Blackberries: care and cultivation, propagation and pruning

  • May 22, 2019
  • Gardening tips
  • Michael

Almost every one of our compatriots has had the opportunity to try blackberries. And many people are pleasantly surprised by this forest (and sometimes cultivated) berry with its great taste. But few people decide to grow it in their garden or dacha. The fact is that caring for and growing blackberries, propagation and pruning take quite a lot of time and effort. You need to know exactly what to do and how to do it in order to be able to reap a rich harvest.

Botanical description, characteristics

According to the botanical description, garden blackberry is a member of the genus Rubus, family Rosaceae. The most popular are bushy blackberries (better known as “brambles”) and gray blackberries (sometimes called “ojina”).

Garden blackberry is a shrub or shrubby vine . The plant is distinguished by the presence of a stem shoot, which is very flexible. On the surface of the shoot there are many sharp thorns (thorny varieties), and the end of the stem is represented by a perennial rhizome. The height of the plant can reach 2 m, provided that there is a nearby trellis or other support along which the blackberry can spread.

Did you know? Breeders have already developed thornless varieties of blackberries, which also impress with their increased resistance to diseases and pests and high yield.

The leaf blades are usually five to seven-parted or trifoliate. They have a pale or bright green tint. The plant acts as an excellent honey plant during the flowering period. The flowers of the plant reach 3 cm in diameter. Blackberries often bloom from June to August, depending on the climatic conditions of the region. The first fruits can be enjoyed in early August, but fruiting continues almost until the first frost.

Blackberries are elastic and quite dense. They have a dark brown, black or dark purple hue . There may be a slight bluish coating on the surface of the fruit. The characteristics of berries depend on the type and variety.

  • The main features include:
  • Blackberries can easily tolerate drought, but it is still better to water the bushes at least twice a month to achieve a good harvest.
  • The plant can withstand down to -5...-10°C (with the exception of frost-resistant varieties). That is why the crop needs obligatory shelter for the winter, so that in the spring it can be revived and bear fruit in the future.
  • The crop is considered productive. Depending on the variety, it is possible to obtain about 7–15 kg of berries from each bush. Of course, this is possible provided that the growing rules are followed.
  • The berries are distinguished by their good keeping quality (at a temperature of +2...+5°C the fruits can be stored for about 3 days) and transportability.
  • It is impossible not to note the amazing taste of the berries, numerous beneficial properties, as well as the same shape and size of the fruit.

In addition, different varieties of blackberries have their own advantages and disadvantages. It is very important to take a responsible approach to choosing the appropriate variety for cultivation in a particular region in order to achieve simple care, a plentiful and truly tasty harvest.

The plant can be used in both industrial and home cultivation . Most likely, gardeners will very soon appreciate blackberries and their plantations will be widespread not only in America, but also in Europe.

Types and varieties

There are many types of blackberries, the most famous are:

  • E. gray,
  • E. bushy,
  • Blackberry,
  • E. gigantica,
  • E. vulgaris,
  • E. split,
  • E. folded,
  • E. early.

The first 2 species are often cultivated in Russia.

Work on the selection of thornless blackberry varieties began in the USA in the 20s. XX century Europe did not lag behind, especially England, where many varieties of this plant were obtained. However, American varieties predominate in our gardens.

When choosing blackberry varieties, you should first of all take into account yield, fruit quality and disease resistance, and not possible resistance to frost, because in most regions (with the exception of the southern) you will have to cover blackberries for the winter.

Thornless blackberry (Rubus fruticosusjest) is a hybrid of several species of wild blackberry. Its characteristic feature is bare, usually brown, shoots completely devoid of thorns. Depending on the variety, the stems can be up to 2-5 meters long and require supports.

Among the rich offer, the following options should be highlighted.

Arapaho

The Arapahoe blackberry variety ARAPAHO has rigid shoots without thorns, so it does not require support. Shoots can reach 5 meters in length. The advantage of the variety is high frost resistance. Fruits on 2-year-old shoots. Early variety - fruits ripen in June. The plants are productive, from one bush you can collect 6 kg of fruits, large (5 g), dark, dense, sweet.

Theodore Reimer

Variety THEODOR REIMERS with very aromatic, sweet berries, vigorous growing. The berries hang in large groups on the side shoots. Harvesting begins in mid-July and continues until September.

Black satin

The new thornless variety “Black Satin” BLACK SATIN is characterized by medium growth, the length of the shoots is 1.2 meters. Spherical, black, sweet, aromatic fruits ripen in the first ten days of August. Very productive, frost resistant.

Chester

Thornless variety of blackberry "Chester" CHESTER - grows up to 1.5 meters in width and height. Has erect shoots. The fruits ripen at the end of July, large, hard, sweet.

Navajo

Blackberries of the “Navajo” variety NAVAHO are a bush with straight growth, up to 1.5 m high and about 1 m wide. A mid-late variety, the fruits ripen at the turn of August and September. The berries are medium size (4-5 g), juicy, sweet, almost black, shiny.

Triple Crown

The blackberry variety “Triple Crown” TRIPLE CROWN is a shrub with erect shoots growing up to 1.5 m. The fruits ripen at the turn of July and August, large, bluish-black, juicy. A very productive variety.

Loch Ness

Among the varieties not originating from the USA, LOCH NESS, bred in Scotland, should be mentioned. It bears fruit for a long time - from August until the first frost. The fruits are large (5 g), hard. Very productive, frost-resistant variety, growing vigorously.

Orkan

The Polish variety "Orkan" ORKAN is distinguished by relatively large, black, aromatic fruits that ripen in August. The variety is moderately resistant to frost.

Thornless Evergreen

The TORNLESS EVERGREEN variety is a vigorously growing shrub with an interesting leaf shape and large, tasty fruits that ripen at the end of August.

Polar

Early large-fruited variety of garden blackberry POLAR. Plant growth is strong, the bush does not form root shoots. The shoots are rigid, without thorns, with a gentle arched bend at the top. Productivity – 6 kg. Fruiting period: early (late July - early August). The berries are very large and sweet. Frost-resistant variety, can withstand -30º degrees.

Ruben

The remontant variety "Ruben" REUBEN ripens in the summer on one-year-old shoots, and in the fall on two-year-old shoots. Tasty, juicy, sweet fruits have an oblong shape. The variety was bred at the University of Arkansas in the USA, where winters are warm. Bushes may freeze and require shelter.

Natchez

The NATCHEZ variety was developed at the University of Arkansas. Requires shelter in winter. The collection of the first ripe fruits begins in mid-July. The berries are large, elongated, exceptionally tasty.

Apache

The APACHE variety ripens quite early in the Middle Zone - on July 25. The yield per plant is 2.4 kg of fruit weighing 8 g. The berries are delicious.

Black Butte

BLACK BUTTE is a productive, sweet variety. It bears fruit from the beginning of August. The size of the fruit is large, oval or slightly conical in shape. The berries are dark blue and black, juicy, very sweet. The shoots are tough and reach 2 meters in length. The fruit is easily separated from the shoot. The berries ripen unevenly.

Agawam

AGAWAM is a frost-resistant, prickly variety, grown even in Siberia. The berries are sweet and ripen in July. Productivity – 5 kg. Withstands frosts down to -40 ºC.

Choosing a variety for growing in open ground

When choosing a suitable variety for cultivation in open ground, you need to focus on the size of the fruit, taste, resistance to frost and drought, and the possibility of using agricultural technology.

The following varieties are considered the best:

  1. Loch Tay . This is an early ripening Scottish variety. The advantages of the bush are thornless, large-fruited, frost-resistant, sweet taste. The variety is very productive. A significant disadvantage is the need for mandatory crown formation. Suitable for growth in cold climates, for example, in the Leningrad region.
  2. Prime-Ark Freedom . This is a remontant English variety. Its advantages are thornless, high yield, pleasant dessert taste: sweetness with slight sourness and juiciness. The disadvantages include low frost resistance and the need to tie up branches.
  3. Chester . This is an American late-fruiting variety. The advantages of the crop are long-term fruiting, no need for pinching, and the formation of a large number of fruit clusters. Disadvantages include difficulty in covering for the winter and the inability to ripen berries in cold years.
  4. Polar . This is a Polish variety of medium ripening. Its advantages are large berries with a dessert taste, high yield. The main disadvantage is brittle and hard stems.
  5. Natchez . This is an early American variety. Its advantages include thornlessness, marketability, excellent taste, transportability, and a long fruiting period. The disadvantages include the fragility of the shoots and the small number of replacement shoots.

You can give preference to other varieties. It is advisable to choose frost-resistant ones for any climate, because caring for them is easier. Hybrids are a worthy choice, as they are resistant to pests and diseases.

Navajo blackberry

Navajo thornless blackberry forms a large, upright bush one and a half to two meters high. The plant is unpretentious, requires minimal care and does not need support. The harvest of large, oval or round berries ripens in August, and its harvest lasts about another month. The mass of the purple-black berry is 5–7 grams. The fruits are tasty, sweet with a slight sourness.

The advantages of this blackberry variety are high yield, excellent taste and type of berries.

How to plant correctly

It is important to understand the rules and features of how to plant blackberries correctly. If you ignore deadlines, advice on choosing a location and selecting planting material, you cannot count on a good harvest. There are no particular difficulties in growing this crop, but you still need to learn some nuances: when to plant, how to plant, where is the best place to place it, whether to spike it.

Deadlines

Planting on a personal plot is allowed in spring and autumn. Each time period has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing, you need to focus on the climatic conditions of the region where you plan to grow the crop.

The main advantages of planting blackberry seedlings in the spring include the following:

  1. Optimal soil moisture. In most cases, there is no need for watering, since rain and snow will provide the crop with sufficient moisture. The exception is pre-winter watering, which is carried out from the year of the plant’s life following planting.
  2. The root system of the plant will develop slowly in winter, and the crop will greet spring already rooted. In other words, there will be a clear advance in bush growth compared to those that were planted in the spring.
  3. Variety of planting material. It is in autumn that gardening stores and professional nurseries offer the most seedlings. By spring, most will have already been purchased, so there will be a shortage.
  4. Minimum amount of worries. There is no need to think about how to preserve planting material. The seedlings will develop quietly.

Autumn planting is the best option for the southern regions and central Russia, Belarus and Ukraine. For the middle zone, it is advisable to start planting in mid-October and end in mid-November and no later. For the southern regions, planting can continue until mid-December.

Important! The soil must be warm and prepared, otherwise the plant will not take root.

Spring planting is carried out if the shrubs were not planted in the fall . And also planting in the spring is a necessity for the northern regions, characterized by cold winters, when the probability of plant survival is low. Favorable time is from mid-March to April. Well, it’s best to focus not on a specific date, but on weather conditions.

The basic requirements for planting blackberries in spring are as follows:

  • the air should warm up to a temperature of +10…+15°C;
  • the soil should warm up to a depth of at least 10–12 cm.

Important! When planting in spring, the humus is removed after 3 weeks, and when planting in autumn, it is left for the whole winter.

Remember to prepare the area for planting. For spring replanting, preparation is carried out in the fall, and for autumn replanting - 2-3 weeks before the procedure itself.

Site selection, site preparation

You need to take a responsible approach to choosing a site. The best option is a sunny but wind-protected area. Keep in mind that blackberries will not take root in areas that are too dry, but stagnation of moisture is even more destructive for them. That is why you need to give preference to places where the groundwater level is slightly more than 1 m, but less than 2 m. In this case, stagnation of water will be excluded, but the plant will receive enough moisture.

You can plant blackberries near the fence, but at a distance of about 1 m, so that the plant is not in the shade. It is advisable to give preference to places on the southwestern or southern side of the site. But planting in the place where vegetables grew is not allowed; at least 3-4 years must pass. During this time, soil bacteria will be completely restored, which is necessary for the normal development of blackberries.

Where to plant? A good choice is fertile loams, but it is better to avoid planting in sandy, swampy, clay soils . In any case, the soil needs preparation. It needs to be dug up in advance and fertilizers must be applied to a depth of about 0.35–0.5 m.

In each planting hole you need to pour:

  • 150 g superphosphate;
  • 5 kg of compost or manure (only rotted manure can be used, fresh is not allowed);
  • 50 g potassium salts.

The fertilizer is thoroughly mixed with the soil. Fertilizer is not required for the next 3-4 years. If fertilizing is not carried out during the planting period, then the plant will need to be fertilized annually.

Selection of planting material, how to prepare [o:p]

When choosing planting material, you should be guided by the following recommendations:

  • Preference should be given to zoned varieties;
  • thornless varieties are more convenient in planting, subsequent care and subsequent harvesting;
  • erect and semi-creeping varieties tolerate low temperatures more easily;
  • remontant varieties are more resistant to diseases and pests;
  • hybrids have excellent natural immunity.

A good seedling should have more than 2 shoots with a thickness of 0.5 cm with a developed root system (roots should be longer than 10–15 cm) of a closed type (in a planting container). The age of the seedling must be more than 1 year. In this case, the survival rate will be almost 100%.

Garden blackberries on a summer cottage or personal plot

01/27/2021 Garden blackberry belongs to plants of the genus Rubus ( lat. Rubus

) of the Rosaceae family and is the closest relative of the common raspberry. This culture is most popular in the United States and Mexico. In addition, these countries are today the world's main suppliers of blackberries.

In Ukraine, the total amount of area occupied by blackberries is still small and amounts to about 5,000 hectares. Meanwhile, in our country, this plant is gradually gaining more and more recognition, especially among owners of household plots and summer cottages. And there are plenty of reasons for this, since blackberries not only have an excellent taste, but also contain many useful substances. In addition, this plant is undemanding in care, can bear fruit for more than 10 years and can be used as a green hedge.

The most widespread types of this culture are currently:

· Gray blackberry (lat. Rubus caesius)

Bushy blackberry (lat. Rubus fruticosus)

lat. Rubus caucasicus) is most often grown

) and long-fruited (
lat. Rubus dolichocarpus
) blackberries.

It is noteworthy that absolutely all types of this plant have almost identical taste, and differ from each other only in the shape, size and color of the fruit.

Blackberries prefer soil with high levels of moisture, and therefore the wild form of this plant can most often be found near the shores of freshwater bodies of water, in flooded forests and ravines, where it can form impenetrable thickets of thorny bushes.

In the wild, blue blackberries are most often found. The plant received this name because of the dense bluish coating that covers the fruits. Wild blackberries are just as juicy and tasty as cultivated varieties, but contain more acid.

Currently, many cultivated varieties of blackberries have been developed in the world.

Description of the plant

Blackberry is a creeping or erect shrub and can reach 1.5 to 3 m in height.

The plant has flexible green or slightly purple stems, which may be covered with sharp and slightly curved thorns.

It is generally accepted that the word “blackberry” appeared in Russian back in the 14th century and meant “hedgehog-berry” because of its sharp thorns. Currently, thanks to active breeding work, which is carried out mainly in the United States, more than 400 varieties of blackberries have already been created. This list also includes plants that do not have thorns.

The leaves of the shrub can be three-, five- or seven-parted. They are slightly pubescent on both sides and have a pale green color.

Blackberries bloom from June to August. The flowers are white or light pink with green sepals, up to 3 cm in diameter.

The plant is an excellent honey plant.

The fruits ripen in the second half of August. Traditionally, they are called berries, although, based on the botanical classification, blackberries do not belong to berries, but are several dozen drupes fused together. When unripe, the polystyrene is green in color, but as it ripens, it gradually turns reddish-brown until it acquires a rich black or dark purple color.

In some varieties, the fruits are covered with a thin bluish coating. In appearance, blackberries are very similar to raspberries, but have a denser consistency and therefore retain their presentation and taste characteristics much longer.

As for the taste, blackberries are juicy, slightly tart, sour-sweet and directly depend on the place where the bush is planted, so the fruits of plants that grow in the shade have additional acidity.

Useful properties of blackberries

It is generally accepted that blackberries are much healthier than raspberries, since they surpass them in the amount of nutrients. For example, they contain more than 20 types of various macro- and microelements, a large number of antioxidants, vitamins (groups A, E, C, E, P, PP and K), as well as many tannins, flavonoids, pectins, vegetable sugars and organic acids, including ascorbic, malic, salicylic, tartaric and others.

Thanks to such a rich set of various beneficial components, this plant has long been used as a medicine.

Fresh blackberries are recommended for use in cases of vitamin deficiency and anemia, metabolic disorders, gastrointestinal disorders (in particular, dysentery, gastritis and colitis), urolithiasis, as well as for the prevention of diabetes.

Blackberries also have a beneficial effect on diseases of the upper respiratory tract, including bronchitis, tracheitis, pharyngitis and sore throat. It is no less useful for colds, ARVI and flu, being also an excellent antipyretic.

Scientific studies have shown that the phenolic compounds contained in fresh drupes prevent the development of cancer cells, prevent the formation of atherosclerotic plaques, have a positive effect on the functioning of the cardiovascular system, improve brain function and improve mood. Therefore, it is advisable to use blackberries in stressful situations, for nervous disorders and as a remedy for insomnia.

Traditional medicine recommends using not only the fruits, but also the roots and leaves of blackberries to treat various diseases, as they have a healing, astringent, tonic and anti-inflammatory effect. Decoctions and infusions are usually prepared from the leaves, which have a diaphoretic and blood purifying effect, help improve the functioning of the stomach and intestines, and help with menstrual irregularities.

Many women make health masks based on drupes. They are very beneficial for the skin because they have a rejuvenating effect, slowing down the formation of wrinkles.

Growing blackberries

Most blackberry varieties and hybrids have good frost resistance and can easily withstand the unfavorable winter conditions of our climate zone. However, it should be taken into account that the cold resistance of cultivated blackberries is still somewhat worse than that of raspberries.

Blackberry seedlings are most often planted in open ground in the spring, in the second half of April or in the first half of May, as soon as stable warmth has established and the soil has warmed up well. It is advisable to prepare the planting site in advance, in the fall.

Blackberries prefer light, well-moistened, well-drained soil with increased breathability. Loamy soil with a neutral pH level is best suited for this plant. On carbonate soil, the plant will be deficient in magnesium and iron.

The landing site should be well lit and protected from drafts and strong gusts of wind.

Particular attention must be paid to the quality of seedlings, since the future harvest directly depends on this factor. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase planting material from specialized nurseries that have an impeccable reputation. It is not recommended to buy seedlings by hand, since in this case it is difficult to insure against the purchase of plants that are obviously of poor quality and do not correspond to the declared variety of plants.

It is desirable that each seedling contains two shoots, and that the root system is healthy, well developed and has a formed bud. The thickness of the stems should be at least 5 mm.

When preparing a planting hole, up to 10 kg of humus or compost, 25 g of potassium sulfate and about 15 g of superphosphate should be added to it. The width and depth of the hole directly depends on the age and size of the seedling's root system.

When planting multiple plants, two planting methods are usually used:

· Tape

· Bush

In the first case, seedlings are planted in deep furrows in a continuous chain, so that the distance between individual plants is about 1 m. For this planting method, it is advisable to select varieties that quickly form stems.

For bush planting, on the contrary, you should choose plants with a low level of shoot formation, since this method involves planting two or even three seedlings in one planting hole. When placing several bushes, planting holes should be located at a distance of at least 180 cm from each other.

Regardless of the planting method, the seedlings need to thoroughly straighten the root system when they are lowered into the hole, and when sprinkling with soil, make sure that the bud located at the base of the shoot is placed just below the level of the ground surface. If it turns out to be much lower, then the plant may rot in the future, and if higher, then it will dry out.

Around the root zone it is necessary to create a shallow depression with a small side in the form of an earthen rampart. This simple technique will contribute to the accumulation of snow in winter and reduce the number of required waterings.

At the end of planting, the soil around the seedling must be lightly compacted, watered and mulched with natural materials in a layer of at least 5 cm. Straw, pine needles, peat, sawdust, compost or other materials can be used as mulch. Thanks to mulching, the amount of weeding will be significantly reduced, and moisture will be retained in the top fertile layer. In addition, mulch will become an additional source of nutrition for blackberries.

After planting, the blackberry stems must be cut at a height of 20 cm from the surface of the ground, and, regardless of the planting method, vertical trellises must be installed, to which fruit-bearing shoots will later be tied.

As a basis for making trellises, you can use metal pipes or wooden posts up to 2 m high. Between them, at a height of 50 cm from the surface of the ground, you need to stretch a wire jumper. The second jumper should be at a height of 1 m 25 cm, and the third - at a height of 1 m 80 cm. Fruit stems of the second year will be tied to it.

As they develop, young blackberry shoots must be regularly tied to the base to give them the right direction for growth.

Subtleties of blackberry pruning

Blackberry bushes should be pruned regularly throughout the growing season.

The first pruning is carried out in early spring, as soon as the buds on the stems of the bush come to life. During this procedure, it is necessary to remove all dried and frost-damaged shoots using pruning shears. They need to be pruned to a healthy bud. Next, you should ruthlessly remove all weakened stems. Only well-developed and powerful branches should remain on the plant. Usually their number does not exceed ten.

It should be remembered that straight-growing varieties of blackberries do not form fruits during the first season. Therefore, in order for the plant to produce a richer harvest next year, gardeners perform mandatory pinching (shortening) of the tops of the main fruit shoots. The purpose of this operation is to cause increased development of lateral branches in plants. This will help increase their productivity.

To do this, all stems of the first year with a length of one meter or more must be shortened by 10 cm. In addition, it is necessary to pin all the side branches, leaving only 6–8 of the strongest ones. They should have 8 to 12 healthy buds left.

Further, as soon as the side shoots of the bush reach 50 centimeters or more in length, they should also be shortened by 10 cm. Gardeners usually carry out this operation in July.

Such pruning of plants will not only form a compact and neat bush, but will also have a positive effect on its yield.

In addition, during the process of growth and development of the blackberry bush, it is necessary to regularly remove all root shoots that developed during the summer, and leave only those that appeared in the spring. It is the spring stems that will produce the harvest next year. With the onset of autumn, they should be pruned at a height of 180–200 cm. Do not forget to remove, by cutting at the root, all the stems that have already completed fruiting by this time. They will no longer bear fruit, but will only take resources from the plant.

Blackberry care

In general, caring for shrubs is simple and consists of organizing systematic watering, loosening the top layer of soil (in the absence of mulch), regular fertilizing and weed control.

As for watering, it is of particular importance in the first month after planting, until the seedling finally adapts to life in new conditions. This is especially true during the dry season with insufficient natural precipitation.

Mature blackberry bushes are less demanding on humidity levels, but they should also be provided with a sufficient amount of water during the period of active flowering and fruit formation. It is advisable to use water that has stood for 1–2 days for irrigation. In any case, it should not be too cold.

During strong sunshine, it is advisable to cover the bushes with a special shading polymer mesh, otherwise the fruits scorched by the sun will lose their presentation and taste.

Many gardeners, having established a young blackberry plantation, sow the rows with green manure plants, which act as green fertilizer. The most common green manure species include: vetch, lupine, oats, phacelia, mustard, rye, alfalfa, peas, beans and some other crops. Their green mass is incorporated into the soil, usually in the budding phase. Processed by soil microorganisms, these plants turn into good organic fertilizer. With the help of green manure, you can significantly enrich the soil with nutrients and increase the yield of blackberries.

Many gardeners, after the grown seedlings begin to bear fruit, instead of mulching, keep the rows between the rows under black fallow, and therefore throughout the subsequent years they regularly weed and loosen the soil.

Blackberry feeding

For a long time, there was an opinion among gardeners that creeping varieties of blackberries, called dewberries, consume more nitrogen, while for upright varieties, which are conventionally called brambles, the presence of potassium and phosphorus is more important.

This is all true, however, thanks to the active breeding work that is currently underway, the obvious distinctive features between creeping and upright growing forms of shrubs are gradually being leveled out. This has led to the fact that individual modern plant varieties and hybrids simply cannot be subjected to strict classification.

Therefore, to carry out effective fertilizing, you need to remember the following: in the initial phase of the growing season, any variety of blackberry responds well to nitrogen-containing fertilizers (20 g of urea or ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. m of area). Ammonium nitrate contains two forms of nitrogen - ammonium and nitrate. The nitrate form is immediately available to plants, and the ammonium form, thanks to the work of soil microorganisms, is gradually converted into a digestible form. The duration of action of ammonium nitrate is about 45 days.

Urea, in turn, contains the amide form of nitrogen, which is absorbed mainly through the surface of the leaves, so it is advisable to spray plants with this fertilizer specifically on the leaf. With root treatment, a noticeable effect will occur only after 7–40 days, when amide nitrogen is converted into nitrate form and becomes available to the root system of shrubs.

If the site uses mulching based on organic substances, including humus or compost, then there is no need to feed the shrubs with phosphorus fertilizers. However, it is advisable to apply potassium fertilizers annually. Without timely feeding with potassium, even a correctly selected blackberry variety is not able to fully demonstrate its potential. As a result, the ripened drupes will have a small size and a sour taste.

Phosphorus fertilizers are usually applied in the amount of 100 g per 1 square meter of area, and potassium fertilizers - 50 g. Potassium sulfate is best suited for blackberries, since it does not contain chlorine. Of the organic types of potassium fertilizers, you can use a solution of wood ash, which is used in the form of root feeding. To prepare the working solution, you need to pour 200 g of ash into 10 liters of boiling water, and then leave for two days. In addition to potassium and phosphorus, wood ash also contains many trace elements, which will help strengthen the blackberry's immune system.

Thanks to potassium, the taste qualities of fruits will manifest themselves in the best possible way.

Preparing blackberries for the winter season

After the shoots that have produced fruit have been completely removed, and the foliage that has fallen from the blackberry bushes has been removed and destroyed, you can begin to ensure the wintering of the plants.

As a preventive measure in the fall, it is advisable to treat the shrubs with Actellik, Akarin or Fitoverm, as well as copper sulfate. Insecticides will provide plants with protection from insect pests, and copper sulfate will prevent the development of fungal infections.

Cold-resistant varieties of blackberries are able to withstand short-term drops in air temperature from -15 to -20 ° C, but with prolonged exposure to frost they can die, so plants grown in cold regions require mandatory shelter.

To do this, the bush must be carefully removed from the trellis, laid out on the ground and then covered. Polyethylene film, hay, straw, sawdust, humus, etc. can be used as covering material.

However, it is advisable not to use fallen leaves of fruit trees as shelter, since they can harbor harmful microorganisms and insects.

You can learn how to propagate blackberries yourself here.

and to learn more about pests and diseases you need to follow this
link
.

Where to plant: in the shade or in the sun

Blackberries are sun-loving plants. It needs to be planted in a well-lit place. Subsequent fruiting directly depends on this.

Did you know? Blackberries were known more than 2000 years ago. Even then it was actively grown and used in cooking and medicine.

When planting a berry bush in the shade, it will become deformed: the shoots will stretch towards the light and will be thin and brittle. Leaves can change shape. The berries will be small and sour or the bush will not be ugly at all.

Landing algorithm

The algorithm for planting blackberries is simple.

But it’s still better to follow the following step-by-step instructions exactly:

  1. Prepare a hole in the selected location with a depth and diameter corresponding to the root system of the seedling. Remember that you need to deepen the plant only to the root collar and no deeper.
  2. Add fertilizer to the hole (the composition is described above).
  3. Spread the roots of the seedling. Holding it upright, immerse it in the prepared hole and cover it with clean soil, then lightly compact it.
  4. Check the depth of the root collar. It should be about 2–4 cm underground.
  5. Shorten the stem so that it does not rise higher than 5–15 cm above the ground. You can refuse pruning if a seedling with a closed root system is planted.
  6. Form a hole around the planted plant and pour 10 liters of water into it using a watering can.
  7. After absorbing the liquid, you need to mulch the soil with fallen leaves, straw, wood chips, peat chips, sawdust or compost so that the layer is about 4 cm.

Video: How to plant blackberries correctly. Blackberry care

Rules of care

Growing blackberries is not difficult. It is important to properly care for the bushes so that you can count on a bountiful and tasty harvest.

So, you need to comply with the following requirements:

  1. Watering . Immediately after planting, the plant needs to be watered every 7 days, then watering is reduced to once every 2 weeks. Under each bush you need to pour at least 10 liters of water at a time.
  2. Weeding . At least once every 2 weeks (or better, as needed), you need to weed the plant to remove weeds.
  3. Loosening . The soil is loosened monthly to improve aeration.
  4. Mulching. It is performed in the winter so that the plant can better survive the cold.
  5. Feeding . It is performed using the mulching method, that is, spreading fertilizer over the ground. Peat, humus or compost is used. You can use potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus-containing additives, taking into account the period of plant life: growth, flowering or fruiting.

In addition, remember to control pests and diseases as needed to prevent the crop from dying. Pruning and formation of the bush crown is carried out annually.

When is it better to plant blackberries - in spring or autumn?

So, you’ve decided that it’s time to plant garden blackberries on your site, but you don’t know when is the best time to do it? You can plant a seedling in open ground both in spring and autumn. But it is believed that for this culture spring is the optimal time for holding the event.

You can plant in the fall, but experienced gardeners agree on one thing - this is not the best period. Especially for varieties that have low cold resistance, planting them in the fall is highly not recommended. But there are also winter-hardy varieties, but it is better to plant them in the spring. If a seedling is planted in open ground in the fall, it is extremely important to cover and protect the plant well from the winter cold.

Each summer resident and gardener must decide for himself when it is better for him to plant blackberries - in spring or autumn. But do not forget that for this crop the spring procedure is preferable.

Pruning and shaping the bush

Blackberry bushes should be pruned regularly.

The main reasons for the procedure are as follows:

  • the bush is growing strongly, which means harvesting will be difficult;
  • branches that bear fruit become unnecessary, you need to get rid of them, because they take energy from the bush;
  • after autumn pruning, plants tolerate low temperatures better;
  • shortening young growth makes their subsequent care easier and contributes to a larger harvest due to stimulation of flowering;
  • Weak, frozen or pest-infested branches will not produce a harvest, so you need to get rid of them.

Pruning on a summer cottage can be done in one of two ways, selected according to the type of crop:

  1. The fan method is used for upright varieties. Its peculiarity is that last year’s branches need to be attached to the trellis vertically, and young growth – horizontally. It turns out to be a kind of fan. In the fall, it will not be difficult to see that the vertical ones need to be trimmed at the root. Then the horizontal ones are tied vertically, because they are already old, and new ones are tied in their place.
  2. The rope technique was developed for creeping varieties, characterized by flexible and long branches . Last year's branches are spirally wound onto a wire, moving in one direction. Young shoots are tied up in a similar way, but from the opposite side. In the fall, shoots that have produced fruit are pruned, young growth (its harvest is expected in the coming year) is tied in place of the old ones, and only the formed stems are tied in their place. The advantage of the method is that neither the thorns nor the length of the shoots interfere with pruning.

Before the beginning of the summer of the first year of life, the stems need to be cut by 5–7 cm to stimulate the appearance of lateral shoots. In the second year of life after fruiting, they are completely pruned. As necessary, not only autumn pruning (removal of fruit-bearing shoots), but also spring pruning is performed. It is sanitary: it allows you to get rid of damaged shoots and form a crown.

Blackberry Reuben

Hybrid blackberry Ruben bears fruit on shoots of both the first and second years of life. The first harvest occurs in July, then the very large berries, weighing from 10 to 16 grams, ripen at the end of summer and are harvested until October. Remontant blackberries are distinguished not only by double harvesting of berries, but also by high yield.

Powerful bushes have an erect shape, do without support and tolerate frost well.

Installation diagram of a trellis made of poles and wire

Making and installing a trellis is a simple procedure that you can do yourself. The base is pillars, for example, wooden poles or metal pipes. The posts are designed to stretch the lines. In the fall, all old branches are cut off and the rest are tied up.

Manufacturing proceeds as follows:

  • holes are dug in the row where the pillars will be mounted (the depth should be 80 cm), and about 5 m should be allocated between them;
  • a layer of crushed stone (about 10–15 cm) is placed in each hole to prevent the pillars from subsiding;
  • the lower part of the supports should be treated with mastic, then the structures are mounted in the hole, leveled with the ground, covered with earth and compacted;
  • The wire is stretched between the supports; it is enough to make 3 or 4 tiers in increments of 50 cm.

Next, the blackberries are formed on the trellis according to one of the following schemes:

  1. Weave.

    The branches are attached to the trellis in 3 tiers. When new branches grow, they are bent from the trunk, leading to the fourth line, that is, upward.
  2. Fan. Old branches are tied vertically, like a fan, fixed along 3 lines. The young are released along 4 lines, that is, from the top.
  3. One-way tilt. Fruiting shoots must be tilted to one side, fixing along 3 lines. The young ones trudge along the old ones, but in the opposite direction.

Harvesting and storage

Harvesting occurs as the blackberries ripen. The berries must be ripe, since they do not have the ability to ripen when picked. It is imperative to collect the fruits in dry weather, at noon or later. If droplets of rain remain on the berries or there is dew, the fruits will be wet and their storage will be impossible, since they will not mold.

Important! Storage of berries is allowed at a temperature of +2...+7°C for 3 days.

You can preserve berries in other ways. If desired, they can be frozen or dried in the sun, in the oven or in a dryer to increase their shelf life.

Properties of blackberries: harm and benefit

Useful properties of blackberries

Blackberry fruits contain a large amount of vitamins, namely: carotene (provitamin A), vitamins C, E, P and K. They also contain minerals: sodium, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, iron, chromium, molybdenum, barium, vanadium and nickel. They also contain a large amount of glucose, fiber, fructose, pectin, and organic acids such as tartaric, citric, malic and salicylic. Such fruits help improve metabolic processes in the body and strengthen the immune system; they have an antioxidant and antipyretic effect. Blackberries are considered a natural substitute for aspirin, but unlike the drug, the fruits not only do not cause any harm to the body, but also heal it. This berry is recommended for consumption by people suffering from diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, as it has a beneficial effect on the functioning of the digestive system. Blackberries have also been used for a long time and quite successfully in the treatment and prevention of diabetes and urolithiasis. Juice squeezed from young leaves and fruits of blackberries is used for tracheitis, bronchitis, pharyngitis, sore throat, fever, gynecological diseases, dysentery and colitis. This juice is also used externally to treat dermatoses, eczema, wounds, trophic ulcers and gum diseases.

Both berries and other parts of the plant are used for medicinal purposes. For example, leaf blades contain a large amount of vitamin C, tannins and amino acids. In this regard, they have an astringent, anti-inflammatory, diuretic, wound-healing, diaphoretic and blood purifying effect. An infusion from the leaves of this plant is taken for nervous disorders and heart disease. Tea and a decoction of the leaves are used for anemia, and also as a general tonic and sedative for menopausal neurosis. A decoction of the leaves is used for gastritis. Fresh leaves are used in the treatment of lichen and old ulcers on the lower extremities.

The roots of this culture are used to prepare a diuretic for dropsy. A tincture prepared from them is used for bleeding and to improve digestion.

Preparing for winter, how to cover

Sheltering the plant is a necessity to survive the winter, because the crop cannot withstand temperatures below -5...-10°C (with the exception of frost-resistant varieties).

Preparing for winter is done like this:

  1. Perform autumn pruning by removing fruit-bearing shoots at the root. The stems bear fruit for only 1 year.
  2. Then water the plant in winter on the basis that each bush needs 10 or 15 liters of water.
  3. Be sure to perform pre-winter fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, the task of which is to maintain the crop in winter and ensure active growth in spring.
  4. The tree trunk circle is mulched with suitable material, for example, rotted sawdust or fallen leaves.

The last stage of winter preparation is covering the blackberries for the winter . It is not difficult. It is necessary to remove the trellises, bend the stems to the soil, pin them in any way and cover them with spruce branches. If you ignore the need to prepare for winter, then there is no guarantee that the plant will survive the winter. Remember that shelter is extremely important in areas with cold winters.

Reproduction methods

Blackberries can be propagated using vegetative methods: suckers, layering, cuttings. It is allowed to propagate the crop using seeds and seedlings, but only for the purpose of preserving the varietal characteristics of the crop if necessary.

Reproduction by layering is performed according to the following algorithm:

  1. Prepare a furrow 15 cm deep (preferably in early August).
  2. A 1-year-old shoot is placed in it and covered with soil.
  3. Trim the shoot from the top by 10 cm to slow down growth.
  4. Place something heavy in the digging area or use wire.
  5. Mulch the soil with fallen leaves, rotted sawdust, etc.
  6. Provide regular watering.

Usually rooting occurs after 2 months. You can detach the new specimen from the mother plant, and then transplant the seedling to where it will grow. You can use the apical shoots to propagate the crop . To do this, the selected shoot bends towards the ground and digs in. Moreover, the tip needs to be cut off.

It is advisable to make an incision in the bark, which will be hidden underground, so that the new specimen will take root faster. As soon as the roots are formed, you can transplant the seedling to a place where it will grow constantly, but it is advisable to do this in the spring.

Cuttings are a popular way to get a new plant . The use of both root and green cuttings is allowed.

Root cuttings are performed as follows:

  1. A fruiting plant should be dug up by the roots at the end of autumn or in the spring after frosts have ended.
  2. Divide it into pieces so that at least 60 cm of the length of the root system of the main bush remains. The thickness of the cuttings should be more than 0.5 cm and the length more than 10 cm.
  3. The cuttings can be immediately planted where the crop will grow, bypassing the need to use a picking bed. There should be 20 cm between cuttings and 80 cm between rows.
  4. Watering should be carried out weekly until the roots appear; in the summer, weeding and loosening of the soil are performed.

After a year, the cuttings will acquire a developed root system and 2-3 shoots. Propagation of thornless varieties in this way is unacceptable, because blackberries will grow with thorns. Cuttings using shoots are performed in July. You need to cut off the top third of the branch. The cutting must have at least 1 leaf and 1 bud.

The branch is treated with any root growth stimulator, for example, Zircon or Kornevin . Then the cuttings are planted in a glass with soil (expanded clay, vermiculite and peat are used in equal parts). The containers are covered with polyethylene. After 1 month, roots form, and then replanting is performed.

Reproduction by offspring involves the use of young growth from the root, observed in bushes 3 or more years old. They need to be dug up with roots and a lump of earth in May, when the weather will definitely be warm. The height of the branch should be more than 10 cm. The young growth is seated on a picking bed to achieve growth.

When the plant grows (shoot thickness more than 8 cm, root length more than 15 cm), replanting is performed. This should be done in the fall, and mineral fertilizers must be added to the planting hole (in the fall it is extremely undesirable to use organic matter, since it is food for rodents and insects in the winter, which means that by spring the plant will be weakened).

Important! Hybrids and large-fruited blackberries do not produce offspring, which means this method of reproduction is not available to them.

Propagation by seed material can be sown in soil from equal parts of peat chips, light soil and wet sand.

For this:

  1. The seeds are kept in water for 3 hours, then the excess water is drained, and the seed material is wrapped in a damp cloth and kept for 3 days, periodically sprinkling with water.
  2. When the seeds swell, they are planted in the prepared soil, deepening to 8 mm.
  3. The soil needs to be compacted and well watered.
  4. Containers are sent to a place where the temperature is no more than +5°C for 2 months.
  5. It is important to maintain light soil moisture.
  6. After the specified time has passed, the containers are brought into a warm place, waiting for germination.

Remember that the signal for picking is the presence of 3 or more leaves on the seedlings.

Diseases and pests

Blackberries are susceptible to pests and diseases.

The most popular problems are the following:

  1. Fungal diseases, for example, gray, white, brown rot, rust, etc. Signs: the appearance of spots on different parts of the plant, deformation of stems and fruits, the presence of a gray coating. Treatment consists of treating the bushes with Bordeaux mixture, as well as using biological preparations, for example, Topsin M, Topaz, Trichodermin, etc.
  2. Viral diseases, for example, curl, yellow netting, mosaic, etc. Signs: spots of various types, deformation of leaves and stems, weakening of the plant. There are no effective methods to combat such diseases. Plants must be burned and the soil must be disinfected.
  3. Bacterial diseases, for example, stem or root canker, etc. The main symptom is the appearance of growths of various sizes. Treatment is impossible. The plants are burned and the soil is disinfected.
  4. Non-communicable diseases, such as burns or swelling, etc. The reason is improper care. Signs: weakness, twisting of plant parts, falling leaves, etc. For treatment, you need to determine the problem, for example, if there is a lack of nitrogen, this fertilizer is applied, etc.
  5. , etc. They eat the plant. Treatment is treatment with insecticides.

Prevention of diseases and pests - timely treatment of plants with insecticides and fungicides, application of fertilizing as necessary, compliance with care requirements.

Blackberries are an amazing berry crop, the cultivation of which is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It is enough to follow simple recommendations, and the bushes will delight you with an abundant and tasty harvest.

Arapaho blackberry

American blackberry varieties are among the most popular in the world. The Arapahoe blackberry, discovered by Arkansas scientists in 1993, is one of a large series of plants named after American Indian tribes. Among the thornless varieties, this variety is considered the earliest.

Berries weighing up to 7 grams ripen in the second half of July. Sweet fruits with black shiny skin have a wide conical shape and juicy pulp, the taste of which is practically not affected by small seeds.

Highly productive bushes are not afraid of diseases and can withstand frosts down to –24 °C.

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