Preparing peonies for winter: pruning, feeding and covering

Fall is the perfect time to prepare perennial plants for winter. It is in the fall that you must carefully take care of your peonies so that they can successfully overwinter and produce many beautiful buds again next year.

Next, we’ll talk about how to properly care for peonies in the fall, when to feed them, how to prune them, and whether they need to be covered for the winter.

Note! Ignoring autumn care and preparing peonies for winter often leads to the fact that the plant stops blooming .

Should I prune for the winter?

Before we talk about autumn pruning of a peony, let’s first find out whether it needs it.

As with many issues, there are several points of view here. Many respected flower growers believe that the stems should be cut off in the fall so that they do not serve as a shelter for various pests and pathogens.

This is the traditional opinion stated in a large number of books on peony care.

At the same time, many experts are supporters of the opposite position and recommend not pruning the bush for the winter.

Their arguments roughly sound like this: “Nature provides for the natural death of foliage, the plant is accustomed to this, and there is no point in artificially changing this pattern. In addition, withered leaves serve as natural protection from frost and cover the roots of the flower.”

Personal experience

In our dacha, peonies have been growing for more than 40 years, and my grandmother or mother always trimmed them in the fall. However, in recent years I have conducted an experiment and deliberately left them alone. I didn’t find any negative changes, they also bloom luxuriantly and don’t get sick.

So what to do?

I believe that if there is an opportunity and desire, the bush can be pruned for the winter. This recommendation is especially suitable for those people who are full of energy and, when they see the slightest defect in the flowerbed, immediately run to correct it so that everything is perfectly beautiful.

They are literally haunted by this withered stem and fallen leaf, as they say, “their hands are itching.” Don’t think anything bad, I myself often suffer from attacks of perfectionism, but also “not giving a damn.”

If you don’t have time or want to try not to trim peonies after flowering, then don’t worry, nothing bad will happen to them. Do not cut off the foliage, and the flower will delight you with friendly shoots in the spring.

"Festival of Flowers" warns! Do not confuse winter pruning with peony pruning after flowering, when faded buds are cut off so that it does not waste energy on setting fruit.

Place to trim faded peony

Autumn work on replanting peonies

Autumn work includes not only covering peonies for the winter, pruning and fertilizing. Autumn is the best time to transplant peonies to a new location, although some gardeners carry out this activity in both spring and summer.

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It’s better to stop in the fall, when the heat has already subsided. Autumn transplanting has its advantages. Moderate watering will help quickly develop a strong root system. And next year the bush will delight you with lush flowering.

Rules for transplanting peonies

For transplantation, choose a day without rain and sun. Be sure to prune the bush before replanting. The remaining shoots should be no more than 20 cm in height. The bush is dug out carefully; it is better to do it with a pitchfork so as not to touch the roots. It is better to place the pitchfork away from the trunk so as not to damage the young shoots.

Having dug up the bush, you need to lightly shake it off any clods of soil. You shouldn’t hit the bush against anything or shake it too much; it’s better to do it with your hands. After this, you need to inspect the root system. If there are damaged and rotten roots, they are removed. Then the roots are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The dug up and treated bush is left in the shade for a couple of hours. During this time, the plant's roots will become elastic. Then the bush is placed in a new, pre-prepared hole, carefully straightening the roots, and covered with soil. After transplanting, peonies are covered for the winter according to the same scheme as given above.

Experienced flower growers recommend cutting flowers that appear in the first year after transplantation immediately, without leaving them on the bush. This way the plant will get stronger faster, and the next year it will bloom in all its glory.

Peony does not bloom after transplantation: what to do?

Reasons why peonies stop blooming after transplantation:

• The plant does not have enough sun.
• The plant is planted too deep in the hole.
• Planting without drainage, an excess of groundwater leads to rotting of the roots.
• Do not divide the root into small parts. Otherwise, the plant will take a long time to get stronger.
• Lack of nutrients, requires feeding.
• It is not recommended to replant the plant too often, weakening it. It is better to do this once every six years.

When and how to prune correctly?

It is better to prune peonies in the fall after the stems have already withered from exposure to cold. This usually occurs after the first serious frost.

Until this moment, it is better not to prune the bush (except for withered buds after they have bloomed), since after flowering the plant recovers and gains strength. The process of accumulation of nutrients in the storage roots is underway.

In case of urgent need, at least 30-40 days should pass from the end of flowering to pruning, and it is even better to wait until at least mid-late August.

It is even easier to determine the deadline - until they are completely covered with snow, but it is better when it is still quite warm and dry - “Indian summer”.

Timing for pruning in autumn

As you understand, the optimal timing for autumn pruning will differ in different regions. They will also differ in the same region depending on the weather that particular year.

Moreover, anomalies have often been observed in recent years. For example, one year you can prune in the Moscow region already at the end of September, and in another autumn the leaves will be green even in mid-October.

Why is it not advisable to rush into pruning?

In conversations with summer residents, I heard how they trimmed the peony almost immediately after flowering or as soon as the tops of the leaves began to dry out. They don’t like that the bush has become less decorative, and is an “eyesore” with faded foliage with spots.

Know that the leaves of a healthy plant remain viable until the first frost and they dry only on diseased specimens. At the same time, the leaves themselves may acquire a bronze, red, yellow or pink color closer to autumn.

Since the plant needs stems with leaves to recover after flowering, pruning too early will do more harm to it than the unsightly appearance of the bush to our eyes.

If you really want to, after the peony has faded, you can cut off the tops of the stems so that at least 3-4 leaves remain on each of them.

Attention! If a bush is affected by any disease or pest, then it often has to be cut off the affected stems and treated with preparations. But even in this case, first try to identify the disease, and only then trim the leaves and treat the flower.

How to trim correctly?

This is a simple agricultural technique that even a child can handle.

1. Take a clean pruning shears or sharp knife.
2. Trim all stems at a height of 3-5 cm from ground level.
3. Sprinkle the cut areas with a small amount of crushed wood ash (ash).
4. It is customary to burn cut foliage to destroy pathogenic microorganisms and pests. Some peony growers prefer not to burn them, but to put them in compost for at least three years and then use them as fertilizer and mulch.

Peony stems after pruning for winter

Basic procedures

Garden flowers, especially perennials, often require constant attention. Peonies are not one of them. Despite their chic decorative appearance, they are quite unpretentious if planted in a well-chosen place, watered and fed on time.

At the same time, the plant is perennial; only once every 10-15 years does it need to divide the overgrown root and transplant it to another place.

The period when more attention is paid to culture is autumn.

Watering

After flowering, the plant needs to replenish its strength, this takes 1-1.5 months. Then comes the laying of new buds for next year, the accumulation of nutrients, and the strengthening of the root system.

For successful renewal, regular watering is needed; it is carried out in the summer once a week at the rate of 3-4 buckets per bush.

For better absorption of moisture, you need to dig a groove around the perimeter. In elevated places, on the contrary, they create a small earthen ridge to prevent the water from spreading.

In autumn, watering should be more abundant so that peonies go into winter with a supply of moisture. The best time to hydrate is after sunset.

Important: it is better to water along the periphery, where small suction roots are located. They are not located directly under the stems.

Feeding

Preparing peonies for winter includes the stage of feeding: the plant vitally needs mineral and organic substances.

Proper nutrition will create a reserve of strength, in the spring the bushes will grow faster, flowering will be abundant and long-lasting.

Fertilizer application begins in the 3rd year. Deadline: 2 months before pruning, from the first days of September.

Mineral components

Nitrogen is left for the spring, and in the fall they focus on phosphorus-containing preparations.

• More often they prefer superphosphate and phosphate rock. When the soil is acidified, chalk, limestone, and dolomite flour are added.
• Potassium fertilizers, in particular potassium chloride and sulfate, will help peonies survive severe frosts. They strengthen the roots and increase the plant’s resistance to adverse environmental conditions.
• The multi-component product “Kemira-autumn” based on phosphorus and calcium has proven itself to be excellent.

Organic

These fertilizers are environmentally friendly and quickly absorbed from the soil.

Autumn fertilizing is necessary

Bird and cow manure, peat, vermicompost, compost, green manure - they are laid out under the bush at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 sq.m.

Fresh manure and bird droppings are not suitable; an infusion is prepared from them: 1 bucket of material per 10 buckets of water, infused for 2-3 days and diluted again in water in a ratio of 1:10.

Wood ash reduces acidity, prevents the appearance of pests, and is used both in solution or infusion, and in dry form as a powder for the root zone.

Trimming

The quality of flowering of the bush and its health depend on compliance with deadlines and technology.

• Reducing the green mass too early will weaken the peonies;
• Later, it will create the preconditions for rotting and the appearance of fungal infections.

The optimal time is considered to be the moment when the leaves begin to turn red, fall off, and the stems bow to the ground.

Important: pruning is carried out only with a sharply sharpened and disinfected tool. After treating 1 bush, disinfection of the knife or pruning shears is repeated, otherwise there is a risk of transferring a possible hidden disease to another plant.

In tree-like peonies, the skeletal branches are not touched; in herbaceous peonies, a stump of 1-2 cm is left. Plant remains are carefully removed and burned in a separate place.

Pest treatment

Bronzovki - they are collected by hand, and the ground under the bush is watered in the evening with an insecticide solution.

Root-knot nematodes - their appearance predicts death for the peony; you have to dig it up and burn it in order to preserve the rest of the flowers.

Aphids - destroyed by Fufanon.

Ants, mites, thrips - do not like chemicals and quickly leave the battlefield after 1-2 sprayings.

Diseases and treatment

Rust - got its name for its external signs. Uneven brown spots with pads full of spores appear on the plant; they can have an orange or red tint.

Diseased leaves and stems are cut off and burned, and treated with Bordeaux mixture.

Gray rot is dangerous because it develops quickly and affects all parts of the flower.

• Externally, you can recognize it by its dried buds and leaves with a characteristic grayish coating.
• The second sign is the appearance of brown spots around the stem at the root collar.

For prevention, Bordeaux mixture is used, for treatment - Thiram suspension.

Powdery mildew is immediately visible by the white coating on the leaves and buds. There is no particular harm from it, except for the spoiled appearance.

You will need to spray with a mixture of laundry soap and soda ash. Treatment is carried out twice with an interval of 10 days.

Verticillium wilt - appears during the flowering period. To confirm the diagnosis, it is enough to cut off any stem and look at the vessels.

Periodically inspect plants for diseases

If they have darkened, then you urgently need to dig up and burn the plant, saving those that are nearby. The disease cannot be cured, but it spreads very quickly to neighboring peonies.

The place from which the diseased bush has been removed is carefully dug up, covered with bleach or spilled with formaldehyde. This year nothing can be planted in this area.

Flexible - the reason for the appearance lies in high humidity with a lack of heat. At the first signs, diseased fragments are removed and burned, sprayed with copper-containing preparations, the frequency of watering is reduced, and loosening becomes more frequent.

In the fall, for preventive purposes, the green mass is treated with Bordeaux mixture. Measures are necessary to maintain the health of the bush for the next year.

Feeding in autumn

Often gardeners, having learned that flowers can be fed in the fall to increase winter hardiness, ask me what to do with peonies in this matter.

I must admit that from year to year this question does not lose its popularity, and not a single September has passed without me being asked about it.

I always answer something like this: “A healthy and strong plant actually tolerates winter better, but peonies do not need to be fertilized in the fall. Apply the last fertilizing immediately after flowering (2-3 days). If an adult large bush bloomed profusely, and you cut off half the flowers, then you can still feed 15-20 days after flowering.”

For feeding, use only potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (1 tbsp. potassium and 1.5-2 tbsp. superphosphate per 10 liters of water). It is strictly forbidden to use nitrogen, otherwise the bush will not have time to prepare for winter and will become more vulnerable to pests and diseases.

• In the magazine "Flower Festival" there is all the information in the general article on caring for peonies. Enjoy it for your health!

How to plant and replant peonies to a new place in the fall

Luxurious peonies can delight a summer resident with their beauty for more than 15 years, but from time to time the bushes need to be replanted. The root system grows considerably in the old place, and to improve flowering in the future, the plant needs a change in soil and environment. It is recommended to do this in the fall, as the peony enters a dormant state.

If you want to transplant a huge bush with a large rhizome, then you need to place it in a new hole unchanged. An adult specimen is planted in a sunny area, since in the shade the foliage will be pale and the plant itself will be small. Experienced gardeners place peonies next to a fence, berry bush or fence.

The pit for replanting is prepared in advance; its depth should not be less than 50 cm. Be sure to pour a little wood ash and humus into the recess, since the plant will bloom here for many years. Upon completion of work, do not water the peony.

The best time to plant peonies in the fall is at the end of September.

choosing light areas for this purpose. Before dividing the bush, water it; it is optimal to do this 2 days before the start of gardening work. This way, the soil will become moist and pliable, which means it will be easier to dig up the roots.

In the chosen location, make a hole about 70 cm deep and its diameter should be at least 1 meter. Ordinary ash can be used as fertilizer.

Now divide the dug up bush into parts using special scissors. When laying out the root system, try to make sure that the top bud is 1 cm below the soil level.

Do I need to cover it for the winter?

Peony has high winter hardiness and, according to generally accepted opinion, herbaceous species and varieties can withstand up to -40 Cº (USDA zone 3). Therefore, mature bushes do not need winter shelter in the Moscow region, Leningrad region and even in the Urals and Siberia.

They also do not need to be dug up. Before wintering, it is enough to inspect the base of the bush so that the rhizome does not stick out of the ground and, if necessary, cover it a little with soil.

Young peony

Young bushes (1-2 years), divisions, cuttings, store-bought seedlings of OKS and ZKS must be prepared for winter in the first year of planting.

Before the onset of constant cold weather (October-November), cover with earth or sprinkle with a 5-7 cm layer of peat (except for acidic soil) or old aged compost (3-4 years). After the snow melts (March-April), the mulch will need to be raked.

How to properly cover peonies

The plant has such an important feature as the very close location of the growth buds to the soil surface. Considering this circumstance, flower growers carefully prepare the flower for wintering. Peonies are not covered only in the southern regions, where they tolerate winters well.

The growth buds that formed in the autumn are located in the ground only 3-7 cm deep. In places where there are frosty winters, the plant is earthed up in the fall before frost sets in.

Also, to cover the peonies, you should prepare mulch in advance. Suitable for this:

• peat;
• wood shavings;
• spruce branches;
• dry leaves;
• grass.

The bush is covered with a layer of mulch about 15-20 cm high. Such insulation will protect the plant from any frost until the onset of warmth.

In winter, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the bushes. If there is insufficient rainfall, you need to collect snow and cover the area with flowers with it. This will be an additional measure to preserve plants in winter frosts.

Preparing for winter step by step

Here we will summarize all of the above and collect information in the form of instructions with several options for caring for peony in the fall.

Simply and easily

1. Do nothing in the fall, but in early spring remove the wilted stems and place them in a compost bin for three years.

Book approach

1. Trim the peony leaves at the end of August - mid-September (Moscow region, North-West, Volga region, Urals, Siberia) and burn.

Young plants

1. Pruning stems in September.
2. Hilling or mulching the bush in October–November.

Video “Exposure of peony before planting”

In this video, an expert will tell you how to hold a peony before planting it in the garden.

The sale of peonies in decorative packaging starts in mid-March. This issue contains useful recommendations for their storage and care.

Galina Zaitseva

Senior biologist "7FLOWERS"

Types of peonies

There are two main types of peonies - herbaceous and tree-like. The first are rhizomatous herbs with large luxurious flowers of various shades. The second are perennial deciduous shrubs of hemispherical shape up to 2 m high. Their aboveground part does not die off to the root collar for the winter (like herbaceous ones), but partially becomes a trunk. Tree peonies are more decorative, more exotic than herbaceous peonies and grow longer in one place without transplanting. This group also includes Rock peonies, which are distinguished by their large size and high winter hardiness.

How to preserve plants before planting?

During transportation, all conditions for plant “rest” are maintained. The root system is wrapped in damp moss and a plastic bag. After purchasing plants, if the buds do not wake up

, they can be stored in their original state at +1...+3°C in a dark place.

If the kidneys are swollen

, it is advisable to plant the plant in a 2-3 liter container with moistened soil and place it in a dark and cool place (+3...+5°C), which will retard the growth of the above-ground part of the peony, but will start the rooting processes.

If the kidneys woke up

and began to grow, the optimal conditions are maximum illumination and low air temperature.

The time for planting in the ground is the first ten days of May. Tree peonies can be kept in pots until autumn, preparing the place.

What to do in the first year of planting?

Prepare a planting hole 60x60x60, drain the bottom with gravel 10-15 cm high, prepare a soil mixture (mix the excavated soil with humus, peat and superphosphate). Add sand on clay soils, and clay on sandy soils.

The planting depth of herbaceous peonies is regulated by the rule: buds or sprouts should be 5 cm below the soil level. For tree peonies, the root collar should be located at soil level.

If you want the peony inflorescences to be large, you need to pinch the buds of the first year of flowering. This will also help the plant itself to quickly increase its underground mass, without wasting extra energy on flowering.

What can I do to make the peony take root?

The most important thing is to determine the right place in the garden. What it should be like:

• sunny and not swampy, because peonies do not like shade and areas where water stagnates and groundwater comes close;
• windproof, because peonies are afraid of drafts and wind;
• spacious, because peonies cannot stand competition with trees and shrubs (the feeding area of ​​1 bush is at least 1 sq. m).

Once planted in a suitable place, a peony shows its persistent character and is able to bloom without special care for ten years or even longer, attracting, delighting and giving warmth.

After landing

In the first year after planting, the plant must adapt and grow its root mass. It develops slowly and does not bloom. That's how it should be. We recommend removing random flowers of the first year so that the plant can direct its strength to the development of the root system. Peonies bloom only in the second or third year after planting. Every year the bush becomes more magnificent and luxurious, and in the fourth or fifth year it reaches full bloom. The tree peony blooms in late spring - early summer, usually 1.5-2 weeks earlier than the herbaceous peony, and blooms for two weeks or even longer. For herbaceous peony, this period is 7-10 days. Peonies bloom in the garden can last almost 2 months

, if you choose the right varieties.

Pruning and wintering

At the first frost, the branches of the herbaceous peony turn black and need to be pruned. Its tree-like relative sheds only its leaves in the fall; the branches remain. In the conditions of the middle zone, tree peonies need shelter for the winter with spruce branches or spunbond, while herbaceous peonies in our latitudes successfully winter under the snow.

There is frost and snow outside, and we can already feel the approach of spring - soon the store shelves will be filled with long-awaited plants, and the receipt of ordered roots and seedlings will begin. For inexperienced flower growers, this time is quite difficult - after all, it is necessary not only to purchase planting material, but also to skillfully preserve it until planting.

When purchasing peonies in the spring, we usually experience very conflicting feelings: we really want to buy them and remember the recommendation to plant them only in the fall. Indeed, we always plant peonies in the fall, because at the end of August - beginning of September, peonies are dug up and divided. In September, we plant the purchased peony cutting in a permanent place.

Lately we have been talking more and more often about spring planting. This is explained by the fact that peonies come to us from Europe exactly at this time. Apparently this is more profitable for gardening companies importing peonies to Russia. But there is no reason to worry. Peony has two periods of growth of suction roots - in autumn (August-September) and spring (April-May). If in the fall we plant a piece of wood in the ground, in a permanent place, then in the spring, when we buy it in February-March (at this time, “foreign things” usually arrive), we cannot plant it in the ground - it is still frozen, so we plant it in pots. The size of the pots is 2-3 liters depending on the size of the division. And we keep the peonies in a cool, dark place (cellar, basement, glassed-in loggia, garage) until warm weather. I would like to warn you that in spring you can buy peonies with an open root system no later than the end of March. In April May, as soon as possible, we dig in pots of peonies in the garden. This way they can be kept until autumn. Over the summer, it will be possible to prepare a place for planting, lay planting holes in advance, and then, by transshipment, without disturbing the clod of earth, plant the peony in a permanent place. You can plant it in place without waiting for the fall (as a rule, that’s what I do).

Passing the peony at the end of May, you will see that the earthen lump is entangled in white suction roots. This eloquently indicates that the peony has taken root and has something to eat and absorb water. But you should not keep a peony in a pot for more than a year. The suction roots will grow, but the rhizome practically does not grow. If such a need arises, it is necessary to increase feeding and ensure that diseases do not develop (most often, gray rot).

The only thing you need to remember is that if during autumn planting you only need to prepare the planting holes in advance, then during spring planting you need to additionally prepare:

• pots 2-3 liters (usually 3 liters)
• earth (best purchased, it is cleaner and lighter)

It is necessary to consider the storage location and the possibility of weekly monitoring of plants, temperature control (optimally +1-2 degrees). Watering as such is not necessary, but the soil in the pots should not dry out. If the soil is dry, I cover the top of the pot with snow; when it melts, it moistens the soil. The emerging sprouts do not suffer from this. Coolness and darkness will inhibit the growth of the above-ground part of the peony, which in our garden begins to sprout in the second half of April.

Recently, interest in tree peonies has begun to grow. They no longer seem like wonders and sissies to us, but in order not to spoil the pleasure of a pleasant purchase, we must adhere to certain rules. In our country, tree peonies with an open root system begin to be sold from the end of February in large garden centers and stores. At this time, planting material is received from European and Chinese gardening companies. Despite the snow outside the window, this is the best time to buy good, fresh seedlings of tree peonies, which, unfortunately, closer to April will have overdried buds and roots. If you bought a peony in February-March, the seedling should be immediately planted in a pot. It is good to add a mixture of ash and sand to the grafting site, this will protect it from rotting.

If the buds have not woken up, you should store it in a cool, dark place. If the buds wake up and begin to grow, place the peony pot on the window. Optimal maintenance conditions are maximum illumination and low air temperatures. To lengthen daylight hours, it is useful to backlight for 2-3 hours. You can also keep it in the refrigerator (but not advisable). To do this, wrap the plant in sphagnum moss and pack it in a plastic bag. Inspect and ventilate periodically. When kept in a pot by summer, the seedling will develop suction roots, and it will be possible to transplant it to a permanent place in the garden by transshipment. But still, the best time to plant a tree peony with an open root system is the end of August - September.

During the warmer months, garden centers sell tree peonies in pots. Peonies purchased with a closed root system (in a pot) can be planted throughout the growing season.

When the last doubts have been cast aside and you are ready to plunge into the whirlpool of garden shopping, still do not lose your head and remember that

• You should not purchase overdried peonies with blackened and dried buds;
• You shouldn’t believe sellers’ promises that the peony’s dormant buds will awaken (this may not happen)
• do not expect to “reanimate” a hopeless peony division with the help of growth stimulants;
• do not fall for bright labels that promise you “blue and black” peonies - there are no such things in nature, and this is just the art of Photoshop;
• do not buy yellow peonies at very low prices - these are tricks of sellers selling re-sorted varieties.

Currently, the range of peonies is quite large and, if desired, you can buy any variety you like. Therefore, you should not buy a product of questionable quality, even at a very attractive price.

Preface

A peony bush is a traditional decoration for most garden plots. These flowers grow well in the climate of our country and have gained popularity among gardeners for their luxurious flowering and fragrance, as well as their low maintenance requirements. To preserve them until spring without damage, you need to know a number of techniques. This also applies to young plants during planting.

Peony growth periods

The growth of the peony bark system occurs in spring and autumn. In the last days of January - early February, the tubers of this plant emerge from the state of winter dormancy. Their growth begins at +5°C.

Simultaneously with the beginning of root growth, shoots develop. On average, spring growth of peonies continues until the end of their flowering.

During the spring growth phase, suction roots actively help the plant. With their assistance, peony accumulates nutrients. There will be enough of them to ensure flowering this season, and to lay growth and flower buds for next year.

When flowering ends, root growth also stops. With the arrival of heat, the plant remains in the summer dormant period.

Resumption of growth of the peony root system occurs when the soil cools to +10°C - +15°C. Usually this time falls at the end of August - beginning of September (depending on the climate of the area). This period of peony growth is called autumn. Based on this, the best time for dividing and planting peony roots is considered to be the end of August - the beginning of the third ten days of September. At this time, new buds have already formed, and the roots begin the second stage of growth. Thus, they enable the plant to prepare for winter by supplying nutrients to the root system.

Inspection and processing

If you have just recently purchased peony sprouts, but winter is not far away, it’s time to properly prepare the plant for planting. First of all, you need to inspect this flower specimen. Even if you purchased a seedling somewhere at a fair or in a store, it is possible that you may not have noticed putrefactive formations on the roots. Under no circumstances should you leave it like this, as you can significantly harm the plant.

Be sure to cut off damaged or rotten shoots. Another key point: do not forget, after carrying out sanitary pruning, to treat the peony tubers with some kind of disinfecting material, and even such a common product as brilliant green will do. Knowing what the preparation and storage process of a peony seedling entails, you can wait until spring arrives and then root the plant directly in the open ground.

Additives for long-term storage

A small amount of vinegar and sugar (1 tbsp per 1 liter of water) will help increase the durability of flowers. Vinegar can be replaced with boric acid.

You can prevent the active proliferation of bacteria and thereby increase the freshness of flowers by using several crystals of potassium permanganate dissolved in water. You can also use aspirin (2 tablets per 1 liter of water), activated carbon or pine extract.

Professional florists increase the shelf life of cut peonies using special additives. They can be purchased at flower shops.

Lush flowering in the garden always pleases the eye and gives a good mood. But to do this, you need to know how to preserve the peony before planting and how to provide it with a normal winter.

Peony is a delicate perennial flowering plant. Dense lush buds with a short-cut stem look very original in wedding bouquets, are an excellent addition to any photo shoot, and create a unique aroma at home. Peonies bloom quite early, and begin in late spring. This plant is unpretentious in care, grows quickly and luxuriantly, in spring and summer it only needs weeding and watering as care, but in the fall it is necessary to pay a little more attention to the peony: prune, fertilize and prepare the root system for winter.