Thuja in a pot: planting and care at home.

Types of indoor thuja

The thuja genus is divided into six main species, each of which has produced many new varieties. In indoor floriculture, two types are used: thuja occidentalis and thuja orientalis.

There are a number of differences between them that determine whether they belong to a species. It was previously believed that the western thuja has a pyramidal shape, while the eastern thuja is closer to the shape of a shrub. Nowadays, plants of different shapes have been bred in each species:

• pyramidal;
• spherical;
• dwarf and others.

Thuja globulus

Also, the color of the leaves of modern thuja can be dark green, yellowish and even bluish. Therefore, it is necessary to be able to distinguish between eastern and western thuja by the structure of branches, leaves and the shape of cones. Modern botany classifies thuja orientales, which is also called biota, to a separate genus - oriental planum.

Below is a table highlighting the similarities and differences between the Western and Eastern Arborvitae, as we will continue to call them.

Thuja eastern and western can be grown both in gardens, parks, and indoors, on balconies and loggias. They grow slowly and are easy to trim and form a crown. They are used for growing bonsai.

The following varieties have proven themselves well for growing indoors:

• Western Golden Globe;
• Western Teddy;
• Western Miki;
• East Aurea Nana;
• Dwarf.

Reasons for hiding

As a rule, young, immature trees need “winter clothes”. Their branches are still quite weak, and their shoots are thin. They may break under the weight of snow. In addition, the root system of the annual thuja, propagated by cuttings, is on the surface - a harsh snowless winter will destroy it. Also, snow accumulation leads to curvature of the crown and dampening of the needles. Another negative factor in wintering thuja is burns. If the crown is bare, then the sun's rays begin to stimulate the growth of shoots, while the roots of the plant are in “hibernation.” As a result:

• thuja color changes;
• needles fall;
• shoots lose their usual shape.

Timing

Thuja cuttings are a year-round activity. Healthy branches, if properly cared for, take root well regardless of the season.

1. Spring The time of year when most gardeners recommend taking thuja cuttings. At this time, the trees begin to grow. Sap flow is active, which means the twig will sooner take root. In April the weather is comfortable for young plants. Summer is ahead; thujas have enough time to get stronger and survive the winter without loss. The disadvantage of spring cuttings is that the wounds left on the donor tree after the branches are torn off ooze juice for a long time. In order not to weaken the plant, it is necessary to cover the wounds with varnish.
2. Summer In summer, branches are cut for rooting in June. They must be fully ripe. Before the onset of cold weather, the seedlings will have time to accumulate enough vitality for wintering. In the summer, young plants will have to be sprayed frequently, maintaining air humidity at 75%.
3. Autumn In autumn, thuja cuttings are harvested in October. They will have to be rooted at home, and thujas will have to be planted in the ground only next year.
4. Winter In winter, the plant is dormant and the loss of branches does not affect the condition of the adult tree. The branches are harvested from December to February. The cuttings will be rooted at home and kept on a windowsill or in a greenhouse until the weather warms up.

Autumn-winter propagation of thuja is attractive because it allows you to work with the plant without being distracted by other gardening work. To root a large number of cuttings you will need a heated and well-lit room.

Healthy branches, if properly cared for, take root well regardless of the season.

How to care for thuja occidentalis

It is especially important to care for the thuja hedge in the first years after planting. Trees need minimal care - weeding, watering and loosening

In the first two months, abundant watering is needed (at least 10 liters of water per tree weekly). You need to water the thuja in the evening or in the morning so that the roots have time to become saturated with moisture before the onset of daylight. For 2-3 years after planting, you don’t have to worry about fertilizers - the tree received them in reserve at the time of planting. Starting from the third year, thujas must be fed with special fertilizers recommended specifically for these plants. In early spring, conifers are fed with Kumir-universal at the rate of 120 g per 1 sq.m. For incorporation into the soil, urea, calcium and ammonium nitrate are used at the rate of 20-30 g per 1 sq.m of tree trunk circle.

Thujas look very impressive in a Japanese garden.

In the first years of thuja growth, the trees should be protected from the bright sun by covering them with an awning or sprinkling. We should not forget that a young and fragile plant may not be able to cope with severe frosts, so during the first winter after transplantation it should be covered with an awning or sprinkled.

An important component of caring for and growing thuja is pruning. It can be formative and sanitary

To carry out sanitary pruning in April, dry, yellow and diseased branches are removed from the plant, and the heavily thickened crown is thinned out to ensure air circulation and prevent the development of diseases.

To carry out decorative pruning, you should remember several prerequisites:

• trimming the top of the thuja adjusts the height of its growth;
• to form spherical bushes, first of all, you need to remove branches that stand out from the general shape of the crown;
• To maintain the desired shape, constantly remove annual growth.

Types of the most common mistakes

Inexperienced gardeners who have never encountered growing crops immediately make many mistakes. As a result, the tree cannot tolerate them and over time either dries out or rots. Here are options for the most common mistakes from agricultural practice:

• for the winter, the crowns of young trees are left uncovered;
• use fertilizers that are intended for deciduous trees (nitrogen complexes);
• do not cover the needles with sun screens;
• the shelter is removed too early.

An important step in the development of a tree is the formation of the crown. If it is not planted correctly, the plant immediately loses its appearance. Therefore, after the shelter is removed, the thuja needs to be trimmed. For pruning, take pruning shears, they are convenient to work with. First of all, remove dry and diseased branches with yellow needles from the top and middle part of the tree, they are already dead. If the crown is excessively thick, thin it out a little. This will increase the breathability of the tree and also reduce the risk of pest attack on the crop. In order for your thuja to grow better not up, but in width, cut off part of the top; trimming the top helps stimulate the side shoots, they become more active. There are 3 types of thuja pruning:

• spiral The most common form for pruning thuja. in general, the tree resembles a large cone, its top will be narrowed;
• spherical. This option is suitable for forming low crowns. The plant looks great on a summer cottage, in a winter garden;
• topiary The crown is formed in the form of any geometric figure: rhombus, square, ball. Garden stores sell metal frame molds for laying the crown, according to which they subsequently perform pruning.

Thuja will be the main decoration of your local area if you care for it correctly: protect it from the cold outside, trim the crown, and water it regularly. A healthy and beautiful tree pleases the eye and attracts the attention of everyone around. Thuja can live for decades, no matter what region you plant it in, so if you love evergreens, then the choice for planting is obvious.

Each plant is a living organism that requires an individual approach to the selection of activities aimed at caring for it. Some plants need to be given a minimum amount of time, they are unpretentious and will not require much expenditure from you.

How to plant thuja with seeds

Growing thuja from seeds is advisable if you plan to install long borders or hedges at your dacha. For such a design you will need a lot of planting material. To independently obtain thuja seedlings from seeds, it will take from 3 to 5 years. However, it should be taken into account that new trees may not reproduce the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Thuja seeds ripen in cones. They are collected at the very beginning of autumn until they open, after which they are kept warm for a couple of days so that the seeds fall out naturally.

The best option is to sow before winter. The seedlings will grow stronger, and there will be little hassle with them. In autumn, thuja seeds can be sown directly into the garden bed or into a buried box. The second method is more convenient, since in the spring the container with seedlings can be easily moved to the greenhouse.

To sow thuja you will need the following soil composition:

• turf or garden soil - 1 part;
• peat – 2 parts;
• sand – 0.5 parts.

The mixture is poured into the box, leaving 2-3 cm from the edge. Grooves about 1 cm deep are cut at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other. Thuja seeds are evenly distributed along the entire length of the grooves, filled in, then the soil is pressed down with a plank. You can mulch the crops with 2-3 cm of peat chips and cover them with non-woven material (from animals). The box must be installed on the site in a place where direct sunlight does not reach.

In the spring, about 3 weeks after the soil warms up, the thuja seeds will sprout. The shoots will look like thin branches of juniper or spruce, but later (after 2-3 months) real scaly “legs” will appear.

Sowing at home

You can sow thuja in the fall and at home. With this option, the seeds undergo stratification on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator in a container with wet sand or sawdust. After 2 months (in February), they are removed and sown in a box filled with drainage (2 cm from the bottom) and soil for conifers. Sowing is done according to the 1*1cm pattern in a checkerboard pattern. When planting at home, thuja seeds are not covered with soil, but lightly pressed into it, moistened with a spray bottle and covered with film.

When the roots begin to appear, they are slowly sprinkled with nutritious soil and sprayed with water. After a month, the cover is removed. Seedlings must be regularly sprayed with water. It is recommended to plant home-grown thujas in the ground only in the third year. In the summer they can be placed outside, and with the onset of cold weather they can be taken indoors.

Selection of materials

It is not difficult to purchase thuja bags for the winter. The modern market offers a huge selection of covering materials. First of all, you should pay attention to:

• burlap;
• gauze;
• tulle;
• cotton;
• polypropylene bags;
• roofing felt;
• polymer mesh;
• kraft paper.

Experienced gardeners do not recommend covering evergreen shrubs with cellophane or polyethylene. These materials create a “greenhouse effect”, which leads to the death of plants. Note that it is important to use non-woven materials that allow air to pass through and protect from direct sunlight. It is advisable to purchase white bags.

In addition to protecting the crown, it is necessary to take care of the wintering of the thuja roots. There are several preparation options.

• The soil is mixed with foliage. Such a “blanket” perfectly retains moisture at the root system, and humus will be an excellent fertilizer for the plant.
• Mulching with peat, sawdust or conifer bark. Layer thickness – at least 10 cm.
• In addition, spruce branches are placed on a layer of organic matter, which is removed when the weather warms up. This point is especially important for young trees, since their root system has not yet become stronger. The spruce branches can protect the plant from “severe” frosts. Also, before insulation, thuja must be watered abundantly.

Thuja in a pot outside care. Plant care

To grow thuja at home, the soil must be well loosened. This is necessary so that it allows air and moisture to pass well to the roots of the plant.

Land for growing can be purchased at a specialty store. It is recommended to use a composition that is intended for coniferous plants.

You can prepare the soil for thuja yourself. To do this, it is recommended to use 4 parts of coniferous soil, 8 parts of deciduous soil and 1 part of sand. They must be mixed thoroughly before use.

To care for and grow thuja in an apartment, it is important to choose a pot of the appropriate size. If it is small in size, a pot with a volume of 20 to 30 liters is usually used

If we are talking about a larger specimen, then we must proceed from the fact that the volume of the lump of roots and soil should be a third of the pot.

Before planting thuja at home, lay a drainage layer on the bottom of the flower pot. Its task is to ensure that moisture does not stagnate in the lower part of the pot. This will protect the roots from possible rotting. One way to form a drainage layer is to use pieces of foam or cut corks

It is permissible to use gravel for this purpose, but it must be taken into account that as a result the weight of the pot will increase

The plant pot needs to be watered frequently. Place it in a bright place, but not in direct sunlight. If there is not enough light, the crown may grow sparse.

Soil for growing thuja

Over time, to care for thuja domestica, you will need soil with a different composition. To prepare it you need 3 parts of peat, to which add 1 part of leaf soil and 1 part of sand.

The soil level in the pot should be at the level of the leaf collar. If it is higher, it can lead to rotting of the plant.

On a note. Thuja in a pot can also be left outside for some time, if weather conditions permit.

In summer, it is important to water the thuja regularly - to take care of it. It is important to ensure that the plant is not exposed to direct sunlight.

Thuja does not tolerate drafts well.

In winter, when caring, maintaining the required temperature conditions comes to the fore. It is recommended to maintain a temperature of 5 to 15 degrees during winter. Such conditions can be achieved, for example, by placing the plant on a balcony. Keeping it in warm, low humidity conditions can cause the plant to dry out.

Important! It is not recommended to place the pot next to radiators or heating devices, otherwise the soil will become dry. You need to water less often in winter than in summer.

In this case, one must be guided by the fact that the potting soil cannot dry out. It must be remembered that excess moisture can cause harm: cause rotting of the roots.

You need to water less often in winter than in summer. In this case, one must be guided by the fact that the potting soil cannot dry out. It must be remembered that excess moisture can cause harm: it can cause rotting of the roots.

Feeding is carried out throughout the autumn-summer period. This must be done monthly for the benefit of the plant. The fertilizer must be diluted well because otherwise the thuja will begin to grow quickly, and for home growing this is usually undesirable.

Description

The graceful evergreen “beauty” is called the “tree of life.” It has positive energy and a pleasant aroma. Thuja belongs to the cypress family. It is not known for certain where exactly the amazing tree appeared. According to one version, its homeland is America. Today there are 5 main types of evergreen plants (western, Chinese, eastern, Japanese and folded). They vary in shape, height and other external features. Trees of amazing beauty are “long-livers”. The plant grows and develops over 100–150 years. Negative factors that lead to the death of a plant include:

• low temperatures;
• lack or excess of moisture;
• lack of feeding;
• pests.

Thujas do not require careful care, but in winter some varieties may freeze out. A tree that has not overwintered well will lose its presentable appearance and amazing aroma. Preparation of thuja for cold weather begins in the fall.

Varieties

There is a wide variety of thujas, differing in the shape and structure of the crown, the shade of the needles, and the size. Thuja occidentalis is suitable for planting in almost all regions of Russia (including Siberia). This species is frost-resistant, undemanding to the soil, and requires a minimum of care.

Western thuja is represented by numerous varieties. We list the most popular of them.

• Holmstrup. It is distinguished by its original narrow pyramidal dense crown. The needles remain dark green at any time of the year. Thuja grows up to 2 m, retains its shape even without haircuts.
• Emerald. The crown is pyramidal in shape, the plant reaches 2 m in height.
• Danica. Dwarf spherical thuja.
• Braband. Cone-shaped crown, in optimal conditions it grows up to 21 m; in central Russia the height does not exceed 4 m.
• Golden Globe. A slow-growing spherical thuja, reaching a diameter of about 1 m by the age of 20. Golden Globe is distinguished by a pronounced golden hue of its needles.
• Heather (Ericoides). A dwarf thuja that forms a very fluffy rounded crown. A distinctive feature is the presence of both needle-shaped and planar-shaped scaly branches.
• Miriam. A relatively new variety of dwarf spherical thuja, bred on the basis of the Danika variety. The diameter does not reach more than 80 cm, it is distinguished by the regular shape of the crown and the golden color of the needles.
• Woodward. The crown is formed in the form of a ball about 5 m in diameter, the height does not exceed 2.5 m.
• Tiny Tim. Dwarf thuja with a spherical crown up to 1.5 m high.

Tall thujas, planted in a row, act as a hedge on the site. Dwarf ones can be used to decorate borders, as separate elements. You get interesting compositions if you plant a mix of thujas with different crown shades, for example: Bodmeri, Sunkist, Zebrina, Danica, Golden Globe. Thujas not only decorate the area, but also saturate the air with phytoncides - disinfecting substances. It’s not for nothing that the word “thuja” is translated from Greek as “incense.” Mini varieties can also be grown at home.

Thuja planting site, soil requirements, planting hole

Before planting the plant, determine its location. It is best to have a windless area in the shade, but not in the wilderness.

Leave a distance between seedlings of about 1 meter or less if necessary to create a hedge. If you have a variety of large trees, then you can leave a distance of up to 3-5 meters.

The ideal soil should be light and nutritious, because... on dry soils the plant may turn yellow and dry out.

To prepare a planting hole, you need to remove the turf (grass with roots) with a shovel, shake off the soil from the roots - we will need it later, and the roots can be disposed of.

Preparing the planting hole

The size of the planting hole is about 40 cm in diameter and 30-35 cm deep. If it is necessary to plant thuja in rocky soil, then, if possible, make the planting hole a little wider so that by the time the roots reach the stones the tree is already as strong as possible.

Planting soil consists of peat, humus, fallen leaves or pine needles. If the soil is clayey, add sand; if it is sandy, add stones, clay, or gravel or expanded clay to the bottom of the hole.

What to do if the thuja begins to turn yellow

Although the thuja is evergreen, this cannot guarantee that its needles will not turn yellow. The most common cause of yellowing on branches is loss of chlorophyll. The needles die, and a new one appears in its place.

Closer to winter, after the first frost, the needles may turn yellow due to natural protection from the cold. It is not necessary to mercilessly remove branches with yellowed leaves - just remove the yellow needles. Under no circumstances should you leave dead needles: they can become an ideal breeding ground for fungal infections.

Important! The process of dying off of green needles is the norm for thuja - this happens every 3-6 years.

Features of caring for an evergreen plant

We talked about the fact that thuja requires minimal care. Even if you leave the tree to grow without your help, it will still grow and be green, but outwardly it will not look as good as it could, and its lifespan will most likely be reduced to 50-70 years.

A healthy flowering plant will delight you for many years with careful care:

Systematic watering. Thuja occidentalis Smaragd loves moisture very much and does not tolerate soil drying out. In the summer, thuja must be irrigated with water at least once a week, and in all other seasons, 1-2 times a month will be sufficient. The tree will be grateful to you if you periodically spray it with water, thereby eliminating dust deposits and various small insects. Take care of the soil and soil around the plant. Remove weeds and destroy insect nests. Firstly, this will support the aesthetics of your planting, and secondly, this way you saturate the earth with oxygen, which means you contribute to the faster development of the plant; Don't forget to loosen the soil periodically

This is very important for providing the root system with oxygen. Please note: you need to loosen shallowly and very carefully, since you remember that you planted the thuja shallowly. It is important to mulch the soil once a year by adding peat and tree bark. Feed the plant with fertilizers 2 times a season. Trim your tree periodically. Careful sanitary pruning will help you get rid of dry shoots. Use only sharp pruning shears for gentle pruning. Cover your trees standing in the sun from the heat with a thin blanket.

Propagation of thuja by seeds and cuttings in a pot and care at home

Thuja can be propagated by seeds, cuttings or branches and layering. But the process of growing thuja from seeds takes up to six years. In addition, maternal properties are not transmitted with this method of reproduction.

The seeds must be fresh. When stored in a warm place, they lose their viability. To get the seeds out of the cones, you need to separate them. The removed seeds are dried and sifted through a coarse sieve. In regions where snow lasts for a long time, you can tie the seeds in gauze and, after the snow falls, bury them in a snowdrift to a depth of 30 cm.

When the seeds hatch, they are planted in the sand. Germinate at high temperature, covered with glass or film. If weather conditions permit, you can plant them outside in loose soil mixed with sand, covered with a mini-greenhouse.

Thuja cuttings:

• Most often, thuja is propagated by semi-lignified cuttings. They are cut in cloudy weather or in the morning from the middle part of an adult plant. It’s better not to even cut it, but to tear it off with a sharp movement from top to bottom, so that at the end of the cutting there remains a heel - a piece of bark from the branch. The larger it is, the higher the chances of rooting.
• The cuttings must be healthy, not very young or old. The lower branches with leaves are removed so that after planting they do not touch the surface of the ground. They are rooted in a specially prepared mixture. To prepare it, mix peat and sand in equal parts.
• It is advisable to install the prepared cuttings in a solution of Kornevin or another root formation stimulator.
• Planted in the ground, buried a few centimeters and tilted at an angle of 60°. Cover with a plastic bottle or jar. This will help maintain the humidity level around 70% inside the mini-greenhouse. The rooting temperature should be about 23°C.
• Periodically remove the cover to spray the cuttings and ventilate the rooting area. If this is not done, mold may grow under the shelter and the cuttings will die. The cover is completely removed after the thuja begins to grow.

Propagation by branches is carried out in almost the same way as by cuttings. In this case, the use of Kornevin is mandatory. Sand and dishes must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate before planting.

It is difficult to propagate thuja by layering due to the small amount of free space in the pot around the trunk. You can try placing another pot next to it and pinning the cuttings into it, after first picking off the leaves from the area of ​​the branch. Sprinkle soil on top. Watered. After the roots have formed, the cuttings are separated from the mother plant.

Thuja or life tree is an evergreen coniferous plant with soft, needle-like leaves. Thuja indoors, grown at home, is a representative of the Thuja Oriental variety. It is unpretentious, looks aesthetically pleasing and has a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the apartment. With the right approach, propagation of this plant does not cause difficulties.

Thuja propagates in two ways: seeds and cuttings.

Seeds

To prepare the seeds for planting, the cones are cut from the tree and placed in a warm place to dry. As a result, the seeds fall out on their own. Growing thuja from seeds is a very labor-intensive and time-consuming process, so it is rarely used.

The algorithm is as follows:

• Dry seeds are wrapped in a damp cloth for a day, which is replenished with water from time to time, preventing it from drying out.
• Drainage and prepared soil mixture are poured into the pot, watered, one thuja seed is placed there (without burying) and sprinkled with sawdust. Water again from time to time.
• The seed germinates in about a month.
• The sprout will turn into an adult bush only after five years.

Cuttings

This is a much faster method, which also guarantees the preservation of varietal characteristics, whereas during seed propagation they are often lost.

Timing of cuttings

In the spring, thuja bushes emerge from winter anabiosis, and the branches receive a signal to begin increased growth. Therefore, it is best to prepare cuttings for propagation from the end of March to the end of April, when the branches are ready to take root.

The second option is cuttings in the fall. You should choose a cloudy day in mid-October, when the sap in the trunk slows down the movement. Such shoots take longer to take root, but more reliably; they will not experience water shortages.

The upper part of a healthy, strong plant is suitable for taking cuttings. It is undesirable to cut them off at the bottom: this can cause the trunk of the future seedling to become bent.

Suitable shoots 10-15 centimeters long are located at the ends of the shoots, and their stems are covered with young bark.

If the bark is old and rough, such a cutting will not take root. Sprouts with smooth stems, without bark, are not yet capable of rooting.

The branch should be torn off manually, moving from top to bottom, together with a strip of bark - the “heel”. It contains useful substances that will nourish the cutting for some time.

With proper execution and subsequent care, rooting thuja does not present any particular difficulties.

Preparation of cuttings

It is not advisable to store cut cuttings for a long time. If the need nevertheless arises, you need to place them in a dark room, after wrapping them in a damp cloth. But it’s better to start planting as early as possible, having properly prepared them beforehand:

• Clear the lower part of the stem from branches and bark - they may begin to rot.
• Treat with a root growth stimulator - place the cuttings in it for 12 hours.

Soil preparation

For rooting cuttings, clean river sand or loose soil mixture is suitable, which can be purchased in a store or obtained by mixing sand, peat and leaf humus in a 1:1:1 ratio.

Disinfection is necessary: ​​a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate is added to the soil, and the sand is boiled.

The soil is placed in a shallow seedling pot with holes for air in and water out.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the best varieties of late cabbage seeds

Rooting process

Provided that both the soil and the cuttings themselves are ready, you can start planting:

1. The branches are placed a couple of centimeters into the ground, but not straight, but at an angle of 45°.
2. The distance between cuttings should be at least 5 centimeters.
3. The soil around the base of the cuttings is lightly compacted and moistened.
4. The pot is covered with plastic film or a plastic lid.
5. Signs of successful rooting are new shoots on cuttings.

Among plant growers, a non-standard method of rooting thuja cuttings is also common - in a potato tuber:

1. Healthy medium-sized potatoes are washed and cleared of eyes.
2. An awl or nail is used to pierce a hole about four centimeters deep, into which the end of the branch is inserted.
3. The potato is placed in nutrient soil in a wooden box.
4. The process is covered with a dome made from half a plastic bottle.
5. When watering, the dome is not removed, but the bottle cap is unscrewed.

It is advisable to keep thuja seedlings at temperatures from 18° to 23°C and air humidity of 70%. In this case, the room must be systematically ventilated.

In addition, it is necessary to provide diffused lighting, but in no case should the seedlings be exposed to direct sunlight.

In bright light, plants begin to dry out, their needles turn yellow and fall off.

Watering is done as the soil dries. Excessive amounts of moisture are contraindicated for thuja. It is advisable to water with a spray bottle to prevent the needles from getting wet and blurring the “heel” of the cutting.

After the first young shoots appear, it is necessary to begin to open the seedlings to fresh air, gradually increasing the ventilation time. In this way, young plants get used to new growing conditions.

Transplanting into a pot

Any type of pot is suitable for transplanting thuja to a permanent place.

You should not take a container that is too small, which may limit the growth of the root system. You also need to make sure that there are enough holes in the bottom to allow water to pass through.

Algorithm:

1. Drainage is poured into the bottom - for example, expanded clay.
2. The transplant is performed together with the root ball.
3. A slightly acidic soil mixture is poured. You can prepare it yourself by mixing sand, coniferous soil and leaf soil in a ratio of 1: 2: 4, respectively.
4. The soil level in relation to the stem should remain the same. Also, do not compact the soil around the stem too much.

It should be borne in mind that during subsequent transplants (and they need to be done once every year or two), it is better to use soil of a different composition.

For adult plants, a mixture of sand, peat and turf soil in a ratio of 1:2:2 is recommended.

Thuja is an unpretentious plant and does not require special care, but some nuances should be taken into account.

Humidity

The humidity level in the apartment should not fall below 40%.

If the air is dry, you need to spray the plant with warm water.

Top dressing

Fertilizing the soil can be done in the warm season up to twice a month. You should choose complexes for coniferous trees, but apply only half the dose indicated on the package. Nitrogen fertilizers are used for fertilizing in the spring, and potassium fertilizers in the summer.

Thuja is not only a spectacular houseplant, it brings practical benefits by releasing phytoncides into the air. These essential oils have a pleasant odor reminiscent of spruce resin and have an antibacterial effect, killing harmful microorganisms in the room.

How to care for thuja

Proper care of this conifer involves watering, fertilizing, loosening the tree trunk, and forming a crown. After the tree is planted in its permanent place of residence, primary feeding is carried out. For these purposes, growth stimulants of natural origin are often used (most gardeners choose Epin). The components of such fertilizers contribute to better rooting of the tree and improve disease resistance. In the spring, thuja can be fed with potassium-phosphorus supplements, it is better to do this twice, the break between fertilizers should be 10-15 days.

In spring, the frequency of watering is affected by the amount of rain; with the onset of summer, 2 times a week is enough, in spring – 1 time. If the rains are frequent, then there is no need to water, rain moisture will be enough. Thuja requires high-quality watering at all stages of life (seedling, adult tree), while the crown also loves irrigation. In order for the branches to be elastic, shiny, and delight you with the brightness of green shades, the minimum amount of water for the root area should be 10 liters per watering (once a week, if the summer is very dry, then up to 3 times). You can determine the lack of moisture by the condition of the top of the thuja - it begins to turn yellow. It is better to water trees early in the morning or in the evening.

Thuja is very fond of irrigating the crown; for these procedures, purchasing a special nozzle becomes relevant. This sprinkling washes away dust, provides a fresher appearance to the tree, and begins to release a pleasant pine aroma. Don’t be afraid to overdo it with irrigation; 1-2 times a day will only bring benefits to the thuja.

Returning to fertilizers, it is worth noting that too frequent fertilizing is not required for thuja. Special mineral compositions for conifers (for example, “Fertika”) or compost, which has already become a classic additive, can be used twice a season – in spring and summer. Fertilizers are applied during loosening: they are laid out in a circle near the trunk, and during fluffing they are mixed with the top layer of soil. In summer, the additive can be diluted with water and used for watering.

The tree trunk area must be periodically cleared of weeds, loosened, and mulched with sawdust or compost. Decoratively painted sawdust (they are painted with natural ingredients) or nut shells look very attractive. Mulching creates some barrier for weeds, retains moisture, and improves the condition of the tree as a whole.

As for cutting or artistic pruning, it is better not to touch it for the first two years of the tree’s life; it should take root in its place. You can start caring for the crown from the third year from the moment of planting. Initially, dry, weak branches are removed and the degree of density is determined. Excessive thinning has a negative effect on the decorative qualities of the tree; everything should be in moderation.

The main pruning is carried out in April, and then only the shape is corrected. To ensure high-quality air circulation and maintain the “vigorous” appearance of the thuja, gardeners recommend removing all branches of the annual growth.

If the artistic design requires the tree to grow in width, then only the upper part of the crown should be trimmed. From thujas you can create various geometric shapes, columns, animal figures or fairy-tale characters. Beginner gardeners can quite easily give the crown of a tree the shape of a ball, a cascade, or a border. Haircut or pruning is best done in dry weather.

How fast does thuja grow? It depends on the variety. Dwarf varieties grow slowly. Vertical ones are faster, but annual growth also depends on the variety. For example, thuja Brabant gives up to 30-40 cm of growth per year, and Smaragd - up to 10 cm.

Is it necessary and how to cover thuja for the winter?

A striking representative of the cypress tree family is the beautiful thuja. It is considered unpretentious in care, but requires some preparation for winter. Incorrect or untimely care in the fall leads to the death of the tree. Experienced gardeners who grow the crop even under unfavorable climatic conditions will share secrets on how to cover thuja for the winter.

An adult plant aged 5 years and older does not need shelter even at a temperature of -30 degrees. The tree easily tolerates light frosts, overwinters well, and low temperatures do not frighten it at all. For young plants, frost poses a threat. A tree that is not yet 4-5 years old has weak branches. When snow covers the branches, they become deformed and break under the weight.

Another danger to the tree is the winter sun. It is very active, so burns often form on thuja branches and the needles burn out. Even if direct sunlight does not hit the crown too much, the needles may suffer from drying out. If the thuja has not been prepared for winter, then it is most likely that the following shortcomings will appear on the tree:

• the shoots will be twisted and ugly;
• the color of the crown will change to yellow-green;
• the needles will dry out and then fall off.

To prevent an unpleasant outcome and preserve the culture, make a shelter for it. Nothing bad will happen to the thuja over the winter, and in spring and summer it will continue to delight with its attractive appearance and decorate your summer cottage.

How to cover thuja

Sheltering a thuja for the winter is a simple process, but a little painstaking, as it requires care. First, tie the tree branches with thick twine. Do not pull the twine too tight, otherwise it will be hard on the branches. It is enough to fix the crown so that snow cannot fall on the branches. Gather the branches up toward the center of the tree and then begin tying in a circle. Start the process at the base of the tree and gradually move to the top.

If your region experiences heavy snowfalls with the onset of winter, it makes sense to build a frame. You need to drive 3 pins made of metal or wood into the ground next to the crop. They should intersect at one point - above the top of the tree. Then wrap the frame with covering material that allows air to pass through. Be sure to strengthen the material to the frame so that it does not blow away in a gust of wind. Tie it with twine, for example.

Low young thujas can be covered in wooden boxes in the garden.

Stores that offer a large selection of gardening tools sometimes have special covers for plants on sale. Buy them, they are easy to use and will serve you for decades. You just need to put the cover on and straighten it on the thuja, then the plant will stand wonderfully all winter, until the beginning of spring. In the spring, remove the cover, wash and dry it; you won’t need it until the fall.

Another method of shelter is to install a sun screen. This could be a wooden box or a homemade device. Drive the pegs parallel to each other into the ground. Cover the space between the pegs with roofing material or a special sun-protective fabric. Such a shelter will prevent the needles from burning out even in the spring, when the sun is very active.

To protect thuja in winter, use a few practical tips:

• annual and biennial trees are covered first, even before the snow falls;
• if a lot of snow has fallen during the winter, remove it from the shelter;
• the cover can be removed after the snow begins to melt.

It is more convenient to cover a tree with two or three people. Ask someone in your family to help you, and you can do it in just a few minutes.

Warming the roots

In addition to keeping the crown warm and protected from the sun, you need to think about how to insulate the root system. The roots of young plants are exposed to frost, and the plant itself will quickly die if the roots are frozen. Suitable for insulating the root system:

• peat or any other organic component. The main condition is that the mulch must have a loose layer;
• a mixture of fallen autumn leaves with soil or humus. In addition to protection from the cold, such a mixture will eventually become an excellent fertilizer for the root system;
• sawdust, straw.

The thickness of the mulch layer should be at least 5 cm, but no more than 10 cm. The mulch is placed near the tree trunk, and bastweed is laid on top of it. It will protect the root system from rodents and press down the mulch.

Before mulching the soil, water it with water 3-4 days before. The soil should be moist. The roots need to be saturated with moisture for the coming winter.

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Choose the material for covering the thuja depending on its throughput; it should be high and allow air to penetrate inside. It is strictly forbidden to take material that does not allow air to pass through, for example, cellophane film. A greenhouse effect will develop under it, as a result of which the tree will begin to rot, shed its needles and get sick. The best material for winter shelter is:

• spunbond;
• lutrasil;
• agrospan;
• agroterm;
• craft;
• sackcloth;
• gauze.

Choose a material with a white color; in addition to warmth, it will reflect the sun’s rays from the tree, thereby preventing the needles from “burning.” Therefore, if you choose black roofing felt for covering, wrap a white sheet or duvet cover over it.

If your thuja is still small, then it is probably still sitting in the pot. Then there will be no problems with shelter, just with the onset of sharp cold weather, remove the tree from the street into a cool room, place the pot with the plant in the basement, cellar, or take it out onto a glazed balcony.

The optimal temperature range for wintering thuja is considered to be from 4 to 10 degrees Celsius. Check that there is no high humidity in the room, and water the plant itself well and wrap it in craft paper. It is advisable that there is a light source in the room, for example, a small window.

You can move the thuja to a cool room for the winter, but just keep the plant away from heating radiators and open the window for fresh air.

There are different ways to close a tree for the winter in different regions. It depends on the onset of cold weather in a particular region, on the duration of winter and on its average temperature. So, in the southern zone the tree does not have to be covered for the winter. It grows quietly both in a summer cottage and in the forest. But for other regions, to preserve thuja in winter, you need to make a little effort.

Middle lane

Cooling in the middle zone begins in late October or early November. At this time, when there is no snow yet, a 5-centimeter layer of mulch is laid near the tree trunk, covered with spruce branches and the crop is left to overwinter. Around the second part of winter, from the end of January, sun-reflecting screens are installed next to the tree to protect the needles.

Volga region

Winter comes to the Volga region at the end of autumn, so from the end of October you can begin winter preparations. For the Volga region, as well as for the Central zone, only mulch is laid for wintering. The layer can be thicker, its height will be about 10 cm. Only young trees can be protected from the cold. Take a 5-liter plastic bottle, cut off the bottom and cover the tree with it.

Ural and Siberia

In the northern part of the country, winter comes very early, literally in mid-October, so preparations begin earlier than in the central part of Russia. To begin with, the soil is mulched with a layer of peat or sawdust 10 cm thick. Fir branches are placed on top of the mulch. Then a cone-shaped wire frame is made.

Inexperienced gardeners who have never encountered growing crops immediately make many mistakes. As a result, the tree cannot tolerate them and over time either dries out or rots. Here are options for the most common mistakes from agricultural practice:

• for the winter, the crowns of young trees are left uncovered;
• use fertilizers that are intended for deciduous trees (nitrogen complexes);
• do not cover the needles with sun screens;
• the shelter is removed too early.

An important step in the development of a tree is the formation of the crown. If it is not planted correctly, the plant immediately loses its appearance. Therefore, after the shelter is removed, the thuja needs to be trimmed. For pruning, take pruning shears, they are convenient to work with.

First of all, remove dry and diseased branches with yellow needles from the top and middle part of the tree, they are already dead. If the crown is excessively thick, thin it out a little. This will increase the breathability of the tree and also reduce the risk of pest attack on the crop.

In order for your thuja to grow better not up, but in width, cut off part of the top; trimming the top helps stimulate the side shoots, they become more active. There are 3 types of thuja pruning:

• spiral The most common form for pruning thuja. in general, the tree resembles a large cone, its top will be narrowed;
• spherical. This option is suitable for forming low crowns. The plant looks great on a summer cottage, in a winter garden;
• topiary The crown is formed in the form of any geometric figure: rhombus, square, ball. Garden stores sell metal frame molds for laying the crown, according to which they subsequently perform pruning.

Thuja will be the main decoration of your local area if you care for it correctly: protect it from the cold outside, trim the crown, and water it regularly. A healthy and beautiful tree pleases the eye and attracts the attention of everyone around. Thuja can live for decades, no matter what region you plant it in, so if you love evergreens, then the choice for planting is obvious.

Fruit container garden

You can literally set up a container garden on your property! You can plant apple and plum trees on dwarf rootstocks in pots. Young two-year-old plants are suitable for planting, but to obtain a harvest it is advisable to simultaneously grow at least 2 different varieties. But this is only if there are no apple trees in your garden or nearby in your neighbor’s. In principle, you can completely limit yourself to one variety with a high level of self-fertility (hybrid X-2).

Growing columnar apple trees in containers is promising: a 4-7 year old specimen planted in a container with a volume of 10-20 liters can produce from 10 to 30 apples per year.

The apple tree is a light- and heat-loving plant, so place the container with the tree on the south or west side of the house, in a place protected from the wind. On hot sunny days, containers with apple trees should be placed in the shade.

In addition to apple trees, you can grow a small plum or blueberry bush in containers. And if caring for a plum is approximately the same as caring for an apple tree, then blueberries have slightly different requirements. The main thing is the substrate: it should consist of half garden soil and peat. To maintain soil acidity, you should use sphagnum or fallen pine needles as mulch. In addition, once a month the water for irrigation needs to be acidified.

Wintering conditions for the “orchard” are the same as for any other container tree crops. Place containers with apple trees and plums in the basement, garage or on an unheated loggia, the main thing is that the room temperature does not drop below -10 ° C, or bury them in the garden (15-20 cm below the top edge of the container) and cover them with snow, ideally at the entire height of the crown.

Blueberries in a pot

Can thujas overwinter in pots? Basic ways to store container plants in winter

Annual and perennial plants are grown in container culture, so the methods for storing containers in winter are strikingly different.

Annual plants are simply removed from the containers along with the soil in the fall. The soil on the site can be stored in a pile, sprinkled with manure and humus. Heaps of used soil left for the winter will freeze thoroughly, which will allow the destruction of pests that may be located in the soil. By spring, the soil will acquire natural moisture, after which it can be reused by adding sand, starting fertilizers and other necessary additives.

After emptying the containers, they must be thoroughly washed, salt deposits removed from the walls, and disinfected. Until the next planting, they can be stored in a barn or basement.

To preserve perennial container plants in winter, there are several basic methods that have proven to be the best options:

Source: zelynyjsad.info

Reproduction methods

Thuja, like most indoor plants, can be propagated by cuttings and seeds.

Growing from seeds

Growing thuja from seeds requires a lot of time, patience, and also certain knowledge. You also need to remember that plants grown from seeds do not always retain varietal characteristics. Cones from an adult tree are used to collect seeds. When the cones are fully ripe, they are cut off and stored in a dark and warm place. Once cracks appear on them, you can remove the seeds. Before sowing into the substrate, the seed material is placed in a moistened cloth for 24 hours. Throughout the day, make sure that the napkin does not dry out.

Fill a small container with soil mixture intended for growing young thuja (see above). After the seeds are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil mixture, they are covered with a layer of sand or sawdust on top. Place the crops in a place where the air temperature is between 20–23 degrees, and the light should be diffused. The first seedlings should appear after 4–6 weeks. The seedling will become a fully formed, spectacular tree only after 3–5 years. In this regard, thuja is rarely grown from seeds.

Cuttings

To prepare cuttings, cut off the side branches. Moreover, the cuttings need to be cut with “heels” (part of the lignified stem), and the length of the segment should be approximately 10 cm. The cut site is treated with Kornevin’s solution, after which the cuttings are planted in the substrate for rooting. There is no need to water these cuttings. Then they are put in a warm place and do not forget to systematically moisten the soil mixture from a spray bottle. When young leaf blades appear on the segment, this will be a signal that rooting was successful. Next, the cuttings are transferred to a well-ventilated place. After a little time, the rooted sections are planted in permanent containers.

Methods

Preparation of thuja for winter begins in the fall, before the first frost and snow. The simplest option is bags of a suitable size, which are secured with twine. It is enough to wrap an adult plant with strong roots with a strong rope. Another way to cover tall varieties of thuja involves constructing a frame. It’s not difficult to make – just drive three metal pins over the top of the thuja (crosswise) and secure it. Then cover the frame with non-woven material. Special shields that create shade will provide excellent protection from the spring sun. Low-growing bushes can be covered with wooden boxes. Snow from “insulated” trees must be periodically shaken off.

Many gardeners plant evergreen thujas in tubs. In winter, plants are removed indoors or covered with non-woven material. As a rule, there is drainage installed at the bottom of the container, which perfectly helps to retain moisture in the pots. Simply water the plant and cover it with a cotton bag, securing it around the trunk with wire or rope. It is important to know that a coniferous tree will not be able to survive the winter in a dark and damp room. In winter, thujas growing in tubs require certain conditions.

• The optimal temperature should not exceed +5 degrees. If the thermometer in the room drops to -3, then the pots are additionally insulated.
• Regular watering. In winter, the soil in the tubs should not be allowed to dry out. This will cause the tree needles to yellow and fall off.

Also, thuja in containers overwinters well on a glazed balcony. Caring for the plant will not be difficult. The tree will be able to receive the necessary lighting and fresh air. Before the onset of frost, the plant is watered abundantly and wrapped in craft paper. Throughout the winter, water is periodically poured into the bowls located under the pots. The permissible room temperature should not exceed +12 degrees.

Reproduction of thuja

Thuja propagates by seeds and cuttings. Growing by seeds is not practical - the cypress plant grows very slowly

But it’s a pleasure to grow cuttings - it’s important to know how! Very simple: in autumn or spring, cut a thuja twig about 15 cm long

Fill the zip bag with sterilized soil, insert the cutting and close

If blue-green algae appears on the walls, it’s okay, it’s due to high humidity

You can plant thuja cuttings in a pot when they grow 5-7 cm

Take a spacious zip bag (with a zipper), prepare the soil: 1 part universal soil (for example, Terra Vita Living Earth) and 1 part sand or vermiculite. Stir and sterilize for 3 minutes in the microwave. Cool and pour into a bag. The substrate should be moist, but not too damp (moisten with boiled water). Place the cutting in the substrate and close the bag tightly. Hang it in a bright place - if the cutting is cut in the fall (October-November), then you can hang it on a south window without shading. If in early spring, then only under shade from direct sun. There is no need to open the package; it retains about 90% humidity. Just wait for the roots to appear. They are dark, not light, like many indoor plants, so they are hardly noticeable.

When the thuja takes root, it needs to be transplanted into a pot in the soil described above for adult plants. Place the pot in a bag and tie it. For the first week, shade from any sun and ventilate 2-3 times a day. After a week, the bag can be untied, but not removed, but gradually accustom the young plant to drier air. As soon as the opportunity arises, place the pot in the fresh air on the balcony.

Forum topic: You can discuss thuja propagation, add your comments and share your experience.

Thuja after winter

With the onset of spring, many gardeners observe an unpleasant picture: the thuja leaves have turned brown and the branches have become dry. This may be due to a number of reasons.

• High alkali content in the soil. Arborvitae grow in light, slightly acidic soils. This reason can be identified using a special indicator test (sold in gardening stores).
• Sunburn. The shelter was probably chosen incorrectly, since the material allowed ultraviolet rays to pass through. A weakened tree may suffer from insects or fungal diseases. Treating the crown with fungicides will help restore the plant. However, the treatment process will be long (2–3 years).
• Also, the cause of drying out can be improper planting. The tree can be easily “moved” to another place.

Common Questions

How to form a bonsai from a thuja? The flower can be used as a bonsai model. To do this, the trunk is artificially bent, secured with wire, excess branches are cut off, and a crown is formed.

How to prepare a plant for winter? In autumn, the air temperature begins to gradually decrease. Watering is reduced slightly and complementary feeding is stopped.

Which pot is suitable for the plant? The flower is grown in ordinary flowerpots. The only requirement for a pot is the material (everything except ceramics and metal).

What signs are associated with the flower? There are many signs associated with thuja - the plant cleanses the energy of the house and has a beneficial effect on its residents.

How to choose a place for indoor thuja? Correct location plays a big role in growing a flower. The ideal place for thuja is in partial shade.

Decorative thuja is unpretentious, so caring for it is easy. The plant exudes a very delicate aroma, reminiscent of the pleasant smell of spruce resin, which helps restore emotional and physical fatigue after a hard day at work and effectively relieves stress.

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Diseases and pests

Young thuja branches can be damaged by omnivorous aphids. It settles at the ends of young shoots with the help of ants, which carry it to the bush. When multiplying, it sucks juice from young shoots. As a result, they stop growing and dry out. The tree loses its decorative effect and may even die. You need to fight aphids by treating the plant with insecticides according to the scheme specified in the instructions for the drug.

We suggest you read How to care for root begonia

Thuja leaves can be damaged by needle-eating leaf rollers and moths, root and stem scale insects, and the thuja pine beetle. Treated with Fufanon.

There are few diseases of thuja. They are mainly of fungal origin, for example. Brown mold. You need to fight them by spraying them with fungicides after 10-14 days. This could be a drug for indoor plants: Foley, Karbofos, or the organic fungicide Fitosporin.

Conifers in pots on the balcony and terrace - list of varieties and varieties

The most popular conifers in pots for balconies and terraces are yew, juniper, mountain pine, and thuja. However, there are many more varieties of conifers that are ideal for growing in pots. Below is a list of them.

Hemlock '

'Nana' is a dwarf species up to 1m in height.

Yew berry

'Summergold' – yellow needles, grows very slowly (it takes 10 years to grow up to 1m), requires pruning as it grows wide.

Yew medium

'Wojtek' – narrow variety, columnar, frost-resistant.

'Hicksii' is a bushy variety, excellent for shaping.

Cypress pea

'Filifera Nana' is a miniature, frost-resistant variety.

Chinese juniper

'Blue Alps' – bushy growth, bluish needles.

'Kuriwao Gold' – young growths are bright green, which looks very colorful against the background of the dark green of old needles.

Juniper squamosus

`Blue star' – dwarf, compact, grows 3-5 cm per year.

Juniper horizontal

'Golden Carpet' – grows to approximately 15cm tall. and 1.5 m wide, grows 10 cm per year.

'Plumosa' – needles turn brownish-purple in winter.

Common juniper, or Veres

'Depressa Aurea' – grows up to 50cm in height and about 1.5m in width, grows about 15cm per year, young shoots are bright yellow, changing color to yellow-brown with age.

'Anna Maria' – compact, almost spherical cut.

'Compressa' – narrow, columnar cut.

'Suecica Nana' is a dwarf, columnar variety.

Juniper medium

'Old Gold' and 'Gold Star' are bushy varieties with golden needles.

Juniper Cossack

'Variegata' – grows about 8 cm per year, has numerous white-cream inclusions.

'Tamariscifolia' – grows about 8 cm per year, in young plants the branches grow horizontally, and with age they fold, forming a dome-shaped bush.

• Microbiota (Siberian) cross-paired - low, undemanding shrub, growing approx. 0.4m high and 2m wide, grows about 10cm per year.
• Larch (European) deciduous

'Pendula', 'Repens' – creeping shoots (lie on the ground), therefore grafted at a height of 1.5-2m.

Bosnian pine

'Smidtii' is a very slow growing, dwarf variety with a spherical habit.

Mountain pine is a bushy, slow-growing plant.

'Humpy' – bushy habit, annual growth 3-4cm.

'Pumilio' is a low, elongated bush with slow growth.

'Winter Gold' is a miniature variety, the needles are light green in summer, turning golden yellow in winter.

• Bristlecone pine is a bushy plant, a slow growing plant with an annual growth of approx. 10cm.
• Weymouth pine (eastern white)

'Radiata' is a very slow growing variety. after 10 years it grows to 80cm in height.

Gray spruce

'Conica' is a cone-shaped variety that grows very slowly.

'Laurin' – narrow, tapered cut.

Black spruce

'Nana' is a bushy variety, gray-green in color.

Blue spruce

'Glauca Globosa' – young plants have a spherical appearance, older ones are small trees.

Norway spruce

'Echiniformis' – grows to about 60cm.

'Nidiformis' – nest-shaped.

'Little Gem' – spherical cut, grows up to 50cm.

Arbor vitae

'Aurea Nana' – yellow needles, ovoid in shape, grows slowly, grows about 6cm per year, golden yellow color.

'Justynka' is a slow-growing variety, grows about 8 cm per year, green in color.

Thuja occidentalis

'Danica', 'Globosa', 'Hoseri' – dwarf, spherical varieties.

'Teddy' – miniature variety, spherical, dense cut.

'Smaragd' – conical cut, needles turn brown for winter.

'Holmstrup' is a columnar variety that turns brownish in winter.

Which conifers grow quickly and which grow slowly?

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Watering and fertilizing thuja

Thuya does not require frequent watering, but this does not mean that we can not add water at all. Young plants in the first year of planting require regular watering. It is best to water rarely, but abundantly, so that the top layer of soil is thoroughly soaked to a depth of 30 cm. During the thuja season, we water it in the morning or evening, once a week (more often during hot weather - the oriental thuja is the most drought-resistant). Long periods of drought can lead to stunted growth and needle drop. When watering, you should avoid soaking the shoots; we water the ground, not the plant!

Thujas, like all evergreens, need watering before winter, so they are watered generously before the first frost. Thanks to this, moisture will be collected in the shoots.

Thujas require regular fertilization, but it is worth remembering that it differs depending on the time of year. Fertilizers are divided into spring-summer and autumn. We carry out the first spring feeding in April or at the latest in early May, and summer feeding in early July. The last application of fertilizers is carried out at the end of September - beginning of October.

List of sources

• www.ogorod.ru
• glav-dacha.ru
• hvorast.ru
• iplants.ru
• zagorodacha.ru
• rastenievod.com
• FlowersAdvice.ru
• www.supersadovnik.ru
• dachnayazhizn.info
• SadGrad.ru
• ogorod23.ru
• ogorod-bez-hlopot.ru
• goodgrunt.ru

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Warming the roots

In addition to keeping the crown warm and protected from the sun, you need to think about how to insulate the root system. The roots of young plants are exposed to frost, and the plant itself will quickly die if the roots are frozen. Suitable for insulating the root system:

• peat or any other organic component. The main condition is that the mulch must have a loose layer;
• a mixture of fallen autumn leaves with soil or humus. In addition to protection from the cold, such a mixture will eventually become an excellent fertilizer for the root system;
• sawdust, straw.