Diseases and pests of carrots: what threatens the root crop in the garden, Alternaria and Phoma

Why do carrots rot? The most common problem with carrots in storage is various types of rot, pests and violation of storage conditions.

Types of carrot rot
Soft rot (mucous bacteriosis).
Alternaria (black rot).
Fomoz (dry, brown rot).
Scab (rhizoctoniosis).
Sclerotinia (white rot).
Causes of rot:
How to deal with carrot diseases
Carrot pests
Prevention of pest attacks
Why do carrots crack or grow crooked?
The carrots are cracked.
Ugly shape of root vegetables
"Hairy" root vegetables.
How to avoid damage to carrots

How to tell if carrots are sick

Carrots can get sick when grown in the garden, and mold can appear on carrots in storage. It is easy to recognize the disease even from a photo. If the appearance and shape of the leaves have changed, insects have appeared on them, the roots are damaged or have a strange shape - this indicates that the vegetable is unhealthy.

Signs and symptoms

Each disease has its own symptoms. The main signs of damage to carrots on green tops and petioles :

blackening of the stem, constrictions on it;
the appearance of spots of different colors on the stem and leaves - brown, gray-brown, yellow, black;
bacterial exudate - gray-white or light yellow drops on the stem and lower leaves;
darkening, curling, yellowing, drying of leaves, their death;
plaque on leaves and petioles of any color;
leaves and petioles are eaten.

How to properly store carrots in a basement or subfield

Only healthy root crops without mechanical damage are sent to the cellar for storage. Carrots are kept in:

sand;
boxes;
mele;
clay;
plastic bags.

Once every 2-3 weeks, vegetables are inspected and damaged roots are removed in a timely manner.

Advice. The harvest from the beds is harvested on a dry day at an air temperature of +4...+6°C. Carrot tops must be trimmed at a distance of 1 cm from the base of the root crop.

What to do if mold appears on carrots in the cellar? The harvest is removed, the storage facility is treated with antifungal agents or sulfur bombs, the walls are ventilated and insulated with waterproofing materials. The containers are washed with a solution of potassium permanganate, and the gardening gloves they were wearing are thrown away.

Causes of diseases

Causes: damage by fungi, bacteria or viruses. At first glance, it is difficult to understand whether a vegetable is sick or has not been properly cared for. The methods of “treating” root crops depend on a correctly made “diagnosis” .

How to distinguish diseases from a lack of microelements and errors in cultivation and care

The main external signs that the cultivation is going wrong and the disease may soon affect the carrots: the carrots crack and look unappetizing, take on bizarre, ugly shapes or are poorly stored.

Let's consider the reasons:

Excess nitrogen . Nitrogen fertilizers are applied a year before planting carrots, i.e. for crops that were planted before it.
Irregular watering, sudden waterlogging . Proper watering of carrots: 2-3 times a week, so that the soil is saturated to 20 cm.
Heavy soil , for example, clay, makes it difficult for root crops to germinate. If the soil is dense, the seeds will not sprout. Loosen the soil as soon as seedlings appear and after each rain or watering. The soil is maintained in a loose state throughout the growth of the carrots.
Lack of feeding. Taste quality deteriorates. To make carrots juicy, they are fed with “Nitroammophoska” - 25-30 g per m².
Irregular watering and lack of loosening are the causes of “hairiness”. If the carrots are covered with suction roots, they can be eaten, but they cannot be stored for long. The smoothness of carrots can be restored if errors in care are corrected. Then the suction roots will stop growing in all directions to get water and air.
No hilling . If the top of the root vegetable becomes bare and begins to turn green, it means that solanine has formed in it, a poison that gives the vegetable bitterness. To avoid this, carrots are regularly hilled when the soil is moist. The first time is when the carrot’s tail has broken through and grown a little, and subsequently, as soon as the upper part sticking out of the ground is exposed.
Lack of thinning is the reason for low yields. Carrots are thinned out after watering or rain. The first time - when two true leaves have grown, then - after two weeks. There should be 4-6 cm between shoots.

Interesting things on the site:
The main reasons why carrots do not grow
Carrot crop rotation rules
Why carrots are bitter and how to prevent it

Sclerotinia, or white rot

Carrots damaged by white rot are unfit for consumption.

Sclerotinia or white rot manifests itself even at the growth stage, but massive crop loss from this disease occurs during storage. Affected root vegetables are first covered with small white spots with a cottony coating. Within a few days, the plaque thickens and turns black. Over time, oily droplets begin to emerge from the stains.

It is almost impossible to eliminate an existing carrot disease. You can avoid the spread of infection by reducing watering and removing diseased plants from the garden. Proper soil preparation before sowing also plays an important role. If it is heavy and acidic, in the fall you can add 150-200 g of dolomite flour or fluff lime per square meter.

To prevent the spread of sclerotinia, when storing carrots, it is recommended to maintain the temperature regime (not higher than 10°C) and optimal air humidity.

What are carrot diseases?

Carrot diseases are divided into three groups: fungal, viral and bacterial . Sometimes they appear almost identical in appearance and differ only in one or two characteristics. Correctly identifying the pathogen means protecting the crop and soil from the spread of the disease.

Fungal

The largest group of diseases . They develop due to sudden changes in air temperature and high humidity. The pathogens spread quickly and live in the soil for a long time. Fungal infections are treated in the early stages.

Fomoz

Name	Signs
Dry rot, or phomosis of carrots	At the end of the growing season, oblong gray-brown spots form on the petioles and leaves. When storing crops at temperatures above 10°C, black-brown depressions with a white coating appear on top of the root crops. The spots grow and affect the entire vegetable.
White rot	It affects root crops, which soften during storage and become covered with a white fluffy coating. Later, a crust with black dots forms on them.
Felt rot, or rhizoctonia	Carrots are affected during the period of active growth or during storage. Dark gray spots form on root crops, which are covered with a purple felt coating and black dots.
Gray mold, or botrytiosis	During storage, the surface of the root crop becomes soaked, completely darkens and becomes covered with a gray coating.
Black rot, or Alternaria blight of carrots	Occurs at any stage of vegetable development. The stem becomes black, the leaves turn yellow, curl and dry, and black dry rot appears on the root crop.
Cercospora	Light brown spots form on the leaves, their light center grows over time. If the humidity is high, the leaves become covered with bloom, curl and die. The root crop remains small and no longer grows.
Powdery mildew	The disease develops due to high humidity in the air or soil. The tops turn yellow, and white dotted spots appear on its lower part. Then the stem dies, the roots become bent and remain underdeveloped.
Fusarium	It affects early varieties of carrots; the peak of disease development is the first half of June. The tops grow poorly and brown spots appear on the petioles. Root crops are twisted, with cracks. When storing infected carrots, a fluffy white-pink coating appears. Typically, such root vegetables are dense, dry and tasteless.
Brown spot	It affects vegetables at all stages of development. In young plants, brown constrictions appear on the lower part of the stem. Yellow spots form on the leaves of mature plants, then they turn brown or black.

Alternaria (black rot)

Viral diseases

The virus is most often found in the southern regions . The disease is called "variegated dwarfism" and is transmitted through the willow-carrot aphid.

Signs of the disease are visible only at the 3-4 leaf development stage . The tops become distorted, stop growing, and become reddish. The plant stops developing. Root hairs form on the root crop, reddish spots appear, and lignification occurs. These carrots are not eaten.

Bacterial

Bacteria cause wet bacterial rot, or bacteriosis . With this disease, yellow spots form on the lower leaves, then they darken, leaving yellow outlines around. Bacterial exudate is released at the base of the leaves: gray-white or light yellow smudges. Brown stripes or spots appear on the stem. Root crops become covered with ulcers and brown spots. The vegetable smells sharp and unpleasant.

Bacterial rot (bacteriosis)

Carrot jaundice , which is transmitted by psyllids, is considered a rare intermediate disease between viral and bacterial. The disease affects carrots from the moment they emerge. The leaves turn yellow, first turning yellow and then turning reddish-purple. There are many stems, but weak, the tops look like a “witch’s broom”. Lateral roots form on root crops. During storage they become soft.

Reference. Plant yellowing is caused by phytoplasma that invades plant cells and changes them so that they are more attractive to insects. This is how phytoplasma spreads through carrots, parsley, celery and other vegetables.

Description of the main diseases of carrots and methods of their treatment

Carrots are most often affected by fungal diseases, although infections can also occur that lead to the destruction of the entire crop.

Alternaria blight

Infectious disease caused by Alternaria fungus. Signs:

the appearance of dry dark spots on the root crop, slightly pressed into the pulp;
the spots gradually become covered with a gray and then black coating.

Alternaria of carrots develops through contaminated soil, untreated seeds before planting, and through weeds.

Infected plants must be removed, while still healthy specimens must be sprayed with fungicides “Ordan” and “Kuprokstat”. Fungicides are applied every 2 weeks until the fungus is eliminated.

Fomoz

Carrot blight is an infection that can occur at any stage of crop development. Signs:

the appearance of depressed spots or stripes on the tips of root vegetables;
gradually the spots become soft and darken;
the root crop becomes empty.

Attention! The pathology may not manifest itself in the first year, but in the second year its rapid development is noted with the rapid destruction of the crop.

Infected vegetables must be disposed of. To prevent Phoma during the period of active growth of carrots, it is necessary to apply fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus.

Phomasis cannot be cured

Types of rot

The main types of rot that affect carrots and their descriptions:

White - covering root vegetables with a white coating with dark dots. There is mucus underneath the coating. Damaged vegetables must be destroyed.
Black rot of carrots develops on already harvested crops. It manifests itself as darkening of the tops, which then become yellow and curl. Root crops become covered with dark, dry spots on which dark green mold forms. The disease has no cure. Prevention - planting varieties that are highly resistant to this rot.
Gray rot of carrots or botridia is the appearance of watery brown spots, which over time become loose and become soft. The plant must be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

Attention! Many types of rot begin to develop on already harvested crops. Before putting root vegetables in boxes, you need to select low-quality specimens, and the walls in the basement where the carrots will lie must be whitewashed with disinfectants.

Disease control methods

Various methods of combating carrot diseases are successful - both folk and chemical . Often gardeners have to look for the method that is suitable for a particular soil type and climate. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with each of them in more detail in the table.

Disease	Folk method of struggle	Chemicals	Other
Dry rot, or fomoz	Garlic solution : the heads or shoots of the vegetable are crushed. Dissolve 1.5 cups of garlic in 1 bucket of water, leave for 24 hours, filter the solution, add 2 g of potassium permanganate. Spray at the first sign of disease of the plant or its neighbors. Then - every 2 weeks.	Before planting, fertilize with a phosphorus-potassium mixture. Spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture at the first signs of disease.	All diseased plants are destroyed.
White rot	Mix crushed chalk with a strong solution of potassium permanganate: the consistency is liquid, the chalk should completely dissolve. Spray onto the plant with a brush.	For spraying, chemicals are used: copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, Hom, Rovral, Euparen multi or other copper preparations. 1 remedy – 1 season, otherwise addiction occurs.	Since the virus is transmitted from weeds, at the first signs of disease, thorough weeding is carried out. All infected vegetables are dug up and burned.
Felt rot, or rhizoctonia	The virus cannot be removed using folk remedies.	Before sowing, lime is added to the soil. The disease is treated during the period of active growth: sprayed with preparations containing copper chloroxide.	After harvesting, the root crops are carefully selected. All damaged and cracked ones are thrown away.
Gray mold, or botrytiosis	For a small number of gray rot foci, use a mixture of chalk (1 cup), wood ash (1 cup), and copper sulfate (1 tsp) per 10 liters of water.	Carrots are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture - it helps even at the late stage of infection. The virus is also treated with fungicides, for example, Fitosporin-M.	In storage, affected areas of root crops are cut off, and the remaining parts are sent for processing. The room is ventilated for 1-2 hours after cleaning.
Black rot, or Alternaria	When watering, add solutions of mullein or nettle. 1 kg of raw materials is placed in a large non-metallic container, 10 liters of cold water are poured. The mass is placed in the sun for 2 weeks and stirred daily. Before watering, dilute with water - 1:5.	They get rid of the disease by spraying with the drug “Rovral”.
Cercospora	The shoots are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture.	The premises where carrots are stored are treated annually with lime and sulfur blocks.
Powdery mildew	Dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of hot water. l. mustard powder, cool, sprinkle on the affected bushes, and the rest is poured under the roots.	After the carrots are collected, all plant residues are burned, the soil is dug deep and wood ash is added (200 g per 1 m²).
Fusarium	25 g of grated laundry soap are diluted in 1 liter of milk, 35 drops of iodine are added. Plants are sprayed with this product.	Affected plants are treated with fungicides: “Baktofit”, “Fitosporin-M”, “Trichodermin”, “Maxim”.
Brown spot	The plants are treated with a decoction of pre-crushed celandine, horsetail or nettle. The grass is soaked in 10 liters of water, after an hour it is squeezed into the same water. After 3 hours, liquid or laundry soap and calcium chloride (1 ampoule) are added to the resulting infusion. Strain before spraying.	Solutions “Bravo” and “Quadris” perform well. Repeat treatment after 1-1.5 weeks.
Variegated dwarfism	Plantings are pollinated with ash or tobacco dust.	The beds are treated with chemical insecticides: “Intavir”, “Karate”, “Iskra”, “Commander”, “Zeon”.	Coriander, garlic, basil, and mustard are planted between the rows. The aphids that cause the disease are washed off with water.
Bacterial rot, or bacteriosis	Does not exist.	Spray the seedlings with the preparations “Hom”, “Fundazol”, “Yamato”, “Bayleton”.	Affected plants are removed and burned.
Jaundice	Does not exist.	Insect carriers are destroyed by washing them off with water.

Powdery mildew

Bacteriosis, or wet rot

Wet rot loves high temperature and humidity

Wet rot or bacteriosis of carrots begins to manifest itself even while the crop is growing in the garden. First, small yellowish spots appear on the leaves, then the infection spreads to the root crop. Round, watery sores form at its tip, quickly spreading over the entire surface. Carrots give off a sharp and unpleasant odor and become slimy.

Carrot bacteriosis most often affects plants in hot, humid weather. To avoid crop loss, you can disinfect storage areas of root crops with sulfur bombs. Crop rotation and removal of plant debris and weeds from the beds also help to cope with the disease.

The infections listed above can be destroyed in the soil by adding the biological products Trichodermin, Gamair and Fitosporin-M to it before planting.

Prevention measures

The best way to fight diseases is prevention. By following the rules of planting, pre-planting preparation and care, you can avoid severe infections and save the harvest.

Pre-planting treatment of the site and seeds

Preplanting treatment of the site consists of applying fertilizers before sowing . They start in the fall, after the harvest has been harvested and a new place for planting carrots has been determined. When digging the soil, feed:

sandy - scatter a bucket of humus and peat per 1 m²;
loamy - pour half a bucket of sand and 100 g of superphosphate, lime and potash fertilizers.

After the work is completed, the soil is dug up and sifted, if after digging it has not become loose.

In the spring, before planting, nitrogen fertilizers (urea) or fertilizers containing nitrogen (“Tsitovit”) are incorporated into the soil.

During sowing, the beds are sprinkled with wood ash or dolomite flour . Ash contains potassium and phosphorus, reduces soil acidity and protects against diseases. Mineral fertilizers are also applied: per 1 m² - 100 g of potassium fertilizer, 200 g of superphosphate and 50 g of sodium nitrate. All this is covered with lime for better absorption of fertilizers at the rate of 100 g per 1 m².

Carrot seeds are disinfected before sowing , then they will not be afraid of fungus and other diseases:

Soaking in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate . 1 g is dissolved in 100 ml of water, the seeds are placed there for 15-20 minutes, taken out, washed with clean water and dried.
Use of biostimulants . The most famous is “Epin”: for one drop of the drug, take 50 ml of water at room temperature, keep the seeds for 2-4 hours, wash and dry until free-flowing. They also use potassium humate or sodium humate: add 100 ml of water to 1 g of powder - this is the mother liquor. One drop of it is diluted in 200 ml of warm water and the seeds are soaked for a day.
Folk recipe with aloe juice : a leaf of a three-year-old plant is wrapped in gauze and a bag and kept in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. Then the juice is squeezed out of it, 5-10 drops of which are diluted in a glass of water, and the seeds are placed there for a day. Do not wash off, dry and plant.

If you have purchased seeds , look for the marking on the packaging indicating that they have been treated for disease. There is no need to re-disinfect these seeds.

Take note:
Preparing a dressing for carrot soup for the winter
How to deliciously prepare carrots in Korean style in jars

Other techniques

The best way to protect carrots from diseases is proper care . The plant needs to be provided with timely watering, loosening, hilling, weeding and fertilizing.

Proper care begins with planting : plant seeds in sandy soil to a depth of 4-5 cm, in clay soil - 1 cm. Carrots love warmth and sun. It should grow in open, unshaded areas. Ensure timely watering, loosen dense soil after watering or rain. Hill up for the first time when the carrot's tail has appeared and slightly grown. Then - as the top is exposed.

Attention! You can grow carrots in the same place after 2-3 years. Do not plant vegetables after lettuce and parsley - they have common pests.

Mineral fertilizers that are necessary for carrot growth and protection from diseases are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus: “K-humate-Na”, “Crystallon”, “Solution”, “Kemira”. They are not paid at once.

Important! It is necessary to get rid of weeds in the garden bed and between the beds. Weeds attract pests that spread to carrots and are carriers of fungal and other diseases.

How to deal with carrot diseases

Maintaining crop rotation . It is extremely undesirable to plant carrots in the same place for several years in a row and after related crops.

Cleaning up plant residues : they create a favorable environment for the reproduction and wintering of pathogens.

Proper agricultural technology and care . Carrots prefer light, well-cultivated, humus-rich, non-acidic soils. Does not tolerate stagnant water. With irregular watering, as well as with abundant watering in extreme heat, root crops tend to crack, which leads to damage by diseases and pests. Be sure to thin out the carrots; thickening leads to weakening of the plants and the rapid spread of any diseases. When applying fertilizing, it should be taken into account that an excess of nitrogen and a lack of potassium greatly reduce the keeping quality of the crop, therefore, before harvesting, only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be applied and nitrogen fertilizers should be avoided.

Harvest on a dry day, preferably at a temperature of +4...+6 °C. The tops are cut at a distance of 1 cm from the base, then the carrots are well dried and sorted. Damaged root crops should not be stored.

Sanitation of storage and containers . Before storing the crop, it is advisable to fumigate the storage with a sulfur bomb (if possible) or wash it with a disinfectant, for example, a solution of potassium permanganate.

Maintaining optimal storage conditions . Carrots should be stored at a temperature of 0...+2 °C in a well-ventilated area.

Treating seeds before sowing if you are using your own planting material.

Preventive treatment of carrots against fungal infections: 20-30 days before harvesting, it is recommended to treat the crops with 1% Bordeaux mixture or other copper-containing preparation (Hom, Abiga-pik). It should be borne in mind that copper-containing products have a mainly fungicidal effect and are weakly effective against bacterial diseases.

Selecting resistant carrot varieties . When purchasing seeds, give preference to those varieties that are stated to be resistant to infections. Do not plant the same variety for many years, even if you really like its taste: over time, pathogens evolve, and old varieties lose resistance to them.

What are carrot pests?

Pest control is carried out not only on carrots, but on the entire garden plot , all affected crops are treated, and the beds are weeded as they become overgrown. Only such a fight will save plants from damage and death. The table shows carrot pests in the garden and methods for controlling them.

carrot fly

Carrot pests and their descriptions	Signs of pest damage	Fighting methods
Carrot fly . The pupa sleeps underground and turns into a small gray-brown insect. It is difficult to distinguish on carrot tops.	It feeds on root vegetables. The tops acquire a bronze tint, dry out and die.	Spray with chemicals “Shar Pei”, “Decis Profi”, “Aktellik” or pour over with pure ammonia.
Psyllad . The pest is transparent green in color. The wings and legs are like those of a flea. Females lay eggs on the tops so that the larvae feed on the sap of the leaves.	The larvae actively eat the foliage, causing the plant to dry out.	The eggs that appear are collected, the beds are treated with a soap solution or tobacco dust (400 g of the drug per 10 liters of water).
The umbrella moth looks like a brown butterfly.	Eats carrot fruit and weaves cocoons on the root crop. They drink vegetable juice before turning into a pupa. The tops darken, the root crop dries.	The seedlings are treated with Lepidocide or Entobacterin.
Naked slugs . They have a smooth grayish-pinkish or yellowish-white body with stripes or black spots. It is easy to recognize that slugs have appeared by the sticky shiny mark on the leaves and fruits.	Found where soil moisture is high. They eat leaves and eat holes in root crops.	The lime solution is mixed with 250 g of ash, 600 g of superphosphate is added and the soil is treated.
Wireworms are pale yellow worms 3 cm long, the larvae of the click beetle. If there is a dark, striped, shiny beetle in your area that makes a loud clicking noise, it is time to exterminate it.	They feed on fruits, eating punctures in them.	How to deal with wireworms on carrots? Carrots are fed with ammonia fertilizers. The pest is destroyed with the drugs “Bazudin” and “Aktara”.
Carrot aphids are small green insects that completely cling to carrot leaves.	When there are aphids on carrots, the greens curl and dry out, and the carrot stops developing	Spray the plantings with infusion of tobacco, ash or soapy water (400 g of product per bucket of water).
The mole cricket is a large brown armored insect.	Gnawing on carrot stems and roots. The plant dries and withers. Gnawed root vegetables are not eaten.	A mole cricket trap: manure is placed on the boards, and the mole cricket climbs in to live. After two weeks, the pile is burned along with the pest. The chemical method of control is the drug “Medvetox”.
The root-knot nematode is a small worm-like insect.	It invades carrots and forms ugly growths on them.	Treat the soil with the anthelmintic drug “Dekaris”.
Exclamation scoop . Looks like a brown butterfly. The vegetable is destroyed by caterpillars that lie in the ground before pupation.	It feeds on the root part of stems and root crops, making passages and holes in them.	They are destroyed with chemicals “Decis”, “Polytrin” and “Fury”, sprayed with infusions of burdock and chamomile (two packs of the prepared mixture per bucket of water).

Wireworm

Treatment of diseases

If, despite all efforts to prevent carrot diseases, you find signs of infection in your plantings, emergency medical care will help save the crop:

for gray rot of carrots, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers and spraying with preparations containing copper is necessary; the drug Rovral also helps well;
white rot does not like potassium fertilizers - feed the carrots with potassium sulfate (1.5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), it is also worth spraying the beds with Gliocardin;
the drug Rovral helps well against black rot;
with brown spotting, loosening the beds will help; for treatment, use the preparations Bravo, Quadris, Hom;
fungicides Fitosporin-M, Topsin-M and copper sulfate (0.5%) save from powdery mildew;
cercospora infection is effectively treated with biological products Quadris and Gamair;
To prevent bacteriosis, carrots for winter storage should be sprayed with TMTD fungicide or dusted with chalk dust.

Photo gallery: antifungal agents for carrots

Glyokladin is intended for the prevention of root and basal rot

Rovral stops the germination of fungal spores and blocks the development of mycelium

The drug Fitosporin-M is used for preventive spraying and treatment of diseased plants

The copper-containing drug Hom is considered an excellent substitute for Bordeaux mixture

Not everyone is ready to treat their gardens with chemicals. Traditional methods are not as effective as industrial drugs, but they are less dangerous. The following means are used:

As an immunostimulant, many summer residents use an infusion of compost or nettle (500 ml per 10 liters of water);
Cladosporiosis is fought with an infusion of celandine (300–500 g of dry grass per 10 liters of water) and horsetail (1 kg of fresh plants per 10 liters of water);
at the first signs of powdery mildew, the bed is treated with a mixture based on rapeseed oil (1%) with colloidal sulfur and boric acid in equal proportions (1 g of powder per 1 liter of water).

Prevention measures

To defeat pests that live underground , the soil is dug up twice: in the fall and in the spring, before planting, about one and a half times. All pests that have been hibernating since the fall will appear on the surface and die. And in the spring, once again loosening the soil, they kill not only the emerging pupae, but also create good conditions for the growth of the vegetable.

To prevent pests from appearing on the tops , weeds are removed from the garden beds and between rows in a timely manner. If they were not affected, they are sent to compost, and if they were damaged, they are burned.

Why do carrots sometimes grow yellow instead of orange? The reason is poor quality planting material. It is recommended to plant seeds purchased from reputable stores . If you are sure that the carrot seeds collected from your plot are not contaminated, plant them, but be sure to treat them before planting.

carrot aphid

The chemical method of soil treatment for the purpose of prevention consists of two phases:

When 4-6 carrot leaves appear, treat with ATO Zhuk (3 ml per 10 liters of water).
When 6-9 leaves grow, they are treated with the drug “Fas” (4 ml per 10 liters of water).

Prevention of damage

Since garden crops suffer from the invasion of many enemies, it is better to take measures in advance to prevent them. Helpful advice from experts will help in this matter, such as:

First of all, you need to adhere to the rules of crop rotation and not plant the same crop in one place for several years in a row.
If carrot plantings are covered with light material, this will help protect the plants from carrot flies and psyllids.
You need to plant only high-quality seed purchased from trusted retail outlets.
Timely removal of debris, leaves, unnecessary building structures and other items from a dacha or garden plot will help protect the area from many pests.
Deep digging of the soil should be practiced. This approach will not only help fight various pests, but also have a positive effect on the quantity and quality of the carrot harvest.

Carrots are affected by many pests, so the gardener’s task is to promptly detect pests and begin to combat them. If you approach the solution to a problem comprehensively, then the problem will never turn out to be unsolvable. The main thing is to take advantage of the advice and recommendations of specialists if you do not yet have experience in dealing with such insects.

SUPER REMEDY FOR CARROT FLIES! DOUBLE PROTECTION!

Recommendations and advice from experienced gardeners on how to grow the best harvest

Every experienced gardener has 10-20 tips on how to get the best carrot harvest. Here are the main ones:

In the spring, before sowing, the beds are not only dug up, but also furrowed to make the soil more lush. Carrots will not grow well on leveled, dense soil.
Carrots are a vegetable that is eaten even when unripe. During the first thinning, the fruit will be quite juicy and will be used in salads and soups.
To repel pests, marigolds or calendula are planted around the perimeter of the beds. Under no circumstances should parsley, dill and lettuce be planted.
Fertilize according to a strict schedule. How can you treat carrots? Nitrogenous fertilizing is applied to the soil in early June - growth will accelerate and the carrots will hurt less. The next fertilizer is phosphorus, so that the root crop becomes stronger, sweeter, harder and does not dry out. Potassium fertilizer is applied in the middle of growth. The carrots will have a mild taste and will retain freshness for a long time.