Caring for blackberries in the fall and preparing for winter: pruning and covering

The owner of a private or country house with berry bushes on a plot of land needs to know how to prune blackberries in the fall for the winter. Treatment of branches is an important stage in plant care, on which the further growth of the bush and the number of fruits in the new season depend. When pruning, the type of shrub should be taken into account; after the procedure is completed, the plant is covered to prevent the negative effects of low temperatures.

When to prune blackberries - in autumn or spring

Caring for blackberries involves spring and autumn processing of branches. After the snow melts, the plant is inspected, during which frost-damaged branches or young shoots are shortened. The procedure is not mandatory and is not performed by all gardeners.

Autumn pruning involves removing branches that are 2 years old and that bore fruit in the summer. There is no rule defining the month or week of processing. For example, some owners process shrubs immediately after harvesting.

Fall pruning goals

Autumn processing of raspberries and blackberries allows you to:

Reduce the darkening of the central part of the bush with branches located around the perimeter. In winter, the lack of shoots reduces the plant's resistance to negative temperatures. In summer, excess foliage prevents ripening and reduces the quality of the berries located deep in the bush. With a lack of light, there is an accelerated upward growth of young shoots, which will have to be pruned in the warm season. Excessive greenery helps reduce the plant's resistance to fungal diseases.
Preserving an old vine that does not bear fruit impairs the supply of moisture and nutrients to young shoots from the soil. In addition, eliminating protruding branches allows you to achieve the correct configuration of the plant. The external design of the shrub in the form of a fan or weaving is allowed, while simultaneously separating the fruiting branches from the young shoots.
Additional branches increase the size of the bush and complicate the preparation for winter. Removing old vines helps reduce the size of the plant and reduces the cost of special protective material. For example, by autumn the height of individual stems reaches 2.5 m, and the vines are up to 4-5 m long. Preserving and covering such bushes is not economically feasible.
In the spring, a bush deprived of part of the vine forms new shoots faster. The root system supplies the branches with water and dissolved minerals, which increases yield and improves the taste characteristics of the fruit. Shortened shoots improve the conditions for picking berries, since a standard bush with thorns injures the gardener’s hands.
Shrub treatment allows you to remove branches damaged or affected by pests (insects or fungi).

When pruning bushes, it is necessary to use a sharpened tool; the work is carried out in dry weather. Gardeners recommend treating the hemp that remains after removing thick branches with a protective varnish. The sharp tool produces a flat cut that remains sealed within 24 hours.

But if precipitation is expected, it is recommended to treat the cuts with a protective compound that prevents rotting of the root part of the blackberry bushes.

Spring pruning

Spring pruning is done after the snow melts; the timing of processing shrubs depends on the region. For example, in the central regions of Russia the snow melts in early April, and in the northern regions the melting process starts 2-3 weeks later. The processing method depends on the shape and length of the shoots; gardeners recommend cutting blackberries in the spring to a height of 720-900 mm.

The cut tip promotes the appearance of lateral branches and an increase in the thickness of the main stem.

When is the best time to prune?

Pruning in spring, autumn and summer is carried out for various reasons, and has a beneficial effect on the condition of the bush. Spring pruning is carried out to remove branches that died during the winter. Thin, blackened and dry branches are removed. Pruning in autumn prepares the bush for the winter cold. Sanitary pruning in the fall includes the removal of all old and non-viable branches. In autumn, branches affected by pests and diseases are removed.

Timing for pruning in spring

The optimal period for pruning is early spring, when the last snow has melted and the temperature is no higher than five to seven degrees. During this period, the plant will survive the event painlessly. Pruning in spring is done before the first buds swell. In the southern regions of Russia, this period occurs from the beginning of March to mid-April. Gardeners in central regions prune at the end of April. In the northern regions, it is better to start pruning at the end of May.

Plant pruning diagram

Timing for pruning in autumn

I begin autumn pruning immediately after the end of the fruiting period. For most varieties this time occurs in mid-September. But there are ozhins with a two-wave period of fruiting; for them, the pruning period begins in October. How easy it will be for blackberries to overwinter depends on the quality of the pruning.

Proper pruning of plants in autumn

The importance and timing of autumn pruning of blackberries

The resulting blackberry shoots remain viable for 2 years and then stop bearing fruit. In the first year, fruit buds form and grow on the branch, and the next season flowers appear in place of the buds, which then degenerate into berries. As the shoots develop, the color of the bark gradually changes from green to brown or reddish. A similar development algorithm is typical for standard species, but there are remontant varieties with a different development cycle.

Blackberry stems retain leaves for the 3rd season, but bear tens of times less fruit than they did a year earlier. The branches continue to receive water and nutrients, worsening the development conditions for young shoots. For example, abandoned blackberry thickets continue to bear fruit without care, but degradation of the berries is observed, which become small and lose their taste. Removing excess shoots allows the redistribution of nutrient flows, allowing rapid growth of new branches and increasing yield.

The timing of processing garden blackberries in the fall is influenced by the following factors:

the type and variety of the plant, on which the period of fruit ripening depends;
the type of soil and terrain in which the bush is located;
climate zone;
method of cultivation and agrotechnical methods used.

You can prune shoots in the middle zone from August to early November (the date or week is not regulated). But you should take into account the likelihood of early winter (for example, in the Moscow region snow may fall in the second half of October). In the northern regions (Leningrad or Arkhangelsk regions), it is recommended to complete the work 20-30 days before the onset of cold weather (according to average data).

The cut parts are removed, in order to get a good harvest in the new season, it is necessary to insulate the shoots and root system remaining above the ground.

Main varieties of blackberries

On the territory of the Russian Federation the following are widespread:

bramble;
dewberry;
remontant blackberry.

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Distinctive features of brambles

Cumanica or bushy blackberry is a variety with straight vertical branches that grow 2.5 m from the ground surface. As it grows, the mass of the shoot increases and begins to bend towards the ground. To prevent a negative effect, supporting devices (trellises) are constructed on which the lashes are fixed in a fan pattern.

The plant is distinguished by the presence of thorns, the fruits have a cylindrical configuration and are painted in a shiny black color.

The shrub can withstand low temperatures, but to protect the branches and obtain maximum yield, it is recommended to cover the bushes for the winter. The bramble reproduces by offspring that appear on the root part. The following varieties of blackberries are classified as brambles: Apache, Agawam and Ruben.

Climbing blackberry

A creeping variety called dewberry, or climbing blackberry, has become widespread. The plant resembles wild varieties and is distinguished by vines up to 5 m long, which spread over the surface of the soil and entwine vertical surfaces. It is recommended to install supports for branches; there are varieties with and without thorns. In the central and northern regions, zoned varieties are planted that can withstand temperature drops.

The advantage of the plants is their resistance to short droughts and the ability to bear fruit when the branches are in shaded areas. The fruits have an oblong configuration and are colored matte blue-violet. The taste of the berries is higher than that of bramble. For propagation, seeds or tops of annual shoots that take root in the soil are used. Common varieties include Texas, Lucretia and Oregon Thornless.

Remontant varieties

Remontant varieties are distinguished by their ability to produce 2 harvests in one season. Annual shrubs produce berries in the first fall after planting, and in the subsequent season fruits appear on the same branches again (in the second half of June or early July).

The emerging young shoots begin to bear fruit in September.

An additional advantage is that the lashes are short and do not require support. The varieties have increased resistance to negative temperatures; wintering is allowed without additional insulation.

Blackberry varieties

Experienced and even novice gardeners have an idea about the varieties of blackberries that they have chosen or are planning to buy for new plantings. The problem seems to be that in our case they should be considered precisely from the point of view of pruning them for the winter.

More than 300 known varieties of garden blackberries are complex interspecific hybrids and are divided into groups:

Cumanica or Straight-growing blackberry is a biological relative of raspberries. Its powerful, strongly thorny shoots reach a height of 3-4 meters, often ending in arched tops. The variety reproduces by root suckers and is characterized by winter hardiness. Berries ripen on average 2.5-4 grams.
Creeping blackberry or dewberry - grows with creeping long shoots, densely equipped with thorns, which make all care difficult, which is compensated by a rich harvest of large fruits: weighing 6-12 grams. It propagates by the tips and does not produce root shoots.
Semi-cresting Blackberry - develops long creeping stems, devoid of thorns. It can be propagated by small root shoots and replacement shoot tips. The fruits are large, weighing up to 6 grams.

There are also raspberry-blackberry hybrids in the culture - the result of crossing related plants. These hybrids are creeping subshrubs with thorny stems, but thornless clones are also found. Their cultivation is the same type as Rosyanika. Dewberries, semi-creeping blackberries and raspberry-blackberry hybrids are varieties of low winter hardiness and need timely, proper shelter in regions with long frosty winters.

General scheme for pruning blackberries for the winter for beginners

Pruning blackberries in the fall is a difficult process for beginning gardeners. It should be remembered that the next year’s harvest depends on the correctness of the procedure; an incorrectly pruned shrub may not survive the winter. To cut branches, you need to prepare pruners and pliers to remove branches. If there are blackberry thickets on the site with woody shoots with a diameter of more than 15 mm, then it is recommended to prepare a hacksaw.

All work is carried out in protective clothing, since touching the thorny stem can cause damage to the skin.

Before performing work, the tool is checked. It is recommended to remove damage from the cutting surface; the saw teeth must be set at a given angle. If the hacksaw teeth are positioned incorrectly, the cut will be torn. A working pruner should cut shoots up to 15 mm thick; breaking or getting stuck of wood between the cutting edges is not allowed. During operation, the tool is held with both hands at a fixed angle; the cut line should not have any irregularities.

The pruning scheme includes the following steps:

Removing old shoots that contained berries.
Reduction in the number of young branches grown during the spring-summer period.
Pruning the remaining young shoots.
Pruning areas of the bush affected by fungal diseases or insects.
Applying a layer that protects the roots and stems of the bush from frost.

If classic blackberries with thorns are planted on the site, the shoots intertwine with each other, which complicates the process of separating them during autumn processing. It is recommended to install trellises (supports) in the spring, which allow you to separate overwintered branches and new shoots. The lower part of the trellises is intended for attaching young shoots, and adult shoots are fixed to the trellises of the upper row. With the onset of autumn, the gardener easily cuts out the old branches, and after additional processing, presses the young ones to the surface of the soil.

When planting creeping varieties, it is necessary to separate the old and new vines in different directions. The branches are attached to the stretched trellises, regardless of the distance of the supports from the ground. In the fall, a visual assessment of the bush is made, the gardener removes the section, which consists of branches that are not capable of further fruiting. If the breeding procedure is not completed, then it is difficult to divide an overgrown bush. In this case, you will have to bite off and separate the old branches one by one, which takes a lot of time.

Removing fruit-bearing branches

If the owner of the site decides to prune blackberries for the winter, then the first stage involves removing the branches on which the berries were located. The twigs are distinguished by a brownish-brown tint (fresh shoots have a light greenish or light brown bark). An additional sign of last year's or fruit-bearing branches are the remains of inflorescences or stalks from berries. The stems are removed with pruning shears, the blade passing over the soil. It is not recommended to leave part of the shoot (“stump”), as it may begin to rot if exposed to moisture.

Thinning young branches

Since the bush contains young shoots, it is necessary to remove some of the stems. It is recommended to cut off branches that have not had time to grow during the spring and summer periods. If the bush has grown evenly, then you need to partially cut out the stems, keeping 5-8 branches. It is recommended to preserve the shoots that have the greatest height and without damage to the bark. In the northern regions or for safety reasons (for example, in case of a cold winter), additional branches are left. In this case, repeated treatment is carried out in the spring to remove excess growth.

Shortening young stems

The remaining young branches must be cut off along the upper edge by 25% of the length. A novice gardener needs to know how to properly prune blackberries in the fall to avoid fungi from penetrating the inside of the shoots. The cut points are covered with a layer of mastic or garden varnish, which has a protective and antiseptic effect. If during the spring inspection branches are found frozen or damaged by fungi (they have a dark color and brittle structure), then they are cut off at the base with pruning shears or a hacksaw.

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Removing a diseased lash

In the autumn, bushes are inspected to find vines affected by harmful insects or mold. Such shoots will not withstand winter and temperature changes, and insect larvae and fungal spores present deep in the stems will be transferred to healthy parts of the bush. The vines and vines cut off at the root are disposed of; experienced gardeners recommend burning infected branches. Otherwise, pests may spread throughout the entire area.

Features of preparing blackberries for winter

More than 300 varieties of blackberries are known. The main species are Kumanika, Dewberry, Creeping. Without thorns, these are hybrid varieties. When preparing berry bushes, their age is taken into account. Hybrids require a special approach.

Blackberry without thorns

This type of blackberry is popular among gardeners. Its main advantage is the absence of thorns and the ability to easily and quickly harvest.

Varieties without thorns are more susceptible to freezing. Therefore, when preparing for winter, they need to be covered with a double layer of agrofibre.

Young bush

The method of covering blackberries for the winter depends on its type. The creeping plant can be laid in a previously prepared trench and covered with several layers of protective material.

The branches of erect blackberries begin to bend to the ground even when the air temperature is above 0 degrees. The thin stems can be laid on the ground easily and are highly flexible. And the fat ones bend down in several steps.

Important! To bend thick stems, weights are tied to them, which pull them down.

old bush

In order to have a good harvest of berries at the end of summer, the old bush must be rejuvenated before covering it for the winter. To do this, cut off dry, diseased, weakened branches. Cuts should be made closer to the base of the bush.

Shoots should also be removed if the bush has grown greatly. Excessive thickening creates a favorable environment for the proliferation of pathogens. After removing excess stems, the bush is carefully covered, and so the garden blackberry overwinters until spring.

How you prepare blackberries in the fall determines how they will bear fruit next year. If the preparation of blackberries for winter is successful, the plant will survive the frosts well, and at the end of summer, gardeners will be able to enjoy a bountiful harvest of tasty and juicy berries.

Feeding with fertilizers after pruning

After pruning, it is necessary to water the root system with water and then apply organic fertilizers. It is recommended to use a combined mixture consisting of 6 kg of compost or humus, 100 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium fertilizer (not containing a chlorine-based compound). The proportions are indicated for 1 blackberry bush; the materials are not mixed, but are applied to the base of the plant (circle around the stem) sequentially. At the first stage, organic material is laid, and then a mineral substance is poured on top in a thin layer.

The fertilizer is embedded into the soil with a pitchfork to a depth of 100 mm, which improves the fertilizing process. The addition of substances containing potassium and phosphorus helps to increase the resistance of the root system and branches to the effects of negative temperatures. Treatment with liquid reagents that eliminate fungal diseases is carried out after the leaves fall, but before pruning the shoots. If the autumn is warm and dry, then before laying frost protection, the soil is moistened; it is recommended to add up to 20 liters of water under each bush.

To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, an aqueous 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used. The material is applied by spray to the surface of the branches and soil at the base of the bush in the autumn (after the leaves have fallen). To increase the efficiency of processing, the tree trunk circle is dug up. If in the spring-summer period there was severe damage to blackberries by insects or fungi, then after fruiting and harvesting, the damaged shoots are removed. Then the bushes are treated with preparations containing insecticides or fungicides.

Another method of protecting shrubs from pests that winter in the ground is to treat the surface of the bush and soil with an aqueous solution of copper sulfate or hydrogen peroxide (reagent concentration 3%). To apply the chemical, a sprayer is used, the liquid is evenly applied to the top of the bush, and then the soil is treated. Hydrogen peroxide has a positive effect on the root system, providing the plant with additional oxygen.

Formation and placement of lashes

There are blackberry bushes with creeping and erect stems, thornless varieties and with numerous straight or curved thorns. As the berry bushes grow and develop, young vines are tied to a support. Blackberry bushes should not grow in a free direction.

Without a garter, long young and old stems intertwine, which complicates the work when forming a bush. On creeping varieties that are located on the ground, the vines will quickly take root and the berries will rot. The use of special trellises makes pruning and harvesting easier.

There are two methods of forming a bush:

The fan (vertical) method is used for upright species. The stems of the plant are fixed on a fan-shaped support. Last year's branches are tied vertically, young shoots are placed horizontally on the sides. After harvesting, the ribs of the fan are trimmed above the ground. The central old branches are removed at the root, new shoots are collected in a bunch, shortened to a height of 1.5 m and loosely fixed on a trellis.
The rope (horizontal) method is suitable for the formation of clinging and creeping species. Long flexible stems are wound in a spiral around a support on one side, and growing shoots are similarly secured on the other side. With this method of gartering, fruit harvesting will alternate every year. In autumn, fruit-bearing vines and weak and damaged young shoots are completely cut off.

Features of pruning thornless and remontant blackberries

If there are blackberries without thorns on the site, then the gardener needs to know when it is best to treat the bush. In addition to autumn pruning, spring and summer inspections are carried out to remove dried or pest-affected branches. When processing Black Satin blackberries in summer, it is necessary to regularly trim the tips of the shoots by 100 mm with pruning shears. The procedure is performed when the branches reach a height of 1100 mm (without garter). If the gardener has provided trellises, then the shoots are cut off after they have outgrown the height of the supports by 200 mm.

The technique of regularly shortening the tips of branches is called pinching the tips; only young (one-year-old) shoots are treated. Side branches must be processed at the end of winter or early spring (before the buds swell). Lateral growths (laterals) appear on the one-year-old shoot after trimming the tips. It is recommended to maintain the length of the laterals at the level of 400-450 mm, which reduces the overgrowth of the bush with the formation of shaded areas. In an overgrown bush, areas with high humidity may form.

Spring processing of the Black Satin variety involves the removal of side branches located at a height of up to 450 mm from the ground surface. The lower tiers are characterized by reduced fruiting, but consume water with mineral and organic substances dissolved in it, reducing the rate of ripening of berries in the upper part of the plant. After the leaves appear and flowering begins, the bush is observed. Berries form on last year's shoots, and at the same time new branches should appear from the soil.

After the berries ripen, the harvest is carried out, then at the end of September or at the beginning of November it is necessary to cut off the 2-year-old branches (by analogy with standard prickly blackberries). Pruning is done to the ground level; leaving long canes is not recommended due to the risk of rotting. Then the bush is covered with a protective layer that protects the wood from exposure to negative temperatures. With the arrival of spring, a new cycle of lateral pruning begins; treatment is necessary throughout the entire life of blackberries of the Black Satin or Loch Tay varieties.

It should be remembered that plants can withstand short-term drops in air temperature to -20°C, but traces of frostbite may appear on the surface of the shoots. To prevent the death of the bush, it is necessary to remove the branches from the support wire and then lay them on the ground. The procedure is performed before the first autumn frost, a layer of dry leaves or straw is placed on top. The material is protected from the wind with film or pieces of slate. The protection is removed in the spring until the buds begin to bud, which can begin to rot deep in the layer of foliage or straw.

Processing of remontant species

Pruning of remontant blackberries is carried out in the second half of September or early October (the period is selected according to climatic conditions). It is not recommended to rush into processing immediately after fruiting has stopped. An initial inspection of the bushes allows you to identify diseased or damaged lashes (for example, broken ones), which are trimmed with pruning shears at ground level. You should not leave long fragments, since water and nutrients will be consumed to maintain life.

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Further actions depend on the characteristics of the blackberry variety:

For creeping varieties, it is recommended to select up to 10 stems that have maximum strength.
For an upright shrub, it is necessary to save up to 5 branches, which are cut off along the upper edge by 25% of the length.

It is possible to save an additional 2-3 shoots for insurance, since it is unknown how the blackberry bush will withstand the effects of snow and low temperatures. If the gardener wants to get an early harvest, then partial preservation of the shoots is possible. But the difficulties with preserving plants in winter should be taken into account. In addition, fungal spores and pest larvae remain on the shoots, which can destroy blackberries in the spring.

When pruning, up to 95% of harmful insects are removed, which are then burned along with the branches or taken outside the site.

Description of blackberry

Garden blackberries belong to the Rosaceae family, genus Rubus. In appearance it is a shrub or shrubby vine. Under natural conditions, blackberries grow in the northern and temperate latitudes of the Eurasian continent - in forests and floodplains, as well as in North America. Unfortunately, in Europe blackberries have not received the status of an “industrial” berry, while in America they are grown over large areas.

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According to the nature of shoot growth, garden blackberries are usually divided into erect and creeping or creeping.

The underground part of the plant is perennial, and the aboveground part is biennial. In many ways, this berry is similar to raspberries.

Blackberries, like raspberries, are a complex drupe. Leaves - with three, five or seven leaflets. Annual shoots are green in color with a reddish or brownish tint. There are thorns. Recently, thornless varieties of garden blackberries have been developed, which greatly simplifies care. Breeders are creating more and more varieties with different berry ripening periods.

The inflorescences are a long or short raceme. During the ripening process, blackberries first acquire a green, then red-brown color. When ripe, the berries are black or black-purple in color.

Creeping blackberries have juicier and larger fruits than erect ones.

Blackberries collected in the forest are inferior in size and taste to garden ones, although they are also useful. Harvest - once a year. It is worth noting that the harvest can take 2-3 weeks, so it is customary to say that blackberries produce their harvest gradually. The maximum yield can be obtained in the 4-5th year of fruiting.

The berry is good not only when eaten fresh. It makes excellent jams, preserves, desserts, ice cream, and marmalade. She is also good at baking. Blackberry cake and pastries are a real decoration for the holiday table.

Garden blackberries have the ability to multiply very quickly. This berry quickly conquers space, so the area for it should be carefully prepared. Blackberries reproduce by suckers and layering.

Features of autumn pruning of Thornfree blackberries for a good harvest

The initial pruning of Thornfree thornless blackberries is carried out 2 years after planting the bushes, then the care procedure becomes daily. To perform the work, garden pruners and a hacksaw are used. In autumn, a standard cutting of old branches at the root is performed, and young shoots are shortened by 30-35%. The described technique is the most popular among amateur gardeners. The Thornfree variety does not withstand winter frosts, so covering the bush is a mandatory procedure.

For protection use:

Natural materials (for example, straw or pine branches) that provide fresh air to the blackberry bushes located deep in the layer. Since the protection can be destroyed by the wind, slate scraps or sheets of synthetic fiber are laid on top.
Synthetic materials (for example, spunbond) that do not degrade when exposed to sunlight and withstand cyclic changes in ambient temperature. The film has pores through which fresh air enters; the material is attached to the soil surface using improvised devices.
Low cost polyethylene film. The use of polyethylene is not recommended for experienced gardeners, since the synthetic material does not allow air to pass through to the protected plants. When there are gusts of wind, the film may be destroyed, so site owners use material with increased thickness and increased strength. Polyethylene is used in areas with increased snow depth; in other regions the film should not be used.

To hold the shoots, a stretched wire (trellis) is used; the branches are secured using a soft material that is resistant to precipitation and ultraviolet radiation (for example, nylon tape). It is not recommended to use plastic clamps or wire in insulation, since damage to the outer surface of the processes may occur. In the spring-summer period, it is necessary to wait until the new branches reach a height of 600 mm and pinch the tips. The bush produces side shoots that need to be pinched when it reaches a length of 500-550 mm.

Pruning branches does not guarantee a high yield; Thornfree blackberries require additional treatment against pests. After the buds open, an aqueous solution of nitrophen is sprayed (the chemical concentration is 1%), which destroys the larvae and adults of aphids and gall mites. Then it is necessary to loosen the soil around the base of the bush, reagents are introduced into the soil to destroy cockchafers and mole crickets. Additional autumn treatment with a 3% aqueous solution of Bordeaux mixture eliminates fungal diseases.

Planting and forming bushes

It is unlikely that there will be a plant as thorny as the blackberry in the garden. Its thorns cause problems not only during harvesting, but also during crown formation. Of course, autumn pruning of thornless blackberries is much easier than removing excess shoots from their thorny counterparts. But the varieties of this variety are not characterized by high yield and winter hardiness, so gardeners prefer to grow the “spiny” species .

To further facilitate the pruning procedure, you should take a responsible approach to choosing a planting site . Blackberries love good light and will bear fruit well in partial shade or sun. But the lack of light will negatively affect the yield of the bush, the berries will become smaller and their taste will deteriorate. Young branches will reach towards the sun and further shade the fruitful shoots. The increase in green mass can last until autumn, due to which the winter hardiness of the plant will noticeably decrease.

It is also worth keeping in mind that blackberries do not like waterlogging, so the bed should be located on a hill where flooding by melt or rainwater is excluded. Groundwater must be located at a depth of at least 1.5 meters, otherwise the bush may die.

Although blackberries are a frost-resistant plant, they will have a hard time in the harsh winter. Therefore, for planting it is worth finding a place that is well lit and protected from drafts and winds . This will help the bush to successfully overwinter.

Like raspberries, blackberries are placed in a separate area, at a distance from other plantings. It is recommended to separate the bed with a box, and dig beams along its edges to construct a lattice (trellis), which will serve as a support for the bushes.

In order to be able to freely approach each bush in the future, you will have to maintain a distance . Creeping varieties are planted at a distance of 4.5 meters from each other, and erect varieties - 3.5 meters. This spacing will allow the shoots to be attached to the trellis, as well as allow them to move freely between plants. This will greatly facilitate harvesting, pruning and other care procedures.

It will be more convenient to perform all autumn operations to remove excess branches if you give the bush the desired shape in a timely manner. The method of formation will depend on the plant variety (creeping, erect). There are three methods: fan, weave and rope.

Fan arrangement of the crown

Of course, upright blackberries are frost-resistant, but it is still better to hide them under snow for the winter. But this task is complicated by the branches of the plant - they bend poorly and are very brittle. A fan-shaped crown formation will help solve this problem

In spring, lignified blackberry branches are lifted from the ground and placed on a trellis in a vertical position. They are fixed in the middle of the trellis, just above the roots.
Young shoots are tied to the lower parts of the lattice so that they grow horizontally, that is, parallel to the ground.
In the fall, it will be convenient to cut off everything unnecessary without removing the necessary branches. All central shoots are cut off at the root, and the creeping lateral shoots are not touched.
The slightly bending side branches grew almost in a recumbent state all summer, so by autumn they managed to acquire a horizontal shape. Among them, about 10 of the strongest are selected, and the rest are cut off.
Overwintering branches are shortened a little, after which they are pressed to the ground and covered.
In the spring, after these shoots have warmed up and become more flexible, they are attached to a support in a vertical position.

This method of formation will allow you to move freely between bushes and remove shoots after fruiting, without fear of getting hurt on sharp thorns. As a rule, these are central branches, while the side branches are simply shortened and prepared for wintering.

Weaving and rope

Rope and wicker placement of shoots is used for creeping forms that have branches 10 meters long. These methods are very similar, but in the second case, the overwintered stems are divided into two equal bundles, which are then twisted together to give the branches stability.

But if there are very few shoots, then they are simply collected to form a rope.

Formation technology:

The branches are collected using one of the methods described above.
They are wound on the grid, like on a reel.
If excess branches were not removed in the summer, then this is done in the fall. The 8 strongest ones are left, and the rest are cut off.
The fruiting vine is cut out at the root.
Trenches are dug along the beds, into which bushes taken from the supports are placed.

These bush shaping techniques help you prune without fear of sharp thorns. The gardener does not need to wade through thorny branches to remove excess ones. Varieties without thorns, of course, win in this matter; they do not need to be carefully untangled in the spring, and before wintering, lay lashes reminiscent of barbed wire.

Separately, it is worth highlighting remontant varieties. Pruning them is perhaps the simplest procedure of all plant care. All shoots that have grown during the season are cut off at the root and only the root system is covered for the winter. Next spring it will grow fruitful branches again.

Features of pruning creeping blackberries

If creeping bushes are planted on the site, then you need to follow the steps step by step:

Inspect the plants, and then use pruning shears to remove weakened stems that grew in the summer of the current year.
Cut off growth affected by pests.
Shorten the remaining shoots by 20-25% of the length. Some gardeners leave additional branches, which ensure the preservation of a supply of nutrients in the winter.

When processing creeping blackberries, it is necessary to take into account that the branches of the bush are characterized by increased fragility. Before starting processing, it is necessary to remove the vine from the supports and then level it over the surface of the soil. If you start cutting the shoots right away, you may cause irreversible damage to the bush, which will not withstand freezing temperatures and will dry out. The gardener needs to know whether it is necessary to provide additional plant protection for the winter. In the southern regions, there is no need to cover the bushes, since the temperature does not fall below -5°C.

In the middle zone and northern regions, it is necessary to carefully bend the vine to the surface of the soil, and then install metal brackets. A layer of organic materials of natural origin is placed on top (for example, hay or straw, it is allowed to use sawdust or fallen leaves), agricultural fiber (a film made of synthetic material that is resistant to external climatic and natural influences).

When using agrofibre, it is necessary to fill the air gap between the film, soil and protected bushes. Spruce branches or hay, peat or corn tops, fallen leaves or wood shavings and sawdust are used as insulation. It is possible to mulch the soil around the perimeter of the tree trunk circle, which allows you to create a protective air layer. Then pre-trimmed blackberry shoots are laid on top.

Trimming steps

There is a general scheme for carrying out work, following which you can achieve good results. The formation of plantings should consist of the following mandatory steps.

Step 1. The initial task will be to remove the fertile two-year-olds immediately after picking the berries. They will need to be cut down to the very root. It is not difficult to distinguish two-year-old branches from young ones - new shoots have a greenish or light brown color, last year's ones are dark brown.

Also a sign that the shoot is old will be the presence of dry inflorescences and stalks on it. The cutting location should be above the bud; the formation of stumps on the bushes, which are prone to rotting, should be avoided.

Step 2. The next stage of cutting will be the manipulation of annual shoots. Among the young branches, you need to sort - remove thin and non-viable, as well as too short wattles from the bush. Next, thinning is carried out among the green branches, leaving approximately the same amount on each side to evenly distribute the load on the bush.

Branches growing in the center of the crown of an adult bush should be shortened to 2 m. This size will be most suitable for picking berries. The length of side shoots should be no more than 60 cm.

Step 3 . The final stage of work will be the disposal of damaged branches that will not survive the winter. Inspecting such parts of the plant will help not only remove non-viable shoots, but also identify signs of pests.

All excess parts of the bush must be taken out of the garden and burned. Last year's foliage must also be collected and destroyed. It is not recommended to use it as a mulch layer, since it can become a suitable environment for wintering and breeding of pests.

Types of pruning

The algorithm for autumn pruning of blackberries may vary depending on the type of berry crop being grown. Today, gardeners cultivate erect, creeping and remontant varieties. They differ in the shape of the crown, the timing of fruiting and ripening of berries, and therefore require an individual approach to the formation of the above-ground part.

Upright varieties . Such plants must be trimmed before the arrival of calendar autumn. Therefore, it is recommended to start working in the garden immediately after collecting the last berries.

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

in the central part of the bush, all fruit-bearing wattles are removed to the roots;
Among the shoots of this year, 7-10 of the healthiest specimens are selected, the rest will need to be cut out flush with the ground;
the remaining annual fences are shortened by a quarter;
the sections are treated with garden varnish for speedy healing.

You should not leave too powerful shoots on the plant, which are characterized by low flexibility. In the process of covering the plantings for the winter by bending them down, they can simply be broken.

Creeping varieties. As a rule, such varieties are grown in the garden on string trellises. In this option, the blackberry crown is distributed on two sides - the young shoots are on one side, and the overwintered wattles are directed in the opposite direction.

In autumn, crown formation is carried out according to the following scheme:

after collecting the last wave of berries, two-year-olds are cut off completely;
about 6-8 young yearlings are selected, which are shortened by a quarter;
excess parts of the bush are removed, the cuts are treated with garden varnish.

Creeping plantings are distinguished by their ability to form shoots, the length of which can reach up to 10 m, therefore the number and size of fruiting parts on the bushes should be strictly regulated. This will help the plant not to expend energy on increasing the size of the branches, but to redirect it to the formation of wood and ripening of the crop.

Remontant varieties. A special feature of this blackberry is its ability to bear fruit already on one-year-old shoots, which develop after removing the covering material in the spring. Also, on remontant shrubs, it will be possible to harvest before the first frost arrives. In light of such characteristics, such crops are pruned differently from erect or creeping forms.

The rules for crown formation are quite simple. After the first drop in temperature to negative values, the entire shrub is cut out at the root, and the root zone is covered with a layer of mulch. In regions with harsh climates, agrofibre or burlap can additionally be used.

Cultivation care

Caring for fruit-bearing bushes in mid-autumn helps the plant to get stronger, preserve as many shoots as possible for the next season and lay fruit buds on young shoots.

Blackberry care in autumn:

pruning;
feeding;
shelter.

Pruning rules

The scheme and complexity of the work depends on the age of the branches, variety and type of crop. Upright bushes form a large number of shoots from the underground part. Trimming the top promotes the growth of side stems on which flower buds will form and fruits will ripen.

Creeping, highly branching species do not form root shoots, but form numerous lateral fruit shoots. During the summer, vines more than 10 m long become densely intertwined, creating difficulties when caring for the plant.

Before pruning, the plant is inspected and the condition of the growth is determined. Healthy lashes are brown, shiny, bend easily and do not break. At the stage of bush formation, the intertwined stems are separated and the fruit-bearing branches are separated from the young ones. Creeping varieties are removed from the trellis and laid on the ground. 5-10 strong shoots are left for the winter. They are marked with fabric tape so as not to be accidentally cut off.

How to prune blackberries for the winter:

Using pruners, fruit-bearing branches are completely removed. They are cut at the root, without leaving the ends on the soil surface.
Broken young branches, thin, too short, damaged and disease-infected shoots are pruned.
In remontant varieties, all branches below ground level are cut off.
To form side shoots, annual stems are pinched immediately above the buds, straight varieties at a height of 2 m, creeping varieties - 3 m.
When thinning bushes of upright varieties, 4-7 strong shoots are left and 8-10 on creeping varieties. The distance between shoots should be 8-10 cm.
Ripened young stems are cut by ¼, collected in a bunch, and fixed on the ground or a low support.
Stems that will overwinter without shelter are shortened to the same height - from 1.5 to 1.8 m.

Pre-winter watering and fertilizing

After removing the shoots, the blackberries are fed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Compost with the addition of superphosphate is dug under each bush. Carefully dig the soil under the thornless blackberry bushes. If the root system is damaged, sprouts with thorns may appear on some varieties.

Important!

Nitrogen should not be used. Nitrogen fertilizing stimulates shoot growth, which is undesirable in the pre-winter period.

If the autumn is warm and without rain, the blackberries are watered abundantly before sheltering. At least 20 liters of water are poured under each bush. The soil will maintain high humidity, the root system will continue to grow and the plant will not weaken by winter.

To protect the blackberry bush from pests hiding in the soil for the winter, copper sulfate or a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution is used. The above-ground part of the plant is sprayed with the liquid and the soil is disinfected. For blackberry roots, peroxide serves as a useful fertilizer, enriching them with oxygen.

Bush cover

Cultivated varieties are less resistant to severe frosts than shrubs in the forest. Blackberries grown and brought from the northern regions tolerate winter well. Creeping species can withstand temperatures down to -16 °C, while upright growing ones can withstand temperatures down to -20 °C. Before sheltering, fallen leaves are raked from under the bushes, and the beds are mulched with dry humus. Blackberry stems are bent to the ground, placed in a trench on prepared litter, and fixed with hooks to the soil or metal arches. The bedding is made of pine needles, grass cuttings, thin branches, and bark.

Creeping species easily bend and curl into a circle, while straight-growing branches do not lend themselves to sharp bends and can be broken. To avoid damaging the plant, after pruning, a weight is secured to the tops of the stems. Under the weight, the branches will gradually bend and fall to the ground. They are tied with twine, treated with copper sulfate, and pressed on top with boards.

For the top cover, agrofibre or organic insulation (corn, straw, wood shavings, reeds, leaves, grass) is used. Film is not suitable as the main cover. It is spread with an additional top layer on insulating material to protect it from moisture. Organic insulation retains heat well, but in the spring it is difficult to rake moldy and damp plants out of the thorny bushes.

In winter, wet foliage attracts rodents, which damage young blackberry stems. To do this, a pest seed is placed in the middle of the bush. Insulation made from pine needles, spruce and pine branches prevents pests from infesting. The spruce branches are placed on the plant together with film or agrofibre.

Thornless varieties are covered with green manure, for the winter - with peat and 4-5 layers of dense spunbond. The non-woven material is dug in or pressed down with long boards.

The future harvest depends on autumn work in the garden. Timely care of blackberries and control of shoot growth allows you to collect from 1.2 to 1.6 kg of tasty and medicinal berries from each bush next year.

Cover rules

To preserve the bushes in winter and prevent them from freezing, you need to cover the blackberries. This is important because the plant is not resistant to sub-zero temperatures and bears fruit only on the shoots of the second year.

Attention! Shelter for the winter is not required for the southern regions of Russia.

It is also necessary to cover those varieties of blackberries that are cold-resistant.

When to cover blackberries

It will be right to cover the bush when the thermometer begins to drop to -5°C at night, and during the day the temperature tends to zero. In other words, blackberries begin to be insulated with the onset of stable frosts.

But you need to prepare it for shelter (gather the branches in bunches, wrap them with rope and bend them down a little) no later than 1–2 weeks before severe cold, because... Frost will cause the shoots to become brittle.

How to cover blackberries

Non-woven white material or agrofibre is suitable as a cover for the plant. Lutrasil and spunbond can play its role.

But it will be better for blackberries if you create an air gap between the crop, soil and shelter, and not just cover the branches with non-woven material. For this, spruce branches, corn tops, hay, straw, etc. are used.

Should leaves be removed?

Many gardeners are convinced that blackberries should be left to overwinter along with green foliage. But if there are a lot of leaves, the bush may begin to rot, which will lead to the loss of fruitful shoots. Therefore, it is still better to cut off the foliage, stepping back a little from the trunk.