Growing lilies in open ground: rules and tips

In the spring, hot days come for summer residents, full of work and worries. And all in order to enjoy a good harvest in summer and autumn. But, as they say, not by bread alone... Beauty around us is also necessary, and we create it ourselves with the help of flowers. Just think how many different colors there are! And they all decorate our lives, fill us with colors and create a good mood. This is worth the effort.

Lilies can be called the queen of the garden. Such delicate, fragile flowers cannot but delight, they delight the eye, they evoke an invariable desire to touch them. The variety of colors and shades allows them to blend harmoniously into almost any landscape and decorate any flower bed. White, yellow, orange, red - they are ideal for bouquets, refreshing the interior of the apartment, bringing warmth and joy to the souls of its inhabitants.

I will tell you in this article how to plant a beauty on your property, how to care for it so that it will certainly please you. Look at the lilies that grew in my garden, they really made us happy for a long time and became the decoration of my small plot.

When to plant lilies in spring and autumn in open ground

The very first question that arises for any gardener, whether he is a beginner or an experienced one who has not dealt with a specific species, is when is the best time to plant. For lilies, as for many other flowers, planting is important in spring or autumn. From practice, planting in the fall is a much more profitable enterprise in the future, since bulbs can be bought at good discounts by the end of the season, but at the beginning of the season the price is maximum. If you are not limited in funds, then, of course, you should please yourself with the new inhabitants of the flowerbed in the spring.

So, lilies are bulbous perennials of the Liliaceae family. This is where, perhaps, everything common to different species ends. Requirements for lighting and planting location are very individual. As experienced gardeners say: it is easier to choose a species for the specific conditions of a flower bed than to create conditions for a specific species. Therefore, if you have already chosen where to plant, study the following features: soil, lighting, protection from the wind, and then select a suitable flower. For example, it is believed that these flowers require a lighted area, however, oriental and martagon hybrids will suffer in the sun; their place is in partial shade. Preferences are usually described on the label of store-bought plants, but with breeders you just need to pay attention to the natural growing conditions or ask directly about it.

The next thing you need to decide on before the planned planting in the ground is the planting material. The bulb must be externally healthy, without mechanical damage. Elastic and without signs of rotting. And then you should pay attention to the condition of the sprout or its absence. In winter, lilies hibernate, so if you buy absolutely healthy planting material, then there should be no sprouts on the bulb during the period from the end of flowering (late summer-autumn) to April-May. The sprout in this case is an indicator of a failed regime. This does not mean that the flower will necessarily die, but it does mean that it will be necessary to wait until it returns to normal, and therefore there may not be a planned summer flowering.

There is a place, there is material... good luck! What to remember when planting in spring:

you can plant a plant only when you are sure that there will be no night frosts,
when the ground warms up to a depth sufficient for planting,
when there are conditions for timely watering.

For autumn planting:

the soil must not be frozen,
the desired variety should have already flowered naturally.
The planting of flowering plants should also be checked against the lunar calendar, then the efforts will definitely not be in vain. Unfavorable days in April and May are 5 and 19. Favorable days in April: 6-8, 20-26, 29, 30. In May: 6-8, 14-17, 23, 31.

Features of spring planting

In spring, and at any other time of the year, the planting technology is as follows. Pour coarse sand into the prepared hole, place the onion on it, carefully straighten the roots and completely cover it with sand. Next, the hole needs to be filled with loose soil and watered well to speed up the rooting process of the bulb.

Those who plant LA hybrids, Asiatic or Oriental lilies should take into account that the beds with such bulbs should be mulched using peat or sawdust. The mulch layer should be about five centimeters. If you planted a snow-white, trumpet or martagon lily on the site, then you need to take humus from the leaves as mulch, which also needs to be mixed with ash.

Pay attention to the depth of the holes for the bulbs. If you are planting low-growing varieties, then you need to deepen the planting material no more than 12 centimeters for large bulbs and 8 for small ones

The distance from one bulb to another should be 20 centimeters. If you choose medium-sized varieties, then the large ones are deepened by 15, and the small ones by 10 centimeters. The distance between them increases to 30 centimeters. Large bulbs of tall varieties are deepened by 20, and small ones by 12 centimeters. The distance should also not be less than 30 centimeters.

Please note that the deeper you plant the lily, the later it will bloom, but the mother bulb produces significantly more children.

Preparing the site and soil for planting

As already noted, the place for the lily should be selected based on the requirements of the species, which can be found on the packaging. It should be free of drafts, but with normal air circulation.

The neighborhood is also important. These delicate flowers go well with peonies, delphinium, alyssum and astilbe. Fern and juniper are no less suitable neighbors, but the combination with phlox may be too bright for the eye. But nevertheless, if you like a bright environment, you can plant them together.

They may also seem capricious in their requirements for the soil. However, these requirements are quite logical:

nutritional value
neutrality
looseness
good drainage

If the soil is too dense, the bulb may rot, and if the soil is too light, sandy, there simply won’t be enough moisture for the plant to develop normally.

If your site basically does not meet the requirements, then preparation will be necessary. What you can do:

To enrich the soil with nutrients, you can use compost or humus when digging; superphosphate and potassium sulfate (100g/50g per square meter); complex fertilizer such as Nitroammofoski.
Dense soil can be diluted with river sand and peat (1 bucket of these substances per square meter).
Too light and sandy soil can be corrected with peat (1 bucket per square meter).
Low acidity is corrected with wood ash or dolomite flour (1 cup / 200 grams per square meter).

Of course, it is worth adding that no living creatures take out all kinds of garbage in the neighborhood, be it people or green flowerbed inhabitants. Stones, rhizomes and sticks should be removed. And dig up the area for planting.

Rules for planting lilies

A pleasant feature of growing lilies is their ability to grow and fully develop in one place for up to five years. The main thing is to choose a suitable place for the flower in the garden. Lilies are lovers of moderately moist places in partial shade with well-drained soil.

The most favorable period for planting lilies is at the end of September, when the plant is still dormant. Pre-planting measures include removing damaged scales, shortening elongated roots and treating the bulbs with a systemic fungicide. Lilies are very responsive to the use of growth stimulants, so they can also be safely used. For example, first we treat the bulbs with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole for 20 minutes, dry them and keep them in epine for an hour.

Lilies are planted in holes with a diameter of up to 40 cm, if the bulbs are large, to a depth of at least 15 cm. Prepare good drainage at the bottom of the hole in advance, this can be a layer of gravel or sand up to 5 cm. Pour a layer of soil on top, optimally also up to 5 cm .

Plant lily bulbs one at a time in each such planting hole and, compacting the soil around the plant, fill them in so that the soil completely covers the top of the bulb. Do not forget that the optimal depth for planting the bulb is 15 cm. Then mark the place where the lily is planted, forming a circle around the planting hole with your hands on the surface of the earth, and pour in a handful of granular fertilizers.

How to plant lilies correctly - tips for beginners

The first most important piece of advice is – YOU WILL DEFINITELY SUCCEED IT, DON’T BE AFRAID. A positive attitude will help you concentrate and get great results.

As for the landing itself:

Carefully study the requirements of the species, carefully select a place, prepare it as described in the previous paragraph.
Dig planting holes. There is a sufficient distance of 20-30 centimeters between the holes. But you need to deepen the bulb to three times its height. If you have a bulb 4 centimeters high, then the hole should be 12.
If you are planting a tall variety, then install a support for the future plant next to the hole so that it is not broken by the wind. When installing a support after the fact, there is a possibility of damaging the bulb itself and thus destroying the plant.
When digging a hole, it is worth putting a drainage layer (expanded clay, brick, etc.) on the bottom, fertile soil on top, and sand as the last layer.
The onion is placed flat on the sand, bottom down.
After planting, it is necessary to water the hole generously. If the soil settles, it is necessary to fill it up to the previous level.

All these tips seem complicated only at first; in practice, it all takes very little time, but the result will be gorgeous.

Rules for transplanting lilies

Lilies can grow in one place for at least 4-5 years, then they should be replanted. The process itself is called “transplantation” only conditionally. You can plant them again in the same area after certain manipulations.

It is necessary to undergo a transplant due to the fact that the mother's bulb, starting from the 4th year, forms children around itself. As a result, the nest grows.

If you do not dig up and plant overgrown nests, the flowering of the lily will slow down and then stop altogether.

IMPORTANT: Oriental hybrids, which are quite difficult to grow children, should be replanted only after 9-10 years. To grow them, the soil is filled with a large amount of nutrients. It is better to transplant lilies in the fall, when the dormant period begins

It is important to do this before the first frost so that the transplanted bulbs have time to take root. If the autumn is too warm, then it is better to delay the process so that the transplanted specimens do not begin to grow

It is better to transplant lilies in the fall, when the dormant period begins.

When transplanting, the bulb is removed from the ground and the children are separated. Then they are washed in a solution of karbofos for about 15 - 20 minutes.

You need to dig up the bulb with the utmost care. Any damage will lead to her death

After processing, the bulbs need to be dried in the shade and the roots trimmed by 9-10 cm. If you plant lilies in the same place where they grew before, the soil must be carefully dug up, humus and superphosphate added to it.

CAUTION: Do not add too much nutrients, this may cause untimely rapid growth of lilies.

After planting, do not water the soil. If the weather is rainy, the landing site should be protected from rain with film.

TIP: When planting or transplanting a lily, place a peg next to each bulb so that you can later tie the stem to it. This will protect the flower from breaking in windy weather. In addition, this technique will prevent you from accidentally damaging the bulbs during the spring processing of the flower bed.

Following these simple rules for planting and replanting lilies will help you grow beautiful flowers that will become a real decoration of your site.

Detailed information and advice from experienced gardeners about all methods of propagating lilies can be found on our website: Propagation of lilies.

Caring for lilies in spring and preparing for winter

Care is not inherently difficult. The main thing is not to let them rot, that is, to avoid excess moisture on the bulb.

As for spring, first of all, the bulbs need to be opened in time so that under the warm layer they do not sprout ahead of time. And when they sprout, be sure to feed them with nitrogen fertilizer and loosen them. For example, saltpeter or Nitroammophoska. You can use rotted manure.

Important: fresh manure should not be used under any circumstances. It can burn.

Intermediate feeding is carried out after the emergence of seedlings before the formation of buds. This fertilizing can be done with natural compost fertilizer.

When preparing for wintering for these purposes, the entire above-ground part of the lilies is carefully twisted out. You can’t just cut it so that the cutting remains. The dried trunk turns into a tube through which rain and snow pour directly onto the bulb. The funnel formed from the stem must be tightly covered with earth. If winters in your region are very cold, the plants should be covered with leaves or mulch.

Basic rules of care

Lily is a rather capricious crop and requires regular and proper care. Caring for lilies in the open ground involves standard procedures:

in the first spring season after planting, fertilizers are not required;
if additives were applied before planting, the next feeding should be done only once per season, after flowering has completed. To maintain strength and restore the plant;
before active flowering, it is better to tie especially tall varieties of flowers to a support so that they do not break;
dried and faded buds are removed after flowering;
Moderate watering is required for all varieties of lilies; too much water will lead to rotting of the root system, and a lack of moisture will lead to drying of the leaves and impaired flowering.

Watering is increased in the spring months, when the plant is nourished and restored after a long period of inactivity, and in the period after cutting the buds. During these periods, the plant gains strength or prepares for winter. Stocking up on nutrients.

How to feed lilies for lush flowering in the garden

With proper wintering and timely spring care, nothing other than timely feeding will be required. I'll tell you how and what to feed lilies.

The first important feeding is necessary during the budding period, that is, as soon as you see the tiny buds, it’s time. It is thanks to her that the buds receive sufficient nutrition and grow large and strong. And subsequently large and bright flowers appear from them. Mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil. If you are still new to gardening, I recommend using ready-made mineral fertilizers and diluting them according to the label. If you decide to try diluting the fertilizer yourself, then take a tablespoon of saltpeter or nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is poured onto the plants at the rate of 1 liter per bush.

It is important to remember that a whole liter will only be needed for an adult lush bush. If you have a young plant, then the dose should be reduced by half.

You can use fermented mullein solution. For 10 liters of water - 1 liter of solution. Fertilizer is used in the same way: 1 liter per adult root. Lilies also respond well to feeding with wood ash. However, it is better to carry out such fertilizing not often and in small quantities.

Important: before fertilizing, the plants must be watered and loosened so as not to burn the roots and bulbs.

The frequency of feeding is from 1 to 3 times a month. Of course, if you don’t feed them, they will still bloom and won’t go anywhere, but the quality of such flowering may not please you. Plants are like children, they love care and attention.

Features of cultivation after forcing

There may be several reasons why lilies do not bloom. Scorching sun, insufficient watering, irregular feeding, disease-damaged bulbs for planting. All these problems can be corrected by replanting the plant, increasing watering and applying fertilizers on time.

It should be noted that in the first year, lilies may not bloom at all or form a small number of buds. This is a normal phenomenon, caused by insufficient rooting and development of the bulbs.

Despite the absence of buds, it is necessary to carry out the usual care of lilies: feed them at the end of the growing season, water them on time and loosen the soil. With proper care in the second year, the lily will certainly delight you with beautiful buds.

Beginners in floriculture find the lily a difficult flower to grow. You could see that caring for lilies is no more difficult than caring for other bulbous plants. Select several varieties with different flowering periods, and the beautiful lily will decorate your garden all summer.

Protecting lilies from diseases and pests

Like any garden resident, lilies are exposed to various dangers. In this part I will tell you what the most common diseases are and how to deal with them.

But, as you know, it is easier to prevent than to deal with the consequences, so professionals advise in the spring to water the soil with this solution: mix well 1 liter of warm water, 1 tablespoon of soda, 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, 1 tablespoon of ammonia, and then thin pour in a stream into 9 liters of water. This measure will help prevent diseases.

The most common diseases of lilies are:

Gray rot. This fungal disease begins to manifest itself if microventilation is impaired. Moisture stagnates, the evaporation of which is prevented by the lack of sufficient light and heat, the presence of weeds in the flowerbed, and thickening of plantings. The sore can be recognized by characteristic spots on the base of the stem and leaves, which become covered with mold in damp weather. Serious measures are needed to combat rot. The affected parts of the plant are removed as much as possible, and the bushes are sprayed with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or foundation (approximately 25 grams per 10 liters of water). In autumn, in preparation for wintering, the affected stems are removed and burned, since the pathogen overwinters on the above-ground parts of plants. To prevent reappearance in the spring, it is necessary to treat the plants with copper oxychloride (25 grams per 5 liters) with the addition of shampoo or soap.
Fusarium. This insidious disease eats the victim from the root. As a rule, fungal spores are either in the soil or get there with infected planting material. Externally, the presence of the disease can be determined by yellowed and dried lower leaves. Soil disease can be prevented only by following the norms of watering and fertilizing. But it’s up to the gardener to prevent the fungus from getting from the planting material. All suspicious scales from the bulb are removed before planting. And the bulb itself is soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
Mosaic. Refers to viral diseases. Externally recognized by white spots on the leaves and curvature of the stems and buds. Sick plants must be removed from the site. However, preventative measures will help protect the flowers. The disease is transmitted by sucking insects, so timely control of them will help protect the flowerbed. In addition, the infection can be spread through the sap of an infected plant, which is why the pruning shears are constantly disinfected when pruning.

The most dangerous pests for lilies include:

Red lily beetle. This problem is increasingly spreading with the import of infected planting material. Already in April, it is necessary to carefully examine the plants and take measures to eradicate the problem or take preventive measures. Externally, the lily beetle resembles a fireman's beetle, and preventive measures include its mechanical elimination. If time is lost and larvae appear, then the problem is solved by treating the plants with products against the Colorado potato beetle. For example, an actara, a confidor or a sonnet.
Aphids. The danger of this pest is not only in eating plants, but also in transmitting viral diseases. Treatment can be done with intra-vir (1t per 10 liters of water) or fufanon (15 ml per 10 liters of water).
Mice. These rodents destroy plant bulbs. Traps with bait placed in landing areas are suitable for mice.

Soil composition

The most important property of soil for plants is its fertility. The degree of development of lilies depends on it. Fertile soil consists of the following layers:

The thinnest layer is considered to be the moisturizing layer, densely populated by living organisms.
The humus layer is home to another type of organism that can process organic matter. They transform plant residues into a nutrient medium required for the roots of living plants.
The mineral layer consists of minerals. Few living microorganisms live here.
The parent layer is called rock. Over time, it undergoes natural leaching.

Soil moisture affects the humification of organic matter, which, after decomposition, becomes humus. Since humus is the nutrient medium for lilies and other plants, the degree of soil fertility is determined by its quantity.

Important! As humidity increases, the soil keeps its temperature more stable, it warms up more slowly from the sun and cools down at night.

Propagation of lilies by seeds and scales

Every year new varieties of these beautiful flowers appear. And their prices also skyrocket every year. So what about those who absolutely want a new variety and a bigger one? And it's very simple. You need to purchase just one bulb and try propagation by scales.

As practice has shown, a capricious plant is not at all such when trying to propagate it. To do this, the scales were carefully separated from the bulb and planted in a mixture of peat and vermiculite. Almost every scale formed children, which could already be planted in the ground. Don't be afraid to experiment with this method.

Propagation by seeds is one of the most productive methods. In addition, the seeds do not transfer diseases from the mother plant. Seeds need to be fresh, as over time they lose their viability. To collect them, select a healthy stem, which is cut before the onset of frost. And then left to dry on paper.

The collected material can be planted directly into the ground or into seedlings.

Lily flower - description

Lilies are herbaceous perennials with ovoid or round bulbs without protective coverings with a diameter of 2 to 20 cm. Lily bulbs consist of open, more or less tightly adjacent individual fleshy scales. The stems of lilies are from 30 to 125 cm high and from 3 to 30 mm thick - straight, green or dark purple, sometimes with brown streaks, simple or slightly branched in the upper part - are a continuation of the bottom of the bulb. In some species, bulblets are formed in the axils of the leaves - aerial bulbs, which are also used for reproduction. Lily leaves are linear, lanceolate or oblong-elliptic, alternate or whorled, petiolate or sessile, from 2 to 20 cm long. Single or collected in quantities from 2 to 40 in umbrella-shaped or pyramidal inflorescences, lily flowers are funnel-shaped, bell-shaped, goblet-shaped or turban-shaped perianth, consisting of 6 lobes, colored white, pink, red, orange, yellow, lilac and often covered on the inside with stripes, dots, specks or specks. The fruit of the lily is a three-lobed capsule with flat, irregular triangular brown seeds covered with a filmy or papery skin.

Up to 30 species and many hybrids and varieties of lilies are grown in culture. Lilies are used in gardening and landscape design, in the perfume industry, and some of its species are used as medicinal and food plants.

How to propagate lilies after flowering using cuttings from a bouquet

And the last way to propagate is by cuttings or leaves. This way you can get a new root from your own lilies or from those presented in a bouquet. Although from the latter the probability of rooting of the cuttings is comparatively lower. But why not try? Moreover, there is little trick in this process. So, to obtain planting material you need:

Choose a strong, healthy plant. Or use bouquet as quickly as possible.
Using sharp scissors, cut medium large leaves from the stem.
Plant the leaves in a greenhouse with nutritious soil.
Wait for rooting. As a rule, out of 5 leaves from a bouquet, 1-2 take root, and from a garden plant, 3-4. This depends on the fact that flowers for bouquets are grown using hormones and stimulants, which cannot but affect their reproduction.
The rooted leaf should be planted in an individual greenhouse and wait for the formation of new leaves from the tiny bulb.

Healthy and strong flowers are the pride of a gardener. But this is not the result of a series of accidents, it is the result of rather painstaking work. I hope the tips in the article will help you. Let your flowers delight you and your guests.

Choosing a site for growing lilies

The choice of site depends on the cultivar of the lily. For example, Asian varieties develop well in sunny areas, although they can feel quite comfortable in partial shade. Asiatic lilies are frost-resistant, easy to care for, and grow quickly.

Japanese, Magnificent, Reddish and Calloused lilies are suitable for partial shade. These varieties prefer the upper part of the stem to be in the sun and the lower part to be in the shade, and do not tolerate even the slightest frost. For this reason, lilies of these varieties are often planted with ornamental grasses or low flowerbed flowers as a border. They are common in the southern regions. In the middle zone they are grown in greenhouses.

Tubular types of lilies are unpretentious in care. They are the ones preferred by summer residents. Tubular species practically do not get sick, are not damaged by insects and adapt to any climatic conditions.

If the lily bulbs are from a garden nursery, be sure to consult with specialists about the intricacies of care.

All varieties of lilies have common requirements for growing conditions:

an area with light, nutritious soil;
lilies should not be located in the shade of trees;
the area should be drained, without stagnant moisture;
It is advisable to fence the lilies with a barrier from drafts.

The barrier can be of natural or artificial origin. Artificial barriers include the walls of residential and outbuildings, while natural barriers include garden trees or other tall plants.

LiliaA. V. Otroshko

1.1. Soil composition

Lily species are found in nature under a wide variety of living conditions. Hybrid lilies obtained from these species require conditions close to those in which their ancestors were accustomed to living. Therefore, when growing hybrids on your site, you need to know the properties of the soils on which the original species grew. Knowing these conditions greatly assists the grower in determining what his or her pet needs to thrive.

In rich and fertile soil, some varieties develop and multiply so quickly that the grower has to divide the clump of bulbs too often and transplant the plants to a new location. Of course, on fertile soil there is a greater chance of getting a good result, however, here too the specific characteristics of lilies must be taken into account. Many lilies require fertile soil, but there are exceptions. For example, the Philadelphia lily and its hybrids prefer dry and often very poor forest-type soils, slightly acidic.

Soil types vary from region to region and even within the same area. In this regard, there are no strictly established rules suitable for all plants, and each lily grower must take into account the conditions of a given garden. There are a number of features inherent to the soil type that should be taken into account to achieve good results.

L. fraternal

Clay soils.

Lilies are difficult to grow in soils with too much clay. At the same time, clay is present in any soil mixture and even at low levels can greatly influence the results of work. Soil containing more than 15% clay is difficult to cultivate and is greasy and slippery to the touch. Clay compacts the soil structure and impairs its porosity, which is necessary for the passage of water and air. When clay absorbs water, it retains it through various types of bonds, including adsorption and chemisorption. Even in drought, when it is difficult for the plant to find moisture in sandy soil, there is moisture available to the plant in clay soil.

Moist clay soil in the spring is a dense and viscous medium through which it is difficult for young lily shoots to push through. The sprouts are forced to deviate from the vertical direction, trying to go around the obstacle in search of an exit to the surface. But even having reached the surface of such soil, lilies are delayed in growth, since clay soils are cold in the spring, they do not warm up as quickly under the spring sun as happens with light sandy soils.

The composition and properties of clay soils in the garden can be changed by paying special attention to the soil layer located below 20-30 cm. This lower layer will be conventionally called subsoil; it is reached after excavating the soil to the depth of one shovel bayonet. The thickness of the subsoil layer is the same 20-30 cm, or the second bayonet of a shovel.

Deep subsoil treatment

For gardeners in the non-Black Earth region and many regions of Siberia, the subsoil should be of particular interest. This is exactly the environment in which the feeding subbulb roots work. The completeness and speed of development of lilies largely depends on its composition.

The subsoil is very different in composition from the upper arable layer and therefore deserves separate consideration. The flora and fauna have little impact on the subsoil, it contains little humus, and its structure leaves much to be desired.

Therefore, it is important to cultivate the subsoil layer by deep cultivation, as well as apply a sufficient amount of fertilizer. Deep cultivation is carried out so that the basal bulbous roots can develop to their full potential. The addition of organic matter creates a suitable moisture reserve at this depth. The acidity value of this improved bottom layer should match that of the top layer.

One method for modifying clay soil is as follows. At the beginning of autumn, a large amount of lime is added to a depth of 30 centimeters or more and thoroughly mixed with the subsoil until evenly distributed. At the end of autumn, with the first frosts, the subsoil should be mixed again to aerate and completely mix it with lime.

After the applied lime interacts with the clay, the subsoil is structured and calcium solid aggregates are formed. It is important that these formations remain stable in the presence of water. The formed macrostructure allows water to pass through better and creates drainage under the top layer of soil.

Next spring, it is necessary to dig up this soil with a large amount of partially rotted organic materials: compost, leaves, humus, etc. The addition of organic matter improves the microstructure of the soil, promotes moisture retention, and the addition of nutrients helps lilies to develop quickly. If the soil is kept moist throughout the summer, it will be ready for planting lily bulbs next fall.

Loams

In terms of physical properties, they occupy an intermediate position between heavy clay soils and light sandy soils. Most of the soils in the non-chernozem zone of Russia are loams of one type or another. There are many types of loams, which are divided into heavy, medium and light. They usually contain no more than 15% clay and no more than 20% sand. Loams are considered the most fertile among our soils. The medium type of loam is especially suitable for Asiatic and Trumpet lilies. Heavy loams can be improved in the same way as for clay soils.

Sandy soils

easy to process. In humid weather, water never stagnates in them, which could lead to plant disease. In the spring, such soil warms up early, it can easily be modified with the help of organic materials, and due to the low buffering capacity in such soil, it is not difficult to change the reaction of the environment.

L. "Lilith"

It is easy to dig up to a considerable depth and thereby promote the regrowth of a developed root system. Fusarium on this soil is less common than on heavy soil; the size and quality of the resulting planting material is always satisfactory.