Autumn planting of grapes by cuttings - briefly about the stages

Is it possible to plant grapes from cuttings in the fall?

In autumn, you can plant seedlings grown from grape cuttings. You need to have time to plant the seedlings in the ground, two weeks before the first frost.

At this time, the earth has not yet had time to cool; with a significant drop in temperature, the earth remains warm and will not allow young sprouts to freeze. Their roots can bask in the warmth for a long time. The earth is in no hurry to release the heat accumulated over the summer months to the cold.

When transferring a seedling from a container into the ground, a small part of the roots die. During growth, which continues into the fall, the plant restores lost roots. A well-rooted sprout will go into winter. With the onset of spring, it, along with the rest of the vines, will begin to grow in due time.

Planting holes for grapes are prepared in advance, they are filled with fertilizers and fertile soil. After the seedling is planted in a permanent place, it is watered well, after a while the root circle is mulched with humus and dry soil.

Hurry up! A significant cold snap, as well as frost, give a signal to cover the vines in winter. The seedling's sprout is still small. This allows you to put it in a plastic bottle after cutting off the bottom. Then cover it with soil, a layer of 30 cm, and put a pole so that you can find it in the spring.

Planting chibouks

Planting chubuk trees will require a lot of patience and attention, as this is not the easiest job. The future grape harvest will depend on proper planting.

Disembarkation algorithm:

1. Planting should be done in early October. You need to have time to do everything before the first frost.
2. A distance of 2.5 meters between future bushes should be maintained.
3. The minimum distance between each row is 3 m.
4. The cuttings need to be deepened into the ground and buried. The soil around it should be thoroughly compacted. It is necessary to deepen so that at least two buds remain above the soil surface.
5. A cut plastic bottle should be placed on each cutting, and then the soil should be thoroughly watered. During planting, 40 liters of water is poured into each hole.

After the water has been absorbed into the soil, you need to loosen it a little. This is necessary to restore air access into the depths. Autumn planting requires that the cuttings be immediately covered with pine needles, since the ambient temperature is already close to zero. Instead of pine needles, you can use peat or regular sawdust. For the insulation to work, the thickness of the blanket must be at least 30 cm. You need to leave a little space between the pit and the coniferous insulation.

Already in the first year of planting, a very good root system will appear on the cuttings. Next spring the plant will begin to rapidly develop from a young seedling. Now all that remains is to carry out regular maintenance of the vineyard.

Features of choosing cuttings

When purchasing cuttings, keep in mind that wherever you buy them, be it a store, nursery, market, or some other way. The very first thing you need to do is soak the cuttings and disinfect them in a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

After processing, slightly trim the cut and dip its upper part in melted paraffin. You can shorten the cut by no more than 2 mm. Grapes often get sick, and even a cutting taken from a friend should still be treated with a disinfectant for prevention.

Now you need to figure out what you should pay attention to when purchasing a cutting:

• there should be 2-3 eyes on the cutting;
• the cut should be green, without mold, but slightly dried;
• cutting length is at least 10-15 cm.

It is desirable to have a antennae on the opposite side of the eye. The presence of a tendril tells you that there is a diaphragm, which has plastic substances that promote the formation of roots.

Preparing cuttings for planting

To increase the viability of acquired cuttings, they must be soaked before planting. At room temperature they are kept in water for 3 days. It should be borne in mind that dried specimens require more time to soak.

Order first! Good results are obtained by soaking the material in a heteroauxin solution. Cuttings treated in this way are planted in the ground on the same day. They are also soaked in a solution of aloe juice and honey; these are natural stimulants and are usually used by experienced gardeners.

After treatment with stimulants, a furrow is made above the lower eye with a nail. Using scissors, scratch a 2-3 centimeter furrow. Wounds are applied to activate the cells; roots should appear in place of the furrow.

While you were carrying out all these procedures, you should have made the keels. They are made quite simply. We need to buy sawdust and prepare 2-liter plastic bottles.

Steam the sawdust with boiling water, cool and disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate, allow excess liquid to drain. Cut off the cone-shaped part of the bottle and drill a hole in the bottom to drain excess liquid. Fill the prepared container with cooled sawdust and place several cuttings there.

The most important thing is to find a suitable place for the keeler. The best place for it is near the radiator under the window. It should be +25˚С at the bottom, 5˚С less at the top.

In a moist substance and at this temperature, after 3 weeks the cuttings will develop roots. During the same time, the leaves will hatch. Please note that the roots appear first, then the leaves.

To check the appearance of roots. The bottle will have to be cut, otherwise how will you see them. The rooted cuttings are removed, the bottle is sealed with tape, and the unrooted specimens are placed there again.

Attention! Rooted cuttings are planted in pots with nutritious soil mixed with sand; for drainage, coarse sand is poured onto the bottom of the pot. Drainage is mandatory for grapes; they do not like stagnant water.

Choosing a landing site

If we are talking about planting grapes with stems in the ground in the fall, we need to choose the right place:

1. You can't plant grapevines there, the old plantation has just been uprooted. Spores of fungal and viral diseases, as well as insects, may remain in the soil. Planting can begin only after 2-3 years.
2. Ventilation is important for grapevines, so you should not plant cuttings between trees or in the shade.
3. Seedlings obtained from cuttings are planted in the direction from south to north. In this case, the vineyard will be illuminated from morning to evening, the entire plantation will receive enough heat and light.

Characteristics of the soil for planting

Before you start planting grape cuttings, decide on the location. In a plot with a large slope to the northwest or north, grapes cannot be planted. Salt marshes and wetlands are unsuitable for growing grapevines.

You have decided on the location, start preparing the soil. You need to start doing this in the summer. The future site for planting seedlings is cleared of debris and weeds and dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet.

The area is left alone until next time. The soil on the site must remain clean and loose throughout the entire time before planting.

The most desirable soil structure for grapes is fine-lumpy soil structure. The optimal ratio of heat, water and air conditions makes it ideal for the growth and fruiting of grapevines.

The coarse soil structure slows down the development of seedlings. Fruiting on such soils occurs much faster. The vine produces a cluster of small berries, very sweet, but with very little acid.

Floating soil, that is, alluvial soil, is unsuitable for vines. Such soil is usually in low areas, where water often stagnates. Grapes in such places usually become smaller and die.

Common mistakes

• One of the most common mistakes made by novice winegrowers is planting seedlings in holes that are not deep enough . The root system of such a bush is simply not able to cope with negative temperatures. The problem can be solved by transplanting the cuttings into a new hole with a depth of at least 60 cm, and preferably 80 cm.
• Choosing an unfavorable place for planting can cause a lot of problems for winegrowers. The cold, shady side of the site will lead to the formation of a weak bush or to the death of the entire vineyard. Lack of solar heat inhibits development, contributing to the formation of low-quality crops. At the same time, the clusters become small, the berries become sour and prone to peas.
• Another problem for gardeners is choosing the wrong planting material. Buying seedlings in dubious places will leave you not only without bushes, but also without money. It is important to trust specialized stores or your friends.
• Planting weak and unhealthy seedlings can lead to the death of the vineyard. It is best to prefer seedlings of elite quality or first class, in which the likelihood of survival and matching the parent plant is very high.

Now you know how to properly plant grapes in the fall. Compliance with the necessary requirements and recommendations will provide you with a rich and beautiful vineyard.

Preparation and storage of cuttings

Time doesn't wait! The primary condition when cutting cuttings in the fall is to prepare them from 100% healthy vines. Any mechanical damage to the material is not allowed.

Pruning of vines and harvesting cuttings are carried out at the same time. The time for it is the beginning of September; if you haven’t had time to prepare it, you can do it in the middle of the month. In the south of Russia, this operation is carried out in mid-October, where frosts begin late.

Visually, choose powerful, healthy shoots; it is better to look for those that bear full-sized clusters and are adapted to local climatic conditions. A prerequisite when preparing cuttings is that the vine must be fully mature.

Experienced winegrowers can determine the required qualities by touch. The vine has the color of stale straw and is immediately visible among the young growth. These are signs for experienced gardeners. These are the signs that novice gardeners will understand:

1. Dip a cut of the harvested vine into a solution of 1% iodine; if it turns dark purple, this vine is suitable for cuttings.
2. Harvesting the vine, or rather its cut remains light green, then this is not a suitable vine.
3. After culling vines that are unsuitable for maturity, it’s time to start harvesting cuttings. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the necessary requirements for the prepared material:
4. The diameter of the workpiece should be 6-7 mm (exceptions are allowed only for varieties with thin vines).
5. Cuttings prepared in the fall should be at least 65-70 cm in length. During storage they dry out, and in the future the cuts will have to be renewed.
6. Leaves and tendrils are carefully removed from the blanks and tied into bundles for further storage (hang a tag with the name of the variety on each bundle).

Create the conditions! The most important stage remains, storing the cuttings. A large number of cuttings are usually stored in prepared trenches, covered with 25 cm thick soil. This storage method is preferred by nurseries and farms that sell planting material.

For summer residents, storing cuttings in cellars or basements is quite suitable. The air temperature in the room should be from 0 to +4˚С, humidity no more than 60%, otherwise rotting of the workpieces cannot be avoided.

Before storing:

• the cuttings are saturated with moisture, the lower cut is placed in water for a day;
• disinfected by immersing the planting material in a 3% solution of copper sulfate, this will protect it from mold and provide protection from dampness.

If you have very few preparations, you can store them in a box with sand, keeping the storage temperature at +4˚C, not forgetting to moisten the sand to avoid drying out of the cuttings.

To preserve the blanks, you need to inspect them once a month; during inspection, remove any specimens you don’t like. There may be fewer of them, but they will remain healthy. Potassium permanganate easily combats mold; if it appears, rinse the workpieces in the solution and dry. But do not leave rotten cuttings, throw them away without regret.

Step-by-step instructions for autumn planting

After choosing a location and preparing the planting material, you can proceed directly to the planting procedure.

To begin with, you should prepare holes measuring about 80 x 80 cm and a depth of about 80 cm. You should dig in such a way as to collect the top soil on one side, which makes up about a third of the entire depth of the hole. The lower layers of soil are placed separately, in the opposite direction.

After this, the top layer must be mixed with 1 kg of ash, rich in potassium and phosphorus, and 0.5 kg of organic fertilizer, such as humus. The resulting nutrient mass should be poured down each hole to a depth of about 30 cm. Water generously and fill with soil again to the desired level. It is necessary to leave the holes in this form for two weeks so that the soil settles.

Seedlings or cuttings suitable for planting should be soaked in water or a humate solution for a day. This will accelerate the development of the root system and increase the survival rate of the bushes. Next, lower the planting material into the hole. Drive a peg nearby and tie the top of the shoot to it. Fill the hole with the remaining soil from the first pile.

The bottom soil from the second pile must be mixed with coarse sand or crushed stone and also poured into the hole. A small 30-centimeter mound should be formed above the ground surface. After this, each bush needs to be watered with 3 buckets of water.

Important! The cuttings should be earthed up and placed so that the fruiting buds remain above the surface of the ground.

The final stage is mulching the soil around the bushes. This is done using onion peels or cut grass. A three-centimeter layer of mulch is placed evenly at the base of the bush to retain moisture. It is recommended to repeat the procedure after each watering. To avoid the death of young plants, they should be covered for the winter.

How to plant cuttings in the fall

It is not recommended to plant cuttings in the soil in the fall; planting can be done if you have some unforeseen circumstances that prevent you from doing this in the spring. Cuttings planted in the fall will need to create significant insulation.

Get started! The best time to plant cuttings is October, but better focus on the weather and its forecast. Planting must be carried out a month before the onset of sub-zero temperatures. Cuttings and seedlings of grapes are also planted in the fall by those who do not have the opportunity to plant them in the spring.

Soil for grapes

Planting grapes from cuttings in the fall can be done in any soil, since grapes are an unpretentious plant in this regard. Although some nuances still exist. Table and dessert grape varieties love different soils and are planted differently.

If you decide to propagate table grape varieties with chibouks, it is best to plant them in humus-rich soil on the slopes of hills. Moreover, the groundwater in this place should be at a depth of three meters.

Vineyards thrive on rocky and dark soil. It warms up better because it attracts the sun's rays more strongly.

Types of soils that grapes love:

• clayey;
• weakly carbonate or carbonate;
• light-colored sandstone;
• black soil;
• red soil;
• sandy loam soil;
• gray soils;
• light and dark chestnut soils.

In a word, the soil should be light, breathable and fertile. During the growing season, after you plant the grape cuttings, the soil must be constantly loosened.

Planting holes or trenches are prepared in advance and fertilizer is added to them. Before planting the cuttings, the soil must settle well.

How to plant cuttings without roots in the ground

In this case, they dig a trench the width of a spade bayonet, the depth is the same, maybe a little deeper. A bucket of humus is used per meter of trench. They loosen it one more bayonet and cover it with soil.

The cuttings are stuck into the ditch at a distance of 15 cm from each other at the end of the work, and the trench is spilled with water. Planting of cuttings in a school is carried out with an inclination to the south. The distance between the rows should be at least 40 cm. Loosening and weeding of seedlings in the future should not cause inconvenience to the people working here.

A specially allocated plot of land for growing seedlings from cuttings is called a shkolka.

school for planting grape cuttings

After planting the workpieces, arches of at least 40 cm are placed above each row and polyethylene covers are pulled on top. It will serve as protection from wind and frost for the cuttings.

In the spring, with the onset of above-zero temperatures during the day, the shelter must be opened to ventilate the plantings. When a constant above-zero temperature sets in, the plantings are completely freed from shelter.

You can plant cuttings in a different way; this method is more suitable for garden plots. I plant two cuttings in pre-prepared planting holes, in case one of them does not take root. If both survive, simply plant them out. Plant the cuttings 2-3 buds deep, that is, they should be immersed in the soil, and only one remains above it.

Covering the plantings is done with earth, spreading it in a layer of up to half a meter. Combined backfilling in layers is also allowed:

• loose soil (25 cm);
• foliage (12 cm);
• soil (25 cm).

Insulate! In the spring, the pile is removed and a temporary greenhouse is built in its place, not forgetting to ventilate from time to time and acclimate the plantings to the environment.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Autumn planting of grapes from cuttings has several advantages. Therefore, many summer residents try to do all the work during this period of the year. Among the advantages are:

• The growing season and active development of the root begins in early spring. This allows you to accelerate the development of grapes by about 1 season.
• In autumn, the choice of seedlings at gardening markets is much greater than in early spring.
• It is much easier to plant plants in the autumn, since the soil is not yet frozen, there is more time, the weather is satisfactory, and the ground is not swampy.
• The soil is saturated with moisture throughout the entire period. In spring, the ground is wet only in the first month. This allows you to avoid watering the seedlings after planting.

It is because of these factors that the autumn planting method is often chosen. But this method also has its drawbacks. Among them are:

• It is necessary to select only high quality material for planting. By winter, you should not plant weak and damaged sprouts. For this period, only the best cuttings are suitable, which will definitely take root and be able to withstand frost.
• Planting grape cuttings in the fall can give absolutely no guarantees. Only during the spring growing season can you understand whether the plant has taken root.

Also, in some cases, frost may occur unexpectedly. Because of this, it is undesirable to plant grape cuttings in the fall in the northern regions.

How to plant cuttings in sand in spring

Rooting cuttings in sand in early spring in greenhouses, greenhouses and at home significantly increases the growing season. This method is suitable for central Russia and the Urals; summer in these regions is short and grapes often simply do not have time to go through the entire cycle in such a short period. The forcing of seedlings in greenhouses occurs within 3 months.

The vine is harvested for cuttings in October; it must be mature, then the seedlings will be strong.

Before planting, the cuttings are soaked in potassium permanganate, then they can be continued in a honey solution for 24 hours. The cuttings treated in this way are planted in sand for germination.

Containers with sand must have holes to drain excess water. Shelves with seedlings must be heated; the bottom of the vessel with the seedling must be heated 2 degrees above the ambient temperature. The air temperature in the greenhouse should be kept at + 20˚С.

It will be possible to transplant seedlings with roots of at least 3-4 cm into the nutrient medium. Before transplanting, it is advisable to treat the soil with fungicides. Watch the video to see how easy it is to grow grape seedlings from cuttings at home.

Features of planting cuttings in autumn

We must hurry! In autumn, grapes are planted from the first days of October until the ground freezes. The principle of planting is the same as in spring; in autumn it is necessary to cover the seedlings before frost. You have already learned how to cover.

The seedlings are still very tender and cannot survive frosts, which means they need to be covered very carefully. Only healthy and strong specimens are selected for planting in the ground. If they survive the winter, then after 3 years you will have powerful bushes with strong vines.

Usually, in garden plots for growing seedlings in the summer, holes are dug, an earthen mixture is prepared and 2 cuttings are planted in one hole. This is done for insurance if one of the cuttings does not take root. If both root, you will receive an additional seedling.

You can, of course, put him in school, but it will be much more troublesome. You need to dig a trench, fill it with humus, mix it, the soil for planting must be loose. Plant the cuttings in it, then you need to build a shelter from wind and frost.

Important nuances

If you want to get cuttings yourself, you should take care of healthy planting material long before planting. Chubuki are cut from mother bushes that have shown themselves to be excellent during the fruiting period, without the slightest signs of disease.

Cuttings with mechanical damage or elongated internodes should not be used for propagation. Thinned and twisted planting material is also discarded.

Mother bushes are chosen in advance; you can even make marks on them so that in the fall the branches do not get confused due to the rapid growth of the vine. They begin to prepare the cuttings when the leaves fall off the grape bushes. Cuttings or chubuks are prepared from fruited grapes.

How to determine if a vine is ripe:

• branches become light brown;
• a green shoot, if taken in your hand, will be much cooler than a vine ready for cutting;
• mature cuttings placed in a 2% iodine solution will change its color: the solution will turn blue. Fat shoots are not suitable for cutting cuttings, since they are incapable of producing a root system.
• cuttings must be at least 10 cm in diameter, with 3 or 4 live buds;
• The length of the chibouk is approximately half a meter.

Planting cuttings in autumn in Moscow

Planting grapevines in the fall in Moscow and the Moscow region is done the same way as in the spring. For viticulture, this region is considered a northern region and special early-ripening varieties are needed here.

Most of the early and very early varieties of the European collection were created for cover viticulture in the southern regions. Such varieties are not suitable for the Moscow region. To set buds, grapes require a temperature of +25 to +35˚С, and in the Moscow region in July the average is only +18˚С; night and day +21+23˚С.

Choose! Fortunately, the early varieties bred by local amateur breeders, which have excellent taste qualities that are in no way inferior to European varieties, help out. Their growing season takes just 110 days, and the temperature is quite suitable in the Moscow region.

Let me introduce the best varieties for this region:

1. Russian Corinka and Decorative.
2. Queen of Vineyards and Muromets.
3. Frankenthal and Northern Early.
4. Beauty of the Don and Early Russian.
5. Alyoshenkin and Michurinsky.

This is how many varieties there are for growing excellent grapes in this “northern” region by European standards. You can purchase the listed varieties from viticulture experts. At experimental stations and reference points of horticulture.

Chubuki can be stored in plastic bags filled with steamed sawdust or sand. In March, you will need to take out the cuttings purchased in the fall and germinate them, and plant them in a permanent place in the spring. You have already become familiar with the technology of preparing cuttings for germination, so there is no point in repeating the same thing several times.

The only thing you should pay attention to is that the cuttings need to be watered and sprayed every day. The plant loves water, but does not tolerate stagnant water. Don't forget about the holes to drain excess liquid.

After the chibouks have acquired roots, they should be transplanted into nutritious soil consisting of sand and peat in equal proportions. It doesn’t matter what container to transplant into; to save money, you can transplant into the same bags.

Provide sprouted seedlings with light and warmth. Start feeding, already in the first week, feed with a weak solution of complete mineral fertilizer.

Prepare! In the Moscow region, a special soil composition is prepared for grapes; unfortunately, without this it is impossible to grow good grapes.

To prepare a loose and permeable soil structure, mix in equal parts:

• loamy and clayey soils;
• sand and broken bricks;
• humus and gravel;
• add superphosphate and ash;
• bone meal and crushed bones.

From the resulting substrate, ridges are then made, 35 cm high and 1 m wide. Then the seedlings are planted to a depth of 20 cm, the distance between them should be about a meter, between the rows no more than 1.5-2 meters, this is due to the climatic conditions of the region. Caring for and forming a bush and rationing the yield with this planting scheme are much more comfortable.

Preparing the planting hole

Grape stems are planted in holes or trenches. When digging, the soil is thrown on both sides. In one direction the top, with fertile soil from a depth of no more than 30 cm. The rest of the soil is laid on the other parapet. It is then generally removed from the site. The width of the trench should be at least 80-90 centimeters.

If planting grape cuttings in the fall is carried out in holes, then they should be 80x80 cm. The depth of the trench and hole is also at least 80 cm. The place where the cuttings are planted should be spacious, since growing grapes have a powerful root system, it should not feel cramped.

The bottom is covered with drainage (fine crushed stone can be used); at least two buckets of humus and mineral fertilizers must be laid on top.

Humus and fertilizers are mixed, and a layer of fertile soil, previously removed from the pit, is poured on top. The fact is that it is impossible to plant chibuki directly on humus. They will get burns and the development of the root system will not occur.

Treatment of grapes with remedies from a home medicine cabinet

Have you treated plants with iodine? I didn't have to! But when treating grapes, iodine is often used not only for treatment, but also as a prophylactic agent.

In cool and rainy summers, grapes are affected by mildew, and to prevent the disease, the vines are sprayed with an iodine solution. If you don’t spray, you’ll have to fight the disease later with chemicals, which will not benefit the grapes or your body.

Take note! Iodine is useful for grapes, it enriches the berries, and their taste only benefits from this. Many foods that people eat contain very little iodine; its deficiency has a bad effect on your well-being.

Still, you should not overdo it with spraying plants with its solution; the grapes will not benefit from such care. With an excess amount of iodine, grapes significantly slow down their growth. Please note! In everything we must observe moderation.

A preventive solution for mildew is prepared as follows:

• 1 liter of milk;
• 19 drops of iodine;
• 9 tablets of trichopolum;
• 9 liters of water.

Mix all the components and spray the grape bushes with this solution every 11 days.

Don't forget about baking soda. Its solution rejuvenates plants and fights diseases. Spraying the vines while the grapes are ripening increases the sugar content of the berries. In addition, a side effect has been noticed, do not worry, it is positive, weeds disappear in the tree trunk circle. Here are some recipes for treating grapes with soda.

Soda from oidium

Dissolve 4 tsp in a bucket of water. baking soda, 19 gr. soap, preferably baby soap, mix well. Spray before flowering, then at intervals of a week, 3 more times.

Treatment of grapes from gray rot

Apply the composition when the plant is slightly damaged. Take 70 grams per bucket of water. soda, spray the bushes with this solution.

Add 2 tsp per liter of water. soda, vegetable oil, dishwashing detergent, mix and spray with a spray bottle in dry, cloudy weather.

It will come in handy! These simple techniques are very effective in combating many grape diseases and should be adopted by gardeners. Who needs grapes stuffed with chemicals on their own table?

For personal consumption, interact with chemicals as little as possible. Take simple, affordable medications from your home medicine cabinet.