Storing chrysanthemums in a cellar, basement, greenhouse, open ground

They say that chrysanthemums are unpretentious plants and require virtually no care. This is what motivated me to once have flowers in my garden. 2 years have passed, and I already have 3 fewer bushes (my favorite ones, by the way). Now I know for sure that, like any plant, these flowers need care. What exactly and in what time frame should be done with them in the fall? Let's find out!

Planting chrysanthemums in the fall is, of course, risky. Weakened by flowering, they may freeze. But if you insulate it well, then you don’t have to worry. You can cover it with spruce branches, put a fruit box on top, and put lutrasil or spunbond on it. This does not always help with heat-loving varieties, and plants sometimes freeze out. But there are reliable varieties. Let them be called “Korean”, but they are already acclimatized.

If you bought the bushes too late, when it was already snowing, then it is better not to plant them. It is no longer possible to plant in the snow. Even with shelter, the plants will not survive the winter, because they will not have time to take root in the cold soil. It is better to put such roots in the cellar for the winter. You can put them in a basin or boxes and fill the voids with earth. In winter, you can occasionally “water” them with snow.

Caring for chrysanthemums in the fall and preparing for winter shelter

It is necessary to begin preparatory work in different regions at different times. The timing sometimes depends not only on the climate, but also on the variety of chrysanthemums. The best thing to do is to wait until the bush begins to bloom and then begin to act. By the way, preparation can also be different:

Dig up the bush and send it for the winter in a cool place where there is no light.
Prepare the bush for wintering in open ground.

Now a little more detail about each of the methods.

Digging.

The bush is dug up and left for a day or two so that the roots and soil on them dry out.
The stems of the bush are cut off, leaving only cuttings of 17-20 cm.
Dry soil is poured into the bottom of the pot. The bush is being installed. Add soil to the sides of the pot. When there is enough soil and it completely covers the roots, the soil on top is lightly compacted.
The cuttings are shortened so that they protrude no more than 3-5 cm above ground level.

In this form, the pots are sent to the basement or other dark, cool place. It is worth digging up one bush from each variety. And leave the rest of the bushes in open ground.

Preparing for shelter.

At the beginning of autumn, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied under each bush. This will help the root system gain strength for the winter.
In order for the bush to be covered, it should be pruned. Cuttings should remain no higher than 15cm above the ground. This pruning is carried out immediately after the arrival of the first cold days.
Cleaning the bush from old leaves and branches.
If pests or diseases are found on the branches of the bush, it is worth sanitary spraying the bush with antimicrobial or special preparations.
Cover the bushes, preparing them for wintering.

What and how are chrysanthemum bushes covered? It is worth considering the landing site, climate and expected weather conditions. Why such difficulties? The fact is that in the shelter itself there is also a danger for the bush. Plants cannot tolerate not only severe, prolonged frosts, but also waterlogging. If the shelter is such that it accumulates moisture, the plant may overheat and die.

Shelter organization

Plants should be covered in stages. Initially, pruning is performed, and then hilling is done. When hilling, you should avoid the presence of holes and grooves in which excess moisture may subsequently accumulate.

Flower growers should hill the bushes in the ground so that they are completely covered. In harsh climatic conditions, it is additionally recommended to cover the chrysanthemum bushes with spruce branches or sawdust. But it’s worth starting the second protective layer after frosty weather has established itself.

Bricks, sheets of slate or other available material are used as shelter for wintering plant bushes. Protective walls are laid out of bricks around the rhizome and covered with a sheet of slate on top. Shelters are constructed from special agrotechnical or improvised material. Breathable agronomic material lutrasil or spandbond can be used as a roof. This design will provide ventilation and protection from heavy rainfall.

You almost always need to cover chrysanthemums for the winter, but not too warmly. A big mistake gardeners make is an excessively large layer of cover, under which the plant damps out. Those who do not want to risk rare varieties separate a small fragment of the root from the mother plant and store it in the basement. The main plant is covered and left to overwinter in the ground.

The simplified sheltering procedure is as follows:

The ground part of the chrysanthemum is cut off, leaving shoots of 15-20 cm.
The bush is covered with soil or peat.
A layer of foliage and spruce branches is laid.

In addition to the mulching method, you can preserve chrysanthemums in winter without digging them up using another method - planting in a trench. To implement this wintering method, it is necessary to build a depression up to 50 cm high. The depression is created on a hill, and its bottom is insulated with pine needles or spruce branches. The roots of the chrysanthemums are placed tightly together and lightly sprinkled with peat. Then the plants are covered in layers with polyethylene, boards and slate sheets.

Not everyone has the opportunity to keep plants in a dark room. Flower growers, deprived of utility rooms, have to leave them outside. To winterize chrysanthemums in the open ground without problems, you need to listen to the practical advice of experts.

Pruning chrysanthemums in autumn after flowering

Bushes are pruned when the bush has bloomed (or almost bloomed; I can still collect a small bouquet from the pruned cuttings). To determine the time of pruning, you need to be guided by weather conditions. As soon as the soil is covered with frost in the morning, you can begin to work.

You need to leave cuttings 10-25cm high above ground level. Do not rush to throw away the cut branches of the bush! It is with them, and not with soil, leaves or sawdust, that you should cover the bushes!!! In this case, the chrysanthemums are wrapped securely: snow will easily linger in such a “hut,” but at the same time, the planting site is well ventilated and the bush is not in danger of being blocked.

How to cover chrysanthemums for the winter in the Urals. Sheltering chrysanthemums for the winter

If you are ready to leave your chrysanthemums in open ground for the winter (frost-resistant small-flowered varieties tolerate this procedure best), after fertilizing, pruning and hilling, they need to build a suitable shelter.

How to cover chrysanthemums for the winter? The size and monumentality of the shelter again depends on the climate in your region. And if in the southern regions it will be quite enough to cover the trimmed chrysanthemum bushes with a half-meter layer of dry leaves or hay and cover them with spruce branches, then in the more northern regions the issue will have to be resolved thoroughly.

For a reliable frame shelter, you can use wooden boxes, pieces of slate, boards - and then cover it all with a thick layer of deciduous or hay mulch and cover it with a light, breathable covering material, such as spunbond, and secure it with stones or bricks.

It is better not to use polyethylene film that is impermeable to air, because... as a result of sudden warming, it will provoke a greenhouse effect, which will lead to damping off of chrysanthemums.

In the spring, with the arrival of the first warmth, the protective layer is gradually removed.

Proper preparation of any plants for wintering (including chrysanthemums of all varieties) is the key to their good health and excellent appearance next season. Take a little time in the fall to create suitable conditions for them before the onset of cold weather - and the plants will definitely thank you with lush flowering next year.

How to prepare chrysanthemums for winter in Siberia so they don’t freeze

In the harsh conditions of Siberia, it is necessary to prepare additional measures to protect the crop from frost. For this purpose, fences are built. An important condition is that these shelters should not fit tightly to the bush and block the free access of air.

What can be used for fencing:

Boards, boxes;
Bricks, stone;
Slate, metal tiles;
Covering material.

A “house” or frame is built from these materials ABOVE the bush, at a short distance from the ground. But this is not enough. When the first snow falls, it is worth throwing it on and around the shelter.

You can dig up one bush of each variety to insure yourself if the bushes freeze out.

How to cover spherical chrysanthemums for the winter. How to properly cover chrysanthemums

The method of covering chrysanthemums on the site depends not only on climatic conditions, but also on their type. The main enemies of garden plants in winter are high humidity and lack of snow on frozen ground. The main purpose of covering measures is to preserve the roots and vegetative buds of chrysanthemums. Which shelter is best suited for each variety?

Multiflora

The multiflora group includes low-growing plants with a spherical crown and many small flowers. These chrysanthemums can be stored in the ground in areas with a mild climate, without sudden temperature changes. The trimmed bushes are hilled to a height of 10-15 cm, making sure that no holes are formed nearby where water could subsequently accumulate. You need to start sheltering no earlier than the temperature drops to zero. With the arrival of more severe frosts, you can throw spruce branches and dry leaves on top, and later add snow mass as insulation. Where the soil does not freeze too much, the trench storage method is suitable.

On a note! For better preservation of flowers in trenches, dig holes that are not too wide (20-30 cm will be enough).

The depth of such a trench can vary from 0.5 to 1 m. Prepared and trimmed plants are placed in the trench close to each other; small specimens can be arranged in 2 layers. The remaining space is filled with loose, dry soil. The shelter is covered from above with a layer of foliage or spruce branches, and then with boards and roofing felt. As the last layer, a film is placed, on which leaves are also thrown, and then fallen snow is added. In spring, the shelter should be dismantled gradually, without removing all layers at once. Multiflora can also be stored together with a lump of earth in a basement or cellar.

Globular

In the southern regions, covering spherical chrysanthemums with spruce branches or straw with preliminary mulching of the roots will be sufficient. In the conditions of Siberia and the Urals, these delicate plants will not tolerate frost, so they are dug up after the above-ground part has dried, dried in a shaded place, the remains of the stems are cut off, cleaned of adhering earth and placed in containers with sawdust or chopped straw. Store rhizomes until spring in a cool, dark room.

Globular chrysanthemum. How to preserve in winter:

Korean

Korean chrysanthemums are distinguished by the greatest frost resistance. In warm climate zones, simple hilling is enough for them without the construction of additional shelters. If these plants die in winter, it is often not from frost, but from damping off. It is recommended to hill them up to a small height with a layer of loose soil, and then arrange a ventilated shelter from spruce branches. You can also build walls of several bricks around the perimeter of the plant, and put a layer of slate or roofing felt on top. The air remaining inside the shelter will not allow the plants to escape.

Dwarf

Dwarf chrysanthemums need careful insulation if they overwinter in open ground. The stems, cut to a height of 10-12 cm, are completely covered with dry soil, peat or leaves, and any covering material is thrown on top. The number of layers in the shelter depends on the growing region. If the winter is frosty, at least 2-3 layers of covering material are required. Some varieties of dwarf chrysanthemums do not tolerate wintering outside at all. They are moved to a bright and cool place, for example, stored on a glazed balcony or in the entrance of an apartment building, also pre-cut to a height of 10 cm.

In the greenhouse

If there is a stationary greenhouse at your summer cottage, you can successfully store chrysanthemums in it in winter. Flowers are transplanted inside the building during the flowering period, which prolongs the period of bud formation. When frost begins to dominate the street, the freezing stems of chrysanthemums will need to be cut off, leaving stumps 3-4 cm high. After this, the plants are covered with a layer of humus to insulate the roots and prevent them from freezing in extreme cold. If the winter is frosty, the thickness of the mulch layer should be 20-25 cm. Several layers of thermal insulation material are laid on top. In spring, chrysanthemums will need to be opened as soon as the outside temperature reaches above zero.

Care, pruning and covering of chrysanthemums in autumn in the Moscow region

In central Russia, sending chrysanthemums for wintering takes place according to the usual program:

Care.

Feeding. Sanitary inspection and removal of diseased parts of the bush. Spraying against pests and infections with special preparations.

Trimming.

In warmer regions, gardeners advise not to prune the bush at all, explaining that winter-hardy chrysanthemums have long branches that will bend from the winds and snow under their own weight, and will become protection in the winter. However, if frosts intensify or prolonged rainfalls begin in the spring, the bushes most likely will not survive. Therefore, it is worth pruning.

Shelter.

It is worth taking care of a shelter that would allow air to flow freely to the bush. Branches along with straw work best. But it’s also worth making sure that the snow cap protects the chrysanthemum all cold days.

How to cover a multiflora chrysanthemum for the winter. Rules for preparing plants for wintering

Helping the plant transition through winter is an integral part of every gardener’s autumn work. And in the case of chrysanthemums, this rule also applies. From the very beginning, it is necessary to carefully monitor the slightest manifestations of painful lesions on the shoots, leaves and flowers of the plant.

If such ailments have been discovered, then you need to deal with them as quickly as possible, completely eliminating the lesion and preventing its further spread throughout the flower rosette. But the plant requires especially careful control over pests during the onset of autumn and preparation for a long winter. It is very important here to maintain the healthy state of the entire plant in order to prevent the progression of the disease throughout the winter, because this may determine whether your chrysanthemum will overwinter or die.

Important points are also high-quality watering and fertilizer. During spring and summer, it is necessary to water the chrysanthemum correctly.

Did you know? The chrysanthemum is the national symbol of Japan. This country even has the highest award - the Order of Chrysanthemums.

As for fertilizing, in the spring you need to add something that will promote active growth and flowering, but this cannot be done in the fall. In the autumn, you need to feed chrysanthemums, which will maintain its healthy and strong appearance, and also protect it from freezing and death in the cold season.

After the arrival of the first serious cold weather, the chrysanthemum can be pruned from old, outdated or dried shoots.

Important! It is worth carrying out activities for pruning chrysanthemums as late as possible so that the juice from all shoots, even dying ones, goes into the trunk. This way you will protect your flora representative from unwanted sap loss and, accordingly, death in winter.

At the same time, a final inspection of the plant is carried out for putrefactive or mold damage. If any are found, there is no need to stand on ceremony with them, but clean everything thoroughly to prevent further infection.

In addition, the main, strong shoots should be shortened to 10-15 cm, while, as a rule, young shoots are not touched.

Chrysanthemum multiflora is a line of small-flowered, low-growing chrysanthemums with lush, dense and abundant flowering. This group has a genetic spherical shape, for which it is also called globular chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemum multiflora is not a capricious flower; the rules for planting and caring for it are quite simple.

How can you feed chrysanthemums in the open ground in the fall?

We have already talked about fertilizing the crop. But let's discuss in more detail when and how to do this.

The time to feed is when the chrysanthemums have bloomed. During this period, the culture is weakened and needs support to survive the winter.
Now you can find special fertilizing for chrysanthemums, which should be carried out in the fall. These are mainly potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. If you want to prepare a similar fertilizer yourself, then you should take more phosphorus than potassium.

It is not recommended to feed the bushes with either organic matter or nitrogen in the fall.

How to store chrysanthemums in pots in winter. Storage methods

To preserve chrysanthemum cuttings in winter, you can use several methods: for example, leave them in open ground, dig them up and plant them in pots or in a cellar, place them in a greenhouse or even on a balcony.

It is also important to ensure that the room temperature does not fall below +10 degrees Celsius.

In a flowerpot

Many gardeners keep small plants in pots, placing them in heated rooms. First you need to carefully dig up the flowering bush. In order not to damage the roots in the process, the soil around the bush must first be well watered, wait a little, and only then start digging. In the meantime, you need to start preparing the flowerpot.

It is better to take a wide and not too high pot, because the roots of the chrysanthemum are quite massive.

A drainage layer must be laid at the very bottom. You can use either fine gravel or broken bricks. Then you need to place the chrysanthemum in a flowerpot, and very carefully sprinkle everything with loose substrate.

During flowering, the pot can be placed on or near a well-lit windowsill. When the chrysanthemum has completely faded, you can start pruning it. After this, the flowerpots should be placed in a cool place, for example, in the basement, and stored there until spring. If young shoots appear during this period, they must be broken off immediately. In this case, the flowers will be very lush in summer. When the frosts have completely subsided, chrysanthemums can be planted in a new place.

In the greenhouse

In order to prolong the flowering of chrysanthemums, they must be transplanted into a greenhouse in advance. With the onset of the first frost, all stems will need to be removed, leaving only 2 centimeters of the plant above the ground. After this, wintering bushes must be sprinkled with a layer of dry humus. Its height should not be less than 25 centimeters. In addition, you will need to cover the chrysanthemums with any covering material.

With the onset of spring, you need to take care of the timely opening of the bushes.

If this is not done, then they will simply dry out, that is, die. In the case when the greenhouse is heated and the temperature inside it is within 5 degrees above zero, the plants will not need shelter.

In a container

Very often, buckets, boxes or any other container are used to preserve chrysanthemums in winter. It is necessary to fill the container with peat and coarse sand in equal parts. To store flowers, you can use warm basements or cellars, warm balconies or even sheds. The temperature in such rooms should not rise above +5 degrees and fall below +1 degree Celsius.

It is very important that the indoor climate is always stable.

In the cellar on the floor

The success of this option depends not only on the level of preparation of the plant, but also on how suitable the cellar is in which the chrysanthemum will winter. First of all, the room temperature should be within 3-5 degrees above zero. In addition, the cellar must be well ventilated. It should be free of traces of mold and any insects.

To store in the cellar, the plant must be dug up in late autumn.

This procedure must be carried out quite carefully, without shaking off the soil from the roots. Then the dug up chrysanthemums should be left for several days in the fresh air so that they can dry well. If suddenly the plant is infected, it must be sprayed using special insecticides.

Next, the chrysanthemums must be moved to the basement, where they can be stored directly on the floor or in a specially prepared box. The plants must be laid very tightly to each other, and covered with a layer of earth on top. If the cellar is very warm, the chrysanthemum may sprout in the middle of winter. However, they will be very weak at this time, so it will be better to get rid of them.

Chrysanthemums stored in the cellar do not require special care. It will be enough to inspect them once a month.

When the roots are too dry and limp, they should be sprayed with water. If mold or mildew appears on chrysanthemums, they must be removed from the cellar immediately. Those plants that are not infected are best treated with special antifungal drugs.

In the trench

You can also store chrysanthemums in a trench in winter. However, this is only possible in those regions where the ground does not freeze very deeply. In addition, the snow cover should be quite large. But in the spring it is necessary to clear the trench from snow so that it is dry. The depth of the trench should be between 50 centimeters and one meter.

Gardeners recommend making it narrow: this way the flowers can be preserved much better.

Chrysanthemums must be dug up and placed at the very bottom very tightly to each other. If there are too many plants, they can even be laid in two layers. They should be sprinkled on top with either dry sawdust or dry leaves. Then everything needs to be covered with spruce branches. In addition, you can add another layer of covering material. Boards or slate are suitable for this. You can additionally cover them with film on top. In the spring, the covering material will need to be removed, but this is best done gradually.

Features of planting, care and preparation for winter of multiflora chrysanthemums

These low-growing spherical bushes have their own characteristics and requirements, observing which we will have beautiful bushes that can decorate both balconies and gardens.

Multiflora chrysanthemums are replanted at least once every three years.
If the bushes are planted not in a greenhouse, but in open ground. It is worth choosing an area that will be illuminated not all day, but a maximum of several hours a day. Immediately after planting multiflora in open ground, it is worth shading the plants.
For better growth and flowering of the bush, the air temperature should be no more than 18⁰.
And even if chrysanthemums grow in a flowerbed, they can (and are most conveniently) planted together with flowerpots.
The soil in a flowerbed or flowerpot should be light and have good drainage. Soil composition: 40% of the soil should be peat (sand) and vermiculite (perliton).
Before planting the plant in open ground, organic matter (humus, compost) and sand are added to the ground.
When planting multiflora in open ground, the distance between the holes should be such that adult plants with a lush flowering “crown” can be freely located.
Mature bushes are more suitable for autumn plantings. Then the root system is slightly dried so that it can be easily removed from the flowerpot without injuring it. And it is transferred to the hole.
It makes sense to build a temporary small greenhouse over such plantings for better rooting of the plant.
After planting the plants, the soil under them is loosened daily and watered for 3-5 days.
In October, the multiflora is fed with superphosphate. This will help the plant survive the winter.
It is better not to leave a biennial plant in the ground for the winter, but to dig it up and send it to winter in a container. Just before that you need to trim them.
All measures to prepare the crop for winter are also relevant for these low, lush multiflora bushes: sanitary inspection, pruning, mulching from cut branches and phosphorus-potassium fertilizing.
It is advisable to stock up on spruce branches in advance to cover chrysanthemum bushes in frosty weather. Be sure to take care of a snow “coat” for the bush. And during a long, harsh winter, you can also build fences around the bush.

The most reliable, proven method of wintering is storage in a cellar. Trimmed plants are dug up in November before frost. Before storing, they are checked for rot. If it is detected, they are treated with fungicides and dried.

And yet, I believe that compared to other plants, chrysanthemum is unpretentious and requires very little attention and care. But how many positive moments and beauty it gives!

I tried to cover all the points. If you have any questions or want to share your experience, write! And don’t forget that your friends will be very happy to read such useful and practical articles! Give them the opportunity to become part of our project: leave a link to the article on your social networks!!!

How to preserve chrysanthemums on the balcony in winter. Storage methods

It is also important to ensure that the room temperature does not fall below +10 degrees Celsius.

In a flowerpot

It is better to take a wide and not too high pot, because the roots of the chrysanthemum are quite massive.

In the greenhouse

With the onset of spring, you need to take care of the timely opening of the bushes.

In a container

It is very important that the indoor climate is always stable.

In the cellar on the floor

To store in the cellar, the plant must be dug up in late autumn.

Chrysanthemums stored in the cellar do not require special care. It will be enough to inspect them once a month.

In the trench

Gardeners recommend making it narrow: this way the flowers can be preserved much better.

Chrysanthemums in a greenhouse

If a gardener at his summer cottage has a winter greenhouse, loggia, veranda or other room in which a stable temperature from zero to plus five degrees can be maintained in winter, then it is most convenient to store any chrysanthemums there. Falling asleep, pruned plants are placed in pots or buried (if it is a greenhouse) in the root system and containers. The soil should be very loose and permeable and kept slightly moist. At the beginning of the new season, the temperature and watering are increased, motivating the awakening of seedlings. This method is used to preserve, as a rule, large-flowered, late-blooming varieties, as well as plants for commercial purposes (early sale of seedlings, trade in potted flowers and bouquets).

How to take chrysanthemum cuttings

Autumn cuttings of chrysanthemums are carried out if there is a warm place for winter storage of flower pots in which the cuttings will take root. This could be a heated greenhouse, an insulated loggia, window sills on the south or southeast side of a residential building. In addition, devices should be installed in the room to artificially extend daylight hours.

For cuttings, choose the lower shoots of chrysanthemums coming from the root buds. They are separated from the mother plant; each branch 7-8 cm long should have 2-3 internodes. All side stems, upper and lower leaves are removed, the middle ones are reduced by ½ length. The lower ends of the stems are immersed in an aqueous solution of a root formation stimulator for 1 minute.

To plant cuttings, shallow mini-greenhouses are prepared: planting containers are disinfected with pink potassium permanganate, a mixture of sand and fertile soil is calcined in the oven. 1-2 cm of coarse sand or perlite is poured onto the bottom of the greenhouse, and up to 5 cm of substrate on top.

The day before planting the cuttings, the soil is well moistened. The cuttings are planted to a depth of 2-2.5 cm. The greenhouses are placed in a warm, well-lit room, regularly ventilated, and the soil is moistened. To root cuttings, it is necessary that the daylight hours be at least 12 hours.

Outdoor storage

If there is no suitable room, then chrysanthemums can be wintered safely outside. To do this, dig a trench measuring 50*50 or 70*70 cm. The rhizomes are placed tightly on the bottom (stems up), the voids are filled with peat or light soil.

As soon as the temperature reaches sub-zero temperatures, they begin to cover the chrysanthemums.

The first thin layer should create volume and provide ventilation. Fragments of slate, light reinforcement, and trimming corners are suitable. It is not advisable to use branches to avoid the development of fungus on chrysanthemums.
The second layer (about 0.5 m) is warming and absorbent. These can be dry leaves (without scab and fungus) or chopped straw.
The third layer protects the rhizomes of chrysanthemums from precipitation and damping off. A piece of thick film or roofing felt will do. The material is secured along the edges.

In such grooves, chrysanthemums successfully survive until spring. The downside is the inability to control the condition of the rhizomes.

Advice
Prudent summer residents prepare natural covering material throughout the season. This could be grass cut by a lawn mower, straw, pine litter, pine cones, sawdust. All materials are dried and stored until winter.

Some owners of glass or polycarbonate greenhouses use them to store chrysanthemums in winter. The bushes are dug up before frost and transplanted into a greenhouse, where they continue to grow and bloom. After the temperature reaches sub-zero temperatures (about 5-7°C), the stems of chrysanthemums in the greenhouse are trimmed, the bushes are covered with dry mulch and covered with lutrasil. In the spring, they begin to grow quickly and are transferred to the flowerbed already strong.

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Beautiful perennial garden chrysanthemum: planting and care for skilled gardeners

Photo from the site: zetaland.ru

Few gardeners refused such a beautiful and truly unusual flower as the chrysanthemum. There are legends and rumors about it, and in Japan and China cakes, salads and other dishes are prepared from flowers. It is depicted on many coats of arms, as well as seals, it is considered a symbol of longevity and prosperity, and above all, it is simply very beautiful and fragrant, and this in itself is a good reason to start breeding it.

Interesting

There is an ancient Chinese legend that one day a white dragon decided to become the ruler of the world and take the place of the sun itself in the sky. He flew into the sky and began to tear at the light with his claws and huge fangs, despite the blinding light emanating from him and the unbearable heat. Sparks began to fly in all directions, which, falling to the ground, became chrysanthemums. The dragon was never able to tear the sun from the sky, but its fragments now warm us on earth with beautiful blooms.

There is simply a colossal number of different varieties of perennial chrysanthemums that can be easily and simply grown in open ground. Breeders strive to make flower pompoms larger, but most often people still choose smaller, Korean varieties. There is a completely objective reason for this, because these types of flowers are much more resistant to frost, and our winters, as we know, are very harsh. Therefore, it is important to immediately find out when to plant perennial chrysanthemums, which will bloom until the very end of November, but will not die from the first frosts.

Photo from the site: econet.ru

It’s not for nothing that everyone considers these flowers to be autumn flowers, because in the open ground they manage to bloom only in mid-August, or even in early September, when children go to school. They tolerate frosts down to minus seven degrees Celsius quite easily, but stronger cold can finish them off, so you should be extremely careful, covering the flowers from frost on time and correctly.

Moreover, you should not think that in the middle zone and Siberia, where winters are especially frosty, chrysanthemums in open ground will definitely die, not at all. If you cut the stems down to ten to fifteen centimeters, and wrap the rhizome with spruce branches and fallen leaves, then they will not feel very bad until spring. To do this, you need to choose those garden perennial varieties of chrysanthemums, the care of which is not complicated and does not require mandatory digging in the autumn, so you can save your own energy and also enjoy magnificent flowering.

Basement preparation

The success of storing chrysanthemums is determined not only by proper preparation of the bushes for replanting, but also by the correct winter conditions in the basement or underground. Before moving plants for the winter, you need to make sure that the room fully meets all the necessary requirements.

In the place where chrysanthemums are kept, the following conditions must be met:

good supply and exhaust ventilation;
air humidity not less than 70%;
temperature within 0…+4°C;
absence of fungal and mold colonies.

It is necessary to carry out a number of activities and prepare the cellar, basement or cellar in advance. To do this, the room is cleared of plant debris and debris, the walls are whitewashed with lime, all internal structures (racks, shelves, bins and drawers) are treated with special preparations (a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture). Then the room needs to be dried thoroughly; to do this, it is left open for 10-14 days.

If any of the conditions for wintering chrysanthemums in the basement are not met, then it is necessary to take action to solve this problem and eliminate the shortcomings. Dampness can cause mold and pest attacks. Proper organization of the ventilation system and some internal redevelopment will help cope with high humidity. Previously formed mold must be removed with a metal scraper, then all surfaces should be treated with an antifungal solution.

Pests are destroyed with various insecticidal agents (spraying with drugs, fumigation with smoke bombs, etc.). The best results can be achieved if several products are used simultaneously. Temperatures that regularly drop below 0°C will require insulation of walls and ceilings. Otherwise, the plants will simply freeze. You may have to install heating devices to heat the air in severe frosts. But in this option, it is important not to forget about maintaining the required level of humidity.

In an overly warm room, chrysanthemums can wake up and actively begin to grow. Shoots that have not grown in a timely manner will be thin and weak due to lack of lighting; they are not suitable for planting in the ground. Such bushes do not take root well in the spring and bloom poorly in the future. If the temperature in the basement is optimal, then the chrysanthemums will lie quietly until the spring warmth and young shoots will not appear ahead of time. Temperatures will need to be monitored regularly and adjustments made if necessary.

Perennial garden chrysanthemum: planting and care, photos and recommendations

Photo from the site: 7dach.ru

In order for the planting and care of perennial chrysanthemums to be of high quality and provide them with the most comfortable conditions, you will have to work a little, since this flower is quite finicky, it requires special treatment, careful supervision, and also loves a lot of sun and warmth. Shadow, as well as moisture retention, is like death for them, therefore flowers need to be protected from such phenomena. So how can you ensure that perennial chrysanthemums are planted and cared for in such a way that you don’t put too much effort on yourself and get prolific flowering for a long time? The answers lie in the details, which we will talk about today.

Photo from the site: dachnaya-zhizn.ru

It is best to plant chrysanthemums in open ground for the first time in late spring, no matter what anyone says. It is optimal to choose a sunny day at the very end of May or at the beginning of June. This way the plant will have time to adapt to new conditions, which will allow it to subsequently overwinter without any problems.
Planting perennial chrysanthemums in the canopy and caring for it is fraught with the death of the plant due to a sharp change in temperature conditions and the stress of moving to a new place.
It is also necessary to select the soil and location of the beautiful chrysanthemums with special care. You need loose soil, a hill where moisture does not linger, and you should also make sure that it is not poor, because if there is a lack of fertilizer, the chrysanthemum may not bloom at all.
You shouldn’t overdo it with organics either. You can enrich the soil with a small amount of peat, but the main thing is not to overdo it. Then the plant will grow juicy and large leaves, but the flowers themselves may not appear at all.

Photo from the site: dachadecor.ru

Perennial chrysanthemums can be planted from seeds, and caring for young shoots is also not difficult and is accessible to everyone. Chrysanthemums will need to be sown in special boxes in February-March, and it is very important to provide high-quality lighting, as well as a temperature of at least plus 17-18 degrees Celsius.

How to plant chrysanthemums in the ground: practical tips and tricks

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It is best to choose a cloudy day for planting chrysanthemums, rather than a sunny one. If the weather is warm and you need to plant plants urgently, it makes sense to do it early in the morning or in the evening, and not at the height of the sun. Holes for planting should be made no closer than a distance of twenty-five centimeters for smaller bushes, and up to half a meter for larger ones.

Important

There is no need to excessively deepen the roots of the plants, just lightly sprinkle them with soil. There is no need to even compact the soil around the freshly planted chrysanthemum, since it likes the soil to be crumbly and loose.

Do not forget that a not very thick layer of drainage is first laid on the bottom of the hole; for example, ordinary river sand can serve as such. Next, very gently and carefully plant the flowers on top and sprinkle with soil. You also need to take care of support strips for tall plants, which can be stuck directly into the ground. You can water the chrysanthemums after planting with some suitable fertilizer. An excellent choice could be Kornevin, which shows very high efficiency. Insulation will also not hurt if it is cool enough at night, and for this it will be enough to wrap the flower with non-woven garden material.

Proper care is the key to abundant flowering of chrysanthemums

Photo from the site: hrizantemu.at.ua

You need to know that perennial chrysanthemums, the planting and care of which we are discussing, are actually quite unpretentious and hardy flowers. However, they still require care, and this should never be neglected if you want to enjoy beautiful flowers in your own garden or flowerbed every autumn. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate heat and heat, the optimal temperature for it is fifteen degrees, so it is worth taking this into account. To prevent the plant from suffering too much in the summer, it needs to be watered abundantly, so it can withstand all adversity.

It is better to water such flowers with soft water that has been specially left for 24 hours and contains few alkalis and acids. If the chrysanthemum dries out, it may not bloom at all, or even lose its buds, if timely watering is not provided during the growing season. It also doesn’t hurt to spray the entire plant during flowering; chrysanthemum loves water, but be careful not to overdo it. After flowering is completed, and also after the onset of cold weather, it will no longer be necessary to water it, as this will do more harm than good.

Photo from the site: dachadecor.ru

Chrysanthemum loves somewhat diffused light, so it would be wise to hide it under tree branches. You can choose a place where it is sunny in the morning and evening, and in the midst of the heat there is a light shadow.
Fertilizing with fertilizers specifically designed for these purposes must be done weekly, without skipping.
You also need to remember that flowers need pruning. The first is carried out during disembarkation, and the second two weeks later.

You also need to strictly ensure that the plant does not get sick, and pests can ruin all your work. Inspect the bushes regularly, remove dried flowers and stems, and also monitor the condition of the leaves. There are special formulations on sale for pests, but in case of diseases, it is better to immediately remove the plant from the flowerbed so that it does not infect the others.

Preservation by cuttings

If chrysanthemums were purchased in late autumn and it is not possible to winter them in a suitable room, then you can leave the flowers in the apartment. However, there is no guarantee of their safety until spring (even with lighting), so cuttings are used. Plants in pots are placed on the windowsill closer to the window, away from heating. Several cuttings (3-4 cm long) are plucked from the leaf axils. For their rooting, prepare small cups filled with nutritious soil.

The planting technique is simple: a depression is made in the middle of the container, sand is poured into it, moistened, then the cutting is immersed (about 1 cm). The glass is tied with a plastic bag, but loosely, so that ventilation remains. In such a greenhouse, a chrysanthemum cutting usually “sits” for 1-2 months, and then begins to grow. As soon as the roots become visible through the walls of the container or the first leaves appear, the cover is removed. Buds may form, but they are removed immediately. By spring, healthy planting material will be ready.

Chrysanthemums amaze with their varietal diversity, brightness, and original forms. But many are afraid to grow them precisely because of the risk of freezing. Fortunately, it is not difficult to preserve chrysanthemum bushes until the next season, even if there is no suitable premises.

Feeding and watering chrysanthemums in autumn

How to feed chrysanthemums in the fall, and how and when exactly to do it correctly?

Fertilizing chrysanthemums for the winter is done at the very beginning of September (or even at the end of August) so that the fertilizing has time to be absorbed and really adds strength to the plants, increases immunity and helps them increase their resistance to freezing. This is important - if you miss the right time and decide to feed the flowers closer to frost, you will do them a disservice - the chrysanthemums will go into winter weakened.

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used for autumn fertilizing. Nitrogen should not be used - they will cause the green mass of the plant to grow excessively, and the young shoots will die when the first cold weather sets in, having already deprived the plant of the strength it needs for wintering.

Fertilizing is carried out 2-3 hours after watering, on wet soil. On average, add 40-60 g of superphosphate and 25-30 g of potassium salt or potassium sulfate per 1 sq.m of soil.

What fertilizers to apply in the fall - types and dosage
Is it necessary to fertilize the soil with the onset of autumn and after the end of fruiting of country crops? Find out now!

What varieties of chrysanthemums can survive winter?

Not all flowers are difficult to care for. Many varieties can withstand not only frosts, but also severe frosts, characteristic of the cold regions of Siberia and the Urals, the unstable climate of the Leningrad region, and the Moscow region.

No. 1 - Oak

Chrysanthemum, which resembles a multifaceted flower, as if glued together from several layers of paper, has gained popularity among many gardeners due to its appearance, captivating aroma and unpretentiousness. The flower easily tolerates frosts and frosts that came to the region as a result of the anticyclone. With the advent of cold weather, only pruning is allowed, leaving 10 to 12 cm from the full stem. In cold regions, cover the soil with a thick layer of pine sawdust or dry straw.

No. 2 – Chamomile

Lovers of the most delicate daisies have always appreciated flowers that are visually similar to the forest beauty sprouting in the depths of the forest. Chrysanthemum variety "Chamomile" has snow-white petals in the shape of a drop and a greenish core. A variety of perennial crop, it simply tolerates frosts after pruning, and most importantly, it does not need digging and insulation with natural materials.

No. 3 - Red Moscow

A bright red-raspberry color is suitable for decorating and complementing any landscape design where the following plant colors are found: green, white, yellow and orange. A tall and moderately tall bush, it will easily fit on a well-kept lawn, borders along paths and even the perimeter of the house. At the onset of late autumn, the flowers are cut off, leaving about 15 cm of the total length.

No. 4 – Lilac fog

The variety is compared to the blooming of delicate sakura, despite the different colors. The tall bush, reaching up to 70 cm, allows the plant to form large peduncles reaching a diameter of more than 7 cm. The variety is characterized by a shortened growing season, which does not require special care and agricultural technology. Upon completion of flowering, the stems are cut by 1/4, leaving no more than 15 cm of each bush. Chrysanthemum does not need shelter, regardless of the climate of the cultivation region.

#5 – Korean

Based on the name, even an inexperienced gardener can easily guess where the chrysanthemum variety was bred. Korean breeders tried to combine several advantages into the variety: beauty, frost resistance and abundance of flowering. At the same time, there are still nuances in cultivation. To maintain annual flowering, in addition to watering and fertilizing, the gardener will have to take care of dividing the bush or removing the core from the onset of autumn.

No. 6 – Malchish-Kabalchish

An unusual variety that visually resembles the fluffy tail of a peacock. An artificially bred variety of Korean breeders is resistant to frost and light frosts, predominantly for the Central and Central Russia, most regions of Russia and Belarus.