Currants and gooseberries in autumn - proper care and preparation for winter


Fragrant and very healthy black currant is rich in ascorbic acid and P-active substances. 300 mg of vitamin C per 100 g of substance is not the limit, but the norm for a healthy person is only 100 mg. P-active substances are no less important - they are responsible for the condition of capillaries; in currants their amount can reach 1 g per 100 g of substance. This berry is perfectly stored without heat treatment, simply ground with sugar, while the loss of valuable substances is minimal.

Many gardeners pay attention to this shrub only before harvesting. But treating black currants in the fall against pests and diseases and proper preparation for winter is the key to plant health in the next season, and, therefore, abundant fruiting. You need to carry out the whole range of activities.

Pruning black currants in autumn

Black currant in autumn.. Pruning the bush
Due to its biological characteristics, black currant is a short-lived plant. It bears fruit mainly on annual growths. Starting from the fourth year of the shoot’s life, they decrease, the yield falls, and the berries become smaller.

Advice! To prevent the bush from aging, you need to cut out shoots older than 3-4 years, then the plant will have the strength to grow young.

Why is it better to prune black currants in autumn? In the spring, it begins its growing season very early; you simply may not have time to rejuvenate the bush before the buds open. And after it, pruning cannot be done - the plant will weaken, which will certainly affect the harvest. You should not do this in the second half of summer, except perhaps pinch the tops - the currants will still need leaves and shoots to accumulate nutrition in the roots, this will help the plant to successfully overwinter. The best time for autumn pruning is after the leaves fall, but before the first frost. In the spring, shoots that are frozen and broken by snow are cut out.

How to determine what needs to be pruned? With age, the structure of the shoots changes, they become darker.

  • Zero branches or shoots of this year do not have forks.
  • There are very few of them on the shoots of the second year.
  • A branch living for three years already has lateral branches, and there are even more of them on four-year-old shoots.

It would seem that this is good, but in such branches fruiting is concentrated only at the ends, and not along the entire length, as in young growth. Therefore, without pity we get rid of:

  • from branches that grow for the fourth or fifth year;
  • from all shoots affected by diseases or pests;
  • from those that practically lie on the ground - there will be few berries on them due to lack of light.

Of the young zero shoots, it is enough to leave from 3 to 6 of the most developed ones, and also remove the rest so that the bush is not thickened. Fanaticism in pruning should not be allowed, otherwise there will be nothing to pick berries from. The approach to each plant must be individual; the harvest load depends not only on the strength of the bush, but also on the variety and on the ability of the plant to produce shoots.

  • In the group of varieties that produce many zero shoots, branching is weak. It has to be stimulated by cutting off the top. The same can be done with second-order shoots if they are longer than 25 cm.
  • Varieties that produce little or no growth do not need this operation; they already branch well. It makes sense to leave even four-year-old shoots and cut out old branches only for 5-6 years.
  • The shoots of the varieties of Altai selection are not shortened either; their main fruiting is concentrated in the middle and upper part of the bush. They begin to remove old shoots after the fourth year of their life.

Black currant in autumn.
Pruning scheme The age of the bush also affects pruning:

  • if planting a one or two-year-old bush is carried out in the fall, all branches are pruned, leaving stumps 5 cm high, each of which must have at least 2 buds, in the spring they do the same, but then in the year of planting, autumn pruning is not carried out;
  • in the second year, branches affected by pests and growing inside the bush are cut out, the number of zero shoots is normalized, if necessary;
  • starting from the third and subsequent years, standard pruning is carried out - 3 old shoots are removed, all diseased shoots and the weakest shoots are removed, leaving at least 3 of them for replacement.

Advice! A properly pruned bush should have from 10 to 15 shoots, with 2 to 4 branches of each age, but 2 more young ones than old ones.

How to prune black currants correctly in autumn?

  • Do not break branches with your hands.
  • The secateurs or loppers must be well sharpened.
  • Pruning is carried out as low as possible, preferably level with the soil, so as not to provoke the growth of tops from old branches.
  • If a branch is shortened, the cut should be 5 mm above the bud, and made at an angle of 45°.
  • The cuts are covered with garden varnish.

If the bushes were sick in the summer, you will need to disinfect the instrument after each operation - in vodka or a strong solution of potassium permanganate. You can wipe them with a cloth soaked in alcohol.

If pruning is carried out annually and according to all the rules, you can extend the life and active fruiting of the plant up to 15 years.

Features of pre-winter care

As part of autumn care, standard procedures are carried out for all fruit bushes, which include proper pruning, application of nutrients, watering and treatment against pests and diseases.

Bush pruning

The basis of autumn pruning of currant bushes is the cleaning and removal of all excess branches with shoots. At the same time, the formation of the correct crown is carried out. This procedure helps to increase crop productivity and extend the fruiting period.

The timing of pruning depends on the type of currant. For example, black ones need to be pruned immediately after harvesting, white and red ones - in the fall, when the dormant period begins.

Regardless of the varieties and types of currants, before winter pruning is carried out according to the same scheme:

  1. Using sharp garden tools, remove all injured, broken branches with shoots that show signs of disease or pest damage.
  2. Trim off all thin and weak shoots if they have a small number of branches.
  3. Also remove old branches - they are thick and have a darker shade of bark than young ones, they may even be black.
  4. Trim all branches that grow into the center of the bush and only thicken the crown.
  5. Make pruning as low as possible, without leaving stumps, as they can become sources of infection.

The main advantage of autumn pruning is that diseases and pests will not remain on the bush, and in the spring you will not have to re-process the crop.

Fertilizer application

Currant bushes that have reached 3 years of age need feeding every autumn. Before applying fertilizers, preparatory work is carried out:

  1. Remove leaves, old branches and other plant debris from around the bushes.
  2. Disinfect the soil using a solution of potassium permanganate (3 g per 10 liters of water).
  3. A solution of laundry soap (a bar of 10 liters of water) can also be used as a disinfectant.

Adding nutrients in the fall helps the currant bush prepare for the coming winter, but only if everything is done on time and correctly. At the same time, high crop yields are ensured for the next season.

Dry fertilizers are applied during digging. It is recommended to use a mixture of organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. You need to adhere to the following scheme - for one adult bush, spend 10-13 kg of humus, 130 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium sulfate.

Soil renewal and loosening

Renewing the tree trunk circle is the cleaning of the soil under the bush from fallen leaves and replacing the old mulch. This manipulation is mandatory, as it helps protect the garden from pests that can overwinter in the foliage.

The collected leaves with old mulch should be removed from the site or burned, especially if the crop was sick with something.

After completing the cleaning, shallow loosening of the soil is carried out using a fork (you can also use a hoe). You need to work at a sufficient distance from the bush so as not to accidentally injure the delicate roots of the plant.

The loosening procedure provides effective protection of the soil from freezing in winter. After completing the procedure, a not too deep hole is formed around the bush to make it easier to apply fertilizers and water. Then a new layer of mulch is laid out - at least 10 cm.

Pre-winter watering

Even in rainy autumn, pre-winter or moisture-recharging irrigation is required. Currants are very demanding of moisture and cannot tolerate long dry periods. Therefore, before a long winter, you need to saturate the plant with the necessary amount of moisture.

At the end of September, currants begin active growth and development of the root system. That is why watering is of great importance during this period.

Currants are watered taking into account the following proportions - from 30 to 50 liters of water are consumed per adult bush (the volume of watering directly depends on the age of the crop). The soil should be well saturated with moisture to a depth of at least 40 cm. After watering, a layer of mulch is laid out to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.

Sheltering bushes for the winter

To preserve the bush and prevent the branches from breaking, it is necessary to carry out proper pre-winter preparation of the currants: tilt the branches and cover the bushes.

Currants are among the cold-resistant crops and can easily tolerate frosts down to -25°C. But if the mark on the thermometer drops below, additional shelter is required, otherwise the branches will begin to die, which will negatively affect fruiting.

There are several relatively convenient and effective ways to protect currant bushes from frost:

  • Gather the branches into one bunch and tie a brick or large stone to them. Bend the branches, but do not twist them so that they do not break. Carry out this procedure in late October, when the branches are still quite flexible and do not resist twisting.
  • Drive a stick into the center of the bush and tie all the stems to it, wrap it with agrofibre (you can use another type of insulation).
  • Tilt the branches towards the ground and dig in with soil, which will act as a natural and effective insulation. In such a shelter, currants can easily withstand frosts down to -50°C.
  • Cover small bushes with burlap. When snow falls, the shelter can be completely removed.

In the spring, when the snow melts, the cover must be removed. If this is not done in time, the above-ground part of the bush will begin to rot. When the thaw begins, you need to remove all the snow from the bush, as it can turn into a heavy ice crust and injure or break the branches.

You cannot use polyethylene to cover currants, as the bush simply will not be able to breathe freely.

Treatment of the tree trunk circle, soil renewal

Black currant in autumn.
Processing the tree trunk circle Digging the tree trunk circle in the fall has both supporters and opponents. The first consider this a necessary operation to remove pest larvae, which will freeze in winter, outside. The latter are afraid of damaging the currant root system, but its root system is superficial. Therefore, any loosening should be carried out carefully - the plant needs time and effort to restore the roots. The best way is to keep the soil under a layer of mulch about 10 cm thick. Compost, straw, hay, sawdust from non-coniferous trees or foliage from healthy ornamental shrubs that have aged for six months are suitable for this.

Advice! Fruit trees are not suitable for these purposes; dangerous pests can nest in their leaves.

Caring for blackcurrants in the fall consists of replacing the layer of mulch and removing fallen leaves and twigs, which may contain pathogens and pests. But first you need to apply the necessary fertilizers, water, loosen the soil to a depth of no more than 8 cm, adding fertile soil. It is important to do this before the soil cools down too much, otherwise in the spring it will warm up more slowly and the bushes will begin to vegetate later.

Advice! The bushes are mulched with manure after stable cold weather sets in.

Bending down bush branches

To protect currants from winter drafts, professionals advise bending the branches of the bush to the ground. Then the snow will reliably cover the currants and this natural shelter will help them better withstand frosts down to -35°C. Bending down is done either with the help of heavy objects or by sprinkling with earth. In the first case, there are approximately 5 bricks per bush, or better yet, tiles or slate, placing the branches in their convex areas so as not to crush the stem.

At the same time, do not tilt all the branches in one direction so as not to damage the plant. You need to divide the entire number of branches into equal parts, wrap them with twine and distribute them around the bush, pressing them to the ground.

Moisture-recharging irrigation

Black currant in autumn.
Moisture-recharging irrigation Black currant is moisture-loving. Sufficient soil moisture is important not only during the season of active growth and fruiting, but also when the plant enters a state of winter dormancy. Why moisture at this time?

  • If the above-ground part is already ready for winter, then the suction roots still continue to actively grow. This is not possible in dry soil.
  • Moistened soil cools much more slowly, retaining heat longer, freezing gradually. It thaws just as slowly, preventing the plant from waking up during a long thaw in winter.
  • Sufficient soil moisture will save the bushes from winter drying out.

Therefore, moisture-recharging irrigation is simply necessary, especially if autumn does not indulge in rain. It is carried out with the beginning of leaf fall. Watering norms for a bush under 5 years of age are approximately 4 buckets; if it is older, it is almost twice as much. Water carefully, trying not to erode the soil. Currants growing on sand and sandy loam need moisture-recharging irrigation the most. If the soil is clayey, water rates are reduced. They are adjusted if it sometimes rains and not carried out at all in very wet autumn.

Nuances of pre-winter preparation of currants by type

The main principles of preparing currants for winter are the same. But there are slight differences depending on the specific type - black, red or white currant.

Black currant

In the fall, you need to perform sanitary and formative pruning for black currants. During the rejuvenation of the bush, all branches 5 years old and older are cut out.

To enhance branching, shorten branches by at least a third of their length. When the shoots are rationed, no more than 8-10 branches should remain.

Red and white currants

In autumn, a formative type of pruning is carried out. The category of old includes branches 6-9 years old and older.

The peculiarity of red currants is the formation of a large number of fruits at the tops of the branches. It is not recommended to greatly shorten the shoots after sanitary pruning, as this will sharply reduce the yield of the bush.

After cleaning, 10-14 shoots should remain on the red and white currant bush. This is the optimal amount needed to rejuvenate the bush and stimulate productivity in the new season.

Top dressing

Even though the growing season is over, the plants still need food. How to feed blackcurrants in the fall? Any fertilizers containing nitrogen, both mineral and organic, are strictly unsuitable: young shoots may begin to grow, which will not ripen before frost and will die. The plant will waste its energy and will not prepare for winter. But superphosphate - 2 tbsp. l. for a middle-aged bush and 1 tbsp. l. sulfate, but not potassium chloride, will increase frost resistance. For adult bushes, the norm is doubled.

Fertilizers are scattered in the bite area and loosened shallowly. Feeding black currants in the fall also includes adding ash - one glass per adult bush. This is not only a source of potassium, but also a way to reduce the acidity of the soil, which this plant does not like to exceed. The easiest way is to mix it with the soil that is poured under the bushes.

Processing currants in winter

This treatment is called late winter. And in some regions it is carried out in early spring. When the snow has not yet melted, you should free the branches of the plant from adhering snow so that it does not damage them when it melts. Then, while the buds have not yet awakened, the owners of the currant bushes water with hot water, almost boiling water (up to 80°C). This awakens the plant from hibernation, increases immunity and, most importantly, kills bud mites, aphids and clears fungal diseases.

Did you know? The bud mite overwinters in currant branches, and high-temperature water signals it that it is warming up and it wakes up. But since in winter there is still no food for the pest in the form of plant juices, and the air temperature is too low, it dies.

This method has proven its effectiveness for decades. The main thing is not to forget about caution when working with boiling water: use a reliable garden watering can, take care of your hands and do not heat the water above 90 degrees, so as not to harm the plant.

Treatment against pests and diseases

Black currant in autumn.
Treatment against diseases and pests This event is of particular importance - if the bushes were sick, it could happen again next season. How to process black currants in the fall? Disease prevention:

  • in order to prevent powdery mildew in the next season, the bushes and the ground under them are sprayed with copper-containing preparations - a solution of copper sulfate with a concentration of 1%, Bordeaux mixture with the same concentration, this remedy is also effective against septoria;
  • Fungicides will help defeat anthracnose - “Acrobat”, “Ridomil”;
  • to avoid columnar and goblet rust, use “Previkur”, “Topaz”, Bordeaux mixture with a concentration of 1%; Advice! Remove the sedge growing near the bushes - the fungus that causes the disease goblet rust overwinters on it;
  • to avoid terry, cut out all branches infested with bud mites; its presence can be detected by swollen buds;
  • To prevent nectar drying of shoots, remove all damaged shoots with dots and tubercles of orange and then black color.

What to do to prevent pests:

  • the currant glass makes passages inside the wood, which leads to the death of the branch; you can notice a diseased shoot when pruning along the black hole inside - such a shoot is cut off without leaving a stump, the cut must be disinfected with a fungicide;
  • Digging and turning over the layer will help against spider mites;
  • Spraying with folk remedies is also effective - infusion of garlic, onion, wormwood, and tobacco peels.

Treatments should be carried out when almost all the leaves have fallen off. The weather should be dry, without wind, not hot and not too cold. If these conditions are met, the means used are most effective.

Common mistakes gardeners make

When preparing berry bushes for winter, inexperienced gardeners often make mistakes:

  • fresh manure is applied under the bushes in the fall - this can only be done in winter, when plant growth stops and cold weather sets in;
  • large quantities of organic fertilizers are applied to the bushes - the plant actively grows greenery and does not have time to properly prepare for the cold;
  • breaking off or pruning branches with a blunt instrument - such a plant will weaken, will not tolerate frost well and will be more susceptible to attacks by pests.

An experienced gardener will tell you about preparing currants for winter in the following video:

Proper care and preparation of currant bushes for winter will help you get a bountiful harvest of delicious berries in the new season. In autumn, bushes need to be pruned, watered, fertilized, protected from diseases and pest attacks, and prepared for the coming cold weather.

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Preparing bushes for winter

Blackcurrant has good winter hardiness and in most regions of our country does not need special shelter. But a snowless, frosty winter can greatly damage the bushes. It is impossible to predict the weather in advance, so it is better to take preventative measures.

  • Insulate the root zone with mulching.
  • Collect nearby branches of the bush into bunches and bend them to the surface of the ground, covering them with a board or plywood and securing it with a stone or brick, but not with a metal object.
  • Where frosts below 35 degrees occur annually, and there is not enough snow to completely cover the bushes, you will have to cover the branches bent to the ground with a layer of earth at least 10 cm thick. Such a shelter is guaranteed to protect the branches from freezing.
  • In regions where there is a lot of snow, the bushes are simply completely covered with it.

All insulation measures must begin when the leaf fall has completely ended and slight frosts have set in, otherwise the branches may dry out.

Properly processed and pruned, fed and covered in autumn, currants will give a decent harvest next year.

Some useful tips from experts

When preparing currant varieties for the winter, you need to remember some basic nuances, the observance of which will help novice gardeners properly prepare the berry garden for the coming cold weather.

Pruning of bushes is carried out only with well-sharpened and disinfected tools. After cutting thick branches, the cut points should be covered with garden varnish.

Preparing currant bushes for winter. Warnings and Tips - Video

In autumn, only fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus compounds are applied to currants. Nitrogen can no longer be added at this time, so as not to provoke an increase in vegetative mass. Fertilizers containing nitrogen are stopped applied to currant bushes in the last ten days of August.

After the onset of cold weather, fresh mullein or chicken droppings can be added to the soil under the currants, which will practically decompose over the winter and become a good fertilizer for these plants from the beginning of spring.

When preparing bushes for winter, bend the stems to the ground carefully.

. And this procedure is carried out before the onset of cold weather, while the shoots are still bending well. They can be secured in this position with tiles or pieces of broken brick.

You can also use soil to cover the shoots by spreading the stems bent to the soil. This shelter allows currant bushes to calmly survive frosts down to -35 degrees Celsius.

You can cover the bushes on top with any non-woven fabric that allows air to pass well to the branches. Any insulation can be placed between the material and the branches; in this case, currants can survive frosts down to -50 degrees Celsius.

If you take into account all the nuances and properly prepare the currant bushes for winter, then next year it will certainly please its owners with high yields.

Digging the soil

Proper preparation of a currant bush for winter also includes digging up the soil. It would seem, why such manipulation, and even before winter. In fact, the benefits of autumn digging are simply incredible. After all, with the help of digging, you can destroy entire colonies of parasites overwintering under the top layer of soil.

After the area has been dug up, you need to thoroughly mulch each bush. For these purposes, you can prepare a special product that will not only protect the root from freezing, but also feed the culture with useful components.

So, you can prepare nutritious mulch using the following components:

  1. Take peat, compost and pine sawdust in equal parts.
  2. Mix everything well.
  3. Spread around the trunk in a layer of at least 10 cm.

The mulch mixture will help protect the roots even in the most severe frosts. It will warm the bush and maintain optimal temperature until spring.

If the currants are frozen and begin to dry out

The results of wintering shrubs depend on several factors. Firstly, it depends on when the frosts began. Secondly, how effectively the preparation was carried out. Currants may freeze and dry out. If, nevertheless, the plant has suffered from severe climate changes, then there is no need to panic, since in most cases it can be saved.

Signs

The following signs will help indicate a frost-damaged plant:

  • frozen shoots are painted in dark shades;
  • frozen bark dies, its color changes to dark brown or brown;
  • frost holes (longitudinal cracks) appear on thick branches;
  • frozen roots become dark.

Can currants dry out or freeze - how to save the bush in winter

The effectiveness of resuscitation procedures depends on the degree of currant freezing. To do this, you need to cut a 3-year-old branch and put it in water (in a warm room) for 4 days.

If the plant is not severely damaged by frost, then after 4 days the cut on the branch will turn light green and the buds will begin to swell. If the damage is severe, the dark shoot will not change color and buds will not form on it.

The degree of injury can be determined in the spring or early summer.

Resuscitation measures if the plant begins to dry out:

  • trim shoots damaged by frost;
  • treat the sections with “Garden Var”;
  • water generously with plain water (without adding mineral or nutritional compounds);
  • Place a layer of humus near the tree trunk.

In the future, the injured currants require careful care - frequent weeding and loosening of the soil, timely watering and application of nutritional supplements. Find out how to treat brown spots on currant leaves at this link.

Fertilizer application

First you need to prepare and clean the soil around the bush from old mulch and leaves, which are a breeding ground for pests, fungal and viral diseases.

The leaves will need to be burned or placed in a compost heap located away from the berry bushes.

To disinfect the soil, you can use solutions of the following drugs:

  • copper sulfate;
  • 0.3% copper oxychloride solution;
  • potassium permanganate;
  • 1% Bordeaux mixture.

If you spray the currant bush generously with a solution of carbamide (urea) before the leaves fall, you can get rid of many bacteria and fungi. To prepare it, you will need to dissolve 100 grams of urea in 10 liters of water.

It is necessary to clear the soil near the bush from old mulch and leaves, which are a breeding ground for pests, fungal and viral diseases

After cleaning the soil from organic remains and disinfecting it, you can proceed to digging. If you do this before frost, you can get rid of many pests that overwinter in the top layer of soil.

Digging is carried out with a garden fork. It should be combined with the addition of 10 kg of organic matter. Light soils can be “fluffed up” with special rippers.

Directly near the base of the bush, soil can be dug to a depth of 5-6 cm, along the perimeter - up to 15 cm. It is important not to damage the roots.

If the soil is dense, its lumps need to be crushed with a pitchfork and rake. Next, the soil can be disinfected again by spraying it with one of the previously described solutions.

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is done before digging, along with it, or the fertilizer is scattered around the bush before precipitation, embedding it into the soil with a ripper or rake. In autumn, only phosphorus and potassium can be added to the soil.

Superphosphate (50-80 grams) can be used as phosphorus fertilizer. Potassium sulfate (20-40 grams) is also added.

Wood ash contains potassium, phosphorus and many other elements, so it can replace or supplement mineral fertilizers. During digging, you will need to add 100 grams (250 ml) of the substance under the bush. It can be diluted in water and immediately poured over the soil.

The ash must be crushed before adding to the soil. It cannot be used together with nitrogenous fertilizers: urea, litter, manure. Ash can be stored for many years, but only in a dry state, for example, in a closed jar.

Before digging, it is necessary to add wood ash, which contains phosphorus and potassium, to the soil.

Fertilized and loosened soil should be covered with fresh mulch: compost, sunflower husks, rotted sawdust or leaves of non-fruit crops that will not contain pests that threaten currants. It will save the bush from frost and prevent rapid loss of moisture from the soil.

Mulch should be spread before the soil freezes. Otherwise, the protective layer forms a kind of refrigerator, which will interfere with the heating of the soil during warming.

When snow falls, you need to throw it on and around the berry bush and lightly compact it. In its absence, the plant can be sprinkled with forest leaves, pine needles or covered with agrofibre.

Despite the fact that currants are an unpretentious crop, they will not refuse fertilizers. And if you feed the bush correctly, it will reward you with good yield in return. It is recommended to fertilize from the end of summer. This procedure is performed as follows:

  1. First, clear the entire front garden of old leaves and branches, if no cleaning activities were carried out during pruning.
  2. Then it is necessary to carry out the so-called soil disinfection. To do this, you can use a solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of laundry soap.
  3. After the manipulations to disinfect the land have been completed, you can begin adding phosphorus and potassium substances. It is worth highlighting that they should be applied at the beginning of October, so that this feeding will be enough for the bush until May.
  4. Further, with the onset of November, you can also feed the currants with rotted bird droppings, which will not only nourish the root system, but also protect it from the most severe frosts.

When choosing products for autumn feeding, be sure to pay attention to ensure that the products do not contain nitrogen components. The fact is that nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass in currant bushes.

This remedy is very important for this culture. But only if it is applied in spring or early summer. But before wintering, such a component will do more harm than good, since the plant can begin to grow. Therefore, always take this point into account when choosing a fertilizer.

We suggest you read How to cook frozen pink salmon

Watering and loosening the soil

Caring for currants in the fall means regular watering. In order for the shoots to set buds and then easily overwinter, it is necessary to provide a large amount of moisture. After pruning, the bush should be shed with warm water. Black currants will require about 4 buckets of water, and white and red currants - 2 buckets.

It is recommended to loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle. This will improve access to oxygen to the root system. There is no need to loosen the soil too deep; just go with a hoe or chopper, this will help remove weeds.

To avoid disturbing the roots, you need to be careful not to loosen the soil near the trunk. You can make small grooves to make fertilizing easier later.

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