Gladioli do not bloom: reasons. Why they don’t release arrows and what to do if they didn’t have time to bloom in the first year

Weed strawberries instead of garden ones

Or maybe you grew strawberries by seed?
In this case, no one guarantees that from the purchased seeds you will grow garden strawberries and not weed ones. The same situation can happen with seedlings purchased from unverified sellers. Under the guise of pineapple strawberries, they could very well sell you an ordinary “wild” strawberry that does not bear fruit, but grows quickly and takes over nearby “territories” allocated for beds with other crops.

In general, strawberry seeds are intended for breeding work, but not for quick harvest. It is advisable to propagate it with a mustache or buy seedlings. However, it is also possible to grow this crop from seeds. We have already told you how to do this in 4 steps.

What to do?

If the strawberry has taken root well, but has not bloomed (or has bloomed, but bears very small fruits) for two or even three seasons in a row, feel free to dig it up before it clogs the entire garden.

Why doesn't gladiolus bloom?

You planted gladioli bulbs, and you hope to get lush, beautiful flowers, and now a lot of leaves grow from the bulbs, but there is no talk of flowers - there are no peduncles, no flowers. What is the reason?

Gladioli do not bloom for various reasons, one of them is low-quality bulbs or planting material. Sometimes flower shops sell small or old bulbs inexpensively - they either have not yet gained the strength necessary for flowering, or have already exhausted their resources and are unlikely to ever bloom. Young and mature bulbs should not be planted together. Adults and mature ones have more strength, they will grow faster in the area and begin to oppress the young ones. The bulbs should be sorted and planted in different areas. In order for gladioli to bloom, they need to be planted at the correct depth. On light soil it should be equal to four diameters of the bulb, on heavy soil - three diameters. The soil temperature during planting should be no lower than +7 degrees. Among the variety of varieties, and there are really a lot of them and making the right choice is not so easy, find those that are designed specifically for your climate, that is, adapted, acclimatized varieties. Thus, late or medium varieties simply do not have time to gain strength and bloom in the short and cold summer. Nowadays, they mainly offer bulbs of Dutch gladioli; gardeners like them, but not everyone knows that some of these varieties do not bloom every year

So, they can bloom magnificently once every 2-3 years, and the rest of the time they can rest and accumulate strength for future flowering. It is important to find the right place for gladioli. These are not the most capricious and demanding plants, however, they love light, and if you plant them in the shade, you may not wait for flowering

In a shaded place, flowers of any variety form peduncles a little later than in the sun. Flowers also feel bad when there is a lack of fresh air; in such conditions they are attacked by fungal diseases; if all the strength of the plant is spent fighting this problem, there may not be flowers. Gladioli should not be planted in the same place every year. Each plant selects from the soil those substances that it needs. Crop rotation is a necessary condition for all plants, including gladioli. Incorrect watering is another reason for the lack of flowering. In dry, hot climates, gladioli need to be watered every day in large portions; in other regions, watering is carried out depending on weather conditions. To retain moisture, the soil near the flowers is mulched. A rainy, cold summer can also cause “not flowering” - it’s difficult to give the right advice here. Insufficient care - the soil around the flowers needs to be loosened after each watering so that the roots receive the oxygen they need and breathe. Poor soil and lack of fertilizers - this problem is easily solved by applying fertilizing. Gladioli also respond well to foliar feeding; they absorb it even better. The first time the flowers are fed with urea and potassium is when they have 3 true leaves. After four leaves have grown, a second feeding is carried out with the same fertilizers. Foliar feeding is carried out between the roots, potassium permanganate or boric acid, which also serve as good protection against pests. Foliar feeding can be carried out 3 times per season. Wrong cut. When cutting flowers, you should leave four or five leaves on the bush so that the bulbs receive all the nutrients they need for the next season. Exhaustion of “children” is another reason why gladioli refuse to bloom. Sometimes too small “babies” of bulbs begin to bloom, about one and a half centimeters in diameter. Peduncles should be removed so as not to deplete either the shoot or the “mother” bulb. A bulb spoiled by wireworm is unlikely to have the strength to flower. To protect the bulb from this and other pests, you need to add “Protection” (1 tbsp) into the hole. Thrips - insects settle in the buds and eat them from the inside, sucking out the juices. The flowers begin to fade, turn yellow, and then fall off. There is also a remedy for thrips - this is Actellik or Aktara. During the summer, flowers are sprayed with them 3-4 times. After digging up the bulbs, they are soaked for prevention in a Karbofos solution for 10 minutes, and then washed and dried.

Incorrect landing

One of the main mistakes that gardeners make when planting gladioli is planting the bulbs too deep. Typically, gladioli planting material is lowered into holes to a depth equal to 3 corm diameters on heavy soils and 4 on light soils.

The second mistake is planting adult and young bulbs together. In such a situation, adult planting material will inhibit juvenile corms, and they run the risk of not blooming. It is advisable to plant old bulbs with a wide bottom in a separate flowerbed.

Why are there no flower stalks?

Experienced gardeners identify several reasons that “slow down” the flowering of gladioli.

Bulb quality

By purchasing old and weak planting material, the gardener dooms himself to a sad picture: the flowers did not bloom on time

First of all, it is important to choose varieties and varieties that can adapt to the climatic conditions of your region. It is also worth considering that some varieties can rest for several years after the first flowering, accumulating strength

We are talking about Dutch gladioli. Another important point: when collecting material yourself, the gardener must follow all the rules for storing bulbs and not forget about careful selection. Otherwise, you should not expect gladioli to bloom.

Wrong choice of location

This plant is very fond of sunny color, but it is better to protect it from the dangerous midday sun. Maximum lighting should be present in the morning and evening hours. In the shade, gladioli are unlikely to bloom lushly or the buds will be small and lifeless. Medium and late varieties of gladioli especially need light. It is better to choose an area for planting that is open and bright. However, it is still worth protecting the fragile flower from strong gusts of wind.

Another reason why gladiolus does not shoot an arrow in the first year is the condition of the soil. Soil that does not allow fresh air to pass through has a detrimental effect on the development of the plant’s root system. As a result, the risk of gladiolus becoming infected with fungi or other infections increases. Sometimes the gladiolus does not give the shooter because it was planted too close to the living space. Another important point: gladioli do not grow in one place for more than 2 years.

When replanting this type of ornamental plants, it is necessary to change the composition of the soil. For example, if flowers were planted in black soil, then sandy loam soil will be suitable for the next planting.

Violation of landing technology

The reason for the lack of flower stalks on the plant lies in the incorrect planting process. Sometimes gardeners make a number of mistakes.

In most cases, this is due to the quality of the soil. Skewers prefer breathable, well-drained soil rich in important trace elements and minerals. Soil preparation begins in advance (in autumn). With the arrival of warmer weather, the soil is loosened again, weeds are removed, and the necessary fertilizers are applied. If the soil is not properly prepared, its poverty will lead to a lack of flower stalks. Excessive deepening of the bulbs also affects the flowering process. The neck and bud should remain on the surface of the earth. An excessively deep hole retards the development of the plant. In addition, it is undesirable to plant young and adult bulbs in the same area. The latter will simply crush the young animals. Also, do not plant gladioli in overly moist soil (for example, during the rainy season). There is a possibility that excess moisture will lead to the death of the bulbs

It is important for inexperienced gardeners to understand that planting bulbs in unheated soil will lead to their death. The soil temperature should not be below +10 degrees. Close seating is not allowed

The distance between copies should not be less than 20 cm.

Poor growing conditions

Gladioli are known for their unpretentiousness and do not require careful care. However, beginners often make common mistakes.

First of all, we are talking about private watering. In the hot summer, swords naturally need plenty of soil moisture. However, it is extremely undesirable to allow water to stagnate, as the roots of the bulbs will begin to rot.
Rare watering is also detrimental to a captivating flower. If the surface of the soil is covered with crust, then the soil needs to be moistened.
As for pruning, 3 to 5 leaves should be left on one bush so that the bulbs receive all the necessary substances. Otherwise, the plant will bloom poorly next year.
Another reason why gladioli do not shoot is the lack of feeding. If the gardener did not have time to apply fertilizer immediately after planting the plant, then you should not wait for beautiful flowers on the site.
In addition, some continue to add nitrogen during flowering. This procedure is prohibited, as the buds may wither without opening.

Don't forget about loosening the soil. Lack of oxygen will lead to the death of the bush.

Place to drop off

I noticed that gladioli sometimes do not bloom due to the wrong location for the planted flower bed. It has a bad effect on flowering if they are grown all the time in the same place. It is advisable to change the planting location in the third year. Otherwise, not only will they not bloom, but they will also begin to get sick.

If a flower bed is placed in the shady part of the site, then during the mild summer the gladioli simply will not have time to form a peduncle. This usually happens if gladioli of late varieties and with an average flowering period are planted in a shady area.

It’s even worse if the area is not ventilated enough. This causes fungal diseases, which ultimately also affects the process of flower formation.

Late boarding

The best time to plant strawberries is the second half of summer (late July - August). The deadline for planting strawberries in the middle zone is the beginning of September.

If you plant seedlings of this crop later, the plants simply will not have time to take root and grow a strong enough root system to bloom in the spring.

There is nothing “deadly” about this. If you care for your strawberry bushes correctly, they will most likely bloom and produce their first harvest next year.

Find more information about autumn planting strawberries in our material:

Planting strawberries in the fall - when and how to properly plant seedlings in the beds Strawberries can be planted not only in spring, but also in autumn. How to do it right?

What to do?

Follow the rules for caring for strawberries and wait until next year. If the bushes still do not bloom on time, look for the real reason.

Inappropriate landing site

The planting location also plays an important role in flowering. When choosing a site, it is important to take into account all the features. You should carefully choose the location for the flowerbed:

Gladioli are light-loving plants. In a garden among trees or the shade of a house, plants will bloom late, and late varieties may not have time to gain color.
The location for the flower bed should be changed every 2 years. The earth is gradually depleted and the flowers will lack nutrients. The plants will be weak and will not bloom. Next season, try to plant a flowerbed in a different place.
The flower bed for gladioli should be in a ventilated place. Otherwise, fungal bacteria may spread. Diseased plants will not bloom.
Flowering can be affected by a lack of moisture, so it is better to arrange a flowerbed in a lowland, where moisture lingers longer in the soil.

The germination period is counted from the planting date

In order not to be unfounded, I would immediately like to refer to the sources. We analyzed a lot of literature on floriculture before starting to write the article: magazines “Flower”, “I Love Flowers. Gladioli" and "Garden. Garden. Flower garden”, book “Your favorite roses, dahlias, gladioli”.

Gladioli corms begin to be planted in open ground, as a rule, in late April - early May. In central Russia, the favorable landing time begins approximately on May 10. And if the spring turns out to be cold, you need to plant gladioli no later than June 15, otherwise they will not have time to bloom. It would be a good idea to look at the weather forecast to determine the timing of planting and, accordingly, germination.
20 - 30 days before planting, gladioli bulbs begin to germinate. Dry scales are removed, being careful not to damage the sprout. Sick specimens are discarded. Onions with minor damage are treated: the “ulcers” are cut out, and then smeared with brilliant green or sprinkled with ash/crushed coal.

So, the start date for bulb germination should be determined by the planting date. If you plan to plant gladioli in the flowerbed on May 10, this means you can prepare for germination on April 10.

The gladioli did not have time to bloom, what. Planting dates, or Why “dance”?

In the fall (usually at the end of September - beginning of October), gladioli bulbs are dug up, dried and stored in a cool place. In winter, you need to occasionally check the condition of the bulbs to prevent the spread of diseases and pests. In early spring, the bulbs slowly begin to wake up, and it’s time to begin their pre-planting treatment.

Gladioli are planted in open ground in late April - early May. In the middle zone, the time for planting gladioli occurs, as a rule, only after the 10th day (May). It is by this time that the soil has time to warm up quite well. And if the spring turns out to be cold, the deadline for planting bulbs is June 15. Gladioli planted later do not have time to bloom.

It is the planting date that you should start from when thinking about when to take out gladioli bulbs for germination. After all, if you rush, the sprouts and roots will outgrow, which will greatly weaken the plant itself.

They begin to prepare gladioli bulbs for planting 15-20 days before planting them in open ground. And if they plan to carry out vernalization (germination), this period is extended by a week. Gladioli begin to germinate 20-30 days before planting. Previously, you could only check their condition, discard diseased specimens, treat damage, and treat them (more on this later in the text).

If we plant at the end of April - beginning of May, then at the beginning of April the time comes when you can already take the gladioli bulbs out of storage and start germinating them. And if the bulbs were stored in winter at a temperature of only 4 - 10 degrees Celsius (which is very favorable for them), they need to be brought into the house earlier - at the end of March. They should lie at room temperature until the beginning of April, and then pre-planting preparations can begin.

Lack of proper care

All plants need care and careful care. Just some reasons why flowers will not gain strength and therefore will not bloom:

Insufficient nutrients in the soil chosen for planting. On light soils, the bait should be root and foliar, then it will be better absorbed.
Gladioli require soil aeration. After watering, loosen the soil around the plant well. If the seed material was planted with insufficiently strong seed, it will not bloom without this procedure.
The first time the flowers are fed with urea and potassium is when they have 3 adult leaves. In the 4-leaf phase, a second feeding is carried out with the same fertilizers.

For fertilizing, it is better to use water-soluble forms: the first 3 procedures are best done with nitrogen fertilizers (they are better absorbed), the subsequent ones with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers without chlorine.

For better growth, it is worth mulching the soil. What is it for:

Retains moisture in the soil.
Controls the temperature balance of the soil. The root system is protected from overheating or hypothermia.
During watering or rain, nutrients will not be washed out of the soil.
The earth does not dry out and does not become covered with a hard crust.
Mulch prevents weeds from breaking through, which will clog the flowers.

Flowering is affected by correct cutting. When cutting blooming flowers, you should leave at least 4 leaves on the plant. Otherwise, there will be an outflow of nutrients. The replacement corm will form weak.

It is bad if young gladioli bloom too early. If a plant has bloomed and has barely reached a diameter of 1.5 cm, its further growth will be inhibited and the flower may not bloom next year. In this case, it is worth cutting off the emerging color buds. Peduncles should be removed so as not to deplete either the shoot or the “mother” bulb.

Bulbs should be dug up after the first hard frost. Usually this is the end of September - beginning of October.

Failure to comply with care instructions

You can achieve friendly flowering of gladioli by following the rules of care. First of all, this is, of course, soil aeration. To do this, the soil needs to be loosened as it is compacted. Oxygen supplied to the roots promotes flowering. I water so that the soil is wet to a depth of about 20 cm.

Feeding helps flowering. Both root and foliar application of fertilizers have a good effect. To prevent moisture from evaporating, it is advisable to mulch the soil in the beds.

It is better to fertilize gladioli the first 3 times with nitrogen fertilizers, and the next ones with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. I use fertilizers dissolved in water. Under no circumstances should you apply fertilizers that contain chlorine.

I also recommend that when cutting gladiolus flowers, leave a few leaves on the plant (at least 4 leaves). This condition is required for normal ripening of corms.

I dig up the tubers after the first frosts begin. This is around the end of September or beginning of October. I store gladioli tubers in paper bags or natural fabric bags. It is advisable to ventilate them periodically.

Maybe someone has their own ideas on how to properly grow gladioli so that they bloom for a long time and do not get sick. I would be glad if you share your experience. You can leave your comments at the bottom of the article.

Step-by-step instructions: what to do if the plant goes into arrow?

We present to your attention practical recommendations on what to do if the plant has bloomed, because if you do not pay attention to it in time, it will lose its taste

Check the growing conditions - humidity, soil acidity, plant light level. Bolting often occurs in dry soil, high temperatures and excessive sunlight. If one of the factors is present, the conditions of care are changed to smooth out its influence.
If, after sowing, many female plants with a large number of arrows and small leaf rosettes are found, they are removed, leaving 1 or 2 rosettes for propagation.
If the arrow is small, it is cut off along with the entire leaf rosette. The foliage can be eaten if it has not yet become lignified, but it should be remembered that such a plant has a high content of oxalic acid. After removing the leaves, water the sorrel bed well.

When to dig up gladioli

According to agricultural technology, gladioli are dug out 35, and for late varieties - 40-50 days after the end of flowering. In reality, this is not always possible: flowering may end with the onset of stable frosts, and if you wait a month and a half, you will have to dig the corms out of the snow. Therefore, agronomists advise not to be afraid and to harvest gladioli earlier - if you provide them with good storage conditions, overwintering will go well.

It is also recommended not to delay harvesting because in cold and damp soil the corms begin to rot and become sick. This, first of all, concerns varieties with early flowering and dark-colored gladioli, which are characterized by low immunity to fungal diseases. They are the ones that are removed first. The gladioli that we grew from children can be removed later.

All gladioli are dug up before the onset of stable frosts.

The ideal day for digging is dry and warm; the soil should not be wet, but it should not be dry to a stone state, otherwise there is a risk of losing a large number of babies.

Why gladioli don't bloom: the reason

It happens that the leaves of gladioli are beautiful, even, but do not want to bloom. There may be several reasons for this:

improper storage of bulbs;
insufficient nutrition;
cold or rainy summers;
the bulbs are old, small or weakened;
plant adaptation, for example, Dutch bulbs can bloom magnificently in the first year, and then not produce flower stalks for 2-3 years, getting used to local conditions;
crop rotation is not observed;
presence of pests (wireworms, thrips).

Gladiolus may not release an arrow if storage rules have been violated or the bulb is infested with pests, as well as if there is not enough moisture and heat.

Fast flowering

Gladioli quickly fade for several reasons:

very rainy weather;
the soil has few nutrients or is clayey;
overdried corm.

When do they bloom?

Gladioli are captivating, stately flowers. They are shrouded in an aura of mystery, and there are a large number of legends surrounding them. Hot Africa is considered the birthplace of this elegant plant. Modern breeders count about 5,000 varieties of gladioli.

This plant grows from a bulb. The flowering period depends on the plant variety. For example, early varieties delight with their amazing buds 60-70 days after planting (this year). As for the middle and late species, they, as a rule, begin to bloom after 80-100 days.

Sometimes gladioli (or swords) refuse to please their owners with beautiful inflorescences or the buds are too small and dull. There are many reasons for this. Let's figure it out.

Germinating gladioli bulbs before planting

In order to speed up the flowering period, gladioli should be germinated before planting. This recommendation is especially relevant for northern regions, where summer is much shorter. Without preliminary preparation, only early varieties that produce color in the first half of summer or in the middle can be safely planted.

2 - 3 weeks before planting, gladioli are taken out after winter storage and laid out for germination. By the time of planting, white root tubercles and strong sprouts up to 3 cm high should have formed. Bulbs that have not sprouted after winter are thrown away or burned, the rest are prepared for planting in open ground.

On dry paper or cloth

The method of germination on dry paper or fabric is used when the planting date is still quite far away.

Having taken out the gladioli for germination after winter, they are dried in air. Then dry sheets of paper or fabric are laid on the bottom of the container, the prepared planting material is laid out in one layer, leaving a small distance between adjacent specimens. The box is placed in a warm room, away from artificial heat sources. Gladioli need moderate humidity and diffused lighting. In such conditions, germination will not be rapid, and the roots will be protected from rot.

In the sawdust

For quick germination, wet sawdust is used. A moist, breathable environment is ideal for the formation of a healthy root system and rapid rooting of plants when planted in open ground.

First, preliminary preparation of sawdust is carried out. They are soaked twice in boiling water to remove resinous substances, squeezed out, allowed to cool, and transferred to a container for germination. Gladioli are placed on sawdust with the bottom down and slightly buried.

Thrips

These insects are very difficult to notice as they hide in the buds. Thrips feed on the juice of gladioli. When infected, the buds first turn white, then turn yellow and do not open. With the onset of cold weather, thrips penetrate the corm and hide under the scales, where they overwinter, feeding on its juice.

How to fight?

During the growing season, protective treatments against thrips (Aktaroy, Aktellik) begin before the first flower stalks appear, and then, depending on which drug is chosen, the treatment is repeated after 10-14 days. During the season, it is enough to treat the plants at least 3-4 times, without waiting for obvious signs of damage.

Protecting gladioli bulbs from thrips

To protect the corms during storage, after digging they should be pickled: washed and immersed in a 3% solution of Karbofos or Fufanon for 7-12 minutes. Then they need to be washed and dried again. Some gardeners then place the planting material in a plastic bag, spray it with dichlorvos and quickly tie it up. After 20-30 minutes, take the bulbs out of the bag and finally dry them in a heated room for about 2 weeks. On the 10-14th day, light pressure separates the old bulbs from the bottom. It is recommended to store them in a cool, dry place in paper bags or bags made of breathable fabric (ventilate regularly).

Why are gladioli getting smaller?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsuAPbVD8PM

Looking at the beautiful and large gladioli in the photo, many are often upset when they get the completely opposite result at home (the flowers are small and inconspicuous).

Remember several reasons for such unwanted transformations:
Some novice flower growers plant swordweed in the shade, which is strictly prohibited, since this is a light-loving plant.
Violation of the rules of agricultural technology: non-compliance with the distance or depth of planting, insufficient fertilizing, small volume of land (when grown in flowerpots), oppression by other crops or lack of moisture.
When using unsuitable planting material for planting. A high-quality onion should be large and almost round. Flat old specimens need to be discarded and replaced with babies.
As a result of damage by various diseases and pests, plants and flowers may also become smaller and grow poorly.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with Gladioli preparation for planting in the Urals

When do gladioli bloom?

The flowering time of fudge depends on the variety. Today, breeders have bred a large number of species of gladioli that bloom in different periods.

From the moment of planting the plant blooms:

very early varieties - after 62-70 days;
early varieties - at 68-75 days;
mid-early - after 72-80 days;
average - on days 80-87;
medium-late – 85-90 days;
late - after 91-98 days;
very late - after 100-140 days.

But there are cases when gladioli do not set buds at all or there are very few of them and they are small. We will consider below the reason for the lack of flowering of the sword.

It is also worth considering the adaptation of varieties to your climatic conditions.

Not all types of gladioli can grow in cool climates or too hot ones. There are varieties that bloom magnificently only once every 2-3 years (mostly Dutch).

And here the matter is no longer about poor planting material or improper care, but about the characteristics of the varieties.

Why don't gladioli bloom?

A way to achieve early flowering

Did you know? According to one version, gladiolus is named after gladiators who refused to fight in the arena in the name of friendship. According to legend, friends Saint and Teres were executed, and beautiful flowers grew from their swords.

Plant growers have a question: why does the gladiolus “lay down” on the surface of the ground, its arrow (i.e., peduncle) is curved and deformed. Most often it is an incorrect landing.

The list of erroneous actions includes:

Wrong choice of planting material.
Fit too shallow or deep.
The soil on the site is not fertilized or over-fed.
The chosen location does not meet the cultural needs.

It happens that a gladiolus produces an even, beautiful peduncle, but the buds do not open. They dry out before they have time to gain strength to bloom. Sometimes, having begun to bloom, the bud freezes in a half-open position.

Causes of the problem:

bad light;
little or excess moisture;
low-quality fertilizer.

They fade quickly

Sick bulbs, moldy or dry, produce offspring that are unable to release a flower arrow or maintain an open bud for the entire period assigned to it.

You can make the plant bloom earlier if you plant it as a flowerpot. Sequencing:

Gladiolus bulbs are planted in a pot in early March.
The container is placed in a well-lit and warm place, for example, on a southern windowsill.
Care as for an ordinary flowering pot: watering, fluffing up the soil.
At the end of March, the sprouted plant is planted in open ground under a film cover.
The hole is first scalded with a hot solution of potassium permanganate.
The shelter is removed after the soil warms up to 12...15°C.

We suggest you read: Rabbits knock with their hind legs: body language and behavior, why and what it means

With this planting, the crop will begin to bloom at the beginning of summer - in June. Before the buds form, gladiolus does not need feeding. The nutrients accumulated by the onion are enough for him. If you overdo it with fertilizer, the flower may not open fully.

Errors during landing

Another reason why gladioli do not bloom is improper planting of the bulbs.

Errors may be as follows:

Bad soil. Gladioli love well-drained soil rich in nutrients. They begin to prepare the soil in the fall. It is dug up and fertilized. In the spring, shortly before planting, the soil is loosened again, all weeds are removed, and fertilizing is applied. if this is not done before planting, the bulbs will grow worse, and a lack of elements will lead to a lack of flowering.
Too much deepening of the bulbs. Her neck and kidney should always remain outside. If the hole is too deep, the layer of soil retards the growth of the stems and the bush develops more slowly.
Planting young and second-year bulbs in one area . Old bulbs are stronger and they can crush young bushes that are not yet strong.
Planting in soil that is too wet or during the rainy season. Bulbs often rot in such conditions.
The fit is too tight. Plants will smother each other if placed in a close row. The distance between the bulbs when planting should be at least 20 cm.
The soil has not yet been warmed up. If planted too early in open ground, when the soil has not yet warmed up, the likelihood that the plants will freeze is high. The soil temperature during planting should be no lower than +8 degrees.

Reasons why gladioli do not bloom

Why does fuchsia not bloom but only produce foliage?

The main problem for flower growers is the situation in which for some reason fuchsia does not bloom at home; they do not know what to do if the flower sheds buds and forms only foliage. The reasons may vary. Eliminating short-term problems will help the fuchsia bloom this year. Systematic care work will require more time. Competent activity of the gardener gives a chance that the plant will always bloom.

Fuchsia blooms in a pot

The main reasons why fuchsia buds fall off before they have time to open:

air temperature. If fuchsia does not have flowers, you should check the temperature conditions. Heat is destructive for this flora object. When the temperature rises above 30 °C, the plant will shed flowers, then leaves. In winter, temperatures can range from 5 °C to 10 °C. By the way, a ceramic pot protects the delicate roots of a plant better from heat than a plastic one;
exposure to drafts. Fuchsia loves fresh air, but exposure to drafts is extremely contraindicated for flowering. The sun's rays will easily burn the delicate foliage, which will cause the unopened buds to fall off;
improper watering. The flower quickly reacts to the lack of moisture by dropping buds and flowers. Its greenery becomes sluggish and sinks to the bottom. Death occurs when the soil clod in the pot dries completely. You should not allow oversaturation with moisture, as the roots will rot;
low lighting. With a lack of light, the shoots turn pale and elongate. The plant weakens and is unable to flower. The leaves begin to fade, and the flowers do not want to open;
lack of necessary feeding. The buds are very fond of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Without fertilizing or irregular application, they become smaller and do not want to open. Due to overfeeding, the plant will increase its leaf mass and lose its ability to bloom;
pests and diseases. It is important to establish the nature of the disease as quickly as possible and begin treatment.

Other, no less important reasons:

disruption of wintering. At temperatures above 10 °C the plant stretches upward. In spring, weakened elongated shoots do not have enough strength to flower; large landing capacity. Flowering occurs after the root system has completely entwined the soil coma in the pot; incorrectly selected soil. The light soil becomes depleted and dries out, and the flower starves. In heavy soil, young roots develop poorly and poorly supply the stem with moisture; late flowering variety. Impatience of flower growers leads to the fact that the bush does not bloom

When purchasing, you should pay attention to the plant variety. Late bloomers grow to a certain size and only then begin the flowering process.

The gladioli did not have time to bloom, what to do next. Why do gladioli wither without blooming?

Anomalies with flowering occur in gladioli if care rules are not followed, especially if the flower is a varietal one.
When planting, the age of the child is important, it should not exceed 3 years, it is determined by the size of the bottom. The larger the “hoof” of a gladiolus tuber, the older the flower and the weaker its flowering. The young bulb is round and does not have a flattened shape, unlike the old one. Most often it has only one sprout, which can be used to determine its early age. Important! Plant an old tuber with a large number of sprouts vertically (on its side) - numerous children will appear from it. In this way, valuable varieties can be rapidly propagated.

In the 4th year, the quality of the flowers, their simultaneous blooming, and the saturation of the tone are guaranteed to decrease - the plant is not able to pull out the simultaneous blooming of all flowers, so some will not be able to open, they will not have enough nutrition from the old, weakened bulb. A low-quality tuber leads to the problem of withering of the peduncle, which will not be able to bloom. To avoid this, you just need to regularly update the planting material.

The structure of a gladiolus flower. The small size of the bulbs does not solve the difficulties with flowering; most often they simply will not produce it. Usually, new tubers bloom without difficulty only in the second year after planting. You should not plant weak corms with damage. Mechanical injuries can lead to rot, and damage that occurs during storage is a sign of emerging diseases. Throw away tubers damaged by scab and flowering without regret - only a healthy bulb blooms without problems.

Pathogenic organisms penetrate into the injured mother plant from the soil, which can lead to the complete death of the flower. It is better not to plant old specimens mixed with young ones - oppression of the young will begin. Sort through the corms; the queen cells of the first sort, i.e. the largest ones, will guarantee the quality of the flower arrow. If the sprouts emerging from them are numerous, break them off without regret, leaving the only one, the strongest.

It happens that the planting bulbs are young, the arrow is high, the buds are formed, but with each new flower that blooms, the first and subsequent ones immediately fade, a possible reason is a variety that does not involve powerful inflorescences and is not able to open and hold their number, its average indicators will not exceed 4 -5 simultaneous openings, which is included in the characteristics. This is often characteristic of very early types of gladiolus; mid-late and late ones are more hardy and decorative.

The exception is “Arina”, which is capable of driving out a tall peduncle and holding up to 9 flowers at the same time at the beginning of summer. Gladioli with an average flowering period are characterized by an opening of 8-9, and for late ones, maintaining 10-15 inflorescences on a stem is not a problem. Keep in mind that species that bloom in August have a certain heat barrier. In northern areas, flowering characteristics will change and flowers will fade faster. A powerful spike of 25 buds in the advertising brochure for an early variety will turn into 3 full-fledged flowers with a dozen faded ones without creating special forcing conditions.

Pests and diseases

Diseases and pests are the most common reason why gladioli do not bloom or wither. But not every disease and not every insect is easy to detect on a plant.

For example, pests such as thrips hide in the buds themselves and feed on their juice.
Wireworms live in the ground and feed on the sap of roots and bulbs.
Fungal infections can also stop the development of the bush and due to disease it will not bloom.

You cannot completely insure yourself against attacks by harmful insects or infection; there are a number of preventive measures that increase the resistance of bulbs to such factors.

Before storage, all bulbs are treated with a solution of Karbofos or Fufanon and dried well.
The material must be stored in a cool place in compliance with all sanitary standards.
Before planting in the soil, the bulbs are kept in a solution of potassium permanganate.
The soil is also treated with antiseptics before planting.
To prevent these insects from settling in the bud, the plant is sprayed with Aktara or Aktellik during the growing season before flowering. The treatment is repeated 2 times a month.
Several times a month, the bushes are carefully inspected for the presence of pests or diseases. If insects or damage are detected, immediate treatment is required.

Proper care

Bad weather conditions often result in a lack of flowering in ornamental plants. However, proper care can correct this. If the summer is hot and dry, you need to carefully monitor soil moisture . Typically, watering is carried out once a week, but in conditions of drought and high temperatures, the soil needs to be irrigated daily. Water, among other things, will help cool the hot soil. The required amount of water is enough to moisten the soil to a depth of 30–35 cm.

The procedure necessary after watering is loosening and clearing the soil of weeds . For normal development, the roots of any plant need oxygen. Parasitic grasses are dangerous for crops because they draw food and moisture to themselves, and also thicken the planting. Dense plantings have high humidity and lack of ventilation, and these are ideal conditions for the development of diseases and insect infestation.

It is important to nourish the soil before flowering begins. In spring, nitrogen is needed to set the arrow. Solutions you can use:

urea 25 g per 10 liters of water;
mullein infusion, diluted 1:20.

When the 6th leaf appears, the crop is fed again by applying nitrogen fertilizer with the addition of 10 g of potassium nitrate, 20 g of simple superphosphate per 10 liters of water.

In order for the flowering to be lush and long, during the formation of buds, the crop is fertilized with a mixture of substances (per 10 liters of water):

potassium nitrate 30 g;
superphosphate 20 g;
boric acid 2 g.

Important! Fertilizers must be applied in liquid form. Dry formulations are ineffective because they are poorly absorbed.

Proper cutting into a bouquet helps preserve the ability of bulbs to reproduce. Flowering plants will appear from those “babies” that, after cutting the peduncle, were left with 5-6 leaves for adequate nutrition until full ripening . In addition, planting material collected for propagation must be properly stored. Bulbs that are damaged by insects or showing signs of disease should be sorted immediately and discarded. Before planting, it should be kept in a warm and dry place with good ventilation.