When and how to plant blackberries correctly: planting blackberries in spring and autumn, growing tips, the best varieties of blackberries. Blackberry care: pruning, watering, fertilizing, bush formation, garter, diseases and

From a botanical point of view, blackberries differ from raspberries in the structure of the fruit: if you pick a blackberry, the white fruit will remain inside. Blackberries are a close relative of raspberries, with special taste and unique healing properties. Black berries contain a large number of biologically active substances that improve the functioning of capillaries and promote hematopoiesis: flavonoids from the vitamin P group, ascorbic acid, microelements (magnesium, iron, calcium).

Blackberry leaves and fruits are used to treat skin diseases, allergies, and disorders of the gastrointestinal tract.

The potential yield of the crop is higher than that of raspberries due to the large size of the berries and the abundance of multiple fruit ovaries. The yield of one bush can exceed 15 kg.

The deep root system of blackberries is capable of extracting moisture and nutrition from the lower layers of the soil, so it is less demanding on watering and fertilizing than raspberries.

When is it better to plant blackberries - in spring or autumn: tips and recommendations for choosing seedlings

The delicious blackberry comes from America. In central Russia, blackberries are not grown as often as raspberries. Although these are related cultures. Blackberries are less frost-resistant than raspberries. Therefore, gardeners often do not risk planting it on their plots. Blackberry bushes can be found in the wild. Many people like the taste of blackberries, but in addition to their taste, the berry is very healthy. Therefore, its popularity as a garden crop is growing.

Important: Blackberries can be planted in spring and autumn, it all depends on the region. Spring planting is suitable for the northern and central regions of Russia, autumn planting is suitable for the southern regions, but it can also be planted in spring.

Spring planting of blackberries occurs at the end of April - beginning of May, when the soil is completely warmed up and there is no threat of frost.

In order for blackberries to please you with a good harvest, one of the important conditions is the correct choice of seedlings.

How to choose seedlings:

When buying seedlings, pay attention to the root system: it should be well developed. It is necessary to have 2-3 roots with a length of 10 cm.
The roots should be moist or with a lump of earth.
A bud should be formed on the roots.
If the bark is wrinkled, this means that the seedling was dug up a long time ago and may not take root well.
The seedling should have 1-2 stems.
To check the suitability of a seedling for sure, cut off a piece of bark. If the tissue is juicy and green - everything is in order, if it is brown - the seedling is of poor quality.

How to choose blackberry seedlings

Ways to propagate blackberries

Like other berry bushes, blackberries can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and seedlings. All these methods are suitable for growing both erect and creeping (creeping) varieties of blackberries.

Propagation by seeds

This method of plant propagation was invented by nature itself. In the case of blackberries, it is good because the main characteristics of the parent bush will be preserved in the seedling. In addition, this method is the most economical.

You can not only prepare blackberry seeds yourself, but also purchase them in the store.

The natural germination rate of blackberry seeds is not very high; it is increased by scarification or stratification of the seeds.

Scarification is a partial violation of the integrity of the hard shell of seeds; it is used to facilitate their swelling and germination and to increase the percentage of germination. Stratification is another way to prepare seeds for germination: layering them with a moist substrate and storing them under certain temperature conditions.

At home, seed stratification is the most acceptable. It is carried out as follows:

The seeds are soaked in water for 2–3 days. It is better to use rain or melt water.
Then the seeds are planted in trays with peat, sand or light soil and kept for 2 months at a temperature of about +2 °C. The substrate is kept fairly moist by watering regularly (initially you should mix 4 volumes of substrate with 1 volume of water and 1 volume of seeds).
After the end of the aging period, the containers are transferred to a room at room temperature (about +20 °C).
Planting in open ground occurs when the seedlings have 3–4 leaves. Plant in rows with a distance between seedlings of about 10 cm.
For the winter, seedlings are covered with leaves and branches.
In the spring, they are dug up along with a lump of earth and transplanted to a permanent place.

The first harvest from seed seedlings can be expected in the 3rd or 4th year.

Video: blackberry seedlings

Planting with root cuttings

Blackberries can be planted using root cuttings. It is allowed to carry out both autumn and spring harvesting:

A healthy bush is outlined (it must be at least 3 years old).
A thick rhizome (about 1 cm in diameter) is separated from the parent plant.
Cut it into cuttings of 10–15 cm each.
Cuttings collected in the fall are stored in moistened sand in a cool room until spring.

Root cuttings can be harvested in both autumn and spring

Cuttings are planted in early spring:

The cuttings are placed in furrows 10 cm wide and 5–8 cm deep.
Sprinkle with earth and water.

In the future, plantings require weeding, loosening and watering as necessary. After the shoots appear on the rooted cuttings, they are transplanted into furrows with a depth and width of about 25 cm.

A nutrient mixture is placed at the bottom of the furrow - half a bucket of humus mixed with soil, potash fertilizers (50 g) and superphosphate (100 g).
A layer of fertile soil is made on top.
Place the cuttings at a distance of half a meter from each other. The growth bud is buried approximately 2 cm into the ground.
The cuttings are covered with fertile soil and then with a nutrient mixture.

Harvesting and planting green cuttings

Planting green cuttings harvested from the upper third of the shoot (without the top) is carried out according to the same scheme as planting root cuttings. Only the initial planting should be carried out not in furrows, but in holes about 15 cm wide and deep. You can also plant the cuttings in cups with soil that is a mixture of sand, peat and perlite in equal parts. These cups can be left in the greenhouse - the humidity and temperature there will be suitable.

Green blackberry cuttings can be planted in holes or cups with specially prepared soil

The appearance of roots on green cuttings should be expected in a month. After this, the future bush can be relocated “to a permanent place of residence.”

Experienced gardeners warn beginners against propagating thornless blackberries by cuttings: with this method, the plant may grow thorns.

Planting seedlings

This is the easiest way to plant a plant. This planting can be done both in spring and autumn, following the following sequence of actions:

The seedling is removed from the pot along with the earthen lump.
Prepare a pit measuring 40x40x40 cm (the distance between the pits is about 2–3 m, the distance from the fence is about 1 m).
The bottom of the pit is filled with a mixture of 5–6 kg of compost, 50 g of potassium sulfate and 100 g of superphosphate.
Sprinkle the mixture with fertile soil on top.
The seedling is lowered to the bottom of the hole, the roots of the plant are straightened (or simply an earthen lump of the seedling is placed in the center of the hole).
Make sure that the growth bud of the seedling is buried no more than 2–3 cm.
Backfilling is done with unfertilized soil so that the roots do not get burned when they come into contact with fertilizers.
Sprinkle the enriched mixture on top.
Compact the soil.
Water thoroughly.
When planting in spring, the hole is mulched with sawdust or straw.
Trim the seedling to a height of 20–30 cm.

I plant blackberries (like other plants) in nutrient trenches (trenches are more technologically advanced than pits).
Their size is 0.6–0.7 meters deep, 0.3 meters wide. I fill it 2/3 full with sprinkles, sprinkle hydrogel on top (optional if you don’t have one) and then black soil. The last one is where I land. Blackberries require a grape-type trellis. The distance between the bushes (depending on their height) is 2–2.5 meters. This winter, all the new blackberry gardens froze and the “old ones” froze. That is, shelter is mandatory - and in the first year it must be carried out with special care. Row orientation: north-south. The trellis is convenient to install immediately when performing excavation work. bond599
https://www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/archive/index.php/t-11996-p-3.html

Video: planting a blackberry seedling

Less common methods of reproduction

In addition to propagation by seeds, cuttings and seedlings, blackberries can be planted in other ways:

planting root suckers: used only for propagating erect blackberries, which produce many suckers. They are taken in May-June (the height of the stem must be at least 10 cm, the thickness of the stem at the base is 7–8 mm, the length of the roots is up to 20 cm) and planted together with a ball of earth according to the seedling planting scheme (no pruning is carried out);
dividing the bush: the main method of propagation of blackberries, which do not produce offspring. With this method, the blackberry bush is divided so that each individual part contains several strong, healthy shoots with a developed root system. The resulting parts are planted according to the principle of planting seedlings (no pruning is carried out);
propagation by tissue culture: used to create elite berry varieties by placing several cells from the top of a blackberry bush on the soil, which begin to divide and give birth to a new plant. This method is used only in specialized institutes.

Choosing a place for planting blackberries, preparing and fertilizing the soil, good predecessors of blackberries

Blackberries will grow and bear fruit well in sunny areas. You should not plant bushes in the shade, they will take root there, but the yields will be weak.

The place should not be exposed to wind, as gusts of wind can damage the delicate plant. In addition to injuring leaves and berries, wind can cause damage during the pollination period of flowers. The most suitable place for blackberries is the southern and western areas.

Blackberries are undemanding to soil, but do not like carbonate soils. In such soil, the plant will not receive enough substances such as magnesium and iron, which is why it may develop chlorosis. Soils such as loams, sandstones, and black soil are ideal for planting blackberries.

good predecessors for blackberries:

Legumes
Vegetables
Field
Green manure

Bad predecessors : berries and nightshade crops.

Important: If you regularly fertilize the soil on your site, no additional action is required before planting blackberries. Excessive fertilization can cause blackberries to grow green, which will be detrimental to the berries. In autumn, the area allocated for blackberries is treated for diseases and cleared of weeds and pests.

If the soil was planted with bad predecessors, the top layer of soil when digging holes for planting blackberries is mixed with the following fertilizers:

Organic - 10 kg;
Phosphates - 15 g;
Potash fertilizers - 25 gr.

The amount of fertilizer is indicated per 1 m² of land. Then the roots of the seedlings are sprinkled with this layer of soil with fertilizers.

Growing blackberries

Preparing a place for planting a seedling: where is it better to plant, in the sun or in the shade?

To grow blackberries, you need to choose a place well lit by the sun and protected from northern winds . In the shade, the young shoots of the plant will grow poorly, become elongated, the fruits become smaller and lose their taste.

A good option is to plant along the fence, where the bushes will be protected from the winds and the stems from breakage. In this case, you need to retreat 1 m from the fence so that the plant is not heavily shaded. It is better to place the bush on the south or southwest side of the site.

To plant blackberries, you need breathable and well-drained soil. with a humus layer of at least 25 cm are ideal

To plant blackberries, choose well-lit places, loamy, well-drained soils.

The occurrence of groundwater in the area should not be higher than 1.5 meters. If these indicators are violated, the roots of the plant will be damp and cold, which significantly affects winter hardiness and yield indicators.

To plant thorny shrubs, the planting area must be prepared in advance. All weeds are removed, plant waste is destroyed, and preventive spraying is carried out against pathogens and pests.

Salty, rocky, sandy and swampy areas are not suitable for growing blackberries .

Severely depleted soils need to be replenished with essential macroelements. To do this, the area is dug up to a depth of 30-35 cm, and organic and mineral fertilizers are applied.

How to plant blackberries correctly and at what distance?

Blackberries are planted near a supporting structure. Before planting, a blackberry tree pattern is outlined. Wooden or metal poles are driven in. If the variety is upright, the support is placed on the side of the bush. For creeping varieties, the supporting structure is a trellis about 2 m high.

Planting a seedling is done as follows:

Make holes or furrows for the seedlings. The seedling should be buried 7-8 cm into the ground.
A prerequisite is the location of the bud underground at a level of 2-3 cm. Therefore, adjust the depth of the hole yourself, based on the above two rules.
Place the seedling in the hole, straighten the root system, and cover it with a layer of soil with fertilizers.
The soil is not covered at surface level; a small depression of a few centimeters is left.
The soil should be compacted and watered with up to 6 liters of water per seedling.
After the water has been absorbed, the holes are mulched with organic matter or straw.

Scheme for pruning blackberry seedlings when planting

Planting blackberries

Important: When planting a blackberry seedling, the shoots are cut so that the shoot is 20 cm above the surface. Fruiting branches are removed.

The yield of blackberries largely depends on the density of planting of seedlings. The seedling must have sufficient feeding area, since seedlings grow quickly and, despite pruning, can interfere with each other.

For each variety, different distances between plants should be maintained:

For upright growing varieties - 1.5-2.5 m;
For creeping ones - at least 2.5 m, preferably up to 3 m.

For large blackberry plantations with a limited area, gardeners maintain a distance of 1 m, between rows - 2 m. Maintaining such a plantation requires increased care: fertilizing should be carried out more often than in nurseries with a large distance, drip irrigation should be organized.

How to plant in open ground

Planting pits and substrate are prepared 15-20 days before planting seedlings in open ground.

The blackberry root system is more powerful and penetrates deeper than that of other berry crops. Therefore, the pits need to be made more voluminous. The best option is to stick to the parameters 40x40x40 cm .

Upright varieties of shrubs are placed at a distance of 1 m, creeping plants at 1.5 m. 2 m are left between rows.

Organic matter and minerals must be added to each hole:

compost or humus 5 kg;
superphosphate 120 g;
potassium sulfate 40 g.

The nutrient components are mixed with fertile soil and the resulting substrate is filled into the hole 2/3 of the volume.

The shrub is planted vertically with a root collar depth of 1.5-2 cm . In light sandy loam soils, deepen up to 3 cm.

Blackberries are planted vertically with a root collar depth of 1.5-3 cm, covered with substrate and watered

Blackberry roots are placed in a hole, straightened and covered with substrate. In this case, the hole is not completely filled, leaving a distance of 1-2 cm to the soil level.

Thus, under each bush there will be a recess , which will contribute to the rational hydration of the blackberries.

Then the surface of the substrate needs to be compacted and the seedling watered with 5-6 liters of water . After planting blackberries in spring, the plant must be provided with regular watering for 40-50 days. After compacting the soil, the tree trunk circle is mulched with sawdust, peat or straw.

Mulching the soil surface under the bush with peat or rotted manure with a layer of 15 cm will protect against weeds and prevent the appearance of dense crusts. Additionally, it is a source of balanced supply of nutrients to blackberry roots.

Planting blackberries:

Method of growing blackberries on a trellis: how to make a trellis with your own hands?

A device such as a trellis must be installed for creeping varieties. Trellis are supports in the form of pillars with rows of wires stretched horizontally.

Using a trellis greatly simplifies plant care and promotes proper development.

Benefits of using a trellis:

Easy to form a bush;
Easy to care for, remove dried branches;
The berries do not get dirty in the ground;
Convenient to apply fertilizers;
Blackberries take up minimal space.
The berries receive enough sun, light and air.
Harvesting is faster and more convenient.

There are single-strip and double-strip trellises. Single-lane ones are often used by amateur gardeners, and two-lane ones are used on large plantations.

In turn, single-strip trellises have various designs:

Fan;
Vertical flat;
Horizontal;
Free;
Inclined.

Types of trellises for blackberries
Two-strip trellises also have different designs and appearance:

T-shaped;
V-shaped;
Y-shaped.

T-shaped trellis
You can make trellises yourself , for this you will need the following materials:

Wooden or metal supports about 2 m high.
Strong wire.

How to install:

First you need to dig holes on opposite sides of the blackberry tree to install the posts. Sufficient depth is about 60 cm.
If you plan to have a long blackberry bush, you should install several supports at a distance of about 5 m.
A layer of broken brick should be poured into the bottom of each hole to prevent the pillars from sagging in the future.
Install the supports and cover them tightly with soil.
Stretch three rows of wire. The distance between the rows of wire should be approximately 60 cm. The wire should be pulled tightly so that it does not sag.
When the blackberry begins to grow, it will have to be tied to a wire.

The best varieties

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, it has become possible to grow many blackberry varieties in the garden. There are varieties with raised, recumbent, creeping shoots, there are options with and without thorns on the stems.

The most popular varieties for growing in Russia:

Thornfree;
Agawam;
Agate;
Black Satin.

Blackberry Thornfree:

Blackberry Agawam:

Blackberry Agate:

Blackberry Black Satin:

Blackberry varieties: which one to choose?

Blackberries got their name from the word “hedgehog” because of their thorns. Breeders have developed new varieties of blackberries without thorns, which give a good harvest and are frost-resistant.

Important: Knowing the characteristics of the variety, you can easily choose the one suitable for the climatic conditions of your region.

Popular blackberry varieties:

Chester . Withstands frosts down to –26°C. Semi-cresting shrub, needs to be tied to a trellis. The berries are dense, which allows them to be stored and transported for a relatively long time. The variety has high productivity. The taste of the berries is sweet and sour, the size is medium and large berries weighing about 5-7 grams.
Apache - the variety does not tolerate frost well and needs shelter. Does not like drought, requires drip irrigation. The berries are very large (one berry weighs about 10 grams), black with a glossy sheen. The berries do not wrinkle and retain their appearance for a long time. The berries do not spoil if they are not picked from the bush for a long time.
Karaka Black . Resistance to frost, pests, and diseases is average. The variety is distinguished by large, long berries. This variety is the successful result of crossing blackberries with raspberries. The leaves of this variety may turn yellow, but this is not a sign of disease.
Ruben . A variety with vertical bushes that do not require support. The variety is frost-resistant, fruiting continues until autumn frosts.
Black Satin . Variety without thorns. It is distinguished by powerful and strong bushes that reach a height of 2-3 human heights. It is recommended to pick the berries of this variety immediately after ripening, within 3 days, as they quickly crumble.
Thornfree . An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety. The bush can grow up to 30 years. The berries are delicious, dessert. There are no thorns.

Blackberry varieties: Black Satin

Blackberry varieties: Karaka Black

Blackberry varieties: Ruben

Blackberry varieties: Thornfree

What kind of blackberries do you most often prefer to plant?

In fact, there are a sufficient number of varieties of this berry, and our nursery presents the most popular of them. But it is worth noting that most often when mentioning blackberries, experts use words such as “bramberry” and “dewberry”. In fact, these are varieties of this crop and they differ in appearance and size of the berries:

bramble has an erect shoot;
The dewberry has creeping vines and vines.

Do not confuse dewberry with lush thickets of intertwined wild blackberries. The dewberry climbs in a cultivated manner, its vines wrap around the trellises, also giving the area a decorative appearance.

As for other differences between these varieties, they are as follows:

yield - dewberry yields 20 kg per bush, bramble yields one kg per shoot;
berry weight – 12 grams of dewberry, 4 grams of bramble;
winter hardiness is weak in the first, good in the second.

Caring for blackberries in the first year of planting: watering, fertilizing, do you need to pinch blackberries?

Important: After planting, blackberries do not bear fruit or bloom in the first year.

The soil around the blackberries is loosened and weeds are removed. The soil should not be loosened deeply. Blackberries love moderate watering. During drought, the bushes should be watered once a week. Watering is also required during flowering and when the berries ripen. However, you should not be zealous; excess moisture can destroy the bush. Blackberries should not be watered with cold water. Water that has stood in the sun or rain is suitable for irrigation. Place a barrel on your property to always have a supply of rainwater

the necessary fertilizers were added to the soil before planting , there is no need to additionally fertilize the soil for 2 years. In the third year, the following fertilizers are applied:

In the fall, organic matter is added; if you use manure for mulching, there is no need to add phosphates. If you do not use organic matter, in the 3rd year add 50 grams of phosphates per 1 m².
In the spring, during the growing season, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied - urea or ammonium nitrate, 20 g per 1 m².
In summer - complex fertilizers. Blackberries also need potassium fertilizers without chlorine.

Straight-growing blackberries need pinching or pinching:

If the main shoot grows to 1-1.2 m, cut off 10 cm of the top.
If the side shoots reach a length of 50 cm, they are also slightly shortened.

This makes it possible to form a beautiful bush without reducing productivity.

How to water and feed blackberries

Fertilizer and fertilizing are the key to a good harvest

Every spring, blackberries need fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, which will stimulate the growth of annual shoots - this is another golden rule. To do this, apply 50 g of ammonium nitrate under each bush, covering it to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Every 3-4 years, shrubs in the garden need to be fed with other macroelements. This procedure is carried out after harvesting. Per 1 m2 the following is added to the soil under the plant:

compost or humus 10 kg;
superphosphate 100 g;
potassium sulfate 30 g.

Blackberries need fertilizing with ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, humus.
It should be remembered that nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in the spring . This mineral is also found in large quantities in pig manure and chicken droppings.

Activities for fertilizing blackberries can be combined by spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture , which will suppress the development of microorganisms. For additional disease prevention, the area under the bushes should be cleared of fallen leaves.

How to properly tie blackberries to a trellis: formation of a bush, garter diagram

Creeping varieties must be tied to a trellis as the branches grow.

There are different ways to garter blackberries:

Fan
Weave
One-way tilt

With the fan method, the regrown shoots are separated and tied to a wire. Young branches are tied to the lower tiers of wire.

In the weaving , blackberry branches are intertwined between three tiers of wire. Those shoots that grew after formation lead in different directions from the center of the trunk.

With a one-sided tilt, the shoots are directed to the 2 lower rows of wire. After regrowth, the shoots are brought to the top row of wire. Shoots are placed on the right and left.

Scheme for gartering blackberries in different ways

Important: Dried and weak shoots are removed.

Description of the plant and photo

Garden blackberry is a shrub-type plant. Its peculiarity is its strong perennial rhizome and flexible stems, which are studded with sharp thorns.

Important! Now on sale you can find special blackberry varieties bred by breeders that do not have thorns on the shoots. These blackberries are characterized by stable yields and a stronger immune system.

If you provide blackberries with support, their shoots can rise to a height of up to two meters. The leaf blades of the crop are trifoliate or five-seven-parted, painted in a light green shade. They have characteristic teeth and edges on both sides.

Blooming blackberries are excellent honey plants. Its white flowers, which reach an average diameter of 3-5 cm, open depending on the variety and weather conditions from June to August and attract bees. The bush begins to bear fruit around August. The fruits of blackberries are juicy, colored black or dark blue, and have a light bluish coating.

Photo of the plant:

Features of blackberry pruning: timing

Important: blackberries are pruned almost all year round: in spring, summer and autumn. If you decide to grow blackberries, be sure to get a good pruning shears.

In spring, pruning is carried out until buds form. Remove all frozen shoots and broken parts of shoots. Young bushes need pruning in May and July. In May, the tops are cut off by 5 cm; in July, the lateral shoots, which have grown to 50 cm, are reduced by 5-7 cm. In addition, no more than 6 of the strongest lateral shoots are left, and other, weaker shoots are cut off.

In adult bushes, in addition to broken branches, all weak ones are removed. No more than 10 of the strongest shoots should remain on the bush. The side branches are shortened by 20 cm.

In summer, all new root shoots are cut off, leaving only spring shoots.

In the fall, the branches are pruned, leaving a height of about 2 m. Also in the fall, all weak branches are cut off. All shoots of the second year are cut off after they bear fruit; there will be no more berries on them, so the plant should not waste energy feeding them.

Planting scheme

According to step-by-step instructions:

5 kilograms of humus, superphosphate and potassium salt are added to the planting holes;
Having mixed the nutrient mixture with the soil, fill the holes 2 thirds;
the seedling is held vertically, with the roots straightened;
add soil, lightly compacting it;
deepen the root neck no more than 2 centimeters.

It is better to plant a plant together. After planting, there should be a notch around the shoot. It will be used to water and fertilize crops at the dacha. If the seedlings were prepared independently, at home, then they are placed in a permanent place under a film for adaptation. After all, the transition to open ground will be painful for them.

Blackberry diseases and pests: description with photographs and control measures

Blackberries and raspberries have common diseases and pests. Let's look at them.

Blackberry diseases

Anthracnose . A fungal disease that affects shoots, leaves, and berries. The lesion can be identified by the presence of gray round spots. When affected by anthracnose, the berries develop one-sidedly and dry out. The cause of the disease is severe thickening of plants in conditions of high humidity.
Gray rot . The development of the disease is favored by wet, rainy weather. When blackberries are affected by gray rot, their inflorescences and berries rot and the shoots die. In winter, cracks with black fungal deposits are visible on the affected stems.
Rust . The disease can be recognized by the characteristic color of the leaves. Their inner side is covered with orange pustules, the outer side of the leaf is faintly colored. The affected shoots do not bloom, do not bear fruit, and the plant gradually dies out.
Chlorosis . All parts of the plant turn yellow, the fruits become small and not at all tasty. The plant loses its frost resistance.
Powdery mildew . The disease develops in the first half of summer, affecting young parts of the plant. A white or grayish coating may be observed on the affected areas. The shoots grow weakly, the berries become smaller.

Blackberry diseases: anthracnose

Blackberry diseases: gray rot

Blackberry diseases: rust
Blackberry pests

Raspberry beetle . The beetle is gray-black, covered with hairs. It overwinters in the soil, and in the spring it moves to raspberry and blackberry flowers. Eats both leaves and flowers, berries. The female lays eggs in flowers and on the ovary; the hatched larvae eat the ovary.
Raspberry stem fly . The age of flies coincides with the growth of young shoots. Females lay eggs on young shoots, and the hatched larvae gnaw off the shoots. Eating shoots by larvae leads to drying out and death of part of the plant.
Blackberry mite . It cannot be seen with the naked eye. Mites overwinter in blackberry buds. In the spring they move to shoots, and then to flowers and berries. Because of the mite, the berries do not ripen as expected and lose their taste and appearance. Sometimes the mite can destroy up to 50% of the crop.
May Khrushchi . They eat leaves. In winter, they go underground and gnaw the root system of the plant.
Raspberry gall midge . Another small pest that becomes active during the flowering period of blackberries. Infection with gall midges inhibits plant growth.

Defeat by raspberry gall midge

Raspberry beetle

May Khrushchev
To protect your blackberries from pests and diseases, you should spray the plants in the spring before the buds open and in the fall after picking the blackberries. drugs are suitable :

Aktellik
Karbofos
Fitoverm
Akarin

You should also carefully loosen the soil, fight weeds, thin out blackberries, and dispose of dried shoots.

When to plant blackberries

in autumn

In the conditions of the Moscow region and Leningrad region, the middle zone and southern regions, planting in the fall is preferable. When planting in spring, rooting is not so active: warming comes too quickly, active sap flow begins, shoots grow, and the still weak root system is not able to provide sufficient nutrition.

In autumn, plant bushes 20-30 days before frost. Subsequent cool temperatures and high humidity promote rooting. In spring the plant will begin to develop properly.

in spring

Plant varieties with poor winter hardiness in the spring, in April-May. In the northern regions (Ural, Siberia) also start planting in spring. Do this until the buds open and the air temperature does not exceed 15 °C.

Choose quality seedlings. Annual shoots with two stems, the diameter of which should be at least 0.5 cm, take root best. The optimal length of the tap root is considered to be 10 cm. The roots must have living buds of growth.

Note: in autumn there is a wider selection of seedlings and their prices are lower than in spring.

Rules for planting blackberries in autumn

In autumn, blackberries can be planted in southern regions with warm winters. Young seedlings may not survive a harsh frosty winter. When planting blackberries in the fall, humus is added to the hole.

If in winter the snow cover is about 60-70 cm, then there is no need to cover the young seedlings. Snow cover of this height is enough to cover the plant. If there is no snow, it is better to cover the seedlings with agrofibre or other covering material. It is necessary to make a shelter during the last cold snap, before the onset of frost, so that the plant does not produce horizontal layering.

Important: You need to complete the autumn planting of blackberries before mid-October, if the weather is good. Autumn planting of blackberries begins in September.

If fall-planted blackberries overwinter well, you may be able to get your first harvest sooner than spring-planted blackberries.

Blackberry shelter for the winter

Build a shelter before the first cold weather sets in (before the air temperature drops to -1 °C), since the most dangerous time for the plant is the snowless beginning of winter. Do not cover fruit trees with fallen leaves; they can hide microorganisms that become active with the onset of spring.

Bend the stems to the ground, collect them in bunches, and secure with staples. Gardeners recommend tying weights to the tops of the shoots at the end of the growing season - under their weight the shoots themselves will bend to the ground. As a covering material, you can use spruce branches, hay, sawdust, peat, humus, roofing felt and even polyethylene (the stems do not ripple).

How to cover blackberries for the winter, watch the video:

The video will tell you how to cover young blackberry seedlings from cuttings for the winter:

Caring for blackberries in the fall, preparing for winter

In the fall, you should clear the blackberries of dry shoots and dig up the soil between the rows. Before frost, you should water your blackberries well.

The most important thing in preparing for winter is to cover the plants. Mature blackberry plants tolerate frost with difficulty. Although many varieties of blackberries are frost-resistant, they are covered for the winter. To do this, blackberry bushes are tied with twine and tilted to the ground.

To avoid breaking the branches, the plant is thrown over the knee. Then the blackberries are covered with one or two layers of agrofibre. Secure the covering material with bricks or other heavy objects. They also make a flooring of pine branches on top.

Dangerous insect pests and diseases

Blackberries and raspberries share common pests and diseases. So keep this in mind when planting these berry bushes nearby.

Diseases

Blackberries are most vulnerable to the following types of diseases:

rust;
powdery mildew;
anthractosis;
septoria;
purple spot;
gray rot;
improper care;
deficiency of microelements in the soil.

In order to prevent the occurrence of these diseases, be sure to follow all the rules of agricultural technology, apply fertilizing on time, and do not forget about watering and loosening.

Attention! If some kind of disease has developed, then treat the bushes with Bordeaux mixture (1%), sulfur preparations and other antifungal agents.

Pests

Among the pests dangerous to blackberries are:

mites (spider mites, hair mites);
bud moth;
weevil;
gallworm;
gall midge;
fire;
raspberry glassware.

You can fight these insects by spraying the bushes with actellik or karbofos. Treatment with Fitover or Akarin also works well.

When and in what year do blackberries begin to bear fruit?

In the first year of life, blackberries do not bear fruit; buds are formed during this period. In the second year, blackberries begin to bloom and bear fruit. The shoots that bear fruit will no longer produce berries; they die. Therefore, you should get rid of them. At the same time, replacement shoots grow, from which a bush is formed. The owner himself plans and shapes the development of the blackberry bush.

There is also a remontant blackberry, which bears fruit in the first year after planting. In the fall, all shoots are cut off, and in the spring new ones grow.

Blackberries bloom in June and ripen in mid-summer to late summer. But there are also early varieties that produce crops as early as June. Gardeners are not very fond of these varieties, as they are susceptible to frost. Frosts during flowering destroy the crop. Late blackberry varieties can be enjoyed in September.

How to trim blackberries

It is necessary to prune blackberries to obtain maximum yields and large berries. In addition, pruning maintains the compact shape of the bush, making it easier to pick berries, and prevents depletion of the bush.
The shrub has a two-year development cycle: in the first year, the stems develop, forming fruit buds, and bear fruit in the next season. Biennial shoots that bear fruit should be cut off at the root in the fall, leaving only the young shoots of this year.
In the first year of growth, remove the inflorescences.
In the second year after planting, it is necessary to shorten the stems, leaving their length 1.5-1.8 cm. Do this in the spring before the buds open; the cut should pass above the last bud.
After each wintering, prune frozen areas to the first living bud.

In summer (early June), the bushes should be thinned out. Cut off all the young shoots, leaving 4-5 strong shoots for upright varieties, and 6-8 for creeping varieties. Pinch the tops of the shoots (cut them off by 5-8 cm).

Pruning blackberries in spring on video:

Blackberry pruning in autumn on video:

Why blackberries don’t bear fruit: reasons, what to do?

The main reasons why blackberries do not bear fruit are:

Blackberry freezing. Insufficient shelter for the winter can lead to the plants dying and not blooming in the spring, therefore, there will be no harvest. If the blackberries are frozen, you should not destroy them; with the right agricultural techniques, you can get a harvest for next year from new shoots. Sometimes the plant cannot be restored.
Lack of moisture. Young seedlings and plants during flowering and fruit ripening need watering.
Lack of fertilizers. If you did not apply any fertilizers when planting, or many years have passed since the last feeding, there will be no harvest.
Damage to blackberries by diseases.
Improper care and formation of the bush. Blackberries will not bear fruit and produce abundant harvests if there is thickening and if all branches do not receive enough sunlight.

To get good harvests, you need to cultivate the soil, cover the blackberries with reliable shelter in time, thin out the plants and tie the branches to supports.

A blackberry bush can grow and bear fruit in one area for many years. Blackberries are responsive to fertilizing and proper care. If all requirements are met, you can obtain consistently high yields of tasty and healthy berries.

Where to plant blackberries on the site

The choice of location depends on climatic conditions.

In cold regions, it is better to plant blackberries along a solid fence that will protect them from the north wind.

In the Moscow region and other regions where the warm season is short and the winter is long, blackberry bushes are placed in light, sun-warmed areas. It is desirable that there be protection from the prevailing winds in the form of buildings, trees or folds of terrain.

Like grapes, you can plant blackberries near the southern wall of the house or near the fence, retreating at least 1 m. Closed basins with stagnant cold air, as well as hilltops from which snow is blown, are not suitable for plants. Snowdrifts are the best protection for bent bushes from winter frosts.

Wetlands are not suitable for blackberries. Dampness provokes excessive growth of shoots and slows down their ripening, greatly reducing winter hardiness. It is advisable that groundwater does not come closer than 1.5 m to the surface of the earth.
But soil drought better than raspberries, but at the same time they respond well to moderate moisture in the root area.
To the south of the Middle Zone, it is recommended to plant blackberries in such a way that during the day the bushes are in slight shade. This will save the berries from damage in the sun. As for northern gardens, only the most winter-hardy varieties ( Agavam, Flint, Ufimskaya local ) can successfully grow and bear fruit in partial shade.

Closed ground

Greenhouse conditions make it possible to grow large-fruited blackberry varieties with high consumer qualities.

In an effort to grow late-ripening varieties of blackberries in the Moscow region or in Siberia, gardeners sometimes build greenhouses for plants that can extend the growing season. Modern materials (agrofibre, polycarbonate) allow the construction of protective structures without much hassle.

It is only necessary to provide for the possibility of opening the greenhouse in the summer , otherwise the leaves, flowers and berries will overheat. The roof of the structure is made removable or sliding so that the snow covers the bushes in winter. Roots and branches must overwinter under snow, otherwise they will freeze. The root system of blackberries is less winter-hardy than that of raspberries.

Difficulties of growing

Unfortunately, blackberries are not often found in gardens. The reason lies in the low winter hardiness and late ripening of most varieties.

Currently, new relatively winter-hardy varieties of blackberries have appeared, some of them can withstand temperatures down to -30 degrees.

In the southern regions of Russia, the bushes winter normally, but in the summer, ripe berries often spoil from the scorching sun. In the central zone, in the Leningrad region, in the Urals and in Siberia, only the most winter-hardy and early ripening varieties of blackberries bear fruit, provided that the shoots are bent down for wintering under the snow. The correct choice of place for blackberries and proper planting of bushes are important conditions for success in growing this valuable berry crop.

Trimming

One of the main principles of the formation of this culture is two types of shoots on one bush. The first, most important, is the fruiting biennial vines that bear flower buds. They are responsible for the level of productivity. The second shoots are like backups. This summer they will ripen, but only next fall will they bear fruit.

That is, all growth older than two years is cut. In the fall, those branches that bear fruit are removed so that the bush does not thicken.

Let's figure out how to prune blackberries correctly. You can leave no more than 4 vines on the bush of the first year, and next summer they will bear their harvest. For older crops, 5-6 back-up branches are enough. That is, one bush can have about 10-12 shoots: half from the first year, half from the second.

Garden blackberries: planting and care

Today it is extremely rare to find garden blackberries in summer cottages. Summer residents prefer to grow raspberries or raspberry trees. However, in vain, because blackberries require even less care than raspberries, and their nutritional properties are much higher. It is enough just to plant the blackberries correctly, and then simply care for them according to standard rules. It is better to choose a blackberry variety that has almost no thorns, and this is very easy to do. Caring for the plant is simple.

Garden blackberries: planting and care

Where to plant blackberries

In the garden plot for blackberries, a place is chosen where there is no wind, and the area has an average degree of lighting. However, some say that light plays no role in blackberries. But if there is not enough light, then practice shows that the berries lose size and taste. In order for the bush to gain strength, it needs to be planted in the spring.

Blackberry shoots bear fruit only in the second year. Then they die off. This must be taken into account when caring for the plant. All broken and diseased shoots are cut off and burned. Only ten strong shoots are left.

What you should know

Choice of material . Seedlings must be strong, strong - the myth that the crop is not susceptible to diseases is just a myth. So, the fungus that causes gray rot, verticillium - the list is long.
A special word about the variety : buy only in specialized shops and nurseries to minimize the risk of purchasing a low-quality product.
Supports can be equipped after . It’s a big mistake - we don’t drive in poles where the vine is located, but we plant bushes along the main structure. In addition, the shoots grow at lightning speed, and those who have not dealt with the crop before cannot imagine the rate of growth - daily, as mentioned above, up to one hundred meters per day. At this rate, it is difficult both to recognize the moment when a trellis is needed, and to drive the posts in the desired area and install the wire.

The gap between the bushes is the most common mistake of beginners. It’s too dense—there’s no feeding the plants, no lighting, and you can’t get close to the living wall or get to the berries. Otherwise, the excess space is empty - the gaps are large, and the excess is not enough. The main aspects are described above, but, most importantly, it all depends on the type and variety, the habit of the bush - on the eve of purchase, ask about the requirements, as well as the features of agricultural technology, find out more about the variety.
Fertilizer application : good - in moderation. Organic matter - humus, manure - is added in sufficient quantities, but not in excess. For one m2 - no more than two or three kilograms, for a bush - 1/2 of a shovel, as they say. Unrotted manure should not be applied - beware of parasites and excess nitrogen content if you apply an NPK complex. If you apply complex mineral fertilizers, do not apply them from the heart - but exactly in accordance with the instructions: excess is fraught with chemical burns.
The growth bud should be buried 1–2 cm, at a greater depth it will not break through, at a shallower depth it will become weathered and dry out.

Here we will conclude a short—yes, short, since the topic can be developed for a long time—story prepared by the editors of the KustRoz.ru website about how to plant blackberries correctly and the main points, as well as possible mistakes of the gardener and farmer. It remains to wish the reader a light hand, sweet berries and a generous harvest!

Shrub propagation

Blackberry growing technology includes special types of shrub propagation. You can plant berry crops in any season except autumn. The method of propagation depends on the type of plant:

creeping varieties are planted with horizontal and apical layering;
bush varieties - by dividing, cuttings and planting root layering.

The first method (horizontal layering) is considered one of the simplest. It is enough to dig a climbing shoot into the soil in the spring so that it gives roots and then shoots. When the layer is formed, it is separated and planted in a designated place.
When growing blackberries with horizontal layering, the stems bend toward the soil and are then covered along their entire length. As a result of the procedure, several bushes are formed, which are divided and planted.
Every year, several root suckers form around the bush, which must be separated and planted separately. But you need to choose only plants that have reached a height of 10 cm.
Dividing the bush is used for varieties that are not capable of producing shoots. The main task with this method is to divide the bush in such a way that all parts are fully developed and can take root.
Cuttings are used for especially valuable varieties of berries. The method involves cutting cuttings from the upper third of the stem. It should have buds, leaves and part of the stem. The cuttings are treated with a root-forming agent and planted in small containers (cups) in which a mixture of perlite and peat has been prepared. The containers need to be placed under film and kept in such a greenhouse for about a month until roots form. Humidity should be about 95%. After this, the seedlings take root in open ground.