What type does it belong to?
“ Gordey ” is an interspecific hybrid form with a very early ripening period. Nadezhda Rannyaya, Pleven, and Krasny Vostorg have the same ripening period.
The harvest ripens by early August. As a rule, it is used in juices, liqueurs and desserts, in a blend of semi-sweet wines.
When fresh, the berries are not distinguished by anything unusual - the taste is quite simple, grape-like, without a richness of shades .
It is in demand among consumers for its excellent storage, ease of transportation and very beautiful bunches, which can be seen from afar on facades and hedges. Romeo, Chocolate and Taifi are also particularly beautiful.
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Description of the Gordey grape variety
The bush is distinguished by its great growth vigor. Among the strongmen we can also highlight Anthony the Great and Ataman Pavlyuk.
The bunch is very large, the weight can reach one and a half kilograms , it is cone-shaped, moderately loose, does not pea, and does not crumble.
The berries are very large, weighing up to 20 g , oval in shape with a point at the bottom, moon-golden in color.
The pulp is very juicy, tender, with a slight nutmeg flavor.
Dense, strong petioles. The flower is hermaphrodite. This kind of flowers is also found in the Descendant of Rizamat, Helios and Nadezhda Aksai.
The young shoot is soft green, the mature one-year shoot is brownish with red nodules.
The leaves are medium-sized, round, rich green, slightly cut. The vine is powerful, rich brown in color.
Landing Features
To plant this variety, it is better to select a well-lit area with deep groundwater. If they pass close to the surface, the grapes will regularly suffer from rot. The best soil option is sandy soil. If there is only alumina on the site, before planting the vines, it is recommended to dilute it with sawdust or sand, thereby increasing the looseness.
Selection of seedlings
Gordey seedlings can be purchased in early spring or autumn, just before planting. To select a healthy cutting you need to know the following:
- The seedling must have well-developed roots. The more there are, the faster the plant will take root. There should be no defects or damage, since a weakened plant can get sick and even die after planting.
- A healthy trunk is characterized by a covering of brown fibers. If you run your fingernail lightly, a green vine should be visible under the pin. Its dry and dark structure indicates death.
- The buds of a healthy cutting will be elastic, bright and without peeling. Dull and falling off buds also indicate the death of the seedling.
- If a plant is purchased in the fall, it must have leaves.
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It is best to purchase Gordey seedlings in a professional nursery or from a trusted manufacturer. In this case, the plant must be at least one year old.
Advice! This variety is ideal for people with diabetes, since its GI is 9 points less than the standard.
Landing place
The grapevine can grow up to 100 years, this must be taken into account when choosing a planting site. Preference should be given to a flat and well-lit area without a large presence of trees and other plantings. If there is none, then slopes are better than lowlands. The accumulation of water in the soil and high humidity will become excellent conditions for fungal and other diseases.
Depending on the fruit and vegetable crops, grapes prefer less nutritious soil. The main criteria for the soil is its looseness, and nutrients will be added in the form of fertilizers.
Landing technology
Experts recommend planting grape cuttings using the following technology:
- Measure the acidity of the soil. If the soil is acidic, it is recommended to add chalk, dolomite flour or lime.
- Dig a hole along the cutting with dimensions of 60*60*60 cm.
- Treat the roots of the seedling with Kornevin, which will improve their growth and survival rate.
- Organize a drainage layer of crushed stone or pebbles. This is necessary to protect the roots from moisture.
- Prepare a mixture of equal parts soil, compost and sand.
- Fill 2/3 of the hole with the prepared mixture.
- Water with 20 liters of water for shrinkage.
- Place the seedling vertically and cover it with soil.
- Gently press the soil against the trunk and place a stake nearby for tying.
Advice! When organizing a large planting of grapes, it is necessary to plant the bushes in the direction from north to south. This way, mature bushes will receive maximum illumination.
Photo
The Gordey grapes are shown more clearly in the photo below:
History of selection
It was bred by breeder A.V. Burdak in Ukraine .
Currently widespread in the Don region, on the Black Sea coast, also in the southern and central regions of Russia, as it does not withstand severe frosts . Heat-loving varieties include Hadji Murat, Ruta and Cardinal.
Characteristics
At present, it is too early to talk about the final characteristics of Gordeya, since the variety is very young and is being tested .
But according to the preliminary conclusions of gardeners, the data is as follows: the frost resistance of the variety is not the highest - up to -23 degrees Celsius . The productivity is very high.
The shoot matures to its full length.
It resists well gray mold and oidium, leaf rollers, and phylloxera.
It requires timely pruning of the shoots and clearing of leaves from the area around the bunch for better ventilation.
well to additional care - mineral fertilizers and watering.
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages of the Gordey grape variety:
- High level of productivity.
- Maturation of the shoot to its full length.
- High resistance to powdery mildew, gray mold, phylloxera and leaf roller.
- Good response to additional care measures such as mineral fertilizers and watering.
Disadvantages of the variety:
- not too high frost resistance - up to minus 23;
- the need for timely pruning of stepsons, as well as clearing of leaves around the bunch in order to improve ventilation.
Diseases and pests
There is no grape that is not afraid of birds; wasps, unfortunately, also pose a serious danger to Gordey.
It is not difficult to protect the berries from magpies, sparrows and tits - you need to install a reinforced net with medium-sized cells that would block the birds' access to the berries, preventing them from getting tangled in the net.
It's a little more difficult with wasps . They often ignore even poisonous baits carefully placed by the farmer, especially if they have a strong chemical odor.
Don’t think that wasps only damage berries that are cracked or damaged by birds. No, striped predators can spoil whole fruits, and anyway - why on earth should you share them?
Therefore, it is necessary to destroy all wasp nests on the site. The trellises on which the grape bushes will be located must also be neutralized - all the holes must be sealed, because wasps simply love to settle in them.
The most reliable and at the same time humane remedy for striped invaders will be special mesh bags in which the bunches are packed.
Bacterial cancer is a very serious and dangerous disease, and if you ignore it, you can pay the price for the entire vineyard. Unfortunately, at the moment there are no means that effectively counter this scourge.
A bush that has become infected with bacterial cancer is uprooted .
It is known that cracks and wounds are a favorable place for the development of a future tumor , so you need to choose undamaged Gordey grape seedlings and try not to injure the planted bushes again.
The gardeners who chose “Gordeya” made the right choice - these grapes are not afraid of either cold weather or fungi, and even a beginner can care for them.
You just need to be careful and protect the bushes from wasps and birds. The grapes do not have any complex or original taste; on the contrary, they are quite simple, but not primitive, and winemakers will also appreciate them.
Growing grapes: tips for beginners and photos on Supersadovnik.ru
Extreme climate is not a hindrance to sunny berries. And getting a good grape harvest in the second or third year after planting is an entirely achievable goal even for beginners.
So, how to stop dreaming and start growing grapes...
First, let's decide on the two most important tasks when growing grapes - choose the place to plant the grapes and the varieties that we will plant.
In principle, the grapevine will grow almost anywhere (except for continuous shade), and if you take care of it, at the very least it will bear fruit. However, proper planting in the right place will allow you to get really good harvests with much less effort.
Remember that planting a vineyard with seedlings of low-quality varieties will take away your time, energy and good mood. You may be unfairly disappointed in the grapes, although the mistake will be entirely yours.
Place for planting grapes
The place for planting grapes should be sunny and protected from the wind, for example, against the south wall of a house, barn or against a fence facing south, with well-drained soil. If there is a minimum slope on the site, plant grapes on a gentle southern or southwestern slope, orienting the row in the south-north direction.
If the plot is flat and the southern walls are occupied, create a place for your grapes by building a nice solid fence 1.8–2 m high, oriented along the east-west line, in any convenient place on the plot.
And you will immediately understand the secret of the monastery vineyards! You can also use dense hedges or screens made from scrap materials, such as vines or reeds, for this purpose.
Tips for a new winegrower
- The method of planting grapes depends on the type of soil. Options are possible, but usually on sandy soils it is recommended to plant grapes in trenches, and on poorly heated loams and clays and in areas with close groundwater, it is recommended to plant them on ridges, which in the old days were called “tvorila”.
To water and fertilize grapes, I place plastic bottles with the bottom cut off between the seedlings. For table varieties, as the bushes mature, I replace them with cuttings of asbestos-cement pipes, and for “techies” (wine varieties), after three years I remove them altogether. Mature wine grapes must get their own water from the soil, and the deeper its roots, the better the quality of the wine from its berries.
- Don’t rush into planting seedlings “for permanent residence,” especially if these varieties are being tested. Let them live until the first signal brushes in the school (where it is easier to cover). Some northern winegrowers do not plant seedlings in open ground at all in the first year, but keep them there in mobile containers (for example, buckets), half buried in the ground. In the fall, containers with seedlings are moved to the basement and planted in late spring. Such seedlings begin to bear fruit earlier.
- Do not plant vines spontaneously. If your grape bushes are not in “spot” planting, planning a grape plot is necessary. Group varieties by purpose, as they have different planting intervals. The distance between bushes of juice and wine varieties is 0.8 m, table varieties - at least 1.5 m, between rows - 2–2.5 m. It is advisable to check the growth vigor of the selected varieties in order to correctly calculate the right location. Grouping varieties by ripening time and frost resistance will make caring for grapes easier. There will be no need to spray and cover everything to the maximum.
- Do not plant grafted seedlings (from European and southern nurseries) vertically, but place them almost lying down at the maximum possible angle, otherwise there will be problems with the ripening of the vine. Gradually transfer them to your own roots.
- Don't forget that grapes have the property of vertical polarity. When opening, tie the fruiting shoot to a trellis or stakes only horizontally - then all annual green shoots will grow equally. With a vertical garter, shoots grow intensively only from the upper eyes, and from the lower ones they grow weakly or not at all.
- Limit watering. It is only necessary to water young vines for the first 2 years and water-recharging watering in the fall, common to all varieties. Stop watering 7–10 days before the expected flowering, as excess moisture causes color shedding and delays the ripening of the crop.
- Do not use sprinkling, otherwise you will provoke diseases. Arrange drainage channels and place irrigation pipes on the side of the row no closer than 30–50 cm to the base of the bush. Grapes do not like wet leaves and wet soil. If possible, arrange a canopy over the grape bushes.
- Carry out green operations sparingly and on time. The simultaneous removal of all growth points on the shoot is unacceptable: both chasing the top and pinching the stepsons. After all, there is a danger that the wintering buds of the bush will begin to grow and its potential will sharply weaken. Do not break out the stepsons completely, leave 1-2 sheets. Carry out the chasing in August, immediately after straightening the crown.
- Pruning is necessary for grapes, otherwise the berries will be crushed and the bush will grow excessively. But in the year of planting, there is no pruning, except for the removal of immature green parts of the shoots in the fall. From the 3rd year, prune the shoots according to the recommendations (short or long pruning), but do not mindlessly follow the recommended total load, as your conditions - relief, soil, sum of active temperatures (SAT) - will correct it. Write down starting from which bud the fruiting shoots grow in your particular area. Read more: Pruning grapes for beginners >>> .
- Do not carry out autumn pruning before natural leaf fall or the establishment of negative night temperatures (early November). Do not prune in the spring, as the “crying” of the vine (expiration of sap) weakens the plant. Read more: How to stop the weeping vine >>>>.
- In the north, it is more reliable to use standard-free fan or semi-fan type formations, rather than high-standard ones, including for gazebos.
Read more: Cordon formation and pruning of grapes >>>.
Read more: Forming grapes for growing on a gazebo >>>>.
- All seedlings need winter shelter for the first 2–3 years. The first year the grapes grow tied to a temporary trellis. In the fall, shoots are removed and covered with two or three layers of air-dry shelter. As bedding - spruce branches or boards, on top of the seedlings - a layer of spunbond or corrugated cardboard and on top of a film (roofing felt, old linoleum). The rest will be completed by snow. Leave gaps at the ends of the shelter for ventilation.
- Do not remove the cover immediately and completely in the spring. And when you remove it, leave a couple of layers of spunbond or lutrasil nearby in case of frost.
- Record the timing and characteristics of planting, flowering, ripening, pruning and loading of grapes in a diary. Otherwise, the most valuable information for variety testing analysis will be forgotten and lost. And both you and the next generation of northern winegrowers, which will definitely come after you, need it so much.
Winter-hardy grape varieties
The most necessary requirements for grape varieties in the Moscow region and to the north are frost resistance, ripening time of the crop and vines. But you shouldn’t put the so-called “lack of concealment” at the forefront. This concept is relative and does not depend on the variety, but on what the minimum temperatures are in winter at your dacha.
At the first stage, choose the earliest frost-resistant varieties. Later, with experience, we will understand that northern viticulture also provides us with certain bonuses, for example, in the form of long daylight hours, which partially compensates for the missing heat of the grapes.
And then you can try growing later varieties.
In addition, in the north there are practically no diseases or pests of grapes. However, it is always better to prevent danger. There are so-called complex-resistant grape varieties - with high resistance to both frost and disease.
Read more about grape diseases and how to treat them >>>. Also determine the purpose of the grapes. Why do you need it: for the table, for juice and wine, for decorating a gazebo, or just “to have it”? Today there are more than 15,000 grape varieties, so there is plenty to choose from.
For beginners, I would recommend the tasty and unpretentious table varieties 'Agat Donskoy', 'Aleshenkin', 'Yubileiny Novgorod', the universal 'Platovsky', 'Crystal', the ultra-early table variety 'Krasa Nikopol', as well as some universal Amur hybrids A.I. Potapenko and F.I. Shatilova.
Those who have children should pay attention to the super-early and delicately sweet varieties 'Liepaja Yantar' and 'Early Ciravski' (selections by G.E. Vesmiņš), as well as the 'Beauty of the North' variety with a high content of beneficial folic acid.
From the listed grape varieties, select no more than four or five for the first planting.
How to buy grape seedlings and cuttings for rooting
The most reliable sources of planting material are clubs and forums of winegrowers, where passionate and experienced gardeners and collectors communicate, as well as MOIP and TSHA. You should not buy seedlings and cuttings at spontaneous roadside markets and at exhibitions (of course, this does not apply to the stands of famous nurseries).
How to buy grapes and choose a good seedling.
the author of the article, winegrower Olena Nepomnyashchaya, can be found here >>>.
You can learn about how to grow other plants and what gardening work needs to be planned from other articles on our website. Please also pay attention to the information block to the left of the text. The links in it lead to articles on related topics.
Illustrations for the material: LLC Publishing House Gastronom
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