Where to plant climbing roses and how to care for them?

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this marvelous flower in open ground will be discussed step by step in this article. Proper planting is the key to abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the climbing variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses you can turn even the most modest area into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, trellises, successfully disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with its presence by a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color range of this type of rose is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives. The bud sizes can range from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering vary, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once-flowering species and repeat-flowering ones.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can emit a pronounced aroma that can be heard from a distance; some have a barely audible, subtle and gentle scent.

Description of the plant

How and when to plant a climbing rose should be considered before you start growing a flower on your site. You need to understand in what conditions it will feel good and will thank its owners with lush flowering.

You need to understand what kind of plant this is. This species includes many climbing roses. They differ in some characteristics. So, the rambler rose belongs to the first category. It is a climbing plant that has long arching or creeping branches. Their length reaches 5 m or more. Plants of this group have small leaves. Semi-double simple flowers have a weak aroma and reach 2.5 cm in diameter. They are located along the entire length of the branches. Rambler rose blooms in the first half of summer for about a month. If you are choosing the best varieties of climbing roses that can withstand even severe frosts (under cover), give preference to this group of plants.

As a result of the hard work of breeders, rose varieties of the climber group were developed. These are climbing plants, the shoots of which reach a length of 4 m. These are large-flowered climbing roses. Their buds reach a diameter of 4 cm or more. Many representatives of plants of this subspecies bloom twice a year. Almost all varieties of this group are winter-hardy climbing roses that bloom all summer. At the same time, they are resistant to pests and diseases and thrive in the local climate.

The third group includes climbing varieties. They do well in the southern regions. These are plants with large flowers, the diameter of which ranges from 4 to 11 cm. They grow singly or form a small group of inflorescences. Many climbing plants bloom twice a season. These are roses that cannot tolerate severe frosts.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a location

This culture will thrive in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by soil that is unsuitable for climbing roses, be sure to dilute it with something suitable. Thus, sand is added to clayey soil, and clay is added to sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm); in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it doesn’t work out any other way, then before planting you need to replace the top layer of soil (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that in the chosen location groundwater does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cold weather, the roots will have time to take root in the new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 °C; catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April/first weeks of May are the most optimal times for spring planting.

Preparing the soil before planting roses

Experienced gardeners advise preparing the soil several weeks before planting roses. To do this, dig up the chosen place on the site, fertilize the soil with peat, lime and humus. Dig a planting hole 50cm deep and 50cm wide.

Before planting a seedling, it is necessary to trim its roots and shoots with pruning shears, leaving a maximum of 30 cm, and treat the cut areas with garden varnish.

Mix the soil from the hole with manure (preferably mullein) and cover the young rose bush with it.

Planting a climbing rose, when is it better in spring or autumn

Let me make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from those in autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will lag a little behind in development and will require increased attention from you. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

• So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches to about 20 cm in length, and the roots too, to 30 cm.
• Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
• If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
• The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, and lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downward and do not bend upward!
• Planting a climbing rose in spring involves adding nutritious soil to the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, of peat compost, will please your rose.
• After planting, trample the soil a little and water it abundantly.
• It will be very good if you add a drug with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, “Phosphobacterin”, to the water for this first watering. The phytohormone “Heteroauxin” is also perfect.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic film - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. Whether to do this or not is up to you; if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film every day and gradually increase the ventilation time every day. After stable warm weather has established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose bought in a store in spring?

Today in flower shops you can purchase seedlings of climbing roses with an open or closed root system.

Representatives with bare roots should be planted in the ground immediately. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated; if they are light green in color, then it is better to refrain from purchasing.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, sickly, and unlikely to survive the winter.

You should also pay close attention to the grafting sites; a correctly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “joint” site, which promotes fusion. If the grafting site peels and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting climbing roses from the store in spring, stages:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots and place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we remove it too; shoots that are too long can be pinched. Don’t forget to powder the cut areas with powdered charcoal or activated carbon.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system can be carefully examined. You can first add the stimulant “Kornevin” to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, straighten the roots as carefully as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. What the pit should be like and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been discussed a little higher. Water the rose thoroughly with water.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more soil (hill up). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored fabric - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Next, you will need standard care for a climbing rose: hilling, watering, fertilizing, removing weeds, tying and forming a bush.

Preparing a climbing rose for winter

This plant usually blooms on last year's shoots because that's where the flower buds are formed. Therefore, your goal is to preserve until spring the shoots that have grown during the season.

All feeding of the rose, if you have done it, should be stopped by the end of summer and the shoots carefully examined. As a rule, they look bright and healthy, but if some of them confuse you with their appearance, dryness or some other unpleasant signs, feel free to cut them out to the ground - it’s better not to risk it, the shoots grow back very quickly.

There is no need to prune the rose for the winter; you will have time to carry out sanitary pruning in the spring. But it is imperative to cover the lashes for the winter.

To do this, remove them from the supports and tie them into a bundle - it is best to do this with some soft material that does not cut or damage the young stems, for example, nylon tights. You need to tie in two places - at the bottom and top of the plant.

Carefully lay the shoots on the ground, first laying straw or dry leaves there so that they do not lie on the frozen ground. Pin the shoots with metal arches to fix them in this position - then the lashes will not rise.

Then cover the laid shoots with organic matter or just dry leaves and cover with any covering material - it is advisable that it allows air to pass through, because under the film the young stems can simply rot out on warm thaw days. Press them down on the sides with bricks or stones, and place boards on top - in such a shelter the plant will survive the winter well.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In hot weather and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil away from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day so that the plant does not subsequently experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried approximately 10 cm into the soil.

During the growing season, climbing roses require generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the bush has formed, the plant should be watered every 10 days. In this case, the water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper; 10-12 liters per bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both overmoistening and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so maintain a middle ground in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite demanding when it comes to feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with complex mineral fertilizer, for example, “Agricola-Rosa” (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - “Ideal” or “Flower” fertilizer. You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting mixture right to the root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of the drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemicals, you can simply ruin it.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year of planting

How does it differ from standard requirements? Its further development and splendor of flowering depend on proper care in the first year of a plant’s life. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If the days are sunny, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days have passed after removing the hilling soil, you can begin the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the side branches of the second order, a similar procedure needs to be done, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after these manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

In the summer, preventative irrigation against parasite invasion should not be neglected, and with the onset of autumn, rose bushes should be covered. Lutrasil, spunbond or coniferous spruce branches are excellent covering materials for this plant. The bush is completely covered. When a new spring comes, young bushes open first, older representatives later. In principle, all climbing rose bushes are covered for the winter. An old proven method is hilling with earth and sand (1:1) to a height of about 30 cm, with the arrival of autumn, and a little later - complete cover with the onset of the first frost.

Reproduction

Climbing roses are propagated in the garden in different ways. Several techniques can be used. They involve breeding these plants by seeds, layering, cuttings, and grafting. They differ in a number of features. The easiest way is propagation by layering. But when using cuttings there are usually no difficulties.

If you decide to propagate roses with seeds, then you need to purchase seed material at garden stores. If you collect it from plants yourself, they will not retain the characteristics of their variety. Therefore, it is difficult to predict what this plant will look like. You can, of course, experiment if it is not important for you to grow a rose with exactly the same characteristics as a year ago. But it will still be more advisable to purchase seeds.

Climbing climbing roses are most easily propagated by layering. The shoot must be selected in the spring. It is incised below the level of the kidneys. Next, the stem is placed in the prepared hole. It should be about 10-15 cm wide. The hole should be the same depth. A layer of humus sprinkled with soil is laid down. The cuttings need to be fixed in several places. It is covered with soil. The tip of the layer should remain above the surface. The next year, the cuttings are separated from the mother bush. It can be transplanted to your chosen location on the site.

Another simple way is to graft roses. This can be done with rosehip root. To do this you will need the eye of a cultivated rose. Budding is carried out at the end of July or in August. It is necessary to water the rose hips generously before carrying out this procedure. You need to make a cut in the shape of the letter “T” on the root collar. You need to pry the bark and pull it away from the shoot a little.

From the rose cutting you need to cut off the eye and the adjacent bark with a layer of wood. The peephole is tightly inserted into the prepared incision. This place is tightly fixed using budding material. Above the grafting site (approximately 5 cm), the rose hips are spudded. The bandage is loosened after 15 days. The film is removed completely next spring.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be hilled, then the climbing variety must be completely covered - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods; in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to select 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bundle, wrap them with twine and carefully tilt them towards the ground. Using metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend them), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped in protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud as described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care activity needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant’s life, branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (select 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal shoots. If these processes are not present, then approximately 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacement basal branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where new powerful growth began to form; subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short branches-peduncles are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up the pruning shears when the buds on the branches below begin to swell (last weeks of April/early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than expected. If you miss the time for pruning, the plant will devote all its energy to forming new branches and foliage, and flowering will be scanty.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, tearing off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes obvious after the bushes open in the spring. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the buds swell on the “living” branches.

Planting and care

Climbing roses - varieties of permanent flowering - prefer sunny areas located on the south side. Thanks to good lighting, the development of growth is accelerated, and already next summer after planting, abundant flowering can be observed. It is unacceptable to plant young plants in lowlands, as roses do not tolerate stagnant moisture.

Important! In cases where flowers are planted for the purpose of decorating an object, it is best to plant a seedling 50 cm from it.

Experts advise planting bushes in the spring months at sunset. In autumn, seedlings do not have time to adapt and most often die.

Continuously blooming varieties of roses will decorate the area and do not require complex care.

Planting process:

1. First of all, the holes are prepared, the size of which should be within 50x50 cm.
2. The prepared hole is filled with water.
3. The seedling is planted in a hole, which is filled with soil and compacted. If you trim the above-ground part of the plant by 15 cm, you can be sure of rapid growth and rich flowering in the future.

Important! If you still need to plant a bush in the fall, it is best to do this in September, when the rose has time to take root, but does not begin to grow.

In the following years after planting, the seedlings do not require complex care, but it is important to carry out in a timely manner:

• bush pruning;
• watering;
• application of fertilizers.

Pruning shrubs allows you to give the plants the desired shape. It is recommended to water roses every 7-8 days, and add organic matter and minerals to the soil as top dressing.

Note! Plants are planted at a slight slope to the support. If planting is carried out near the house, such a distance should be provided so that the water that will drain does not collect at the roots.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and gets sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by replanting. The best time to perform this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to its new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place in the spring is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of the roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the above-ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug up (moving in a circle), approximately 50-60 cm are retreated from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, it is better that the hole is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

Next, the plant is removed from the ground, excess soil is removed from the roots, after which the climbing rose is immediately transplanted to a new location.

When replanting, the same rules are followed as during standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downwards, the free space in the hole is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly compacted and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add more soil (it will settle slightly) and hill up your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with replanting roses - they belong to the groups of climbers and ramblers. Let me make a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing roses are called climbing roses; they produce coarse and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. The shoots of climbers are not very flexible; when replanting, they must be cut to half their entire length!

Ramblers are climbing roses with flexible and soft shoots, lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when replanting, all shoots that are more than two years old are pruned. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch off the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

New varieties of climbing roses 2019

One of the main decorations of any plot, flowerbed or just alley is the beautiful climbing rose. This is a large spreading shrub that is capable of not only growing in a huge flowering mass, but also entwining any arched structure, giving the desired shade, as well as enchanting with its dazzling charm of blooming roses.

The climbing rose is rightfully considered one of the most popular shrub plants, because it does not require any incredibly complex efforts for successful growth and development, but it gives large-scale, massive and, most importantly, long-term and simultaneous flowering of a huge number of inflorescences.

Every year, breeders develop a huge number of new variations and varieties of climbing roses, by crossing popular specimens, as well as risky experiments by scientists that impress with their color and amazing appearance. We offer the best ten varieties of climbing roses, according to experts and ordinary connoisseurs of beauty, which will clearly top the rankings and results of 2021.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only if seed material is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, independently collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your dacha or garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. This disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in subsequent stages of growing the plant. After that, we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover the top with a similar layer of cotton wool, which is also soaked in peroxide.

We place the resulting “sandwich” in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds and replace the cotton layers with new ones (also soaked in hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already sprouted seed can be carefully transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop correctly, they need to be provided with daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything correctly, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new stock is planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the easiest method of reproduction, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, you can use already faded or still flowering branches, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment must have at least two internodes; the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the bud. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves of the cutting are cut off, and the upper leaves are cut in half. Place the cutting in a pre-prepared container with sand or a mixture of sand and soil, deepen it by about 1-2 cm, cover it with a glass jar on top and put it in a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the jars) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small bed-ditch about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the ditch, and sprinkle it with the same layer of soil on top. Now we carefully bend the shoot, place it in the groove and fix it with metal staples. Then we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top facing outward. Then we take care of the bush as usual, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place where the shoot is buried. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Reproduction of roses by grafting (budding) onto rose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, rose hips should be generously watered.

An incision is made in the bark in the shape of the letter “T” right on the root collar of the shrub, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. An eye cut from a climbing rose is placed in this kind of “pocket”. The eye needs to be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we press the eye tightly to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (available freely in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is hilled up, and so that the soil rises above the grafting site by 5 cm (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring it is removed for good.

The use of climbing roses in landscape design

Knowing how to care for a climbing rose, from a small branch you can quickly grow a real garden masterpiece, the queen of your dacha and garden plot. In landscape design, roses are used both solo, on gazebos, arches, walls, and in combination with other flowers. In the garden, it is recommended to combine roses with flowers such as:

• daylilies;
• clematis;
• asparagus;
• sage;
• aconite;
• delphinium.

Important! Flower neighbors need to be planted at a distance from each other.

A climbing bush will transform any area

Climbing roses are incredibly beautiful. They add a bright highlight to a garden plot or flower bed. Planting and caring for these flowers is not very difficult. It is enough to create comfortable conditions for them - watering, loosening, thinning and cleaning, so that they can grow strong and delight with their numerous lush flowers.

The climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. 7 factors that influence the absence of flowers in climbing roses were experimentally determined.

1. Diseases. The most dangerous diseases of climbing roses are bark cancer and ash (powdery mildew). Prophylactic irrigation of bushes with Bordeaux mixture (1%) at the stage of dormant buds gives good results. To reduce the threat of bark cancer, plants should be provided with potassium fertilizers. At the beginning of autumn, you need to feed the climbing rose with potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) and/or a nitrogen-phosphorus additive, for example, superphosphate. A thorough check and timely removal of affected branches, as well as proper sheltering of roses for the winter, is a powerful shield against diseases that weaken the plant and can actually cause a lack of flowers.
2. Wild growth. Multiple shoots can often be seen near the root zone of a climbing rose. Of course, they should be removed in a timely manner, because they do not provide any benefit, they only suck the vitality from the bush. If you ignore them and allow them to continue to grow, your rose will gradually go wild and naturally stop producing color. You should remove wild growth as soon as it catches your eye.
3. Wrong shelter for the winter. The climbing rose needs careful shelter before the onset of cold weather.

   Proper wrapping of bushes involves creating an air cushion between the covering material and, in fact, the bush itself. Such an air layer will protect the plant from dampness during possible thaws, because dampness is as destructive for roses as low temperatures. Proper preparation for winter also involves limiting watering, starting in the first weeks of September. Loosening the soil is also prohibited. From now on, the rose should not be given nitrogen fertilizers; only potassium fertilizers are allowed.

4. Too many nitrogen supplements. Everything is simple here - nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the growth of green mass of the plant, which, in turn, negatively affects the setting of buds. If you overdo it with nitrogen fertilizing, the climbing rose may not bloom.
5. Unsuitable landing site. An incorrectly chosen location can cause not only a lack of flowers, but the rose can simply die. Before choosing a site for planting a climbing rose, make sure that there will be no strong drafts or shade.
6. Illiterate pruning. Everything should be in moderation; if you start pruning too actively and grab a lot of young shoots, the rose simply will not be able to recover and, of course, will not form buds. Trim the plant correctly, remove old branches that thicken the crown, and pay attention to wild growth.
7. Inappropriate soil composition. The soil for growing climbing roses has already been mentioned above. The composition of the soil is an important factor, plus it must be fertile, loose, and saturated with useful substances.

Landing rules

There are several recommendations on how to plant climbing roses. They need to be taken into account before starting to grow this plant. The fact is that all roses are quite capricious. Climbing varieties are no exception. Therefore, you need to organize the process of growing them correctly. You need to choose the right site.

Climbing roses need plenty of bright light. But it should hit the plant in the first half of the day. In this case, the dew on the leaves will dry quickly. This will significantly reduce the likelihood of developing fungal diseases.

But it is also worth considering that when the sun is at its zenith, it can cause burns on the leaves and buds. Therefore, you need to consider appropriate midday protection for this plant.

Another unfavorable phenomenon that can negatively affect the health and well-being of roses is draft and wind. The plant needs to be protected from this. Therefore, consider a fencing system. Do not plant climbing roses on the corners of buildings. There is often a draft here.

When choosing where to plant a climbing rose, it should be noted that the best place for it will be the south side of the house. At the same time, it does not require much space. For the rose, you will need to allocate an area about 0.5 m wide. In this case, the nearest object (wall or other plant) should be at least 50-100 cm away from it.

It is also important to pay attention to the soil in which the rose will grow. It should be permeable soil where groundwater does not come close to the surface. It is best for the site to be on a slope. If the groundwater is quite close, artificial elevations are made so that moisture does not stagnate in the roots. In some cases, the roots go down to a depth of 2 m.

Climbing roses grow best on loam. Too light or heavy soils will need to be adapted to the needs of this plant (sand is added to clay soils, and vice versa). Humus and phosphorus fertilizer are also added to the soil. It is recommended to prepare a site for growing roses six months before the start of the season.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Prevention and control of diseases or pest infestations is one aspect of caring for climbing roses. Spider mites, aphids, leaf rollers, thrips, rose sawfly - a list of the most active parasites of climbing roses.

Rose sawfly caterpillar on a rose

Rose affected by spider mites

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches manually, after wearing gardening gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Shar Pei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called traditional methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate the rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.

Spider mites love heat and drought; a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence of an uninvited guest. Old methods of control using thick tobacco infusion or wormwood infusion give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes treating roses twice with this preparation is enough for the mite to lose its position. The bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" has also proven itself in this matter.

According to reviews from experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works well against the roseate sawfly. The preparations “Actellik” and “Phosbecid” (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show good results, which apply not only to the sawfly, but also to other “lovers” of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about spring and autumn spraying roses with Bordeaux mixture - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial canker, gray rot, powdery mildew, koniothyrium (bark burn).

Powdery mildew

Bacterial cancer

Some diseases have no cure (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of developing the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most commonly recommended preventive measures.

Koniothyrium infection can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (including healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate; the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux mixture or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also be involved in the matter while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and then burning them, abundantly irrigating the plant with a solution of iron sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux mixture (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Planting in autumn

Climbing roses can be planted in open ground in the fall (from late September to mid-October) or in the spring (from April to May). You need to choose the right planting material or prepare it yourself. There are usually no problems when purchasing seeds. If you purchase seedlings, carefully look at whether it is a grafted plant on a rosehip root or a self-rooted rose. The features of caring for the plant depend on this.

So, a grafted rose must be planted to such a depth that the scion site is 10 cm below the surface of the earth. Otherwise, the plant will become depleted and die. If there are buds below the grafting site, they are removed. Otherwise, rosehip shoots may develop from them.

If you are planting a plant that is not grafted, before carrying out this work you need to perform some manipulations before planting. To do this, you need to soak the roots in water, and then remove all the leaves from the plant, and cut off broken, immature shoots with pruning shears. Sprinkle the cuts with charcoal. The roots and above-ground parts need to be shortened to 30 cm. The seedlings need to be disinfected using a solution of copper sulfate.

Planting holes usually have a size of 50 x 50 cm, but you need to focus on the size of the roots. You need to leave a distance of about a meter between plants. The fertile layer of soil, removed when creating a depression, is mixed with manure. A little of this mixture is poured onto the bottom, watering the hole with a sufficient amount of water. This procedure is performed 2 days before planting.

Immediately before planting, treat the roots with an antiseptic solution (for 0.5 liters of water you need 3 tablets of Phosphorobacterin, 1 tablet of Heteroauxin), after mixing it with 9.5 liters of clay mash.

A mound of soil with manure is poured into the bottom of the hole. Seedlings are placed on it. The roots should be treated with mash. They are sprinkled with soil, and then the soil is compacted well.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is for his favorite flowers to delight the eye with lush buds for as long as possible and to withstand the winter. It is simply unrealistic to mention all the winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them and briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully lives up to its name; its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Repeated flowering is a distinctive feature of this rose; it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can entwine an arch or wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, is low-maintenance, repeat-blooming, and has a light nutmeg aroma. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, and blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

Characterized by wave-like flowering, approximately five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot in color, gradually turning into a cream color. It loves sunlit places, has good disease resistance, and can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns and a weak aroma.

Photo of climbing rose variety “Polka”:

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of rich red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets; they are very fragrant and remain fresh for a long time.

Variety “Don Juan”, photo:

Variety "Flamentanz"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of the red color. Its buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petaled. It has increased frost resistance; powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of roses is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white and pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, approximately 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, you should be wary of black spot and ash.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

A small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, is disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (approximately 4.5 cm in diameter), externally reminiscent of cherry blossoms. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that the foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open over about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of rose variety “Bobby James”:

Climbing rose “Golden Perfume”

A repeat-blooming variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. The large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. The shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with the yellow flowers.

Variety “Golden Perfume”, photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy repeat-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. The luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, and is resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the “Parade” variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety characterized by increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, sophisticated aroma. The variety is hardy, repeat-flowering, and resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Continuously blooming roses

There are no varieties that bloom continuously, but roses have been bred that produce new flowers (in waves) in the same season. Thanks to such features, the bush appears to be constantly flowering, and it is these roses that are among the popular cultivars.

Lagoon

Bred in 2004, this rose captivated gardeners with its bright petal colors and disease resistance. Winter hardiness is average; in the conditions of the central regions of Russia and the south of the North-West, shelter for the cold period is necessary.

It blooms for a long time, profusely, forming inflorescences (6-8 buds each) of a crimson hue. The aroma is strong and pleasant. The buds bloom until frost, so it is recommended to remove some of the ovaries closer to autumn so that the plant does not weaken before wintering.

Metanoia

Everyone who has at least once seen the flowering bush of Metanoia remains impressed by this incredible beauty. Large, chrysanthemum-shaped flowers of the rose have a rich salmon color. Against the background of green foliage, the inflorescences look luxurious.

Flowering is long (all summer), while the variety is not demanding in care and is resistant to diseases.

Faya Lobby

An incredibly beautiful rose from the hybrid tea group, also included in the category of climbing varieties. It belongs to the varieties of the old type of buds, with a large number of petals of a bright red, crimson color.

Features: grown as a scrub, like a climbing rose, no aroma. It is successfully grown in regions with cold winters, but requires shelter.

Giardina without thorns

The new improved version of the famous variety does not have thorns on the shoots and blooms again.

The bushes grow up to 2-2.5 meters, the flowers are pink, with a rich aroma of fruit. This unpretentious hybrid looks great in vertical gardening compositions, preferably with supports.

Factors Necessary for Successful Growth of Climbing Roses

The culture is demanding in terms of growing conditions, but due to its high decorative qualities it is considered one of the favorites among discerning summer gardeners. When planted in compliance with agricultural technology, the climbing rose easily adapts; factors such as a good level of illumination of the area and soil fertility are important for this.

Location and lighting

The place for planting climbing roses is chosen taking into account the crop’s demands on lighting conditions. It is most often grown as a decoration for vertical surfaces to hide the unsightly appearance of the walls of an old building or to improve fences. With a lack of natural light, the plant lags behind in development and poor flowering is observed. To provide appropriate conditions for normal growth, choose a location on the southeast or east side for planting climbing roses. Sunlight in the morning is especially important for this crop.

Temperature

The climbing rose is comfortable in moderate summer conditions. With proper organization of the watering regime, it tolerates heat well. For safe wintering, it is necessary to build a shelter depending on the variety. Crops that belong to the 5th winter hardiness zone are covered especially carefully, since they are not able to survive frosts below -20°C. Representatives of the 4th zone group can withstand temperatures down to -30°C. In this case, a relatively light shelter option is suitable. Varieties that belong to the 3rd winter hardiness zone are not afraid of frost down to -35°C. With the exception of regions of Siberia and the Urals with harsh climatic conditions below -40°C, they do not require winter shelter.

Air and humidity

Rose bush grows well in moderately humid climates. In the dry season, it is necessary to increase the intensity of irrigation; spraying is also carried out regularly in the morning and evening hours. It should be borne in mind that excessive dampness increases the risk of fungal diseases. Rose crops develop comfortably at relative air humidity in the range of 40-70%.

Climbing shrubs do not respond well to drafts. Planting in areas exposed to the wind, near the corner of a wall, is not recommended.

Priming

For growing climbing roses, light, fertile loam is relevant. Well-drained soil with a neutral pH is suitable. It is recommended to build a hill for planting crops in case of close groundwater, taking into account that the roots of climbing shrubs reach a length of up to 2 m. If the area is swampy, it is important to provide a high-quality drainage layer in the arrangement of the planting pit.

The place for planting climbing roses is chosen near a vertical surface

Propagation of climbing roses from cuttings

Roses are propagated mainly by green cuttings. Rooting in this case occurs 100%. Summer and winter cuttings are selected for cuttings. It is best to start breeding at the beginning of summer.

Note! The material should be harvested from a healthy shoot. The cutting should have several internodes, which are cut at the bottom along an oblique line. Material without foliage must be placed on a previously prepared area. The soil at the planting site is mixed with sand. The workpiece should be planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, treated with a heteroauxin solution, covered and slightly shaded

Water the cuttings little by little every 7-10 days. Funds for growth are contributed at will.

With proper care, the climbing rose will become a real decoration of the garden and will delight you with abundant flowering every season!

All images obtained via Google images, Yandex images, Pinterest or where otherwise indicated.

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