How to store lily bulbs in the refrigerator before planting in winter? How to choose a lily bulb for winter storage?

Lilies are the most beautiful flowers, known for more than a thousand years. They carry extraordinary beauty and pure energy. There are many varieties of lilies that differ in color, flower shape, and aroma. These wonderful flowers can be seen in landscape landscaping; they are the main decorative attribute. But novice gardeners are afraid to grow flowers on the plot, believing that flowers are too capricious. This is wrong. If you know how to store lilies in winter at home, breeding fragrant beauties will not be difficult.

Storage conditions for lily bulbs in winter

Compliance with storage conditions will help preserve lily bulbs for the winter without loss.

It is necessary to maintain optimal temperature conditions.
The room where the bulbs will be stored must be sufficiently humid, otherwise they will lose moisture and shrink.
If the humidity in the room is very high, the bulbs may germinate prematurely or begin to rot.
The room must be ventilated. Without access to fresh air, mold and all kinds of fungi may appear on the bulbs, which will then lead to the development of the disease.

Preface

Experienced gardeners know various ways to store lily bulbs in winter: you can keep the planting material in the refrigerator, in a bag of peat, or in open ground under deep snowdrifts until spring. Choose the method of storing bulbs that seems most convenient to you.

The storage location should not be too dry so that the bulbs do not lose moisture and wrinkle

Basic conditions for proper storage of bulbs:

the storage place should not be too dry so that the bulbs do not lose moisture and wrinkle;
Excessive moisture may cause the bulbs to become moldy and hatch at the wrong time;
the temperature should be optimal - not low (the bulbs will freeze) and not high (the bulbs will begin to grow early);
It is necessary to ensure sufficient ventilation of the storage area so that the bulbs are not exposed to various diseases and do not become moldy.

How to prepare lily bulbs for storage

Experienced gardeners do not recommend trimming the foliage of lilies and stems after flowering. This will allow the bulbs to be saturated with useful substances for flowering in the summer. As soon as the shoots wither, and this happens in late autumn, you can start harvesting. After the period of planting a lily flower, it takes 1.5 months to rest. After flowering, the ovary must be cut off.

The signal for digging lily bulbs out of the soil for storage is the first winter frosts. At this time, cut off the dry stem, leaving about five centimeters. For digging, use a pitchfork, not a shovel. They make a neat slit in a circle, and then carefully remove the bulb from the soil. It is shaken off the ground, then washed under cold water. The bulbs are placed loosely in a container to dry. Some gardeners place moss between the bulbs.

It is recommended to conduct a thorough inspection of the flowers for the presence of affected and putrefactive areas and diseases. Damaged material must be sifted out. Place the tray with the bulbs in a cool, dark place, where they can dry out in two days; if the temperature is too high, mold and mildew may form.

After drying, the bulbs must be sprayed with fungicidal powder. The prepared planting material is placed in paper bags; you can simply wrap each lily in newspaper several times. The bulbs are placed in a cardboard box along with moss or sawdust, in which holes need to be made for ventilation. The place for wintering can be any - balcony, basement, garage.

You may be interested in: Lilies: preparation for winter, pruning

Transplanting lilies to another place in the fall

Lilies are transplanted once every 4-5 years. If you do this less often, the bulbs form nests - they become heavily overgrown with children, who are cramped and lack nutrition. Asian and LA hybrids are planted once every three years.

When to replant lilies - in spring or autumn? Lilies are replanted after the end of the growing season, waiting a month for the bulbs to recover after flowering. In the north of Russia, the best time to divide the bulbs and transplant them to a new place is early autumn - the end of August and the beginning of September. In the middle zone, it is better to do this in mid-autumn - all of September and early October, in the south of Russia, Ukraine and Moldova - in October-November. Actually, the timing of dividing the bulbs and transplanting them to a new place coincides with the timing of the primary autumn planting of lilies.

In the photo: How a lily blooms in a flowerbed

Lily bulbs are dug out of the ground, divided, processed, stored until the right moment, and then planted in the ground in the way we have already described.

How to preserve lilies for the winter. Storage methods

How to preserve lily bulbs before planting? There are several storage options. If the plant has sprouted, but it is too early to plant it, you need to plant it in flowerpots. Then place in a cool, well-lit place to slow down growth.

You can place the bulbs in plastic bags, puncturing small holes in them to allow air to enter. A layer of peat is placed at the bottom, with lilies on them. There must be a peat layer of at least 10 cm between the plants. The bag is tied, placed in a container or cardboard box and placed in a storage place.

Peat planting pots are also suitable for storage. The containers are placed in a container and placed for storage in the selected location. The method is the most practical and convenient, since planting can be done immediately along with the pots. Before planting, place the flowerpots in a warm, illuminated place and begin watering.

Reproduction during storage

In winter, when the bulbs are in storage, they can be propagated. This procedure is performed using scales. They are very carefully removed from the bulb and treated with potassium permanganate or any fungicide. Next, they are dried and placed in bags with a peat composition. Then they are stored in the same way as the rest of the bulbs.

By spring, the separated scales become strewn with small bulbs, the diameter of which is no more than 1 cm. They are carefully separated and planted in a permanent place.

On a note!

Some people place young bulbs in a mixture of peat and sand. So, by the time of disembarkation they will grow up.

How to choose storage space

Storage location is important for the safety of lilies. The temperature regime is important and must be constant. It is best if the temperature is at 0...+4°C. Experienced gardeners do not recommend storing lily bulbs in the refrigerator, since there is not enough ventilation there. As practice shows, such storage significantly reduces the supply of planting material.

It is most convenient to store lilies in a cellar or basement. They are ideal because they can easily achieve the required temperature, ventilation and humidity levels. During the winter, it is necessary to take into account what the air temperature is outside in order to open or close the ventilation duct as necessary.

Tips for caring for lilies during storage

To obtain high-quality planting material in the spring, it is necessary to store lilies correctly in winter:

Regularly ventilate the room and containers where the bulbs are located.
Inspect and remove diseased specimens, since one such tuber can infect all the others with fungus.
Maintain optimal humidity and air temperature.
When storing outdoors in severe frosts, you need to strengthen the cover with agrofibre.

Read more When and how to transplant lilies to a new place in the fall: in the Moscow region, in Siberia, in the Urals

Most often, bulbous plants are affected by fusarium, the main symptoms of which include blurry, red spots on the tubers. The reason for this pathology is high humidity and insufficient ventilation. If diseased specimens are found, they are removed and disposed of.

With a lack of moisture in the air, the bulbs wither and become loose. Most often, this problem occurs when stored in the refrigerator, open boxes or containers. Sawdust, peat, and paper should sometimes be moistened to prevent drying out.

If a fusarium disease is suspected, the tubers are immediately removed from the general storage area.

How to store lilies in winter at home

In a refrigerator. Storing lily bulbs at home is possible in the refrigerator. The bulbs are placed in a bag into which damp peat is poured. The bag with planting material is stored on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. It should be taken into account that when storing lilies in the refrigerator, you cannot store fruit there. They emit ethylene, which is harmful to lilies.

In the basement, garage. These rooms are suitable only when they are sufficiently insulated and the temperature in them, even in severe frosts, does not fall much below zero. A layer of sand or peat is poured into a container (container or box), it should be slightly damp. A layer of bulbs is placed on this layer and covered again with sand or peat. You can make several layers, the top layer should be a covering layer. The container is covered with damp burlap.

On the loggia or balcony of the apartment. How to store lily bulbs in winter? You can install a box with thermal insulation on the balcony. The body of an old refrigerator is suitable, which is installed near the wall of the building to get additional protection from frost. It should be taken into account that in severe frost the bulbs may freeze. Handymen can upgrade an old refrigerator box by installing a thermometer inside to monitor the temperature and a few incandescent light bulbs that can act as heaters when the temperature drops.

You may be interested in: Transplanting lilies to another place in the fall: how to do it correctly

LiveInternetLiveInternet

Although lilies, at first glance, may seem like very exotic plants, they are quite hardy and can withstand wintering outside in many regions (frost hardiness zones 5 - 9). However, gardeners in cooler, wetter climates prefer to dig up their lily bulbs for the winter and place them in less harsh environmental conditions. You can also try leaving them in the ground, providing them with extra protection, such as covering the soil with humus or straw, or covering them with plant covers. This article describes all these methods - to learn more, just start reading.

1
.
Dig up lily bulbs after the first frost. If you live in a cooler climate but have lilies growing outside in your garden, be prepared to dig up the plants for the winter. This will increase their chances of survival during the winter.

Wait until the first frost to dig up your lily bulbs. Before digging, cut off dead shoots (foliage) at a distance of approximately 7.5 cm from the ground.
Digging up and storing the bulbs indoors during the winter is important for some finicky lily varieties, such as the delicate colored calla lilies.

2. Carefully dig out the bulbs.

Dig a hole much wider than the root itself - this is necessary so as not to touch the bulb with a spatula and damage it.

Very carefully remove as much soil from healthy bulbs as possible without damaging the roots.
Rinse the bulbs under cool running water (such as with a garden hose) to remove any remaining soil.

3. Check the bulbs carefully for rot or disease.

There is no point in storing diseased or damaged bulbs. If you find them, throw them away. Avoid composting infected plants as this may spread the infection.

4. Place the bulbs on a tray (tray) and let them dry for a few days.

Make sure there is enough space on the tray for the bulbs to allow air to circulate freely. A cool, dark place like a shed or garage is best for drying the bulbs.

Do not bring the bulbs into a heated house to dry, as sudden changes in temperature can harm them. Additionally, mold can grow quickly in warm environments.
Temperature 15 – 20 ̊С is ideal. The bulbs should not be exposed to sunlight.

5. Sprinkle the bulbs with fungicidal powder and place them in storage.

After the bulbs have dried for a few days, sprinkle them with fungicidal powder. Place them in paper bags along with a small amount of dried peat moss or vermiculite.

You can also use a cardboard box, as long as you make some ventilation holes to allow air to circulate freely inside.
Make sure the bulbs don't touch each other - you can put moss or vermiculite between them to prevent them from touching. The point is to prevent one bulb from infecting another if rotting begins.

6. Store the bulbs in a dark, dry place.

Moisture and rot are the two biggest dangers to bulbs in winter, so protect them by storing them in a dry, dark place.

However, you should not allow the bulbs to dry out completely. If the bulbs do become completely dry or wrinkled, lightly spray them with water to prevent them from drying out.

7. Transplant the bulbs outside in mid to late spring.

The bulbs need to rest for several months before they begin to grow again. Therefore, it is best to replant them in mid- or late spring, as soon as the danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed up.

Your lilies are even more at risk of being killed by winter rains than by frost, so avoid planting lilies in wet (flooded) soil, even if the weather is good.

ist

If you want to force bulbs from overwintering at home, you should take into account the fact that only properly prepared and full-fledged bulbs (large, healthy bulbs two to three years old) are suitable for forcing. When forced, small and young bulbs do not form good flowers or will not bloom at all. You also need to keep in mind that for successful forcing of various bulbs, you need to adhere to the timing and technology of planting bulbs of this type, observe the storage conditions of planted bulbs and their optimal maintenance during the period of budding and flowering. This is a big topic for separate articles (for example, about forcing daffodils and tulips, about forcing lilies)

The task of preserving flower bulbs in winter at home sooner or later arises for all bulb lovers. Therefore, various methods for reliable storage of bulbs in winter are always in demand by gardeners.

I would like to share a method developed based on personal experience for storing flower bulbs using peat throughout the winter and early spring (until mid-April).

A favorable environment in which flower bulbs can be successfully stored in winter must satisfy several conditions. It should not be too dry (otherwise the bulbs will lose a lot of moisture, wrinkle or dry out completely) or too humid (then the bulbs will become moldy or hatch at the wrong time), it should not be too cold (otherwise the bulbs will freeze) or too warm (then the bulbs will move ahead of time). in height). It is advisable that the room where the bulbs are stored is sufficiently ventilated, otherwise stagnant air can lead to the formation of mold and diseases in the bulbs.

I store flower bulbs in winter using peat in a dry, cold underground with two ventilation holes. The storage facility maintains a low positive temperature (+ 1...+3 degrees) and the required humidity (40-45%).

For winter storage of bulbs, I use a reliable plastic bag; For the purpose of ventilation, I make rare small holes of a few mm in it. At the bottom of the bag, I first pour a peat bedding about 10 cm thick. I lay the onions on the peat in an even layer, slightly retreating from the edges of the bag. I fill the layer of bulbs on top with the same peat moss, but in a thicker layer (12-13 cm), so that the rows of bulbs are spaced apart from each other and the bulbs can breathe normally. Then I place the next row of bulbs on top again. After laying and filling the bulbs with peat, you need to tie the bag and place it in a box or any container suitable for the size of the bag.

It is important to constantly monitor the temperature in the storage and regulate it using the ventilation openings - closing or opening them as necessary, so that the optimal temperature inside is always maintained. Under favorable storage conditions, the bulbs will be at rest, will be perfectly preserved and will not grow ahead of time.

In winter, once a month I inspect the planting material: I untie the bag, remove several bulbs from the top, middle and bottom rows for selective control. I inspect these bulbs for rot, mold or drying out.

As a rule, under favorable storage conditions, healthy bulbs do not die.

If during the inspection a lesion is detected in at least one control bulb, then it will be necessary to check all the planting material in the bag. Then all the stored bulbs must be sorted out and examined very carefully in order, if necessary, to remove dead bulbs and put the affected bulbs in order.

Diseased bulbs should be placed separately from healthy bulbs for subsequent processing and treatment: - mold that has formed should be removed from the bulbs with a dry, clean cloth, and powder these places with crushed charcoal; - remove foci of putrefaction from the bulbs with a sharp, disinfected knife until healthy tissue is removed, and treat the sections with green paint.

The treated bulbs are put back into storage, preferably separately from healthy bulbs and with peat replaced.

Storing bulbs in winter can be successfully combined with propagating your favorite plants. For example, if you dug up bulbs of non-winter-hardy lilies from the garden in the fall, and also purchased bulbs of expensive and rare varieties of lilies too late in the fall (or too early in the spring), then during storage they can be propagated at the same time. In winter, I use a simple method of propagating lilies by scales, so that I can get many children from one bulb.

To do this, I take the onion and dissect it: carefully grabbing each scale with my fingers and trying not to damage its tissue, I carefully separate the scales from the base of the onion. I immediately sprinkle the scales broken off from the onion with peat. I store prepared lily bulbs and scales in the same conditions as described above. Babies soon begin to form at the bases of the broken scales. By the beginning of the gardening season, from a purchased large lily bulb in this way, you can get a large number of young baby bulbs with a diameter of up to 1 cm over the winter. In this case, even if you purchase a lily bulb of a rare and expensive variety (200-300 rubles per piece), then when you propagate it by scales in a year, your expenses will more than pay off due to the receipt of a large amount of valuable planting material.

Pyotr Samsonovich Kiselev (Istra, Moscow region)

ist

Is it possible to leave the bulbs in the ground?

Many gardeners are interested in whether it is right to constantly dig up bulbs? In fact, for high-quality storage, about 15 cm of snow cover is enough, only in this case the lilies will not freeze. And without snow, there is a risk that the bulbs left in the ground will simply die.

Although in warm regions, flower growers leave lilies for the winter at their place of growth. But it’s better to play it safe by covering the beds with peat, spruce branches, and pine paws. Coniferous covering is the most optimal, since in the spring there will be no breeding ground for pests. At the first thaw in early spring, the covering must be removed.

It should be remembered that this storage method is only suitable for frost-resistant varieties. When growing Oriental Trumpet varieties and other oriental hybrids, it is necessary to ensure that they are in dry soil at the time of the first rainfall. In the first week of September, you can cover the beds with polyethylene and remove it when the first frosts hit.

Agricultural techniques

Growing lilies is a complex process that includes various agricultural techniques. Each of them has a specific meaning. When growing lilies, you should also take into account the varieties, because each has its own characteristics. There are many varieties of crops that can withstand a harsh winter, while others will disappear in the soil even with slight frosts. Therefore, not all lilies can be dug up.

Do all lilies need to be dug up?

Many lilies are characterized as frost-resistant crops. But you need to find out whether the plant being grown is a hybrid.

It is imperative to remove tubular, oriental, Asian and American varieties from the ground for winter storage.

If the lily is classified as a hybrid of LA lilies, then they should be removed from the ground for the winter annually, regardless of climatic conditions. A feature of this variety is the rapid formation of children; if they are not removed, they will take away all the nutrients from the parent plant.

The following plant varieties should not be dug up for the winter:

Asian hybrid;
matragon;
Daurian lily;
Pennsylvania hybrid;
OA lily hybrid.

You can leave the tiger lily for the winter; it tolerates winter well. For reliability, the soil should be mulched using sawdust and spruce paws. Additionally, spruce paws are laid as cover.

When and how to dig up lilies for the winter

Some varieties drip for wintering. But any flowers, regardless of frost resistance, should be dug up periodically to remove excess children, as well as replant them in a new place.

Different varieties of hybrids have their own replanting times:

Asian hybrids and hybrid varieties of the LA class (Longiflorum-Asiatic) should be dug up from August 15 to 20;
American-type hybrids and OT (Oriental-Tubular) class plants are not dug up every year, but this should be done from August 25 to September 1;
oriental hybrids are removed from the ground only for replanting and periodic removal of babies from September 1 to 5.

How to ensure the safety of lilies

The issue of bulb preservation is complex and does not have a clear answer. Whether to dig up or leave plants in the ground over the winter depends on many factors. First of all, it depends on the plant variety itself, as well as the weather conditions of the area.

But sometimes replanting and digging should be done in order to preserve the decorative nature of the flowers, and also to avoid overgrowth and weak plants. This can happen if the parent bulb is abundantly covered with children. They not only thicken the plantings and the flowers become much smaller, but also lead to insufficient supply of nutrients to the parent plant.

Ways to cover for the winter

To preserve lilies for the winter that are planned to be left in their old place, you will need to organize a reliable shelter. There are many options.

In autumn (late September - early October), after cutting off old stems, mulching is carried out using leaves or peat. Nothing else is needed, since a thick layer of snow is the best blanket.
To prevent the bulbous sprouts from germinating too early and suffering from late frosts, you can cover the beds with lilies with a layer of fallen leaves after the ground has frozen.
In the northwestern territories, the best shelter after slight freezing of the soil is a 10-15 cm layer of spruce branches or dry leaves.

Covering lilies for overwintering

Sometimes you don't just need to preserve the lily bulbs that you dug up yourself. There are times when planting material was purchased for the winter and needs to be preserved. Oriental hybrids of different varieties of representatives of the Liliaceae family are recommended to be covered. To do this, you need to make a trench in the garden plot. You need to choose a place for it where it is dry and sunny in spring, and where a lot of snow lingers in winter. High-quality drainage will help avoid stagnation of water in the trench. Line the trench with boards and make a cover.

Place the lily bulbs in bags, pack them, put them in a trench, transferring them with bags of water. They will be an excellent temperature indicator and maintain atmospheric changes. If the water freezes in the cold, it means the bulbs will begin to freeze. The storage is first covered with film, then closed with a lid. You can add a layer of cardboard on top, sprinkle with earth, and cover with pine branches. To protect the material from mice, it is necessary to spread rodent poison in the trench.

Boarding time

The most favorable period for planting lilies is considered to be the time when the plant has bloomed (late summer - mid-autumn). If you purchased lilies in the spring, then you can plant the bulbs as soon as the snow melts and the soil thaws. It is best to plant late varieties of lilies in the spring.

For large bulbs, the planting depth is 25 cm; for smaller ones, this parameter is determined in accordance with the size. The bulb is planted at a depth 3 times greater than its size. After planting, water with settled water and mulch with crushed bark. To protect young lily shoots, you can cover them with cut plastic bottles.

Typical mistakes of beginning gardeners

The main errors are related to inappropriate storage conditions:

Low storage temperatures slow down the formation of flower buds. This can slow down the flowering process or even eliminate it.
At low humidity, the bulbs quickly become unsuitable for planting because they dry out.
At high humidity, planting material becomes moldy and may rot.
If the storage area is too warm, the bulbs will begin to grow prematurely.
During winter, be sure to check the bulbs. If mold appears, you need to wipe the planting material with a damp cloth and sprinkle the affected areas with charcoal.
When rot appears, it is removed with a knife, treating the cut areas with a solution of brilliant green. If the bulbs are severely damaged, they are thrown away.

Available storage

But still, the place where to store the planting material is decisive. The main condition is maintaining a stable temperature regime. Of course, you can adjust a regular home refrigerator to maintain a constant temperature (0 to +3 degrees) throughout the winter. However, it is unlikely that the bulbs will receive sufficient ventilation in this case. In addition, the ethylene released by vegetables and fruits stored in the refrigerator will not create a very favorable atmosphere for lilies. You will have to keep an eye on their condition every now and then and, perhaps, the supply of bulbs may decrease before spring.

Not everyone can boast of having storage in a basement or cellar, where it is, of course, easier to maintain the required regime and achieve the necessary air movement and low humidity. But here, too, control is necessary in the event of a sharp drop in external temperature. By closing and opening the vents as needed, you can maintain a constant temperature.

Advice
During the winter, check the condition of the bulbs after one to two months. Remove any mold that has appeared with a dry soft cloth and sprinkle the affected areas with charcoal powder. Rotten areas must be cut out with a knife with a blade treated with a disinfectant solution, and the cut must be treated with brilliant green. You can bathe them in a solution of potassium permanganate or in Maxim fungicidal liquid. And, of course, the damaged bulbs must be kept separate from the remaining planting material. If the bulbs begin to dry out, wrap them in damp paper or moisten the filler in which they are stored (peat, moss).