Lilies: types, varieties, names with photos, care tips

Author: Natalya Category: Garden plants Published: February 07, 2019Republished: February 07, 2019Last edits: January 20, 2021

Planting lilies

When to plant

Planting in spring

Autumn planting

Caring for lilies

How to take care of the garden

Possible difficulties

Pests and diseases

Lilies after flowering

Bulb storage

Types and varieties

What lily?

Asiatic lily

Martagon hybrids

Candidum hybrids

American hybrids

Long-flowered hybrids

Tubular hybrids

Oriental hybrids

LA (LA) hybrids

OT (OR) hybrids, or orienpets

Literature

Comments

Gardeners in Germany love to tell a popular belief that a tiny elf lives in every lily bud... Why not? If elves exist, then you simply cannot find a better home for these cute fairy-tale creatures: graceful cups of various shades (there are no blue lilies... yet!), a strong stable stem with a ladder of narrow leaves, a delicious sweet aroma. They say that an elf is born with the blossoming lily flower and dies with them. Our specialists know how to extend this fairy tale.

When is it better to plant lilies: in spring or autumn?
How to protect lily roots from overheating in hot weather
How to “guess” what exactly your lily needs - sun or shade?
Why do lilies bloom poorly and wither?

Let's figure it out together.

Planting and caring for lilies

Planting: early autumn (late September or early October). Snow white lily is planted in August. In spring, only late-flowering species and varieties can be planted.
Flowering: summer and autumn.
Digging: before planting.
Storage: bulbs dug in autumn are stored in a moderately dry, well-ventilated area at a low above-zero temperature.
Lighting: depending on the type - bright sunlight or partial shade.
Soil: loose, fertile, well moistened and drained.
Watering: moderate and regular, abundant in the first half of summer and after flowering.
Feeding: three times per season: 1st - in the snow, even before shoots appear, 2nd - during budding, 3rd - after flowering.
Reproduction: usually vegetatively: by dividing nests, scales, bulbs, stem, and sometimes leaf cuttings. Seed propagation is possible.
Pests: lily beetles and their larvae, lily flies, spider mites, thrips, wireworms, beetles, mole crickets and rodents.
Diseases: onion rot (fusarium), wet (or bacterial) rot, brown spot, gray rot, cercospora, anthracnose, rhizoctonia, phytium, blue mold, penicillosis, rust, viral mosaic (cucumber and tobacco), tulip variegation, rosette.

Lily flower: care and subtleties of breeding

Lilies do not require daily watering, but make sure the water penetrates deep enough to the bulbs. Water plants with a balanced fertilizer every three weeks during the growing season. Avoid highly concentrated nitrogen fertilizers.

To grow a lily, constant and careful care is required in accordance with the agricultural technology of this plant:

remove pods when they appear;
remove stems and leaves when they turn yellow;
The mulch should be removed in late autumn.

To prolong the flowering period, remove flowers when they wilt. This prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed production.

Fertilizer

Particularly frequent application of fertilizing must be ensured during the formation of buds. And also in the stage of their coloring. If at this time the plant does not have enough feeding, the flowers will be small and dull. In the worst case, the buds dropped. Thanks to abundant fertilizing, flower formation is completed quickly. And the duration of flowering increases several times. Store-bought potash fertilizers are perfect. The last feeding is applied at the end of summer, when the bulb is very depleted. It is not advisable to feed the flower in autumn and winter.

Botanical description

The lily plant is a bulbous perennial. The size of the bulbs can be tiny - 1 cm in diameter, or they can be more than large - up to 30 cm in diameter. They are spherical or ovoid in shape, the scales are attached to the bottom, where the point of root growth is located, on the side opposite the bottom the scales do not close, so the lily bulbs look loose. The stem of lilies is straight, leafy, with few branches at the top, depending on the species and variety, from 15 to 250 cm. In some species, lily leaves are wrapped in a spiral on the stem, while in other species they create a basal rosette.

Lily flowers are collected in cylindrical, cone-shaped or umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 8-16 flowers, but some varieties have up to 30 flowers in the inflorescence, which bloom gradually from lower to upper. Flowers live from 3 to 9 days. In the center of the flower there are a pistil and 6 stamens with large anthers, around which there are 6 petals (more in double varieties). The shapes of flowers are varied - star-shaped, turban-shaped, funnel-shaped, tubular, flat, cup-shaped, bell-shaped... Often the size of the flower depends on the shape: turban-shaped lilies reach a diameter of 5-10 cm and are very similar to Chinese lanterns; funnel-shaped flowers are only 4 cm in diameter, while 15 cm in length; Flat-shaped flowers can be up to 25 cm in diameter!

The color of the petals is also strikingly diverse: snow-white, orange, apricot, soft pink, bright scarlet, dark purple, two-colored, with iridescence, with spots, strokes or borders... there are not only blue lilies.

The fruits of lilies are long capsules that ripen in October-November, containing flat seeds.

Transplanting and propagating lilies

With sufficient agricultural technology in one place, lilies can grow safely for 5 years, where during this time entire nests of new ones of different ages are formed from the first-planted bulbs. It is possible to start replanting them only at the end of the growing season, when the bulbs have finally taken shape - from the second half of September to the beginning of October.

Reproduction can be considered simple and successful with the help of young bulbs formed inside the mother bulbs, which by August are ready for such a transplant. All that remains is to separate them and plant them for growing according to known rules. Children planted before winter need shelter in areas with frosty winters.

Tiger lily and bulbous lily form aerial bulbs in the leaf nodes on the stem, which by the end of the season, when the leaves turn yellow, need to be separated, prepare a box for seedlings with soil and plant them there no deeper than 2.5 centimeters, and then place the box in a cold greenhouse for the next Plant in open ground in autumn. This will protect the baby lily from being eaten by slugs.

If there is not enough planting material, then you can resort to using large onion scales. The best time for this is early autumn. Carefully separate the outer healthy and undamaged scales of the bulb, not tearing it off the bottom, but grabbing a particle of it. After washing them thoroughly, soak them in a solution of fungicide or manganese rose water for half an hour to prevent putrefactive infections. Then place the treated scales in a transparent plastic bag with vermiculite, distributing them separately from each other.

Having carefully tied the bag and, without shaking it, place this mini-cultivator in a warm closet, where after 6 weeks the scales should produce small bulbs that will be clearly visible through the transparent bag. It also remains to carefully place the bag with the babies in the refrigerator on a shelf without shaking, to store greens until spring. In the spring, carefully separate the new bulbs from the parent scales, or not, and plant several copies in suitable pots. It’s okay that they will bloom only after 5 years, but if these are very interesting and expensive varieties, then the result will please you with its outcome.

Reproduction of most varieties of lilies is also possible by seeds, but, as in such cases, there is no exact repetition of parental qualities, although you can enjoy surprises. The seeds must ripen completely on the mother plant. Be sure to sow them immediately in a seedling box with nutritious, moist soil, and place it in a cold greenhouse for the winter. In spring, transfer to a heated greenhouse. The seedlings should be friendly, and should not be disturbed by replanting until autumn, only water them periodically without over-watering.

Growing lilies in the garden

Growing conditions

Since the lily grows in one place for several years and does not like transplants, you need to choose a place where the lilies will grow and bloom comfortably - a sunny area, protected from the wind. Lilies are very demanding when it comes to soil: the soil must be loose, fertile and with good drainage. As for the acid-base balance, different lilies prefer different compositions.

American hybrids, for example, love acidic soil, while tubular ones love alkaline soil. All other species and varieties grow well in neutral soil. About 2-3 weeks before the start of planting, dig up the soil with ash (only if you are not going to plant oriental hybrids - they love acidic soil), peat and humus, adding a little mineral fertilizer. Then level the area, tamp lightly and water.

Lily bulbs

Before purchasing bulbs, try to find out more precisely what type of lilies they belong to, because the features of their agricultural technology depend on this. When purchasing, try to choose juicy, healthy and fleshy bulbs, with not overdried scales and an intact bottom. Pay attention to the length of the roots - they should be no shorter than 5 cm. If you purchased the bulbs in the fall, then until mid-October, when you need to plant them, keep them in damp moss, sand or sawdust in a dark room with good ventilation or store them directly in factory packaging in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.

Before planting, the bulbs are cleaned of rusty scales with brown spots, rotten or suspicious areas and wilted or too long roots are cut out, then kept for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole or in the Maxim preparation.

Homeland of the lily

In the wild, lilies grow in the Northern Hemisphere: in Europe, Asia, several species in North America and North Africa. They occupy a vast territory between 68° N. w. and 11° N. w. Western China, Southeast Tibet and Northern Burma are especially rich in lily species.

Wild lilies are found in mountainous areas and foothills, in forests, in clearings and forest edges, in wetlands or open grassy slopes. Lilies rarely grow in the steppe zone. With proper care, cultivated varieties of lilies can grow in gardens everywhere.

Planting lilies

When to plant

Lilies can be planted in both spring and autumn. You can plant lilies even in summer. Planting lilies in spring avoids the risk of the bulbs getting wet and freezing in the open ground. In spring, roots grow better, so the survival rate of plants is higher, this is especially important for late-flowering lilies, such as, for example, oriental hybrids. In March, you can plant Tibetan and tiger lilies, as well as other fall-blooming varieties. Oriental, Asian and trumpet hybrids are planted as soon as the snow melts. Terry lilies are also best planted in spring at a temperature of 11 ºC.

The remaining varieties of lilies are planted in the second half of April, protecting the plantings from frost with a layer of straw or dry grass.

Species such as lily candidum, lily monofraternity, curly, Ganson, Canadian, as well as Schowitz lily are generally not recommended to be planted in the spring.

And yet, autumn is the best time to plant lilies, because their root system has time to develop before the onset of winter, and they will be able to withstand spring temperature changes perfectly, and you will help them survive in the winter cold. The best time for autumn planting of lilies is September, but the problem is that at this time it is difficult to find good planting material in stores. But in the fall, you can plant and replant lilies growing in your garden. If you plan to plant several types of lilies in your garden, then it is better to follow this sequence: first (in autumn) plant white lilies, since they have the shortest dormant period, then Caucasian varieties and only then American hybrids.

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Planting in spring

For those who want to know how to plant lilies, the time of year does not matter: both in spring and autumn the planting principle is the same. Coarse sand is poured into the hole, the onion is placed on it, its roots are straightened and completely covered with sand. Then fill the hole with soil and water it abundantly so that the bulbs take root faster. If you are planting oriental, Asian and LA hybrids, mulch the planting with sawdust or peat with a layer of 5 cm, and planting martagon lilies, snow-white or tubular hybrids should be mulched with leaf humus mixed with ash.

As for the depth of immersion of the bulb in the ground, here is an approximate diagram:

low-growing varieties: large bulbs - 10-12 cm, small ones - 7-8, distance between bulbs - 15-20 cm;
medium-sized varieties: large – 12-15 cm, small – 10 cm, distance between bulbs – 20-25 cm;
tall varieties: large - 15-20 cm, small - 10-12 cm, distance - 25-30 cm.

The deeper the planting, the later the lily will bloom, but its bulb will produce more children.

Autumn planting

In the fall, if your lilies begin to grow too densely, it makes sense to divide them and plant them. Planting and caring for lilies in the autumn consists of dividing and planting the bulbs. Actually, you don’t have to wait for autumn, but start replanting a month or a month and a half after your lily has finished blooming, especially if it is already three or four years old. Immediately after flowering, the bulb is weak and loose. Give her some time to recover. That is, if your lily bloomed in June, for example, then you can replant it in August.

Dig up the lily with a pitchfork so as not to damage the roots, shake off the soil, rinse under running water, separate the babies from the mother bulb with a sharp knife and soak them for 20 minutes in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, then dry slightly in the shade, trim the roots so that they are not longer than 10 cm, and plant the bulbs and children in the manner described in the previous section. Don't forget to mulch the bed after planting.

How to plant lilies

It should be remembered that the lily has an extremely negative attitude towards the transplantation procedure. In this regard, it is recommended to grow it without transplanting for several years.

It is also necessary to take into account other nuances:

A fairly well-lit place, protected from strong gusts of wind, is suitable for planting lilies.
The most suitable soil for this type of plant should be loose, well-drained and rich in nutrients.
In order for the flowers to grow better and hurt less, about 4 weeks before they are planted, you need to add ash to the soil and dig everything thoroughly.
Humus and peat and other mineral fertilizers, which can be purchased at a specialized store, are also suitable for fertilizing the soil.

When choosing a lily bulb in a flower shop, you definitely need to find out exactly what species this plant is related to. The fact is that the care features of different types of lilies are somewhat different.

You should opt for the strongest onions, on the surface of which there are no signs of damage or rot. It is worth considering that the minimum root length for bulbs of these colors is 5 cm.

Deadlines

Lily bulbs need to be planted in autumn or spring; in some cases, this procedure can be carried out in the summer. Planting in spring is a fairly popular option. In this case, the bulb will be able to take root well, become stronger and not freeze during wintering.

But experts still advise planting lilies in the autumn. The roots have time to set even before the first frost. However, the grower should take all necessary measures for the successful wintering of the bulbs. Planting of such flowers is usually done in the first autumn month. But at this time, the gardener may have difficulty purchasing high-quality bulbs. During this period, you can replant the lilies available on the site.

Planting scheme

It should be remembered that it is necessary to plant such plants in spring and autumn according to the same principle.

The first step is to prepare the hole by digging it. You need to pour sand into the bottom of the hole, and then lower the onion into it. The roots must be carefully straightened, and then sand must be poured into the hole again. The top of the bulb must be covered with soil, and upon completion of planting, the plant must be watered sufficiently. The planting depth directly depends on the type and variety of lily. So, it can be equal to 15–30 cm.

Quite deep planting delays the beginning of flowering, but at the same time such a lily produces a larger number of offspring. By the onset of autumn, such a plant has time to grow, and if necessary, at this time the lily can be transplanted and simultaneously multiplying it.

However, not in all cases it is necessary to wait for the onset of the autumn period, so the lily can be transplanted immediately after the plant has flowered.

Transfer

Features of transplantation:

you need to dig up the flower using a pitchfork (this will protect the bulbs from damage);
the root system must be doused with water;
then young shoots are separated and immersed for some time in a weak solution of potassium manganese;
the roots need to be trimmed so that they are about 10 cm long;
lilies are planted in the soil.

Caring for lilies

How to take care of the garden

Caring for lilies comes down mainly to watering and fertilizing. As for lighting, “the head of the lily should be in the sun, and the legs should be in the shade.” Here's a simple rule. Sunlight for lilies is very important in the first half of the day. As for the “legs,” it is advisable to plant low-growing garden plants between the lilies, which, by covering the ground, will prevent the soil from overheating and drying out, and, consequently, the root system of the lily.

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Lilies need moisture throughout the growing season, but it is most important in the first half of summer. But don’t try to keep the soil wet all the time; lilies don’t like that. In dry summers, watering is carried out at the root in the morning or afternoon; after watering, the soil must be carefully loosened, unless you have mulched the soil around the lilies to prevent drying out. After flowering, watering can be reduced, but you will have to water until late autumn.

The lilies are fed for the first time in early spring, before shoots appear from under the ground: complex fertilizer is applied at a rate of 30 g/m2. The same fertilizing should be carried out during the budding period. When the lilies fade, their bulbs will need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers for restoration: 10 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2. If your lily is a first-year lily, it would be better to carefully remove the buds, not allowing them to open, so that it retains its strength, gets stronger and pleases you with full flowering next year. It is also necessary to remove faded flowers from the peduncles, as they interfere with the development of new ones.

Possible difficulties

Are your oriental hybrids having a hard time overwintering? This may be the case if autumn in your climate is wet and rainy. The fact is that in nature they grow in places where spring and summer are wet, and autumn and winter are dry. Therefore, you just need to cover the planting of oriental hybrids with film during the autumn rains, removing it to ventilate the plants only in dry weather. This way you will save your lilies from rotting and prepare them for the winter in dry soil.

Do your lilies bloom for a short time and fade quickly? The reason may be that you planted them in a low area, and the lily does not respond well to waterlogging of the soil and stagnation of moisture in the roots. The second reason for rapid withering may be overheating of the soil: the soil must be mulched with reflective materials - grass clippings, sawdust, straw.

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If your lily gets sick often , it may be because you use manure as fertilizer. Do not forget that it is saturated with pathogenic microflora, and do not use it as fertilizer for lilies. Lilies do not tolerate organic matter at all!

Pests and diseases

Among the pests that pose a danger to lilies are the lily beetle with its larvae, which eat buds and leaves. The beetles can be collected manually, since their orange backs are clearly visible on the plants, but if they have already multiplied greatly, you will have to spray the lilies with Karbofos, Aktellik, Fitoverm or Aktara. Unfortunately, lilies treated with insecticides lose their attractiveness due to the fact that the leaves and buds become covered with brown spots.

The same drugs are used in case of damage to lilies by lily flies or aphids.

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Lily bulbs are damaged by mole crickets, wireworms, chafer larvae and thrips, which are very difficult to fight, but the following drugs can help you: Grizzly, Grom, Grom-2, Fly eater.

Against mice that like to feast on lily bulbs, they use dusting of beds with colloidal sulfur or plant daffodils and hazel grouse between the lilies, which repel rodents with their smell.

In the photo: Pest on lily leaves

From excessive soil moisture, lilies can develop fusarium (onion rot) and bacterial or wet rot, as a result of which the plants turn yellow and wither. Rotten bulbs must be removed from the ground and destroyed. If autumn in your region is cool and wet, then there is a risk of lilies developing brown spot, which does not affect the bulbs, but kills the plant stems. To save lilies, you need to spray them with antifungal solutions, for example, Bordeaux mixture or Fitosporin.

As a preventive measure, you need to annually burn all plant remains of lilies (stems, leaves), and also divide and plant nests of bulbs at least once every three years so that the plantings do not thicken. Also, mulch the soil between lilies to prevent weeds.

Rules of care

This flower does not require care. It needs to be watered on time and weeds removed. During intensive growth, lilies need a lot of moisture. However, you should try not to flood the plant, as it does not like excessive dampness. On hot summer days, watering is carried out in the morning and evening hours, and it is recommended to mulch the soil so that it does not dry out very quickly.

The first feeding is carried out in the spring after the shoots appear. When flowering begins, lilies are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. The fertilizers needed for fertilizing can be purchased at a specialized store.

Often, hybrid oriental lilies tolerate winter very poorly. It is recommended to cover such a flower in rainy weather, this will prevent the soil from getting too wet and the development of rot on the bulbs. Lilies need to be ventilated only when the sun is shining.

Lack of flowering may be a consequence of deep planting. The rapid wilting of flowers is associated with overheating of the soil. In this case, its surface must be mulched.

Only one pest can appear on a plant - the lily beetle. It is recommended to collect it manually. The fact is that chemical treatment can significantly spoil the appearance of foliage.

When the lily fades, you need to wait a while and only then collect the seeds. Watering is carried out until late autumn or before transplantation.

Bulbs must be stored correctly. So, the bulbs should be cleaned from the soil and dried.

Lilies after flowering

When the lilies fade, do not rush to cut off the flower stalks , but it is advisable to remove the seed pods if you do not need the seeds, and the leaves and stems will “work” until they wilt, delivering nutrients to the bulbs for the growth and flowering of the lily next year. In autumn, the peduncle can be cut, but not low (10-15 cm from the surface) and diagonally.

Continue watering, if necessary, until the time comes to divide and replant the lily bulbs.

After transplanting the bulbs and the end of the heavy autumn rains, it will be enough for frost-resistant lilies to be mulched with peat or coniferous shavings, while capricious oriental hybrids would be nice to be wrapped in spruce branches and covered with plastic wrap on top of the insulation. In the spring, the film and spruce branches will need to be removed so that it does not damage the hatching sprouts, and let the peat and sawdust remain as mulch.

What pests and diseases are terrible for lilies?

If the crop receives good care, the likelihood of damage from insect pests and diseases is minimized. However, sometimes the plant still gets sick. The most common disease is red rot. It usually develops in cold and damp conditions. To save the bulbs, the affected areas are cut off and treated with fungicides. Activated carbon is sometimes used. Over the next 3 days, the flower is not watered.

Sometimes the culture is affected by fungal infections. These include rust, fusarium and gray rot. To get rid of the disease, the bulbs are treated with special means - fungicides - before planting. The drugs Euporen, Fundazol, Topsin and Bavistin have proven themselves especially well. They spray lilies during the growing season.

Among the most common parasites are mealybugs, spider mites and scale insects. To control pests, special means are used - insecticides. But it is better to carry out prevention and prevent excessive dry air.

Root mites also cause considerable damage. For protection and prevention, it is important to use only healthy material for planting and treat the bulbs with karbofos before planting. The onion leaf beetle can be controlled by timely removal of weeds and collection of beetles. Treatment with chlorophos is also effective.

Excess or deficiency of moisture immediately affects the leaves. They wither. The flowers darken from the cold. And if the plant is exposed to very hot sun, the inflorescences turn pale. Therefore, it is important to constantly monitor the condition of the lily, properly care for it and take preventive measures. Then the flower will delight you with its beauty and health.

Bulb storage

It is undesirable to leave some varieties of lilies in the ground until spring, especially if winters are frosty and snowless. Thus, bulbs of oriental hybrids, Candidum varieties or royal lilies require extraction from the soil.

The storage location for lilies must meet the following requirements:

not be too dry so that the bulbs do not wrinkle over the winter;
be not too wet so that the bulbs do not become moldy or germinate prematurely;
the temperature should be moderate (not minus);
good ventilation is necessary.

Lily bulbs purchased or removed from the ground should be slightly dried and cleared of soil. Peat is poured into a wooden box, cardboard box or bag, bulbs are placed in it, which are then sprinkled with peat again, on which another layer of bulbs is placed. When the box is two-thirds full, it is stored in the refrigerator, basement or loggia. But don’t forget to check the condition of the bulbs from time to time: if the roots are dry, sprinkle the peat with water; if, on the contrary, mold has appeared here and there, wipe the bulbs with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate.

Second storage method: Place the bulbs in a plastic bag with damp peat, then inflate it, tie it and place it in a dark place at room temperature. After two to three months, the bulbs form babies. Without separating the children, transplant the bulbs into peat pots so that the tip of the scale is above the surface, and take them to a cool but frost-free basement. Two weeks before planting, bring them indoors and start watering.

Use in cooking

In cooking, lily flowers have found use in decorating desserts. Lillies are classified as edible flowers. Flowers are often used in oriental cuisine; they are served candied as an original sweet.

There is a recipe for a very tasty delicacy made from the bulbs and flowers of this plant. 50 grams of chopped onions are poured with warm water. Chopped ginger is poured with hot water and left for 10 minutes, then mixed with milk and salted. The mixture is brought to a boil and combined with the lily pulp. Then reduce the heat and cook until thickened, after which the dish is covered with a lid and left for another 20 minutes. The dish is served with bee honey and lily flowers.

Video

Types and varieties

What lily?

There are a great variety of lilies in nature and culture, and all of them are of interest to gardeners. We offer you a classification of lilies according to the latest edition of the International Register of Lilies, which describes more than 3,500 varieties.

Asiatic lily

The group under this name includes garden forms and hybrids of such lilies: tiger and David lilies, drooping and pleasant lilies, Maksimovich and dwarf lilies, monochromatic and bulbous lilies, spotted lilies and Dutch lilies. The Asiatic lily and its varieties have bulbs that are small in size and white in color. These lilies are hardy, winter-hardy, completely unpretentious to growing conditions, reproduce well by children and scales, and bloom earlier than other lilies at the end of June.

Among the Asian hybrids there are dwarf varieties 20-40 cm in height, and there are also tall lilies up to one and a half meters tall. Some varieties form “bulbs” - aerial bulbs in the axils of the leaves, and for this they are called bulbous. The flowers are white, yellow, orange, cream, there are varieties of two and three colors, as well as varieties of red, dark red and almost black. The lily flower is most often cup-shaped or turban-shaped, measuring from 8 to 20 cm, consisting of 6 petals, although there are several double varieties. Varieties of the Asian group:

Lily Adeline – medium-sized yellow lilies, early variety, blooming profusely;
lily Blazing Dwarf - a dwarf variety that blooms early and profusely, can even be grown in pots;
lily Flora Pleno - double lilies, medium-sized orange flowers, tall strong stem, blooms late.

In the photo: Asiatic Lily Adeline

In the photo: Asiatic lily Flora Pleno

Martagon hybrids

Or curly hybrids, which include lilies descended from the curly lily (or martagon lily), Hanson and two-row lilies, Tsingtaunt lily and honey-shaped lily. There are only about a hundred varieties of this group; they are characterized by tall growth, turban-like drooping flowers of delicate shades of different colors. Among the advantages of lilies of this group are frost resistance, unpretentiousness in the choice of soil and lighting, durability, high decorativeness, resistance to viruses and good resistance to all kinds of rot. But, unfortunately, martagon hybrids have not yet gained widespread popularity in our region.

Varieties of martagon hybrids:

Manitoba Fox lily - tree lily 1.8-2.4 m high, multi-flowered lily with dark pink and fawn flowers and black and yellow specks;
Lily Martagon Album - tall, multi-flowered, snow-white turban-shaped flowers with yellow stamens. Up to 50 flowers bloom at a time;
Lily Mrs. RO Backhouse - pink lilies with a yellow tint, dark pink specks on them.

In the photo: Lilia Martagon Album

In the photo: Lily Martagon Manitoba Fox

In the photo: Lilia Martagon Mrs. RO Backhouse

Candidum hybrids

Garden forms that gave rise to the snow-white lily, or, as it is often called, the royal lily, crossed with the Chalcedony lily and other types of European lilies. The specimen species is the terracotta lily (Lilium x testaceum). There are very few varieties of this species, but they are all very fragrant, the flowers have the shape of a wide funnel or tubular, the color of the flowers is all shades of yellow or white. In varieties of this species, the scales of the bulbs turn into leaves that form a rosette. The disadvantage of this species is its susceptibility to fungal diseases; in addition, these hybrids do not set seeds well. Varieties:

Apollo lily – white lily, fragrant bells 10-12 cm in diameter, collected 9-10 pieces in a brush;
terracotta lily (imbricated, testaceum) - turban-shaped flowers of cream color.

American hybrids

Derived from crossing leopard lilies, Humboldt lilies, Canadian lilies, Columbian lilies, Bolander lilies, Parry lilies, etc. In addition to them, the group includes Bellingham hybrids and Burbank lilies - about 150 varieties in total. The flowers are varied in both shape and color. These hybrids require slightly acidic soil, abundant watering and good drainage, and do not tolerate transplantation. They bloom in July. Frost-resistant. Varieties:

variety Shuksan - golden lily with brown spots, the tips of the petals are pink;
Cherrywood variety – red lilies.

Long-flowered hybrids

Garden forms from long-flowered lily, Formolonga, Formosan, etc. The flowers of these hybrids are predominantly white or light shades. These lilies love warmth, so in winter they have to be well covered. In addition, they are easily infected by viruses. But they are ideal for forcing and growing at home. The best varieties:

White Fox variety - flowers up to 12 cm in diameter, directed to the side, white with yellowish tint. The length of the tube is 16 cm, the height of the plant reaches 130 cm;
variety White Haven - white flowers with a light green center, yellow-orange stamens.

Tubular hybrids

They come from Asian species of lilies (Henry lilies), but without participation in the selection of such species as golden, beautiful, Japanese and reddish lilies. These hybrids are frost-resistant, but love fertile soil, are not afraid of viruses and fungi, and are easily propagated by any means. These are the most common representatives of the genus in our gardens, blooming for three months until the end of September. Trumpet lilies are divided into four subgroups based on flower shape:

tubular flowers (groups “Black Dragon”, “Golden Clarion”, “Sulfur Queen”, etc.);
cup-shaped or goblet-shaped flowers directed to the side (groups “Heart's Desire”, “New Era”, “Gwendolyn Anley”);
drooping flowers (groups “Christmas Day”, “Golden Showers”;
star-shaped flowers (groups “Mimosa Star”, “Mimosa Star”, “Havemeyer”).

Oriental hybrids

These are hybrids of East Asian species: reddish, beautiful, golden, Japanese and Henry lilies. Their flowers are tubular, cup-shaped, turban-shaped and flat. The oriental lily has all the advantages of the lily genus, as well as some of its disadvantages: its hybrids are difficult to grow, they reproduce poorly and are very susceptible to viral diseases and fusarium root blight. These hybrids bloom only in 5-6 years, the growth of bulbs annually is 3-5 pieces. Varieties:

Anais Anais – white lilies with a yellow central vein, yellow-green nectaries, purple stigma, wavy petals, curled tips, stems 1.25 m high;
Ascari - lilac-raspberry color with a yellow center and dark specks, the edge of the petals is wavy, stem height is 105 cm;
Barbados - large lilies (flower diameter 22 cm) of a dark crimson color with a white border along the edge of wavy petals with curved tips, dark specks and a white throat, a dark purple stigma.

In the photo: Eastern Lily Anais Anais

In the photo: Eastern Lily Askari

In the photo: Lily of the East Barbados

LA (LA) hybrids

Hybrids of long-flowered and Asian hybrids. These double hybrids are very resistant to fungal diseases, winter-hardy, have a wide palette of shades from white to dark red in all sorts of combinations, their flowers are larger, more beautiful and denser than those of the “Asians”, and the aroma is more delicate. The stems of LA hybrids are strong, but without “bulbs”. Varieties:

Brindisi lily is a large-flowered hybrid of pale pink color, blooms very profusely, tall;
Eulinner lily – a large-flowered hybrid of white color with cherry speckles, tall;
Freya lily is a chameleon flower: first large yellow flowers bloom, then they become creamy white with a characteristic yellow pattern. Tall specimen.

OT (OR) hybrids, or orienpets

Results of crossing oriental and tubular hybrids. Their stems are tall, strong, the flowers are very large (up to 25 cm) in the shape of a wide cup or funnel-shaped, directed to the side or upward. The color is pink, yellow, red, orange, there are multi-colored varieties. OT-hybrid lilies are grown in floriculture farms and mainly for cutting, but breeders are actively working to develop varieties for open ground. Varieties:

Beverly Dream lily is a very beautiful hybrid: star-shaped, white edge, wine-red throat;
Big Brother lily is a very large flower (more than 25 cm) of yellow-vanilla color with black stamens;
Black Beauty lily is a turban-shaped, downward-pointing, almost black lily (red-cherry with a lilac-violet tint), a thin white border along the edge, very long stamens.

In the photo: Lily OT-hybrid Big Brother

In the photo: Lilia OT-hybrid Black Beauty

And one more thing about lilies and more. In addition to the described species and their hybrids, in recent years the following hybrid groups have appeared: LO-hybrids - the result of crossing long-flowered and oriental hybrids, OA-hybrids - the result of crossing oriental and Asian hybrids, LP-hybrids - lilies obtained from crossing trumpet lilies with long-flowered ones , AA hybrids - from Olean lilies and Asian hybrids. And many others. It must be said that many beginning gardeners believe that the Amazon lily is one of the varieties of lilies, but in fact it is a eucharis flower, also a bulbous plant, only it belongs to the amaryllis family. As for such a curiosity as the black lily, there are many varieties of lilies with very dark petals in red, purple and brown shades, but the flower that is popularly called so is actually “takka”, or “bat”, or “ devil's flower,” and it belongs to the tacaceae family (Tassaseae).

Welcome to the kingdom of sophisticated lilies

Almost every flower lover can imagine a clearing in which hundreds of lilies grow. They are all different shapes, colors, heights and aroma. Is it easy to choose the most beautiful of them? Hardly. Perhaps the American botanist Jan de Graaf faced such a situation. To resolve the situation, he systematized lily varieties into groups. Each of them was based on the origin of the plant, since most of them require the same growing conditions.

All lily flowers were divided into the following groups:

Asian;
martagon;
candidum;
American;
long-flowered;
tubular and Orleans;
eastern;
interspecific;
decorative.

Having examined some of them, you can visit the enchanting kingdom of soda flowers.

Asian group of hybrids

This group includes lilies that do not require special attention. They are found in different places on the planet, even in Siberia and Alaska. Flowers tolerate harsh winters well. To do this, the shoots are cut at ground level so that the snow completely covers them. Asian lilies have small white bulbs that grow well in slightly acidic soil. All of them are quite hardy and unpretentious to growing conditions. They reproduce with the help of bulbous children. They bloom in mid-summer.

The Asian group includes hybrids that grow up to 1.5 m in height, as well as dwarf specimens - up to 40 cm in height. Some of them produce tiny bulbs in the axils of the leaf blade. For this they are called bulbous flowers.

According to coloring they are:

snow-white;
cream;
yellow and orange;
dark and bright red;
combinations of several shades.

The most famous varieties of lilies of the Asian group cause considerable admiration.

Variety Adeline

Charming flowers of the Asian group belong to the early garden plants. They grow to medium size. Most often the buds are yellow. Their shape resembles an oriental bowl. They are almost always distinguished by an abundant number of flowers per season.

Flora Pleno

Terry beauties grow up to a meter in height. Each inflorescence contains up to 30 buds, the diameter of which reaches 20 cm. They bloom, depending on the climate, from May to August. They tolerate harsh winters well.

Curly martagons

Charming hybrids of this group are particularly hardy. The flowers are frost-resistant, can grow in one area for a long time, and are resistant to various diseases. They are even practiced in Siberia. In mid-latitudes, it is better to plant them in shady areas to protect them from the scorching rays of the sun.

Arabian Knight variety

Magnificent tall lilies of the martagon group are considered long-lived. They tolerate winter frosts without problems and bloom profusely during warm periods. Each stem produces a huge inflorescence of 50 buds. They are burgundy-yellow in color with small speckles and orange stamens. The shape of the flowers resembles an oriental turban.

Guinea Gold

Lilies of this variety have buds that are yellowish, sometimes with a pink tint. The base of the flower is orange or yellow, the edges are slightly lighter. All petals are covered with many dark spots on the inside. Up to 10 buds grow on the stem. They bloom gradually.

Snow white candidum

The ancestor of this group was the snow-white lily. Although it does not include many varieties, they all have a persistent aroma. The buds often resemble a wide funnel or tubes. Color – yellow, terracotta or snow-white.

Variety Apollo

The white lily of the candidum group grows up to a meter in height. The peculiarity of the variety is that it does not have stem leaves; they are collected at the base into a rosette. The lower leaf plates are much longer than the upper ones, which makes the plant stand out against the background of other flowers in the front garden. Delicate lily buds, about 7 cm in diameter, are collected in original clusters on the top of the shoot. The only drawback is that flowers are susceptible to diseases and therefore require special care.

Terracotta lily species

Most often, the flowers of such specimens have a wide open shape. They look up and smell nice. They amaze with their rich color. Causes a pleasant sensation during the flowering period.

American hybrid group

Plants of this group are distinguished by their amazing beauty and charm. Quite often there are two-color versions of American hybrids. If the buds are light, you can see red specks on the petals. These lilies love a lot of light, so growing in open areas, they need regular watering. During the winter, they should be covered to prevent the bulbs from being damaged by the cold.

Cherrywood - a bright American hybrid

Many summer residents plant red lilies of this group on their plots. The rich color and pleasant aroma of the buds, which delight the eye in the middle of summer, amaze with their grace. They prefer non-acidic soils and require regular watering. They tolerate Russian winters well. When planting, drainage must be added to the holes so that the plants quickly adapt and do not get sick.

Cherrywood lilies do not like transplanting, so it is better to immediately choose a suitable place for such an elegant beauty.