Growing and caring for wisteria in the Moscow region and the Urals

Wisteria or Vesteria is a climbing subtropical tree plant belonging to the legume family. Externally, it resembles a deciduous vine. The perennial has drooping branches with leaves about 28 cm long. Flowering in early spring is simply eye-catching. A beautiful shrub, widely used in garden design.

Wisteria is a fairly heat-loving plant. It is widely used in southern countries and southern Russia. In Crimea and the Northern Black Sea region, it is often found in private gardens and nurseries. It is not possible to grow wisteria in open ground in Siberia, since the winters are frosty. But in a tub with wintering at home, it’s realistic. Read all about planting and caring for wisteria in this article. So.

Which variety to choose for growing

Beautiful wisteria belongs to the legume family.
Some tree varieties can reach 15 m in height, and because of the long racemose inflorescences, branches are sometimes not visible. There are 9 varieties of the plant in total. But not all are grown for decorative purposes. Let us designate popular types of wisteria that can be grown in southern and temperate climates: • Chinese wisteria. During the season, soft purple or white inflorescences up to 30 cm in length bloom on the vines. With proper care and good weather, flowering can continue until autumn. It is not uncommon for wisteria to bloom again in September or October. Representatives of this species are heat-loving, and therefore more common in the south of the country.

• Wisteria profusely flowering (multiflorous). Purple-blue, snow-white or pink hanging inflorescences can reach a length of 50 cm. The plant does not bloom for so long - by the end of June there are no inflorescences left on the shoots. But even after this, wisteria will continue to perform its decorative functions - it has lush green foliage. Wisteria profusely blooms well withstands cold spells - down to -23 ˚С.

• Wisteria is wonderful. Double purple or white inflorescences grow up to 20 cm in length in season. It blooms for a short time - until the end of June.

• Bush wisteria. With proper care, the plant grows up to 12 m in height. The length of the inflorescences is not as long as other varieties. The species is notable for being suitable for growing in containers.

• Japanese wisteria. The species is not very common because it is less frost-resistant. The inflorescences are short, white in color.

Have you already decided on the type of wisteria you will grow? So it's time to choose a place for a new resident of the garden.

Types and varieties

There are about 10 types of wisteria, which are among the best flowering vines that decorate gardens, parks and architectural elements. Among the seedlings brought to England in the first half of the 19th century, some have survived to this day - the oldest known plant is now 200 years old! In many warmer regions, wisteria tends to go wild, even becoming an invasive species.

Known types of wisteria:

• Chinese (W. sinensis);
• profusely flowering (W. floribunda) with exceptionally long inflorescences;
• short-cystic (W. brachybotrys);
• bush or American (W. frutescens) with shorter but fuller clusters;
• beautiful (W. Ventusa).

Among the interesting varieties:

• "Alba" (Alba) - white inflorescences 20-30 cm long. Suitable for growing in the Moscow region, the Middle Zone. Frost resistance up to – 20 degrees.

• "Amethyst" - known for its intoxicating aroma and reddish color of flowers.

• “Profilik” (Prolific) is a wisteria variety that grows 1-2 meters per year. Young shoots twist tightly around the supports counterclockwise, then form leaves. Leaves are 25-30 cm long, dark green. In early May, numerous pale purple-blue butterfly flowers appear on the shoots. Inflorescences in clusters 20-30 cm long.

• “Blue moon” - the variety is grown in central Russia; under the snow it can withstand frosts down to -30-33 degrees. In the first year it grows by about 2 meters. Inflorescences are 25-30cm long.

• "Blue sapphire" - Chinese wisteria, can withstand frosts down to -20 degrees. Can be planted in the Moscow region and southern regions. Flowering period is May-June. Inflorescences are bluish-blue.

Of the several species of the genus Wisteria, two are cultivated in our country:

1. Chinese (Wisteria sinensis);
2. profusely flowering or Japanese, floribunda (Wisteria floribunda).

Their homeland is the warm regions of Asia, which is why they are not always able to survive the winter in our country unharmed. It is believed that the Chinese species copes better with low temperatures, so it is more often found in our gardens.

Chinese

Chinese Wisteria is native to central China. It differs from its close relative, the profusely flowering wisteria, in the following features:

• interweaving of shoots (it is right-sided);
• large flowers;
• short inflorescences.

Photo. Chinese wisteria

Single flowers of Chinese wisteria are small, but in spring (May-June) they appear on the plant in large numbers and form long (about 30 cm), hanging, cluster-shaped inflorescences. The flowers of the Chinese species are often blue, but varieties are white, pink, purple, and sometimes very fragrant. Unfortunately, the flowers linger on the plant for 2-3 weeks, but after flowering a beautiful green veil of large feathery leaves remains. Sometimes it happens that flowers develop again in the second half of summer, fewer of them appear.

In good conditions, Chinese varieties can grow up to 10 m with an annual growth of about 2-3 m. Thick, woody, heavy shoots tightly wrap around supports and require good support. They grow best on durable structures (wooden pergolas), permanent fences (brick) or walls of buildings and gazebos.

Initially, shrubs grow quite slowly. After a few years, when they finally take root, they begin to grow much faster, becoming covered in spring (May-June) with a huge number of flowers. Their roots grow very quickly and are quite extensive, so these shrubs are not suitable for small gardens.

profusely blooming

The abundantly flowering wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) blooms in May, striking the imagination with a huge number of flower clusters - usually blue or purple, less often pink and white. The inflorescence-clusters reach a length of 30-40 cm, and the record holder, the “Multijuga” variety, reaches a length of up to a meter! The variety “Violacea Plena” (“Black Dragon”) has double (multi-petal) flowers.

Some of them smell beautiful, for example the varieties “Plific”, “Ludwig Lavin”. After flowering, the shoots quickly lengthen. Floribunda leaves reach 30 cm in size.

The homeland of abundantly flowering wisteria is Japan, which is why it is sometimes called Japanese. The plant grows well in our climate. Its thick woody stems twine around the supports (always to the left) like monstrous snakes, climbing to a height of 6-10 m. And if allowed to grow near a tree, they can strangle it.

Feeding and watering

During the first year of life, the young plant requires fairly abundant watering. In the future, it will need to be reduced somewhat, and during the dormant period, from late autumn to early spring, it will need to be stopped completely.

As organic you can use: chicken droppings, wood ash, eggshells, manure. You can read more about fertilizing the soil with eggshells in our article.

Fertilizers intended for fruit trees are well suited. The problem of yellowing leaves can be solved by adding iron salts at the root.

In the spring, you can apply potassium fertilizer to encourage flowering, but do not overdo it, as too much potassium can lead to abundant foliage and fewer flowers.

Potash fertilizers

Botanical features of frost-resistant wisteria Blue Moon

The Blue Moon variety is characterized by excellent frost resistance, so this ornamental crop can withstand temperatures down to minus 39-40°C. The height of the above-ground part does not exceed 6-7 m. Flowering is very abundant and long-lasting, from the beginning of summer until about mid-September. The flowers are large in size, up to 2.3-2.5 cm in diameter, lavender-bluish in color. The flower raceme is up to 28-30 cm long. The presence of quite numerous dormant buds and well-developed root shoots allows the ornamental crop to recover from significant spring frosts in the shortest possible time.

Why doesn't wisteria bloom?

This is one of the most common questions among new gardeners. And the answer comes down to four reasons:

Pruning – Wisterias require pruning twice a year in July/August and February

When pruning a plant, it is important to follow certain rules, which will be discussed in more detail below.

The plant is grown from seeds - in this case you can wait from 3 to 20 years for flowering. Therefore, it is better to propagate wisteria in another way or buy ready-made seedlings in specialized nurseries.

Watering - Wisteria needs plenty of watering from July to September.

It is at this time that buds are laid for flowering next year. If the vine does not have enough water during these months, you should not expect abundant flowering next summer.

Frost - Spring frosts can sometimes cause buds to develop before they have a chance to open. The best way to avoid this is to plant your wisteria in a protected location.

Blooming wisteria

Features of cultivation

Florists are constantly debating whether wisteria is a flower or a liana.
Many are inclined to believe that this is a tree. Wisteria or wisteria, as it is also called, is native to the tropics and southern regions. The plant belongs to the legume family. Feels great in Crimea, Kuban and the North Caucasus. It is there that wisteria is used to create hedges, unusual tunnels and as a single plant. When growing this exotic beauty in the Moscow region, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to put a lot of effort into creating conditions for the plant. Considering that flower buds form only on vines that are more than 6 years old, it is very difficult to achieve flowering of wisteria. Indeed, during a harsh winter, the entire above-ground part of the plant may die. Usually only the root system is preserved, capable of sprouting in the spring. In addition, rainy and cool summers and temperature changes also do not contribute to the wild flowering of the plant.

When optimal conditions are created, wisteria can bloom 2 times. The first time - in early spring, the second - in early August.

For normal development, a combination of important components is needed:

1. temperature;
2. light;
3. moisture;
4. feeding;
5. protection.

If you make an effort and provide the wisteria with good care, you can achieve good results.

Despite the fact that wisteria looks like a vine, it does not grow particularly fast. In a year, shoots grow no more than 30-35 cm, and in 6-8 years the plant can grow to the roof of a house. The abundance of leaf mass can cover any wall. But the inflorescences, which reach 30-35 cm, simply amaze the imagination with their grace and beauty.

To grow wisteria in the Moscow region, you must first of all consider how to protect the plant in winter. The best option would be to use container growing. Depending on the age of the plant, you will need a container with a volume of 20 to 60 liters. In October, the container is brought into a room where the temperature is maintained at no lower than 2-5 degrees. In addition, the vine needs lighting. Water wisteria once every 6-7 days. It is not recommended to feed the plant in winter.

With the onset of spring (early to mid-March), the wisteria is taken into a room where there is a lot of light and watered every other day. At this time, they begin to apply fertilizing, and also spray the foliage with solutions to which growth stimulants are added. Wisteria grows in the same way in the Urals. Growing the southern guest is possible in any region of Russia. The main thing is to create appropriate conditions for it. It's not easy at all, but the blooming wisteria is worth it.

Many amateur gardeners, when growing plants from seeds in the Moscow region and the Urals, achieve flowering twice a year. However, the tree grows for a very long time, and it will take more than one year before it matures.

When growing wisteria, first of all, you need to choose the right variety . The best will be cold-resistant F1 hybrids. It is very good if the plant was grown from seeds under the same conditions in which it will continue to grow.

Wisteria Wisteria in landscape design

The main use of wisteria is vertical gardening. It occupies a minimum of space, but at the same time is capable of weaving the entire wall of a building or gazebo. It grows quickly, easily climbing verticals. It should be noted that the supports for it must be strong and reliable; the weight of an adult plant is large. When growing vertically, the vine serves as its own support; its woody shoots are strong and reliable. But if the growth of young shoots is directed horizontally, the strength of the base is a very important factor. A weak support will simply collapse under the weight of shoots, flowers and leaves. If wisteria weaves along the wall of a house, then it can damage gutters and pipes, window grilles and other similar structures

In the south, wisteria is usually planted next to a terrace, gazebo or pergola. It provides dense shade, covering the resting area from the scorching sun. Drooping inflorescences form a fragrant tent overhead.

A bright large plant can be used as a screen, hiding hidden areas of the garden from prying eyes, and decorating outbuildings. But wisteria can destroy a flimsy fence or an old barn with the weight of its branches.

A new plant always arouses interest, and something as beautiful and original as wisteria will not leave anyone indifferent. How to grow it and preserve it in winter? Some useful tips for caring for wisteria from experienced gardeners.

Tree liana and landscape

Wisteria blooms unforgettably, because the colors of its long inflorescences are shades of blue, red and white.
Huge brushes carefully descend, enveloping those around them with their sweetish aroma.

The beauty of wisteria is appreciated by landscape designers from all over the world, because this plant fascinates with its lush beauty.

Of course, growing a huge plant with lush inflorescences in our country is quite difficult, but if you put in a little effort, you will certainly be able to achieve good results.

Where it is used in landscape design:

• As a rule, its vines wrap around the walls of houses, gazebos, vergolas and open terraces.
• It is used as a chic standard plant grown in huge pots.
• Build a fragrant flowering arch.
• Miniature varieties are ideal for growing indoors.
• It is often used to create a bonsai tree.

In China, during the flowering of these plants, family hikes and excursions are organized; such an unforgettable impression is made on people by a blooming garden of colorful fragrant wisteria.

Wisteria propagation

Varieties and types

Wisteria profusely flowering or Japanese, this species is half shorter than its Chinese relative, but has larger leaves, as well as a large number of them on the vines. In addition, the size of the Japanese wisteria inflorescence is also larger.

Let us especially remember Wisteria Blue Moon, which is the most frost-resistant variety and can withstand temperatures down to -30°C.

Most often, wisteria is propagated using:

• seed method;
• vegetative.

But the seed method is suitable only for experienced gardeners, because the plant from them does not hatch readily. And they require a lot of care. First, the seeds need to be sown in pots or boxes, which are recommended to be placed in a warm and humid place.

To create a greenhouse effect, cover the boxes with film. Spraying the soil should be done using a spray bottle. The seeds are kept in this way for at least a month. After this, they should be brought out into the light.

After the first shoots appear, the plants should be planted in separate containers without separating the earthen clod. The container should first be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, but the plants themselves undergo the same treatment. To do this, after transplanting, you should water them with a manganese solution.

But with such growing methods it is not always possible to get good seedlings. As experts say, only 25% of plants grow. The plant blooms extremely reluctantly, and may never bloom at all.

It is possible to grow wisteria in the Rostov region, you just need to select frost-resistant varieties. And then this beautiful and amazing plant will appear in your garden or small garden. And it can decorate any place where it grows.

Reproduction is possible by cuttings, green shoots, root grafting, air layering and seeds.

Other methods are ineffective and give poor or unpredictable results.

Leningrad and Rostov regions

Many gardeners select a Chinese or multi-flowered variety to grow and care for wisteria in the Leningrad region. Unfortunately, this is completely unacceptable for this area. As a rule, the plant dies. Even if it is possible to grow a vine, its flowering will be very sparse - just a couple of frail inflorescences.

It is best to give preference to a hybrid variety characterized by high frost resistance - “Blue Moon”. This is a large-tasseled variety that will not only develop well, but will also produce excellent flowering. Planting is carried out with seedlings, planting in the ground with the onset of June. To prevent the plant from dying in winter, before frost, the vine should be carefully removed from its supports and thoroughly insulated with lutrasil. They do the same when planting and caring for wisteria in the Rostov region.

Caring for wisteria in the garden

How to grow wisteria.

From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil underneath is always slightly moist, but never wet. If there is no rain in spring, then you will have to water more diligently, because the buds may fall off and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted. From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced. In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to water the wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to fade, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to trim dry branches, tie them up and guide the shoots so that they do not fall and grow in the desired direction. Before the onset of winter, you need to hill up the rosette high, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the tree trunk, as is done with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spunbond or lutrasil. You don’t have to do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, the wisteria may freeze.

Wisteria blooming.

When does wisteria bloom? Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, Japanese - at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who can wait. Wisteria of Chinese varieties blooms from April, and all the buds open at the same time. Wisteria profusely blooms from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will grow greenery, but will not bloom.

Wisteria pruning.

Wisteria is pruned to stimulate flowering and for plant formation. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is selected and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove the abundantly growing side shoots so that the wisteria does not waste energy on overly growing greenery, but directs it to the formation of buds. Pruning wisteria in the spring involves removing young shoots that stick out so that their foliage does not hide the flower clusters from view during flowering. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can produce an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm. Formative pruning of the plant is carried out in the summer: side shoots are cut by 20-40 cm, and at the very end of summer by another 10- 20 cm. However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you may deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush bloom of wisteria.

Wisteria propagation.

We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by seed. It is worth adding that many of the sprouted and even grown seedlings may never produce flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told our readers that propagation by seeds is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative methods of propagation. Wisteria is most easily propagated by layering. To do this, in the spring, select a one-year-old shoot, make an oblique cut in the middle of its length, bend the shoot and place it with the cut on a pot with a clay-turf substrate, secure the branch in this position and dig in, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cuttings from the mother plant only next spring.

Various publications write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on roots, but I don’t know anyone who has actually succeeded in doing this, but my layerings have taken root.

Pests and diseases of wisteria.

Sometimes wisteria is invaded by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed with an insecticide, and mites - with an acaricidal drug. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, it can be affected by chlorosis, which causes its leaves to turn yellow. To combat the disease, root fertilizing of wisteria with iron salts is used.

Caring for charming wisteria

Caring for the plant is not difficult. The liana must be watered, fed and protected from the negative effects of the environment on time.

In the open ground

Wisteria is a moisture-loving vine, so from the first days of flowering it is necessary to spray it with warm water from a spray bottle. The frequency of water procedures is determined based on the air temperature in summer, and with the onset of cold weather they are stopped.

The liana grows quickly, which means it needs to be fed well - over the summer the shoots grow by 1 meter. Every 3 weeks in spring and summer it is useful to apply the following fertilizers:

• rotted cow dung;
• compost;
• chalk solution (100 g per bucket of water).

Wisteria is a moisture-loving vine

Thanks to fertilizing, the leaves and flowers will have a lush appearance, thereby the vine will decorate the garden throughout the summer.

With proper care, wisteria develops intensively and blooms beautifully, growing in width. Summer residents advise giving the vine the desired shape by pruning and removing dry and damaged shoots. If you want to get a standard tree, choose a single powerful stem and remove the rest, but for vertical gardening, wisteria without long lateral shoots is suitable. This way the plant will direct all its energy to forming buds. At the end of flowering, give it the required shape by trimming the shoots on the side by 20 cm. It is best to prune the vine 2 times a year, starting after 1 year of the plant’s life.

The colorful liana is used as a living decoration for gazebos and walls of houses

Caring for indoor wisteria at home

The colorful plant is used as a decoration for winter gardens and halls; it also feels good in the apartment. In the fall, take the wisteria cut into a standard tree into a cool, unheated room with high humidity and leave it there until mid-January. As the day length increases, you need to gradually move the vine to a warm and bright room, watering it moderately. But at the end of February, feel free to move the wisteria into your living space.

In March, be sure to cut off the young shoots of domestic wisteria and form a crown. The plant loves light, so place the pot on the sunny side of the house. An exotic liana in an apartment places high demands on watering; it should be moderate from April to September, and the soil should not be allowed to dry out. In October, irrigation is reduced to a minimum, and with the arrival of warmth it is resumed again.

During the flowering period, the vine should be fed with any liquid fertilizer for indoor flowers. Young specimens are replanted annually, and adults as needed.

Growing and care in open ground

During the first two years after planting, wisteria should be regularly watered, fertilized in the spring, and covered for the winter. Then caring for wisteria includes occasional watering, fertilizing, and pruning.

Trimming

Wisteria grows quite quickly and branches heavily, so it is worth pruning them regularly, which they tolerate very well. Pruning causes lush flowering and helps give the plant the desired shape.

Types of wisteria pruning:

• The absolute minimum is late winter pruning of wisteria, which involves cutting back at least half of the growth for a given year.
• Also, the plant can be given a beautiful shape in the summer, after it has flowered. Since buds form in late autumn, pruning should be done immediately after flowering - in early July.
• Some sources recommend cutting back young shoots every 2 weeks during the summer to encourage the wisteria to bloom rather than grow.
• Radical pruning of old wisteria will make it “shoot” with a vengeance next year, but new shoots may not bloom for several seasons.
• Young plants are pruned less often, and old ones are regularly pruned every year, shortening the shoots by 20-30 cm or more than 4-5 buds.

The shoots of young plants are laid out on supports (without pruning), preferably horizontally, then the bush blooms more abundantly.

You can shape wisteria like a tree. Create a trunk from 2-3 intertwined shoots (initially they must have support). They form a crown by shortening all the shoots several times.

Watering

Young wisterias, which need moisture to take root well, need to be watered regularly. Old plants grow well without watering. The root system of wisteria is very strong and well developed, so adult shrubs do not require watering, except during extremely long periods of drought. During periods of drought, you may find that a little water from time to time will noticeably improve the condition of the leaves.

A layer of mulch at the base of the bush helps keep the soil moist.

Feeding

It is recommended to fertilize wisteria at least once a year - in the spring. To do this, add bone or fish meal and additional potassium sulfate to the soil. Alternatively, you can use specialized fertilizers for flowering shrubs.

It is advisable to feed the shrubs with compost or multi-component long-acting fertilizers with a low nitrogen content. Wisteria needs a lot of phosphorus and potassium, and nitrogen is supplied by root bacteria. Fertilizing with nitrogen suppresses flowering and causes excessive shoot growth.

Why doesn't wisteria bloom?

Wisterias in full bloom are beautiful and delightful climbing plants, but quite often, despite careful care and long waiting, flowers do not appear. There may be several reasons for this:

1. wisteria is propagated by seeds and grows in an inappropriate position;
2. poorly trimmed;
3. buds damaged by spring frosts.

Sometimes you can stimulate a plant to flower by cutting off the roots that have branched over several meters (driving a shovel into the ground at a distance of 2 meters from the base of the vine). Sometimes severe pruning of wisteria shoots in early spring (March) can help.

Reproduction

Wisterias are propagated in several ways:

• from seeds,
• cuttings;
• layering.

In order for wisteria to bloom relatively quickly (in 2-3 years), it is better to propagate it by root or horizontal layering. Some daredevils sow wisteria seeds that appear in dry pods to breed new specimens. It's not a waste of effort, but it may take 10-20 years before the first flowers bloom.

For this reason, it is wiser to propagate wisteria by shoot cuttings:

• green in spring;
• woody in summer.

How to root wisteria cuttings:

1. You need to cut the shoots into cuttings 15-20 cm long.
2. The “heel” of the cutting is dipped in a rooting agent.
3. The cuttings are placed in a pot with a moist substrate and grown at home in a warm room until rooting.

These seedlings are transplanted into the garden next spring. Unfortunately, even in this case, you should expect that wisteria will not bloom until the age of 3-4 years.

Care in autumn, wintering

Green leaves of wisteria are preserved until the first hard frost. When the leaves fall, long pods with seeds remain on the shoots. It is better to pick off the pods; they contain a lot of toxic lectin, like other parts of the plant.

This shrub grows better in the southern regions - in the Rostov region, Crimea. When caring for and growing wisteria in the Moscow region, Leningrad region, and the middle zone, the shoots often freeze.

A prolonged drop in temperature below -10 °C damages flower buds and sometimes tree shoots, especially in young specimens. Fortunately, these climbing plants quickly grow back from their roots in the spring.

Mature shrubs are sometimes partially killed due to frost and wind, but usually are completely restored in the spring. However, seedlings need protection in the first year after planting - it is worth covering the roots with bark and the plant with spruce branches or agrofibre. It is better to plant this shrub near the southern wall of the house or a stone fence. In winter it needs snow cover.

Wisteria can be planted in Siberia and the Urals, but growing it is problematic. In severe frosts, the shrub freezes, and for flowering it needs a warm summer, at least 2 months, so that the air temperature is above 20 degrees. This shrub loves the sun very much.

It should be taken into account that young inflorescences can be damaged by late spring frosts. If possible, after the announcement of the arrival of spring frosts, the branches should be covered with light agrofibre (buds on the eastern exposure freeze most easily).

Diseases and pests

Wisteria is rarely affected by diseases and pests. Sometimes insects can be observed on the leaves:

• miners;
• mealybugs;
• aphid.

They should be combated with chemicals.

There are known cases of plant death as a result of unsuccessful grafting (most of the seedlings available in stores are grafted) or root rot. Then you will have to remove all the bushes.

The leaves of the bush are sometimes affected by powdery mildew or viral diseases. In both cases, diseased shoots should be removed as soon as possible.

How to plant wisteria

You can grow wisteria in 3 ways - seeds, layering and cuttings. Choose the place where you buy seed and planting material carefully. It would be nice to take a cutting from a friend. If no one close to you grows vines yet, purchase seedlings from specialized nurseries - the likelihood of infecting the flower garden with diseased material will be minimized. You can buy planting material only once - when you plant the plant for the first time. In the future, you will receive cuttings and layering from your own plant. But when collecting seeds from wisteria, you may not end up with such beautiful vines - heredity does not always work.

When propagating a plant from seeds, you will see blossoming inflorescences on the vines after at least 5 years, and if the plantings are not properly cared for, after 10 years.

But this method also has an important advantage - the plant immediately adapts to specific weather conditions and becomes more frost-resistant. Aren't you afraid of difficulties? Then buy seeds of the selected variety and start planting

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Plant seeds either in open ground (more suitable for southern regions) or using seedlings. The second option is preferable. Seed material is sown in spring in a seedling box no more than 3 cm deep. For planting, use a nutrient substrate - turf and leaf soil, sand. Keep seedling boxes covered with film or glass in the dark at a temperature of 20-25 °C. After a month, young seedlings can be taken out into the sun. Pick seedlings at the stage of 2-4 full leaves

Do this carefully to prevent damage to the root system. Transfer wisteria to an open area in early summer

In the first winter, in order to avoid the death of young seedlings, they must be carefully covered with sawdust or spruce branches.

Picked wisteria seedlings

To grow wisteria by layering, you will need an annual shoot. In early spring, cut it in the middle. Place the cuttings in the nutrient soil so that the exact place of the cut is buried in the ground. By the end of summer, the shoot will have developed a strong root system, which will allow it to be planted in an open area as an independent plant.

The most popular method among gardeners is planting wisteria from cuttings. For rooting, an annual shoot 25-30 cm long will be required. Planting work begins in March-April using a nutrient substrate (soil, peat and sand). Wisteria will take root well in a box that can be placed at home or in an outdoor greenhouse. The cutting will take root faster if its lower end is treated with a solution of synthetic auxin - indolylbutyric acid or heteroauxin. The shoot is placed in liquid to a depth of 3-4 cm and kept for a day. Then the cuttings need to be rinsed with clean water and planting begins. Immerse the cuttings in the soil with their buds up at a distance of 5 cm from each other. Sprinkle it with soil on top and water it. In order for the shoot to sprout leaves, provide the seedling with high humidity by covering it with polyethylene and providing partial shade. Water your wisteria several times a day. After a couple of months, the young plant will no longer need partial shade and frequent watering. “Relocate” the wisteria to a permanent place in early autumn in order to do so before the onset of frost.

How to prune wisteria (video)

Japanese wisteria

Came to our country from Japan. It is inferior in beauty and frost resistance to other varieties, so it became widespread mainly on the coast of the Caucasus or in the Crimea. Rarely reaches 8–9 m in height, but has large leaves and inflorescences with small flowers. Depending on the garden form, their color palette can be white, pink or light purple.

Chinese wisteria

A beautiful liana with dense foliage native to China, it can grow up to 15 m. It has large foliage and beautiful light purple flowers, arranged in hanging racemes 30 cm long.

The plant prefers sunlit areas, blooms in the spring and maintains flowering vines throughout the summer, which turn into densely pubescent beans in the fall. Often used by gardeners in vertical gardening in the southern regions of Russia. It is notable not only for its bright flowers, but also for its feathery leaves, which transform into golden shades with the onset of cold weather. Using special pruning, you can give it an upright, tree-like or standard shape. Decorative varieties:

• alba;
• captivity;
• Blue Sapphire;
• Sierra Madre.

This variety can only withstand short-term cold snaps down to -20°C.

Wisteria is beautiful

Made in Japan. In Russia it has spread to the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. The difference from other species is that the leaves are covered with velvet, mainly on the underside. The shoots are also covered with silky down. Large purple or pale white double flowers form hanging racemes, 20 cm long.

Wisteria macrocarpal

The beautifully flowering sun-loving vine was bred in North America. It belongs to closely related species of bush wisteria and boasts huge clusters of flowers that reach 30 cm. Inflorescences reach 1.5 m.

Wisteria profusely blooming

The flowering plant was brought to Europe from the USA. Woody vines grow from 8 m to 10 m. The diameter of the stems at the base can reach 25 - 40 cm. The young plant is covered with whitish short hairs, which disappear over time and the shoots become bare. The flowers are hanging, racemose violet-blue inflorescences that bloom in the spring. Repeated flowering is observed in July–September.

Wisteria bush

A special type of wisteria. It grows up to 12 m. It has drooping branches on which violet-blue flowers grow. Remarkably decorates alpine slides, creating an unusual vertical look. A plant planted in a tub in the shape of a small tree can decorate any room.

Growing

Growing and caring for wisteria in the garden requires particularly stable support. A lot of effort must be put into pruning the plant. An overgrown, bulky vine without proper care will break under its own weight.

The best place for wisteria in the garden is a sunny wall of a gazebo, house or a special pergola. The Asian plant needs warmth. Only under the sun does wisteria bloom profusely and beautifully. Gardeners know that all types of plants are quite capricious.

The more work invested, the faster the wisteria will take root and bloom. Growing and caring for wisteria requires care.

It is important to remember several features:

• seedlings purchased at garden centers take 3-5 years to take root before releasing flower buds;
• a vine grown from seeds will bloom only after 10 years;
• The plant should not be watered abundantly, but regularly;
• before flowering, you need to fertilize the soil at the roots every week;
• nitrogen fertilizers should be avoided. In leguminous plants, nitrogen causes vigorous development of foliage, but not flowering;
• Sometimes wisteria does not bloom at all for several years. This specimen needs to be “nudged” by adding potassium fertilizers to the soil in autumn and winter.

Siberia

Wisteria is incredibly beautiful. It is not surprising that absolutely everyone wants to see her. But growing wisteria in Siberia is almost impossible. Even a variety like Blue Moon, capable of withstanding forty-degree frosts, bows to the environment. In addition to a mild and warm climate, wisteria needs a long growing season. It is he who is responsible for abundant and long-lasting flowering. The climate of Siberia cannot provide the necessary conditions. Even if you get creative and grow a vine, covering and protecting it from frost (providing good shelter for the winter), and carefully ensuring that the plant does not get wet, flowering will most likely not occur. If a miracle happens, the inflorescences will be weak and isolated.

Diseases and pests

In general, wisteria rarely gets sick or is attacked by pests.

• Its main enemies are aphids and clover mites.
• Aphids are eliminated using insecticides, and ticks are eliminated using acaricides.

If the soil is too alkaline, then wisteria may develop chlorosis, which is manifested by yellowing of the foliage.

Most questions about wisteria are related to the lack of flowering.

• Firstly, as already mentioned, wisteria begins to bloom only 3-4 years after planting, and Japanese wisteria - after 10.
• Damage to the roots, for example, as a result of transplants, also slows down flowering.
• In order for flowers to appear on young shoots, you need to trim them. Also, flowering will not occur if there is a lack of moisture.
• If you have met all the conditions and the wisteria still does not bloom, then most likely you have a plant obtained from seeds.

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Growing a wisteria seedling

Wisteria grows well in the south in open ground. In climates with harsh winters, the frost-resistant variety Blue Moon is grown in the garden.

First landing method

Growing a seedling occurs in two stages.

1. Growing in a deep flower pot - the plant needs support; as it grows, it is tied up, fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and watered well. By autumn, the vine reaches an average of 2 m in length; it should have 2-3 main trunks formed. Excess shoots are removed as soon as the seedling begins to grow. For the winter, the pot with the plant is brought into the cellar (+4 o C).
2. In spring, the seedling is planted in a sunny place protected from drafts.

The second method of growing from a seedling

1. The seedling is immediately planted in the prepared place, a support is installed, to which the vine is tied as it grows.
2. In autumn, wisteria is placed on boards to prevent it from getting wet and covered with a covering cloth.

Growing by layering and cuttings

The shoot is cut and pinned to the soil, watered. After the roots appear, the cuttings are replanted. The liana is easily propagated by cuttings; for this, a one-year-old shoot is cut into pieces 20 cm long. They are rooted in a moist substrate, and when leaves appear, they are planted in the ground.

Wisteria care and cultivation in the middle zone

Unlike the usual zone for wisteria, growth in the middle zone is problematic. Long and very cold winters make it possible to save only young shoots and rhizomes. Flowering also leaves much to be desired - adult plants bloom only at 6-8 years of age. And where the summer is cold and rainy, you need to try hard to see the buds.

For good development in the middle zone, you need to create growing conditions and care for wisteria that are close to ideal.

Choosing a landing site and soil

Wisteria is a very heat-loving plant, so it prefers sunny areas and walls of buildings facing south. Open areas are not recommended; it is better to plant the vine along a high fence or under the wall of a house.

Wisteria is not particularly demanding on soil. As a rule, it grows well on any soil, but black soil or rich loams are especially favorite. But a limestone or swampy substrate is completely unacceptable.

Planting and care features

The vine is planted in the ground at the beginning of June, having prepared a hole 60*60 cm in size and pre-digged with mineral fertilizers at the rate of 25-30 g per m2.

Like planting wisteria, care has its own subtleties:

1. After planting, the plant needs to be watered well.
2. You should wait for adaptation, which lasts about a month. After this, the vine will begin to grow and will need to install support.
3. In hot weather or during drought, watering should be periodic and sufficient.
4. It is acceptable to spray the vine in summer.
5. As the summer period approaches the end, watering is reduced.
6. Rotted manure with water (20:1) or mineral fertilizers (20 g dissolved in a bucket of water) are used as top dressing.
7. When the foliage falls, pruning should be done. It is also carried out in the spring during active growth.
8. Before the first frost, the vine is removed from its supports, laid on boards located on the ground and carefully covered with moss, and then with lutrasil. The root areas should be “covered” with soil. This procedure is especially important for young plants.

What is actinidia

Actinidia is a very unusual vine that can become a real decoration for your garden plot. It is also known to gardeners under the nicknames “northern grapes”, “kiwi”, “Amur gooseberries”, “Far Eastern raisins”. This plant is not only spectacular and decorative, but also very useful. It regularly produces a harvest of berries containing many vitamins, macro- and microelements vital for the body.

Actinidia in the garden looks very impressive

Actinidia is widely used in the garden. This vine has a powerful tree-like trunk, the shoots are literally dotted with large, beautifully shaped leaves. Gazebos and verandas entwined with it look very impressive. You can also disguise some unsightly structure or create a hedge

Even in winter, actinidia attracts attention - its intricately intertwined shoots look like the creation of a talented graphic artist

Spreading

There are many varieties of actinidia found in nature. Most of them are native to the Asian subtropics. But there is also Actinidia kolomikta, which is naturally distributed in northern China. It successfully survives not only in the European part of Russia, but also in regions with a harsher climate, rightly classified as “risky farming zones” - in Siberia, the Far East, and the Urals. The liana is frost-resistant; temperatures down to -45ºС do not harm it. The main danger for it is recurrent spring frosts, which are not something out of the ordinary in these areas. When the temperature drops to -2ºС, the leaves will suffer, but will quickly recover; at -4ºС, both they and the flowers will turn black and fall off; -8ºС is the critical minimum at which the shoots may not survive.

In general, actinidia is one of the most ancient plants that have survived to this day. Botanists claim that this liana existed on the planet at the same time as dinosaurs, but, unlike them, was able to survive the Ice Age. Accordingly, she has the ability to adapt to the most extreme conditions.

Description and characteristics

Actinidia belongs to the category of dioecious plants. If you plant it not only for decoration, but also counting on fruiting, you must have a “male” bush that will serve as a pollinator. Breeders have developed several new varieties positioned as self-fertile, but practice shows that they cannot rightfully be called such. “Male” plants are distinguished from “female” ones by their flowers. In the former, they have many stamens, but lack a pistil.

Flowers on “male” actinidia bushes lack a pistil

The vine sheds its leaves in winter. But before that they acquire a very bright shade - sunny yellow, crimson-crimson, blood-scarlet. The shape of the leaf plate resembles a slightly elongated heart. In most varieties it is dark green, but there are also varieties with the tip of the leaf colored white, pinkish or cream.

Bright multi-colored leaves only add decorativeness to actinidia

The flowering period is short (2–2.5 weeks), but it is very abundant. The snow-white or pastel pink flowers are small, but the opened buds emit an amazing aroma, similar to the smell of orange blossom or lily of the valley.

Blooming actinidia spreads an amazing aroma

Actinidia fruits are similar to very large gooseberries or small kiwi fruits. Their taste is very pleasant, sweet and sour, refreshing. The pulp contains more vitamin C than lemons and black currants. Its daily norm is only two fruits. It is best to eat the berries fresh, so experienced gardeners recommend letting them hang on the vine until the first frost - then the shelf life will increase significantly.

Actinidia fruits are very similar in shape to kiwi

Rodents, primarily mice, are not interested in actinidia shoots. They can only build a nest in the space between the roots. But on cats the plant has about the same intoxicating effect as valerian tincture. They do not eat leaves, but to get to the juice, they gnaw through the bases of shoots and roots.

Video: actinidia and cat

Actinidia is characterized by rapid growth and early fruiting. Over the course of a year, the shoots lengthen by an average of 1.5–2 m. The first fruits can be tasted 3–4 years after planting the seedling in the ground. The average yield is 5–10 kg of berries per adult plant.

Diseases and pests of wisteria

Wisteria can suffer from fungal infections caused by Aplosporella wistariae and Phomatospora wistariae:

• Excessive watering causes root rot to develop, causing the plant to wilt and may die.
• Also, tumors and abnormal sprouts appear on the roots or stems when infected with soil bacteria.
• Problems are easier to prevent: plant in a suitable area without dampness, loosen the soil after watering.
• Special fungicidal preparations help against diseases. The plant can also suffer from such a scourge as the underground clover mosaic virus and wisteria mosaic virus.

Dangerous pests include aphids, mealybugs, leaf rollers, Japanese beetles, and root nematodes. It is easy to get rid of the first trinity by treating with solutions prepared according to folk recipes: infusion of onion peels, wormwood, tobacco, tomato tops, etc.

As a result of the activity of nematodes, root gall nodes appear, so they must be removed quickly using special insecticides.

With Japanese beetles, also act immediately, since they gnaw holes in adult woody shoots, blocking the passage of moisture and nutrients.

Fertilizers for wisteria

To enhance flowering, you need to apply fertilizer every 7 days during the period of growing green mass, alternating mineral and organic agents. Watering the plant with chalk water once a season also has a good effect on the plant.

Sluggish inflorescences are removed so that they do not take away the plant’s strength. You also need to cut off the dried shoots, and direct the living ones to the right place and tie them to supports.

Before the arrival of cold weather, the rosette of the plant is hilled up, the vines are placed on the ground next to the base of the wisteria and covered with foliage, and then insulated with lutrasil.

If you are sure that the winter will be snowy, then there is no need for all these preparations, but in the absence of snow there is a high probability of the plant dying.

Care in different climate zones

For the plant to bloom profusely, a 12-hour period is needed.

daylight, otherwise the flowering will be less abundant and the color will not be as rich. During the formation of buds, fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers is increased. At this time it is carried out every 3 days. This procedure will allow you to obtain inflorescences of a more saturated color.

To form a beautiful crown, 2 prunings are performed per season. The first pruning is done in the spring, the second in the fall, before wintering.

In regions where the temperature in the winter months does not fall below 20 degrees, the plant can overwinter in open ground. These include: Ukraine, Belarus, southern Russia. In these regions, the climate is relatively mild and winters are not so severe, so the plant overwinters well in open ground, especially if you choose cold-resistant varieties.

In climate zones with colder winters, the wisteria along with the container is transferred to a heated room, where the temperature is maintained no higher than 10 degrees. In such conditions, the plant is perfectly preserved and delights with abundant flowering in the spring.

Choosing a place to grow wisteria

Wisteria is a perennial plant. Therefore, choose a place for her carefully - she will stay on the site for at least 3 years.

Wisteria loves the sun. Place it in a place that will be illuminated for at least half a day. If there is a lack of rays, the vines will not produce lush flowering. Plantings must be protected from winds. Despite the fact that wisteria vines are quite strong, drafts will negatively affect the development of shoots. The best place to grow the plant is the south, southwest or southeast side of the site.

Pay attention to the soil where the wisteria will be planted. The plant prefers light, fertile, well-drained soil.

It will not tolerate calcareous soils - the leaves on the shoots will lighten and lose their decorative effect. Before planting wisteria, prepare a hole measuring 60*60*50 cm. Cover the seedling with a nutritious substrate consisting of humus, peat, sand and turf soil (1:1:1:3).

Reproduction methods

The most commonly used and effective way to grow wisteria is to purchase young seedlings from agricultural companies that professionally breed these plants. In this case, landing will not be difficult. Nutrient soil, fertilizers and humus are poured into a container or hole 20 cm deep. Then the plant is planted.

Water wisteria daily. It’s good if it is possible to mulch the soil with last year’s fallen leaves or mowed grass. In this case, the soil will not overheat and dry out. This will allow the plant to take root well .

Propagation of wisteria by cuttings taken from an adult plant is a more complex method of propagation. To do this, cut cuttings 20-25 cm long from shoots that are at least a year old. After treatment with a growth stimulator, they are buried to a depth of 5-7 cm in soil consisting of humus, turf soil and sand. After 40-45 days, the plant with a developed root system is replanted.

If a gardener decides to grow wisteria from seeds, he will need a lot of patience, since it grows very slowly, especially in the first years. Seeds are sown in early February. In order for the seeds to germinate, they need high humidity and a temperature of about 30 degrees. In addition, there should be complete darkness during seed germination. To do this, cover the container with the planted seeds with black polyethylene and place it in a warm place. After a month, the first shoots begin to appear .

When the plants have 4 true leaves, they are planted in pots with a volume of more than 500 ml. Light soil with mandatory drainage to allow excess moisture to escape will allow the vine to grow well in the vegetative mass.

During growth, you need to constantly monitor humidity and temperature. Feed the flower with complex mineral fertilizer every week.

Further care consists of creating favorable conditions for its growth and development..

What diseases and pests must be combated when growing wisteria?

Wisteria is quite resistant to diseases and pests - many “misfortunes” bypass the plant. If the vines bloom sparsely or the leaves are limp, it is the grower’s fault - it means that the plant is not provided with proper care.

Among the wisteria diseases that gardeners often struggle with are:

• Chlorosis. The disease manifests itself as yellowing and falling leaves. It is often formed due to calcareous and clayey soils - this soil composition is unacceptable for wisteria. In this case, you cannot do without additional feeding of the plant - fertilizers with iron salts. It also doesn’t hurt to add sand to the tree trunk circles.

• Powdery mildew. A common disease that affects many flowering plants. It is formed mainly at high humidity and high air temperature. You will immediately notice powdery mildew - a whitish coating (fungal mycelium) forms on the leaves and shoots. The danger is that the fungus can easily survive the winter along with the wisteria. In order to prevent the appearance of the disease on the leaves of the plant, do not allow the vines to become excessively thick and do not apply large amounts of nitrogen fertilizers. Fungicides show good results in the fight against powdery mildew. If in the spring, after removing the cover from the wisteria, you notice shoots damaged by powdery mildew, either remove them completely or cut out the infected areas. Burn the cut vines.

• Renal blast. This disease, which is dangerous for wisteria, is transmitted by leafhoppers. The infection is noticeable immediately - the buds on the shoots seem to be covered with black mold, and their flowering is ruined. Affected branches need to be cut off and destroyed - renal blast cannot be defeated in any other way. Closer to autumn, spray wisteria with an insecticide to combat the pathogen.

Among the pests, we note several representatives of insects:

• Green aphids. Bugs appear, as a rule, at the very height of the growing season - the vines become distorted, and sticky “honey” dew appears on the inflorescences and leaves. To prevent aphids from eating the entire plant, treat it with insecticides. The first time you are unlikely to rid the wisteria of the invasion of insect pests - you will need to spray it again with chemicals after 8-12 days.

Clover mite

• Clover mite. This insect causes irreparable damage to wisteria. You will know about its appearance by the uncharacteristic bronze color of the foliage. The bugs will disappear after 2 treatments of the plant with insecticides. Experienced gardeners also use folk recipes to combat clover mites - spraying with garlic infusion, for example.

You won’t have to fight diseases and insect pests all season – wisteria rarely suffers from them if you surround the beauty with care.

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Preparing seeds for cultivation

A deep pot is suitable for germination. The beans are buried 2 cm into the ground and filled with water. It is better to take a mixture of soil with a small amount of sand for germination. The container with beans should be placed in the shade. Some gardeners cover the pot with a piece of glass to retain heat.

When sprouts appear, the pot can be moved to light (but not to open sun). When the seedlings form the first pair of leaves, they can be planted in different pots. Small seedlings should not be planted directly into the soil. The plant must reach at least 20 cm in length.

Ural and Moscow region

Wisteria does not tolerate temperature drops of more than 20 degrees. Therefore, growing and caring for wisteria in the Moscow region is extremely difficult. There are special requirements for the safety of vines in winter. The plant overwinters best when grown in containers.

It should be taken into account that the “house” for the vine does not need to be small - at least 40 liters. Plastic fonts, tubs, and garden barrels are used.

Growing wisteria in the Urals is similar. Yes, you will have to work hard, but the result will surprise you.

With the arrival of autumn, before the first snow falls, the vine in a container is sent to spend the winter in a warm room where a minimum of six-hour lighting can be provided. In this case, the plant should be watered once a week. Feeding is excluded.