Growing ground cover roses: golden rules for beginners

Landing rules

Planting ground cover roses and caring for them is not a difficult matter, but if the bushes are planted incorrectly, it is almost impossible to wait for abundant flowering and good growth, even if you purchase high-quality planting material and good soil. Beginning gardeners need to know the rules of planting so that the flower garden looks well-groomed and elegant.

Choosing and organizing a place

Choosing a place to plant bushes is a responsible matter, so you need to take this seriously. Roses are light-loving, so planting in shaded areas of the garden is not recommended, but direct exposure to sunlight can severely burn delicate flowers and they will wither and die. It should be planted on the western or southeastern side of the front garden; the sun shines there only in the first half of the day, and afternoon shading will be a good protection from the midday heat.

Soil and landing

The soil for planting is prepared in the fall. The site is dug up, weed roots and other debris are removed, and humus is added. Plants prefer a slightly acidic soil reaction within the range of 5.56.5 pH; when acidic, lime or dolomite flour is added. If for some reason the soil was not prepared for spring planting in the fall, you can do this 6 weeks before planting the roses, then the soil will have time to sag.

Landing. Plants are planted in holes about 60 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. When planting several plants in a row, it is advisable to dig a trench of the same width and depth as the planting hole

It is important, when filling the hole, to water the soil layer by layer to prevent the formation of voids, and after planting, compact the soil and water the seedlings generously. After the shoots grow to 5 cm, the soil must be mulched and mulched.

Depending on the type per 1 sq. per meter, it is recommended to plant from 1 to 3 bushes.

Adonis flower: growing, care and use of the plant

Container types of roses are planted at any time, bushes with an open root system - in spring and autumn. In the northern regions they are planted from April to June, in the south - in late autumn.

Preparation and landing

It is advisable to carry out preparatory activities at least a month before planting the roses. The soil must be dug up, all weeds and their rhizomes must be selected, and also fed with fertilizers containing nitrogen. The composition of the soil should be loose and nutritious, the reaction of the environment should be from 5.5 to 6.5 pH. To alkalize acidic soil, dolomite flour or fluff lime is used. If the reaction is alkaline, superphosphates are added to the soil.

It is best to plant ground cover roses in spring or autumn. For harsh climates, spring planting will provide more benefits so that the plant can take root properly before next winter. If the climate is mild and winters are not so cold, ground cover roses are planted in the fall.

How to land:

1. The size of the hole is determined by the root system of the seedling. When planting roses in a container, you need to leave a margin of 8-10 centimeters on each side. For plants with an open root system, a space of 40x40 centimeters is usually prepared.
2. The top layer of fertile soil from the hole is mixed with humus, peat and mineral fertilizers.
3. The seedling is placed vertically in the hole. The soil surface should be at the level of the root bud. For container seedlings, you can use the top edge of the soil in the pot as a guide.
4. The hole is filled with pre-prepared soil mixture, compacting it tightly at the roots. It is allowed to spill water on the ground so that there are no air voids inside.
5. After planting, the plant is well watered, the top layer of soil is mulched with straw, dry grass or peat. This is a mandatory condition, because with further growth of the shoots it will be difficult to care for the root area, and this will protect the plantings from weeds.

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Before planting a rose from a container, you must water it well so that the earthen lump does not disintegrate. This will prevent injury to the roots and increase the chances of successful rooting. It is better to soak seedlings with an open root system in a stimulating solution for a day. Ground cover roses are planted directly from water, preventing the root shoots from drying out.

Trimming

Creeping roses should not be radically pruned. Although in the first year the stems are shortened in order to cause tillering. It is necessary to form a bush to constantly limit the size, which is considered optimal for the variety. To prevent the occurrence of mold or fungal diseases, you need to ensure that the bush is ventilated and is sufficiently illuminated by sunlight.

Important! The shoots are cut at an angle of 45°, the distance of the cut from the nearest bud should not be less than 0.5 cm. They prune mainly those branches that are directed towards the middle of the bush and thereby thicken it greatly

If several shoots grow from one bud, the strongest one is left, the rest are removed. 5–6 years after planting, ground cover roses should be rejuvenated. Cut off all stems at a distance of 20–30 cm from the root. All cuts must be treated with garden varnish; the bush is sprayed with a one percent solution of copper sulfate.

No matter how beautiful ground cover roses are, caring for and growing most of them is not a very labor-intensive process, which is why this variety of flowers has become popular recently. They are in high demand and look very impressive in various flowerpots and flower beds. In addition, they often decorate nondescript areas.

Creeping roses are versatile and can be grown and tied like climbing roses. Planting such plants in the center of even the best grass lawn will give it much more originality. Small ground cover roses can be bred in wide containers and placed on the site in the summer, and brought into the house in the winter, turning it into a house plant for the winter.

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We prune, rehydrate and prepare the shelter - without common mistakes!

Autumn is the most important time of year for rose growers: it is necessary to prepare the plants for the dormant period and ensure that winter frosts do not damage the bushes. Only after a successful winter will roses delight you with their blooms throughout the next season. I'll tell you exactly what needs to be done.

From the editor:

the recommendations of the author, a landscape designer from Novosibirsk, are based on the experience of growing for your own climate zone. Make adjustments for your region: add or subtract a few weeks if you grow roses in the south or central Russia

1. Trim carefully

In the fall, I try not to prune roses. I only remove faded flowers and buds, as well as immature and broken shoots - under unfavorable circumstances, they can become a source of infection. In addition, if you plan to cover your roses for the winter, you will most likely have to cut off some of the shoots so that you can install the cover.

But the leaves need to be cut off in two cases: if they are sick or damaged, and if the rose will overwinter under cover - there is absolutely no need for a center of rot and infection there.

Important:

The leaves need to be trimmed, and not torn off: when torn off, a bud is exposed, which can die without protection.

All leaves from under the rose must be removed after autumn pruning. And it’s better to burn them rather than put them in compost.

2. Bend down tall roses

The best winter shelter for a rose is snow. Fortunately, there is a lot of it in our area. Therefore, my main concern before winter itself is to ensure that the roses are covered with snow as quickly as possible with the onset of the cold season. To do this, I always bend down all tall roses, as well as climbing and standard roses.

It is better to start bending roses before the first serious frost, then they still bend easily and the bark does not crack. If the rose doesn’t give in right away, I bend it down in several stages, the process can take two to three weeks.

Advice:

It is better to bend roses not from the root, but by the tops, as if pulling them to the ground - this way there is less risk of breaking the shoots.

I collect particularly unruly shoots of roses together (several pieces), tie a rope to the tops and pull them to the ground - as far as the plant allows this to be done. I tie the rope to a peg and leave it there. After some time, I pull the rope a little more and secure it to the peg again. And so several times until I achieve the result I need. Instead of a peg, you can use bottles of water, tying them to the shoots and gradually increasing the number.

To get there before frost, I bend down particularly unruly bushes in advance. After several freezing, the shoots become “unbending” and break even with little force. I also try to bend down the tall bush roses so that they are completely under the snow as soon as possible. I treat them the same way as with climbing or raspberries: I secure them with pins.

Which shelter should you choose?

Shelter for roses should be air-dry (ADU). That is, it should be dry and have enough air. And the size of the shelter is commensurate with the rose. For example, by covering a rose with an inverted bucket, you cannot hope for its successful wintering: the volume of air is too small to maintain the microclimate necessary for the plant. In my experience, it is much more effective to cover not one, but several roses at once.

In the photo: lutrasil is fixed on wooden supports. Thanks to this, the roses will be warm, spacious and comfortable in winter.

Important:

It is necessary to cover roses only when constant negative temperatures have already firmly established. When day and night temperatures are around − 5… − 8 degrees. I usually cover roses already in the snow, in the frost - definitely not earlier than the end of October.

You can’t just take covering material for roses and wrap the shoots with it - this is a completely useless and even harmful activity. To maintain the correct microclimate, an air gap is needed between the stems and the shelter. Therefore, it is better to build a frame over a group of roses that is strong enough to support the weight of the snow. And you can already stretch the covering material onto it.

Preparing for winter

Preparation for winter begins in late August - early September. They begin to gradually reduce watering of the bushes and apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Pruning is not done to stop the growth of new shoots. Growing ground cover roses is less labor-intensive than hybrid tea or climbing roses; they are frost-resistant and do not require special shelter. The exception is standard copies.

The crown of the bush is placed on spruce branches and covered with it or sawdust. Secure the rose in the desired position with iron staples. If necessary, if the variety is heat-loving, build an air-dry shelter.

Autumn care for roses: covering, processing and pruning

Dear friends, it’s November! And outside the window there are unusual temperatures above zero. And, if you believe the forecasts of weather forecasters, this weather will last in the central zone for at least another three weeks. Have you already covered your roses? Most of our colleagues, in the hope that winter will soon arrive, have already carried out all the operations for the autumn care of roses: processing, pruning and covering the roses themselves. Many delay this pleasure until stable zero temperatures during the day and stable sub-zero temperatures at night are established.

Global warming is making adjustments to the lives of gardeners and the autumn care of roses. A small increase in average annual temperature (just 1 degree) leads to a shift in agroclimatic zones by approximately 100-120 km. This phenomenon has pros and cons. Now in the middle zone we can cultivate plants with winter hardiness zones 5 and 6 (in some cases) without shelter, without fear of losing them after the first wintering. Changes in the precipitation cycle, abnormal droughts, and an increase in the number of pests make us study the literature on farming in the Tambov and Voronezh regions. We may need this soon. And while the weather permits, I propose to delay all movements with shelter and processing of roses, and read the recommendations on this topic.

The main task of autumn care is to protect roses from frost, damping off and infection.

Shelter for the winter

An important condition for the safety of planted ground cover roses is preparation for winter and reliable protection from frost. Many varieties of ground cover roses overwinter safely without additional shelter, but in the event of unfavorable weather conditions the plant may freeze, which will lead to poor development and even death of the bush. To prevent this from happening, experienced gardeners recommend covering the rose with ground cover for the winter.

It's quite simple to do this:

1. Low-growing varieties are covered with spruce branches and dry branches and covered with thick fabric or lutrasil on top. You can build an air shelter from a metal frame frame and agrofibre.
2. Medium-height branches are loosely tied in a vertical position and wrapped with a tarpaulin or other suitable fabric. The root area is covered with sawdust.
3. Tall varieties are laid on the ground, with previously thrown branches and spruce branches. This will help protect the branches from rotting. An air shelter is constructed on top.

It is necessary to cover roses for the winter after the first frost, because in warm weather the plant can die and rot. If warming occurs, the shelter is ventilated during the day. Leaves are removed from the bush in advance and sanitary pruning of branches is carried out. It is also recommended to trim thin and weak branches, which, if killed by cold weather, can be a source of infection of the entire bush. The cover is removed in early spring, after which it is necessary to assess the condition of the bush, remove frozen shoots, spray the plant with Bordeaux mixture and feed it.

The ground cover rose, the planting and care of which in open ground are discussed in our article, is unpretentious, but can decorate any area. They are often used in landscape design to “fill in” empty areas, as well as in the design of garden compositions. Proper care and reliable shelter for the winter will ensure the plant a long life and beautiful flowering.

How to prepare roses for winter: shelter

Covering roses in the fall is the most important and final stage in preparing bushes for winter. The procedure must be carried out when growing in regions with cold winters, for example, the Middle Zone (including the Moscow region), Siberia, the Urals, the Leningrad region.

The timing of covering roses is determined by temperature conditions - a stable minus temperature must be established (minus both at night and during the day).

You can cover roses using the following technology:

• Step 1: The first step is to prepare the bushes for the procedure: applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, pruning and removing all leaves.
• Step 2: Hilling up with a mixture of garden soil, sand, peat (suitable for regions with cold winters).
• Step 3: Then you should bend the bushes to the ground, after placing boards or spruce branches in this place. However, not all roses need to be bent down, but only climbing ones and those that can be bent down.
• Step 4: If you bent the shoots to the ground, you should secure them to the ground with staples or a rope to a hook.
• Step 5: Place a frame or arches on top of the roses.
• Step 6: Cover the bushes with spruce branches or dry branches of bushes, dry oak leaves.
• Step 7: Cover the arches or frame with spunbond in 2 layers (density of at least 60 g/m²).
• Step 8: High-quality fix the agrofibre around the perimeter, for example, with soil, bricks, stones.
• Step 9: When snow falls, you need to cover the shelter with a layer of snow. It is recommended to periodically throw snow on the bushes during the winter, because it is the best natural insulation.

Important! When there is strong warming, it is necessary to open the shelter slightly for ventilation so that the bushes do not become blocked.

Disease and pest control

Plants weakened by diseases overwinter poorly, bloom sparingly and, in the absence of human help, may even die. Therefore, you need to inspect roses from time to time.

Common diseases:

• gray rot;
• rust;
• powdery mildew;
• black spot;
• bacterial cancer.

All fungal diseases of roses can be effectively treated with fungicides. Spraying is carried out when noticing the first signs of the disease, as well as in spring and autumn for preventive purposes.

For example, with black spotting, brown or black spots with a light rim are formed on the leaves. Over time, they merge, causing the death of the leaves. Disease spores spread with the wind. For treatment, the affected bushes and the soil around them are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate. Preventive treatment is carried out in April and autumn, before the onset of frost.

Bacterial cancer cannot be treated with fungicides; a sign of the disease is light growths on the root collar and roots. Over time, they grow and darken, and the rose dies. There are no chemical treatments for this disease; the diseased plant is dug up and destroyed. For prevention purposes, it is recommended to carefully select seedlings when purchasing.

How to store container roses in winter

Container roses can overwinter in the basement and move back into the garden in the spring. But it is important that the containers in which they grow have large holes in the bottom for water drainage. It is also worth taking care of good drainage in advance. The plants themselves should be pruned before being sent for winter: remove leaves and soft shoots.

To plant container roses, choose plastic containers - they are lightweight and easier to move.

For areas with short summers, lack of sun and heat, container roses are an ideal option. Roses in a container awaken faster, grow and bloom well, because their roots are not disturbed by transplantation.

Be sure to take care of your roses in advance, without waiting for frost, then your rose garden will always look great.

Rules for watering and fertilizing

Caring for ground cover representatives of the Rosaceae family is no different from caring for other types of roses

The main attention here needs to be paid to timely watering and fertilizing.

As a rule, bushes are watered in the morning, when the sun's rays do not touch the leaves. When the sun is hot, it is extremely undesirable to water the plants: moisture that gets on the foliage will cause burns. Foliar feeding and spraying carried out in the open sun can lead to the same result.

The queen of the garden is as negative about overwatering as she is about underwatering. Therefore, before watering, it is necessary to check the condition of the soil. If the soil layer has not yet dried to a depth of 3-4 cm, watering should be postponed. For the entire season, it is enough for ground cover roses to fertilize 3 times. The first is carried out in early spring, 2 weeks after the buds open. Fertilizers such as Tsitovit, Agricola, etc. are suitable. The second feeding is carried out after 30 days, and the third - in the fall. When feeding in autumn, only potash fertilizers are used.

Most ground cover varieties, especially low-growing and low-growing ones, do not need additional shelter for the winter, but during a winter with too little snow or severe winters, the likelihood of the bushes freezing is quite high. To reduce the risk of plant death, they can be covered with spruce branches. It is also recommended to build a simple frame from rods and cover it with lutrasil. The air layer will protect the bushes from frost. With proper care, the queen of the garden will delight you with lush flowering for many years.

Pruning roses by type

All roses are conventionally divided into four groups depending on on which shoots the flower buds are formed. An individual pruning system is applied to each group.

Classification of roses by type of pruning:

1. Hybrid tea, miniature, polyanthus, patio and hybrid roses;
2. Climbing (ramblers), some large-flowered, for example, Flamentanz;
3. Park, large-flowered climbing and shrubby species (shrubs);
4. Ground cover, landscape roses.

On rose bushes included in the first group , flower buds form on the shoots of the current year, so they can be trimmed in the fall: for tall species, about 30 cm is left above the soil, and for miniature ones, about 15 cm. These types of roses are quite heat-loving, and, thanks to their short pruning, they are easy to cover for the winter.

Pruning hybrid tea roses

Pruning floribunda roses

Advice. It is important to follow the deadlines for autumn pruning of floribunda, polyantha and hybrid tea roses and not to do it too early. Premature shortening of shoots stimulates the awakening of the buds.

In roses belonging to the second group (ramblers and flamentans), flower buds are formed on the shoots of the second year. In this regard, the vines that have grown during the current growing season are not cut off at all or are only slightly shortened so that there are no difficulties with shelter. The main part of pruning is carried out in the spring, when you can assess the condition of the bush after wintering. In the fall, 3-year-old lashes are completely removed, and 2-year-old ones are partially removed.

Rose scrubs

Most park roses, bush scrubs and large-flowered climbing roses tolerate frosty winters without shelter and require little or no pruning in the fall. It is not carried out for the reason that flowers are formed on almost all shoots (annual, last year and old) so they need to be preserved. To maintain the decorative appearance of the bush, old and broken branches are cut out, and the longest lashes are slightly shortened.

Ground cover roses

Ground cover roses also do not need autumn pruning. The exception is overgrown plants, the lashes of which have gone beyond the territory allotted to them and violated the design of the garden. Plantings that are too thick can be thinned out for better aeration. All the main work on shortening the shoots is planned for the spring months.

Pruning ground cover roses

The most popular varieties

Hello

Hello

Low (about 50 cm), spreading bush. They are distinguished by large, densely double flowers, which during flowering change color from dark red to rich cherry. The flowers are odorless, but with the richest doubleness among ground cover roses. The variety is frost-resistant, immune, blooms profusely.

Swany

Swany
The bushes are tall, 75-80 cm. The crown is spreading, up to 2 m in diameter. The Swany rose stands out for its evergreen small shiny foliage and large umbrella inflorescences. Each contains up to 20 double, white with a pink center, fragrant flowers. Winter-hardy and very decorative shrub.

Ahtiar

Standard rose Ahtiar

A tall bush with long (1.2-1.5 m) flowing arched shoots. Large double flowers are collected in inflorescences. This landscape rose is used to create borders and green hedges, and is grown in a standard culture.

Ballerina

Ballerina

Tall, up to 2 m, bush with a rounded dense crown. Winter-hardy, drought- and disease-resistant. It blooms for a long time, continuously, until the onset of frost. Simple flowers are collected in brushes. The petals are white in the center, turning pink towards the edges. During flowering, the flowers increase in size and become somewhat lighter. They have a delicate musky aroma.

Scarlet

Scarlet

One of the most hardy and adaptive varieties. The bushes are low, up to half a meter. The foliage is dark and glossy. The flowers are double, deep red. Blooms profusely all summer and autumn

Fairy

Fairy

The seedlings quickly take root, the shoots grow actively and in a short time form dense thickets up to 60 cm high. White, sometimes with a pink tint, double flowers are collected in clusters of 30-40 pieces. They bloom from July until frost.

Amber Sun

Amber Sun

Spreading branched bushes, 50-60 cm in height and width. The branches are drooping. Small semi-double fragrant flowers of all shades of yellow - from copper at the beginning of flowering to cream at the end. Valued for long flowering, cheerful decorativeness, resistance to frost and rose diseases.

Matador

Matador

Low (up to half a meter) compact bushes. Scarlet semi-double flowers are grouped in racemes. One of the earliest flowering varieties, extremely resistant to diseases and tolerant of environmental conditions. Often planted in hanging pots and containers.

Fiona

Fiona

A strong bush up to 85 cm, with long arched branches. The fragrant flowers are double, bright pink, medium-sized, collected in inflorescences. Blooms profusely from early June until frost. Winter-hardy immune variety.

Which roses are ground cover?

In principle, ground cover plants are plants that, despite their short stature, are capable of growing in width, increasing the area they occupy. But they grow less intensively in height. Roses can also be like this: if they are groundcovers, they are distinguished by twisting stems up to 2 m long. During flowering, drooping shoots acquire brush-shaped inflorescences. The flowers of ground cover roses vary in color - from white and cream to pink and red; when in bloom, they reach from 1 to 5 cm in diameter. The leaves of these roses are also small, but have a decorative appearance and are able to remain on the bush until winter.

Ground cover includes not only creeping roses - there are also taller plants among them. The main distinguishing feature of ground cover roses is that their width is always greater than their height. And they are more unpretentious to grow than ordinary roses. By the way, this same feature is characteristic of other plants of this species.

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Ground cover roses - description

For the most part, ground cover roses are dwarf plants that spread along the ground. Some gardeners successfully grow them in pots to decorate terraces, gazebos or walls of houses.

Ground cover roses have gained popularity due to their long flowering, because with proper and regular care they are able to amaze all summer with a riot of colors and the splendor of flower shapes. You can use plants as much as your imagination allows - to decorate a courtyard building, create a chic hedge, or decorate a flower garden with a bright, original element.

The Germans are considered the very first breeders of beautiful plants, and they introduced some classification. The following groups are distinguished:

• with long curly shoots;
• with falling branches;
• with creeping, decomposed shoots;
• low bushes with wide scattering;
• compact small bushes with short twining vines.

Propagation of carpet roses

All varieties of these beautiful flowers reproduce mainly vegetatively - by layering, cuttings, dividing the bush, and root suckers. When breeding ground cover species, gardeners most often use cuttings and layering, since these methods allow you to obtain new, well-developed bushes in a short time and without investment.

By layering

Roses that creep along the ground reproduce independently by layering - the lashes take root in the knee. If you want to help them, then it will be enough to bury the long shoot along with the buds with soil, leaving the end of the lash outside. The twig located in the ground is watered abundantly all summer. By autumn, the shoot will grow its own root system. Then it is separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a new place or moved to a pot so that the young bush overwinters in more comfortable conditions.

Cuttings

You can increase the population of ground cover roses in your area using cuttings. To do this, cuttings 15-20 centimeters long are cut from faded one-year-old semi-lignified shoots. Each cutting should have a smooth trunk, 2-3 internodes and the same number of buds.

Note!

Cuttings are cut from the middle part of the shoot. The ends of the branches are not suitable for cuttings, since they have not yet matured, which means that such cuttings will require much more time for rooting.

Before rooting, the cuttings are cleared of thorns and leaves. The lower part of the branch is dipped in a growth stimulator and planted in light nutritious soil consisting of sand, humus (or peat and compost). The cuttings are deepened into the ground by 2-3 centimeters, so that the lower bud is located very close to the surface. The cuttings are rooted in a small ditch or nursery covered with film on top. To activate growth, the microclimate of the improvised greenhouse must be warm and humid.

If rooting was carried out in the spring (from pre-prepared cuttings), then the planting of roses for permanent residence is carried out in the fall with obligatory shelter for the winter. When cuttings are taken in the fall, young bushes are planted in open ground only next spring, as soon as the ground has warmed up sufficiently. In the first year, it is necessary to remove ripening buds and monitor the moisture and cleanliness of the soil.

Planting and caring for a flower

Roses grow in one place for many years. They have their own requirements for conditions of detention. Therefore, the place for plants is carefully selected. The decorative quality of the bushes depends on the work being done correctly.

Site selection and preparation

A place is selected that is illuminated in the morning and evening, and shaded at noon. The scorching sun can cause the petals of the inflorescences to burn out. They are planted away from high walls and fences. If the soil is wet, drainage pipes are installed on the site.

Ground cover roses prefer to grow in loam. Peat, sand, and compost are added to heavy soil. If the soil is too light or sandy, it is weighted down with clay and turf. Otherwise, moisture will quickly drain from the root system deep into the ground. Limestone is added to acidic soil.

Preparing the seedling

Thin, weak branches and broken roots are trimmed from the bush. An oblique cut is made above the bud located outside the shoot. To ensure that the root system is saturated with moisture, it is placed in a container of water. Potassium permanganate powder is added for disinfection.

Dates and seating charts

Ground cover roses are planted in the ground in spring or autumn. The period depends on climatic conditions. In cold areas, it is better to plant in the spring so that the bushes have time to take root before the onset of frost. In the southern regions, planting in the fall is allowed.

Planting is done as follows:

• dig a hole with a depth and diameter of 50-70 centimeters;
• a layer of drainage material is laid on the bottom;
• fertile soil is poured into a mound;
• a seedling is placed vertically in the middle;
• Cover with soil and water abundantly.

The distance between the bushes is set depending on the variety of roses, as well as their purpose in the design of the site.

Watering mode

Immediately after planting, watering is carried out frequently. Subsequently, the land is irrigated after the top layer of soil has dried. Water ground cover roses in the morning or evening. At least 10 liters of water are added under the bush. Overhead irrigation is not recommended because it promotes disease.

Top dressing

When leaves begin to appear on the shoots in the spring, the first feeding is carried out. A mixture of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus is used. Before flowering, complex mineral fertilizer is applied. If a rose blooms several times during the season, then each time it is fed during the budding period. During the dissolution of inflorescences, the soil is not fertilized. Potassium is added in the fall.

Mulching, loosening and weeding

Ground cover roses have spreading shoots, so caring for them is a little problematic. The crop needs loosening and weeding of the soil, and this is difficult to do. Therefore, immediately after planting, the soil in the tree trunk circle is mulched. The covering material helps retain moisture and prevents the growth of weeds.

Pruning and shaping the bush

A bush planted in autumn should be lightly pruned in spring. This stimulates the formation of many lateral branches. In the future, only shoots that thicken the crown are cut off. In addition, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing dry, broken, diseased stems. Once every 5 years, the bushes are rejuvenated, leaving cut shoots 25 centimeters high above the ground. Experienced gardeners do not recommend pruning for the winter.

Preventative treatments

To prevent the appearance of diseases and pests from the root circle, it is necessary to remove dried foliage and plant debris. It is advisable to dig up the soil around the roses in the fall. Fungicides are used to prevent and treat diseases. Insecticides will save you from harmful insects.

Preparing for winter

In the south, ground cover roses can winter safely without shelter. Especially if winter-hardy varieties are planted. In the northern regions, a frame is built over the bushes and covered with lutrasil. If the shoots are long, they are bent to the ground. To prevent the stems from rotting, spruce branches are placed under them.

Features of cultivation

Even a novice gardener can plant similar plants on his plot and grow them successfully. Ground cover roses are kept according to the same rules as other flowers.

Choosing a landing site

Flowers are demanding on growing conditions. Factors affecting the growth of rose bushes:

• illumination;
• temperature regime;
• soil moisture;
• pH level;
• planting density;
• proximity to other plants.

The shrubs grow well, bloom profusely and for a long time in sunny areas, although they feel quite comfortable in light partial shade. It is advisable to choose a place in the garden so that the sun's rays illuminate the plants only in the first half of the day, and in the afternoon they are shaded from the scorching summer sun, from which the foliage and color of the petals fade. Optimal soil moisture is equally important for flowers. It is most rational to place the rose garden on a slight slope - this way the level of humidity and evaporation will create an ideal proportion. It’s even better if you raise the flower bed 40-50 centimeters from the general surface of the garden. This placement will protect the flowers from frost, since it is known that cold air accumulates in lowlands.

Important!

The slope of the site should be 7-11 degrees to the southeast or west.

Landscape designers prefer to place roses next to tall shrubs and trees. This way the composition looks much more impressive, and at the same time, tall neighbors create a life-saving shadow and protect from the wind. However, seedlings should not be planted too close to giant plants, as the latter will take away all the nutrients from the roses, thereby inhibiting their development and flowering. You should also not place a rose garden near the walls of a house or a high, blind fence - the root system in such places develops slowly, the shoots do not have growth force, and few flowers are formed on such plants. In addition, roses planted in the “wrong” places often suffer from fungal diseases, since constant shade and poor ventilation create excessive humidity. Roses, on the other hand, cannot tolerate excess water in the soil, due to which virtually no oxygen gets inside, which in turn affects the roots. You can lighten the soil slightly with a gravel bed. In addition, dense soils have high acidity, which also affects the viability of roses.

Attention!

The optimal acidity level for roses is 5.5-6.5 pH.

Roses are also picky about temperature. If they are uncomfortable, they immediately react by dropping the ovaries or stopping flowering. So, in the flower garden area the air should be warmed up by 15-22 degrees. The optimal soil temperature is 17-20 degrees. If the soil is too hot, roses stop growing. Mulching with peat or sawdust will help to avoid this situation. Too cold soil leads to freezing and death of the roots. Therefore, you should not rush to plant ground cover roses, but rather wait for the most suitable climatic conditions.

When planning a rose garden, it is important to know what plants grew in this area in past years. It is unacceptable to arrange a rose garden where roses or rosaceae have previously grown - pear, apricot, serviceberry, cherry and others. This rule is due to the fact that the soil here is severely depleted. If there is no other place to set up a front garden, then you can place flowers in the place of the old flower garden, but on condition that the soil to a depth of 50 centimeters is completely replaced with more fertile one.

Soil preparation

The best soil for ground cover flowers is loamy, well-filled with organic matter and minerals, and has high water and breathability. In sandy soil, due to sudden temperature changes, the roots suffer, seedlings do not take root well and grow weak. You can saturate depleted soil by adding “heavy” dense components - compost, peat, clay, turf. At the same time, too dense, clayey soil is diluted with sand, peat, humus, and chicken droppings.

Roses are usually planted in April-May. In this case, preparatory work on the site begins in the fall. When deep digging the earth in autumn (digging depth is 35 centimeters), organic materials (compost, old manure or peat) and superphosphate or phosphate rock are added. Excess soil acidity is neutralized with lime.

Important!

Applying fertilizers in advance of the planting procedure is necessary so that all nutrients have time to be evenly distributed within the soil.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Young rose seedlings are purchased from specialized nurseries. A high-quality seedling should have a highly developed rhizome with a large number of small shoots and at least three thick semi-lignified shoots with leaves and buds. Before planting, all leaves are torn off.

Seedlings that grow best in a container or pot, that is, with a closed root system, take root best. If the roots are in the open air, they often dry out and become brittle, and this prevents them from merging normally with the ground. Some rose growers recommend planting roses in nets, but such a “container” does not always contain the roots properly - the root shoots often bend upward and break.

Therefore, experts advise removing seedlings from the nursery and planting them with bare roots. The integrity of the earthen coma can be left intact and roses can be planted using the transshipment method. To stimulate root growth, cuts up to 2 centimeters deep are made in several places.

If seedlings with an open root system are used for planting, then before planting the roots are shortened by 1/3 (up to 30 centimeters), and all incapacitated shoots are also removed. If the roots are partially dry, they must be soaked in water for 24 hours. You can add potassium permanganate to the water for disinfection. Already before the planting procedure, the roots are dipped into a clay-dung mash, and the ground organs are treated with copper sulfate.

Landing dates

Ground cover roses can be planted in spring and autumn. For regions with mild winters, it is preferable to plant flowers in open ground in the autumn. In the central part of Russia and Siberia, roses are planted mainly in the spring.

Spring planting

In spring, flowers are planted in April-early May, when it becomes warm enough outside and the soil warms up to optimal levels. If the weather does not allow planting flowers on time, then the seedlings are placed in a bucket with moistened sand under a film cover. Roses are planted in deep holes, the bottom of which is covered with sand. The seedlings are placed on the inclined side of the hole. When pruning in spring, the shoots of the seedlings are cut off so that 2-3 buds remain on them.

Autumn planting

In autumn, landscape roses are usually planted from mid-October to the second ten days of October, so that the seedlings have time to take root before the onset of frost. With this type of planting, the shoots of the seedlings are not cut off, but only slightly shortened. This is done in order not to stimulate the plants to grow - in the autumn-winter period the flower should be in a dormant state.

Technology for planting ground cover roses

Rose seedlings are planted in planting holes or trenches, which are dug in advance: if planting is done in the spring, then they are dug in the fall and vice versa. The distance between the pits should be at least 30 centimeters. The depth of the hole is 50-70 centimeters (roses have very long roots), the diameter is 50 centimeters. The bottom of the hole is drained with a layer of gravel (if the soil is dense) or a 10-centimeter layer of clay is laid (if the soil is sandy). The bottom of the planting hole is loosened so that the roots easily penetrate into the soil layers. A couple of weeks before planting flowers, the holes are supplied with minerals and organic matter. On the day of planting, the hole is watered generously.

The bushes must be placed in the hole in such a way that all the roots look down and do not bend upward. To do this, a small mound is poured in the center of the hole and root shoots are laid out along its slopes. The soil is poured in parts, shaking the cuttings periodically so that all the voids are clogged with earth. The root collar or grafting site should remain underground at a depth of 4-5 centimeters. The surface is well compacted from above, watered with warm water and hilled to stimulate the formation of new roots. For the first 7-10 days, the planted seedlings should be under a tent - shading will contribute to better survival. As soon as shoots appear next to the bush, it is unplanted.

Rules for choosing a place and landing

Rules for planting ground cover roses.

Roses with creeping shoots are considered very undemanding, but several basic factors that will be taken into account when planting a plant will allow you to achieve good bush formation and lush flowering. The development and growth of the bush is influenced by:

• light level;
• soil slope;
• ambient temperature;
• soil moisture;
• planting density;
• soil acidity.

In order for the rose to receive the required amount of light and nutrients, while simultaneously forming a large number of buds, it must be planted in such a way that in the first half of the day the bush is in the sun, and in the hottest time of the day it is shaded by other plants. Placing the bush on soil with a slope of about 10° will create a natural drainage of water, eliminating the need for drainage.

But at the same time, it is undesirable to place bushes next to other massive garden crops: they will not only take moisture and nutrition from the plant, but also unnecessarily shade it. A rose planted in the shade, near the walls of a house, etc., forms shoots without buds, is affected by diseases, becomes weak and faded.

If bushes are planted in flower beds raised 40-50 cm above the soil level, this automatically increases their frost resistance, since, according to the laws of physics, cold air accumulates in low-lying places without affecting the hills.

When planting a bush, great attention must be paid to soil moisture. Roses do not tolerate dampness well, so organizing a gravel-sand cushion in a hole intended for planting will significantly reduce the risk of death and disease.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the type of soil: loamy soil is considered optimal, creating ideal conditions for transporting oxygen, moisture and nutrients to the roots of the plant. Sandy, rocky, clayey and other heavy soils are not very suitable for planting rosaceae. You can improve the condition of the soil by adding sand, compost, peat, turf soil, rotted chicken or rabbit droppings.

The time for planting rose seedlings depends on climatic conditions: for regions with warm weather, autumn planting is preferable, for areas with cold winters - spring planting. Soil acidity should vary between 5.5 and 6.5 pH.

To prevent weed thickets from forming underneath as the plant grows, experts recommend carefully treating the entire area that the overgrown bush will occupy. The plant is planted in a hole with a depth of 50 to 70 cm. For mass planting, you can dig a trench 50 cm wide. The required depth of the hole is determined as follows: the length of the roots of the planting material + 15 cm. After planting, the seedling must be well watered. Depending on the plant variety, it is not recommended to place more than 1-3 seedlings per 1 m².

Basic requirements for the landing site

The growing conditions for roses are almost the same for all varieties. It should be in a well-lit, open area, away from tall buildings and trees. For planting creeping roses, it is advisable to provide a slight elevation, which will protect the plant from stagnation of melt water in the spring. Many varieties of ground cover roses have rather long branches, up to two meters. They can be used to decorate verandas and gazebos like weaving varieties. These varieties also look attractive in flowerpots, among compositions of stones and other architectural delights.

The future landing site must meet the following requirements:

• Good soil aeration.
• Light shading during sunny periods.
• Western or southeastern direction.
• Enough space for further growth.

It is preferable to plant roses on black soil or light loams. Too loose sandstones do not retain moisture and nutrients well, so it is recommended to add some clay to them. For heavy soils, it is best to use peat and humus as an additional ingredient.

Best care tips

Ground cover roses are less demanding than other varieties. This gives a good chance to grow luxurious flowers even for gardening beginners. At the same time, long-term flowering and active growth of bushes can be achieved only if all the “whims” of the garden beauty are fulfilled. To do this, you need to know what conditions are necessary for this plant, as well as useful nuances for successful cultivation.

Secrets of success for ground cover roses:

Fertilizing should only be done the next year after planting. The frequency of adding minerals is determined individually. In general, 5-7 feedings must be used per season. Ground cover roses are also very susceptible to foliar feeding, which can be alternated with conventional ones. In early spring, the bushes are fed with nitrogen fertilizers. For this, rotted manure, humus or ammonium nitrate is used. Before fertilizing, the plant is well watered. Before the formation of buds, sodium humate or potassium sulfate is added. This will give the plant the necessary strength to bloom. During flowering, fertilizers are not applied, this can damage the bush. After flowering, it is necessary to remove old buds from the plant, and then feed it well with potassium and phosphorus complexes. Re-blooming varieties need to use at least two feedings with a break of 10 days. At the end of the season, fertilize three times, the main purpose of which is to give the plant an additional margin of safety for a successful winter. At the end of summer, organic matter is used, after two weeks - phosphorus complexes, after another two - potassium

It is important to finish feeding about a month before the onset of real frost, so the timing can be determined by your climatic region. Roses are also pruned the next year after planting. This stimulates the formation of side shoots and the creation of an attractive bush shape.

The cutting areas must be treated with garden varnish, and the bush itself must be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture to prevent infection of the branches. Approximately once every five years it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning of the bush. To do this, all shoots are shortened to 20-25 centimeters, and the middle of the bush is thinned out. The disadvantage is the loss of decorativeness, but the next season the plant will thank the owner with lush flowering and active growth. Watering garden roses must be done with plenty of pre-settled water. On average, each bush will need 10 liters of water. At the same time, waterlogging is not allowed, as a result of which the plant can rot and become sick. Loosening the bush is desirable, but difficult to do for old plants. The root area must be mulched and cared for whenever possible. It is more advisable to simply spray and water heavily overgrown bushes, and loosen them when pruning or fertilizing.

The video below will tell you a lot of useful information about growing ground cover roses.

Why prune roses in the fall

Pruning is an essential step in caring for roses. It promotes the proper formation of the bush, ensures its aeration, and for some species it is the main stimulating event that ensures abundant flowering next year.

Three main reasons why you should prune roses in the fall:

1. Shortened plant vines are easier to cover for the winter than long ones. This is especially true for species with erect stems, which are difficult to bend to the soil without damaging them;
2. The frost resistance of plants increases, since the upper part of the crown, most susceptible to freezing, is removed;
3. Pruning promotes the formation of large flowers.

In addition to these main ones, we can name several more secondary reasons in favor of autumn pruning of roses. For example, a flower garden in winter looks more well-groomed when there are no branches with dried leaves sticking out of the ground. In addition, hybrids that bloom throughout the summer enter a dormant state more easily after shortening.

Bush after wintering

The best varieties of ground cover roses for growing in open ground

Self-rooted roses - what are they, varieties

To decorate summer cottages and gardens, flower growers are looking for varieties of ground cover roses that are characterized by ease of cultivation and care, abundant flowering and rapid growth. However, to find suitable varieties, several criteria must be taken into account.

Note! When improving the quality of roses, breeders sought to increase flowering time and increase resistance to cold. As a result, varieties have been bred that will delight with flowers throughout the summer. Winter-hardy varieties will be a godsend for residents of Central Russia and the northern part of Russia.

Blooming all summer

Long-blooming roses include:

• Fair Play with bright pink flowers (poorly adapted to rainy weather);
• Ballerina with abundantly branching bushes and white flowers with a pink border;
• Amber Viel, characterized by its small size and spherical flowers of a yellow or amber hue;
• Matador with a large number (up to 15 pcs.) of light pink flowers (does not like wind);
• Amber San, whose shoots are densely branched and tightly cover the soil (yellow flowers).

Winter-hardy varieties

Roses that are not afraid of cold weather include:

• Fiona with bright red double flowers, able to withstand frosts down to −28 ° C;
• Hallow, less than 0.6 m high, which covers the ground with a carpet of densely double dark red inflorescences (will tolerate temperatures dropping to −30 ° C);
• snow-white variety Snow Ballet, withstands −40 °C (does not like rain).

Varieties for the Moscow region

The climatic features of the Moscow region are suitable for growing:

• Super Dorothy, Mirato, Knirps (pink flowers);
• Lilac rain;
• Bessie (with orange petals);
• snow-white Blanca Maidiland.

For your information! The best roses are grown in the Tantau nursery, which is a world-famous manufacturer. By purchasing seedlings from Tantau, you can be sure of good flower immunity and high aesthetic characteristics.

Trimming methods

Pruning is carried out in three ways. They depend on the length of the stem, the branching of the bush and the type:

• Short pruning is used for polyanthus and small-flowered species. During this pruning, 2-3 buds are left. It is rarely carried out, because there is a risk of the bush freezing.
• Medium pruning is most often used. The bushes are pruned to 35 cm from ground level, 5-7 buds remain on the branch. It is used for all types of roses, with the exception of climbing and ground cover roses.
• Long pruning is suitable when the buds are located on the top of the shoot. Roses are pruned a little or not at all. This pruning is suitable for large-flowered varieties.

Ground cover roses, varieties with photos

Since it is simply unrealistic to describe all the varieties of these roses, I would like to mention only a few of them, which are quite remarkable in my opinion.

I really like the Drift series of ground cover roses.

This series was created by crossing Meilland landscape roses with miniature ones. The resulting varieties inherited disease resistance and frost resistance from the former, and compactness and long-term abundant flowering from the latter. Drift ground cover roses are compact and profusely blooming. Almost all varieties of this series bloom until late autumn.

Pink Drift

A simple rosette with deep pink, non-double flowers with a light center and yellow stamens. There is almost no aroma. But it blooms all summer. There is no need to cut or remove faded flowers, it seems to self-clean and forms such a neat bush, which is “wider than taller.” Care is minimal; in the conditions of the south of Russia there is no shelter for the winter.

Icy Drift

This rose grows as if diagonally. Also not covered, it grows like a “rug” and spreads quite widely. There is no aroma. And why do such roses need a smell? You’ll get tired of bending over. Blooms almost constantly.

Red Drift

The flowers are bright red, small, double. Forms a rounded bush. It blooms almost constantly, is not capricious, and does not get sick. I don't hide.

Popcorn Drift

Flowering is very abundant, repeated, lasting until frost. The flowers are collected in inflorescences; on one peduncle during the period of mass flowering there are 6-15 flowers at the same time. The bush is compact, approximately 50x50 cm. When I first saw a flowering bush of this rose, I was amazed at what a good name they gave to this variety. The flowers are remarkably similar to popcorn: the buds are the color of yellow corn, and the blooming flower is the color of popped corn. An absolutely unpretentious rose, thanks to its color, can be combined with any other rose.

I absolutely love these roses! Maybe you'll like them too.

In conclusion, I would like to add that you will not find such a variety of varieties as in ground cover roses, as well as shapes, textures and shades of petals, in “pink” representatives of other species. They can be called universal, because growing and caring for ground cover roses on the site brings only advantages. The purchased and planted plant will delight you for many years, with minimal care on your part.

Features of flower care in autumn

The main task of gardeners is that with the onset of autumn, these flowering perennials stop growing the above-ground parts. To do this, from mid-summer you should change the composition of the fertilizers applied to these flowers. But the first step in caring for roses in the fall is pruning them.

Pruning in autumn

Do you need to prune roses for the winter, and why? Beginning flower growers often ask a similar question. The answer is simple - you need to prune roses for the winter in order to make it easier to cover these flowers. This is especially true for hybrid tea and standard varieties, which can reach 1.8-2.0 m in height. It is difficult to cover such tall plants completely, so roses need to be cut by about half in the fall so that the shoots are not damaged by frost.

The need for autumn pruning and timing

As mentioned above, the main thing in pruning roses in the fall is to reduce the height of the above-ground part so that it can be safely covered for the winter. When is the best time to prune flowers in the fall, the lunar calendar will tell gardeners. Experienced flower growers recommend pruning these flowering perennials on the waning moon.

Trimming methods, step-by-step instructions and cutting diagram

When pruning in autumn, all shoots are removed by about half. How to prune roses for the winter? It is necessary to adhere to the basic rules for carrying out this agrotechnical event:

• all cuts on the shoots are made at an angle of 45 degrees;
• weak, damaged, dried shoots are removed;
• to cut branches, you must use sharp tools so as not to injure the branches;
• remove all white sprouts.

The cut areas should be treated with any antiseptic; you can use ordinary fresh wood ash. This must be done to prevent the penetration of dangerous microorganisms.

Video: how to properly prune roses for the winter.

Feeding the “queen of flowers” ​​after autumn pruning

After pruning roses in the fall, the bushes of the plant should be fed for the last time for the season. But from the moment of pruning to such feeding, at least 14-18 days must pass so that the bushes can recover after removing excess shoots.

Since all varieties are distinguished by abundant long flowering, at the end of it the bushes need to replenish their supply of nutrients. But it should be remembered that from the beginning of flowering until the end of the season, nitrogen is excluded from the fertilizer composition, which provokes active growth of the vegetative mass.

In the fall, all these flowering perennials are fertilized with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, which strengthen the root system and shoots and stop the growth of the above-ground parts.

5-7 days after fertilizing, pinch off the tops of the shoots. This will speed up the process of lignification of the stems.

The nuances of pruning for the winter

Before the onset of the cold season, shoots of the following varieties of roses should be cut in half for the winter:

• floribundas;
• hybrid tea varieties;
• miniature;
• polyanthaceae.

Climbing roses with large flowers and shrub roses are cut to 1/3 of the length of the shoots. But rose bushes with small flowers don’t need to be pruned at all; you just need to pinch their growing points.

Climbing roses are usually not pruned in the fall; if necessary, only sanitary pruning can be done.

If you follow all the rules and nuances, pruning flowers in the fall will be easy even for beginners and inexperienced gardeners.

The subtleties of pruning roses before covering: 5 steps to success

At the moment, in rose gardening literature and practice, there are two main directions in preparing roses for winter, which generally boil down to the question: “to cut or not?” .

1 step. Determine what kind of rose you have

To make it easier for you to interact with the queen of the garden and understand how to care for roses, it will be useful for novice rose growers to study a simple classification of roses, knowledge of which will help you figure out how, what and when to prune in the fall, and then in the spring.

• Rosa Canina (dog rose);
• Rosa Rugosa (Rugosa rose or wrinkled rose);
• Musk rose and its hybrids;
• Rosa Glauca;
• Rosa Rubiginosa et al.

2. Antique Roses:

• Alba;
• Damask roses;
• Centifolia roses;
• Bourbon roses;
• Portland;
• Noisette roses (single and repeat blooming).

3. Modern groups of roses (roses that appeared after 1867, when the first hybrid tea rose variety La France from Guillot was created).

• hybrid tea;
• floribunda;
• climbing (climbers and ramblers);
• miniature and patio;
• ground cover (polyanthus);
• scrubs;
• grandiflora.

Timing of pruning

Pruning should be done before covering the roses before the onset of severe cold, preferably on a dry, sunny day. Pruning period: mid-October - mid-November, but the deadline may be shifted depending on the region. Roses are pruned based on the night temperature. It must drop steadily to -5°C, otherwise pruning will provoke awakening.

The correct cut of a rose shoot