Maintaining density: what is the difference between the scheme of planting cucumbers in a greenhouse and in open ground

General schemes for planting cucumber bushes

Cucumber plantings can be single-line or double-line. The traditional one-line scheme for greenhouses is simple: the beds are located at a distance of at least 70 cm, and the holes are made at intervals of 20-40 cm, depending on the bushiness of the variety.

The two-line scheme for planting cucumbers in a greenhouse allows you to plant two lines of cucumbers on one wide bed with an interval of 40-50 cm, placing the holes at intervals of 20-40 cm along the line. The passages are left 70-90 cm wide.

Using this scheme, you can place more bushes per unit area. At the same time, it is not recommended to thicken plantings with more than 4-5 bushes per 1 m2 of greenhouse. Some gardeners advise placing especially large tall bushes no more than 2-3 per 1 m2.

Planting seedlings using the vertical method

Disembarkation stages:

1. Holes are made in pre-prepared beds and filled with water slightly warmer than room temperature.
2. The seedlings are carefully planted in the resulting depressions to avoid damaging the roots.
3. The optimal length between bushes is 25 cm, row spacing is 45 cm, between rows 2 and 3 is 85 cm.
4. Cucumbers are planted in holes along with soil on the roots.
5. The recess level is the same as in the container.
6. After planting, water is poured under the root, the temperature of which is more than 24°C.
7. After watering, a rope is pulled from the root to the top of the greenhouse so that the cucumbers grow upward. It is considered effective to create systems of rope weaves, wire or any available means for supports.

The planting scheme in this case is 8 bushes per 1 m². This method is used when there is limited space in the greenhouse. Also, the vertical growing method makes it easier to care for the bushes.

The downside of vertical beds is that the soil dries out. Cucumbers are a moisture-loving crop, so when using this method, the plants are watered more often.

Schemes for planting cucumbers in greenhouses of different widths

Depending on the width of the greenhouse, approaches to placing beds change. We offer you schemes that will allow you to plant the maximum number of bushes, provided the walls are smooth. Options are presented for longitudinal placement of beds along the length of the greenhouse.

Planting cucumbers in greenhouses 2-3 m wide

• In a two-meter greenhouse, only two two-row beds can be compactly placed. In this case, for example, with an interval between holes of 40 cm in a greenhouse 6 m long, it will be possible to plant 56 bushes, which corresponds to the optimal number of plants for a greenhouse with an area of ​​12 m2.
• With a width of 2.5 m, you can also create only 2 beds with planting cucumbers in two lines. In this case, you can leave a greater distance to the walls or a wider passage. And to increase the number of bushes to the maximum possible on an area of ​​15 m2, you can leave a distance of 35 cm between the holes.
• With a width of 3 m, you can use a two-line scheme for planting cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse on three beds. You will get 6 landing lines. Considering that the optimal number of bushes in a greenhouse 6 m long will be 72-90, with such a layout of the beds you can leave an interval between holes of 35-40 cm.

Planting cucumbers in a 4 m wide greenhouse

You can use two schemes for planting cucumbers in a 4-meter wide polycarbonate greenhouse:

1. Three two-row beds with a total number of planting lines of 6. To place the maximum possible number of bushes in the greenhouse, the distance between the holes in each line is 30-35 cm.
2. Two double-row beds on the edge and three single beds in the central part of the greenhouse (or, alternatively, single beds in the center and along the edges, and two double-row beds between them). In this case, it will be possible to place 7 planting lines, but the distance between the bushes in the line can be left 30-40 cm.

At what distance should cucumbers be planted when planting in open ground and a greenhouse?

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The productivity of a plant depends not only on a sunny location and good watering. It is required to follow the basic rules, which dictate at what distance cucumbers should be planted, and which planting methods are best suited in specific situations. The correct choice of placement scheme is one of the necessary conditions for obtaining an excellent harvest.

In order for cucumbers to fully develop, it is necessary to leave the same intervals as for adult plants when sowing seeds and planting seedlings in a permanent place.

When planting cucumbers in open ground, the planting scheme usually involves a one- or two-line method. To provide plants with comfortable and protected conditions, they are placed on warm, steam and regular beds, on ridges, in warm pits or on trellises.

Regardless of the growing method, the place for cucumbers should be warm, well-lit, sheltered from drafts and cold winds. It is also important that pumpkin crops are not previously located in this place - due to the increased risk of transmission of common diseases and pests.

Sowing seeds

Seeds are sown in open ground only after the soil has completely warmed up and leveled warm (!) beds have been arranged. Sowing is done in well-drained furrows or holes, 2 dry or sprouted seeds each.

With a single-line planting scheme, an interval of 15-18 cm is usually maintained between the holes. After the emergence of seedlings, the line is thinned out and then, as the plants grow, their lashes are spread in different directions - for example, 1, 3, 5... bush - to the right side, 2, 4, 6... - to the left (see Fig. 4).

With a planting scheme in two rows, the gap between the holes with seeds can also be 15-18 cm, between lines - 50-70 cm, between rows - 80 cm. If there is a lot of planting material, the seeds can be sown thicker, every 5-6 cm in line. The recommended distance between lines is 50-70 cm.

Scheme for planting cucumbers in open ground with mulching of the soil. This method allows you to grow cucumbers without tedious weed control. Experienced gardeners know from personal experience that weeds grow much faster than representatives of garden crops and have a more developed root system, and this greatly complicates weeding the beds and caring for cucumbers.

Plastic film spread on the garden bed will prevent the growth of weeds and help keep the fruits lying on the ground clean and intact. For mulching, a film with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm and a width of 140-150 cm is usually used. In the absence of film material, paper can be used.

Before planting seedlings in open ground, the prepared area is covered with a film sheet, the edges of which are dug into the ground on each side by 20-25 cm. Then, cross-shaped cuts of 10x10 cm or holes of a similar diameter are made in the remaining sheet of mulch (respectively a meter wide).

At the end of the summer season, the film can be reused next year. After the last harvest is harvested, it is dug up, removed from the beds, thoroughly washed, dried and put away until spring.

Some gardeners who grow cucumbers in open ground prefer not to tie them up, but practice shows that the use of trellises not only saves space on the site, but also makes caring for the plants much easier.

Typically, trellises are installed even before planting seedlings, erecting a wire-twine frame on the beds. Seedlings are planted in rows spaced 70-80 cm apart. The gap between seedling bushes can vary from 30 to 40 cm.

Wire is pulled along the rows at a height of 150-200 cm (it can be replaced with a strong nylon cord). About a week after planting, twine is attached to the wire, lowering it to each plant. At the bottom, the twine is either tied with a spacious loop over the 2nd and 3rd sheets, or fixed on a peg driven into the ground.

An alternative to trellises can be an original mesh structure that serves as a support for cucumber vines. Climbing up and clinging to the mesh cells with their tendrils, the cucumbers will envelop the structure, forming a nice emerald “hut”. Harvesting, as well as care, watering and pest control, in this case will be easy and simple.

To implement this method, two beds are erected with an interval of 1 m from one another. Having retreated an equal distance from the edge of each, two stakes of the same height are driven between them on both sides and the crossbar is secured to them. A net is thrown over the crossbar, stretched and fixed on poles located along the beds with cucumbers. The distance between the bushes, depending on the characteristics of the variety/hybrid, should be 25-40 cm (see Figure 6).

When growing cucumbers of bee-pollinated varieties in open ground, it is advisable to take care of attracting pollinating insects to the site. Fragrant flowers and plants (alissum, sweet peas, sweet tobacco, sage) that can be planted near the garden do an excellent job of this task.

Not a single garden plot is complete without cucumber beds. Cucumbers are loved by everyone, both fresh and canned. A good harvest depends on the planting method and the correct arrangement of plants in the bed. In this review we will talk about planting schemes, how to plant correctly and at what distance.

To obtain abundant harvests, it is important to observe the timing of planting seedlings or seeds in the greenhouse. A good harvest requires a competent approach to planting cucumbers, taking into account the optimal distance between seedlings. This will contribute to their comfortable and full development.

Cucumber bushes should be planted at least 20-30 cm apart

The consequences of thickened planting of cucumbers are:

• stretching of plants due to insufficient lighting, which leads to a decrease in yield;
• poor ventilation of dense plantings leads to air stagnation and excess evaporated moisture, which creates comfortable conditions for the development of fungal diseases and the proliferation of pests;
• Excessive air humidity in greenhouses thickened with plantings leads to moisture settling on flowers, their rotting, and the formation of a large number of barren flowers even on self-pollinating varieties.

When planting cucumbers sparsely:

• The useful area of ​​greenhouses is used irrationally, which leads to a shortage of crops and is not economically profitable.

At what distance and how many centimeters should I plant cucumbers? The distance between the bushes in the greenhouse depends on the growing period, the type of fruit (gherkin or long-fruited), and the degree of climbing inherent in a given variety. The optimal location is considered to be 3-4 cucumber plants per 1 m2 of greenhouse. The distance in the row between the holes with cucumbers should be 0.4-0.6 m, the passage between the rows should be at least 0.9 m.

Scheme of planting cucumbers in a greenhouse

In polycarbonate greenhouses, in order to save usable space and increase productivity, cucumbers are grown vertically (by tying the growing vines to a vertical support), so the minimum distance between bushes can be taken as 0.4 m.

The distance from the walls of the greenhouse to the cucumber seedlings must be at least 0.25 m to ensure good air circulation and sufficient heat for the plants in cold weather and frosts. The walls of the greenhouse heat up quickly and cool down just as quickly. Therefore, the close location of cucumber plantings to them can lead to overheating and burns of seedlings or their freezing.

In greenhouses and hotbeds for growing cucumbers, three schemes are used:

• two-line (two-row);
• staggered landing
• single-line (single-row).

Variety of cucumber planting schemes

The choice of planting scheme for cucumbers depends on the development characteristics of the selected variety, its ability to grow leaf mass, the height of the bush, the number and size of side shoots.

It is preferable to grow vigorously growing hybrids in single-line rows, weakly branched and long-fruited ones in two-line rows. When planted in a checkerboard pattern, all seedlings are well lit and do not interfere with each other.

Two-line scheme for planting cucumbers

The planting density of plants directly depends on the size of the greenhouse. The larger the greenhouse, the greater the distance you can leave between the bushes and the more comfortable the cucumbers will feel. The diagram below shows the optimal placement of cucumbers, with maximum use of the usable area of ​​the greenhouse.

Schemes for planting cucumbers in greenhouses 2-3 m wide

Chess

When planting cucumber seedlings in two rows in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between the bushes is 0.35 m. Since the plants are planted staggered in the rows when planting, this eliminates the interweaving of the growing vines and therefore there is no thickening of the plantings.

Planting cucumbers in a checkerboard pattern

One-liner

A one-line scheme for greenhouse planting of cucumbers provides for placement in a row at a distance of 0.2-0.4 m, and the distance between rows is at least 0.7 m.

Single-row cucumber planting scheme

Each planting method has its own advantages:

• with a two-row planting, a larger number of seedlings are planted, therefore we will get a larger harvest;
• with the chessboard method, cucumber bushes receive maximum illumination, grow well - the result is increased productivity;
• When growing cucumbers in a single row, it is convenient to care for the plants, since there is free access to each plant.

Cucumbers can be grown in a rather original way in the form of a Christmas tree. This is a very convenient method of forming cucumber beds in the open ground, which can decorate any garden plot. How to plant cucumbers in a Christmas tree? The essence of the method is that cucumbers (seeds or seedlings) are not planted in straight beds, but the seeds are sown in a circle.

Planting cucumbers in warm beds in a circle

Along the edge of the circle, with a diameter of 1.5 -2 m, a groove is dug, at the bottom of which you can place cut grass, humus, and compost. A layer of soil is poured on top, and seeds are sown or seedlings are planted at a distance of 40 cm between plants.

Schemes for joint planting of vegetables with cucumbers

If several vegetables are planted in one greenhouse at once, then tall cucumbers with a large green mass are planted in the northern beds so that they do not shade the rest of the vegetables. For example, in a scheme for planting cucumbers and peppers in a greenhouse, you can create a wide two-row bed of cucumbers along the northern wall, and plant peppers to the south in single-row or double-row beds.

In greenhouses where cucumbers and tomatoes are planted at the same time, the optimal planting scheme will look like this:

• cucumbers in a two-row bed on the north side;
• tomatoes in a two-row bed on the south side;
• in greenhouses 3-4 m wide, you can set up a two-row bed with peppers and eggplants in the center.

Use the correct arrangement of bushes in the greenhouse, and cucumbers will delight you with an excellent harvest and a lesser tendency to diseases associated with lack of ventilation, nutrition or moisture, which are observed in overly dense plantings.

The dangers of illiterate planting placement

When planting cucumbers, you need to pay special attention to observing the plant arrangement. If the distance between cucumber seedlings is less than necessary, then the plants will be forced to compete with each other for food and lighting, which will certainly affect their development, and subsequently fruiting. Planting density can also lead to:

• outbreaks of fungal infections;
• reducing plant resistance to insect pests;
• the appearance of barren flowers instead of female flowers.

And, conversely, plants planted too far from each other will waste space, so planting them at a distance that would exceed the recommended distance is simply unprofitable.

Therefore, the distance between cucumber bushes must be maintained as necessary for the normal development of plants of the selected variety and hybrid. It is calculated based on the area required for adult bushes of this variety, the degree of their climbing, the duration of the growing season, etc. Usually, seed manufacturers place information about the recommended distance on the packaging, but in any case, you cannot plant more than 3-4 roots per 1 m2 of bed area.

Mistakes made during landing

Mistakes when placing cucumber plants in beds can be as follows:

1. If you plant seeds for seedlings in a greenhouse too early, at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring, when it is still cold, the cucumbers may overgrow, their stems will quickly stretch out from the lack of heat and light and become thin. When transplanted, they will hurt for a long time. Therefore, the best time to place cucumber seeds in a greenhouse to obtain seedlings is the second half of April - early May, depending on the growing region.
2. If you plant plants too close to the walls of the greenhouse, the cucumbers will suffer from a lack of heat when it gets cold. Therefore, it is not recommended to place them closer than 25 cm from the walls.
3. A combination of cucumbers with other vegetables without taking into account their characteristics. For example, you cannot combine them with tomatoes, since these crops require different conditions for normal development: cucumbers love humidity and frequent irrigation and do not like drafts, tomatoes, on the contrary, prefer dry air, abundant infrequent watering, and frequent ventilation. It is also not recommended to place potatoes next to cucumbers, as this leads to a decrease in the yield of greens.

To get an excellent harvest of cucumbers, you must try to avoid such mistakes.

Preparing soil in a greenhouse

Cucumbers love loose and fertile soil. This is what fertile loams are. Clay is too heavy for them and lacks breathability. The sand is loose, but it does not hold water, and without it, cucumbers will not grow. As a last resort, sandy loam is suitable, to which you can add a little heavy clay soil to balance the composition.

In a greenhouse, you need to prepare the soil in advance. You can plant green manure immediately after harvesting vegetables, and dig up with them before frost. The best option would be mustard greens. It will disinfect the soil and enrich it with valuable microelements.

With the onset of winter, you need to throw snow into the greenhouse so that in the spring moisture saturates the soil. After all the snow has melted, the soil in the greenhouse is dug up. The holes must be prepared in advance before planting seedlings. The ideal option is warm ridges, because cucumber is a very heat-loving crop.

They can be made both in autumn and spring. If this is not possible, then humus or compost mixed with ash and double superphosphate is placed in the prepared furrows or holes: half a glass of superphosphate and a liter of ash per bucket. Then sprinkle with 10-20 cm of loose soil.

If you change the soil in the greenhouse in the fall or spring, then you should take into account that you need to take the soil from those areas where the day before you grew vegetables that do not have common diseases with cucumbers: cabbage, onions, carrots, peppers or potatoes.

Optimal planting schemes for cucumbers

Some gardeners, due to the small area of ​​their greenhouses, try to plant cucumbers close enough to each other to get as much harvest as possible. But such a decision does not always pay off, because with proper care, even from a small number of cucumbers you can harvest a good harvest of greens.

In general, the choice of planting scheme for cucumbers in a greenhouse and open ground depends on how they will be grown - vertical or horizontal.

When grown horizontally

When plants are placed horizontally (they will spread along the ground without the use of various types of supports), they do not need to be planted too often. With this planting method, one- or two-line sowing can be used.

1. In the first case, the distance between the cucumbers in the row should be approximately 0.6-1 m, and the row spacing should be about 0.8-1 m wide. For parthenocarpic hybrids, you can leave the width between rows at 0.7 m.
2. With a two-line planting, 2 rows are placed side by side, the distance between which is 60 cm. The row spacing with this method of sowing should be spacious - at least 0.6-1 m. In this case, the plants are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. It is advisable to arrange the rows in the direction from west to east: this way the cucumber plants will receive the best light throughout the day.

Another option for sowing cucumbers with seeds: they are sown in furrows 5-7 cm apart from each other with a row spacing of 30-50 cm. When the seeds germinate and sprout, the plants are thinned out, leaving gaps between them recommended by seed producers.

With such planting, it is not very convenient to care for the plants: water them, feed them, loosen the soil, collect greens; they are susceptible to various kinds of diseases, but the cucumbers themselves feel most comfortable, develop better, and bear fruit longer.

With a vertical growing method

Some vegetable growers cultivate cucumbers in open beds without tying them up, but many use the vertical method, when plant vines are placed on a trellis. This not only makes it possible to make the most efficient use of the area allocated for cucumbers, but also provides them with the most comfortable conditions for good development, and also makes it as easy as possible to care for these plants and collect greens from them.

In open ground beds, cucumber plants can also be placed in a 1- or 2-line manner. In this case, the distance should be the same as that recommended for the given variety or hybrid on the seed package. It can be something like this: in rows - from 30 to 60 cm; between them – from 40 to 120 cm.

Trellis are installed on the beds even before cucumber seedlings are placed on them. Strong supports are installed, and a thick wire is stretched between them along the top. The plants themselves are tied with twines made of natural or synthetic fibers, which are attached to the wire, and then the cucumber lashes are tied with them.

Using the two-line method, it is recommended to sow cucumbers in a greenhouse and a greenhouse, and the distance between them should be as follows (in cm):

• in the greenhouse – 35-40 (in rows), 45-60 (row spacing), from 80 (between ribbons);
• in a greenhouse – 25 (in rows), 25-35 (between rows), up to 80 (between ribbons).

You can also place cucumber seedlings not in a two-line, but in a single-line manner. In this case, the distance between the holes is left 30-40 cm, the row spacing is made wide - 0.8-1 m. This distance between the rows fully ensures excellent ventilation of the plants, illumination and heat supply to them, and also makes it easier to approach the beds and care for them. plants and, of course, harvesting.

When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, the first row from the walls must be placed at a distance of at least 25 cm, otherwise the plants will not be able to receive normal sunlight or will suffer during cold spells. This will immediately affect their growth and development processes.

When the planted plants are completely rooted, which will happen approximately 1-1.5 weeks after the day of planting, they begin to tie them to the installed trellis, and then, as they grow, they wrap the rising vines with twine.

In addition to trellises, for cucumbers in open-type beds, you can arrange another supporting structure - a net along which the plants will weave. In this case, they use a single-row planting method with a distance between cucumbers in rows of 25-40 cm. Growing bushes on a grid is convenient because their vines are evenly distributed on the support, which is comfortable for the plants themselves, and also facilitates all the actions of the vegetable grower in caring for them. It is convenient to install: it is not necessary to look for special supports; you can use any surface in a vertical direction, for example, fences, walls of buildings. You can even use one more option: install supports of the same height along the edges of the cucumber bed, put a strong crossbar on top of them, and throw a net over it, lowering it from both sides to the ground and securing it.

Optimal conditions for the growth of cucumbers

There is a reason why cucumbers and tomatoes are planted separately. Although some manage to get good results by growing them together. Cucumbers need special conditions to grow and have a good harvest: light, heat, humidity, watering and others. The growing conditions for cucumbers are almost the same as for all pumpkins.

Watering

Cucumber is a very responsive crop to watering. It must be regular, without this the harvest will not be good. In dry years, it may not exist at all, since the water is instantly absorbed by the soil. Watering in a greenhouse or hotbed should be done frequently; the leaves should not be allowed to wilt.

This feature is associated with the structure of the cucumber root system. It is located close to the soil surface, so the plant does not have the opportunity to take water from the depths, as, for example, tomatoes do. The health of the plant depends on how often you water it. In hot weather, when fruits are forming, this should be done every day.

Cucumbers are recommended to be irrigated using the sprinkling method. With this method, water is poured out in small drops, partially evaporating. This increases the air humidity in the greenhouse, which is very important for cucumbers. The soil is gradually saturated with water, which allows the roots to better absorb moisture.

Water consumption per 1 m2 is approximately 15-25 liters per day or every other day, depending on the weather. When fruits form, water consumption increases and amounts to 20-30 liters.

Do not water cucumbers with cold water. They used to say that this makes the fruits bitter. Now the fruits are genetically sweet, but cold water is not advisable for watering because it increases the likelihood of plant disease.

Feeding

We must not forget about fertilizing. Cucumbers grow rapidly, and modern hybrids produce very high yields. In order for the plant to be able to “feed” them, it is necessary to apply fertilizer 1-2 times a month, literally from the first days.

Fertilizers are organic and mineral. Organic are natural fertilizers. These include manure, green fertilizer from grass, ash, and chicken droppings. When growing seedlings, only ash is used from the listed fertilizers when preparing the substrate for sowing seeds.

Before planting in the ground, seedlings are fed 1-2 times with mineral fertilizers. Preference is given to nitrogen or complex ones with a predominance of nitrogen, because first the plant must increase its green mass and become stronger.

After planting in the ground, cucumbers are not fed for 2 weeks until the plant has completely taken root. In addition, there is usually enough nutrition in the holes. After this, you need to start “feeding” green fertilizer, a solution of mullein, chicken droppings and ash. From the beginning of flowering, potassium fertilizers are added.

Light mode

The time of fruiting, as well as the yield of cucumbers, depends on the intensity of light and the length of daylight hours. The second has a greater effect on plant growth. Cucumbers are short-day plants, so they need a 10-12 hour day to fully develop. During the period of growing seedlings, this is no less important. If there is not enough light, then conditions of 10-hour daylight hours are created using artificial lighting.

Temperature

Cucumber is a very heat-loving crop. If it's cold outside, you can't expect good harvests. In addition, the plants will be weakened, which will affect the increase in morbidity. The average temperature in the greenhouse should be maintained at 17°C. But for the first time after sowing, the temperature should be 25-28 degrees.

That's why it's better to grow cucumbers at home first. Severe cold spells have a negative impact on growth. But too high temperatures are also harmful to cucumbers.

If on hot days the temperature in the greenhouse is above 30C, then you need to ventilate and spray the plant to reduce the temperature.

Humidity

Cucumber has an increased need for air humidity. For cucumbers, this norm is 85-95%. If you compare it with peppers, the difference is very big. Peppers need a moisture content of 60-65%. At low humidity, the process of pollination and fruit set is significantly reduced.

Of the greenhouse crops, cucumber is perhaps the most moisture-demanding crop.

Ventilation

At first, when the cucumber seedlings are still small, you need to ventilate the rooms where they grow very carefully. Cucumbers do not tolerate drafts at all. And in the greenhouse it is necessary to ventilate, especially when the thermometer rises above 30C.

The windows are opened only on one side to avoid drafts.

Bush formation

In order for cucumbers to produce a bountiful harvest and bear fruit for a long time, the plant must be shaped correctly. There are a lot of opinions on this matter, but the overwhelming majority believes that formation is necessary.

Topping

Pinch the cucumber vines as follows:

• the first 40-50 cm - the shoots “blind” completely;
• pinch the next 40-50 cm above the first leaf;
• the next 40-50 cm above the second;
• then 40-50 cm above the third;
• and so on.

Some gardeners cut off the plants' tendrils to save energy. For the same purpose, not all ovaries are left; some are removed. If it is noticed that when fruits are formed in bunches, some do not have enough nutrition and they begin to dry out, then one fruit at a time is left in the axils. In this case, watering and fertilizing are increased.

It turns out like a “herringbone” in reverse. At the end of growth, under the roof, the plants set fruits freely. Some people pinch the whip under the roof so that it does not waste energy on growth. All potential is spent on the formation of fruits.

It has been noticed that without pinching, the yield is significantly reduced.

Stepsoning

Stepsons on cucumbers are only appropriate when the stepsons are removed at the beginning of growth, half a meter above the soil surface. There is no need to do this higher, since many large ovaries are located on the side shoots. The meaning of pinching is that the plant’s forces are released for further growth and development.

For this procedure, carefully bend the leaf and remove the shoot with a cloth or knives. Subsequently, the leaves at the bottom of the vine dry out and the main stem becomes bare. There are many root primordia on it. If you lay the stem in a ring, roots will begin to grow very quickly in this place and the cucumber will have additional nutrition.

Tying up

Cucumbers are tied up in a greenhouse for the following reasons:

• plants in this position are better illuminated by the sun;
• the lashes are ventilated and the cucumbers get sick less;
• they are easier to care for;
• plants do not intertwine with each other;
• Almost 100% of flowers and ovaries are preserved;
• watering and loosening are simplified;
• good visibility when picking fruit.

You need to start tying up the plant at one month of age, when its height reaches 30-40 cm. There are several types of materials from which ropes for cucumbers are made. Everyone chooses the best option for themselves. For some it is rags, for others it is nylon. Some people opt for synthetic twines, which are sold in hardware stores.

The length of one twine is 2-2.5 meters. One end is attached to the ceiling, and the other should freely go down. The lower end is carefully attached between the lower leaves. As the lash grows, it wraps clockwise around the twine.

Distance between plants when grown in barrels

If the method of growing these plants in barrels is chosen, then the distance between cucumber seeds when planting should be maintained at least 15 cm. At least 8 or 10 pieces are sown simultaneously in one container (standard 200 liter barrel). seeds This amount is quite enough for all the cucumber plants to be provided with all the necessary nutrition, without interfering with each other at all, and to be able to easily increase a decent harvest of greens.

Distance between plants when growing on a balcony

For those who live in apartments, you can grow cucumbers on the balcony. To do this, it is best to purchase special containers that are deep and wide enough, with holes for water drainage. The volume of soil that should be in this case per 1 cucumber plant should not be less than 5 liters. This is what you should proceed from when calculating the distance needed when planting cucumbers. The approximate sowing pattern is 30 cm apart for a container about 80 cm long and 40 cm high. You can place 2 pieces in each hole made. seeds, deepening them by 1-2 cm, no more. In the future, one plant will need to be removed. With this method of placement, cucumbers will feel quite comfortable on the balcony.

Maintaining density: what is the difference between the scheme of planting cucumbers in a greenhouse and in open ground

To obtain a good harvest of cucumbers, not only the timing of planting seeds or seedlings should be observed. In pursuit of the number of cucumbers collected, it is necessary to remember the needs of the plant itself and maintain the optimal distance between the bushes for the variety.

The principle of “too close, but not to be offended” is categorically not acceptable for cucumber beds. Their general condition, and therefore the harvest, depends on the scheme of planting bushes.

Rules for caring for cucumbers in polycarbonate greenhouses

Growing cucumbers in greenhouse conditions requires special care for the plants. During the period of budding and fruiting, greenhouse cucumbers require special organization of watering and feeding.

Watering

Cucumbers are considered moisture-loving plants. Despite this, watering must be organized, because excessive moisture promotes the development of rot.

When organizing watering, the following points should be taken into account:

1. The soil under the plant should always be moist, however, water should not stagnate.
2. Wilting of leaves is unacceptable. At the first signs, the plant must be moistened.
3. To speed up the process of ovary formation, water the cucumbers a little less during this period.
4. The water temperature for irrigation should not be lower than +18℃. But there is no need to use too hot water.
5. After the watering procedure, the soil must be fluffed up.

Advice!

It is advisable to water the plants in the evening. The absence of sun allows moisture to remain in the soil for some time.

The frequency of watering depends on the temperature in the greenhouse. At moderate temperatures, water the cucumbers 2-3 times a week. If the greenhouse is hot, watering should be more frequent, carrying out the procedure every 2 days.

Top dressing

No matter how fertile the soil is, plants need to be fertilized to get a good harvest. At different periods of the life cycle, cucumbers require certain feeding.

It is important to strictly follow the dosage specified in the instructions for the fertilizer. The root system of the plant may suffer from oversaturation with fertilizer.

In addition to fertilizers, cucumbers should be fed with wood ash every 10 days. This fertilizer is indispensable for this crop. Ash is diluted at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of water.

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What results from non-compliance with the planting scheme?

With the best of intentions, inexperienced gardeners place cucumbers too compactly. As a result, plants spend energy not on producing fruits, but on competing with neighbors in the garden, fighting for living space. Planting density causes many problems.

1. A favorable atmosphere is created for the development of putrefactive processes and fungal diseases.
2. Insect pests feel at ease in dense thickets.
3. On the crop, flowers are formed predominantly of the male type - “barren flowers”.
4. The bush simply lacks all vital resources - water, light and nutrition.

The other extreme is not much better - planting seedlings at too great a distance. On the one hand, there is simply an irrational use of the garden space, which significantly reduces the chances of a good harvest. Secondly, with this approach, a native of humid subtropics, a cucumber bush, accustomed to scattered moving partial shade, finds itself in the sun.

Depending on the variety, cucumber bushes have different growth rates, climbing patterns, and growing season duration, which affects the size of the plant and requirements for free space.

Typically, seed manufacturers indicate on the packaging the optimal planting density of plants of a particular variety; for cucumbers this is no more than 3-4 roots per 1 m².

What determines the distance between rows and plants?

Experienced gardeners know that the density of plants in a garden bed depends on the method of cultivation: the distance between cucumber bushes in a garden bed is from 30 to 60 cm.

Growing cucumbers vertically on supports is more economically profitable, since without compromising quality, the yield per unit area increases almost 2 times.

In well-filled beds with organic matter, it is possible to grow cucumbers with a minimum interval of 30 cm. On poor soils, bushes are placed more freely - the plants make up for the lack of root nutrition through photosynthesis.

Planting density depends on the size of the bush, the individual characteristics of the variety or hybrid:

• strength of growth;
• tendency to branch;
• duration of the growing season.

The vertical method of cultivation makes it possible to level out the inherent characteristics of varieties by regularly forming a bush; with a sufficient amount of nutrients, it is possible to “thicken” the plantings. When growing horizontally “in a spread”, the formation of cucumber vines is virtually impossible - the practice is to plant bushes at a distance of at least 50 cm, regardless of the variety and quality of the soil.

From the video you can learn one of the schemes for planting cucumbers in open ground and learn recommendations about technology.

Technology for growing cucumbers in winter greenhouses

It's nice to please yourself in winter with fresh cucumbers grown by yourself. But growing cucumbers in winter is a troublesome task, requiring additional financial costs for the functioning of plant life support systems.

1. Heating. To maintain an optimal environment, the greenhouse is equipped with a heating system. Sudden changes in temperature during the day should not be allowed. It is unacceptable to cool the greenhouse below +15 C° during the day and +12 C° at night. This threatens the death of plants. It is necessary to maintain a constant temperature of 22–25 C°.
2. Hydration. Constant heating, especially electric heating, dries out the air inside the greenhouse. To restore optimal humidity, plants are regularly irrigated, floors and walls are sprayed, and open containers of water are placed.
3. Lighting. In winter, the lack of sunlight is compensated with artificial light. Without electric lighting, growing cucumbers in winter is impossible. At the beginning of the growing season, the lamps are placed as close to the soil surface as possible, and as the seedlings grow, they are raised upward.
4. Arrangement of a special ventilation system.

Cucumbers are sown in a winter greenhouse either through seedlings or directly with seeds into the ground. In both cases this is done in January. The sowing density of branching varieties should not exceed 3 seedlings per 1 m². Plants with moderate formation of side shoots are placed a little denser - up to 4 plants in the same area. The planting scheme used is the same as in a conventional greenhouse.

Planting cucumbers according to the classic scheme

All advice from agronomists boils down to the general opinion: per 1 m² of bed there should be from 2 to 4 bushes (depending on the variety and method of plant formation).

There are various techniques for arranging cucumber beds. The starting point is the classic planting in a row with the vine placed on a support:

• planting depth - 4-5 cm;
• the distance between plants in a row is 40-50 cm;
• the distance between rows is 80-100 cm.

The approach to planting density is somewhat different in the case of direct sowing in the ground. The general recommendations of experienced summer residents boil down to one thing: ungerminated seeds must be planted with a reserve for poor germination and other unforeseen circumstances.

After the appearance of the first true leaf, weak plants are removed.

Seed method of growing cucumbers

Planting cucumbers with seeds is considered an easier way to grow a crop compared to the seedling method. The only difference is that the seeds are planted directly into the soil. The disadvantage of this method is poor germination. Before planting, the seeds are calcined and treated with nutrient mixtures.

Sowing order:

1. Determine the landing method - vertical or horizontal.
2. Prepare the wells.
3. A few seeds are poured into each.
4. Make a hole for the seeds - about 5 cm. The size of one hole should be such that each seed is 4-5 cm apart from each other.
5. Sprinkle with a layer of earth.

Repeated watering is not required. The soil remains loosened, the seeds receive the same amount of moisture and air.

For horizontal cultivation, sprouted cucumbers do not need to be tied up; they will grow on the ground. However, rope fencing is used to separate beds with cucumbers from other crops. The planting pattern for this type of cultivation is a checkerboard pattern.

As for the vertical method, the seeds are deepened by 5-7 cm. After germination, the bushes are thinned out so that a distance of 35 cm is maintained between them. Next, a trellis is installed along which the cucumbers will grow. When installing the frame, organic materials are used: wood and ropes. Iron nets can injure bushes.

Features of planting cucumbers in a greenhouse

Greenhouse cultivation of cucumbers begins with planting seedlings. The seedling method brings the beginning of fruiting closer - even without artificial heating of the greenhouse, the first cucumbers in the Central region are harvested already in May.

For indoor soil, agronomists recommend using a 2-line scheme for growing cucumbers. There are slight differences in the planting density of plants in a greenhouse and a greenhouse, due to the high nutritional properties of the soil in a greenhouse filled with organic matter.

The table shows the interval values ​​for such a popular method of growing with 2-line tape.

Practice has shown that the best yield is demonstrated by plantings done in a checkerboard pattern, subject to the specified intervals between plants.

For small greenhouses, in order to save space, instead of a 2-row tape, it is permissible to grow cucumbers in 1 row, but reduce the interval between bushes to 20-25 cm.

Polycarbonate greenhouse 3×6: placement option

The standard sizes of polycarbonate greenhouses are loved by summer residents: even without additional heating, heat-loving vegetable crops in the Central region can be grown from April to October.

To grow cucumbers vertically, a wire is stretched under the ceiling of the greenhouse, then a plastic mesh is attached to it or lashes are tied with ordinary twine.

The greenhouse area of ​​3x6 m is divided into beds, taking into account the paths:

• on the outermost beds (towards the outer walls) 1 row of cucumbers is planted with an interval of 35-40 cm in the row;
• 2-3 rows of cucumbers are planted in the central bed with the same distance in the row - up to 40 cm.

There is no point in thickening the plantings - the plants will receive less light and the risk of fungal diseases will be higher.

Schemes for planting greenhouse cucumbers in narrow beds

In Russia and the CIS countries, greenhouse cultivation of cucumbers makes it possible to guarantee a harvest of these vegetables. Weather conditions in the middle zone, especially in spring, greatly affect the yield of vegetables in open ground, and a greenhouse covered with glass, transparent cellular polycarbonate or film protects the plantings. In the greenhouse, these vegetables are planted in wide rectangular and long narrow beds.

Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse with your own hands

It is easy to treat such beds with pesticides and acaricides if pests have settled on them. On narrow ridges it is not difficult to fertilize the soil.

There are three schemes for planting greenhouse cucumbers:

• two-line diagram;
• chess pattern;
• one-line planting diagram.

Two-line diagram

With this planting scheme, the sprouts are planted in two rows so that they are opposite each other. The scheme is suitable for varieties with not too large leaves and fruits. Excess leaves, tendrils and lashes, as well as barren flowers, must be constantly removed so that the sun penetrates the cucumber bushes and air circulates freely through them.

Two-line diagram

When creating beds, you need to maintain the following parameters:

• the height of the soil layer in the beds is at least 20 cm;
• bed width - 80-85 cm;
• the length of the ridges is the length or width of the greenhouse, it can be any;
• the distance between plants in rows is 40-45 cm;
• distance between rows - 50 cm;
• The width of the paths between the beds is from 40 cm.

Cucumbers in a greenhouse

The checkerboard pattern allows the plants not to block each other from the sun. The holes are made so that they do not stand opposite each other, but are arranged in a checkerboard pattern (plants in one row seem to be “ahead” of plants in the other by half a step between them). The checkerboard planting pattern is well suited for self-pollinating hybrid varieties with large leaves and large fruits. Thus, it is recommended to plant cucumbers with long greens.

The parameters of beds for planting plants in a checkerboard pattern differ little from beds planted according to a “two-line” pattern:

• width of the beds - 80-85 cm;
• the height of the soil layer in the beds is at least 20 cm;
• the distance between seedlings in a row is 35-40 cm;
• the distance between the first and second rows of seedlings is 35-40 cm, the width between the beds is from 40 cm.

Example of chess planting (holes for cucumber seedlings are ready)

Some hybrid varieties of cucumbers that produce a friendly and abundant harvest are best planted in one row. Single-row ridges are made narrow and long. The distance between seedlings can be reduced, since sunlight will freely reach each cucumber bush. The sowing area is not saved, since wide passages have to be left between the beds, giving access to the plants that need to be shaped, removed from the mustache and lashes, tied to poles or ropes tied to the top lattice. For productive hybrids that ripen very quickly, single-row planting is optimal.

Single-row planting pattern

The bed parameters for a single-row scheme will be as follows:

• the height of the ridges is at least 20 cm;
• bed width - 40-45 cm;
• the length of the ridges is in accordance with the design and layout of the greenhouse;
• the distance between seedling bushes is 25-27 cm;
• the distance between adjacent beds is from 40 cm.

Table. Popular varieties of cucumbers for greenhouses.

In the southern regions of Russia and the CIS countries, many greenhouse varieties of cucumbers can be grown in open ground. In mid-latitudes, the varieties described in the table are planted in greenhouses.

Greenhouse varieties of cucumbers

The stems and vines of cucumbers reach a length of 2 meters or more. In order for them to grow in height, long strong poles are installed in the greenhouse or ropes are tied to a special sheathing under the roof of the greenhouse. The poles must be fixed in the soil at a distance of at least 10 cm from the plant. This will protect the root system of cucumbers from damage.

How to tie cucumbers in a greenhouse

If in the garden the distance between the seedlings is 45-50 cm, then on the ropes, under the ceiling, it should be at least 1.1-1.2 m. That is, the ropes are not tied strictly vertically, but obliquely. If poles are used, they are placed vertically, and the distance between the stem near the ground and the top of the cucumber bush will be the same.

Caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse

Ropes can be synthetic or cotton. The thickness of the ropes must be at least 4 mm. The distance from the cucumber foliage to the greenhouse wall should be at least 30 cm.

Open ground cucumbers: planting scheme

If greenhouses are used primarily for obtaining super-early and early harvests of cucumbers, then cucumbers are usually grown in the open air by direct sowing into the ground.

Even in the Central region, weather conditions comfortable for cucumbers are established no earlier than the beginning of June.

Cucumber seeds are sown at the end of May. At this time, nighttime drops in temperatures, even frosts, are still possible. Before germination, cold is not dangerous for cucumbers.

Cucumber seeds are planted in moist soil to a depth of 3-4 cm. There are several generally accepted methods for placing cucumber bushes.

It would not be amiss to remind you that all melons (including cucumbers) react very painfully to the movement of the vines, they can even “throw off” the ovaries. When caring for a cucumber bed (especially for the “spread out” method of growing), you cannot shift the vines, much less turn them over.

Cucumbers on trellises - diagram for open ground beds

Practice shows that growing cucumbers on supports in the garden is more convenient in all respects. Varieties and hybrids differ in growth vigor and tendency to branch; the recommended intervals between plants for planting seeds are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Growing cucumbers on supports makes it much easier to care for the garden bed and increases productivity. Clear advantages of vertical cucumber cultivation:

• rational use of garden space;
• ease of maintenance of the bed;
• optimal lighting regime for plants;
• reducing the risk of outbreaks of fungal diseases and pests due to good ventilation of plantings;
• extension of the fruiting period (by 1 month or more) as a result of favorable growing conditions.

For open ground cucumbers, it is not at all necessary to install permanent structures made of metal corners and other durable materials. It is quite enough to stretch a cord or wire over the rows at a height of 1.7-2 m, from which to lower pieces of string to each cucumber bush.

Growing seedlings

The earliest harvest of cucumbers can be obtained through seedlings, so many gardeners resort to this method. Self-grown seedlings are much cheaper than purchased ones, especially if you plan to plant them in a large greenhouse space. In addition, the gardener can be sure that the variety is consistent, while at markets and exhibitions they often slip in fakes that do not correspond to the declared variety.

The technology for obtaining cucumber seedlings is very simple and will not cause difficulties even for beginners in this matter.

Preparing soil and containers

Since the sprouts of the crop do not like transplantation and do not tolerate it well, it is better to plant the seeds immediately in separate containers. The best option is considered to be peat pots, which are buried in the ground along with the seedlings when planted in a permanent place. They are filled with light nutritious soil, which you can buy in a store or prepare yourself.

For example, mix peat, humus, and rotted sawdust with turf soil in equal proportions. There is no need to fill the pots to the very top - when watering, the water will flow out around the edges.

Preparation of planting material

Store-bought cucumber seeds are usually already disinfected and prepared, so they are sown dry. Planting material collected from your own cucumbers must undergo high-quality pre-sowing treatment, which consists of:

• calibration, the purpose of which is to separate empty seeds. To do this, pour seeds into a 3% saline solution, wait 5...10 minutes, and throw away those that float to the surface. The rest are dried and used for sowing;
• pickling (disinfection), which is carried out in any convenient way - soaking in a solution of potassium permanganate (20...30 minutes) or a special preparation (1...2 hours) or heating at a temperature of +400C (3 days) or +800C (1 day);
• hardening, since cold treatment significantly increases the cold resistance and productivity of future seedlings. The seeds are placed in wet gauze and put in the refrigerator for 2 days.

Sprouting seeds is a great way to save space and get early sprouts. The seeds are placed in damp toilet paper (gauze and cotton wool are not used for this purpose, since the tenacious roots break when the sprouts are removed from the material). At a temperature of ±25...±280C, sprouts will appear in 1...2 days.

Sowing

The soil in the planting containers is pre-moistened and sowing begins. They are placed flat at a depth of 1.5...2 cm, sprinkled with soil on top. If planting is done in separate cups, place no more than 2 pieces in each of them. If in a common container, then the distance between the planting lines is 2 cm, and between the seeds in a row - 1 cm.

The top layer of the substrate is slightly moistened, the container is covered with plastic wrap and put away in a dark, warm place. It is necessary to regularly check for seedlings. As soon as the first shoots appear, the containers are placed on a well-lit windowsill.

Care

Caring for seedlings before planting consists of watering, fertilizing, and, if necessary, organizing additional lighting.

It is because of the lack of light that the seedlings stretch out, become frail and weak. Phytolamps are used for illumination.

You can start feeding seedlings 2 weeks after the sprouts appear. Here they use water-soluble complex fertilizers, which are diluted according to the instructions on the back of the package.

Approximately 3 weeks after the sprouts appear, the seedlings are ready to be transplanted into the greenhouse. By this time, each of them should be about 30 cm high and have 3...4 true leaves.

Planting scheme for a warm bed

For a warm bed, a planting pattern is chosen based on the geometry of the structure. Traditionally, warm beds are built in trenches or raised, in boxes. The soil of a warm bed, well filled with organic matter, allows for some thickening of planting: instead of 1 row, a strip of 2 rows is planted, the distance in the row is 25-30 cm, between the rows - 50-60 cm.

Due to the decomposition of organic matter, the soil of a warm bed warms up faster: a bed equipped with a light shelter on arcs can produce a cucumber harvest 2-3 weeks earlier.