Fertilizers for cherries, what to use and how to apply them in the fall?

Fertilizing cherries in the fall: organic and mineral substances. How to choose autumn fertilizer

Sooner or later there comes a time when cherries begin to bear fruit worse and become sick.
This is due to the gradual depletion of soil in the tree trunk area. Deficiency can be determined by poor flowering, shedding of ovaries, and change in leaf color. And the most unpleasant thing is that pests appear, for which the weak plant is a source of food. To prevent this situation, it is recommended to feed garden cherries several times a year from the third year. It’s better to do it four times: in spring, in summer when pouring berries, after harvesting and in autumn before the onset of cold weather.

Feeding cherries with fertilizers in the fall is important, because renewal buds develop in the fall, without which it is impossible to obtain a harvest for the next year.

How to fertilize mature cherries in spring

An adult tree, depending on the condition of the soil, can be fed after a year. If manual fertilizing is used without installing underground channels for introducing nutrients, you need to correctly determine the location of fertilizer application.

You should step back half a meter from the trunk and dig around the tree in a circle. The larger the crown, the greater the distance you need to measure. It is recommended to use a pitchfork for digging. You need to pour water into the hole if the ground is dry. After the moisture has been absorbed, you can fertilize the tree.

If there is a drought, then preference should be given to fertilizers diluted in water. If there is sufficient climatic precipitation, the substances can be used in dry form.

As soon as the snow has melted and warm weather has set in, you can sanitize the branches. Dead shoots should be removed from the tree and burned. In spring you need to feed the cherries 2 times. The first fertilizing should be applied in early spring, the second - at the end of May after flowering.

For nutrition you need to use nitrogenous fertilizers. Fertilize with nitrogen until mid-summer. Nutrients stimulate plant growth and fruit formation. Popular nitrogen fertilizers include urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium carbonate, and ammonium nitrate.

Planting a young cherry seedling

It is better to buy seedlings in the fall, since at this time nurseries and private country farms offer a large selection. It is not recommended to purchase specimens that are grown from seeds. Such trees do not have varietal characteristics, that is, the cherries will be small and sour.

If you want to plant winter-hardy cherries, then when purchasing you need to pay attention to the grafting site on the trunk of the seedling. If this is not found, then the sellers are offering a regular variety.

After purchasing the tree, you need to dig it into the ground in order to plant it in the spring before the buds swell. This must be done at the end of April. At the beginning of May, it is no longer possible to plant cherries.

Select a place for cherries or cherries according to the following parameters:

  • open sunny space;
  • well moisturized, but without stagnation of water;
  • protected from northern winds.

Planting in spring is carried out in several stages:

  • A pit is prepared 60 cm deep and 50 cm wide.
  • 1 - 2 buckets of humus are poured into the bottom. If the soil is clayey, then add a bucket of sand.
  • Mineral fertilizers include potassium sulfate 40 g and 100 g of superphosphate.
  • The nutrient layer is sprinkled with earth on top and the seedling is installed. You need to hammer a wooden stake nearby to support the tree.
  • The soil is gradually poured into the hole, watered and compacted. A bucket of water is poured on top.

When planting in spring, it is not advisable to add nitrogen or lime for deoxidation, as these substances can damage the root. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied when the planting hole is prepared in the fall.

The same goes for deoxidizers. You can use complex mineral fertilizer, for example, nitrophoska or azofoska. Potassium and phosphorus are stable minerals and combine well with the soil. The nitrogen will have time to decompose and will not harm the roots in the spring.

If fertilizing of cherries in the fall before spring planting is carried out correctly, there is no need to add any nutrients in the next 2 to 3 years. If it is noticeable that pests have infested the seedling, then foliar spraying with chemicals is carried out. During the growth period, it is advisable to protect cherries from the invasion of caterpillars and beetles, since the tree develops immunity.

Planting in open ground

If the hole has been prepared, the soil in it has settled, and the seedling is prepared, you can begin planting.

Watch the video where a cherry seedling is planted in the autumn:

The procedure for planting cherry seedlings:

  1. If you didn't place a support when digging the hole, now is the time to do it. Drive a peg 80 cm high into the center of the hole.
  2. Rake the soil in the hole up the hill. Place the roots of the seedling on it. You must place it so that the roots are straightened and its root collar is 5-6 cm above the surface of the ground. When the ground settles, the neck will drop.
  3. Cover the roots with soil removed from the hole. Apply gradually, shaking the seedling from time to time and tamping the soil with your hands so that the gaps between the roots are filled with earth.
  4. Having filled half of the hole, pour a bucket of water into it so that the earth settles better. Once the moisture is absorbed, continue filling the hole. At the end of the process, thoroughly compact the soil around the trunk. Tie the seedling to the support - carefully, without damaging or squeezing the bark.
  5. Water the seedling. To ensure high-quality watering, dig a groove 5 cm deep around the trunk. Place the soil removed when digging the groove with a roller along the diameter of the trunk circle. Water poured into the groove will be evenly distributed throughout the hole, settling towards the roots.
  6. Mulch the tree trunk circle with peat, mowed grass or other mulch.

Shrub pruning

Of all types of pruning, formative and sanitary cleaning of the crown is used for young seedlings.

This is necessary for the tree to form skeletal branches that grow at a certain angle to the ground. If the tree begins to bear fruit, the weight of the shoot will increase significantly and the branch may crack. After planting in the spring, the first pruning is carried out in the fall: immediately after the tree sheds its leaves.

If the seedling is less than 70 cm, then pruning is carried out next spring. The central shoot is usually shortened so that the tree grows wider. This is important for ease of harvesting. Cut off the shoot above the 6th bud. The growth angle should be no more than 40 - 50 degrees relative to the central shoot. The strongest branches are selected and left. The rest are removed or shortened.

After 2 years, 2–3 tiers of main branches should form on the young tree. They also form additional shoots, which are shortened. If the shoots dry out or are damaged by diseases, they are removed completely. The cuts are covered with garden varnish. It is not recommended to prune just before frost, as this can lead to freezing of the shoots.

Forming and pruning cherries

Without spring pruning, cherry trees become longer and their yield decreases. It is better to prune before the sap begins to flow, and it is advisable to choose a period with relatively warm weather. Immediately after planting, the tree is pruned at a level of 50-70 cm so that the fruiting zone is not laid too high.

The central conductor (the part of the trunk from the lower skeletal branch to the top of the tree) should not be more than 15 cm higher than the tops of the skeletal branches.

In the second year, the skeletal branches are cut to the outer bud, shortened by 1/3.

Branches that compete with the central conductor are cut into a ring.

Usually 3 branches are left in the first tier. In subsequent years, side shoots and too long skeletal branches are shortened by a third, preventing exposure. As a rule, the second tier is formed from two branches. The third tier in one skeletal branch is the final one in the formation of the crown. Subsequently, lateral shoots develop on each skeletal branch. Those of them that do not participate in the formation of the crown are cut to 30 cm.

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    Schemes, photos and videos of spring pruning of garden trees.

At the age of 2-3 years in May, the cherry branches are bent horizontally using spacers or weights. This accelerates the formation of fruit buds. In this case, you cannot bend the branches by the tops, because in case of bending, vertical shoots will begin to form on the branch. In the fall, the spacers and weights can be removed, by which time the branches should already be fixed in their new position.

Fruit-bearing trees are subjected only to sanitary and thinning pruning. At the same time, branches directed into the crown are removed. Dry and diseased branches are pruned without stumps. The cut areas are treated with garden varnish.

If the tree is grafted, then the root shoots of the rootstock must also be removed at the very base.

There is no consensus on autumn pruning. Some gardeners believe that it cannot be done. Others, on the contrary, consider the removal of weak and damaged shoots, as well as shortening of second-order branches to 30 cm, as one of the mandatory elements of preparing a tree for wintering. Both of them agree on only one thing: one-year-old seedlings cannot be pruned in the fall.

Autumn care activities

Regular feeding of cherries in summer, autumn and spring begins in the third year, when the supply of nutrients in the soil runs out and the tree begins to bear fruit, that is, to take the remaining nutrition from the soil.

Video: How to feed cherries in the fall

How to feed cherries depends on the availability of fertilizers. This can be organic matter - manure, compost, chicken droppings or green manure. If there are no animals or birds in the household, then gardeners use purchased mineral compounds. They also have a good effect on yield, but are not recommended for long-term use, as the soil is depleted.

The best option is a combination of organic and mineral fertilizers.

Organic matter for cherries

Organic matter is useful because it requires soil bacteria to decompose. Plant and animal remains serve as food for microorganisms. During their activity, substances called humus are released into the soil. Humus is black in color and rich in nutritional components.

It is better to add organic matter in the fall, as it takes time to decompose.

How to fertilize cherries in the fall:

  • rotted manure, humus or compost;
  • green manure or green manure;
  • bone meal or horn shavings;
  • wood ash.

Fresh manure is dangerous because of its nitrogen concentration, so fertilizing cherries in August with fresh material is not carried out. If there is nothing else, then proceed as follows:

  • Fresh manure is poured into the bucket to fill 1/3 of the volume.
  • Pour in water and leave for 2 weeks, stirring occasionally.
  • Next, the solution is diluted: 1 liter per bucket of water.

This “talker” is used after the tree goes into dormant mode and the movement of sap is stopped. In the area of ​​the trunk circle, they dig up the soil, fill it with slurry and cover it with a layer of soil. It is preferable to use fresh manure to feed cherries in summer or spring, when the tree needs nitrogen to gain green mass or maintain foliage in good condition.

It is safer to use wood ash, since it does not contain nitrogen, and the amount of potassium, phosphorus and trace elements is very large. Plant remains in the form of ash are also infused in water and poured into the dug up soil under the cherry tree, after which it is covered with earth. It is necessary to cover the ash with soil, since soil microorganisms process organic matter in the dark. They die when exposed to sunlight.

Using green manure for feeding

The cheapest fertilizer that is used to feed cherries in the fall is green manure.

You can sow any seeds that will grow in 1.5 months and be ready for use as organic matter. They are cut off or left in the winter, and in the spring they dig up the already decomposed remains with soil. This fertilizing of cherries replaces expensive manure and restores soil fertility well.

Bone meal is a long-lasting fertilizer that is used to feed cherries in August-September. It is applied once every 3 years, since microorganisms take a long time to process the substance and release phosphorus and calcium into the soil. When working with bone meal, it is necessary to use nitrogen and potassium supplements to maintain the balance of nutrients.

Minerals and complex mixtures for cherries

Fertilization of cherries in the fall is carried out with mineral substances, the composition of which can be controlled independently. To do this, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are purchased at a gardening store. For one adult tree you need 40 g of potassium sulfate and 100 g of superphosphate.

Fertilizers are dissolved in water and applied in the fall just before the cold weather, or scattered dry on the ground. Before this, it is necessary to water the tree abundantly, especially if the autumn was dry. Water protects the roots from freezing, and in the spring the tree quickly enters the flowering phase. Feeding with watering is the last thing this season.

How to apply fertilizers correctly?

Cherries are fed in three ways - by spraying the crown, watering and dry embedding of granules into moist soil. The first method is used to prevent, protect and control insect pests, the second is necessarily used in the summer, the third - in spring and autumn.

Foliar feeding

This method involves treating wood with the drug - bark, branches, leaves. With its help, productivity increases, metabolic processes in the plant accelerate, and the quality of the fruit improves.

This occurs by compensating for the deficiency of nutrients that reach the crown from the root system in insufficient quantities.

Rules for foliar feeding:

  • spraying is carried out in the absence of wind and rain;
  • It is better to do the procedure in the evening or early morning (at 4-5 o’clock), since the scorching rays of the sun during the day can burn the plant;
  • optimal temperature regime – +20-25 °C;
  • You must strictly adhere to the dosage of the drugs, which is indicated in the instructions for use.

Fertilizer at the root

Organic components and mineral preparations in dry or liquid form are added to the root. Root feeding allows you to saturate the tree and soil with useful elements, strengthen the immune system, increase the absorption coefficient of potassium by 15%, phosphorus by 13%, nitrogen by 15%.

Peculiarities:

  • when applying fertilizers dry, you must first loosen the soil, make holes up to 5-10 cm deep, add granules, cover with soil and water (it is acceptable to feed before rain);
  • the liquid mixture is injected directly under the tree, without digging, since when mixing the components the granulate has already dissolved, so it will quickly penetrate to the root system.

You can also learn how to feed cherries in the following video:

Don't be late and don't start early

Fertilizing cherries in the fall plays a significant role in development. The plant put a maximum of useful substances into its fruits, but itself was left with an almost empty trough. So we need to replenish food supplies. Autumn feeding is also important not only for restoring strength, but also so that in the spring the berries can get everything they need. After all, it takes some time to absorb many micro and macroelements. This primarily concerns root feeding.

You need to feed your pet regularly, according to a certain pattern. To avoid wave-like jumps that can lead to undesirable consequences.

Autumn fertilizing must be applied wisely. If you feed it with certain fertilizers, the tree will begin to sprout, which is not at all desirable before frost. Therefore, it is worth applying immediately before the start of winter. For more northern parts of Russia it will be October. But southerners can feed even in the winter months.

When to feed cherries in the fall

It is impossible not to note the importance of autumn feeding. It is necessary not only for the normal growth and development of trees in your beautiful garden, but also for the appearance of a good harvest.

If we talk about when to fertilize cherries in the fall, then the best time is mid or late September. The fact is that fertilizing enhances sap flow in the tree. If you perform the procedure later than the specified period, this risks freezing the cherries in winter.

Organics plus minerals

For a balanced diet, combined fertilizers must be used. It is good to combine organics with minerals.

Organic matter is added directly to the root. The best option is rotted manure or compost. You can also enjoy digging up some peat. There are a large number of nutrients that your cherries will receive. By the way, cherry has the same requirements as its elite relative. So, while taking care of the first, do not forget to take care of the second.

The radius of dropping organic matter depends on the age of the seedling and how far its root system has grown. Planting depth is at least 20 cm. The roots of the cherry trees go deep into the ground. Therefore, the closer the food is to them, the faster they will receive it and put it to work. Cover the layer of compost well. There should be no passages or gaps through which water will wash away the nutrients. And some of them do not like air flow.

It is worth adding mineral fertilizers to the soil in the fall. It is best to opt for superphosphate and urea. You can simply sprinkle them around on loose soil. But keep in mind that the soil must be moist. If it is dry, be sure to water it thoroughly. If the autumn is dry or your pet grows at a very high altitude, then you should dissolve these substances and then add more. It’s not difficult, but now, for sure, all the most useful things will fall into the ground, to the roots.

A mixture of superphosphate and urea is enough for 200 grams per young seedling. If he is older, then add this amount per square meter based on the calculation.

Do not pour or sprinkle granules directly at the trunk. This way you will not speed up the absorption process, and you may even burn the bark. In addition, the roots, which absorb nutrients as much as possible, are located further away. The central root does not help with this.

Rules for caring for seedlings

Experienced gardeners know that constant careful care is necessary for a tree only during growth and development. An adult tree does not need a special approach

But the result, namely fruitfulness and appearance, will depend on the correct care of young cherries, which is important

Watering mode

Watering is most important for a growing tree. But few people know that watering has its own very important features. In the autumn, it is necessary to water the tree as much as possible and very often until the onset of the first frost. During this period, the seedling requires the maximum amount of nutrients to prepare for the coming cold season.

Important! The tree should be watered in the fall exclusively with settled warm water (+25…+27°C)

However, it is necessary to pay attention to precipitation: if autumn is too rainy, then you should not add too much water on top of the natural moisture. Subsequently, the irrigation scheme is three-phase, standard:

Subsequently, the irrigation scheme is three-phase, standard:

  • when buds appear - for a faster “awakening” of the tree;
  • 1.5–2 weeks before the expected harvest - to help with productivity;
  • before the first cold days appear - to insulate the root system.

Feeding seedlings

When feeding seedlings with mineral elements, you must be very careful and act on the principle - do no harm. Since the lack of vitamins will not have such a detrimental effect on the plant as their excess or incorrect concentration

Feeding seedlings is the first process of enriching the soil with microelements, and the next such action will need to be carried out no earlier than in 2 years, so special attention must be paid to this point

As mentioned earlier, seedlings are fed directly during planting, adding fertilizer to the soil when the roots are buried. Thus, all microelements will be evenly distributed when watering and will provide maximum benefit to the plant.

As fertilizers, it is necessary to use humus with compost in a 1:1 ratio, as well as phosphorus and potassium mineral fertilizers (150–200 g and 40–60 g, respectively).

Pruning scheme and crown formation

Cherry, like other trees, has its own characteristics in the formation of the crown. The branches grow in layers in different directions, so the main task of the summer resident is not to interfere with the shoots developing independently, but only to slightly simplify this natural task for the tree.

There are many types of tree pruning (sparsely-tiered, cup-shaped, semi-flat), but for cherries the most preferable is cup-shaped (vase-shaped).

In this case, the crown must be formed as follows:

  • the central (main) trunk must be left unchanged;
  • you need to form equally thick branches that extend from the trunk in the shape of a fan.

When choosing this method, all cherry branches will receive the same amount of sunlight, which will allow the shoots to develop equally evenly and beautifully.

Protection from diseases and pests

Cherry is a relatively pest-resistant tree, but there are some diseases that can affect even such a resistant plant.

These include pests such as:

Possible tree diseases:

  • perforated spotting;
  • scab;
  • white rust;
  • anthracnose and some others.

But, despite the fairly large list of diseases, there are a number of preventive measures that will help avoid such an unpleasant process as treating a tree for emerging problems.

So, to prevent diseases and pests you need to:

  1. When leaves fall in the fall, be sure to remove all organic elements under and around the tree.
  2. Carry out seasonal whitewashing and carefully monitor the condition of the trunk.
  3. Do not neglect spring prevention with fungicidal and insecticidal preparations. In addition, in the spring you can additionally spray the tree with copper sulfate, urea or the Brunka preparation.

Loosening or digging

Among the tasks for caring for this species in the fall, it is worth considering loosening the soil or even digging. This way you will not only eliminate deep-rooted weeds, but also give oxygen access to the roots. Digging will also help the water flow into the ground faster. This is important not only for obtaining nutrients, but also for protection from frozen melt water. Our winters are unpredictable. The thaw is often replaced by a sharp cold snap. And puddles form near the trunks, which can cause death.

To better saturate the roots with oxygen, dig up the soil around it with at least a one-meter radius. This area will be good for young seedlings, but older ones will have to expand the territory.

The digging depth is from 6 cm. It all depends on the soil. On clay soils it is better to make the depth greater.

After digging, mulch the soil around the cherry tree. For mulch, you can use various means - sawdust, broom, peat, etc. But it’s better to take a closer look at mulching with compost. This will not only help preserve the soil and fight weeds, but will nourish your pet for a certain time.

Features of wintering in the regions

Cherry has always loved a warm climate, so it is good to plant and grow it in the southern regions and when sheltering for winter in the central zone. But thanks to the development of frost-resistant varieties, cherries were able to spread to more northern regions, such as Kuban, St. Petersburg, and Khabarovsk. But, despite the frost resistance, it is necessary to properly cover young cherries for the winter, and cultivate adult trees to the possible height.

You can properly cover the trunk of a cherry tree for the winter by removing various types of moss, lichens and other debris from it. Then pour sawdust or pine needles under it, and treat the trunk itself with a breathable material (burlap or agrofibre). You cannot use film, as the tree will rest under it. There must be a gap between the trunk and the covering material for air circulation. Also, this type of insulation also serves as protection against rodents.

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Caring for cherries in the fall and preparing seedlings or young trees for winter involves constructing an artificial shelter:

  • to make it more compact, collect the branches, if possible, into a common panicle;
  • drive frame stakes around the perimeter of the tree;
  • wrap these pegs with covering material (burlap, spunbond) to the very top, the result will be a covering cone;
  • You need to additionally cover the cherries with a layer of snow for the winter.

To understand in more detail how to insulate cherries for the winter, the video will show you. In regions with a strong decrease in temperatures, for example, in the Urals, in Siberia, cherries must gradually be converted into a creeping form. To do this, pruning must be done in the fall using a special technology, which can be seen in the photo. And for the winter, bend the branches to the ground and cover them with covering material, throw spruce branches and snow on top, the layer of which should be at least 35-45 cm.

Universal green manure

Green manure will offer assistance in feeding garden trees and bushes. These crops are real assistants to the gardener and gardener. They nourish, restore balance, and help fight weeds. There is not much work with them: sprinkle the seeds into dug up or loosened soil, level it with a rake - and wait for shoots. If the period is dry, you will also have to water it. The green mass that will grow before frost will fall off under the influence of low temperatures and cover the soil. Green manure contains a large amount of nutrients. These are not chemical compounds, but natural components that are perfectly absorbed and will not harm either the tree or the person who will consume the fruits.

HOW TO PLANT CHERRY CHERRY PROPERLY

We begin caring for cherries already during planting. Since this crop is not self-fertile, at least two (or better yet, three) different varieties must be planted nearby. “Ovstuzhenka” is considered the best pollinating variety. To plant cherries, you need to choose the sunniest place, well protected from cold winds and drafts.

Cherries grow well on a slope, but as a rule, gardeners have flat areas. In spring, melt water stagnates on them. And if you plant cherries in such a place, then the bark on the root collar will constantly rest on it, and it will quickly die. To avoid such troubles, for each seedling you need to make a separate mound with a height of 40 - 45 and a diameter of 70 centimeters. Cherry trees need neutral or slightly alkaline soils (pH 7 - 7.5), light, loose and rich in organic matter.

Cherries are planted as follows. First, dig a planting hole as deep as a spade bayonet. From there, natural soil is selected and drainage made of crushed stone (ideally limestone) is laid at the bottom. Artificially prepared planting soil is poured on top, adding compost, sand and leaf soil. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, stove ash and crushed chalk are added. The cherry seedling is placed on top and the entire root system is covered with the remaining soil. Thus, the cherry tree ends up in a comfortable flower bed, where neither rain nor floods are afraid of it. After planting, the cherries must be well watered (2 watering cans for each) and tied to a planting stake, which is driven into the center of the hole before planting.

Moisture for your pet

Autumn watering is extremely important. Autumns usually spoil us with rain. But there are also exceptions. Therefore, control the dryness of the soil in the garden. In preparation for wintering, cherries need up to 10 buckets of water. This is subject to a dry summer and a rain-poor autumn.

Watering is necessary on sandy loam or forest soils. In lowland areas, you should not overload your pet with excessive moisture. This won't lead to anything good.

Mulching is best done after heavy watering, if you think your tree needs it. This way you can retain moisture near the roots as much as possible.

Watering cherries

Sweet cherries especially need watering during the following stages of life:

  • in May, when the tree is actively growing and increasing its green mass;
  • in June, when the fruits are full,
  • in the fall before the arrival of cold weather, because... this helps the tree survive the winter.

The soil around the cherries is moistened once a week. Since the bulk of the roots are located at a depth of about 40 cm, watering should be quite abundant. Mature trees are watered in a ring groove along the periphery of the crown.

You cannot water cherries abundantly when the berries are ripening, otherwise they will crack, and also in the second half of summer, since this provokes increased growth of shoots and reduces the winter hardiness of the tree.

Worth it or not

In the fall, some gardeners prune cherries. But there are opponents of such work. At this time, the tree does not have the same restorative power as in the spring. The wounds will take a long time to heal and crack. And this is a breeding ground for diseases, infections and pests. Therefore, it is still better to postpone pruning until spring. But if such a need exists, then after all the actions with the branches, process the cut points according to all the rules. Immediately clean it with a special knife, and then coat it very well with garden varnish.

Removal of diseased branches and their damage may lead you to the need for autumn pruning. It is much easier to do this during this period. Defects are better visible, and the spread of diseases can be avoided the faster they are eliminated.

But it’s better to wait a while with the formation of the crown. By the way, this pruning technique is simply necessary for young seedlings. The cherry tree itself does not cope well with a good arrangement of branches.

It is better to give a certain look to the crown and trim particularly elongated branches in winter. The central stem of the cherry tree usually grows slowly. But the side ones are fast. This is not advisable. But we won’t cut the central one. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the growth of the side ones. Regularly trimming them will help not only give them a beautiful shape, but also achieve a better harvest.

Insulation

Beginning gardeners need to understand how to cover cherries for the winter if they were unable to do it on time. Further actions will depend on the duration and persistence of frost. If a decrease in temperature is not expected and the snow does not melt, then a snowdrift must be heated around the trunk; it will protect the tree trunk area from freezing. If the temperature is not constant and the snow will soon melt, then in such a situation it is better to insulate the trunk with covering material or use a box. All young cherry seedlings or heat-loving varieties need such insulation.

Attention!

Frost-resistant types of cherries in the middle zone simply need to be whitened and a small snowdrift shoveled into the base of the trunk. Using the same principle, you need to prepare cherries for winter in the Moscow region.

Preparing cherries for wintering involves watering the plant. Moisture evaporates from wood all year round, although in winter it is not as intense as in spring and summer. But trees that are not nourished dry out faster when exposed to low temperatures. Wet soil freezes less and has greater thermal conductivity.

So that the tree doesn't die

It is a great pity to discover in the spring that your pet will no longer be able to bear fruit - it has died. The reason for this may be not only the frosty winter, but also rodents. Hares can completely destroy a young tree. An older plant will suffer significant damage. Therefore, it is still worth wrapping the barrel.

All sorts of baits are laid out around the area. For example, "Storm".

In addition to rodents, sunburn is also a danger in winter. Young seedlings suffer especially greatly from them. Wrap their trunks with burlap. You can use spunbond. Good feeding and timely watering will also help prevent sunburn. A strong tree will not be as susceptible to disease. And he won’t be afraid of sub-zero temperatures.

Caring for cherries after harvesting - what to feed and what to do in the summer after fruiting

After harvesting, the gardener has no right to forget about the fruit trees. This also applies to cherries. “Thank” the plant, which spent a lot of nutrients on ripening the berries. High-quality care will help it recover, lay new fruit buds and overwinter without loss.

What care should be taken after harvesting?

Caring for fruit trees after harvest does not end there. Sweet cherries are a rather capricious crop, so they need to be provided with water, nutrients, prevent diseases and pests, and prepare for winter.

Cleaning the cherry tree trunk

Autumn care for cherries begins with putting the tree trunk in order.

When the tree sheds its leaves, weeds are pulled out and all plant debris is removed - fallen fruits and leaves, broken branches.

It’s not worth putting all this in a compost heap - spores of pathogenic fungi, eggs and larvae of pests often remain there over the winter. It is best to burn the collected garbage as quickly as possible.

After completing clearing, carefully loosen the soil to a depth of 7–10 cm and mulch the soil. To do this, use peat, humus, and rotted sawdust. It is undesirable to mulch the tree trunk with fresh sawdust (they acidify the soil) and straw (mice often live in it). Mulch will prevent the soil under the cherry tree from becoming overgrown with weeds again and will help retain moisture for a long time after watering.

Mulching the tree trunk circle for cherries is recommended not only after harvesting, but also throughout the season - this saves the gardener time on weeding, loosening, and prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil

An alternative to mulching is sowing green manure. In about a month to a month and a half, the green mass can be mowed and embedded in the ground. Such plants improve the quality of the soil and saturate it with nutrients.

Watering in summer and autumn

During spring and summer, the water that cherries draw from the soil is used for the development of the aboveground part, including the formation of ovaries and ripening of berries.

When the harvest is harvested, it “refocuses” on the root system. A lack of moisture in the soil at this time prevents it from developing normally and provokes drying out of the roots.

Accordingly, you can’t expect a good harvest next year.

5–7 days after picking the berries, water the cherries abundantly, spending approximately 25–30 liters per 1 m² of tree trunk circle. The soil needs to be wetted about a meter deep. If August is hot and dry, the same watering is repeated on the 20th of this month.

It is better to water cherries not at the root, but along the annular grooves - the thin suction roots are not located at the very base of the tree, they “spread” around the tree trunk

3.5–4 weeks before the first frost (late September-early October), moisture-recharging irrigation is carried out, increasing the rate to 45–50 l/m². The soil must be wetted down to a depth of about 1.5–2 m. This activity is excluded only if the autumn rainfall is very heavy.

Fertilizing after fruiting

Cherries in the fall need phosphorus and potassium. These macroelements are necessary both for preparing for winter and for laying flower buds for next year. Any mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen after harvesting are excluded. The tree needs them only in the spring, when it actively begins to grow green mass.

There are special “autumn” fertilizers with a suitable composition (ABA, Autumn), you can also use simple superphosphate and potassium sulfate (25–30 g/m² each). A natural alternative to chemicals is wood ash (2.5–3 liters per adult tree).

Fertilizers can be applied either in dry form or in the form of a solution or infusion. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are diluted in 10 liters of water, the ash is poured with the same volume of boiling water and left for 4–6 hours.

The method of application is chosen depending on how rainy the autumn is.

Special “autumn” fertilizer can be found in any agricultural store

Fertilizer is applied into 2-3 circular grooves about 20 cm deep (if dry fertilizers are used, the soil is first moderately moistened). The first furrow is dug at a distance of about 50 cm from the trunk, the last furrow approximately coincides in diameter with the crown.

Wood ash is a natural source of potassium, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium

Important! Some gardeners prefer to add organic matter in the fall to maintain soil fertility. This can only be done immediately before frost, when the cherries have already “hibernated”.

Otherwise, the nitrogen contained in organic matter activates the processes of growth and development of the above-ground part, which is completely unnecessary in the fall.

The approximate norm is 20–25 liters of humus or compost per adult tree.

Preventive treatments against diseases and pests

Sweet cherries are susceptible to all kinds of fungal diseases, especially coccomycosis, moniliosis and clasterosporiosis. After picking the berries, you can safely use any chemicals.

Carry out the first treatment with fungicides (Horus, Strobi, Previkur, Ridomil-Gold) 1.5–2 weeks after harvest, the second after another 1.5–2 weeks.

You need to spray the tree itself and the soil in the circle around the trunk with a solution prepared according to the instructions.

Clusterosporiosis or hole spot is one of the many fungal diseases that affects cherries.

Any general action insecticides (Aktara, Karbofos, Tanrek) are used against pests. Here, too, you will need two treatments with an interval of 1.5–2 weeks. They are carried out after spraying with fungicides. If during the active growing season the tree has suffered from any pest, special preparations will be required to combat it specifically.

The range of fungicides is very wide - you can choose Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, which has long proven its effectiveness, and modern preparations, including those of biological origin

Pruning: what and how to do in the fall

The main volume of work on forming the crown of the cherry tree and maintaining the desired configuration occurs in the spring. In the fall, limit yourself to sanitary pruning by removing broken, dried, thin, twisted branches that thicken the crown and grow downward. All cuts made that exceed a diameter of 7 mm are covered with garden varnish.

After radical autumn pruning, the tree will not have time to recover before frost, so limit yourself to a gentle procedure

Some varieties of cherries are prone to abundant formation of basal shoots. It must also be removed, while simultaneously clearing the trunk down to the first tier of skeletal branches (to a height of approximately 50–70 cm). This procedure will help avoid diseases and provide the tree with good aeration.

You should not leave root shoots - the tree spends its resources on its development, but in winter it will inevitably freeze out

Pruning is carried out when the cherry tree has completely lost its leaves, but at above-zero temperatures.

Preparing a tree for winter

Carefully inspect the wood for cracks. Gum often oozes from them. It must be carefully removed by scraping it with a spoon, fork, or the blunt side of a knife blade to dry wood. Then the “wounds” are cleaned with fine sandpaper, washed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture and covered with garden varnish.

Gum deposition greatly weakens cherries—it is unlikely that such a tree will be able to survive the winter without losses.

At the end of October and beginning of November, the trunk and the lower third of the skeletal branches are whitened in 2–3 layers. There is no point in doing this earlier, the whitewash will be washed away by the rains. The composition can be purchased in a store or prepared independently from slaked lime (2 kg per 10 liters of water) with the addition of copper sulfate (20–30 g) and a bottle of office glue.

Whitewashing is both disinfection and protection of wood from rodents

When the whitewash dries, the trunk is wrapped in several layers of burlap or breathable covering material, lined with branches of any coniferous tree. This will protect the cherries from rodents. Young seedlings at the age of 2–3 years can be completely covered by constructing a kind of “hut” from poles covered with the same covering material.

To cover the cherry, be sure to use air-permeable material - otherwise the trunk will begin to rot and rot.

Once enough snow has fallen, shovel it to the base of the trunk. The height of the “mound” is about 0.5 m. During the winter, the structure is renewed several times, at the same time breaking up the hard crust.

Recommendations from gardeners

Cherries that bear fruit need care no less than those on which the harvest ripens. Proper feeding and preparation for winter will help the tree survive frosts and provide the gardener with a good harvest for next year.

Source: https://dacha.help/frukty-i-yagody/uhod-za-chereshney-posle-sbora-urozhaya

Feeding depends on age and time of year

Already in the second year the seedling needs to be fed. It primarily needs nitrogen in early spring. Dilute 120 grams of urea in water and water generously. You can simply sprinkle it around the perimeter, but not on the trunk.

In late spring and early summer, feed the seedlings with urea. Three feedings at intervals of two weeks. 30 grams of this substance per bucket of water - and a bucket for each plant.

And now the darling is growing up. You may have already tasted your first berry. It grows not only in height, but also in the ground. The roots occupy an increasingly larger area. Therefore, we are expanding the square meters for complementary feeding. Urea can be applied to the furrows made. For a 4-year-old plant, 200 grams will be enough.

It is worth giving superphosphate and potassium sulfate for nutrition. The first will be enough 400 grams, and the second – 120.

A five-year-old tree is fed ammophoska in the spring at the rate of 30 g per bucket of water. Well, in the fall, like adults, organic. Humus, peat, compost are suitable.

And now the long-awaited period has come. The cherry bears fruit well, thanks for all the feeding and care. But don't stop. She continues to need nutritional nutrients. In spring it is urea. 300 grams is enough for a plant. Before wintering, depending on your climate (from late September to early December, and in the southern regions throughout the winter), it is worth adding organic matter. An adult plant will need up to 50 kg. compost or humus. An alternative to them will be peat.

Remember about mineral fertilizers. Superphosphate and potassium salt will provide the necessary nutrition. 400 grams of the first and 300 of the second - for each tree.

Features of caring for cherries in the fall and preparing for winter: general tips and recommendations

Many inexperienced gardeners are of the opinion that if a plant bears fruit, then it is not worth caring for it.

In autumn, the first step is to loosen the soil near the plant trunk. The growth and active development of the tree and the formation of large fruits depend on the quality of the soil.

The soil is periodically loosened as necessary. So that the roots receive a sufficient amount of nutrient moisture and oxygen. The earth is dug 8-10 cm deep. If the area is saturated with heavy dense soil, then the digging depth increases to 10-15 cm.

After digging, it is recommended to mulch the soil substrate. The procedure will help the earth retain moisture inside for a long period.

It is important to apply fertilizers in a timely manner

Fertilizing is applied in the spring months. But the procedure turns out to be untimely. While the inflorescences are blooming and fruiting, fertilizers are just beginning to decompose and be absorbed by the roots. Therefore, it happens that the tree consumes previously accumulated nutrients, while the applied fertilizers have no effect.

Worth knowing! But the plant should be fertilized on time. If you feed early, the nutrients will begin to decompose and be absorbed by the root system. This process will provoke active growth of cherry branches, which will postpone the period of withdrawal to wintering. Therefore, fertilizing should be done when the air temperature begins to approach 0 C.

It is imperative to water the cherry. If the weather conditions are not favorable with rain, the soil dries out, then the plant must be irrigated with moisture before switching to winter.

Before frost, it is recommended to thoroughly water or add in buckets the required amount of nutritious moisture, in the amount of 10 buckets. This amount will saturate the soil around the trunk for 1-15 meters. Then, in winter, the soil will not freeze, and along with it the roots of the plant.

The penultimate stage of cherry tree care before winter is pruning. Otherwise, parasites and diseases that have overwintered in the bark and diseased branches will resume their activity in the spring with renewed vigor.

The last stage before preparing for winter is applying fertilizer. The following scheme should be followed:

  • 1-4 years – organic fertilizers up to 20 kg, phosphorus and potassium – 100 g;
  • 5 years and older - organic fertilizers - up to 50 kg per plant, phosphorus - 400 g, potassium - 150 g.

Improper feeding negatively affects the development and fruiting of cherries. In this matter, the main thing is not to overdo it. In the autumn, nitrogen fertilizing should be strictly abandoned. You can lead the plant to abundant growth of branches, which will lead to freezing of the young shoots.

So that it is not sour

Cherries do not like excessive acidity in the soil. Take care of this feature. Apply dolomite, lime, and chalk at least once every few years. If you have not noticed the growth of horsetail or sorrel on the site, then such treatment will be enough once every five years. If there are indicator plants, then you need to add them more often - once every two years. The quantity depends on the indicator. Ideally, it is good to do an acidity test. When adding antioxidants, remember that their effect will be neutralized by organic matter and nitrogen. Therefore, enter everything separately, separating it in time as much as possible.

Naturally, the acidity of the soil does not affect the taste of the berries. But it affects the condition of the tree, its growth, and the absorption of nutrients. Which in turn will lead to crop loss.

We figured out how to feed cherries and how to care for this southern princess. But in any case, the primary role is played by the land, climate, and care. The experienced eye of the owner is what will help make the right choice when growing any plant. Cherries are no exception here. You can talk a lot about the amount of fertilizer applied, but the result will be optimal only with control. How your pet feels, what medications it takes and how it reacts - only the gardener will see this.

Be careful, love your garden - it will reciprocate your love and give you a good harvest!

Autumn pruning of a cherry tree

On various Internet gardening forums and in special publications devoted to the peculiarities of growing and caring for cherries, very different opinions are expressed about whether this tree can or cannot be pruned in the fall.

Opponents argue that such late pruning before the onset of frost can only damage the cherry tree. After all, this tree is not able to quickly heal its wounds, and in the absence of the necessary conditions it will hurt.

In particular, tree tissue may freeze, which in turn will cause cracking of the bark and, later, fruit rot. Even if robots are used to remove branches, the cut areas should definitely be cleaned with a garden knife and then treated with garden varnish.

On the other hand, it is in the fall that all damaged and disease-affected branches can be effectively removed, thus reducing the likelihood of the disease spreading throughout the tree. After pruning, in this case, all removed branches should be burned along with fallen leaves.

Formation of the crown of a young tree

The crown of a cherry tree may not form well on its own. This is especially true for the main conductor

It is especially important that it is 20 centimeters ahead of the other branches in growth. Therefore, it is very important to constantly monitor its length, as well as adjust the length of the remaining branches

The longest branches should be the lower ones, and the shortest ones should be the upper ones (naturally, all except the conductor).

It is for the purpose of adjusting the crown that it is recommended to prune in winter, when the tree is dormant. Thus, when thawing in the spring, it will be able to perfectly tighten the damaged areas.

How to feed cherries: feeding schemes from spring to autumn

Adding an article to a new collection

Sometimes gardeners forget about fertilizing cherries - and in vain! After all, a crown strewn with fruits is the result of properly fertilized soil. Let's figure out together all the nuances of this procedure so that you can properly plan your summer cottage work.

Let us remind you that cherries do not like wet and heavy soils. Tolerates drought well. Feels best on hills or hills. It blooms in May - early June, bears fruit from late June to mid-August, depending on climate conditions and plant variety. But cherries are more moisture-loving and less demanding on fertilizers. Blooms from mid-April to mid-March. Fruits from late May to early July. When feeding it, the main thing is moderation and balance.

To supply these fruit trees with nutrients, two types of fertilizers are used - organic and mineral.

Organic fertilizers - compost, well-rotted manure, sawdust, chicken droppings, etc. – improve the structure of the soil, making it loose and fertile.

Mineral fertilizers supply the plant with macro- (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus) and microelements (iron, copper, boron, manganese, sulfur, etc.) necessary for full growth, increased immunity and stable fruiting. Such preparations can be bought in the store, for example, urea (urea), ammonium nitrate, potassium salt, superphosphate, etc. Complex fertilizers with calcium, magnesium or sulfur are also used: nitroammophosphate, azophosphate, ammophosphate, etc.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied from spring to mid-summer. Later feeding will lead to the fact that the trees will continue to actively increase their vegetative mass and will not be able to prepare for the coming winter.

The main methods of feeding: root (soil) and foliar (by leaves).

For root feeding, dry compounds or their solutions are used. The finished fertilizer is applied to the tree trunk circle around the tree, retreating about 50 cm from the trunk. The older the cherry, the wider the trunk circle is made. For trees over 20 years old, it can reach up to 3.5 m!

Fertilizing using the root method is carried out as follows: thoroughly loosen the soil and abundantly water the tree trunk circle. For an adult fruiting tree - up to six buckets of water, for a young tree - up to three. After moisture is absorbed, fertilizers are used. Liquid preparations are simply poured into the soil in tree trunk circles, while dry preparations are evenly scattered over the surface of the soil and shallowly embedded into it with a rake or pitchfork. It is not recommended to use a shovel for these purposes.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvesting

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application of organic fertilizers, which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers (superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring, sanitary pruning is also carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees, and summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to the trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Special care for cherries and sweet cherries - feeding for all ages!

Feeding cherries depends on the age of the tree. Newly planted seedlings do not need abundant fertilizer. They have enough substances that were introduced during planting. But if you notice that the shoots have begun to grow more slowly, and the leaves are covered with red spots, it’s time to fertilize.

Young trees that have not yet begun to bear fruit regularly require organic matter: manure, compost, organic mixtures. Fruiting cherries are fertilized 3-4 times throughout the year. Mature trees older than 7 years – every other year. Also, when choosing the amount of fertilizer and time of fertilizing, it is worth taking into account the climate, the health of the tree, and the composition of the soil. These factors are decisive.

If the annual growth of shoots is less than 50 cm, then the young tree requires annual feeding.

Basic mistakes

When applying fertilizers in the fall, there are a number of contraindications. Experienced gardeners know all the intricacies, but beginners can make serious mistakes. They can lead to a slowdown or untimely acceleration of vegetation processes, activation of pathogenic microorganisms and plant death.

Among the main mistakes that garden tree owners make are the following:

  1. Fertilizing too early is the first mistake. The falling of leaves is a sign that the growing season has already stopped and fertilizing can be added.
  2. Nitrogen fertilizers in the fall cause abundant growth of young shoots. A large amount of nitrogen in the soil can cause the tree to resume vegetative processes before cold weather. The branches may freeze, and you won’t be able to get a harvest the next year.
  3. The opinion that a plant that has already grown and begun to bear fruit no longer needs feeding is erroneous. If you do not periodically replenish the reserves of nutrients in the soil, it will be depleted, and each subsequent year will be less productive.
  4. Applying fertilizers under conditions of insufficient watering can be dangerous for the tree. Chemical concentrates injure the roots, and the effect of their use will be the opposite.

Important! Preparing cherries for winter should be comprehensive. Fertilizer application may not be enough. The tree also needs annual pruning, loosening the soil, treatment against parasites, and in cold climates, shelter from frost.

How to feed cherries in spring

Spring feeding of cherries will allow the trees to “wake up” and begin active growth. If everything is done correctly, green pets will delight you with an abundance of flowers and ovaries, and in the future - a bountiful harvest. Before the buds open, you can spray the trees with 3% Bordeaux mixture, which protects against fungal diseases and is rich in copper. To do this, dissolve 300 g of copper sulfate and 300 g of quicklime in 10 liters of water.

The further scheme for spring feeding of cherries depends on the age of the tree.

Spring feeding of cherries and sweet cherries
2-4 year old trees
Before floweringSpraying with urea (20-30 g per 10 liters of water) or root feeding with ammonium nitrate (15-20 g per 1 sq.m of tree trunk circle).
Trees older than 4 years
Before floweringFoliar feeding with urea (20 g per 10 liters of water) or root feeding with ammonium nitrate (20 g per 1 sq.m of tree trunk).
During floweringRoot feeding with the following solution: 5 liters of mullein and 10 cups of ash per 50 liters of water. For 4-7 year old trees 1 bucket of fertilizer, for trees over 7 years old - 2-3 buckets.
2 weeks after the previous feedingRoot feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (per 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate, 1.5 cups of superphosphate, per 1 sq.m. - one bucket of solution).

Succinic acid helps improve the taste of fruits. Trees that have entered the fruiting season are sprayed with it before flowering (0.3 g per 10 liters of water).

To achieve excellent results, you should:

  • combine fertilizing with watering (3-6 buckets, depending on precipitation, tree age, soil moisture);
  • monitor the acidity of the soil (can be determined using litmus indicator paper or by the whitish tint of the surface): if it is higher than normal, add lime, dolomite flour, birch or plum ash; if lower, use oxalic, citric, malic or acetic acid;
  • spray the tree with a solution of honey (1 tbsp per bucket of water) - to attract bees and better pollination.

Cherry pruning

A good period for pruning is from September to November, depending on the region in which the cherries grow. You need to focus on the presence of foliage on the tree; if all the foliage has fallen off, then you can safely begin thinning the crown. It is at this time that the sap flow in the tree slows down and the loss of branches will be easier. It is better to trim excess branches in dry weather, this reduces the risk of infection. To avoid infection in the cut, the instruments used for circumcision must be disinfected. This can be done using a bright solution of potassium permanganate or a 5% solution of copper sulfate. At the end, lubricate the cut itself with garden varnish or special putty Blagosad. Trimming should be done with well-sharpened tools to ensure an even cut. The cutting angle should be about 45 degrees, outward from the crown. First of all, it is necessary to remove dry and diseased branches, shoots that grow inside the crown or are directed downward, and basal shoots.

Treatment of cherries in the fall against diseases and pests can be carried out in two ways:

  1. The first way is to spray the tree before the autumn leaves fall (late September early October). After this procedure, the leaves will turn black and fall off, thanks to which the tree will become more active in preparing for winter.
  2. The second way is to spray the cherries after leaf fall, when the tree is at rest.

If you choose the second method, the main thing to remember is that this procedure must be carried out before the onset of frost, because all fungicides work at a temperature of at least +6 ° C. It is better to use Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate solution to combat diseases. To prepare the solution, you need to take 100 g of dry chemical, pour in 10 liters of water, stir well so that the copper sulfate dissolves and then spray the cherries generously. Regardless of the chosen method, you need to spray again in the spring.

To prepare a regular slaked lime solution you need:

  • take 3 kg of quicklime;
  • pour lime into 8 liters of warm water (+40 °C);
  • Stir until completely dissolved and begin whitewashing.

It is necessary to whitewash young cherries in the fall, but at the same time use a lime solution that is 2 times weaker than when whitewashing mature trees. Or use other whitewash mixtures. For example, prepare a mixture of 9 liters of water, 1 liter of milk or whey, 2 kg of chalk, 1 kg of white or yellow clay and 100 g of laundry soap. Stir all ingredients thoroughly until completely dissolved.

Chalk and clay will give the mixture a white color and make it thicker, so that when whitewashing it will also be possible to cover up small cracks in the bark. Add soap to help the solution stick better to the cherry trunk. Milk or whey increases the bond of the mixture to the tree, but in addition it also acts as an antiseptic and suppresses pathogenic microflora that is located on the bark. A good solution would be to wrap the trunks of young cherry trees with spunbond tapes, which will not only protect the tree from burns, but also from mice and rabbits. The height to which the tree needs to be whitewashed or wrapped is the entire trunk and the lower third of the skeletal branches.

Preparing cherries for wintering involves watering the plant. Moisture evaporates from wood all year round, although in winter it is not as intense as in spring and summer. But trees that are not nourished dry out faster when exposed to low temperatures. Wet soil freezes less and has greater thermal conductivity.

Water after the leaves fall, but before frost. The amount of water a tree needs depends on the age of the cherry. On average, this is 60 liters per young tree, 150-180 liters per adult. Watering should be carried out in the hole around the perimeter of the tree trunk circle, making sure that the water pressure does not wash out the roots. To understand how much water has flowed under the tree before watering, you need to measure how many seconds it takes to fill a 10-liter bucket. If you need 100 liters for watering, and the bucket fills in 30 seconds, then to water such a tree, you need to leave the hose on for 5-6 minutes. The next day, the soil must be loosened; such soil will freeze less.

Summer feeding of cherries and sweet cherries

At the beginning of the summer season, you can add ammophoska, azofoska (nitroammophoska) - 30 g per 10 liters of water and a glass of wood ash. If there is a deficiency of calcium, zinc or other substances, additional feeding is carried out.

Summer feeding of cherries and sweet cherries
2-4 year old trees
Early summer
August
Trees older than 4 years
Early summerAmmofoska, azofoska or nitroammofoska at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m of tree trunk circle.
AugustFoliar feeding with superphosphate (25 g per 10 liters of water, per 1 sq.m. - up to 1.5 liters of fertilizer), as well as ash solution - 2 cups per 10 liters of water.

The last summer feeding can be combined with abundant watering, which is carried out in early August. Do not neglect these procedures under any circumstances, because... It is at this time that the buds for the next year are laid.

Useful tips

Success in growing cherries can be achieved by following the following expert advice:

  1. Choose well-lit areas with neutral soil for cherries. To improve its composition, when planting seedlings, you can mix equal parts of humus, wood ash and deciduous soil. It is better to plant these trees on slopes facing south and southeast.
  2. Preferred areas are areas with close groundwater (at a distance of 1–1.5 m from the ground surface).
  3. It is advisable to have cherries growing next to the cherries. Bad neighbors are apple, pear, plum and peach.

Important! Autumn pruning of cherries should begin after the leaves fall.
Otherwise, the plant will lose a large amount of nutritious juice. Cherries are not particularly demanding to care for; the main thing is to carry out basic agrotechnical procedures in a timely manner and not to overdo it with fertilizers. Then the tree will develop well and bear fruit abundantly with juicy, tasty berries.

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