Keeping decorative rabbits at home for beginners

Choosing a breed of decorative rabbits for beginner rabbit breeders

Decorative rabbit

Decorative breeds of rabbits can be kept in an apartment. It is better to choose short-haired breeds in order to spend less time caring for your pet’s coat. Particularly popular is the “loop-eared ram” rabbit, which has long hanging ears. Decorative rabbits are loyal to their owners, do not damage furniture, live long, do not need to be walked every day, are pleasant to touch, and are quiet. The lifespan of a decorative rabbit is 12 years. You can castrate such a rabbit at an early age, and then keeping such a pet at home will not cause problems.

Below are the breeds of decorative rabbits:

Short-haired colored dwarfs with shiny fur and small ears;
Rex rabbits with plush fur;
“Lop-eared rams” with a calm character and drooping ears;
Angora dwarfs with fur up to twenty centimeters long (this coat will require good care).
For beginning rabbit breeders, it is better not to have Hermelins, because the females have a rather difficult character. Male hermelins (white decorative rabbit or ermine) have a magnificent fur coat, but due to the fact that the wool is very dense, it is difficult for them to tolerate the increased air temperature in the apartment, and by their nature, hermelins are distinguished by exceptional laziness.

How long do dwarf rabbits live at home?

With proper care, good nutrition, and sufficient physical activity, decorative rabbits live 8-9 years, and some long-livers up to 11-12.

Important! If pets are not intended to be bred, the rabbits are neutered. This adds several extra years to their life.

Cute furry pets can lift your spirits and add new colors to life. By caring for rabbits, children become more responsible, and adults forget about their problems. Good-natured, affectionate animals do not require large expenses or special care; they sincerely pay their owner with affection and love.

Content Basics

Basics of keeping a decorative rabbit

Keeping a decorative rabbit requires a serious approach, responsibility and considerable knowledge of care. The key rule is to first purchase a cage and the necessary equipment and only then purchase a rabbit. These pets do not tolerate overheating, direct sunlight, or stuffiness, but at a temperature of -20° C they will feel great. Excessive levels of ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide in the air, dampness, high humidity, and drafts are harmful to them. By the way, these animals do not sweat. The most comfortable temperature for them is: +18-20° C , humidity 50%. Heat exchange occurs through the veins in the ears. If your pet does not tolerate heat well, you can wipe its ears with a cloth soaked in cold water. If you cool your ears, your rabbit will feel better. You can cover the cage with a wet towel, or you can also put a plastic bottle with some ice cubes in the cage.

At home, the rabbit should be kept in a cage. These are fearful animals with a fragile spine; hold them tightly in your arms. A rabbit can even die if a person lets it go from a certain height. The animal does not need to communicate with the cat and dog, because they can start chasing the pet, and such races are harmful for him. You should not have a pet if there is a baby in the family. The curiosity of children pushes them to grab the animal by the ears, by the skin; as a result, the rabbit, having survived such shocks, can get sick.

Since decorative rabbits are delicate creatures, they can instantly catch a cold from a draft and die from stuffiness. Do not place your rabbit's cage in the sun . The animal can make noise, so in the morning you need to secure a grain feeder, tray, and hay manger in the cage in the morning. If the equipment is poorly attached, he will play with the feeder and everything else. There should always be dry bedding in the cage; it should be placed at the bottom of the cage. Straw or sawdust is suitable for bedding. At least 3 times a week you need to clean and change the litter. Stomach diseases are often caused by dirty and wet litter.

Rabbits are clean animals, so you should wash the litter box daily. Know that the pet will not go to the dirty litter box, but will equip a new toilet nearby. Some people don't like the smell of their pet, but if you take care of it, there will be no smell.

Who is considered decorative?

The word “decorative” means a rabbit of any breed, and even its size is not so important. The main thing is that he lives in a house or apartment. But still, dwarf breeds that were bred specifically for the purpose of making them pets are more often called decorative.

When choosing an animal, you need to find out its age - you shouldn’t take in a child who is not even one and a half months old, because he is not yet ready for independent life as a pet.

The ideal option is a rabbit of average fatness, not lethargic. His coat should be smooth, even and without any bald spots. In general, his appearance should be healthy.

A decorative rabbit, whose care and maintenance at home should be studied in detail, requires a certain attitude towards itself.

Contents in a cage

The cage should be spacious - four times the size of the animal. The cage should have enough space for a tray, drinking bowls, feeders, and a resting house. Take a plastic tray for the cage. A lattice tray will not work because the rabbit's feet will not be able to adjust to the tray. Avoid putting sawdust or straw in the bottom of the cage to prevent your rabbit from constantly peeing all over the cage. The cage must have a non-slip bottom. You can pour straw, paper, sawdust, and shavings from deciduous trees into the tray. A heavy ceramic bowl is suitable for grain feed. Attach the automatic drinking bowl and hay manger to the bars of the cage.

Practical advice

Some more tips from experienced rabbit breeders will not be superfluous:

You should always speak kindly to your pet, pet it, play with it, and pick it up more often.
During the day, rabbits prefer to sleep or hide from others, so it is better to actively tinker with them in the evening so that the pets get tired.
Decorative rabbits can make noise at night, so you should try to accustom them to sleep at night, and place the cage away from the bedrooms of household members.
A miniature pet needs toys, you can buy them at a pet store. These can be special balls, cardboard boxes with holes. Otherwise, the baby will find them himself, for example, he will peel off the wallpaper.
Natural instincts force a rabbit to chew something all the time, therefore, in addition to a special grindstone, you can also put pieces of wood and natural fabric in the cage.
You should not combine keeping a rabbit with other pets in the house. Loud noises that dogs or cats make will frighten them. And large animals can injure this baby.
You shouldn't be afraid of pet odors. With proper care and timely castration, they will not exist.
It is important to comply with the schedule and regime of mandatory vaccination. In case of outbreaks of infections, the list of vaccinations should be expanded.

Choosing a cage for a decorative rabbit

Cages for decorative rabbits

Decorative rabbits do not need a huge cage. The standard cage size for them is 1 m. The cage size for the largest individuals should be up to 140cm. Over time, the animal grows, and if you bought a small cage, the pet will feel cramped and get sick from sitting still. Keep in mind that an adult pet spends a lot of time in a cage, and not just spends the night. To maintain animal hygiene, you will definitely need a grid on the pallet. You will also need convenient drinking bowls, feeders, and a hay barn. You can install a house in a cage, but it makes sense to do this only in spacious cages where dwarf rabbits live. For a pregnant rabbit, you can temporarily install a house in a cage, in which she will arrange a place for the rabbits.

What to buy before a rabbit appears in the house

First of all, to care for your pet eared ear you will need:

The place where you will keep the decorative rabbit (cage or aviary)
Dishes (drinker, food bowl, hay box)
House in a cage
Litter tray
Care products

Let's take a closer look at each point.

Cage or aviary

An aviary is an excellent place to keep it, and it’s also easy to care for, but it takes up a lot of space in an apartment. This is a fenced-off space where your decorative pet will live. Make sure that the long-eared animal cannot jump over the fence and that there is additional covering on the floor (for example, you can lay an inexpensive laminate as a second layer), otherwise the animal, grinding off its claws, will make sure that there is no covering left.

Advantages of the enclosure: plenty of space for a decorative animal, easy to care for, good for watching your pet play (children will especially like it). Cons of an aviary: you need a lot of space indoors.

The cage is a compact option for keeping a decorative rabbit in the house. Easy to care for, fits on any table or chest of drawers. An excellent choice for beginners, this is what we recommend.

Pros of the cage: inexpensive, does not take up much space, easy to care for. Disadvantages of the cage: there is not enough space to keep a pet, you need to regularly let it out for walks.

The enclosure is spacious, but you have to sacrifice living space.

How to choose a cage

First of all, focus on size. The minimum area for comfortable keeping of one individual is 50x70 cm. The height is so that an adult ornamental animal can stand on its hind legs without resting on the ceiling. Please note that the size indicated is for decorative breeds. For a “full-size” pet rabbit, you will need much more space (depending on the size of the adult animal).

The most suitable material is steel rods and a plastic tray (it is imperative that it is detachable). A wooden cage is not suitable - a decorative rabbit will simply chew it off. The rods should be without paint - the pet will still chew them, and who knows what they are painted with. A removable tray is needed for ease of maintenance - replacing the filler, washing.

When purchasing, run your palm over the inner surfaces: there should be no burrs or sharp wire edges in the cage. Otherwise, the decorative rabbit may get injured, especially the ears.

This kind of “keeping” is cruelty to animals.

What should be in the cage

We recommend the following items for a decorative pet's cage:

Small house. Rabbits live in burrows and need a secluded place to hide from prying eyes.
Tray. It is very inconvenient to care for the cage when the animal relieves itself wherever it pleases; it is better to install a separate tray for the toilet - this will greatly facilitate care.
Bowl for food. It should either be heavy so that the decorative rabbit does not constantly turn it over, or attached to the bars of the cage.
Drinking bowl. Installed on rods.
Branches for grinding teeth (teeth grow constantly).
Mineral and salt stone. This is not for the teeth, as many people think, but to replenish the decorative rabbit with substances necessary for the body.

Where to install the cage

Basic requirements for the place of residence of a decorative rabbit:

The cage should not be on the floor
Avoid any drafts
The pet’s favorite temperature is 18-20 degrees (extreme heat is especially contraindicated, as rabbits do not sweat)

The cage should be placed in a quiet place - decorative eared animals do not like loud sounds. That is why it is rarely possible to catch them outside - they even sleep very lightly. Accordingly, the kitchen or living room is not suitable for a pet.

Don't disturb your sleep!

How to clean a cage

Caring for the cage does not require much time, but every day you will need:

Replace uneaten food with fresh food
Change the water in the drinking bowl
Add/replace hay
Change the litter in the tray (this can be done less often, but daily care is better to eliminate unpleasant odors).

At least once a week, a general cleaning of the “room” will be required - disinfection of all dishes and washing of the cage. Do not use products with strong chemicals - this can lead to problems with the gastrointestinal tract of the ornamental animal and even poisoning. Wash with safe options such as vinegar and citric acid.

How to care for a rabbit: care products

A decorative rabbit definitely needs claw care. They grow throughout life and, if not taken care of, furniture and laminate/linoleum will suffer. It is not necessary to buy a special kit for animals; simple manicure scissors and a nail file are enough for care. Have peroxide and cotton wool on hand in case you hit any capillaries.

Domestic rabbits take care of their fur on their own, but there are quite shaggy breeds that will not be harmed by brushing. Buy a special brush for this. Is it possible to use “human”? In general, yes. But you wouldn’t use your own comb to groom your pet. But if you buy it anyway, it’s better to buy a special one for pets.

Decorative rabbits do not regurgitate fur like cats. Therefore, domestic breeds with long hair need to be combed, especially during shedding.

Another item is a special shampoo for caring for your pet. True, decorative eared animals do not like bathing. This is only worth doing:

if the animal is very dirty
after illness, diarrhea
for treatment against parasites (fleas, ticks)

Just don't swim, just don't swim!

Selecting a location

Choosing a place for a rabbit

You should not place a cage with a rabbit near a radiator or near air conditioners. For these pets, any overheating is dangerous. At a temperature of +20°C, rabbits will be very comfortable. Animals are afraid of other pets, computers, TV, bright sunlight, and drafts.

It would be ideal to place the cage away from noise sources and away from the window. It is important that the place is bright and calm. The hallway, kitchen, corridor will not fit. When ventilating the room, avoid drafts. If you place the cage on the loggia, you will increase the likelihood of the animal overheating. Keep in mind that the loggia must have good ventilation and suitable temperature conditions.

For owners of private houses, you can make an enclosure with a canopy and fence it with a small fence. This way, the animal will not be afraid of either rain or overheating, and you can let the rabbit walk outside in the summer.

Cage equipment

A decorative rabbit at home usually lives in a cage. Therefore, it is its arrangement that should be given primary attention.

The cage must be spacious - a box of 10 cm by 10 cm is categorically unacceptable in such a situation. The rabbit should move freely in its home and jump easily.

The minimum parameters that are required are 50 and 70 cm. You need to focus on this parameter - the height of the walls should be such that the rabbit can easily fit in the cage while standing and is not pressed down by the ceiling from above.

Experts often argue that the ideal option is a space of 0.5 - 1 square meter for one animal.

The cell, of course, should not be empty. What does a decorative rabbit need in it?

The list of necessary things and tools includes:

Feeder: Ideally, pay attention to ceramics, because... Such material is heavy, and the animal will not be able to move or turn over the feeder. Alternatively, you can choose a metal option, which can always be securely attached to the walls of the cage.
Drinking bowl: today, drip options are preferable - it is much more convenient for the animal to drink from this, the water is dosed more correctly, in addition, such a drinking bowl can always be attached to the walls of the cage.
Inner house: an animal can always hide in such a small building if something suddenly frightens it. Alternatively, you don’t always need to buy such a house - you can easily make it yourself from ordinary cardboard.
Litter tray: the choice here is varied - there are both corner options and small cat ones.
Various toys: rabbits love balls with a rattle built inside, however, for a furry animal, a small box, for example, from adhesive tape, will also be interesting fun - the animals usually play with it by actively throwing it in the air.
Mineral stones and wood sticks - these items are intended for grinding down rabbits' incisors.

The bottom of the cage should be covered with straw or special sawdust.

An important point is the location of the cage. Experts advise placing it away from radiators and other heaters, removing it from the scorching sun and drafts - the animals catch colds quite easily.

The ideal solution would be to place the cage on a slight elevation in a bright place. It is important to remember that such dwarf animals react quite hard to changes in the surrounding atmosphere.

Therefore, if the house is stuffy and hot, you need to cover the cage with a damp cloth. If your pet is clearly overheating, you should wipe its ears with a damp handkerchief, and this procedure should be performed very carefully, because His ears are a sensitive area.

Cleaning a Rabbit Cage

The cage should be cleaned regularly. Clean the litter box a couple of times a week . The litter in the tray needs to be swept and replaced. The cage should be washed periodically using a disinfectant. Outdoor cages need to be washed weekly. Due to the fact that dirt is attractive to flies, the cages are washed more often in the summer. To make cleaning easier, place a potty in the cage and wash it regularly. Superficial cleaning should be done every day. While the rabbit is walking, clean the cage. It is important to remove excess wool and hay, wash the drinking bowl, and shake the hay.

Disinfectants are used for thorough cleaning, however, it is important to understand that pets are highly sensitive to chemicals.

Delegol is perfect for cleaning cells. Instructions are included with it. Before cleaning the cage with chemicals, move the pets to another cage or to another place.

A rabbit may develop a runny nose, sneezing, and watery eyes – all due to the fur not being collected in time. The owner of a rabbit can get allergies from dust and dirt. Flies also have no place in a cage. You need to take care of your pet.

Features of keeping a dacha

Rabbits can be taken out to the country in the summer.

Important ! For transportation, use a special bag with a hard bottom or a plastic basket with a lid. A layer of sawdust or straw is poured onto the bottom.

Caring for decorative rabbits in “field conditions” is no significantly different from ordinary home care. However, if you live outside the city for a long time, you should think about equipping a durable, reliable, spacious outdoor enclosure. The room is made of wood and iron mesh. For several animals, the enclosure is divided into several individual cells.

Smell

Decorative rabbit

The rabbit is a clean animal. There is almost no smell from the baby rabbit. The cage may smell like bedding and food. The owners will need to regularly clean and disinfect the cage, change the bedding in the sleeping house, as well as the litter in the toilet area. If the rabbit reaches sexual maturity, the stool is disturbed or the cleaning regime is not followed, then the smell of the rabbit becomes more noticeable. There is nothing you can do about the smell from a mature rabbit, and other causes are easy to eliminate. Having matured, individuals (both females and males) mark their territory and scatter feces throughout the cage and around the apartment.

Bathing your pets will not get rid of the smell, because secretion products, not skin secretions, are the source of the smell. A rabbit can independently clean its fur from odors or any dirt.

If you do not intend to breed your pets, then you can sterilize them . If you want offspring, clean the cages more often. A solution of potassium permanganate is suitable for cleaning. Laundry detergents, dishwashing detergents, and cleaning products are not suitable for cleaning cages - their use will have a bad effect on the rabbit’s health.

Smell and walks

The rabbit is a clean animal, so the baby rabbits do not emit a smell, but the food and bedding certainly do not spread odor, which is why regular disinfection is necessary. A mature rabbit may have problems with stool, then, of course, the smell will not be pleasant, also adult rabbits mark their territories with feces, nothing can be done about it, nature.

You should not constantly bathe the animals to get rid of the smell, since it does not come from the skin and from secretions, so the rabbit is able to clean the fur itself.

If the goal is to have one rabbit, and there is no desire to breed them, then you can use sterilization. Those who want offspring need to clean the cage more often, and you can use a potassium permanganate solution for this purpose, but dishwashing and laundry detergents are definitely not suitable, rabbits get sick from them.

See also: What to feed decorative breed rabbits

In order for the animals to be healthy, they must move more, and even in a large cage there is not enough space for movement, which causes the rabbits to become weak and sick, and their immunity decreases. To avoid such problems, walking for a maximum of half an hour every day is enough. Before a walk, you should remove all potentially dangerous objects from the room, and you should not have any cracks in the room; rabbits are extremely curious and can very easily get stuck there. Rabbits should be closely monitored during walks, not only for young rabbits, but also for adults.

Eared cats really like toys; if they don’t exist, he will find some household utensils himself. For walks, most often one room is enough. When the rabbit is walking, the cage should be open so that the rabbit can get home when it needs to. If a rabbit is walking outside, you need to make sure that it is clean; it cannot be allowed to walk on dirty grass, as this can lead to the appearance of ticks. Keeping it at home is much easier, since domestic rabbits

Walks

Walking bunny at home

Movement is important for a rabbit's health. Even a huge cage will limit the pet’s mobility, and this will lead to nervous disorders, joint diseases, and decreased immunity. To keep the animal healthy, let it walk around the apartment at least 20 minutes a day. Make sure that there are no cans of detergents, cords, electrical cables, or poisonous indoor plants in the apartment. Make sure there are no small cracks, as a curious animal could get stuck there. Constantly monitor your pet’s movements, especially if you don’t know its preferences and behavioral characteristics. And even old rabbits should not be left unattended for a long time.

The rabbit needs toys, otherwise he will find toys for himself from household items. As a result, various objects will be lying around the apartment, chewed into pieces.

You can increase the area for walking every day, but usually one room is enough for him. It is quite difficult to absolutely secure the entire apartment.

During a walk, the cage should be kept open - if the pet needs something, it should be easy to get home. The tray can be taken out of the cage. It is important to train your rabbit to go to the toilet in a litter tray.

On the street, the rabbit should be walked only in clean places, otherwise it may eat dirty grass. After your walk, inspect your rabbit for ticks.

How to tame a rabbit

You need to tame your pet rabbit right away: this will help avoid stress for your pet and make it easier to care for. The habituation process lasts from 7 days to 3-4 months, it depends on the pet’s character and age. Young animals make contact faster. Adults are more cautious and timid.

You need to keep a close eye on your pet while walking.

On the first day, the animal must be given time to get used to its new home. Don't distract him. You can talk quietly with the animal after it lies down to rest. Here it is recommended to accustom him to his own nickname - to call him by name. You need to talk in a quiet voice and move smoothly: the animals are very shy.

If there are no symptoms of fear, you can move on to familiarizing yourself with your hands. This will also take time. You can stick your hand into the cage and let it sniff, hand-feed it with various treats. When the animal stops being afraid of hands, you can start stroking it carefully.

After this, you should begin to get acquainted with the apartment. The cage should be left open and sit on the floor without moving. Natural curiosity will force him to get out of his usual place. It is worth giving the little rabbit the opportunity to study its owner and then feed it a tasty cracker or piece of vegetable. He must return to the cage himself. To do this, you can put something tasty in the cage.

During a walk, you need to carefully monitor your pet to prevent damage to furniture, wallpaper and other accessible items.

You can gradually teach your pet to climb into your arms on its own. To do this, when walking, keep your hand on the floor with your palm up. When the animal climbs onto the hand, it is slightly raised. Continue this way until he gets used to it. The hand should always be from below, then the pet will trust.

Rabbit food

The basis of the diet should be hay, clean water, feed, branches, and special mineral stones. Compound feed is granules with a complex of necessary substances. When choosing between special feed and mixed feed, give preference to the latter. In order for pets to grow well, they are given not only feed. A decorative rabbit may not immediately eat the granules, because it will first feast on tasty grains, and then all the remaining ones. It is important not to remove the pellets as they regulate digestion and are important for your rabbit's teeth. Rabbits are given 1 tablespoon of feed 3 times a day. Adult rabbits are given 1-1.5 tablespoons 2 times a day. There should be a lot of hay in the cage. Make sure there is always hay in the cage. Eating hay forms good stool and helps grind teeth. You can occasionally give a white cracker. Twigs of pear, birch, willow, apple, oak, poplar, and aspen are suitable for grinding down teeth. In summer you can give a few deciduous branches with leaves, in winter - coniferous branches. Wash and dry the branches well, and collect them in uncontaminated places. A chalk, salt or vitamin stone will provide your rabbit with minerals and vitamins. Chilled boiled water will be an ideal addition to your pet's diet. The water must be clean and present at all times. The water should be changed every 1-1.5 days. Rabbits are not fed parsley and dill due to the high content of essential oils. Chamomile, yarrow, and mouse peas are suitable for a decorative rabbit. It is not worth giving a lot of alfalfa. Herbs are introduced into the diet one leaf at a time. If you find an upset stomach, immediately remove herbs from your diet. Rabbits are fed herbs and fruits starting from 4 months. Herbs should be divided into small bunches, and fruits should be cut into miniature pieces.

Selection of popular breeds

There are many breeds of rabbits suitable for home keeping. For ease of grooming, it is better to give preference to varieties with short hair and small body size.

Most often, professionals advise choosing the following types.

Dutch

This breed was developed in the Netherlands. They are distinguished by their two-tone color. Eye color determines the coloring of certain areas of the head and back of the body. The front area and toes of the feet are usually white. The contrast boundary is clear.

The first official descriptions of this species appeared in the 19th century, but it is believed that the breed was developed much earlier - in the 15th century.

These cute and affectionate pets get along well with people and are not aggressive towards children. The size of the rabbit is small, maximum weight is about 2 kg. There are many colors - more than 20.

Dutch Fold

They differ from the previous breed in that the ears are not too long, hang down, but do not touch the floor. May be solid color. They are non-aggressive and get along well in an apartment. One of the smallest in size among ornamental breeds.

Dwarf Fold Rams

They are distinguished by hanging ears, an average length of the coat with an undercoat, and quite large sizes - up to 3 kg. The name of the breed is due to the steep, convex forehead of the individuals. These pets are calm, slow, not cowardly, easy to care for and do not show any aggression.

Also read the article about Ram rabbits.

Colored rabbits (dwarf shorthair)

A very small breed, the maximum weight of adults rarely reaches 1.5 kg. The ears are short, erect, and often have a different color from the main color. There are more than 60 shades of color in total.

The most popular variety is the white Oto, with a single black mark on a snowy background.

Curious and active pets are capable of showing some aggression only during the rutting period.

Pygmy foxes

The small breed (up to 1.2 kg) is covered with fairly long hair (from 3 to 7 mm), only it is shorter on the head. Three colors are common - chinchilla, brown and agouti, but other color variations are also found.

They need high-quality care; individuals can vary greatly in character; there are both calm and restless types of temperament.

Angora

Most varieties of this breed have fur so thick and long that the eyes and nose are not visible. Preference should be given to varieties with smooth, short and shiny hair (up to 5 mm). These are calm pets, well compatible with humans, but the peculiarity of the skin requires careful care.

Dwarf rex

There are a lot of representatives of decorative rabbits with wavy fur. The fur of these pets requires special care.

A lot has been written about Rex rabbits here.

Lion head

This variety is distinguished by the fact that the hair on the head is longer than on the rest of the body. There are many colors, weight and body size are small.

The character of these pets is calm and peaceful. They are able to play with children and do not show aggression towards them.

Hermelinas

These breeds are very popular in Europe, but are rare in Russia. The weight of individuals rarely reaches 1.2 kg. The color is only snow-white without yellowness. The ears are short and erect. Fur length no more than 2 mm. The short snub nose allows us to draw an analogy with the cat Persian.

They do not tolerate high temperatures well. They are unpretentious in care, but have a rather complex temperament.

More about Hermelina.

Japanese dwarfs

Small pets of various colors are distinguished by long, downy fur. They are very beautiful, but require special care.

Pygmy hare

One of the most common decorative breeds. Medium-sized pets are born completely white; with age, chaotically scattered spots of different colors appear on the body.

Angora lions

It is distinguished by the longest fur among decorative breeds, evenly covering the entire body, even the ears. The color is light red. If the hair grows significantly, it needs a haircut.

These are calm and leisurely pets, almost never showing signs of aggression (with the exception of the rut).

Dwarf butterflies

One of the most popular decorative types. Small rabbits rarely reach 1.5 kg. The shiny short coat has a peculiar pattern - ears, the area around the nose, a wide eye rim, a line in the middle of the back and a scattering of small spots on the sides, usually black or dark in color, and the main background is light or white. The color is symmetrical, and markings on the belly, legs or chest are considered defects. They get along well with people.

Squirrels

The young breed is similar in appearance to these animals and most often the same color. Calm pets are usually medium in size. There are few in Russia.

When choosing a rabbit for home keeping, it is better to consult with specialists, as some breeds are quite aggressive, especially towards children.

Photo gallery of decorative rabbits:

Also read about different breeds of rabbits.

Diseases and mandatory vaccinations for rabbits

Vaccinations for rabbits

Decorative rabbits suffer from infectious stomatitis, staphyllococcosis, myxomatosis, infectious rhinitis, pasteurellosis, and coccidiosis. Animals also suffer from intestinal disorders (constipation is not uncommon in rabbits), eye diseases, their ears may hurt, and problems are caused by excessive tooth growth. Worm infestations can lead to the death of a pet. Three to four times a year, the animal should be dewormed, even if it does not go out into nature or go anywhere . Vaccination helps protect your pet from any infectious diseases. Read more in the article vaccination of rabbits.

It would be a good idea to vaccinate your pets against paratyphoid, rabies, listeriosis, and pasteurellosis. Vaccines against VHD (viral hemorrhagic disease) and against myxomatosis are required. There are vaccines that help protect against several diseases at once.

Once a year you need to get a comprehensive vaccination against miscomatosis and VGBV. It can be done using one ampoule. When there are outbreaks of other diseases in the region, then vaccinate your decorative rabbit.

At six weeks, rabbits receive their first vaccination against VGBV. If there is a threat of an epidemic, then four-week-old pets can be vaccinated. Three months later, the next vaccination against VGBV is given. Vaccination should be repeated every six months.

Vaccination against myxomatosis should be carried out from April to October, since this disease is transmitted by fleas, mosquitoes, and other blood-sucking insects in the warm season. There is no need to vaccinate your pet against myxomatosis in winter. At least two weeks should pass between vaccinations with separate vaccines against myxomatosis and VGBV. It is not advisable to vaccinate lactating females and pregnant rabbits. If your pet is infected, then there is no point in getting vaccinated, because it will not have any effect on the disease. Only healthy animals can be vaccinated. After vaccination, you need to keep the decorative rabbit in quarantine for two weeks - during this time the vaccine will begin to act, and the animal will not become infected. It is advisable to deworm your pet ten days before vaccination. You can vaccinate yourself or go to a veterinary hospital. But, if you vaccinate a rabbit, be sure to follow the vaccination schedule.

Methods for keeping rabbits

Benefits of keeping rabbits in cages

This method of keeping rabbits has many advantages. Let's look at some of them:

Portability. The cages can be moved anywhere in the house without much effort;
Strength. Rabbits love to sharpen their teeth on something hard, but in the case of a metal cage they will have little success;
Easy to catch. The rabbit is quite comfortable and can be easily taken out of the cage;
Durability of the structure. The cage will serve you faithfully for many years;
Good ventilation. Indoor spaces can spread a huge number of infectious diseases. In the case of a cage, such problems will not arise.

Advantages of keeping rabbits in kennels

The advantages of keeping rabbits in enclosures include:

Change in animal behavior. Their anger and apathy disappear.
Huge free space for the rabbit to play and have fun.
Due to excessive activity, animals' appetite improves.
Rabbits living in enclosures do not need to be vaccinated, unlike animals that live in cages.
Rabbits feel much safer in enclosures than in cages.

Floor keeping of rabbits

The ability to move a lot has a beneficial effect on the character and health of animals. On the street, rabbits become calmer and aggression disappears. The offspring grow strong and even, since females feed not only their own, but also other people's rabbits.

On the street

Those who decide to keep rabbits in enclosures should carefully prepare for winter. Despite the fact that animals have thick and warm fur, they also need comfortable living conditions. Fluffies are able to withstand short-term temperature drops down to -17° Celsius.

When choosing this option for keeping rabbits in winter, you should take into account that a young rabbit has increased sensitivity to cold. Babies are born bald and defenseless. To prevent them from dying, you should arrange the queen cell, taking care of heating.

Sheds

Among the obvious advantages of shad it should be noted:

Simplicity and ergonomic design. Even a beginner can take on the task of creating shad. Having the drawings and available tools, he can easily cope with this building, adjusting its parameters to his site;
Constant access to fresh air. The main advantage of sheds is that they allow you to keep rabbits outside, while at the same time giving the animals reliable protection from drafts, direct sunlight, showers and other vagaries of the weather.

You should pay close attention to the arrangement of your rabbits' home.

Sexual issue in rabbits

Decorative rabbit

Key signs of puberty:

The pet has become aggressive and overly active;
Goes to the toilet not in the tray, but wherever he wants;
Females and males begin to actively dig the floor, the bottom of the cage, the carpet;
Mark the territory;
Manifestation of false pregnancy: the rabbit can pull out fluff from herself, carry hay to a certain place;
A pet can molest domestic animals and humans.
There is no medication yet to reduce sexual activity in rabbits. Exit: castration or sterilization.
Castration can be performed on a ten-week-old rabbit, but veterinarians recommend castration on a five-month-old animal. Castration is a simple operation. Sterilization can only be carried out on a six-month-old rabbit. This operation involves removing the uterus and both ovaries.
It is better to perform the operation on a young rabbit, since he has few health problems. The operating procedure will be dangerous for the old rabbit. Due to the fact that rabbits have difficulty withstanding anesthesia, these operations were previously considered incredibly dangerous. But now there is a new generation of anesthetics for this purpose.

How to choose a rabbit

When choosing small rabbits you need to pay attention to the following points:

breed
floor
health
character
age

Breeds of decorative rabbits

There are already about a hundred breeds of decorative rabbits, and the selection of new species continues continuously. Perhaps by the time you read this article, a dozen new domestic varieties will have appeared. Therefore, we will focus only on the most popular pets for home keeping. You can find detailed information about the breeds in the relevant articles on our website, but in the meantime, admire the photos of the most popular breeds of decorative eared ears.

Hermelin

One of the most recognizable decorative rabbits, which is distinguished by its characteristic snow-white fur.

I think pink doesn't suit me...

Lop-eared ram

A decorative fold-eared animal with a soft character and an appearance that cannot be confused with anything else.

The smartest decorative breed is the lop-eared ram.

Rex

These decorative rabbits are often called "plush" rabbits because of their short, shiny and soft fur.

Just kidding :) Below is the real one)

Rex has almost “toy” fur.

Angora breeds

Angora Decorative is a common name for domestic breeds with long hair. They are handsome, but this “hairstyle” requires additional care.

Don't blink, take pictures already!

Lionhead

The name comes from the wild “mane” on the head.

Sorry, I'm a little disheveled...

Dutch dwarf

A “classic” decorative rabbit for those who do not strive for the exotic: almost ordinary appearance, not counting its dwarf size.

Don't look like that, you're scaring me.

Fox dwarf

Babies with very beautiful colors. But there is one problem: they often have an obnoxious (and sometimes aggressive) character, which makes them very difficult to care for and maintain.

The color of dwarf foxes can range from yellow to fiery red.

Hotot

You will recognize this animal everywhere. Thanks to the black circles around the eyes, Hotot's eyes seem simply huge!

The Hotot is one of the cutest domestic breeds.

In addition to decorative ones, rabbits are often kept at home, which were originally bred for meat and skins. This is usually done due to the non-standard color of the animals. For example, the butterfly and moth breeds.

Who to choose: boy or girl

Advantages of a pet boy:

Doesn't give birth
Less likely to damage household property

Minuses:

After puberty, marks territory, which can lead to an unpleasant odor

Advantages of keeping a girl at home:

Males mark territory much less often (but it does happen)

Minuses:

Pregnancy (if you are planning one) will require costs and better care for the rabbit and her babies.
Females are more prone to damage to furniture, wall and floor coverings

The problem of bad odor from the marked territory can be solved by castration (or sterilization in the case of females). But keep in mind that this does not provide a 100% guarantee that the decorative rabbit will stop marking. Weigh all the pros and cons; perhaps “increased” care and cleaning will solve all the problems.

During puberty, both boys and girls become irritable and sometimes aggressive. There is no need to “educate” your pet, just endure this period.

If you are going to take a couple of rabbits, think in advance where you will place the offspring and what you are going to do with them in the future. It is not for nothing that the fertility of the hare family has become legendary.

If you decide to take a pair, be prepared for frequent and large offspring.

Buying a pet

The main advice when choosing is to buy pets from a pet store with good reviews. It’s cheaper at poultry markets, but if you are not an experienced breeder of decorative rabbits, then they can slip you anything: the wrong breed, old and sick individuals. It is also very difficult to distinguish the sex before a month.

But wherever you decide to buy (or get a free) pet rabbit, pay attention to the following things:

The coat must be clean and smooth; bald spots and scratching of the skin are unacceptable.
The eyes should not be watery or festering
It is advisable for the baby to be active - there is less chance of adopting a sick pet
If a decorative rabbit is not afraid of people, this is a plus, it means he has a friendly character
Signs of great age (more than six months) - long, inwardly curved claws and yellow teeth

Take me! I'm kind and a quick learner.

Acceptable and unacceptable food

The diet of an ornamental pet includes:

meadow hay;
fresh grass (in summer they are picked from an ecologically clean area, in winter they buy wheat grain for germination);
vegetables and tops (carrots, zucchini, pumpkin);
tree and shrub branches (apple, pear, raspberry, aspen);
fruits and berries (apples, pears, watermelon and melon rinds, grapes).

The water is changed daily, even if all of it is not drunk. The rabbit is given food 3 times a day.

Mating domestic rabbits

Rabbits reach sexual maturity at approximately 3.5–4 months. But from the age of 2 months, boys and girls are kept separately. And the first mating is planned for 7–12 months. At an earlier age, there is a risk that the female will not be able to give birth. In the future, the female rabbit will be able to bear healthy offspring for three years.

If your animals live separately, then during the hunting period, which usually lasts 6–12 days, the female must be allowed to visit the male in the mornings and evenings. And after mating, seat them again. If the animals live together, then after pregnancy the female should be placed in a special dark, warm and spacious queen cell, where no one will disturb her.

Rabbits bear offspring for 29–31 days. During pregnancy, additional food enriched with proteins is introduced into their menu, and a large amount of water is also provided.

Did you know? Female rabbits are capable of bearing two litters from different males at the same time. The fact is that her uterus does not have a body, but consists of two necks and two horns, each of which has an entrance to the vagina.

The litter consists of 6–12 babies. Baby rabbits are born without fur and with their eyes closed. Eye opening occurs on the 10th day. For the first 3–4 weeks, babies eat mother's milk. In the future, they need to be gradually accustomed to adult food.

So, now you know what is needed to keep a decorative rabbit in the house and how to care for it. However, before you go to the pet store to purchase one, you should consider whether you can provide him with everything he needs. After all, keeping a pet in the house is not only joy and pleasure, but also a great responsibility.

How to care for and keep a decorative rabbit in an apartment

A balanced diet is very important for a rabbit's health . The animals are fed grass and hay, cereals, fresh vegetables and complete specialized food.

Rabbits eat up to 30 times a day , food should always be available. In this case, you need to immediately remove any uneaten leftover food from the cage, which may spoil, so that your pet does not get poisoned.
Succulent foods (vegetables, fruits, grass) are not suitable for rabbits under 3 months of age . The kids are given hay and feed.
Rabbits enjoy eating meadow grass . When you decide to pamper your pet, you need to check that the collected grass does not contain poisonous plants. Grass for the animals is torn away from roads.
Cereals and legumes are pre-soaked or boiled .
To grind their teeth, the animals are offered solid food : young branches of aspen, apple, willow, and birch. Dried pieces of bread will be a healthy treat.
Mineral supplements (bone meal, chalk) are given to all animals, with the exception of those receiving complete food.

Rabbits should not be given dairy products, citrus fruits, meat, spicy, salty, sweet foods, or red cabbage. Any other cabbage and beets cause stomach upset. Legumes are given rarely, in small portions, in combination with other food.

Rabbits that regularly run around the apartment and receive sufficient physical activity do not need to be walked. But walks in the fresh air will bring joy to both the owner and the pet . After first making sure that there are no dogs, garbage, or poisonous plants nearby, the animal is released for a walk in a park or in a secluded clearing. Even the calmest rabbit should be on a harness or leash : if frightened by something, the animal can run away, and catching it on the street will not be easy.
Once every 3 weeks, the rabbit's claws are trimmed . Using forceps or a nail clipper, cut off the tip of the claw, 1-2 mm long, so as not to touch the blood vessels (they are clearly visible in the light). If the animal begins to bleed, the claw is washed with hydrogen peroxide.
Should you wash your rabbit? Veterinarians say that bathing is extremely stressful for animals and is contraindicated for a number of reasons.
Water treatments disrupt the skin's natural protective lubrication . As a result, the fur becomes dull, falls out, and the animal feels itchy.
Bathing often causes colds .
The stress that an animal experiences can be fatal.
Rabbits keep their fur clean by licking themselves thoroughly. With proper care, washing will not be necessary .

But there may be situations when swimming cannot be avoided. For example, if your long-eared pet is very dirty, overheated or suffers from diarrhea. How can you avoid harming your pet?

Washing a rabbit in a sink or basin is more convenient and easier than in a bath.
Prepare water at room temperature or a few degrees warmer.
If possible, it is better not to wet the entire animal , but to wash only the contaminated areas.
It is better not to use detergents . If you cannot do without them, purchase a special shampoo for rabbits. You need to rinse the fur very carefully so that later the animal, while licking itself, does not get poisoned.
to water the animal with water not from the shower, but from a ladle or mug.

Bathing a dwarf rabbit

The head, especially the ears and nose, should not be wet .
You will need a helper to hold the rabbit. A frightened animal may escape and injure itself .
It is important to avoid drafts . All windows and doors must be tightly closed.
Dry the wool thoroughly with a towel . Until the animal is completely dry, it is not advisable to let it go on the floor; it is better to leave it on the sofa or pick it up.
Do not use a hairdryer to dry wool : the noise scares the animals, and it is easy to burn delicate skin.

Proper care of pets at home

Rabbits are difficult animals to raise and care for. They are very gentle, demanding conditions of detention. This applies to both decorative and meat breeds. They do not feel well in the heat or cold. They are very afraid of drafts, as they catch colds easily, and more often suffer from pneumonia and acute respiratory infections. They have a negative attitude towards dirty feeders and may simply refuse to eat for a long time.

Poor quality food also confuses them. Rabbits have one peculiarity: their stomachs and intestines are very weak. The nutrition of these pets must be monitored especially scrupulously. Pets cannot tolerate dirt in cages and enclosures. Cells that have not been cleaned for a long time are a source of disease, and rabbits’ immunity is not very strong. It is better to keep them comfortable than to treat them for various diseases.

List of necessary activities to be carried out at the place where rabbits are kept:

Feeding. Feed must be selected based on weight. You need to choose a varied diet. Individuals should not be left without hay. Animals must have constant access to clean water. Without drinking, normal functioning of the gastrointestinal tract is impossible in rabbits.
Daily cell cleaning. It is necessary to clean thoroughly, removing absolutely all dirt, feces, and food debris from the floor and walls.
Treatment, vaccination. It is better to support weak immunity with timely vaccinations. A sick rabbit must be isolated and treated separately to avoid an epidemic. Rabbits suffer from diseases that are quite human, but they are difficult to treat.
Clean nails, fur, mouth.

Separately, you need to monitor pregnant rabbits and pay more attention to them. Females who have given birth, as well as those in pregnancy, should be given more vitamins. Lack of water in the drinking bowl after childbirth can lead to the death of the female who has given birth.

During lactation, female rabbits drink 100-200% more water than before. It is necessary to protect newborn rabbits and their mother from the rest of the herd for a month and a half.

Rules for caring for rabbits

Babies feed exclusively on mother's milk, so they must be in the same room with her. Other female rabbits can kill and injure the babies. When the rabbits reach the age of 2 months, they are transferred to a common enclosure or cage. They slowly feed them dishes from the general menu, tearing them away from maternal care. It is better for the mother rabbit to live separately from the rabbits for some time so that they can easily wean off her milk.

Rules for choosing an animal

There are a large number of decorative breeds of rabbits, so choosing the right pet can be difficult. Advice for novice breeders: when choosing a breed, first of all pay attention to the character of the animal and the cost of maintaining it. A rabbit is selected according to the following criteria:

degree of affection and friendliness;
reaction to strangers;
activity;
size of the individual;
state of the immune system, degree of susceptibility to diseases;
requirement for care.

You should not choose a dwarf rabbit if there are small children in the family. When playing with a miniature animal, children can accidentally injure it.

You can ask the seller about the characteristics of the decorative breed. The buyer should keep an eye on the cubs being sold. Appearance and habits can tell a lot about the health of an animal. A healthy rabbit looks energetic, moves quickly, its coat is shiny, there are no bald spots or traces of fleas. You should run your palm over the body to check for injuries and tumors. The abdomen should not be hard.