Rose budding: transplanting a bud from a varietal plant to a rootstock

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Requirements for the rootstock. Review of species forms most often used as a basis for grafting

Experts have experimentally determined that in our geographical conditions the best type of rose for rootstock is the dog rose (Rosa canina L.).

When gardeners buy a new rose bush, they don’t always think about how it came into being. But most modern varieties are propagated by grafting. This is the connection of two plants by fusion. In this duet, the graft is the varietal part of the future plant, and the root and part of the stem belong to the rootstock. The key to successful cultivation in this way is:

• high-quality root system,
• compatibility of rootstock and scion,
• maximum coincidence of fused plant parts in the cambium area.

Cambium is the tissue between the bark and wood. It is she who is capable of forming callus, which combines the scion and rootstock into one plant.

In addition to the main type, breeders have created several forms:

• Rosa canina Pfander,
• Rosa canina f. Pollmeriana,
• Rosa canina Inermis,
• Among the forms of Rosa canina, f. is recognized as the best. Shmid`s Ideal . _ _

Another type of multi-flowered rose hip is Rosa multiflora. This type is more often used in areas with warm climates.

Michurin's breeding school used a very tall species for propagation - the leucantha rose ( Rosa . leucantha Bieb.) with thick shoots and a small number of thorns.

Requirements for types and varieties of roses suitable for rootstock. Their positive and negative sides

To form a trunk for roses, it is better to choose forms of rose hips that do not produce root shoots.
Rootstocks are propagated by seeds. In this regard, the selected variety and form must have good germination.

For the rootstock, it is important that the variety grafted onto it in the future has a powerful, well-branched root system. Resistance to adverse conditions, in particular to diseases and pests, is important.

Thus, to obtain the base material for grafting, choose the types and forms of rose hips that:

• grow well in local climatic conditions,
• produce abundant harvests,
• their seeds have high germination rates.

And finally, the most important property is to form tissues that engraft the grafted kidneys.

Domestic selection practices grafting of varieties

• into the root collar of the rootstock (rose hips). This produces a traditional bush form (

Features of growing seedlings for rootstock. Selection of material and sowing methods

Obtaining a high-quality rootstock has its secrets. It is important to take them into account so that the future grafting becomes a gorgeous rose.

Experienced gardeners know the answers to such questions.

Features of spring vaccination

When carrying out spring budding, mature buds are used that have survived the winter and are ready to germinate this year. Therefore, spring budding of roses is called budding with a sprouting eye.

In this case, cuttings that were harvested in the fall are most often used. It is also allowed to use scion material from plants that have been able to overwinter well. Cuttings that have been stored in the refrigerator all winter must be carefully examined. All diseased, dried out and rotten specimens are discarded.

Spring vaccination is carried out according to the generally accepted scheme. Immediately upon completion, it is necessary to trim the rootstock. The cutting height should be 1/3 of the length of the shoot.

The only indicator of budding survival is the germination of the eye. If this does not happen, with the onset of summer you can vaccinate again.

Grafting a rose onto a rosehip in the spring means maintaining the binding for a year. To prevent the formation of harmful constrictions as the plant grows and develops, it is necessary to use elastic material.

Optimal conditions for growing seedlings with and without picking

Modern materials and technologies make it possible to grow rose rootstocks like ordinary seedlings. In addition to traditional methods of sowing in open ground, greenhouse plantings have recently been often used.

To do this, the seeds are stratified for one and a half to two months and sown in November in a cassette box or peat tablets.

If a lot of planting material is needed, the seeds are sown in open ground in

Seeds are sown in grooves 1.5–2 cm deep, with a width of 15–20 cm between them. These dimensions are convenient for further care and picking of seedlings.

specially prepared place.

Choose a well-lit area protected from the wind, carefully select weeds, dig up and add improving components to the soil:

• in clayey soils add coarse sand or lowland peat for loosening.
• Sandy soils are structured by adding chernozem or lowland peat with organic fertilizers.

The result should be sandy loam or light loam with a neutral reaction. This is the optimal medium for sowing rose seeds onto rootstock.

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Growing rose hips

Reproduction of roses, like other plants, is carried out sexually or asexually (vegetatively) in several ways. The main method of propagating roses in a nursery is budding.

In most cases, to obtain rosehip rootstocks, seeds of a common species are used - the canina rose - R. canina. A good or completely benign rosehip intended for rootstock production must have the following properties.

1. It must be completely winter-hardy in the area for which it is prescribed, drought-resistant where required, and completely immune to fungal diseases.
2. It should produce shoots or branches that are, if possible, devoid of thorns or have the latter to a minimal extent, and when grown into trunks, form the latter in the shortest possible time. In other words, it must have the fastest and strongest growth possible, combining this property with maximum frost resistance.
3. It should have as smooth and straight a root collar as possible, which greatly facilitates grafting and especially budding when obtaining bush, i.e., low-grafted roses.

Some authors have also expressed an insistent wish that the ideal rosehip, when sown in the fall or with timely stratification, sprouts in the first spring, and not in the second, and does not have to keep the seeds sanded or surrounded by moist soil for two winters and one summer between them, as is the case is now being practiced. However, in the author’s opinion, this nature of seed germination and similar germination in the second spring are generally characteristic of many tree and shrub species by nature, and it is unlikely that it will be easy to change this property of rosehip seeds at our request.

There is, however, a statement that if the seeds, or, more precisely, rose hips to obtain seeds, are collected not in the fall, when the fruits have already turned red, but at the end of summer, precisely at the moment when they just begin to turn red and when the woody shells of their seeds have not yet completely hardened, then such seeds, when sown in the fall, will sprout next spring, and not in a year.

Such statements, however, require thorough verification. According to the author, it is much more expedient to simply collect the next annual collection of rosehip seeds, immediately stratify them and sand them in a box, not allowing the seeds and the surrounding sand to dry out, keep them moist until the fall, when they are sown on seed beds, where seedlings will certainly will appear in sufficient abundance next spring. From the above, by the way, it follows that in our rose culture in Russia it is necessary to acquire or plant mother-seed plantings of rose hips in order to collect and obtain seeds for rootstocks that would produce rose hips that have all of the above desired properties. It’s not so difficult to do this, you just have to want it. Not much space will be required to plant such a mother-seed rosehip plantation, and our flower farms will have to do this over time. But for this it is necessary, first of all, to find the source material, i.e., an ideal rose hip with the above-described qualities - the canina rose. If desired, this is also possible in the north.

Of course, it cannot be considered normal that in order to sow and obtain rosehip rootstocks: - canina in the north, for example, in the Leningrad region, you have to take rosehip seeds from the south, where there is a lot of it, for example, from the Northern regions. Caucasus, not to mention the fact that in this case we do not know at all what seeds we are getting and what qualities the rootstocks obtained in this way will have. It would be a completely different matter if we had at our disposal everywhere, especially in the north, rose hip plantations with the required qualities and properties.

Rosehip seeds obtained in winter must, as already mentioned, be sanded (stratified). Stratification consists of taking 1 volume part of seeds to 3 parts of wet sand, then sand and seeds are mixed well and evenly.

The seeds sanded in this way are placed in a cool place. It is advisable to bury the seeds in the snow until spring. It is necessary that the seeds do not dry out, and therefore in the spring, when the snow melts, the dishes with the seeds are not buried deeply in the still damp soil so that the seeds remain moist all the time.

It is unacceptable to sow rosehip seeds without stratification to obtain rootstocks in the first spring, since the seeds will not germinate then and there will be no seedlings until next spring. In the fall, before the onset of frost, the seeds are sown on seed beds. In this case, the sowing is done relatively densely, keeping in mind the subsequent green picking and the fact that the seeds with such somewhat dense sowing will better or more easily lift the layer of earth above them when they emerge. The author generally does not admit at all to obtaining seedlings or rosehip rootstocks without green picks. In fact, what is the point of getting rosehip seedlings with poor roots or a single root going deep, when at relatively low costs (for green picking) you can get first-rate rosehip seedlings with good branched fibrous roots.

We call green picking the transplantation of newly emerged small green seedlings onto picking ridges, which have managed to develop, in addition to the cotyledons, only one or two leaves. The sooner such a seedling is picked, the better.

When green picking occurs in spring, the tip of the root is shortened, which causes the root to develop branches, forming a fibrous root system. At the same time, seedlings planted during green picking at an equal distance from each other receive sufficient area for development.

Careful, timely preparation of the soil for picking ridges, as well as the application of organic fertilizers, are absolutely necessary.

The beds for pricked rosehip seedlings are prepared as is generally customary in the area. On ridges, seedlings are planted not in longitudinal, but in transverse rows, row from row at a distance of 20 cm, and seedling from seedling in rows at a distance of at least 5 cm. Watering is required only the first time. Rosehip seedlings usually tolerate replanting or green picking well.

Maintenance during the summer consists of loosening the surface of the ridges and removing weeds, and, if necessary, watering. The ridges remain in this form until the spring of the following summer and autumn, when the same care for the seedlings is applied as in the first year. In the autumn of the second year, the seedlings grown on the ridge will be two years old, and then they usually must be dug up and sorted in the fall, and, if necessary, sent to another place in proper packaging.

Rosehip seedlings are usually not left on the ridge for more than two years, and this is usually not necessary, because by the autumn of the second year, even in the north, these seedlings reach such a size that it is impossible to leave them longer on the ridges, but give them when picking or planting on the ridge there are large ones against the shown distance there is no calculation. Here in St. Petersburg, on nutritious soil, we always get fairly good two-year-old wild rose hips, some of which can be used for grafting into the neck in winter, and some for summer budding.

Two-year-old seedlings dug out of the ridges in the fall are sorted by size and vigor into three grades: first, second and third. Weaker specimens can be planted again in the ridges until they reach a size sufficient for improvement. The strongest plants are selected, if necessary, to obtain trunks. For this purpose, selected specimens are planted in a special quarter, and the greater the distance between seedlings in this quarter, the better. But since you usually have to save space, it is clear that too large distances between individual bushes are not acceptable here either.

To obtain strong trunks from rose hips after planting, no cutting or removal of branches should be done; on the contrary, the more of the latter remain and the stronger the bush, the better. The longer the rosehip bush sits in one place, the stronger, thicker, and most importantly, higher the annual shoots—future trunks—can be obtained. On average, to obtain standard shoots, a rosehip bush must remain in one place after transplantation for three years. But, in general, this period greatly depends on local conditions.

When the rosehip bushes grow shoots strong enough for trunks by autumn, only one strongest shoot is left on the roots of the bush; all the rest are removed.

We can approximately assume that the normal length of a real standard for obtaining high standard roses is no less than 1.25 m, a half standard is 80-90 cm, and below 80 cm there will be a low standard.

Speaking about standard rose hips, it should be said here that in St. Petersburg it has long been customary to use rose hips with 3-4 branches or shoots coming from the root for rootstocks, grafting them in the winter in a greenhouse at a height of 20-25 cm. To obtain such branched or several stemmed rootstocks, it is better Just plant annual canina and after two years you can expect the desired result on good soil.

I had to observe that rosehip seedlings are sometimes affected by linen in the first year. This must always be kept in mind when growing rose hips on rootstocks and, just in case, have in stock means to combat linen and other diseases and pests.

As for the choice of rosehip variety - canina for the rootstock, it should be noted that in Russia, if you wish, you can find quite a lot of different forms of rosehip suitable for this purpose, including those that are quite frost-resistant in the north.

For his part, the author considers the red-leaved rosehip, R. rubrifolia, to be the most worthy of our attention as a rootstock. This rosehip produces strong bushes and tall boles in St. Petersburg, and its frost resistance is complete here. This species is attributed to being susceptible to rust, as indicated, by the way, by R.I. Shredder. But at the same time, the same R.I. Schroeder considered the species R. rubrifolia to be an excellent rootstock for grafting roses.

Meanwhile, no matter how much the author observed the red-leaved rose hips - rose rubrifolia in plantings in the Leningrad region, he never saw rust on it.

This may be explained by the fact that in the north there is generally less rust, which, however, cannot be said about more southern areas.

Prof. I.I. Kichunov

“Garden” series of posts:
Part 1 - growing rose hips for grafting roses Part 2 - vertical gardens video Part 3 - homemade remedy for plant diseases ... Part 31 - grafting an apple tree Part 32 - growing clematis Part 33 - mosaic in the garden

What roses are grown on and without rootstocks?

Industrial nurseries that grow roses for sale propagate them exclusively by grafting. This way, all the properties of the mother variety grafted onto the rootstock are guaranteed to be preserved. For this purpose, local rosehip seeds are used. Its compatibility with future grafting material is taken into account. That is, the timing of the vegetative development of the rootstock must coincide with the “biological program” of the grafted variety. For example, heat-loving roses are grafted onto multi-flowered rose hips, Rosa multiflora, because their growth begins simultaneously in the spring.

If the grafting is done on a rootstock that is activated later after winter, there will be a discrepancy between the root system and the ground stems. The shoots are ready to grow, but the roots are still dormant. That is why in each region it is better to use local rosehip species for the rootstock, and for the scion, those varieties that grow safely in a given climate.

Budding of standard roses

Standard roses are distinguished by an expanded, lush crown, which rests on an elegant elongated standard. It is grown only under cultural conditions; such a plant does not grow in the wild. Such roses bud in much the same way as ordinary ones.

Before grafting begins, the rootstock is cleared of any remaining soil, washed, allowed time to dry, and then a T-shaped cut is made on it. From a cultivated variety of rose, several buds are cut into a standard with or without a bark shield. Do not remove the knife from the cut made on the rootstock, but use it to push the edges of the cut bark apart and carefully place the shield inside it. If the shield does not fit, you need to reduce it by removing excess parts from the sides.

When the eye is placed in the cut, the bark is pressed tightly and tightly wrapped with polyethylene film. Its length should be 20 cm and width – 1 cm. This size ensures the closest contact of the shield with the standard.

In this case, the fusion of the scion and rootstock occurs in 15-30 days. During this period, the bud should increase significantly, and the leaf should fall off at the slightest touch to it. If the bud begins to dry out and turn black, this indicates that the grafting of the standard rose was unsuccessful.

Grafting sequence for a standard rose.

What type of propagation can replace vaccination. Their advantages and disadvantages

Budding roses is a jewelry work.
It is even more important to grow a high-quality rootstock for it. As a result of propagation, roses are divided into:

• for own roots,
• vaccinated.

The latter are very successful because their root system is well developed, which means it provides the ground part with adequate nutrition. Thanks to this, the variety grows well, blooms profusely and brightly, and independently resists diseases and pests.

Self-rooted roses are propagated by cuttings and layering. They are weaker than grafted varieties, winter worse, and are less resistant to adverse weather conditions. Their resistance to diseases is significantly inferior to grafted roses.

But cuttings are much simpler than budding - grafting a bud into the root collar of the rootstock. It is not easy to carry out this procedure, even if the variety is grafted into a ground shoot of the rootstock. This requires some skill and a lot of training.

Is it possible to graft a rose from a bouquet?

Nothing is impossible for a desperate grafter! If you have been given a bouquet of roses, you can try grafting them onto existing roses in your garden using the budding method.

A rose from a bouquet can be grafted, but it must be freshly cut

To make this process successful, you should take into account some recommendations :

• It is better to graft flowers grown in your country, since there is little chance that imported roses that were cut a few days ago will take root;
• as a scion, use flowers that have stood in water for no more than 4 days;
• Vaccinate only in the summer.

As you can see, grafting roses is not difficult. Take these useful tips into account - and you will be able to create an attractive rose garden on your own site!

Rootstock care before and after grafting

When caring for varietal roses, the shoots that have grown from the rootstock are removed.
Otherwise, it will “defeat” the grafted variety and will again be reborn as a rose hip. When the rootstock seedlings sown in the greenhouse become stronger, and the seedlings in open ground reach the size of three true leaves, the plants are transplanted for growing. The distance between seedlings is maintained at least 30 cm. This is necessary for convenient care and free replanting with a clump of grafted plants.

The rootstock is formed for propagation for 2–3 years. Then another year passes after vaccination. After complete survival occurs, the new bush is transplanted to a permanent place.

The grafted roses are taken care of so that the grafting unit does not freeze in winter, and the shoots of the rootstock are removed in spring and summer. Moreover, it is better to dig up the bush and cut off the shoots at the root, otherwise they will grow back. The cut site must be treated with garden varnish or other protective substance to prevent infection from entering the wound.

Grafting a rose onto a rosehip in autumn, early winter

How to plant a rose in autumn or winter if you were not able to do it earlier. It is believed that the period from late autumn to mid-December is suitable for budding.

The technique for performing the procedure remains the same. However, before autumn-winter grafting, the rootstock and prepared rose cuttings require good warming. 2-3 buds are left on the cut cuttings. After grafting, the scion is dipped in molten paraffin until it is wrapped in film. The resulting seedlings are tied in bunches and stored in an upright position, with the roots sprinkled with wet sawdust. For the first 12-15 days, the air temperature in the room should fluctuate between 10-15 degrees.

In the spring, the seedlings are transplanted into warm soil and wait for the grafted rose to bloom in summer.

Category: “Questions and answers”

Question No. 1. In the first year after planting, the rose bloomed like a varietal rose, and the next year it turned out to be a rose hip. Why did it happen so?

This happens if the rootstock and scion are poorly chosen. The main thing in this tandem is compatibility. The above-ground part should complement the root system. In your case, the rootstock turned out to be biologically stronger. Perhaps the grafting site was damaged by frost in winter, so the rose hips grew back from the roots and the variety died.

Question number 2 . On grafted rose bushes, rose hips constantly grow from below. What to do with him?

Be sure to delete. All shoots that appear below the grafting site take away nutrition from the ground variety. If you don’t fight the shoots, they will eventually “crush” the graft and the bush will turn into a rose hip.

Question number 3 . What is the best way to sow seeds for a rootstock in open ground or in a greenhouse?

There is not much difference; the greenhouse method is more expensive and troublesome. For a small number of seedlings, a place is usually allocated on the site.

How to properly graft a rose onto a rosehip at home?

A rose is grafted onto a rosehip in the second half of summer by budding with a dormant eye .

1. Prepare scions (cuttings for grafting). To do this, cut off the annual faded shoots of varietal plants about 1 cm wide. They should have 2-3 developed buds.

Freshly cut cuttings and rose buds take root better

Remove thorns and leaves from the branches, leaving only the petioles, wrap the cuttings in a damp cloth and store in this form until grafting.

It is better to use fresh rose cuttings, but if necessary, they can be cut in advance (no more than a month before the planned grafting date) and stored in a damp cloth at a temperature of 2-4 ° C (for example, in the refrigerator).

2. Prepare the rootstock (the plant you will graft onto). Rake the soil away from the rosehip bush so that its root collar is visible. Use a damp cloth to remove dirt: the graft will not take root if soil gets into the cut area.

3. Take a previously prepared cutting and from its middle part, using a sharp budding knife, cut off the bud along with the shield (a piece of bark and cambium) so that its length is about 3 cm. Then clean the shield from the top layer of bark.

4. On the root collar of the rose hip bush (the place where the roots go into the trunk) on the side where the sun does not hit, make a T-shaped cut with a sharp knife and, carefully bending back the bark, insert a shield with a peephole below its horizontal line. Please note: the scion and rootstock must be tightly connected. To do this, the cut on the root collar of the bush should be equal to the size of the shield.

5. Wrap the grafting site tightly with plastic wrap so that the bud remains open. And then sprinkle the root collar of the rose hip bush with damp soil so that the grafting is not visible.

Grafting a rose onto a rose hip by budding