a balcony or loggia. First, the shoots are shortened by a third of the length and covered with non-woven material.

Important! If the hydrangea freezes during wintering, do not worry; the pruning procedure will ensure rapid restoration and overgrowth of the stem with large leaves.

The owner can learn about excessive heat in the room by the rapid shedding of leaves. Normally, the foliage should be rich green and dense.

The coolness in the room should be combined with a high level of air humidity. The most budget-friendly option is to place a small tray with moss next to the pot; a more expensive way is to purchase a special air humidifier.

Lighting and ventilation

Regardless of where the hydrangea is grown (at home or in the garden), the lighting level requirements are the same. The flower needs good lighting, without direct sunlight. The ideal option for a houseplant is to place the pot a couple of meters from a window located on the south side.

Failure to comply with the rules may result in shedding of leaves and a short flowering period. Throughout the year, the intensity of the lighting level should be at the same level. A slight decrease in lighting can negatively affect the development of hydrangea or lead to its death. The way out is to place the pot on a window or purchase lamps with daylight and install it directly next to the flower.

Fresh, cool air has a beneficial effect on plant growth and appearance. It is worth considering that there should be no draft, especially in the cold season. Ventilate the room regularly for half an hour. In summer, hydrangea will be comfortable in shaded places if it is planted in the ground and on the balcony, if it was previously indoors.

Watering and fertilizing the crop

Attention! The flower loves a high level of humidity, to ensure it you need to regularly and abundantly water the soil, then the plant will develop well and will delight the owner with a long flowering period.

An important nuance - do not allow the soil to dry out; it should always be moist around the rhizomes. Watering the flower is carried out in a tray; the soil on top should dry out a little. Such an irrigation system will allow the root system and flower to grow and develop and will prevent the process of decay, after which saving the flower turns out to be a rather problematic process.

In winter, watering is gradually reduced and resumed in the same volume only after new leaves appear. Hydrangea should be watered with settled water at room temperature.

The flower is fertilized in the summer; mineral fertilizers are added to the soil every 3-4 days throughout the summer. The solution can be purchased at a specialty store or prepared yourself. You will need:

  • 45 g superphosphate;
  • 35 g of potassium sulfate;
  • 35 g ammonium nitrate.

All of the listed components must be mixed and dissolved in 7-9 liters of water. Feeding of hydrangea ends in mid-August. During this period, flower buds are formed and vegetative growth slows down. At the same time, you need to inspect the entire plant for the presence of small root shoots and weak, drying shoots. If present, they are deleted.

Transfer

Hydrangea needs to be replanted annually in fertile soil. The composition of the soil for the flower consists of sand, leaf and turf soil in a percentage ratio of 1:3:3. To minimize plant stress during replanting and not damage the root system, change the container to a larger one and move the hydrangea with soil in a transshipment manner.

  1. Immediately after the flower is moved to a new pot, the soil should be moistened by abundant watering in the pan.
  2. The top of the soil is covered with peat mulch to maintain optimal moisture levels for a long time.

Which container should you choose?

The owner of a hydrangea must know not only how to replant a flower, but also how to choose the right pot in which it will actively grow and bloom. The root system of the plant grows in breadth; preference should be given to low rather than wide containers.

Reference. The new pot should be 1.5-2 cm wider than the old one. Be sure to lay a drainage layer on the bottom to prevent rotting of the roots.

The soil

Soil for hydrangea can be purchased at a flower shop in ready-made form; the mixture is suitable for growing conifers, rhododendrons or azaleas.

If you decide to prepare the soil yourself, you can mix in equal proportions:

  • coniferous, peat and turf soil;
  • add pine bark;
  • sand.

Such soil is better suited for good flower development than simple garden soil due to its acidic environment and looseness.

Remember that the color of the petals depends on the composition of the soil - an acidic environment will color the flowers blue, an alkaline environment will give a beautiful lilac or pink color, depending on the variety. To keep the soil loose and moist, you can add crushed pine needles and bark as a top layer.

The video below describes how to transplant indoor hydrangea:

Trimming

One of the important points in keeping hydrangea at home is its pruning. The flower is trimmed:

  • At the end of the flowering period in autumn. The plant is prepared for wintering by cutting off weak and dry shoots at the root; strong shoots are cut to a third of their length.
  • In the spring. All weak shoots are removed by cutting.

Preparing for winter

Important! In autumn and winter, the flower must be prepared to survive the cold. Watering is halved, soil fertilization is completely stopped and resumed in February.

The optimal place for placing hydrangea is a dry place with good lighting and a temperature range from 0 to +10 degrees.

In February, you need to gradually resume feeding and watering the flower. Proper preparation for wintering and caring for the plant are the key to beautiful and long flowering.

Watering and air humidity

The substrate in pots with indoor hydrangeas should never dry out completely - even during wintering. In accordance with the decrease in temperature, watering is reduced, maintaining very light soil moisture with small portions of water.

During the period of active growth, indoor hydrangeas require fairly active watering, between which only the top 2-3 centimeters of the substrate would dry out. At the same time, it is important to prevent dampness, but to maintain average, uniform humidity.

In the spring, when hydrangeas put on leaf mass, they consume a surprising amount of water, so watering is usually made more abundant just during active growth.

The quality of water for indoor hydrangeas needs to be controlled. It should warm up to the same temperature as the air in the room. Only soft water is suitable for these shrubs. If there are doubts about its quality, it is better to slightly acidify the water to prevent alkalization. Hydrangeas grow well when watered with melt water.

Hydrangeas do not tolerate heat and like average air humidity. If temperatures exceed the comfortable range, to maintain the beauty of the leaves in the crown, it is better to take care of humidifying the air and maintaining humidity levels at least within 55-60%. Hydrangeas can be sprayed using the mist method; they will not refuse any types of homemade humidifiers.

Rules for caring for hydrangea

After purchasing a hydrangea in a pot and growing it at home, you need to provide it with proper care. The following rules must be observed:

  • It is necessary to create a temperature regime that is comfortable for the plant. So, in summer the temperature should not be more than +23 °C, and in winter it should not fall below +7 °C. After the plant blooms, it needs to be moved to a cooler place and watering reduced. If the apartment is hot and the air is dry, the plant will begin to lose leaves and may stop blooming. In addition, if the plant is left in such conditions, then most likely it will not bloom in the spring.
  • Be sure to humidify the air every day, as well as spray the bush with water, this is the only way the plant will be comfortable. It is especially important to spray if the plant is located next to the battery. For spraying, boiled or filtered water is required. This will prevent the appearance of white spots on the leaves. When spraying, it is important that water does not get on the buds.
  • The light should be diffused so that each leaf receives the required amount of light. The best option would be to place the plant near windows facing east. If the window faces north, then the plant will require additional lighting. On the south side it is better to create a barrier to the sun so that the leaves of the plant do not burn.
  • During the flowering period, it is important to ensure that the soil always remains moist. This is the only way the plant can bloom for a long period. If the hydrangea does not bloom, then it should be watered no more than once every 8-10 days. Watering needs to be done with soft, and best of all, melt water. Gardeners freeze water in advance, then defrost it and water it. You can add a few drops of lemon juice to the water, so the plant will also receive beneficial substances.
  • It is better to choose soil with the addition of sand and perlite. It should be soft and airy. This is necessary to ensure that water does not linger in the soil.
  • Fertilizer is applied from March to October once every two weeks. Special products are used that can be purchased in the store. It is best to opt for fertilizers designed for acidic soil.
  • If the plant is mature, then it can be replanted twice a year, and the container for the pot should be larger than the previous one.
  • Hydrangea can be propagated in three ways: seeds, cuttings, and dividing the bush.

Top dressing and fertilizer composition

Indoor hydrangeas are fed only from March, when the length of daylight hours begins to increase, and continue to be fed not only until flowering is completed, but also until the end of October for the formation of high-quality buds. The classic frequency of once every 2 weeks requires reducing the dosage of fertilizers by half.

If you use the full dose, it is better to fertilize every 3-4 weeks. It is worth starting feeding in early spring and finishing in mid-autumn gradually.

Without exception, all hydrangeas prefer special fertilizers for rhododendrons. For indoor beauties, you should not experiment with the composition of fertilizers, because even preparations for beautiful flowering shrubs will not suit them. By reducing the dose, you can use special fertilizers for garden hydrangeas. Organic fertilizers are not applied to indoor plants.

The luxurious blue colors of indoor hydrangeas can only be preserved in the same ways as garden hydrangeas - by maintaining the correct acidity of the soil. Special fertilizers for blue hydrangeas containing aluminum or simple alum, which are applied instead of regular fertilizing, will help enhance the much-desired heavenly colors.

They are used according to the manufacturer’s instructions, strictly observing both the dosage and the frequency of these procedures. But it is worth remembering that blue colors can only be achieved with “colored” hydrangeas - purple or pink, and white ones are never repainted blue.

Another microelement, to the lack of which indoor hydrangeas are very sensitive, is iron. When studying the composition of fertilizers, you should make sure that it is present in the list of elements.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's look at a few of the most popular ones, dividing them into color categories.

Light

Sister Therese (Soeur Therese):

  • inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
  • white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint change color to greenish-pink towards the end of flowering;
  • blooms until September on last year's shoots;
  • dense, spreading shrub.

The inflorescences of the Sister Teresa variety reach 30 cm in size

Madame Emile Mouillere:

  • inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
  • flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then acquire light pink or light blue shades;
  • blooms profusely on shoots of last and this year until October;
  • leaves are narrower than other varieties.

Pruning and shaping hydrangeas

The rapid growth rate often comes as a surprise to those who buy indoor hydrangeas without studying their characteristics. These shrubs develop and grow at an amazing rate, even on windowsills. But pruning is necessary for hydrangeas not for compactness, but for flowering - without it, these beauties will not bloom.

Indoor hydrangeas should be pruned immediately after flowering has finished. If pruned late, hydrangeas will bloom much less, or may not bloom at all. Standard pruning is carried out at 1/3 of the height of the branches. If hydrangeas stretch out in the spring, young branches grow too quickly, they are shortened again to contain them and make them compact.

Sanitary “cleaning” of hydrangeas should be carried out regularly. Removing dry leaves, damaged parts, weak shoots, and cutting off inflorescences as they wilt are necessary not only to maintain a neat appearance, but also to maintain health and reduce the risk of damage to the bushes.

All indoor hydrangeas, as a rule, have much more stable shoots and do not fall apart under the weight of the inflorescences. But if there are signs of sagging branches and poor stability, it is better to tie the bushes to a support.

Hydrangeas are one of the indoor plants that are extremely sensitive to soil reaction and its quality.

How to properly replant garden hydrangea

There is nothing difficult about how to transplant a hydrangea. First you need to choose the right place for planting and suitable soil. This will ensure easy adaptation of the bush.

Selecting a location

When to transplant lilies from one place to another

When choosing a site, it is important to consider that the plant should receive a lot of light in the morning and evening. Moreover, most of the time it should be in partial shade. Full protection from the wind is of no small importance. Otherwise the bushes may break.

Important! It is not recommended to plant hydrangea under trees. Otherwise, the plants will need moisture and begin to compete.

Preparing the pit and soil

To grow hydrangeas, you should use loose and fertile soil. It should have a slightly acidic reaction - 5-6.2 pH. You need to prepare the hole for planting in advance - at least 2 weeks in advance.

The dimensions of the recess for planting depend on the volume of seedlings. Most often they are made 50-60 cm wide. When planting several bushes, it is worth maintaining an interval of 1-1.5 m, since they are characterized by rapid growth.

Hydrangea requires slightly acidic soil

Preparing the plant: with a clod of earth or dividing the bush

To facilitate the process of digging up an adult bush, it needs to be well watered. Thanks to this, the lump of earth will hold tightly and will not fall apart during transplantation. Then you need to carefully dig up the plant from all sides. It is worth retreating 20-25 cm from the center.

After digging, you can plant the plant in a new place. This can be done with a lump of soil. If you plan to divide the bush, the root system of the plant must be cleared of excess soil. Then the plant is divided into several fragments. Each of them must have renewal buds. After this, each bush must be planted on a hill and the root system should be straightened.

Direct transplant

To plant hydrangeas you need to do the following:

  1. Place the plant in the center of the hole.
  2. Sprinkle with soil up to the root collar. It should be flush with the soil surface.
  3. Lightly compact the soil.
  4. Water the bush generously.
  5. If the soil settles, it needs to be replenished.

Important! Finally, the bed needs to be covered with a mulching layer 5-8 cm thick. For this, you can use pine needles or high-moor peat.

To transplant a crop, you need to follow a number of rules

Transplantation, containers and substrate

Unlike many indoor plants, hydrangeas should not be replanted in early spring, at the beginning of growth. The best time to replant these beauties is after flowering and pruning. If you postpone replanting until February-March, the most important period for preparing flowering, the hydrangea will have to face new conditions and begin to adapt, which is why it may not bloom at all.

But for hydrangeas it is better to violate the requirement to replant after the plant fills the old pot with roots. They are replanted annually, grown in fairly compact containers that allow them to develop throughout the year. Hydrangeas prefer wide and shallow pots.

Hydrangeas are one of the indoor plants that are extremely sensitive to soil reaction and its quality. Even the slightest differences from the preferred pH values ​​or unusual deviations in the new substrate are manifested primarily in the colors of the plant: hydrangeas bloom differently in different conditions.

To fully appreciate the characteristics of the variety and the color scheme of the plant, you should grow hydrangeas only in a special substrate for rhododendrons. This especially applies to hydrangeas with a cold palette of colors - blue, purple, blue-violet shades. Any hydrangeas feel uncomfortable in soil whose pH values ​​go beyond 4-5.

Hydrangeas are handled very carefully, without contacting the roots and without destroying the earthen coma. After planting hydrangeas, water them abundantly. It is better to keep the plant in high air humidity, very “mild” temperatures and lighting until growth resumes and adaptation is completed. Drainage at the bottom of the container is required.

Indoor hydrangeas prefer mulching the substrate - both clean peat and decorative mulch (which does not interfere with air access to the roots) are suitable.

Transplantation and care after purchase

Any flower, including hydrangea, cannot be replanted immediately after purchase. It must adapt to new conditions, growing in a pot on the windowsill, this will take from 2 to 4 weeks. Subsequently, one should not forget about regular transplants; at home, they should be carried out at intervals of 3 years. Only proper care of hydrangea will give abundant flowering and a lush crown of the bush.

Hydrangea is able to please its owner with chic and lush flowering, provided that the pot for it is voluminous, because the roots love space and grow in breadth. Therefore, you need to ensure that the size of the plant matches the volume of the container.

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When replanting, the pot should not be much larger than the previous one. You can buy ready-made soil “for hydrangeas,” or you can prepare the mixture yourself. To do this, take sand, leaf and turf soil in a ratio of 1:3:3.

The pot for hydrangea is not deep, but wide, since its roots grow wide. If you take a container that is too large, the plant may not bloom for a long time.

To preserve the root system, the bush is simply transferred to another pot when transplanted into another pot. This protects the flower from stress.

A thick layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of the pot. On him

a small layer of prepared earthen mixture. Then we dump the hydrangea out of the pot along with the lump, which is placed in a new container. All empty spaces in the pot are filled with earthen mixture, but the neck of the plant should not be buried.

Immediately after transplanting, the hydrangea is watered abundantly so that the moisture does not evaporate quickly, and the soil surface is mulched with peat.

Diseases, pests and problems in growing hydrangea

Indoor hydrangeas suffer only in the wrong conditions and with insufficient care. Spider mites and aphids usually attack bushes suffering from insufficient moisture, but rot occurs when the substrate is damp. Any deviation in temperatures, feeding, watering, lighting leads to changes in leaves and slower growth.

When taken out onto the balcony or into the garden, the plant may be affected by powdery mildew. Problems are best dealt with by combining correction of conditions and treatment with insecticides or fungicides.

The only propagation method used for indoor hydrangeas is cuttings.

Diseases and pests

Among the possible diseases, hydrangea is affected by chlorosis, rot, and powdery mildew. At the first signs of trouble, the bushes are sprayed with systemic fungicides. Pests that like to feast on the crop are aphids and spider mites.

Hydrangea propagation

Indoor hydrangea bushes are rarely propagated, most often preferring to use garden plants as “material”. Meanwhile, only special indoor varieties retain compactness, branchiness and are much better adapted to being kept outside the open air. If possible, it is better to propagate indoor hydrangeas initially.

The only propagation method used for indoor hydrangeas is cuttings. To do this, use apical cuttings from young branches that actively grow in the spring. Green cuttings root better than semi-lignified ones.

You can start cutting hydrangeas from January-February; April is considered the deadline. For indoor hydrangeas, the standard is considered to be a cutting with a length of 8 to 10 cm. Rooting is carried out in a peat-sand substrate, with constant soil moisture and under a hood. Plants are planted in individual containers.

The division of bushes, as well as the separation of offspring on indoor bushes, is permissible, but only parts with at least 3-4 shoots can be separated. Plants do not tolerate contact with their roots well and then take a long time to adapt.

Garden bushes can also be propagated by layering to produce offspring that could be used in rooms.

Hydrangeas are very rarely grown from seeds. Sowing is carried out superficially, under the film, with thinning and diving at the stage of the third leaf into individual containers.

Reproduction

The easiest way to propagate indoor hydrangea is by cuttings or by dividing the bush. Growing hydrangea from seeds at home is a long, labor-intensive and ineffective process. This method is used mainly for breeding purposes.

Cuttings

For rooting, green cuttings 8-10 cm long with a pair of internodes are used. They are removed in March–April, no more than 1–2 from each bush, so as not to weaken the plant. You can also use stem shoots, but root shoots develop faster. Cut immediately below the leaf node with the heel (part of the bark and stem up to 3 cm long). The lower leaves are shortened by a third to reduce the area of ​​evaporation.

Root in spacious containers with drainage holes. A mixture of high-moor peat, sand and perlite in different proportions is used as a substrate - here each gardener has his own “ideal recipe”. Good results are achieved by using clean river sand. All components, as well as the containers themselves, must be disinfected before planting.

Cuttings are treated with growth stimulants containing cytokinins or heteroauxins. The latter are preferable because they have a disinfecting effect and, accordingly, allow pre-plant disinfection to be eliminated.

They are buried 1-3 cm into the moistened substrate and compacted. The containers are placed in greenhouses. Bottom heating is required. The optimal temperature for root germination is 18-20°C; Daily fluctuations within 2-3°C are acceptable. The soil is kept moist, and the cuttings are sprayed with a mist stream every few days. If all conditions are met, rooting occurs in 20-30 days. The top of the young plant is pinched after it has started to grow. Seated in individual containers. Propagation by cuttings is the fastest and most effective way to obtain flowering specimens of a certain variety.

Dividing the bush

Hydrangea can be propagated at home by dividing the bush. During the annual spring replanting, the bush is cut so that each division has 2-3 growth points and an independent root. Shoots and roots are shortened by 1/3, and the divisions are planted in separate pots in a mixture of leaf soil, peat and perlite. Greenhouse conditions, constant temperature and humidity are provided for a month. Peduncles are plucked out when they appear.

Seeds

Growing hydrangea from seeds requires patience. Seed material can be purchased in specialized stores. It is difficult to collect your own, given that most flowers are sterile.

Sow in early February in a mixture of high-moor peat and sand; They are not embedded in the ground. The containers are placed in greenhouse conditions and a constant level of humidity is maintained. It is difficult to grow hydrangea from seeds at home without bottom heating. Central heating radiators are not used for these purposes. Dive in the phase of 2 true leaves into separate pots into the same mixture. They care for them like adult plants, observing the cyclical development.

Temperature

When providing care for a hydrangea flower at home, maintain a comfortable temperature in the room. From spring to autumn, the ideal temperature for the crop will be +20 °C. Do not forget to regularly ventilate the room, because without fresh air, flower development slows down. In summer, take the pot out onto the balcony or terrace. But do not forget to protect the plant from drafts and sudden changes in temperature - such conditions are destructive for the capricious beauty.

After flowering, when the plant begins its dormant period, move the hydrangea to a dark place with a temperature of +7...+10 °C. A basement or cellar will do. Before doing this, remove all leaves and cut strong shoots to half their length. And remove small weak branches at the root. Place the pot on its side and store the crop in this position until February. Please note that you need to prepare the plant before the beginning of December. Otherwise, it will not have time to recover.

If you do not have such premises, then you can preserve the crop until spring on a glazed balcony, where the temperature does not drop below +4 °C. In order for the plant to quietly overwinter, cut the shoots by two-thirds of the length, cover the plant with spruce branches and wrap it with non-woven material.

When the buds hatch in February, return the flower to its usual place. Please note that without a cold winter, the crop will not restore the energy spent on buds. And then it will bloom again only in a year.

Trimming

Beginners usually believe that indoor hydrangeas do not need pruning of branches. This is a wrong opinion. Pruning is a mandatory procedure. With its help, the bush takes shape, and the plant correctly distributes the nutrients it receives from the soil.

Pruning is carried out 2 times a year:

  1. In autumn, when the plant fades. It is necessary to remove weak shoots at the root. Strong ones need to be shortened by half.
  2. In the spring. Strongly elongated weak shoots are removed.

It is allowed to trim the top of the plant. Thus, the growth of lateral shoots is provoked, and in the future the bush acquires greater splendor and decorativeness.

Is it possible to plant indoor hydrangea in open ground and how to do it correctly?

Any variety of indoor hydrangea can be transplanted into open ground. The procedure is carried out in a similar way - a hole is prepared, the plant is moved and the roots are sprinkled with soil.

To help the bush move away from the container better, place the pot on its side and carefully draw a ruler between the walls and roots. It is important not to stop abundant watering and feeding the plant.

There should be no doubt whether you can grow hydrangea at home in a pot. The plant requires careful and constant care, but the abundance of flowers and large inflorescences will delight any owner.

General transplant rules

The first transplant of a houseplant is forced; it is carried out immediately after purchase.

Hydrangea indoor transplant after purchase

The main rule during this period is a thorough examination of the root system for the presence of mealybugs, which often infect the crop. Additionally, the condition of the roots is analyzed: rotten areas are cut off, and the remaining healthy shoots are pre-treated with a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).

The remnants of the temporary soil mixture in which the hydrangea grew are removed by soaking in water for 0.5 hours.

A mandatory requirement for planting is the organization of a drainage layer. Expanded clay in the form of balls or a crushed mixture is suitable.

The transshipment method is recommended. Technology:

  • the soil is dried for 3-4 days;
  • the work surface is lined with plastic film or paper, the flower pot is placed in the center, the plant is tilted and removed, taking it by the base;
  • leave the remains of the earthen lump on the roots without shaking them off much;
  • drainage with a thickness of 3 cm or more is laid on the bottom; chopped sphagnum or neutral peat can be placed on it;
  • the soil is poured in a layer of about 1-2 cm, a flower is placed in the central part and sprinkled with soil mixture to the required level, the root collar is placed flush with the ground, buried no lower than the distance at which the hydrangea was previously in the substrate, otherwise there is a risk of stem rotting;
  • the soil is not compacted so as not to damage the nearby root system;
  • the plant is sprayed and placed in a permanent place of growth, and the next day it is fully watered;
  • the surface of the substrate can be sprinkled with a thin layer of peat mixture to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

With proper care, hydrangea in a pot grows quickly. And it can be propagated by dividing the bush. This method is quite simple, but requires care. Start the activity in the spring, during the annual replanting. Remove the flower from the pot and carefully divide the bush with a sharp knife so that each division has 2-3 growing points and a sufficient number of roots.

Before planting new shrubs, shorten the shoots and root shoots of crops by one third. Plant plants in individual pots filled with suitable soil and with good drainage. Be sure to moisten the substrate and mulch its surface with peat. Place the flowers in their usual place. If the event is carried out correctly, then by autumn the plants will take root and produce buds next year.

About the plant

Hydrangea can often be found in gardens and flower beds. It is a perennial shrub that produces large clusters of white flowers. It is also called “Fate” or “Bride”. The indoor form is almost the same, but the stems are smaller.

Hydrangea is a perennial subshrub covered with oval, serrated leaves. Ball-shaped inflorescences can reach 20 cm in diameter. Flowers can be corymbose, racemose or umbrella-shaped. The large inflorescences located at the edges of the flower are ethereal, and the fruiting ones are usually small in size and located in the center.

The peculiarity of hydrangea compared to other plants is that the color of its flowers is determined not by the variety or selection rules, but by the properties of the soil where the bush grows:

  1. In neutral soil the color will be white or cream.
  2. If the soil is acidic, the buds will turn blue.
  3. With alkaline soil, the inflorescences acquire a pink or lilac hue.

The sepals of the flowers are responsible for the shade and decorative properties: they have a bright color. Is it possible to grow large hydrangeas at home in a pot? If all care rules are followed, the plant can reach a length of up to one meter. The features of planting hydrangeas and caring for them are described below.

Cuttings

This propagation method is the simplest. Performed in January-February. Cuttings from basal shoots should be cut so that there are no more than 3 internodes on a branch 8 cm long. It is necessary to remove the leaves from the bottom of the cuttings. The top ones are shortened by half.

The lower cut must be treated with a root stimulator. The cuttings should be planted in a substrate of sand and peat, and then kept in the light at a humidity of 80% and a temperature of up to 20 degrees. It is advisable to cover the cuttings with glass jars, which must be removed every day for ventilation. The soil should be constantly moistened. After 3–4 weeks, the cuttings are planted in pots.

Top dressing

To ensure proper care of hydrangeas at home, feed the crop regularly. Fertilize the flower every two weeks from February, when the plant forms new shoots, until mid-August. For feeding, use preparations intended for azaleas or rhododendrons. In winter, during dormancy, eliminate fertilizers.

By the way, if you want to grow multi-colored hydrangea in a pot, then on the one hand, fertilize the soil with ammonia-potassium alum (8–10 g per 2 liters of water) - here the buds will acquire a blue tint, and on the other hand, add a little lime to the substrate so that the inflorescences become pink or lilac. In the middle of the pot, leave the soil neutral - you will get caps of white shades.

Features of watering hydrangeas in flowerpots

Hydrangeas are very demanding when it comes to watering. But not all summer residents have the opportunity to water them during the week. Everyone finds a way out on their own: puts all containers in the shade, asks neighbors to water, or uses modern methods and installs micro-drip irrigation. Thanks to this technology, the only restriction on the active use of container planting for hydrangeas is removed.

Decorating a balcony, terrace or patio using containers with hydrangeas is always quick and beautiful.

Growing problems

Hydrangea is a capricious crop and will react negatively to the slightest mistakes in care. Inexperienced gardeners face the following problems growing plants:

  • The leaves of the flower fall off. This is how the plant reacts to insufficient watering and dry indoor air. To correct the situation, increase irrigation and do not forget to regularly spray the foliage of the crop.
  • The flower dries up. Insufficient irrigation leads to this. And also a lack of nutrients in the soil. And the crop also dries out if you injured its roots during transplantation. To save a flower, change your attitude towards growing it and strictly adhere to the rules of care. Regularly moisten the soil and fertilize the hydrangea, and then it will recover.
  • The leaves are turning yellow. This phenomenon occurs due to insufficient watering or lack of nitrogen in the soil. Increase irrigation and feed the flower with appropriate preparations, and the foliage will recover.
  • The leaves turned pale, but dark veins remained on them. This is how the disease chlorosis manifests itself. This disease occurs due to a lack of iron in the soil, planting the plant in alkaline soil, or moistening it with ordinary tap water. For treatment, water the flower with a solution of iron sulfate (10 g of substance per 1 liter of water). And iron sulfate (2 g per liter) also helps to cope with the disease.

Follow the rules for growing the crop and provide proper care for hydrangeas in a pot at home. And the lushly blooming beauty will certainly reward you with bright and numerous caps of buds.

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