✅ How to properly plant fir in the fall

For landscaping garden plots and parks, coniferous trees are most often used, among which fir is the leader. Unlike other conifers, it has a more lush and sophisticated crown. Its presence near the house not only transforms the territory, but also brings benefits - the tree exudes phytoncides that cleanse the air of pathogenic microbes. The fir aroma energizes and helps restore strength. Moreover, raising this majestic beauty will not be difficult.

What is interesting about fir for our gardeners and summer residents

Fir is an evergreen coniferous tree from the Pine family. It can be from 50 cm to 70 m in height, depending on the species. Only in nature can you find trees of gigantic size. And mostly medium-sized specimens are cultivated. The tree has a superficial root system. At a young age, the trunk is covered with yellowish-gray smooth bark, but over the years it becomes coarser and forms compactions that contain resin.

The fir has soft needles and erect cones of a bluish-violet hue.

The crown of the conifer is cone-shaped, and its base almost touches the ground. Unlike other representatives of this family, fir needles are soft and do not prick. Another individual feature is the horizontal arrangement of the branches. Egg-shaped cones with female and male spikelets grow vertically upward on them. The first flowering and fruiting of fir occurs after 25 years. On average, she can live up to 200 years.

Recommended varieties for summer residents

If you have a plot of more than 6 acres, landscape designers recommend planting 1 large coniferous plant and several dwarfs. Among the massive trees chosen are fir, spruce, berry yew, and pine. The tree is planted at the gate or in the center of a well-groomed lawn. From low-growing species, compositions are formed in the flowerbed, near the borders, near the playground.

Fir branch with dense needles

Selection of varieties:

Sabalpine Argentea is native to the USA. Reaches 15 m in height and 2 m in width. At a young age they are distinguished by active growth, giving an increase of about 15 cm per year. The sickle-shaped blue-green needles remain on the branches for up to 9 years. During the ripening period, the cones acquire a red-violet color, become brown in late autumn, and fall off in winter. In garden and park compositions, the variety is used to create hedges and composite compositions. The main advantage of Argentea is its resistance to spruce-fir diseases and aggressive conditions.
In most cases, a diamond is purchased for an alpine slide. Low-growing bushes (0.5 m) with a green crown fit into woody and floral compositions and set off the lush color of other plants. It is characterized by average frost resistance, moisture-loving, and is not afraid of direct sunlight and strong winds.
Prostrata - a dwarf variety intended for the southern regions of Russia. Its height does not exceed one and a half meters, and its width varies from 1 to 2 m. Young plants and new shoots on mature trees can freeze in winter. To avoid deformation of the crown, it is covered with insulation or insulated with sawdust.
Fir Prostrata
Kiwi is a precious dwarf emerald that never loses its decorative appearance. It grows to dimensions of 50*70 cm. Short and soft needles form a dense crown with a light whitish coating. To focus attention on the shrub, the tree trunk circle is sprinkled with deciduous bark and boulders are placed nearby.

Blue Glauka, variegated Variegata and neatly creeping Prostrata take root successfully.

Preparing fir for planting

To grow a healthy tree, it is important to initially approach the process correctly. This means the preparation of planting material and soil, the correct choice of planting site with optimal conditions for growth.

Selection of seedlings

It is recommended to buy seedlings in nurseries or special sales points. Regarding the acceptability of a particular variety, it is better to consult with a local specialist. Here the climatic features of the region where the plant will be grown are taken into account. It is preferable to choose frost-resistant types of fir (for example, Siberian, balsam or subalpine). You should not buy rare decorative forms that are thermophilic. There is a high probability of their death in the first year after planting.

It is recommended to buy fir seedlings in containers, as they take root better in open ground

When choosing seedlings, pay attention to their appearance. No damage, signs of disease or dry branches are allowed. It is more rational to buy specimens that are 4–5 years old. The soil in containers should be clean and moderately moist.

Location

Fir will transform any area if you choose the right place for it

It is ideal to place the fir in partial shade, which is especially important in the first years of life . The tree will not die from exposure to direct sunlight, but will grow weak. Fir does not tolerate drought - it begins to wither and lose the attractiveness of the crown. But strong winds are not scary for this conifer, so a single landing is possible. As for frost resistance, it varies by variety. But all young trees suffer from recurrent night frosts, which are not uncommon in central Russia.

Firs love clean air; gas pollution and dust can destroy them. Therefore, suburban properties are the ideal place for growing conifers.

Fir greatly depletes the soil during growth. Because of this, there should not be any fruit-bearing crops near the tree, which will suffer from a lack of macro- and microelements from such proximity. Falling needles oxidize the soil, which is contraindicated for many plants. They also take into account the height of the tree in perspective. So no wires should pass over the area. You cannot plant conifers close to buildings - it is optimal to make an indentation of at least 15 m.

The soil

For all firs, fertile and loose soil that is moderately moist is preferred. If the soil is heavy and clayey, when planting, you will need to lay drainage in the form of crushed stone or broken brick.

If the soil is clayey, then drainage is poured into the bottom of the planting hole.

Optimal soil mixture for fir trees:

leaf compost - 3 parts;
peat (humus) - 1 part;
river sand - 1 part;
clay - 2 parts.

How to avoid mistakes when choosing a fir seedling?

You can purchase planting material both in specialized stores and in local nurseries. Before purchasing, you should find out about the varieties that do best in your region. The best option for beginners is to purchase a short or medium-sized winter-hardy fir. Beginning summer residents should not take risks with the purchase of rare ornamental varieties with a low level of frost resistance. In this case, there is a high risk of losing the seedling in the first year.

Conifers in landscape design

When purchasing, pay attention to several signs:

seedling at least 4 years old;
the container is proportionate to the size of the plant - this is a guarantee that it grew in a pot and was not replanted before sale;
the soil in the container is moist, without mold;
the color of the needles is even, there are no brown spots on the branches and no white flakes at the base of the needles;
absence of mechanical damage and dry branches;
The shoots are elastic and bend when tilted.

If you don’t want to waste money in vain, then you will have to immediately abandon the idea of buying an ephedra with an open root system. Such a plant rarely survives. The only possible option is to purchase a seedling in the container in which it grew.

How to plant a fir: step-by-step instructions with photos

You can transplant seedlings from containers to a permanent place at any time during the spring and autumn period . And planting fir in spring (early) or early September is intended for plants with an open root system between 5 and 10 years old. It is advisable to carry out the procedure on a cloudy day after rain.

Sequencing:

Dig a hole with a depth of 50–70 cm and a diameter of 50 cm. Additionally, loosen the bottom by 10–15 cm.
When planting a fir, dig a hole of such size that the root ball can fit freely in it.
Fill the drainage with crushed stone or brick chips.
Fill the hole halfway with a nutritious soil mixture, and place a layer of sawdust and complex mineral fertilizers on top (the first - 10 kg, the second - 200 g).
Leave the hole for 2 weeks for the soil to shrink.
Then a mound is made in the center, on which the seedling is placed and the roots are carefully spread to the sides.
Fill the free space with the remaining earthen mixture. In this case, the root collar is left open.
After completing the work, water the fir abundantly and mulch the root space with peat and pine chips.

If a seedling is transplanted from a container, then it is placed in a hole along with a lump of earth

If several trees are planted, they are distributed depending on the desired result. The following schemes exist:

alley - seedlings are placed in a row at a distance of 4–5 m from each other;
checkerboard - trees are planted in a square shape with an interval of 3 m;
group - maintain a distance between plantings of 2.5 to 3.5 m.

A fir alone will look no less impressive. Then it is recommended to surround it with companion plants:

birches;
maples;
juniper;
firs.

Shade-loving flowers will feel good next to the fir.

How to properly transplant fir to a plot in the fall

To plant in the fall, you will need to choose a cloudy day in September. It is advisable for a little rain to fall after the process is completed. There are not many rules for replanting fir.

You will need:

prepare the area and pit;
bring a seedling from the forest along with soil;
prepare materials: broken bricks for drainage, sand, compost.

While you are preparing to plant, place the brought tree carefully on its side so as not to damage the branches.

Choosing a landing site

Fir trees grow in a shady area. But you can choose sunny. The main thing is that when the tree reaches its optimal height, it does not interfere: it does not create dense shadow in the garden, does not cover windows, or interfere with communication systems.

There should be a distance of at least 10 m between a tall fir and the nearest building.

The same applies to fences and other structures, including sidewalks and driveways, where the largest roots can eventually cause sagging of flat sections of the route and alleys. Groundwater should be lower than 2 m from the surface to prevent stagnation of water and rotting of roots.

2 weeks before planting you will need to prepare a hole. To do this, the area is dug up. Remove weeds. The depth of the hole will be about 60 cm. And the width will depend on the size of the root system.

Important! Also note that all conifers are susceptible to burns, including fir. Therefore, the area should be shaded naturally after 3 pm.

Preparing the soil for replanting fir

Good soil is the key to successful tree growth. If it is poor, just supplement it with organic fertilizers. Heavy and clayey - add sand. The goal is to create as large an area of fertile and useful soil as possible that can be taken up by the roots.

Therefore, the size of the planting hole will always be 2-3 times larger than the diameter of the seedling's root system . Remove weed roots and stones larger than your fist from the soil. You can leave those that are smaller by placing them in the drainage layer.

Tree planting:

Dig up the area.
Dig a hole to a depth of 0.5–0.7 m.
Be sure to lay drainage at the bottom. This could be pebbles, stones, broken bricks. The thickness of the layer is 15–20 cm. It is necessary to limit the contact of roots with excess moisture.
Now fill the hole with a mixture of leaf soil or compost mixed with river sand. This is necessary to increase the nutritional and moisture-retaining properties of the soil. Also add 10 kg of sawdust and 200 g of nitroammophoska to the composition.
Stir and place a heap at the bottom of the hole. Now place a seedling on it and add soil brought from the forest.
Straighten the roots along the sides of the earthen cone and begin to cover them with soil mixture. As a result of planting, the tree should be at the same level as it grew in the forest.

The tree trunk circle can be mulched after completion of work. This will help retain moisture in the soil and discourage weed growth. Mulch will also protect the soil from overheating in hot weather and from frost in winter. The height of the layer is 10 cm. It should be located around the tree, but not reach 15 cm to the trunk to prevent the root collar from being wetted by water.

Transplanting a tree from one place to another

After transplantation, conifers quickly adapt to a new place. If you want to change the location of a young plant, no special preparation is required. It is necessary to dig up the tree with a shovel, stepping back 35–40 cm from the trunk, and remove it along with the roots. Without shaking off the soil, the seedling is transported in a wheelbarrow to the planting hole and installed in it.

A different approach is required for mature fir. You can replant it like this: use a shovel to poke the ground around the tree with a larger indentation than in the previous case. This is done a year before the planned procedure so that the root system has time to grow within the designated border. This will prevent damage to the roots during transplantation. Then they take out the fir together with the earthen lump (it’s easier to do this together), transport it and plant it in a new place.

A suitable tree is found in the forest, dug up and transported to a new place for planting.

Many gardeners prefer to replant fir from the forest. The best time for this action is early spring or the last days of summer. What to do in such a situation:

Choose your favorite copy. It is recommended to stay on a tree no more than 1 m high.
Inspect the seedling for damage.
Dig the tree in a circle corresponding to the diameter of the crown.
Remove the tree and wrap the roots with a damp piece of cotton.
The seedling is delivered to its destination.
Before diving into the pit, the fabric is not removed, but only untied and straightened along the bottom.
The tree is covered with forest soil and watered abundantly (at least 1 bucket at the root).

To successfully root fir in a garden plot, it is recommended to take soil from the forest and add it to the planting hole. It is also worth remembering the south side of the trunk, so that you can then plant the tree on your site in a similar direction.

How to choose a location for a fir?

Reproduction of fir in the country begins with choosing a planting site. It is selected taking into account lighting conditions and soil specifics. Ultraviolet burns are contraindicated for young trees, so with the arrival of spring, the needles often change their shade to yellow and begin to crumble. You can prevent such consequences by shading the tree with burlap, spruce branches or hay. To prevent the young seedling from being damaged by strong winds, it must be tied to a peg.

When choosing a place to plant fir, you should be guided by the expected result. The tree is planted both individually and in groups. It is used for landscaping alleys.

There are no high requirements for the composition of the substrate, but experts recommend giving preference to soil with good moisture, nutrition and drainage. Moisture should not remain in the soil for a long time, because... stagnant processes can lead to rotting of the roots.

Before moving the seedling into open ground, the area is carefully dug up.

Plant care

Fir is not particularly demanding, but it still needs to be looked after, especially in the first years of its life. Necessary activities:

The first summer after planting at the dacha, water the seedling 2-3 times a month. After it is completely rooted, it should be moistened only in persistently hot weather. And the fir has enough natural precipitation.
Adult conifers have enough natural precipitation, so they are not watered
Systematically loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle to a depth of no more than 15 cm and at the same time remove weeds. You can mulch this space with peat and sawdust (layer thickness - 5–7 cm) without filling the root collar.
For the first 10–15 years, the tree is not pruned, but the crown is allowed to form on its own. The only thing is that it is permissible to prune dry and diseased branches.
Fir does not particularly need artificial crown formation, but sanitary pruning is necessary
2–3 years after planting, the tree is fed for the first time. To do this, use the mineral composition “Kemira-universal” (powder consumption - 100–120 g per planting), which is scattered in the tree trunk space.

Fir seedlings can be fed with bark, ash and peat

How to care for fir after transplantation

Despite the fact that conifers are unpretentious in terms of growing conditions and care, they will still need the attention of the gardener.

After planting the fir you need:

water;
fertilize;
loosen the soil after watering;
mulch;
carry out sanitary pruning;
fight pests.

Did you know? Conifers don't just decorate the garden; in winter, they provide birds with vital protection from precipitation and icy winds. Therefore, gardeners recommend planting about 1/3 of coniferous trees on the site.

Proper watering

Water newly planted fir trees quickly, saturating the soil with 1-2 buckets of water. It is necessary that the soil becomes moist, but not liquid. Excess water washes away beneficial substances into the lower layers of the soil, where the roots of the plant cannot yet reach them.

Continue to water weekly during the first year of growth. The exception is during periods of drought. If the top layer of soil is dry, water regardless of when the previous watering was. Mature trees can be watered less often - 1-2 times a month.

Evergreens never stop their life activity completely. Therefore, you will need to start irrigation in early spring and continue it until late autumn. The last watering is carried out 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost.

Trees planted near the highway are periodically sprinkled. This helps wash away dust from them. But this needs to be done in the morning so that the moisture has time to dry and the needles do not get burned from the daytime sun.

Reproduction

Depending on the purpose, fir can be propagated in two ways:

seeds - used for species fir, as it allows you to preserve the original characteristics;
cuttings - acceptable for decorative varieties.

Cuttings

To harvest cuttings, you will need last year's apical shoots located on the sides. Those taken from the middle or bottom subsequently give an ugly crown. Green cuttings are cut in April, woody cuttings are cut in August or September. Spring and summer divisions are rooted immediately, autumn divisions are placed until spring where it is humid and cool (the temperature is kept within 1–5 °C).

Clear the lower part of the cutting from needles

Cuttings from plants aged 4 to 8 years take root more successfully.

The optimal length of the cuttings is 15–20 cm. Each one should have only one bud at the top and a “heel” at the bottom (part of the bark from the parent tree). The needles are removed from the lower part (within 7–8 cm). The cuttings are immersed in the foundation solution for 5–6 hours. Then they are treated with root. This way it is possible to avoid fungal diseases in the future and speed up the rooting process.

Instructions:

The branches are planted in appropriate containers, having previously laid drainage (up to 5 cm thick) from stones or crushed stone.
A soil mixture consisting of sand, turf soil and wood ash is poured on top (everything is taken in equal proportions).
Plant the cuttings at an angle to a depth of 7 cm and at a distance of 10 cm. Immediately water them well and cover them with glass (plastic) caps.

It is recommended to place containers with cuttings in a greenhouse for the summer. The optimal temperature for germination is not lower than 20 ° C. Further care involves daily removal of the cover for ventilation and watering. At first, the plantings are sprayed once a day; in the summer, the amount is increased to four. By August, you can reduce the number of waterings to once every 2 days. For the winter, the boxes are moved to the basement, and in the spring they are taken out into the fresh air.

Deepen the cuttings by 2 cm and place them at an angle of 45 degrees.

Fir takes quite a long time to take root—in the first year, callus grows, in the second year, new roots appear.

Video: how to propagate fir by cuttings

Seeds

The seed method is less common because it requires significant time and physical investment. The first problem you may encounter is collecting seeds. The cones grow high and when ripe they immediately crumble, and the seeds are carried by the wind. Therefore, it is recommended to pick the cones in an unripe state . After which they are dried and the seeds are removed.

Ripe cones open and seeds spill out, which are carried by the wind.

It is better to plant fir seeds in the spring. The material is first subjected to stratification. First, it is left for 30 minutes in a manganese solution, washed with clean water and soaked again to swell. After this, the seeds are placed in nylon bags filled with raw sand and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. They are kept there for a month (from March to April).

Remove seeds from pre-dried cones

Such manipulations are not necessary if there are seeds that have already hatched on their own.

The soil for sowing at a summer cottage should be loose and sandy loam. A layer of sawdust 2–2.5 cm thick is evenly scattered over it, the seeds are distributed on top and covered with pine sawdust. After this, the crops are watered and covered with twigs to protect the seeds from negative natural manifestations. You can build a temporary greenhouse over the garden bed by digging into the sides of the arc and stretching the film over them. Then the soil will not be compacted.

The first shoots appear 3–4 weeks after sowing

After a maximum of 4 weeks, the first shoots hatch. From this moment they begin to water, loosen and weed the soil. At the end of the summer season, the protection is removed, and for the winter the tree trunk area is covered with spruce branches. Three times during the summer season, the seedlings are fed with a hydroponic solution or mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5. It is better to apply fertilizer immediately after watering. The following year, the grown seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place in the garden. By the age of four, the height of the trees will be no more than 30 cm, but in the future the growth rate will accelerate.

Care after landing

Growing fir is considered simple because the plant does not require special care. For the first 2-3 years it needs to be watered, protected from frost, and tied up. An adult tree should be fertilized once a year. The crop produces a small annual increase, so there is no need to worry about lack of nutrients.

Fir care involves preventive measures against uninvited guests. If favorable conditions are created for the plant, then the risk of infection or damage by pests is very small. Improper planting, lack of drainage in heavy soil, waterlogging or drying out of the soil lead to the development of fusarium, brown scute, and rust. Creating an optimal growing environment, removing damaged branches, and treating with biological products will help save the fir.

Dangerous pests include aphids, spruce moths, spider mites, fir and pine moths, leaf rollers, cone moths, wireworms, and bark beetles. To eliminate them, spraying with insecticides and biological preparations, catching adult individuals using traps, green manure, and treatment with compositions according to folk recipes are used.

The advantage of planting in spring is that the plant has time to adapt to new growing conditions by winter and is less susceptible to freezing. The culture is frost-resistant, but young seedlings require additional protection. The tree trunk circle should be mulched with peat, pine needles, straw, sawdust, and the tree itself should be covered with spruce branches. It is not recommended to use oilcloth, because without air access the branches will become moldy and begin to rot.

On a note! Mulch should not cover the root collar.

Watering

At first, it is recommended to moisten the fir once a week. An adult, rooted plant requires additional watering only in dry weather. A tree growing in an open area needs the procedure more often, since direct sunlight quickly dries out the soil, and for this species this is detrimental. In the fall, before a strong cold snap, it is recommended to carry out moisture-recharging watering of spruce plantings. Burning of needles from the bright spring sun often occurs due to lack of moisture; the plant is not able to withstand the unfavorable factor. In the absence of mulch, it is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm after each watering. Carry out the procedure carefully; some varieties of coniferous crops develop a superficial root system.

On a note! Young seedlings like to be watered by sprinkling.

Top dressing

It is carried out 2-3 years after planting. The optimal time is spring (late April - early May). Use universal complex additives as fertilizer. In the fall, add granular superphosphate and potassium salt when digging. From organic matter, it is recommended to use vermicompost and rotted compost. In spring, it is advisable to use liquid fertilizers, which will reach the root system faster. Water them along the tree trunk, and not at the root.

Soil care

The crop requires loosening and weed removal. If necessary, replant the fir, since the plant will not take root under constant exposure to unfavorable factors. In some cases, instead of fertilizing and transferring to a new place, it is recommended to remove the surface layer of soil by 10-15 cm and replace it with fertile soil mixture with soil from under spruce trees.

Pruning and crown formation

These procedures are additional, since the culture does not need them. Fir pruning is carried out at any time of the year except winter in order to remove damaged shoots - burned, infected with pests or diseases, dried out, frozen. Of the 2 intersecting shoots, the strongest or growing in the desired direction remains. The plant regenerates slowly, unlike fruit trees, so branches must be removed carefully, if indicated.

The breed is characterized by its decorative properties; crown formation is carried out only if the gardener wishes to give the fir a fancy shape or trim an overgrown plant. The procedure should be postponed until the dormant state - late winter or early autumn. In varieties with rope-like sharp needles, the cut should be made 1 cm above the bud. The topmost bud will become the new top and sprout. This pruning stimulates the growth of needles below the buds. For varieties with flat needles, trimming should slightly limit the outer growth in order to increase the fullness of the crown.

Pests and diseases

Conifers have strong immunity, but they also tend to periodically get sick and be affected by pests. So, due to excessive watering and lack of drainage, fir is often susceptible to a fungal disease - rust. It manifests itself as brown spots on the needles, swelling on the trunk and redness of the branches. In such a situation, the affected shoots are cut off and burned along with the needles outside the garden plot. Then the sections are treated with garden varnish, and the crown is sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture (200 ml per 10 liters of water).

When a fir tree is infected with a fungus, the needles turn yellow and become covered with white balls

To avoid re-infection of plants, remove the carrier herbs growing nearby - chickweed and chickweed (if any are present).

Among the pests that often plague fir are:

hermes;
bark aphid;
cone leaf roller;
shoot moth.

Pesticides or the preparations “Antio” and “Rogor” will help get rid of them (dissolve 20–25 g of the product in 10 liters of water). Trees are treated in early spring.

Types of fir

This genus includes more than 50 independent species, which are most often found in the Northern Hemisphere of our planet (temperate zone). Below we give examples of some species and cultivars that are currently known:

balsam fir, Nordmann;
whole-leaved, Caucasian;
one-color, ordinary;
mountain, white, Nana fir;
subalpine, Sakhalin;
Korean, Siberian
compact fir, dwarf fir.

According to breeders, these species and their forms are suitable for cultivation in our climate, which means they can be located in any summer cottage. Before purchasing, carefully study the conditions for planting the plant at the place where it is sold.

Preparing for winter

Most varieties of fir cultivated in the regions of central Russia are quite cold-resistant. However, young specimens need shelter for the winter. It is recommended to fill the tree trunk circle with peat or spruce branches about 12–15 cm thick.

To ensure that young trees overwinter safely, they are covered with any non-woven material.

Mature trees winter well without insulation, but in the spring they should be covered with non-woven material to protect them from direct sunlight.

Fir propagation

Fir reproduces well by seedlings. But in order for you to have this opportunity - to use your seeds for future plantings, you will have to tie the cones with gauze and wait for the seeds to fall out of the cones into the fabric. Otherwise, the birds will peck all the cones on the fir, because they really love to feast on them. And by the end of the season, usually only a small stick remains from the cone; everything else is destroyed.

Useful tips from experienced gardeners

Several professional recommendations will help beginners grow healthy and beautiful fir:

Since the lower branches of the fir spread along the ground, if you sprinkle them with humus, they will take root on their own.
In the first 2–3 years, it is important to regularly loosen and weed the seedlings, as well as mulch the ground near them.
Watering is only needed in hot weather. Adult plants do not need artificial moisture.
In small areas, it is preferable to plant decorative varieties of fir that grow no more than 8 m in height. It is worth paying attention to the following varieties: Elegance, Variegata and Glauka.

Preparing the site and fir seedlings

Fir is not a capricious plant, it is not afraid of winds, therefore, when choosing a place for a fir, proceed from the preferences and garden composition on the site. But remember that the young plant has not had time to take root enough to withstand strong winds; consider a low fence near the planted fir for the first few years. Open summer sun can damage the delicate fir needles; it is preferable to place the plant in partial shade. The optimal time for planting fir is early spring, however, summer residents in the central part of the country also practice winter planting, starting work in early autumn so that the fir has time to get stronger and take root.

The soil for fir must meet two simple conditions: fertile and with high-quality drainage; stagnant moisture is detrimental to the tree. For successful fir planting and further development, choose a seedling responsibly and do not rush to buy the first one that catches your eye. The optimal age of a fir seedling for easy adaptation to a new place is 4 years; younger trees may not take root and die. Inspect the tree: the roots of the fir are hidden together with a lump of earth in a special container, the needles are evenly spaced and have a rich green tint. Deviation from these rules is a reason to abandon the seedling in favor of another.

Landing dates

The optimal time for planting fir is April. Planting is allowed at the end of August or beginning of September, and the planting pattern in this case does not differ in any way from the spring one. However, a tree planted later does not always have time to adapt to new conditions before the onset of winter and may freeze.

Planting time is also determined by the climate of the region. For example, in the middle zone, gardeners prefer to plant a tree at the end of September or at the beginning of October, and in the southern regions it is possible to plant conifers even in winter, provided the temperature is above zero. In northern latitudes, as in most other areas, the most preferred planting time is spring.

Choosing a landing site

A site with suitable conditions for the crop is the key to successful fir growing. The plant feels good next to a reservoir, but the soil should not be over-moistened or constantly swamped. This perennial has a powerful root system that goes deep, so close passage of groundwater will lead to rot and death of the tree. You can plant a seedling in an orchard, on an alpine hill (ornamental varieties), or take it to the dacha. The main thing is to choose the right place so that you don’t have to replant.

shade-tolerant;
winter-hardy;
moisture-loving;
a young tree requires protection from strong winds and drafts;
does not tolerate gas pollution and smoke in large cities;
prefers drained, fertile soils.

On a note! Spring sun and dry air lead to damage to the shoots, but when favorable conditions are created, the damaged crown is restored.

Lighting for fir

The breed grows in the wild in shady forests, so it thrives in partial shade and shade. When planting a single plant, it should be taken into account that direct sunlight can cause needles to burn. At the same time, an open area where there is the possibility of slight shading of young seedlings will allow the fir to develop well, promote rapid growth, and accelerate seed bearing. In the forest, seed material is formed after 60-70 years, with single plantings after 30 years.

Is fir demanding on soil?

The culture needs loose, nutritious, slightly acidic soil that allows air and moisture to pass through well. The soil must have a sufficient amount of essential nutrients, so it must be fertilized before planting. Heavy clay soil and close groundwater flow require a drainage layer. When growing on sandstone, it is recommended to coat the bottom of the pit with clay.

When to replant fir

Planting trees on the site begins in early spring before the buds open. They will form roots if the air temperature rises above +5°C. In the same way, they can be planted in the fall - in September or October. The firs will take root, endure the winter calmly, and in the spring they will produce new growth of branches.

To a new place

If the tree was planted incorrectly and after some time there is a need to replant it, then this is done either in the spring before the buds open, or in the fall. The criterion for starting planting is the air temperature. Frost should not be expected on the soil. Of course, a tree can be replanted in the summer, but conifers do not tolerate planting in the summer heat and will suffer from pain.

In winter, the tree is also not disturbed. Firs, unlike deciduous trees, do not fall into a state of complete dormancy. This means that a poorly rooted root system will not be able to receive from the soil the moisture necessary to support the needles. Therefore, postpone planting until spring.

From the forest to the plot

Fir reaches a height of 60–80 m and a trunk diameter of 3.5 m. Therefore, no one replants mature trees. But you can always take a small seedling from the forest and plant it on your site. This should be done in March before the tree begins active sap flow. The fir will grow for over 200 years, so it is better to immediately choose the right site.

Important! Young forest firs need to be planted on the site on the same day that they were dug up and brought home.

When replanting, try to take as much soil as possible from the forest in which the tree grew. It contains mycorrhizal fungi. They form a single system with the roots, processing phosphorus and other difficult-to-digest substances, and in exchange they receive photosynthetic products from the tree.

For planting, select a fir from the forest no higher than 0.7–1 m. It is advisable to choose one that grows separately and not in a group.

Such trees are considered more resistant to disease and will adapt better to a new location. To then reproduce planting in natural conditions, you can mark the cardinal directions on the trunk with marking tape. And when planting it in a permanent place, unfold the tree in the same way.

The fir is dug up and removed along with the soil. The crown diameter of a 70 cm tree will be about 25–40 cm. Then the roots, along with the soil, are lowered into damp burlap. The branches must not be damaged during transportation. It is also forbidden to drag the tree by the trunk, so as not to break it.

Types and varieties of fir

This genus of conifers contains approximately 50 species, but it is necessary to analyze and characterize those varieties that have found the most distinguished reputation:

Balsam fir: is a very common and frequently encountered species. It is characterized by good frost resistance, but at the same time it is very thermophilic and demanding of circumstances. It is highly valued for its decorative qualities, since in spring the color of the pine cones acquires a combination of red and bright yellow tones.
White fir. It got its name from the color of the needles: 2 snow-white stripes run along the entire length of the emerald leaf. This color is good for decoration. Since this variety is sensitive to air and land pollution, in terms of distribution it will be inferior to Siberian and Caucasian varieties. In addition, at temperatures below -25°C the seedling freezes, for this reason this variety is not suitable for many areas.
Fir is one color. A notable variety, which is characterized by insensitivity to factors, including urban pollution. In addition, it is characterized by a huge variety of decorating varieties. It has found its wide use in gardening and landscape design.
Fir is one color. It is considered one of the especially favorites of gardeners, as it is planted in small places. Such fir trees are characterized by slow growth and attractive appearance, for this reason it is excellent for decorating flower beds.
Caucasian fir, which also has the name Nordman, is used most famously by Europeans during the Christmas period as a ceremonial tree for decoration. According to stories, the famous Trojan Horse was created from the wood of such a fir.

Features of planting fir

Before planting a fir, you need to know its requirements and preferences.
It is best to grow fir in partial shade. The plant itself is quite shade-tolerant and thrives in deep shade, but requires some light in the first few years of life. It can grow in the sun, but this is fraught with some diseases and weakness of the fir in the future. The plant is not afraid of wind, so single planting is possible, although in small groups it looks much more interesting. The soil for fir should be rich and fertile, sufficiently moist, but without stagnant water, preferably well-drained. It is imperative that a uniform distance be maintained between the plants, which will give them a certain freedom, and at the same time, when the fir trees grow up, they will look harmonious. In alley plantings, the distance requirement is 4-5 meters, in dense groups - up to 2.5 m. Fir can be planted in spring and autumn (April or September). In order for the fir to grow strong and beautiful, the seedling must be strong and ready for transplantation, preferably at the age of 5-10 years, the lump of earth around the root system must be intact. Fir should be planted to a depth of about 60-70 cm, the size of the hole is 60x60 cm. Make sure that the root collar remains at ground level. Also prepare the soil for planting. The most suitable composition would be sand, peat, leaf soil and clay (1: 1: 3: 2). On heavy soils, drainage is required; 20 cm of broken brick or crushed stone at the bottom of the planting hole will be sufficient. Fertilizer is also necessary during planting - full mineral fertilizer (200-300g) and about 10 kg of sawdust. If there are particularly severe frosts in your area, and there are also return frosts in the spring, be sure to cover the young fir trees with additional spruce branches. The entire tree needs to be covered, especially in the first year after planting - otherwise the fir will freeze. A fir tree can be considered an adult after 15 years. For the first 10-15 years, the tree grows slowly, and then growth accelerates and the fir grows 30-50 cm per year. At the age of 30 years, the fir usually reaches a height of 10 meters.

Features of growing fir from cuttings at home

To root a fir from a branch, take into account the following features of this process:

choose the source tree and its shoots correctly;
comply with work deadlines;
prepare the substrate;
provide the desired microclimate in the room;
care for rooted plants.

Without treatment, cuttings of Siberian, Korean, subalpine, and myra fir do not take root. Monochrome, graceful, European species take root best. Even after treatment, cuttings of subalpine and Arizona varieties do not produce roots.

Important! Root formation largely depends on the variety. Even within the same species, cuttings give different results.

Fir tree - description

Fir culture is monoecious, evergreen, heat-loving and shade-tolerant. Its root system is strong, taprooted, and goes deep into the soil. The bark of fir in its youth is thin and smooth, but with age it becomes thick and cracked. The foliage is cone-shaped, appearing right at the beginning of the trunk - this is what distinguishes the fir from other fir plantations.

Fir branches are arranged ring-shaped and horizontal, fir leaves are thin, entire-edged soft needles, compressed at the beginning into a small petiole. The tree's needles do not acquire a dirty red tone in winter, as happens with numerous other conifers; at the bottom, any fir needle is brightened by two snow-white stripes. On reproductive buds the needles are pointed, on vegetative shoots they have a slightly notched or rounded tip.

Male flowers look like earrings of cones, while female flowers look like oval, tubular or ovoid-cylindrical cones protruding upward. Female fir cones are made from a rod on which there are covering scales, in the center of which there are fruitful scales bearing 2 ovules. Fir trees are pollinated by the wind. At the time when fir seeds ripen, the scales on the cones turn to stone and fall off, releasing free seeds and retaining only the rods on the tree. In nature, in one place, a culture can survive up to three hundred years.

Aftercare

Caring for the presented crop in the country is not so difficult, but some rules are important to follow. Care includes several activities.

Watering

This criterion is determined by varietal characteristics. There are moisture-loving species that require moisture several times during the summer in case of drought. Most varieties do not need this procedure, and even, on the contrary, watering can negatively affect the health and appearance of the tree. The crop receives the required amount of moisture from precipitation.

Top dressing

As already mentioned, a tree planted using a nutrient mixture does not need to be fertilized for the next 2-3 years. An older specimen should be fed once a year. Additional nutrition is introduced in the spring.

For example, 0.1-0.15 g of Kemira-Universal complex fertilizer is suitable as a top dressing. When applying fertilizer, it is also necessary to loosen the soil.

Loosening and mulching

To reduce the risk of damage to the tree by insects and pests, the tree trunk area should be kept clean. After each rain or watering (in the case of growing moisture-loving species), you need to thoroughly loosen the soil and eliminate weeds. It is customary to mulch with a layer of 8-10 cm in such a way as not to hide the root collar - that is, about 0.5 m around the trunk. Peat, compost, and shredded tree bark can serve as mulch.

Trimming

Most varieties have a neat, aesthetic crown without human intervention, but there are decorative types that require pruning. The procedure is carried out in early spring, before the start of the growing season. At this time, sanitary pruning is also important, during which damaged, wilted or frozen branches should be removed.

Preparing for winter

Adult specimens can withstand frost on their own, but young trees need insulation. You can construct a protective shelter from slats covered with burlap. It is recommended to put straw, dry leaves or sawdust inside. Spruce branches can also serve as insulation. Such shelter options will not only help protect the plant from the cold, but will also protect the needles in the spring from the burns of the first spring sun.

Diseases and pests

Fir is rarely attacked by pests and diseases, but this problem can arise if planting rules are violated or when grown in inappropriate conditions. You can often see the manifestation of the disease brown schutte on a tree. It can be recognized by its yellowed needles, which turn black over time and by autumn become covered with black fungus. The infected specimen is removed, and neighboring plantings are treated with fungicides.

Another common fir disease is rust. The presence of the disease is indicated by an orange or yellow coating on the branches in the summer.

To prevent the disease, it is recommended to treat the seedlings with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture, and also to prevent the plantings from thickening.

Among the insects that like to feast on wood, the most popular insects are the false scale insect, the spider mite, the fir leaf roller, the pine pine moth, wireworms, and beetles. The best control methods remain insecticides and acaricides. Folk remedies, for example, infusions of tobacco, garlic or dandelion, are also acceptable for use.

How to properly care for and plant fir, see below.

Rules and scheme for planting fir

Fir planted in a summer cottage is somewhat finicky to care for, but its cultivation is quite feasible. Aesthetic appearance, healing properties, magical aroma - all this makes fir a fairly common resident of private gardens, and some difficulties during planting and care do not frighten Russian summer residents.

Fir in landscape design

Among the huge selection of coniferous crops used to normalize the design of a place, Korean fir is used in a special place. And there is no need to be amazed at this. All you have to do is see this beautiful plant in a landscape composition and it will forever captivate the hearts of many people.

One of the valuable properties of its use in landscape compositions is its slow growth. In addition, there are small forms of such decorative trees. It is perfect for landscaping small suburban areas; it looks great in combination with other coniferous and deciduous trees and shrubs. It can be used as a New Year's tree. The main obstacle to the wider use of Korean fir for landscaping urban areas is its strong sensitivity to air pollution.

Prevention of diseases and pests

The fir, with its fluffy, dense crown, is not only an attractive object in the garden, but also a favorite of some insects.

In particular, pests such as:

Hermes aphids are small winged insects that cause yellowing and bending of needles. Their presence can be determined by small black dots on the needles and fluffy snow-white formations on its reverse side;
false scale insects - provoke browning of needles and drying out of shoots, leaving behind brilliant traces;
spider mite - the presence of an insect on fir is characterized by yellowish spots on the needles and the presence of a thin web. Most often, the tick becomes active in hot, dry weather;
fir and pine moths are pine-eating pests that lay eggs under the bark, and soon caterpillars emerge from them, which cause the main damage by feeding on fir sap. As a result of their vital activity, the needles curl and dry out.

They fight insect pests using chemical insecticides, such as Confidor or Akarin. However, it is better to prevent insect attacks than to get rid of them later. Throughout the season, you should take care of the tree, carry out preventive spraying of the fir using different chemicals so as not to cause addiction. For example, in the spring you can treat trees with “Aktara”, in the summer with “Commander”, and in the fall, in preparation for winter, with “Aktellik”.

Find out how to treat diseases and control fir pests.

It is also recommended in the spring to install trapping belts made of straw or burlap on the trunk, which will prevent pests from climbing up. In addition to pests, a number of fungal diseases pose a danger to fir trees, such as brown scute, fusarium, and pine needle rust. There are also completely destructive illnesses. For example, rust cancer, manifested by thickening of woody areas. If the growths are noticeable only on the shoots, you can carry out sanitary pruning and thereby save the tree. When the thickenings are clearly visible on the trunk, it is useless to fight - the fir must be destroyed.

Diseases most often arise due to improper planting or failure to comply with proper measures for the maintenance and care of the crop. Staying all day in the open sun or, conversely, a heavily shaded area, waterlogged soil, planting a low-quality seedling or placing it too deep - each of these factors can trigger the appearance of fungus. If signs of a disease are detected, first of all you need to establish the cause and try to eliminate it. Do not forget about fertilizing, since a fertilized tree has strong immunity.

Also read about the difference between fir and spruce.

As a preventative measure, it is useful to periodically spray with fungicides such as Bordeaux mixture, Hom, etc. Among other conifers, fir is particularly decorative. Its needles are soft and fluffy, and do not prick at all, which is what distinguishes the tree from its counterparts - spruce and pine. The plant is capable of giving people joy and benefit for centuries, and in return requires only a small amount of attention and care, which its owners must remember.