When does lilac bloom?
Lilacs can bloom at different times. This phenomenon depends on the type of shrub and climatic conditions in a particular region. Most varieties of lilac begin to bloom with buds already at the end of May. For example, at this time the common, Hungarian or Persian lilac usually blooms.
There are types of lilac, the flowering of which begins already in the first days of May, and in warm spring - even at the end of April. For example, such varieties include Chinese lilac.
The main flowering period of Amur lilac is in summer. This is a late flowering shrub that blooms in July. Therefore, if you want to enjoy blooming lilacs in the summer, you should take a closer look at this variety.
Air temperature plays an important role. In the case of early spring, when the temperature no longer drops below 15°C, one should expect early blooming of lilac panicles.
Gardeners to gardeners
Delicate and fragrant, lushly blooming lilac is perhaps the most favorite ornamental shrub among Russian gardeners.
With what impatience we all wait for the blossoming of spring, when lilac, violet, lilac and white clusters of lilacs begin to bloom, which immediately fill the surrounding space with a surprisingly subtle and delicate, incomparable aroma.
The smell of lilac is intoxicating, excites the blood, and inspires the most unrealistic hopes. I just want to deeply inhale this lilac aroma, which is intoxicating and dizzying!
It is lilac that marks the end of spring and the onset of the long-awaited warm summer after a long cold winter!
There is probably not a single gardener who would not grow this amazing ornamental shrub on his plot.
For a long time, lilac delighted people with its flowering for a very short time. It lasted no more than two weeks. And there were very few varieties.
But at the beginning of the last century, famous domestic and foreign breeders created truly unique varieties of large-flowered, multicolored lilacs, extending the flowering period of the lilac garden by almost two months.
We have already described in detail the history of the creation of new generation lilac varieties, their characteristics and agricultural technology, as well as the outstanding breeders who created truly stunning masterpieces of the latest selection in our published articles:
“How to care for lilacs”;
“Spring pruning of ornamental shrubs”;
"Large-flowered lilac from our collection."
Today we will talk about how to prolong the flowering of lilacs until the end of summer, so that every day you can admire this unforgettable, stunning sight and delightfully inhale the fabulous aroma, thereby extending the short northern summer.
HOW TO CREATE A LONG-FLOWERING SERENIA GARDEN
All varieties of lilac, which are the pride of our collection, have a long flowering period at the genetic level (about two months).
But some bloom earlier, while others bloom later.
Selection of varieties of different flowering periods . Even long-blooming lilac varieties bloom at different times. Therefore, if you want to extend the period of lush flowering of your lilac garden, choose early, middle, and late varieties.
We recommend that you definitely plant the most unique variety of pale pink remontant lilac, Festival Pink, Meyer’s selection.
In one season it blooms twice - in early May and then in early August. The first flowering lasts almost 2 months (until the end of June), the second begins in early August. When all other varieties of lilac have already bloomed.
Belle de Nancy blooms with a bright lilac-pink color.
Immediately after it, the flowering of huge clusters (up to 30 cm in length) of the world famous “Russian lilac” by Leonid Kolesnikov begins: white and pink Beauty of Moscow , red Red Moscow and by the end of the month - white Soviet Arctic .
At the end of May, the following varieties bloom : Mechta, Primrose (the only yellow variety of lilac), Aucubefolia (bright blue lilac) and In Memory of Ludwig Späth (with an amazing lilac-red color).
The famous lilac-lilac large-flowered variety of the American breeder Isabella Preston - Hiawatha .
You can choose 3 - 4 varieties from the above and thereby get your lilac to bloom for at least 3 months.
Pay attention to the color of the flowers and choose the one that suits your taste best.
Features of caring for long-flowering lilacs . The duration of flowering even for long-flowering varieties largely depends on growing conditions, plant care and the climate of your region.
The weather often presents us with its “surprises” in the form of sudden changes in temperature and pressure, as well as prolonged heavy rains.
This is a lot of stress for all plants. Blooming lilacs suffer greatly even in extreme heat.
Let's see how we can smooth out these unpleasant moments.
Where to plant long-blooming lilacs. The best place for it will be light, diffused partial shade during hot midday hours (from 12 to 15 hours). The rest of the time, the lilac bushes should be well lit by the sun, otherwise the flowering will not be so bright and lush.
Pay attention to the groundwater level. It should not approach the surface of the earth closer than 1.5 m.
Lilacs do not like drafts; try to protect your bushes from them and from the cold north wind.
Soils . Lilac loves light, loose, well-permeable and very fertile soils with a neutral environmental reaction. The slightest acidification can lead to shredding of flowers and a sharp reduction in flowering time.
Therefore, before planting long-flowering lilacs, be sure to neutralize the land in the area of its intended planting. To do this, use dolomite flour or crushed chalk (2 kg per 5 sq. m of planting).
Features of landing . Do not plant young bushes too often. Long-blooming lilac loves air and space. In addition, each bush should be well lit by the sun. Therefore, leave the distance between planting holes at least 3 - 4 m.
Dig planting holes with a depth and a diameter of 70 cm. Replace all soil from the holes with an artificially prepared mixture made up of the top fertile layer, humus, leaf soil and fine river sand in equal quantities.
At the bottom, be sure to lay drainage made of crushed stone (preferably limestone) in a layer of 10–12 cm.
After planting, water the bushes well (2 watering cans for each) and mulch with straw in a 5 cm layer.
Make sure that the root collar of the plants always remains level with the ground surface.
In addition, when planting, consider the color scheme of each variety, planting them depending on your taste preferences.
Watering. It plays a huge role in the lush and long-lasting flowering of lilacs. In dry, cool summers, water the blooming lilacs 2 times a week (3 watering cans for each bush). In hot weather - every other day, and in the early morning or late evening, apply finely dispersed sprinkling over the leaves.
The root system of long-flowering lilacs constantly needs an influx of fresh air. Therefore, after each watering, be sure to shallowly loosen the soil under the bushes.
After flowering ends, stop watering so as not to provoke the awakening of the buds.
Formation of bushes . In order for the long-blooming lilac to delight you with its lush blooms every year, you need to regularly prune and shape it.
How to carry out these operations is described in great detail in our article:
"How to care for lilacs."
Preparing for winter . Long-flowering lilac has increased frost resistance (up to -45 degrees), so cover its tree trunks only in the first year after planting.
It is best to use for this purpose dry leaves in a layer of 40 cm and one layer of spruce spruce branches “needles up” to protect young plants from rodent invasion.
THE BEST VARIETIES OF LONG-FLOWERING LILAC FROM OUR COLLECTION
We told you how to properly grow long-blooming lilacs. Now we invite you to choose its best varieties from our collection.
Our new products:
In memory of Ludwig Späth, Dream, Hiawatha, Belle de Nancy, Festival pink (remontant re-blooming) variety.
Our collection:
Primrose, Soviet Arctic, Aucubefolia, Beauty of Moscow, Red Moscow.
You can read more about these varieties of long-flowering lilacs on our website or in the SPRING 2021 catalogue.
And you can order them for spring planting today!
How long does it take for lilacs to bloom?
The duration of flowering of the shrub also depends on the variety and climatic conditions. Usually the entire lilac bush blooms in about 9-10 days. The flowering period of one panicle is 14-18 days. In this case, one single flower will bloom for about 9-12 days.
Shrubs with inflorescences in lighter colors (pink, pink-white and white) bloom earlier. Varieties with more saturated purple and lilac shades bloom later.
The total flowering time of the entire bush is 25-30 days. Most popular varieties bloom for no more than 40 days. Varieties that begin to bloom towards the end of May stop this process at the end of June. Terry varieties of lilac bloom a little longer.
Mature shrubs have a longer flowering period than young ones. In hot weather, the duration of lilac flowering is shortened as the inflorescences burn and dry out.
Spring care for lilacs for abundant flowering
Most gardeners grow lilac in their gardens because of their love for its fragrant purple flowers. In order for the flowering of the bush to reach its peak, it must be dried out as much as possible.
The first thing to start with is to clear the area around the bush from snow in order to warm the soil.
To achieve lush flowering, you need to trim the bush well.
After this, last year's leaves are removed into the compost pit using a rake and holes are made to feed the bush . To do this, using a garden drill with a diameter of 20 cm, holes are made with a depth of 50-70 cm. Their number is determined by the age of the bush and the depletion of the soil. If the bush is young, then only two holes are enough; if the bush is more than 5 years old and last year it bloomed profusely, then the number of holes around the bush will be 5-6.
The pits are filled to the full depth with rotted compost with the addition of complex fertilizers, ash and a small amount of lime , which will reduce the acidity of the compost. After this, the mixture in the holes is compacted and everything is leveled with a garden rake.
Next, they begin to remove unnecessary shoots . If they are not removed, then the main energy of the bush will go to growth, and not to flowering. Last year's young shoots at ground level are subject to complete cutting.
Formation of a lilac bush in the form of a low-growing tree
There is an option for growing decorative lilacs when it is formed in the form of a low-growing (no more than 2 m) tree with a single trunk . In this case, all side branches must be pruned to a height of 70 cm. However, if you grow decorative lilacs according to this principle, then you need to take into account that in frosty winters the plant may freeze. Spring pruning is best done near lilacs protected from northern winds by the wall of a house, garden buildings, etc. In other cases, such pruning is not recommended.
To obtain abundant flowering, lilacs are removed from branches that thicken the inside of the bush . Remove all branches growing inward, frozen and old, more than five years old. It is not recommended to remove more than 1/5 of all shoots.
After the branches are cut and the root shoots are removed, the soil under the lilac is dug up to a depth of no more than 5-10 cm.
What year does lilac bloom after planting?
Lilacs are capable of producing flowers already 1 year after planting. But, experienced gardeners recommend removing such inflorescences so that the bush does not bloom in the first season.
At this stage, the bush is still quite weak, so flowering will hinder its active development. Starting from the 2nd year, you can already leave all the inflorescences, since the bush will be stronger and full-fledged.
The year in which lilacs bloom also depends on the method of growing the bush. The above terms are relevant only for grafted bushes. If seeds, cuttings or layering were used to grow lilacs, you can expect the appearance of flowering buds only 4-5 years after planting.
How to feed lilacs?
If all the necessary fertilizers have been added to the planting hole, the lilac does not need to be fed for the first 2-3 years after planting (with the exception of nitrogen fertilizers). The plant begins to be fed with nitrogen from the 2nd year at the rate of 50-60 g of urea or 65-80 g of ammonium nitrate per plant. This annual feeding is best done in the spring.
From the 4th year of life in the garden, every summer the plant is fed with organic fertilizers (mullein infusion - 1:10).
Phosphorus and potassium are added in the fall once every 2-3 years under digging to a depth of 6-8 cm at the rate of 35-40 g of double superphosphate and 30-35 g of potassium nitrate per adult plant. It is very good to add ash in liquid form (250 g/10 l of water).
Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are usually applied in the fall
Reasons for the lack of inflorescences on lilacs
Many gardeners are faced with a problem when lilacs do not bloom. This is due to improper care or an inappropriate landing site. But there are also a number of other reasons:
- insufficient lighting. A very common reason. Lilacs need a lot of sunny color. Bushes should not be planted next to large trees or buildings;
- inappropriate place. Excess moisture is a negative factor for lilacs. Therefore, the shrub should not be planted in places with close groundwater flow or in wetlands.
- diseases and pests. Diseases and pest activity can lead not only to a lack of flowering, but also to the complete death of the bush.
Lilac propagation
Reproduction methods
Seed propagation of lilac is carried out mainly by specialists in nurseries. In amateur gardening, varietal lilacs are propagated by grafting, layering and cuttings. Both own-rooted lilac seedlings grown from layerings and cuttings, as well as grafted ones, are available for sale. Own-rooted lilacs are not as capricious as grafted ones, they recover more easily after frosty winters, they reproduce well vegetatively and, therefore, are more durable.
Lilac grafting
The rootstock for varietal lilacs can be common lilac, Hungarian lilac and common privet. Lilacs can be budded in the summer with a dormant bud or in the spring with an awakening bud, and spring grafting is preferable, since the survival rate of cuttings at this time is quite high - about 80%. For spring budding, cuttings are prepared in February or March and kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to 4 ºC, wrapped in paper. Cuttings are taken from mature annual shoots on which the bark has already turned brown.
The rootstock is also prepared in advance: the side shoots are cut at a height of 15-20 cm, and the root shoots are removed. The thickness of the root collar of the rootstock should be no thinner than a pencil, and the bark should easily come away from the wood, for which the rootstock should be watered abundantly a week before grafting. On the day of grafting, the soil is raked away from the root neck of the rootstock, the grafting site is wiped with a damp, clean cloth, the rootstock stump is split in the center with a budding knife to a depth of 3 cm. The lower end of the scion cutting is cleaned on both sides to the same height to form a wedge, and the scion wedge is inserted into split the rootstock, completely immersing the areas cleared of bark into it, and wrap the grafting site with tape so that its sticky side faces outward. Then, all damage and places from which the buds were removed are treated with a garden varnish, and a plastic bag is placed on the grafted cuttings, fixing it to create a greenhouse effect below the grafting site. The bag is not removed until the buds on the scion begin to swell.
Budding is carried out on a dry, fine day from 5 to 10 am or in the evening, from 4 to 8 pm.
Reproduction by layering
To carry out this method of propagation, find a young shoot that is beginning to become lignified, pull it in the spring in two places (at the base, and also retreating another 80 cm) with copper wire, trying not to damage the bark, then lay the shoot in a groove 1.5-2 cm deep , leaving the top on the surface, and secure it in it with pins. When the shoots growing upward from the layering reach 15-17 cm, cover them with fertile soil to at least half the height. Do not forget to water the cuttings all summer, remove emerging weeds and add soil under the growing shoots 1-2 more times. With the onset of cold weather, the cuttings are separated at the constriction points, cut so that each part contains a shoot with roots, and the divisions are sent to the school for growing or immediately planted in a permanent place. Don't forget to protect young plants overwintering in the garden from the cold.
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Propagation by cuttings
Since lilac cuttings are difficult to root, two rules must be followed:
- cuttings should be harvested immediately after flowering or during it;
- cut cuttings in the morning from young plants, selecting non-lignified shoots of medium thickness with short internodes and 2-3 nodes from inside the crown.
The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, the upper ones are shortened by half, the lower cut is made obliquely, and the upper one is made at a right angle. Lilac cuttings are dipped with an oblique cut into a solution of a root formation stimulator for at least 16 hours.
For successful rooting, it is advisable to use a greenhouse or cutting box. The best substrate for rooting is a mixture of sand and peat in equal parts, although sand can be partially replaced with perlite. The substrate treated with Fundazol or Maxim is placed in a sterile seedling container in a layer of about 20 cm, and 5 cm of calcined river sand is poured on top of it. Before planting, the lower ends of the cuttings are washed from the root-forming solution with clean water, after which the cuttings are planted in a layer of sand at such a distance from each other that their leaves do not touch each other. The cuttings are sprayed with water from a spray bottle and covered with a transparent lid. If you don't have a cutting box or greenhouse, cover each cutting with an inverted five-liter clear plastic bottle with the neck cut off. Contain rooted cuttings in partial shade. Make sure that the sand under the cuttings does not dry out and spray the air under the cover with water to create one hundred percent humidity, and to prevent fungal damage, spray once a week with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
The roots of the cuttings appear after 40-60 days, and after that it will be necessary to ventilate the cuttings every evening, and over time the bottles will be removed completely. If the roots appeared in the summer, the cuttings are planted in a light area in light, slightly acidic soil and covered with spruce branches for the winter, but if rooting occurs closer to autumn, the cuttings are left to overwinter at the rooting site, and are transplanted into the garden only in the spring. Lilacs from cuttings bloom in the fifth year.
Growing from seeds
If planting and caring for lilacs in the garden seemed too simple and bland to you, and you are not looking for easy ways in life, you can try growing lilacs from seeds. Lilac seeds are collected in the fall in damp weather, after which the boxes are dried for several days at room temperature, then seeds are extracted from them, which are subjected to stratification: mixed with wet sand in a ratio of 1:3, placed in a bag or container and stored in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator in within two months. The sand should be slightly damp throughout stratification.
Sow lilac seeds in the second decade of March in well-steamed or roasted garden soil to a depth of 15 mm. The crops are moistened with a spray bottle. Shoots can appear in two weeks, but sometimes seeds can take up to three months to germinate. Two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings are planted in increments of 4 cm, and with the onset of stable warmth, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place.
You can sow seeds before winter in slightly frozen ground - this will free you from the stratification procedure. In the spring, the emerging seedlings are picked and sent for growing.
What needs to be done to make lilacs bloom?
If after planting the shrub takes root normally, but is still unable to bloom, it is necessary to change the approach to caring for the crop. Lilac is an undemanding shrub, so it will take root in most areas.
But, in the case of varietal bushes, it is important to provide suitable conditions not only for the development of the crop itself, but also for flowering. To do this, first of all, you should properly care for the bush.
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Plant nutrition
Popular signs associated with lilacs
Lilac bushes grow in almost every village yard, and even in many Russian cities they can be seen at the entrances of high-rise buildings. This proves that people still believe that the bush protects from evil:
- Lilac is a natural amulet for the home against dark forces, ghosts and negative energy. The bush absorbs negativity and transforms it into positive vibrations.
- White varieties give the inhabitants of the house psychological comfort and harmony. People become more spiritual, calm and balanced.
- The lilac bush helps to realize potential, reveals talents in a person and brings inspiration.
- In some states of America, lilacs are considered as an assistant in new endeavors. It is believed that at the end of winter the world is filled with stagnant, heavy “winter” energy, which slows down and prevents us from moving forward. To get rid of it, it is recommended to put a bouquet of lilacs at home or take a walk near a bush.
- Lilac oil and branches are used in magical rituals. Various potions were made from the first one, and staves and runes were made from the trunk.
Compositions made from lilac branches have the same properties as a bush: they protect, renew, and help. From an aromatherapy point of view, the lilac scent promotes concentration, organizes thoughts and improves performance. Therefore, even if lilacs do not grow under your windows, you can always buy a bouquet and feel its positive effects.
Care
First of all, you need to choose the right landing site. This should be a well-lit area with minimal shading. It is necessary to provide protection from strong winds.
Swampy and overly waterlogged soil is not suitable. If there is groundwater nearby, most likely the bush will not be able to fully develop.
Lilac takes root well in peat and sandy soil. In the case of heavy soil, the hole for planting lilacs should be filled with a light substrate.
After planting, caring for lilacs consists of:
- regular watering without waterlogging;
- periodic application of organic fertilizers to the soil (in spring);
- weed removal;
- fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers several weeks before flowering.
The soil should be covered with a layer of mulch to normalize moisture and prevent the growth of weeds.
Autumn care period
Autumn is the time when it is necessary to prepare the lilac bush for wintering. However, it is even more important to prepare it for subsequent flowering. Lilac is a perennial plant, so it must be cared for year-round, otherwise its health will begin to deteriorate. To preserve itself, the crop will begin to grow throughout the surrounding area, the radius of which can reach 10-20 m. In this case, the bush will look like a rickety tree, and its flowers and leaves will become dull over time.
It is difficult to uproot an overgrown lilac, because... its root system is quite branched and will go deep into the soil. Some roots will become diseased or rotten. To prevent this from happening, the young bush (preferably from the moment it was planted in the garden) must be provided with abundant weekly watering. It is necessary to moisten not only the area next to the trunk, but also the ground around it. You can add fertilizer to the water, but it is not recommended to constantly fertilize the bush.
When preparing a bush or seedling for wintering, you need to make sure that it is not affected by disease, rot or parasites. All these phenomena must be prevented in advance, but if this happens, then the lilac must be cured before wintering. Diseased areas should be cut off or treated with special means.
It should be noted that only in the fall can you remove those branches that harm the plant, incl. old plants growing inward, etc. Then next year new shoots will appear in their place and the bush will continue to grow beautifully. If you cut them off in spring or summer, then nothing will grow in their place, and the bush will look “bald.”
After this, you need to nourish the soil under and around the plant with natural fertilizers, otherwise the soil will quickly become depleted, which will lead to improper growth of the bush or even its death. The land on which the lilac grows is gradually depleted, but its fertility must be maintained every year. The dull color, sickly and unkempt appearance of wild lilacs is a consequence of the depletion of the soil. To prevent this, just put compost or humus under the root and around 2-3 m. You should not remove fallen leaves and old grass, this is also fertilizer.
It should be noted that only in the fall can you remove those branches that harm the plant, incl. old plants growing inward, etc. The illustration for the article is used under the standard license ©dachnyedela.ru
Regular pruning
In order for the lilac to bloom and have a beautiful crown shape, it must be pruned regularly and correctly. Lilacs are not pruned in the fall, as this may result in a lack of flowering in the next season.
It is advisable to cut off excess branches immediately after the end of the flowering period. Anti-aging pruning is carried out every 3 years. It involves cutting off all branches that make the crown excessively thick or directed inward of the bush.
Old, dried out and damaged branches must be removed. In the cut areas, the bush must be treated with garden varnish to prevent infections.
With proper care and regular pruning, you will ensure beautiful and lush lilac blooms every season. But, in addition to care, do not forget about controlling pests and diseases of shrubs.
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Planting lilacs
Few people know that lilacs are related to olive trees. This plant tolerates both frost and drought; such a beautiful and unpretentious ornamental plant should be looked for. As a rule, lilacs are planted in the second half of August or the first week of September. However, this does not apply to all its varieties. So, planting lilacs in April is possible if it is a climbing lilac.
It is important to observe several conditions for proper planting of lilacs:
- In the place where lilacs are planted, the soil should be slightly alkaline, or better yet, neutral, and have excellent permeability.
- Lilac will bloom only if it gets enough sunlight in the first half of the day. Lack of light slows down the growth and reduces the flowering of lilacs.
- It is advisable to protect the place where the lilac will grow from the wind.
- The ideal place to plant lilac bushes is on a slope from the southwest.
- When planting, organic fertilizers should be added to the soil, and later mineral fertilizers.
- Planting lilacs in the ground in spring or autumn is best done in cloudy weather or in the evening.
- The holes for planting lilac seedlings in the spring should have steep walls and a size corresponding to the condition of the soil (the higher its fertility, the larger the holes).
- Planting lilacs with a closed root system, according to experienced gardeners, is much simpler than planting lilacs with an open root system.
- When planting lilac seedlings in the spring, flowering will not occur in the same year, which is why it is better to plant lilacs in the fall.
- Planting lilacs from cuttings is a labor-intensive process, even the preparatory stage takes a lot of time. They are planted during the period of active flowering, and in the fall lilacs are planted in open ground, and caring for the seedlings necessarily includes protecting the root system from frost.
