You can use a decoction of rosehip roots to get rid of stones on your teeth - how

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Published: 04/15/2020

Reading time: 7 min

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  • 1 How to destroy rose hips
  • 2 What to do to prevent a rose from being reborn?
  • 3 How to destroy rose hips
  • 4 Effective ways
  • 5 Procurement of raw materials
  • 6 How to uproot roots
  • 7 How to get rid of rose hips?
  • 8 How to distinguish a rose from a rose hip?
  • 9 Compresses
  • 10 Folk remedies
  • 11 Rosehip shoots
  • 12 Weight loss
  • 13 Pet bottle
  • 14 Decisive methods
  • 15 Decisive methods
  • 16 Vinegar and salt
  • 17 Healing plant
  • 18 Rose hips in the garden!!!! how to get rid of it?
  • 19 Rosehip as a weed

What to do to prevent a rose from being reborn?

In order to reduce the risk of a problem, it is important to approach the purchase of seedlings responsibly. It is better to purchase planting material from reputable nurseries or garden centers, where you can additionally get advice on agricultural technology.

It is necessary to inspect the seedling, make sure that there are no buds under the graft, and evaluate the shoots and leaves for their distinctive features.

At the first signs of rose degeneration, you need to take quick action:

  • excavate the grafting site;
  • find the area where the shoots are growing;
  • cut off rosehip shoots at the base;
  • Treat the cut area with iodine.

This is not a permanent solution to the problem. The procedure will have to be carried out 2-3 times during the growing season. In the spring of next year, re-formation of shoots is possible, so such measures may be necessary throughout the life of the rose. The growth may appear at a distance of a meter from the trunk of the plant; this also needs to be removed.

If the rose variety is relatively winter-hardy, you can transfer it to its own roots. It is important to know that such bushes reach maximum decorative value in 3-4 years. The procedure is carried out in the spring after the soil has warmed up. To do this, a trench is dug from the trunk, into which the shoot is placed and secured with wire pins.

The rose shoot is sprinkled with loose and nutritious soil, leaving the top outside in an upright position. To do this, it is tied to a peg. In the spring of next year, the rooted plant is separated and transplanted to a new location.

Deepening the rootstock by 7-10 cm when planting a seedling significantly reduces the risk of the formation of rose hips. In some cases, this area may be exposed after watering or rain, so hilling will be required. Subsequently, the scion site must be carefully protected; any damage may disrupt the nutrition of the grafted rose.

Bushes with large rose buds

How to destroy rose hips

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=http:c2jtPrnDC-Q

The problem of dense thickets appearing in the countryside is quite common. The main reason is that the majority of plots and vegetable gardens are purchased in a rather abandoned and unkempt state.

Even if the basic work of cutting down and uprooting old trees and bushes has been carried out, if care is not taken in a timely manner, everything will become overgrown again.

The problem is especially acute in the spring, when no one has visited the garden for 3–5 months.

It is worth getting rid of unnecessary bushes regularly, even if you decide to leave a few specimens for decorative purposes. It is also worth observing young shoots: if they are not treated or uprooted, in just a few months the shoots will fill the largest possible area. It is best to remove rose hips with the onset of the first warming in the spring.

The main goal will be to destroy the main root system and all visible shoots.

During all other months, until November, it will be possible to regularly monitor the situation and gradually destroy the occasional growth.

It is worth understanding that it is impossible to destroy a bush instantly. The situation should be constantly monitored: new shoots may appear even after several years.

Find out more about the effect of rose hips on the human body.

Video: Removing rose hips

After this, you can begin the uprooting procedure itself:

  1. To begin with, it is worth pruning and trimming the bush until the length of the branches is only 5–8 cm above ground level. You need to work exclusively in thick, thick clothing and durable gloves so as not to injure the skin (bush thorns can cause painful abscesses).
  2. Now you need to dig up the roots one by one and free them from the soil . You should act as carefully as possible so as not to break off the root system and leave shoots in the ground. There is no need to try to cut the root and extract it in parts: this will only complicate the situation, especially since the remaining part can easily regenerate.
  3. The removed bush, along with the cut branches and parts of the roots, must be burned or at least taken out along with the rest of the garbage. The big mistake of many summer residents is that they throw rose hips onto the compost heap, where they calmly take root and germinate on fertilized soil.
  4. After digging up the bush, it is necessary to monitor the situation on the site monthly and, if necessary , repeat the procedure if the bush begins to grow again.

Effective ways

There is such a drug “Tornado”. It is a herbicide. You can buy such a product in the same place where they sell chemicals or poisons for the garden.

This drug is used as follows:

  • Small cuts are made on the plants, and a solution of the substance is applied to them.
  • After 7 days, both the plant and its roots will die.

This is the easiest way to get rid of rose hips. If you cannot completely remove the bushes, cut slate around it on all sides to the depth of the roots; the rose hips will not grow further.

The most reliable way is to dig up all the growth. The thing is that the root shoots of rose hips can grow over long distances, covering the entire territory of the site. The only way to correct the situation is to dig by hand. Other methods do not guarantee that new young rosehip shoots will not appear next year. Before removing the roots, prune the bush itself.

We invite you to read Not a waste, but a source of vitamins: how beet tops are useful and how they can be used

Questions about rose hips

Tree or shrub

Wikipedia says that Rosehip is a deciduous shrub with straight or creeping branches. Depending on natural conditions or care for the bush, it grows to different heights, but not more than 3 m .


Dog-rose fruit

Other sources also say that it is a shrub of varying heights and does not have a central trunk so that it can be classified as a tree.

Useful features

Rose hips contain many vitamins and other beneficial substances. And therefore the plant has many features :

  1. The fruits are used to make teas, pastes, jams, compotes, sweets and much more.
  2. Jam is made from Rosehip petals
  3. In Slovenia, the fruits are added to wines and give them a special taste.
  4. In the Caucasus, young shoots were eaten, and young leaf blades were brewed into tea .
  5. Pharmacological factories make various vitamins, syrups, and extracts .

Procurement of raw materials

It is recommended to collect raw materials in late autumn or early spring.

  1. To stock up on rosehip root, you don’t need to destroy the entire bush: you need to chop off one of the shoots and remove it from the ground.
  2. Separate the lateral shoots from the central stem - they are the ones that have healing properties and will be used for healing purposes.
  3. Rinse the roots thoroughly with running water, chop into 2 cm pieces and use fresh or dry.

How to uproot the roots

You can get rid of unwanted bushes with an ax and a shovel. Often this method turns out to be quite effective and does not require additional use of chemicals. The only drawback is the need to regularly re-uproot the shoots.

To simplify the task of digging, you need to thoroughly water the soil around the bush the day before the procedure. This will help remove the plant with minimal damage, because the soil will still remain moist and pliable.

How to get rid of rose hips?

Select the appropriate herbicide. The best way to kill wild rose is with herbicides containing glyphosate, but be careful of the herbicide's effect on plants you do not intend to kill.

  • Some herbicides remain in the soil for a long time, so take their choice seriously, especially if you plan to plant something in the area soon.
  • Make sure the herbicide you choose is effective on woody plants.
  • If possible, you should get rid of wild roses at the end of summer. This is the best time to apply herbicides to wild rose bushes. It is always best to remove bushes before they produce berries (late summer or fall).
  • Choose a calm day to prevent chemicals from being blown away by the wind. Also try to choose a dry day when the weather forecast does not predict rain, so that the herbicides are not washed away by the rain.
  • It is recommended not to dig up plants in winter as the ground is harder in winter.

  • Follow the instructions for applying the herbicide you choose. It would be best to read the instructions for the type of herbicide you purchased and follow the recommendations in those instructions. But in most cases, you can use the following principles when applying herbicide:
    • Keep other plants and soil securely protected, perhaps with a plastic film. Wear protective clothing and gloves, and use safety glasses. Keep children and animals away from the area where the herbicide is applied.
    • Spray the bush with chemicals, making sure that the base of the bush and its trunk are well soaked. The effect of use will be visible after a few weeks. Repeat treatment if necessary.

  • If you need to get rid of wild roses in winter, use a herbicide that works against stumps. Some herbicides are sold as stump killers. They work best during the cooler months when there is no sap flow in the plants (usually November to March).
    • Using a stump herbicide, prune the branches, then cut the main trunk of the shrub down to a few inches off the ground. Treat fresh wood cuttings with herbicide.
    • This method only works when applied to living wood, so if the shrub is already dead or the trunk you are treating is brown and withered, the herbicide will not be able to kill the rest of the shrub.

  • You may need to make holes in the trunk to pour the herbicide into if you don't get it right the first time.
  • Wait a few weeks before digging up the dead rose bush. Herbicides kill the plant completely, including the roots, so that it cannot grow again, even if the roots remain in the soil. However, do not remove the shrub for several weeks to ensure that the chemicals have penetrated the plant's root system.
    • You'll probably want to dig up the dead plant to avoid tripping over a stump and ruining the look of the area.
    • Because a dead stump decomposes slowly in the soil, you will want to dig it up so you can plant other plants in its place. Using a pick-hoe, you can remove root collars and stumps from the ground a few weeks after applying the herbicide.

  • We received a question from Olga: “Several years ago we bought a plot of land. There are several old bushes growing on its territory, which we cannot get rid of. What advice can you give us?

    How to form a rosehip bush. How to prune rose hips correctly in the fall

    Rosehip is a very useful plant. But because of the thorniness of this crop, gardeners prefer to buy its fruits in the store. Without care, the rosehip bush quickly turns into wild thickets, produces few berries or does not bloom at all. The problem can be solved simply - you need to regularly trim the plant.

    Why prune rose hips?

    Rose hips are distinguished by the rapid growth of shoots, so without care the bush quickly becomes overgrown with thin and weak branches. In addition, the plant produces root shoots, which can appear at a distance of up to a meter from the bush. After 2–3 years without maintenance, thorny thickets will appear on the site.

    Wild rose hips set fruit only at the tops; the rest of the bush cannot be reached by the sun, wind and insects

    The purpose of pruning is to remove excess so that the plant is evenly illuminated and heated by the sun and spends juices on the development of strong and productive shoots.

    For those who are afraid of thorns, varieties of rose hips without thorns have been developed: Alpine, Ponikly, Vitamin, Grushenka, Yadviga, Thornless.

    Features of rose hips that influence the pruning method

    When starting pruning, keep in mind that:

    • an adult rose hip bush consists of 15–20 erect and arched shoots;
    • flowering and fruiting occur on last year's growths;
    • the first fruits appear in the third year, sometimes in the second;
    • in the lower part of the bush, ovaries are not formed or there are few of them;
    • The lifespan of each fruit branch is 5–6 years.

    To trim prickly rose hips, use a lopper to get to any branch deep in the bush without getting your hands splintered.

    We form the bush by the third year from strong shoots with strong side branches. We remove excess growth and short growths of the lower tier. We prune a five-year-old bush to zero or organize a conveyor: we cut out the old branches, and select the most beautiful and tallest shoots from young growth as replacements.

    Formation of a rose hip bush

    Rose hips need formative and sanitary pruning.

    Traditional way

    Trimming steps:

    1. Immediately after planting the seedling, we cut off all existing shoots at a height of 10–15 cm from ground level. In this case, several buds should remain on each shoot.
    2. Over the next 2 years, the bush grows the required number of stems on its own. To form branches of the second order, we pinch the tops of the main shoots as soon as they grow to 70–80 cm.
    3. From the third year, we cut out weak and low growth, as well as all second-order branches in the lower tier (up to 40 cm) to thin out the base of the bush. In addition, branches that grow horizontally, downwards and inside the crown, as well as those that cross and rub against others must be removed.
    4. From the age of 5–6 years, we cut out old woody thick stems close to the ground. We leave exactly the same number of young replacement shoots for replacement.

    A rosehip bush takes several years to form

    Cut rosehip branches serve as excellent protection against rodents in winter. In late autumn, place them as mulch under fruit trees and shrubs, in beds with wintering bulbous crops, and on top of garden strawberries.

    Hedge

    Rosehip is multifunctional, it serves as a garden decoration, a healer for its owners, and protection of the site from uninvited guests. A hedge is not neglected thickets, but planting plants in one continuous row with regular trimming. Stages of planting and pruning (for varieties with a height of 2 m):

    1. We place the seedlings in one row at a distance of 50–60 cm from each other.
    2. In the year of planting, we shorten them to 30–40 cm.
    3. In the second year, we cut off all shoots at a height of 1 m.
    4. In all subsequent years, we trim the rose hips at the required height (maximum - the height of an outstretched arm).

    The bushes will close together and create an impenetrable wall within 2 years after planting. Be sure to cut out dry and broken branches, and every year after 5 years, cut out the oldest ones.

    A flowering rosehip hedge can be created in a couple of years

    Low-growing varieties can be used to make borders. The distance between bushes is 20–30 cm.

    Rosehip in a hedge can be cut in any way you like: in the form of a simple rectangle, trapezoid, hearts, turrets. Round shapes are most suitable. Often, trellises are used to build a hedge - they install posts with parallel slats and tie rosehip branches to them in the form of a fan.

    The branches of the bush should be evenly distributed and tied to the trellis

    Tall, thornless plants are suitable for growing on pergolas and arches.

    In the shape of a tree on a trunk

    Instead of a huge thorny bush there is one lush branch strewn with fruits. It is very easy to care for such a plant; it is visible from all sides: flowers, fruits, unnecessary twigs are in plain sight. The main thing is to remove all the shoots, because the more the bush is pruned, the more actively it produces replacement shoots.

    Stages of formation:

    1. In the bush we leave one strong annual shoot (without side branches), shorten it to a height of 40–70 cm. We remove all the rest growing from the ground annually.
    2. In the second year, side branches will grow on the stem. We cut off the lower ones to form a standard, and from the remaining ones we select the strongest ones, directed in different directions. They will become skeletal. We remove crooked, thin, broken branches.
    3. In the third year, we shorten the strongly grown side branches by a third. Where there are no strong growths, we pinch them. You will get a beautiful tree with branches of approximately equal length, symmetrically located on all sides.
    4. At the age of 3–4 years, the standard rose hips are covered with fruits. They are not formed along the entire branch, like in gooseberries, but on the tops of the shoots, so the more side branches of the second and third order there are on the tree, the richer the harvest will be.
    5. After 5–6 years of fruiting, we cut off the tree at ground level, and form a new one from the shoots.

    In most cases, standard rose hips are unstable; they need to be tied to stakes, and untied and laid on the ground for the winter

    When to prune rose hips

    Starting from the third year, gardeners prune well-rooted rose hips all year round. Even if something goes wrong, you can cut the entire bush to the ground.

    It will quickly recover due to growth and again provide an opportunity to experiment. If you are pursuing the goal of getting a good harvest of berries, then formation should be carried out while the plant is sleeping, i.e.

    from late autumn to early spring. But sanitary pruning is needed as needed.

    Shoots damaged by hail, pests and diseases must be removed immediately. This way, foci of infection will be eliminated, and the bush will have more strength to grow and ripen healthy branches.

    Pruning in autumn

    In autumn, it is not recommended to carry out formative pruning (shortening or cutting out strong but unnecessary shoots). The fact is that during the winter the bush can be damaged by frost, wind, and heavy snow.

    Therefore, in the fall you should limit yourself to sanitary pruning, removing small shoots in the lower part of the bush, as well as those branches that will be removed in any case: crooked, broken, growing deep and downward, dry and diseased.

    It is better to postpone pruning old rosehip branches until spring. If many young immature shoots die in winter, the old woody ones will be saved. In the spring we cut them, but not at ground level, but into a stump with two buds. Over the summer, strong stems will grow in this place, which will yield a harvest the following year.

    Pruning in spring

    Summer is ahead, so spring pruning is the most important. The plant awakens and immediately directs all the juices to growth. Young branches will grow over the summer, ripen and survive the winter well. First of all, we cut off all frozen tops and broken shoots. Then we carry out formative pruning and thinning.

    In spring, old branches with cracked bark are clearly visible

    When and how best to cultivate overgrown rose hips

    If you have an abandoned plot, or you decide to cultivate a rosehip that has not been given attention for many years, cut it all off at the root. This needs to be done in the fall. Take away the entire above-ground part and burn it. This way you will not allow fungi and pests to move into the ground for wintering and re-settle on the young bush, which will begin to grow in the spring.

    Another option is to uproot the plants, and in the process take several rooted cuttings to plant in another location. The best time for this event is early spring. It will be clearly visible which buds have overwintered, are already awakening and are ready to start growing.

    Rosehip is a crop where you can learn pruning without the risk of losing the plant. To gain experience, plant bushes of 2-3 varieties. Use different methods of plant formation, prune rose hips in spring and autumn, and you will find the most effective way to get a rich harvest.

    How to prune rose hips

    Trim rose hips

    you can do it anyway. At least to the very root. This is exactly what they do with neglected bushes - it’s easier to cut everything off from the top and grow new shoots. Such severe pruning is resorted to if the yield of vitamin-rich berries has seriously fallen.

    It is better not to bring the bushes to this state. To do this, it is enough to annually remove diseased, dry, broken and weak thickening shoots. From the age of five, they begin to cut out all branches older than five years, since they have small growth and a sharp decrease in fruit.

    But you need to be careful with shortening rosehip shoots. Shortening will produce a lot of growth, and this can cause a lot of inconvenience. The best time to prune is late winter and early spring. Prune rose hips in winter

    It’s even more convenient – ​​you can see dead and dry branches. In spring there is less time and early growing shoots may get in the way.

    This is a simplified cut. But for rose hips, pruning is also applicable as for roses - into one trunk. This special pruning - when planting on top of the soil - leaves two buds. The shoots that grow from them are also cut into two buds in the fall. It turns out four branches two buds long.

    The next year eight shoots grow. In autumn, each of them is also cut into two buds. From this moment the bush is considered formed. All shoots are removed annually, and the number of shoots is left equal to eight, cutting out the weakest one on each of them, and shortening the strong ones by two buds.

    This way, you can maintain high rose hip yields in a compact bush for more than ten years. Given its high frost resistance, it is a very good way to collect a large number of fruits from a small area. Such bushes are easier to care for and more convenient to harvest.

    But end up trimming the rose hips

    you can according to your taste.

    If you decide to form a multi-stemmed bush, then also remember that the optimal number of shoots in a bush is 10-20. Exactly the same amount as obtained on a correctly formed single-stem bush... Important - rosehip is light-loving and does not bear fruit if there is a lack of light. With a large number of shoots, shading and a sharp decrease in yield will begin.

    All weak, broken branches lying on the ground must be removed during any pruning.

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    How to distinguish a rose from a rose hip?

    So, how to distinguish a rose and a rose hip? Rose is a cultivated form of plants of the Rosehip genus. Most plant varieties and hybrids were obtained as a result of breeding work, and some were obtained through selection from wild rose hips. Therefore, rose hips and roses have genetic and external similarities.

    The similarity of young seedlings of two crops causes errors during acquisition, reproduction or at the beginning of degeneration.

    There are three main signs by which the type of plant can be determined:

    • Leaves. In roses they are dark green in color, dense and leathery with slightly rounded tips and a shiny surface. Basically, all varieties produce 3-5 leaves on the stem. Rose hips have light olive-colored leaves, matte and rough with 5-7 leaflets with pointed tips.
    • Escape. Young shoots have a reddish tint, and over time they become green. Rose hips have green and thinner shoots.
    • Spikes. In roses they are strong and rare. Rosehip stems are completely covered with short spines; they can also be found on the petioles and sepals.

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    In some cases, it can be difficult to distinguish two types of plants based on these characteristics. Climbing roses also have 7 leaves, and some varieties are distinguished by small and frequent thorns. Therefore, the main feature can be considered the color of young shoots. Knowing the varietal characteristics of a plant will help to avoid many problems, so when purchasing a seedling you need to get detailed advice.

    It is difficult to determine the type of plant only until the period of flowering and lignification of the shoots. After the formation of buds and the appearance of fruits on the rosehip, the difference becomes obvious.

    Red rose bush in the garden

    How to grow rose hips in the garden

    The fruits of wild roses are collected before frost for drying and preparing medicinal vitamin tea in a thermos. A rosehip drink is especially useful during pregnancy and nursing mothers, as well as the sick and weakened.

    Everyone knows about the benefits, but how to grow rose hips. We are used to it growing on its own. But in fact, it requires care and maintenance, like all plants.

    To get a harvest of useful berries, you need two or more rosehip bushes of different varieties, taken at the edge of the forest or in garden nurseries. I invite you to the group on Subscribe.ru for summer residents and gardeners: “Country hobbies”

    how to grow rose hips

    Choosing a place for rose hips

    The following points need to be taken into account.

    1. Like most plants, they prefer sunny places.
    2. Rosehip is unpretentious in terms of soil composition, but does not tolerate flooded meadows and wetlands.
    3. Lime and sand are added to the sites for future planting of seedlings.
    4. Nitrogen fertilizers are needed only before planting, followed by mulching with humus.
    5. The root system produces shoots, spreads over a considerable distance and should be limited by digging a ditch on the bayonet of a shovel and strengthening it with solid material.
    6. For a living flowering fence, seedlings are planted every half a meter, and individual bushes - every two.

    Rosehip propagation

    Propagated by seeds, dividing the bush, layering and cuttings. Seeds are sown fresh in a box or on a bed and mulched on top with fertile soil. When several leaves appear, place them in the prepared area. For spring sowing, seeds are kept in a refrigerator with sand or soil.

    But it is much easier to grow wild roses with ready-made seedlings from shoots or rooted cuttings.

    Rosehip pruning, diseases and pests

    Pruning is carried out mainly for the convenience of collecting fruits and for the beauty of the bush. Seven-year-old branches are pruned in the spring. You can read some more tips on pruning fruit trees and shrubs here.

    Prevention from pests and diseases is the same as for roses, but rose hips are less likely to be exposed to them.

    • For spider mites - a decoction of horsetail.
    • For scale insects - paraffin or mineral oil.
    • For roseate aphids, spray with forty-proof vodka several times and destroy the anthills.
    • From the sawfly - digging with the destruction of weeds, collecting larvae by hand. Or cutting and destroying damaged branches.
    • From the leaf roller butterfly - collection and destruction of leaves.
    • For thrips - pyrethrum or tansy infusion.
    • To protect against most pests, plant marigolds and nasturtiums under rosehip bushes. During flowering, collect, dry, store in jars and make infusions for spraying with soap.
    • Use mustard, garlic, and onions for planting under bushes and for spraying.
    • Make infusions from dandelion and pine needles.

    Traditional methods will help in pest control and will not harm people.

    Due to the popularity of rose hips, it becomes more difficult to collect the required amount in nature and it is better to grow it on your own plot and drink an aromatic and especially healthy drink in winter. Rosehip flowers are used to treat hypertension.

    I also recommend reading about it in the article on how to grow barberry in your dacha.

    , please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

    Folk remedies

    Among the effective folk remedies for watering a tree so that it dries quickly, the following can be noted:

    • Watering with saline solution. Quite an expensive method if you need to “kill” a very large tree. It will take a long time to water. The solution is prepared in a ratio of approximately 1:1. The advantage of this method is that the soil is restored to its original state within a few years after the tree is destroyed.
    • Cover the roots. To do this, dig around the trunk circle, removing soil 50-70 cm deep. Then the entire pit is filled with concrete. This method is good in cases where you need to free up the area for a path. The roots and stump can be left in place, cut down to the level of the site.
    • Mulching. If the tree is not too old and has a sensitive root system, then mulching to a greater height will help. They take crushed herbs, for example, wormwood, celandine, mint or any others, and then fill them to a height of up to 0.5 m. This cuts off the access of oxygen to the roots, and the heat and caustic substances released abundantly during decay will corrode the bark.

    Rosehip shoots

    The question of the differences between rose hips and roses is quite acute for many summer residents, because if it turns out that a rose is growing on the site, then there is no need to fight it. In fact, it is very easy to tell the difference between these two plants, especially during the flowering period.

    You just have to pay attention to the following characteristics:

    • rose shoots are not initially green (they have a pale red color, which changes to bright green over time), and rosehip sprouts, on the contrary, are initially green;
    • a rosehip always has seven leaves on a branch, and for a rose the number will be from three to five;
    • The structure of the leaf itself is also different: for a rose it is almost glossy and quite rich in color, while for a rose hip it is matte;
    • a rose flower is distinguished, first of all, by a large number of petals, while a rose hip has only five;
    • rose flowers are rarely open (only a small number of varieties can be distinguished, where the middle is visible), and rose hips petals are always turned outward;
    • The color of the petals itself is also different: for a rose, the range of colors can vary from pale white to almost black, and for a wild shrub, three main shades will be characteristic (pink, crimson and white);
    • You can also see the difference in the thorns on the plants: on a rose hip they are smaller in size, but they are planted frequently, on a rose it’s the opposite.

    Sometimes the problem is that the rose was initially grafted onto a wild shrub, but over time the rosehip shoots begin to grow in different directions and choke the ornamental plant.

    The rose hip draws all the juices from the rose, since it is the first plant in this case.

    Correcting the situation is problematic, but possible: it is necessary to expose the root to the depth of shoot regrowth and cut it off as much as possible.

    The easiest way to understand that it is not a decorative rose growing in the country, but wild rose hips is at the end of summer. At this time, fruits begin to appear on the rosehip: large, oval-shaped berries, which are a completely atypical property for an ordinary rose.

    Did you know? People began to eat rose hips at the end of the Ice Age.

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    Plant varieties

    If there are no wild rose hips near your home to maintain supplies of medicinal components, then you need to plant it yourself.

    For this purpose, noble plant varieties are most often chosen, with large fruits and a minimum number of thorns and thorns. Such bushes perfectly complement the landscape of the area, delighting with a huge number of bright and large flowers that last for months.

    For home plantings, the following types of rose hips are most often chosen: apple, brown, needle, gray, Daurian, alpine, wrinkled, Webb or Fedchenko rose hips.

    There are other popular types that are distinguished by their unpretentiousness and rich supply of vitamins:

    1. Vitamin Vnivi . It assumes bushes up to 2 meters high. The entire fruit formation zone is completely free of spiny processes. During flowering it has a pleasant aroma. The flowers are small, but prevail in large numbers. The pulp of the fruit has the highest level of vitamins of all rose hips. Vnivi tolerates the cold season well and produces a good harvest.
    2. Large vnivi . This type of rose hip is famous for its large and juicy fruits. Because of this, it has a massive crown and branches. The maximum height of the bushes reaches a maximum of 1.5 meters. There are few thorns, the flowers form large and beautiful - pink with red edges.
    3. Globe . This type of rosehip has thick branches, and the bush itself takes on a round shape. This is especially noticeable during the period of fruit ripening, when the branches bend under the weight of the berries. The globe forms a root system well and gives many shoots to new bushes. It blooms beautifully and tolerates the cold season well.
    4. Rosehip - oval . This type of plant has the sweetest and most suitable fruits for drying. They are often used to make preserves, jams, and candied fruits. Dried fruits can be stored in their original form for several years.
    5. Sergei Mironov . This rose hip was bred specifically for home planting. The plant is not afraid of the cold and fights well against any pests. Gives an annual good harvest and lush spring flowering.

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    Weight loss

    The solution should be prepared for future use in a 1 liter thermos: put 90 g of roots there, add 950 ml of boiling water, leave for half a day. Take 120 ml after meals several times a day.

    Use a classic tincture or prepare a more concentrated one: take more dry raw materials, drink 25-30 ml twice a day. Use as soon as the first signs of damage to the nails or skin are detected. The side effect is harmonization of metabolism, relief from kidney disease, removal of salts from the body (preventing deposition).

    Pet bottle

    Take any half-liter bottle. Using an ordinary knife, even with a less than ideal sharpening, the bottom and neck are cut off so that on one side it fits freely on the hand, and on the other, with a narrowed conical part, it provides a comfortable grip of rose hips with your fingers and maximally protects your hand from being pierced by its thorns .

    It is better to hold the plant branch from swinging with your free hand. It is more convenient to pick berries with your fingers, placing them in your palms. When a full handful is collected, it is simply poured into the prepared container.

    Vinegar and salt

    A mixture of natural ingredients such as vinegar and salt is very effective in combating not only weeds, but also overgrown shrubs. Using vinegar to control weeds and wild bushes will also help get rid of some insects along the way. Ants completely disappear from areas treated with vinegar solution, because this folk remedy acts on them like poison.

    To achieve maximum efficiency, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work:

    1. You need to cut off the branches on the bush as much as possible and dig up the ground around the root, exposing it.
    2. It is recommended to cut the upper part of the root system if possible. Such significant damage will help the mixture penetrate deeper into the plant.
    3. After this, you need to light a fire right in the recess of the root system. Due to strong charring, the effect on the rosehip will be maximum, as will the absorption of the product.
    4. Now you need to make a mixture to destroy rose hips: combine 1 liter of water, 5 tbsp. l. 9% vinegar and 2 tbsp. l. salt. The water is brought to a boil over low heat, after which all the ingredients are combined.
    5. The prepared root system must be completely filled with the prepared solution. In a few days it will begin to dry out.

    This product really works well to destroy rose hips on the site, but you should be prepared that young shoots will still appear. Their root is not as strong as that of an adult shrub, so you can get by with regular digging. If you persistently eradicate the growing shoots throughout the entire season, by next spring not a trace will remain of the rose hips.

    The fight against rose hips will be successful if you regularly devote at least a little time to this activity. If you miss young shoots, the bush will recover and you will have to start all over again, so it is better to remove rose hips in early spring and monitor the situation throughout the season.

    The work of destroying rose hips on the site, namely its tenacious root system, cannot be called easy. This activity requires not only experience and dexterity, but also almost limitless patience, because if you miss even one shoot, the bush will grow back.

    Planting and propagation of rose hips

    The first thing you need to pay attention to when planting rose hips is the location. This shrub from the Rosaceae family loves sunny places. It will grow well in higher elevations with fertile soil. He gives preference to areas with deep groundwater. Rose hips have long roots (the central one grows up to 5 m long), so low or wetlands can cause rotting of the root system and death of the bush.

    Rosehip is a cross-pollinated plant. One bush is enough to decorate the area. However, if your goal is rose hips, then you need to plant at least two plants nearby.

    Rose hips can be propagated in several ways:

    1. Seeds.
    2. By cuttings.
    3. By layering.
    4. Offshoots (root shoots).
    • When choosing a propagation method, you should consider several points:
    • With the first method of propagation, rose hips should be picked slightly unripe. At this time, the seed shell is still quite soft, so their germination rate is much higher.
    • When propagated from seeds, some of the properties of the mother bush are lost. If it is important for you to get an absolutely identical plant, it is better to choose another option.

    • When propagating rose hips using the second method, the cuttings, after treatment with Heteroauxin, are rooted in a peat-sand mixture (1:3).
    • To obtain a layer (method No. 3), take a horizontal or arched shoot, bend it to the ground and dig it in lightly. Make sure that the soil in this place is always moist.
    • When planting, pay attention to the acidity level of the soil. If the pH is below 5, the soil needs to be deoxidized. To do this, dolomite flour, lime, gypsum, ash or other substance with suitable properties should be added to the planting hole.
    • Rose hips are planted in a permanent place in the fall, in October-November. At this time, young plants take root better.

    Rosehip is a plant with a powerful root system. He is able to quickly “capture” a large territory and displace his neighbors. To prevent this from happening, its spread must be controlled. Since the bulk of the roots are shallow, it is enough to dig pieces of slate into the ground to a depth of 30 cm as an underground limiter.

    Healing plant

    Many people know about the benefits of the fruits of such a crop as rose hips. However, few people think about how useful its roots are. Meanwhile, they are able to fight many ailments.

    Healers claim that rosehip root is very effective against kidney stones. Reviews from healers confirm its beneficial effects on the body. Using this remedy, most patients managed to avoid stone crushing and even traumatic abdominal surgery.

    It should be noted that rose hip root (not everyone can use it for kidney stones, but more on that later) provides several beneficial effects. It is capable of not only removing stones, but also dissolving them perfectly. In this case, the drug affects stones localized in the kidneys, liver, and gallstones. In addition, folk medicine made from rosehip roots perfectly improves digestion.

    Useful features

    Rosehip is rich in active substances, vitamins and microelements. Its properties are often used in both traditional and folk medicine for the treatment and prevention of many diseases.

    Moreover, its beneficial components appear almost everywhere: in roots, leaves, branches, berries, seeds and flowers.

    That is why every family, having a plot of land, strives to grow several bushes of traditional or decorative rose hips there, decorating not only the territory with them, but also providing themselves with a storehouse of necessary nutrients for the whole year.

    It is customary to make tinctures, teas, jams and marmalades from rose hips, and simply eat the berries fresh or dried. At the same time, dry inflorescences, leaves, branches and berries can be preserved and not lose their properties for several years.

    Rosehip perfectly treats dermatitis, colds and infectious diseases, restores bleeding, heals wounds and mucous membranes, and perfectly cleanses the intestines, liver and gall bladder.

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