Maiden grapes - propagation by cuttings in autumn

• July 7, 2019
• Trees and shrubs
• Anastasia Alvarez

For gardeners and summer residents who want to screen part of their plot or home from prying eyes, planting wild grapes would be an excellent solution. An unpretentious plant will become a picturesque decoration for a long period, but does not require special conditions. The article will help you understand how to care for and plant wild grapes.

Getting to know the plant

Wild grapes, the second name of which is “girlish”, is a winter-hardy deciduous plant from the Grape family. Since its berries are not edible, it has found decorative use. Its vines grow extremely easily and climb vertical supports, forming hedges.

A feature of the “maiden” grapes is the change in leaf color depending on the intensity of light and the season. In summer, its branches have dark green pointed leaves, and closer to autumn the colors change to crimson-red. Dark blue fruits complete the picture. A photo of wild grapes on a fence is shown below.

The popularity of the plant among summer residents is explained by its following advantages:

• undemanding to plot size, soil type and watering;
• high frost resistance;
• ease of reproduction;
• almost complete invulnerability to pests and diseases;
• good growth and development in both well-lit and dark places;
• rapidly growing vines provide a dense canopy.

Planting and care

Selecting a location

Wild grapes are quite picky, they do not need to be watered often and do not require a lot of fertilizer.
Moreover, it is able to grow even in the shade. But still, it is better to choose a place for planting with a sufficient amount of sunlight - this will enhance the growth of the plant and the leaves will be larger. If planting will be carried out in weedy or rocky areas, then you need to prepare a planting hole about 50 cm deep and wide, then fill it with fertile soil mixed with humus. This filling will be enough for good intensive growth. Although wild grapes have a large bush, the planting itself can be carried out in places that are completely unsuitable for other plants. The main thing to remember is that the rapid growth of a vine requires strong support so that the plant does not have any problems climbing to the top, so you need to think about this issue before planting.

How to plant wild grapes correctly

Planting a plant is a simple matter; the main thing is to follow a few rules.

Immediately before planting wild grapes, the hole is half filled with a soil mixture - fertile soil with humus. Then the plant itself lies down. If the soil is fertile and loose, you only need to prepare a hole where the roots will be freely distributed. The hole is filled with earth and watered with water.

At least one bucket of water is required for the first watering

It is important to check that the place of the seedling, where growth used to take place, is at ground level. If the vine turns out to be too deep, it will subsequently take a lot of effort and time to fight the active chaotic growth

If the soil along with the bush sank after watering, you need to pull the plant up a little, holding it by the base of the trunk near the ground

Then add more soil and water again. It should be borne in mind that planting a plant more than two years old is not recommended, since as a result the entire branching process is disrupted, and additional pruning will be required in order to properly form the bush.

Caring for wild grapes

Wild grapes are unpretentious. Removing weeds and loosening the soil from time to time is all that is required for maintenance. There is no need to water frequently. It is enough to water 3-4 times a season with 9-10 liters of water per bush.

Liana is a climbing plant, so it requires good support. The tendrils of grapes have an excellent ability to cling to the slightest uneven surface, so if the plant is planted near a fence or other structure, then no additional support is required. In addition, wild grapes on the fence look impressive.

Care at different times of the year

• Spring: In spring, grapes need to be cared for most responsibly. The subsequent development of the plant depends on the quality of work. When the snow melts, the plant needs to be inspected. Frozen, broken, or diseased branches are removed. Next, the old shoots are pruned to give the bush a more attractive appearance. It is recommended to cut out about 80% of old branches, as well as young shoots from the previous year. Liana branches - perennial branches through which food passes - live for about 4-6 years. There is no need to touch them, they are the basis of the bush.
• Summer: Caring for grapes in the summer requires less effort, since this plant is decorative. Excess shoots growing from the same eye must be removed. Otherwise, they will spoil the entire harmony of the bush. The main shoots need to be tied up, and all weak and lagging branches must be removed. In June, the plant needs to be watered periodically, the soil should be loosened, and excessively overgrown weeds should be removed. All unnecessary greenery is also removed.
• Autumn: All experienced gardeners know that how carefully you prepare a plant for winter will determine its survival. First of all, you need to create comfortable conditions for both the buds and the vine so that they successfully survive the winter. Good watering will help the grapes survive harsh conditions. How often to water the bush depends on weather conditions. In general, in October you need to properly moisten the soil at least once. To maintain moisture, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil. In most cases, there is no need to additionally insulate grapes, since they tolerate frost well without significant harm to themselves. But in central Russia, where winters are especially harsh and long, you can build a reliable shelter over the bush that will help preserve the roots of the plant.

Selecting a location

The natural unpretentiousness of grapes makes the choice of planting location unimportant. This fast-growing vine will grow in any area allocated to it. An important point: you need to consider that the color of the leaves depends on the lighting.

In bright sun, “girlish” grapes acquire a beautiful orange or purple color or other shades of red. In a shaded place, its leaves can remain bright green until frost occurs. But still, experienced gardeners advise giving preference to the sunny sides of the site, which will to some extent accelerate the growth of vines and color their leaves in stunning colors.

Choosing a place

When choosing a place to plant virgin grapes, you need to take into account some conditions:

• It should not be planted near drainage holes or drainage holes; heavy autumn leaf fall can completely block the outflow of water.
• Those who dream of decorating a wall with a vine should know that the plaster may not support the weight of the branches, and there is a risk that it will collapse over time.
• The optimal place is the design of buildings or fences. Walls made of wood under thick foliage do not deteriorate; concrete and brick surfaces feel good under it.
• You need to make sure that the branches do not spread across the roof; slate is not always able to withstand such a load.
• Grapes love the sun's rays; they are usually planted in illuminated areas; if such conditions cannot be created for them, they will feel good in the shade. But the color of the leaves will be affected by a decrease in the level of illumination; we cannot wait for the autumn riot of colors; the foliage will remain green until frost. On the sunny side the leaves will be larger and the bush will develop better.
• Lianas do not like cold winds and drafts; they will grow poorly and may wither, so you need to choose protected areas.

The plant can also be planted on loggias and balconies, but it needs to be watered there more often.

At first, the bush will grow green mass slowly; it spends energy on the development of roots; during this period, high-quality care is important.

Grapes grow most beautifully on the sunny side

Soil Features

Caring for and planting wild grapes is so simple that any cultivated soil is suitable for this purpose. The plant has the ability to take root even under the most unfavorable conditions. But the best growth and development of vines should still be expected on fertile soil that is well permeable to moisture.

If the soil is not cultivated, the excavated planting holes should be prepared. To do this, a drainage layer about 15 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the holes, and a fertile mixture consisting of humus, soil and sand is sprinkled on top.

Caring for wild vines throughout the year

In the spring, the grapes are pruned, frozen and weak vines are removed. Before the start of the growing season, the first feeding is carried out, in the middle of summer - the second. As fertilizer you can use Kemira Universal, aquamarine or nitroammophoska.

In hot weather, the hedge needs watering - pour a bucket of water on each bush weekly. Get rid of weeds, loosen the soil, and cover exposed roots with soil. Monitor the growth of the stems: adjust the tendrils, tie up the vines. Over time, the load on the support will increase - you will have to adjust the weight of the vineyard, removing all that is unnecessary.

A decorative vineyard needs protection from frost no less than usual. Constantly care for the plantings, monitor their growth and condition, follow basic agrotechnical recommendations. With the right approach, you will become the owner of a luxurious hedge.

Need for support

The wild grape vine grows quickly and is capable of weaving around any surface, be it a fence or almost smooth walls. The plant itself does not need special support, but it will definitely be needed when in a few years the grapes become an unbearable green carpet.

Therefore, a strong support should be prepared in advance. In an open area, a fence made of metal mesh will serve this role well. And it is preferable to use trellises near the walls of the house. During the first year, it is recommended to direct the shoots of young grapes in the desired direction, securing them to a support.

Rules of care

Young plantings need weed removal and regular watering. Try to keep the soil moist to promote root and above-ground growth. 4–5 liters are poured onto each bush, 2–3 times a week.

Mature plantings do not need watering. To maintain a decorative appearance, the following techniques are used:

1. In the spring, the grapes are inspected. Dried branches and those extending beyond the contour of the fence are removed.
2. To enhance growth, 2 tbsp of urea is added in May. l. per sq./meter In the summer, nitroammophoska is given in the same proportions.
3. During the period of active growth, a shaping haircut is carried out.

Rules for growing wild grapes can be seen in the video

Care after landing

In the second year after planting wild grapes, caring for them consists of pruning and feeding. The plant is capable of reproducing by self-sowing, which forces the grapes to be trimmed in a timely manner. These simple manipulations will rid the surrounding areas of young growth and a mess of berries that risks forming during their ripening.

Only new plants need fertilizing and additional watering. Adult grapes grow well without these actions. What will really have a positive effect on the development of the vines is covering the trunk circle with a layer of humus, peat or hay, about 5 cm thick. This will allow the soil to always remain cool and moist.

After planting wild grapes, caring for them in winter requires reliable shelter. The procedure allows you to keep the root system of the plant intact, but it may not help young shoots. But this does not have negative consequences on the further growth of the vine.

Features of liana care

During the first year of growing season, virgin grapes need regular and abundant watering. In subsequent seasons, care consists of mandatory adjustments to the growth and direction of the shoots. They must be tied to supports in a timely manner, preventing the vine from showing aggression and uncontrollably taking over the garden area not allocated for it.

Maiden grapes beautifully twine around gazebos and balconies, cover fences, shade alleys, and decorate gates.

In the fall, the bushes are covered with a layer of earth, and in the spring they are pruned. In the summer, they take care of them as much as possible - tie them up, spray them against pests and diseases, and cultivate the soil. Bushes are not prone to freezing under snow cover and do not require the construction of special shelters, but in cases of sudden temperature changes with possible icing of the root system, many gardeners use non-woven covering materials and organic mulch.

To speed up the “draping” of a fence or wall, it is advisable to feed the plant. Experts advise alternating mineral fertilizers with organic ones. They improve the soil structure and provide the vine with necessary nutrients. Minerals (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) - well compensate for their deficiency. Compared to other species, this grape adapts well to lack of moisture in the soil; in most cases it is grown without artificial irrigation. Despite the low susceptibility of the “maiden” to diseases and pests, preventive treatments should be carried out periodically. This unique vine not only grows well with minimal care, but also survives brilliantly in large cities, with high air pollution and soil pollution. In addition, it is a well-known long-liver, which greatly increases the value of the plant in landscape design.

Forming a hedge

The growth rate of “maiden” grapes is amazing and reaches from 2 to 4 m in one year. The vigor of shoot growth is constantly increasing. For this reason, plant formation should be started the next year after planting. Otherwise, the gardener risks getting a shapeless green mass.

The main purpose of pruning is to prevent unwanted vine growth. The initial task is to train the vine to grow like a fan. To carry it out, you should throw the main lashes along the support in the form of rays, distributing them in such a way that they cover the entire surface allocated for the idea.

Further formation of the hedge consists of simple steps:

• Young shoots are secured to a support as they develop.
• Shoots that grow to the sides must be removed.
• The growth of grapes is monitored and the spreading of vines on the ground is prevented, since the plant is able to take root and take over the surrounding area.
• Sanitary pruning is done in the summer, and shaping must be done in the spring, when the grapes have not yet woken up.

Sanitary pruning refers to the removal of damaged, diseased or unnecessary branches. After the procedure, the gardener should be prepared for the fact that the plant will soon send out shoots with renewed vigor.

Where, when and how to plant?

Wild grapes develop well both in the shade and in the sun. In a shaded place, the bush will grow more slowly, and the foliage will not change color in the fall. In a well-lit area, grapes grow intensively; as the season changes, the leaves become bright red, orange, burgundy, and purple. For aesthetics and variety, it is recommended to combine two or three types of virgin grapes and plant them in places in the garden that differ in light levels.

You can plant the plant in an open area, but be sure to provide strong supports along which the vines will climb. The most acceptable option is near a fence or building. In order not to be afraid for the safety of the foundation, plant the bushes at a distance of 2-3 meters from the wall, and place supports up to the house, as for ordinary table grapes.

If there are too dark or rocky places in the garden where nothing but nettles want to grow, plant wild grapes there without supports. This is a ground cover plant and within a few years you will have a dense, beautiful carpet in that place.

The powerful roots of grapes can be aggressive to nearby growing plants, so gardeners do not recommend planting them near fruit bushes and trees, as well as near the vegetable garden.

It is recommended to plant seedlings up to two years old in a permanent place. Plants 3 years old and older with long vines (over three meters) are difficult to separate from the previous support without damaging them.

Planting wild grape seedlings

The selected place is cleaned and dug up. A 15 cm deepening is made. Crushed stone or expanded clay is poured into the bottom of the hole, acting as drainage. To feed the young plant, add peat, humus or garden compost to the hole. The seedling is buried down to 1-2 dormant buds (if it is a cutting) or to the root collar, and buried. The plant is watered with 8-10 liters of water. Monitor the rate of growth and development of leaves.

The distance between plants when planting is on average 1-2 meters. The soil around the bush can and should be mulched with leaf litter, straw or tree bark. This will add a decorative effect, protect the soil from drying out quickly, and also kill weeds.

What to do if the height of the fence is much smaller than the plant vines? A traditional fence has a height of 1.5-2 meters. Maiden grapes can grow up to 30 meters. In this case, you need to regularly trim the vines and form fence bushes. Alternatively, the lashes can freely fall from the fence, trail along the ground and take root there. This creates a living fence in the form of a wave.

Reproduction

How to propagate wild grapes? Cuttings are the easiest option. You can get planting material yourself in the forest belt and within the city, or ask your neighbors. Woody cuttings root best.

For planting you will need twigs with 3-5 healthy green buds. The choice should be made on a pencil-thin vine. The plant should be divided into segments of 20-30 cm with the required number of buds.

The prepared cuttings are placed in holes 8-10 cm deep and dug in so that 2 buds are underground and the rest are above it. The distance between plants should be 1.5 m. After planting, they must be watered. During the dry period, young grapes must be watered until active growth and development are noticeable. If the sun is too bright, it is recommended to build a shade over the planted cuttings.

Varieties of wild grapes for planting on the site

Originators from England, where this plant is highly revered, work every year to develop new varieties of wild grapes. But the most common are the ancient varieties brought to the continent from the coast of North America and Japan.

Thomson

An American variety that grows up to 3.5 m in length. It can withstand frosts without shelter down to -35 degrees. Last year's stems have gray-yellow bark, while young ones have green bark. After the first frost, the plant's usual green, palmate, oval-shaped foliage takes on a light plum color. For good growth of the vine you will need vertical support.

Amur breakthrough

The most frost-resistant variety comes from Eastern Russia, withstanding temperatures down to -50 degrees without shelter. After its discovery by botanists about 60 years ago, he became the founder of the breeding of new varieties and hybrids of wild grapes. It has rich green leaves that turn orange-red from mid-September. By the beginning of autumn, clusters of black and purple small berries ripen on the bush, which look like an unusual beautiful decoration.

Virginia

A powerful shrub, reaching a height of up to 40 meters thanks to its adventitious roots with an adhesive substance. It is distinguished by active growth of shoots and frost resistance without additional shelter down to -35 degrees. During one season, the stepsons grow by 3m-4m. The foliage of the grape resembles chestnut leaves and has a pointed oblong shape. During the summer months, the vine-like shrub presents a tall, bright green wall that turns a cherry red color by mid-September. Grows well in both sunny and shaded areas.

Henry

A miniature variety of wild grapes, reaching a height of only 2m-2.5 m. Without shelter, it can withstand frosts down to -20 degrees, so it is often grown as a container or potted crop. Plants planted in pots grow well on balconies; when frost sets in, they are brought indoors. It has decorative rounded palmate foliage of light green color with whitish veins, which turns purple in autumn.

Star Showers

An ornamental variety that is frost-resistant down to -28 degrees. It grows up to 20 meters in height, clinging to supports with adventitious roots on the stem. It has small light green leaves with white speckles of various shapes and sizes. After prolonged frosts, the foliage changes color to lilac-red. Thanks to its unique natural veiling it looks very impressive.

Wiche

A powerful liana-like shrub, the size of which reaches 25 meters in height. Withstands frosts without additional shelter down to -38 degrees. The variety has bright green, shiny, dense leaves that turn yellow-orange in mid-September. After the first frost, Wiche's yellow foliage turns a purplish-purple hue.

Parthenocissus pilosa

Grapes that are not characterized by increased winter hardiness and can withstand frosts without additional shelter down to -20 degrees. It grows naturally in Japan and the southwest of Primorsky Krai. A liana that retains its decorative value throughout the season. It has dense, shiny, three-lobed leaves with soft edges of bright green color. At the beginning of autumn, the foliage turns orange-red.

Important!

When growing wild grapes, it is not recommended to use wooden supports. Indeed, in humid conditions, the tree will quickly rot, break and injure the plant.

Reproduction by root suckers

Another very simple way to propagate a plant is by planting rooted shoots. It happens that a gardener fails to keep track of the spreading of wild grapes. In this case, vines crawling along the ground can take root on their own.

How to plant wild grapes using root suckers? To do this, shoots with roots are simply dug up and planted in the desired location. The distance between plantings should be within 1 m. Young plants should be immediately watered abundantly.

Propagation by seeds

It is advisable to plant seeds in loose, fertile soil. The most suitable time for the procedure is spring and autumn. This method of propagating “maiden” grapes is considered the most troublesome.

If you plan to plant seeds in the spring, they should be hardened. The planting material is placed in cold water for 1.5 hours, after which it is wrapped in cotton cloth and left in the refrigerator for another 6-7 days. Seeds should be planted in small holes 1 cm deep.

Planting methods

The crop is planted in several ways; each gardener chooses the most applicable option for himself:

Cuttings

The method for propagation is the most successful, the cuttings take root quickly, and after winter they begin to actively develop. Seedlings for planting can be taken from neighbors or cut yourself, to plant in the soil, it is prepared:

• for this, in the summer, a long, woody shoot is selected, divided into several parts about 30 cm long, with 4 mature buds;
• they are placed in a bowl with water until the roots appear;
• the water should cover 2 buds, a root system will form on them, and the bush itself will develop from the upper buds;
• when the roots appear, the shoots can be planted in the ground;
• after planting, the cuttings are thoroughly moistened and covered with light material so that the sun’s rays do not dry it out;
• it is necessary to constantly moisten the soil.

In the spring, the rooted seedling will quickly grow.

Cuttings with roots can already be planted in the ground

By shoots

The method is quite productive and almost 100% leads to a positive result. Its convenience lies in the fact that it allows the process to be carried out when the owner is not able to be on the garden plot every day:

• make a hole in the ground no more than 5 cm, water well;
• select two or three-year-old branches from the bush, bend them to the ground and secure them in this position with strong wire;
• the place where the vine comes into contact with the soil is covered with earth;
• you need to ensure that the soil remains moist at all times;
• roots will soon appear in this place;
• in the fall, the branch is cut off from the main bush, divided into cuttings, each one is carefully dug up and transplanted to a permanent place.

There is another equally successful option for planting by layering. To do this, cut off a long shoot, somewhere from one and a half meters, you can take a three-meter vine, also make a depression and fill it with water.

The branch is planted in the ground in a wave-like manner, like a sinusoid: the parts where the buds are located are deepened into the ground and pinched with a pin, the remaining segments remain above the surface. In this case, branchy young shoots appear. The cuttings are divided into cuttings and planted.

Cuttings with roots are cut off from the main branch and planted in new places

Seeds

Growing virgin grapes from seeds is not a popular propagation method; this process is labor-intensive, and seed germination takes a long time. But you shouldn’t completely exclude it; it has a right to exist, it is irreplaceable when it is impossible to obtain a shoot of the desired variety.

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Seeds are harvested at the end of summer, selected from ripe berries; they remain viable for no more than a year. Seeds take a very long time to germinate, at least a month; for spring planting they must be stratified. In the fall, they are simply placed in prepared soil, in holes 1 cm deep. Shoots will appear next spring, over the summer they will get stronger and turn into a small bush.

When planting virgin grapes in a permanent place, the distance should be maintained at least 100 cm.

Planting virgin grapes with seeds is a long and troublesome task.

Reproduction by layering

Forming layering is quite simple. To do this, you need to dig the vine to a shallow depth in the places where the green buds are located. In this position, the plant is secured with available materials.

It is advisable to regularly water buried grapes. After just a few waterings, young roots will begin to appear from the bud locations and gradually the plant will be ready to form a living fence.

How to replant wild grapes

How to replant wild grapes if such a need arises? It should be understood that the older the plant, the more difficult it is to implement the plan. And although there are cases of successful replanting of bushes aged 5 or more years, the task is complicated by the length of the vines of mature grapes. Plants aged 1-2 years are considered more suitable specimens.

The size of the hole into which the transplant is planned should be approximately equal to the size of the root system of the bush, and the depth should be slightly greater. Crushed ceramic tiles, broken bricks or other material that acts as drainage are placed at the bottom. The size of this layer is about 15 cm.

After drainage, pour 20 cm of sand. Next, the hole must be half filled with a fertile mixture of humus, sand and earth in a ratio of 2:1:2. The resulting soil should settle and compact, which will take about 2 weeks.

By that time, the bush itself is prepared for transplantation. The grape vines are pruned, shortening them enough to make it convenient to move the plant. The bush is dug up with roots and a lump of earth, after which the grapes are placed in a hole and sprinkled with soil mixture. The root collar should be left at ground level. The transplanted bush is watered abundantly. If necessary, you can add and compact the soil mixture.

How to propagate virgin grapes?

There are several ways to grow maiden grapes on a plot or balcony. It is easier to do this vegetatively, using cuttings, root layering or side shoots. A longer, although also practiced, option is to sow the seeds of the plant.

Let's take a closer look at each of the mentioned methods.

Cuttings

Cuttings are a common and simple way to make a hedge from maiden grapes. In terms of speed and reliability, it is inferior to plant propagation by lateral and root layering, however, to use these two methods, it is necessary that there is already a ready-made mother plant on the site, the vital forces of which can be used to root the layering.

It is easier to obtain cuttings when pruning the vine, since at this moment many extra vines are removed from the plant.

For rooting, it is recommended to use not young, but already woody fragments - their viability is higher.

For rooting, a cane freshly cut from the mother bush must be inspected and one or more sections with a thickness of at least 5 mm with 4–5 internodes must be selected. The cut should be made at a distance of 3 cm from the lower bud.

Ready cuttings can be placed in water until they take root, although many gardeners skip this stage and plant the shoots in the ground immediately after pruning.

Important! The roots that a plant takes up in water die off after planting in the ground and are replaced by new ones, so keeping the cuttings in water does not make sense. The only reason why you can resort to such a procedure is the physical impossibility of planting the shoot in the ground immediately after pruning.

When planting a cutting in the ground, two buds should be underground, the rest should remain on the surface. When caring for cuttings at the rooting stage, two conditions must be observed - protect young plants from too bright sun and provide them with regular watering.

Experienced gardeners recommend cutting parthenocissus in the fall, since during this period young shoots take root better. The second possible option is early autumn, before the period of active sap flow begins (in the latter case, the young shoot receives less trauma during its separation from the mother bush and, accordingly, is not so much at risk of infection).

If you want to root cuttings in the summer, it is necessary to use thicker plant fragments, which already have their own lateral layers, as planting material. Such cuttings are called hammer-shaped. The advantage of this method is that rooted cuttings immediately produce a fast-growing and branched bush.

Video: Propagation of virgin grapes by cuttings

Root layering

Propagation of wild grapes by root layering is even simpler than cuttings. This method is used when, due to untimely pruning or lack of suitable support, individual vine stems have been able to creep along the ground. Such shoots are attached to the soil not with the help of tendrils, which the plant uses to stay on the support, but with real roots released from the internodes.

Did you know? The world's longest vine is the tropical rattan palm. With a length of up to three hundred meters, this climbing plant has a trunk whose thickness does not exceed 7 cm.

Thus, each bud of a vine creeping along the ground, in contact with the soil, after some time forms an independent plant, which can develop separately from the mother bush. The gardener only needs to separate such a seedling from the beginning and end of the vine with two cuts, then dig it out of the ground along with the roots and transplant it to a new place, making sure that the root collar remains above the ground.

Side shoots

In order to propagate maiden ivy by lateral shoots, you need to artificially create a situation with the formation of root layers. At the same time, if there is such a possibility, you should initially lay out the cane in such a way that rooting takes place in those places where you plan to plant new plants (for example, stretch a long shoot along a fence or wall that you want to cover with a vine).

Find out more about the five-leaf maiden grape.

If necessary, in places where rooting is expected, the whip can be attached to the ground with pins (they can be made from electrodes, rigid wire or wooden rods) and sprinkled with soil, although parthenocissus will quickly begin to take root without additional help.

If you stretch the vine in such a way that it takes root in the right place, there is no possibility; the side shoots can be safely separated from the mother bush and replanted next year.

Seeds

The seed method of propagating wild grapes is rarely used, since it has many disadvantages compared to vegetative methods.

In particular, sowing seeds:

• is a troublesome process, which cannot be said about rooting cuttings, layering and side shoots;
• allows you to get an adult plant in a longer term;
• does not guarantee the preservation of parental characteristics in the new vine, which should be taken into account when propagating hybrid forms of parthenocissus.

Important! The ability of wild grapes to germinate and take root easily extends to its seeds. Since they have excellent germination, it is necessary to ensure that the fruits of the parthenocissus do not fall to the ground and do not remain lying on it until spring, otherwise next year they will turn the area into an impenetrable jungle.

Seed propagation of maiden ivy technologically looks like this:

1. Fully ripened fruits are removed from the bush.
2. The berry is opened and the seeds are removed from it.
3. Planting seeds is possible in two ways: immediately after collection or next spring. In the first case, germination takes a little longer; usually the first shoots appear only in June. To speed up the process, spring sowing with preliminary stratification is used (this term refers to a specially simulated overwintering of seeds in the soil): approximately two weeks before the expected sowing date, the seeds are soaked in cool water for several hours, wrapped in several layers of damp gauze wrapped in polyethylene, and placed in the vegetable section of the refrigerator. Instead of gauze, you can use well-moistened sand or peat.
4. Seeds are sown both in open ground and in seedling containers. Depending on the chosen method, the spring planting period can range from February to April.
5. Bury the seeds into the soil to a depth of 10 mm.
6. During the germination stage, make sure that the soil does not dry out, and also protect young shoots from direct sunlight.

If stratification is carried out, seedlings appear 3–4 weeks after planting.

Diseases and pests

"Girl" grapes are extremely disease resistant and are not of interest to insects. However, the appearance of rot on the leaves indicates improper care. In this case, it is necessary to stop watering and get rid of diseased shoots and leaves. After this, the plant is treated with a fungicide solution.

Caring for and planting wild grapes, the photo of which can be seen above, is not difficult even for a novice gardener. Among other things, the plant copes well with the ground cover function. With its help, it is possible to improve even the most complex landscape, be it a darkened place, an open dry area or a rocky slope.

Soil for planting

Maiden grapes are an unpretentious plant; they thrive on a variety of soil types, but they prefer cultivated areas. In order for the bush to be healthy and actively develop, it is necessary to create acceptable conditions for it: provide care, and the soil must be properly prepared. They start this in advance; it is necessary for the soil to become sufficiently compacted, to acquire the necessary moisture, and for certain processes to occur in it:

• To do this, weeds are removed and the ground is thoroughly dug up;
• a soil mixture is prepared from turf and compost to improve water permeability and aeration of the roots; river sand is added to the soil if necessary;
• the proportion scheme is observed in the ratio 2x2x1;
• if propagation by cuttings is intended on heavy loams or chernozems, after digging holes it is necessary to make high-quality drainage of at least 20 cm, the bottom of the hole is covered with crushed stone, expanded clay, broken brick, this is necessary to prevent moisture accumulation:
• if the site has sandy soil, this is an excellent option for virgin grapes, its light structure does not interfere with the full respiration of the roots and supplies them with sufficient oxygen;
• but it needs more careful care: there is not enough humus in it, nutrients and moisture are poorly retained, so such lands require more organic matter.
• in this case, mineral supplements and superphosphate are necessary.

Sandy soil is the best option for virgin grapes