Pear does not bloom or bear fruit: causes and treatment methods

Gardening » Pear

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Kira Stoletova

The pear bears fruit in about the third year, so you won’t be able to enjoy it immediately after planting. Much depends on the variety: there are varieties of fruit trees in which fruit appears only 8-10 years after planting.

Pear fruiting dates

What year after planting should we expect a harvest?

The pear will delight you with its first flowering the very next year after planting, but this time is not enough for the fruit to appear. When exactly the tree begins to bear fruit depends on the plant variety. This is the main factor by which the exact timing of fruit formation can be determined. Some varieties of trees can be harvested 3-4 years after planting.
This group includes the following varieties:

• "Chizhevskaya";
• "lada";
• “memory of Yakovlev”;
• "Siberian";
• "honey";
• "Rogneda".

Other pears bear fruit later: you will have to wait at least 6-8 years. These are the following varieties:

• "treasure";
• "bergamot";
• "duchess";
• "forest beauty";
• "favorite".

Trees belonging to the Far Eastern varieties do not bear fruit for decades. If you planted a pear of the Ussuri variety, do not expect a harvest earlier than in 15-20 years.

There is a truly unique variety called “Annushka”. You can harvest fruits from it next year after planting. If a year after planting the fruits have not appeared, do not be upset. You will have to wait a little longer: 2 years after planting, “Annushka” will certainly bear fruit.

The quality of tree care is also a very important factor. If the pear is planted in good soil, pruned and fed, it will develop faster. This means that the fruits on the tree will appear faster: 1-2 years earlier than they should.

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If fruits do not form on a pear for many years, it is necessary to check whether the tree has been chosen by pests, whether it is sick, and whether it is growing in conditions appropriate to the variety.

3 Incorrect landing

If the pear tree is already mature, but does not bloom, the problem may lie in the wrong planting location. So, if the plant lacks sunlight, it simply will not have enough energy to bloom.

High acidity of the soil has a negative impact on the well-being of the seedling and the appearance of fruits.

Excess soil moisture may also be the cause. So, if the groundwater at the planting site is located too close to the surface of the earth, there is a high probability that the roots of the pear will simply begin to rot.

Another reason is non-compliance with landing rules. If a young tree looks healthy but does not bloom, you should make sure that when planting the seedling was not excessively buried in the planting hole. In this case, there is inhibition in the development of the tree: it begins to bear fruit 5–6 years later. Such a tree will have low frost resistance.

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Reasons for the lack of flowering and fruiting in pears

The problem of lack of flowering can be corrected if you find out the reason. The pear does not bloom or bear fruit because:

• landing rules were violated;
• problems arose due to fertilizing (the tree was not fertilized at all or, on the contrary, it was done too often);
• the branches were pruned incorrectly;
• there are no pollinating pears on the site;
• negative weather factors were observed during flowering;
• the pear is affected by parasites or diseases.

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We will dwell on each reason in more detail.

Failure to comply with landing rules

If the pear is mature, but there is still no flowering, the reason may be that it is not planted in the right place. If the area is not properly lit, the tree will not receive the required amount of sunlight and will not have the strength and energy to produce flowers.

In soil with a high level of acidity, seedlings feel uncomfortable, so fruits do not appear. Excessive soil moisture also negatively affects the roots of the plant. If groundwater runs very close to the soil surface, the pear will suffer due to an excess of water. As a result, the root system of the tree rots.

The reason for the lack of flowering may also lie in the fact that the gardener did not adhere to the planting rules. If the tree has a healthy appearance, but does not begin to bloom, the seedling may have been too deep into the planting hole. Because of this, the tree develops more slowly than usual, and the fruits will begin to appear 5-6 years later than they should. If the plant is deeply planted, its resistance to cold weather is significantly weakened.

Proper planting of pears is carried out in this way:

1. Dry roots are moistened with water, and those that are too long are cut off.
2. A hole of the required depth is dug. A peg is installed, and a small mound is made from the soil in the center.
3. A seedling is placed on a mound at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the peg. The graft should be 2-3 centimeters above ground level.
4. The hole is filled in and the earth is compacted a little.
5. The soil around the plant is mulched.

Deviation on at least one point can lead to the fact that there will be no ovary.

Bad weather conditions

Often, pear trees begin to bloom in late spring, but this process can begin a little earlier. If frost hits sharply, the flowers (in their place fruits should subsequently form) will die. If it rains frequently or the pear is located in a place with draft winds, the flowers will fall off. It is impossible to control weather conditions. But it is important to choose the right place and variety of pear. This way you can minimize the risk.

Errors with fertilizing

The pear is a fruit tree, one of the few that bear fruit every year. She spends a lot of energy on fruiting, much more than some other plants spend energy on. For a tree to be strong and healthy, it needs timely feeding on a regular basis.

Do not overdo it with fertilizer application. An excessive amount of them will lead to the fact that new shoots will begin to grow quickly, but there will still be no ovary. There is no need to feed the pear before the first ovary, since the tree in the first years of its life is quite sufficient with fertilizers, which are applied during planting.

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Do not use organic fertilizers to feed pears, as the plant does not absorb them well. The best option would be mineral fertilizers.

Lack of pear pollinators

Most pear varieties are cross-pollinated. It is a mistake to plant only one fruit tree on a plot. In this case, there will be no harvest from it or there will be but a small one. The problem can be solved very simply. It is enough to plant a second one near one pear. Plants must be of different varieties. Plant trees at a distance of at least 4-5 meters. Moreover, their flowering times must coincide. You don’t have to plant a second pear, you just need to graft a cutting of a different variety onto the tree.

Incorrect pruning

Pruning pear branches is necessary twice a year: in autumn and spring. But the goals and pruning patterns for each season are different. If you prune the branches too much, the tree will spend energy on healing wounds rather than bearing fruit. If the pear tree is not pruned at all, the crown will become too thick. The fruits will not set because they will not receive enough sunlight.

In the spring they carry out:

• cleaning branches that cross;
• removing branches growing towards the trunk;
• pruning branches directed towards the ground;
• harvesting young shoots from the roots.

In the fall, do the following:

• remove branches growing too close to each other;
• cut out the top branches;
• remove young growth from the trunk;
• remove the lower branches on the forks;
• trim the top, removing the crow's feet.

Proper pruning is necessary for the tree to thrive.

Pest or disease damage

If the plant is not properly cared for, it is not surprising that it is attacked by pests and becomes sick. This problem is not difficult to solve. There are many different ways to get rid of parasites: resort to folk remedies or use chemicals, the range of which is quite large on the modern market.

As a preventative measure, the tree should be sprayed once a month with any chosen product. This should not be done during the flowering period.

If a pear bears fruit every year for many years, and then suddenly stops doing so, then the tree is already old and is unlikely to be harvested in the future.

Planting a pear tree is a simple process. Anyone can do this if they want. But just planting a tree is not enough. In order for it to please the gardener with tasty and healthy fruits, the plant must be properly cared for. Regular watering, fertilizing, timely pruning of branches, weeding the area around the tree, and pest control are mandatory measures. Give the tree as much attention as it needs. Only in this case it will bring you a lot of juicy pears.

How to ensure pollination:

Pollination of flowers mainly occurs through the transfer of pollen by flying insects. Bees play an important role in this process. Their attraction to the site will ensure good pollination and, accordingly, a high yield. But, unfortunately, not everyone can afford to put a hive on their property.

To ensure that fruit trees bear fruit in any weather, you can use the advice of experts:

Choose self-fertile varieties of fruit trees for planting. The structure of the flower in self-fertile varieties is designed so that the anther is at the same level as the stigma. Before the flower opens, it self-pollinates.

Many varieties of fruit trees are self-sterile. To pollinate them, it is necessary to plant pollinating trees nearby. Plant 2-3 different varieties of each type of garden tree. This is called cross pollination. For example, next to the Vere Klerzho pear, which is self-sterile, plant the Vere Vosk variety.

in calm weather and no wind

In calm, windless weather, you can attract insects by spraying trees with a sweet, odorous solution.

Grafting of old trees and trees that produce a small harvest. This needs to be done in the spring. Before grafting, severe pruning is done. Cuttings are prepared in advance in the fall before the onset of frost; this can be done in February-March. Store the cuttings in damp sand at a temperature of 2-3 degrees. The branches intended for grafting are shortened so that the thickness is no more than 3 cm. The cut of the branch is split into two parts, a cutting is inserted, on which two buds remain, a garden varnish is applied and tied with film.

Pear diseases

The culture is susceptible to quite a large number of diseases. Let's look at the most common ones.

Scab

Spots that are barely visible to the eye appear on the trunk, leaves, and flowers, which gradually increase to 3 cm. The yield decreases. The fruits are crushed and become hard.

The disease is infectious and common in temperate climates. Its occurrence is facilitated by high soil moisture, closely spaced plantings, and the susceptibility of the variety. They fight the disease with fungicides.

Fruit rot (Moniliosis)

A fungal disease that causes rotting of the fruit pulp. First, a small spot appears, which grows and affects him entirely. Spoiled fruit is a source of infection for neighbors. Rot affects a weakened plant or fruit with mechanical damage. Grows well in cold rainy weather.

It is impossible to stop the rotting process. You can only prevent it by taking preventive measures.

Cytosporosis

Trunk rot affects old weakened trees. The cause of development may be improper care during dry summers and sunburn.

The bark turns dark red and dries out. Trimming the affected areas and treating the cut areas with copper sulfate will help prevent the development of cytosporosis.

Black cancer (Antonov fire)

First, orange tubercles appear on the branches, the buds do not open, and then the branch dries out. A sticky substance pours out from cracks in the bark. These are signs of black cancer. It is widespread in the Urals, in the Non-Black Earth regions. Affects the bark, crown and fruits.

The disease occurs due to mechanical damage and low winter temperatures. Spores of parasitic fungi can get into damaged plant tissue, then new formations grow in the wounds and they do not heal. At the initial stages of cancer development, it is necessary to cut out and burn the affected areas, and treat the cut areas with garden varnish and fungicides.

Reasons for delayed fruiting

Delayed fruiting usually occurs due to improper cultivation of the tree. The pear begins to bear fruit when all the conditions for caring for it are met:

• The pear develops well and bears fruit if the same fruit trees are present next to it. This occurs due to open pollination. The best option is to plant several varieties of pears at a distance of about 4 m from each other. A single plant may be the reason for the lack of fruit.
• Spring pruning is carried out on time and in the correct manner.
• Regular fertilizing with potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen fertilizers can have a significant impact on the fruiting of the pear.
• Diseases and pests can seriously delay the fruiting process, so they spray and seasonally whitewash the plantings.

Diseases and pests of pear

Most often, pears are affected by diseases, among which fungal diseases occupy a leading place:

• brown spot;
• gray rot;
• scab.

As a means of preventing and combating these diseases, 1% Bordeaux mixture and the drugs “Abiga-Pik” and “HOM” are used. Regular spraying of pear trees is the most effective remedy against most diseases and parasites.

Certain types of insects can cause damage to trees and crops: weevils, aphids, and mites.

The most common are weevils, various types of bedbugs, mites and aphids. The following drugs are used to combat them:

• kemifos;
• karbofos;
• fufanon;
• inta-Vir.

Do I need to wait for fruits every year?

If the question “How many years does it take for a pear to bear fruit?” There is no clear answer, then there should be no doubt as to whether one can count on a harvest every year. Let's start with the fact that pears are long-lived, and in good conditions they delight their owners with sweet fruits for decades, without a break for rest. How many times a tree bears fruit in its life depends on its care and varietal characteristics.

If the pear is regularly fed, pruned, preventatively treated, and there are suitable pollinators near it, then the yield remains at a high level for many years. True, it is changing increasingly.

From the beginning of fruiting for 20 years, the yield increases every year, from 20 to 35–40 years it is at its maximum, and after 40 years it declines.

4 Incorrect feeding

The pear is one of the few types of fruit trees that bear fruit every year. It spends significantly more energy to maintain fruiting than other plants. To prevent the tree from weakening, it needs to be fed regularly.

When feeding pears, it is very important to know when to stop, because excessive application of fertilizers will contribute to the rapid growth of new shoots, rather than fruit set. It is not worth feeding the tree before the first ovary, since the fertilizers applied during planting are enough for the plant to survive for several years.

It is recommended to feed the pear exclusively with mineral fertilizers, as it does not cope well with the processing of organic matter.

Pear seedlings, how to choose?

First of all, I would like to note that it is best to purchase seedlings from specialized retail outlets or nurseries. Here you can get qualified advice on planting and caring for a fruit tree.

You need to remember that you need to buy only zoned seedlings that will quickly take root and will delight you with good harvests. You should not drag seedlings from vacation, especially from other climatic zones. After all, such a pear is unlikely to take root and be as sweet and juicy. While zoned varieties allow you to grow a full-fledged crop in any climate.

It is also worth paying attention to the pollination requirements, especially if no other pears grow nearby.

In the photo: Pear seedlings

Before purchasing a seedling, it must be carefully examined. If the root system is open, then the roots should not be dry, and in general the entire seedling should look healthy. It must be remembered that a high-quality seedling takes root well and quickly begins to bear fruit. After all, choosing a healthy seedling is half the success when planting a pear in your garden plot.

Seedlings are usually sold with a closed root system, in pots or special baskets. A seedling can also be sold with a clod of earth wrapped in film. And finally, with bare roots, but here you need to be especially careful.

How to make it bear fruit

To achieve regular fruiting of a pear tree, you must first begin to properly care for it: feed it 2-3 times a season, shape the crown and protect it from return frosts. In regions with harsh winters, the tree trunk area should be covered with a thick layer of organic matter (compost, humus), which, as it decomposes, will release heat and warm the roots of the tree.

If you just need to speed up fruiting (when the variety is not early-bearing), gardeners resort to grafting (budding) cuttings from an already fruit-bearing tree. And you can force the tree to resume its fruiting by tilting the branches. Gardeners have noticed that if you bend the branches so that the angle is 50–60°, fruit wood (rings, fruit twigs) begins to grow on them more intensively, which leads to an increase in yield.

USEFUL PROPERTIES OF PEAR

The pear fruit is one of the richest dietary fruits in vitamins and nutrients, which also has extraordinary healing properties.

It contains: vitamins – A, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, E, C, P, K, PP; trace elements - potassium, sodium, magnesium, calcium, iron, copper, sulfur, manganese, phosphorus, zinc, selenium, iodine, silicon, boron, molybdenum, rubidium, nickel, vanadium; useful substances - fructose, sucrose, folic acid, fiber, phytoncides, natural antibiotics, flavonoids, tannins, starch, various enzymes.

With this combination, pear fruits have a unique property: when boiled and dried, all useful substances and vitamins are preserved in it! Therefore, pear jam and compotes are as healthy as fresh fruit.

The leaves, bark and roots of trees have healing properties. Thus, tea made from pear leaves improves immunity and also serves as an excellent remedy against urolithiasis. Tincture from the roots prevents the development of cancer cells in the body. A decoction of the bark heals ulcers and even resolves scars.

Pear propagation

Pear propagates by seeds and vegetatively. During seed propagation, varietal characteristics are not preserved, so it is used only for growing rootstocks and for breeding purposes to create new varieties.

Pear propagation by seeds

Procedure for propagating pears by seed:

1. Collect fully ripe fallen pears under the trees (in September-October).
2. Remove the seeds from them, selecting the largest, undamaged, well-ripened ones (dark brown or black).
3. In the second half of October, sow the seeds in a prepared bed to a depth of 2–3 cm.
4. In spring, thin out the seedlings, leaving at least 15 cm between seedlings.
   Wild pear seeds are well suited for growing rootstocks

Pear propagation by cuttings

Lignified pear cuttings do not root at all, while green ones do so with great difficulty and only with the use of special root formation stimulants. Rooted cuttings can overwinter in open ground only in the subtropical zone; in other regions they are rooted in boxes and put away in a ventilated basement for the winter.

Propagation of pears by green cuttings

Procedure for propagating pears from green cuttings:

1. Prepare boxes 35 cm deep. Place a 20 cm layer of loose garden soil in them, then 10 cm of peat mixed with sand and 2 cm of clean river sand on top.
2. Cut off the young shoots of the current year when they begin to become slightly woody in their lower part.
   Shoots of the current year are used for cuttings.
3. Take cuttings from the lower and middle parts of these shoots.
   Green herbaceous tops do not take root. Cuttings are cut from the lower and middle parts of the shoots
4. Treat the lower sections of the cuttings with a root formation stimulator according to the instructions for the drug.
5. The lower part of the cuttings is slightly buried in the top layer of sand in the box.
   The placement pattern is 7 cm between rows, 5 cm between cuttings in a row. Pear cuttings are rooted in boxes
6. Cover the cuttings with polyethylene without touching the cuttings, place them in a bright place without direct sunlight and spray them regularly.
7. When the cuttings take root, they begin to ventilate the cuttings, and then the film is removed completely.

After rooting, the cuttings are gradually accustomed to the open air.

Pear propagation by air layering

Air layering is a method of rooting branches directly onto the tree. The main problem is overwintering: the roots formed over the summer in most cases die during winter frosts.

Procedure:

1. Lightly scratch last year's young branch selected for rooting with a knife at the site of planned rooting.
2. Tie a black plastic bag below the scratches.
3. Fill it with peat or coconut substrate, water it and tie it tightly above the scratches on the branch.
4. After a few months, when roots form, cut off the rooted branch and transplant it into a nursery for growing.
   After the roots appear, the area with them is cut from the tree

Pear grafting

The most reliable method of obtaining pear seedlings is grafting. There are two main ways to do it:

• summer budding - grafting the bud (eye) of the scion into a T-shaped cut in the bark of the rootstock;
  Budding is a grafting with an eye (bud)
• spring copulation - grafting a scion cutting onto a pruned rootstock.
  Copulation is called grafting by cuttings

All vaccinations are secured by wrapping them with elastic tape. The next year the harness is loosened.

Preparation of planting holes

2–3 weeks before planting, the soil on the site is dug up, freed from weeds, and planting holes are prepared.

The holes are dug half a meter deep and 1 meter in diameter. The walls of the pit should not be smooth; notches are made on them. The top layer is mixed with organic matter. Compost is a good choice as it will not only fertilize but also loosen the soil. If the land on the site is prepared in advance, then the roots of the seedling are sprinkled with the removed fertile layer.

Gardeners practice the following scheme for filling holes: the bottom is filled with humus, a layer of sand is added, superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added.

To avoid shading, the distance between the holes should be equal to the height of the mature tree.

Do not bury the roots. The neck of the tree should be 5 cm above the ground.

It is easier to plant with two people. To ensure that the trunk is perpendicular to the ground, the assistant must hold the seedling as level as possible while burying.

A stake is dug near the center of the hole and a pear is tied to it. After digging, watering and mulching with peat, manure, and sawdust are carried out. To better retain moisture, a hole is made along the edge of the circle around the trunk.

The most favorable conditions for planting are in September or October. At the end of April, before the beginning of the growing season, seedlings are often planted in the northern regions. By winter, the culture has time to take root and gain strength. It is better to prepare the holes in the fall so that the soil settles and becomes compacted.

How to care for a pear

Caring for a pear orchard during the season is approximately the same in all regions where it is grown.

Shaping and pruning pears

Without shaping, the pear grows very tall; many branches extend from the trunk at an acute angle and may later break off under the weight of a bountiful harvest.

An unshaped pear grows very tall, and many branches extend from the trunk at a dangerously sharp angle

To avoid the risk of branches breaking, young trees are shaped by bending their branches to an almost horizontal position and securing them with guy ropes. Such branches begin to bear fruit earlier.

If the branches of young trees bend back in a timely manner, additional formative pruning is usually not required. Sanitary pruning, which involves removing dried and broken branches, is sometimes necessary for pears of any age. It is carried out from spring to the end of summer, and in the south - in the fall. All large sections after trimming must be treated with garden varnish.

Video: how to prune a pear correctly

Feeding pears

Trees are fed in the spring, evenly distributing fertilizers over the entire area of ​​the trunk circles and incorporating them into the soil when digging. Approximate fertilizer rate per 1 m2:

• 12–18 kg of humus;
• 20–50 g ammonium nitrate;
• 40–80 g superphosphate;
• 20–40 g of potassium sulfate.

How to water a pear tree correctly

The pear is watered only during drought, deeply soaking the soil to a depth of at least 1 m:

• It is enough to water very young trees of the first or second year after planting with a watering can or hose with a divider at the rate of 2–3 buckets of water per plant approximately once a week.
  Very young trees can be watered with a watering can or hose
• Fruit-bearing adult gardens on a dwarf rootstock are watered 2-3 times a month, on a vigorous rootstock - no more than 1-2 times a month.
  The approximate watering rate is about 3 buckets of water per 1 m2 for dwarf gardens and up to 5-6 buckets of water per 1 m2 for vigorous ones. Pear on quince is early-fruiting and productive, but needs regular watering
• Traditionally, to water mature gardens, water from an irrigation system is directed through grooves into holes around tree trunks.
  Watering of mature trees is carried out in holes and grooves
• It is more correct to arrange not holes, but rings for watering in such a way as to prevent the base of the trunks from getting wet.
  The width of the rings or holes should correspond to the size of the root system, occupying an area approximately equal to the area of ​​the tree crown. Trees grow better if water does not fall on the base of the trunk when watering.

In gardens of any age, drip irrigation and mulching the soil with organic materials are very effective to retain moisture and prevent weed growth.

Drip irrigation and mulching are effective in gardens of any age

Diseases and pests of pear

The most common pear diseases in all gardening zones are scab and fruit rot, and the most common pests are the codling moth. Against diseases, trees are sprayed with copper-containing fungicides at the beginning of bud break and after flowering. Against the codling moth, pyrethroid insecticides are sprayed at the same time.

To maintain the health of the garden, it is very important to promptly collect and destroy affected fruits (rotten or wormy).

Photo gallery: pear diseases and pests

Scab often threatens pears Copper-containing fungicides will help against fruit rot Codling moth caterpillars pose a danger to pear fruits

Preparing for winter

Pear trees of winter-hardy, zoned varieties do not need any shelters that interfere with normal hardening and create a constant threat of bark heating during thaws. To protect against hares, young trees need to be fenced with a special protective net in the fall.

The feasibility of whitewashing is highly questionable, but if you still want to whitewash the trees, do it correctly:

• in the fall before wintering, and not in the spring for the holidays;
• only young trees with relatively tender and thin bark;
• whiten not only the trunk, but also all the bases of large skeletal branches.
  If you whitewash a tree, you need to capture both the trunk and the bases of the skeletal branches

Rules for planting pears

The roots of the prepared pear seedling are spread over a hill of soil mixture (in a hole) and sprinkled with earth. The stem of the seedling is shaken or lightly trampled in the hole so that there are no air voids. Having filled 2/3 of the hole, pour out a bucket of settled water (so that it is not excessively cold). After water has been absorbed, continue filling the planting hole to the top. Be sure to ensure that the root collar of the pear seedling is 3-4-5 cm above the soil. The root collar is located above the first roots and differs in the color of the bark on the stem.

The transition from the greenish bark of the trunk to the light brownish roots is the location of the root collar.

If the pear seedling is grafted, then the grafting site is located above the root collar (for beginner gardeners). Having finished planting, lightly compact the soil with your hands, prepare a roller 3-5 cm high in a circle with a diameter of 40-50 cm, into which another 1-2 buckets of water are poured. After absorption, the soil around the trunk is mulched, not reaching the central shoot 8-10 cm. At the end of the planting work, the young pear seedling is tied to a support through a figure eight. The entire warm period of autumn or, during spring planting, the entire growing season, the soil is mulched after watering. Mulch should not envelop the pear trunk: the young trunk may begin to rot.

How to speed up fruiting:

Depending on the biological species and variety of garden crop, there are methods both general and applicable to a particular species.

apple trees

Apple trees are pome crops and begin to bear fruit at the 5th and 6th year of life. In addition, the apple tree produces a harvest once every two years. Having enjoyed a bountiful harvest in the first year of fruiting, you don’t want to wait another year to collect the same harvest of apples. Breeders have bred varieties that, with proper care, produce a harvest every year; these varieties include: Mechta, Novinka, Anis, Sinap, Zolotoe Letnee, Bel Chernyshevskaya, etc.

You can speed up the fruiting of apples using all of the above methods. however, age, variety of apple trees and proper planting should be taken into account. Deepening the root collar during planting can affect fruiting.

pears

Pears bear fruit much later than other garden trees. It is recommended to buy annual or biennial seedlings. Three-year-olds usually do not produce a harvest.

To achieve earlier fruiting you need: Planting: a hole up to half a meter deep, filled with nutritious soil mixed with rotted manure, adding a glass of superphosphate, three tablespoons of ammonium nitrate and one hundred grams of potassium nitrate. Be sure to fill the top with nutritious soil and plant the seedling.

Feeding with a growth stimulator - sodium humate three times per season.

Planting different varieties with the same ripening period for joint pollination. For a self-sterile variety. For example: Vere Klerzho pears will need the Vere Vosk variety for cross-pollination.

cherries

Cherry is a heat-loving plant that previously could only be grown in areas with a warm climate. Now the situation has changed. Breeders have developed varieties that can bear fruit even in temperate climates. These varieties include Pervaya Lastochka, Kozlovskaya, Pervenets.

plums

Plum is an unpretentious crop, but for successful fruiting it needs calcium. Calcium is found in lime. Dilute lime in half with clay and apply it to the tree trunk. Metal objects, such as nails, can be buried in the tree trunk circles.

apricot

For successful fruiting, apricots need to create favorable conditions. It is demanding on soil composition and moisture. It does not tolerate loamy soils or close proximity to groundwater. To ensure optimal conditions for growth and fruiting, regular feeding is necessary. Organic matter - diluted manure, is applied to young seedlings. Fruit-bearing trees are fed with superphosphate - 850 grams, saltpeter - 350 grams and potassium chloride - 250 grams, in combination, once a year.

Another necessary condition is proper pruning. Skeletal branches are not cut, only shoots that grow from them are removed. It is good to do double pruning, once in March - after this the shoots grow faster. The second in June - the apical buds are removed.

Apricot is a heat-loving crop. If the weather during flowering is unfavorable, and even worse, it is subject to return frosts, it will no longer produce a harvest. But there are techniques that can be used to save this delicate tree.

cherries

If you want to plant cherries in your garden, choose a sunny place for it. There should be no trees or other obstacles nearby that will block it from sunlight.

Cherry is a self-fertile crop, so it is imperative to plant two trees nearby, the second one will serve as a pollinator. In the tree trunk circle you can plant plants that will have a beneficial effect on growth and development - hosta, jasmine, primrose. Cherries love neutral soils. Limestone can be added once every five years and then watered well.

Pear pruning

Pruning a pear is one of the main techniques for obtaining a high yield of good quality. There are 3 types of pruning:

• formative,
• sanitary support,
• rejuvenating.

Formative pruning of pear

Formative pruning is used in the first years of seedling growth and development. It is aimed at creating a crown. Pears produce high yields, but if the crown is not formed correctly, the skeletal branches may break off, the tree will bend or develop one-sided. In pear gardening there are quite a few types of formative prunings - palmette, column, pyramid and others. To properly form the crown, it is better to invite a specialist. When doing self-formative pruning, the most accessible and easy-to-perform types are usually used:

• without tier,
• whorled-tiered or sparsely layered.

When forming the crown of a pear, you must strictly follow several rules:

• the main skeletal branches should be directed evenly in different directions,
• the angle of divergence of the skeletal branch (first tier) from the trunk must be obtuse and be at least 90-120 degrees,
• the optimal number of skeletal branches during tiered formation is 3-4 in the first and 2-3 in the second,
• branches of the second tier should always be positioned so that they grow in the free space of the branches of the first tier, so as not to shade it.

Tierless formation of pear crown

The next year after planting, in the phase of swelling of the buds on the central stem, all shoots are cut to a height of 40-45 cm. This is a standard. The branches of the crown will be located higher. A well-developed eye is left at the top point of the trunk. This will be the lowest skeletal branch of the first order. From this bud, measure 25-30 cm and find the next bud for the second skeletal branch. It is necessary that this bud be located in a spiral on the other side of the central shoot and, as it were, balance the future load of branches with fruits.

If the height of the pear seedling allows, you can arrange the third bud in a spiral - the third skeletal branch and leave a continuation shoot. He is a leader and ensures the growth of culture. To prevent the tree from being too tall (preferably no more than 3 m), over time the central shoot is shortened by 20-25-35 cm and the nearest well-developed bud or branch is left as the leader. With this technique, the pear stops its growth in height.

With this formation of the crown, all branches between the main skeletal branches are cut into a ring. Form 2-3 shoots of the second order. Adhering to the same rules - uniform load of wood from different sides. In subsequent years, sanitary, thinning and rejuvenating pear pruning is carried out.

Whorled-tiered formation of the pear crown

1st year after planting.

In the spring, during the swelling phase of the buds, a pear trunk 40-45 cm high is formed. All side shoots on the trunk are cut into a ring.

Then measure 70-90 cm on the central shoot up from the trunk for the first tier. In this space, 3-4 of the most developed pear buds are noted, located 15-25 cm on opposite sides of the central stem (at 90-120 degrees). These branches are cut by 1/2-1/3 so that they are approximately the same length. The remaining intermediate branches are removed into the ring. Some gardeners prune them short and leave them to bear fruit.

After 15-20 cm above the third bud of the first tier, the central shoot of the pear is cut off, which serves to continue the growth of the tree.

2nd year after planting

The formation of the first tier of the pear crown is completed. The central stem and skeletal branches are not touched. The growth of the central stem between the skeletal branches of the first tier is removed into a ring. The side shoots on the central trunk above the first tier are shortened.

3rd year after planting

In the spring, during the swelling phase of the buds, approximately 40-45 cm are measured from the upper skeletal branch of the first tier and all pear branches are cut into a ring.

From the blossoming buds, 2 buds are selected higher along the central shoot, located 20-25 cm from each other on different sides. Their location on the central shoot should not coincide with the branches of the first tier, so as not to shade them in summer. The branches of the 2nd tier of the pear are placed at intervals in relation to the skeletal branches of the first tier.

All branches between the skeletal branches of the second tier are also removed or shortened, as when forming the first tier. Skeletal branches are cut by 1/3, aligned in length. The central stem is shortened by 15-20 cm.

4th year after planting

The central stem of the pear tree is shortened to a side branch to weaken the tree's upward growth. Pruning is carried out at a level of 40-45 cm from the upper skeletal branch of the second tier. All skeletal branches are shortened by 1/3-1/4 and some branches that have grown between the tiers. The rest of the growth in the tiers, on the trunk and thickening the tiers, is removed to the ring.

5-6 years after planting

By this time, the height of the pear reaches 2.5-3.5 m. Above the upper skeletal branch, the central conductor must be cut so that the tree stops growing upward.

In the formed crown, 2nd order branches should be at a distance of 90-100 cm from the central trunk and 50-60-70 cm from each other.

With normal growth of adult trees, after 5-6 years the crown is thinned (if necessary, the branch is cut into a ring) and limited pruning of the skeletal and semi-skeletal branches of the pear. Growth and branches shorter than 25-30 cm are not cut or shortened, they are left for fruiting.

In order for the tree to form correctly, it is necessary to create a strong crown, on the skeletal branches of which annual growths and fruit links will develop. To do this, at the beginning of summer (July 10-20), strong twine is tied to the middle of 1-2 summer skeletal branches of the pear, without tightening, bent down and tied to the central trunk. The skeletal branch should form a horizontal line and not bend in an arc. The next year, the same procedure is done with the skeletal branches of the second tier. The branches remain in a tethered state until lignification.

The twine is removed, and the pear branches remain horizontal. Some gardeners tie the lower end of the twine to heavy objects at the base of the trunk (bricks, cauldrons, etc.). With this method of bending, you need to ensure that the branches are maintained horizontally. Some gardeners annually prune branches with a small deflection angle to the outer bud. The skeletal branches of the second tier of the pear are subordinate to the length of the branches of the first tier (they are left shorter).

Pear trees. © own

Sanitary maintenance pruning of pear

Pruning is carried out annually after leaf fall and in early spring. The main goal is to remove thickening, inward-growing crowns and diseased branches. Regulate the growth of skeletal branches. When pruning in spring, the annual growth of the previous year is shortened.

Rejuvenating pear pruning

Rejuvenating pruning of a pear is carried out when the tree is very thick and the annual growth is greatly reduced. The skeletal and semi-skeletal branches of the crop on both tiers are sparsely covered with overgrown branches and stand bare. During this period, the crown is greatly lightened, removing some skeletal branches. The central trunk of the pear is shortened to a side branch, which allows nutrients to be redistributed to the tiered branches and overgrowing branches. Shortening and thinning promotes a more intensive supply of nutrients to the fruit-forming branches, which helps to increase fruit set and improve their quality indicators.

Planting a pear orchard

To plant a pear orchard, choose well-lit places on gentle slopes. For northern gardening (Leningrad region, Moscow region, Ural, Siberia) only slopes in the southern, south-eastern and south-western directions are suitable. In the south - any, except for the steep northern ones.

Southern pears require soil acidity in the range of 6.0–7.5. Northern varieties grafted onto the Ussuri pear or created with its participation prefer acidity in the range of 5.5–6.5.

Groundwater problem

For a pear on a vigorous seed rootstock, the groundwater should be no closer than 1.5–2 m from the soil surface; for a weak-growing pear on a quince, 1 m is sufficient.

Planting seedlings on mounds, which was widely promoted in the 80s and 90s, did not pay off in the long term; such trees are very short-lived. The roots nevertheless grew to underground water, which is why the tree died, or it froze in a frosty winter with little snow.

Most of the recommendations on water disposal found in the specialized literature are aimed at large industrial gardening farms. The possibilities of an individual amateur gardener and even an individual gardening cooperative in this regard are very limited. Here are some of the most typical examples:

• A plot of land directly on the shore of a large body of water (river or lake), partially flooded with water in the spring.
  This is irreparable. Trees will never be able to grow in the flooded area. A flooded area on the shore of a reservoir is an irreparable problem
• The site is in a low relief (ravine, deep valley between hills), in spring there is water on the site.
  If it is a narrow and deep ravine, it is useless to do anything: in such places it is too dark, and in winter the trees will inevitably freeze due to stagnation of cold air. If it is a wide valley with a noticeable slope to the south, southeast or southwest, then the conditions for trees are more favorable. In this case, in its deepest part, you need to dig a longitudinal ditch to drain spring waters and strengthen its bottom and walls well. An area in a valley can be drained by digging a ditch to drain the water.
• A plot of land in a suburban village, along the edge of which there is a ready-made public drainage ditch, but the ground there is still damp.
  If the spring water level in the ditch is noticeably below the ground surface, the situation can be relatively easily corrected by installing a drainage system. If the water in a common ditch is level with the surface of the site, this is irreparable. Laying drainage pipes on a site is effective if there is a public drainage ditch

Drainage system design

Procedure for arranging the drainage system:

1. In the direction of the drainage ditch along the site, you need to dig several trenches 1–2 m deep with a slight slope towards the ditch. The bottom of the trenches in their lowest part should be higher than the maximum water level in the ditch. The distance between trenches is from 3 to 10 m.
2. A layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel is poured into the trenches and special ceramic or concrete drainage pipes with numerous holes are laid.
   At the joints, their edges are adjusted and covered on top with pieces of tiles. Drainage pipes are laid in ditches over a layer of crushed stone and gravel
3. The pipes are covered with a layer of gravel and then with earth.
   From above, drainage ditches with laid pipes are covered first with gravel, then with earth.

Planting seedlings

In the conditions of the North-West, central and northern regions of the middle zone, in the Urals and Siberia, pears are planted only in the spring, from late April to late May. In the south, this is usually done in the fall, in October. In the Black Earth Region, spring or autumn planting is possible.

The distance between vigorous pear trees should be from 5–6 m in the north and 7–8 m in the south. Dwarf varieties on quince rootstock are planted according to a 3x2 m pattern with the obligatory installation of supports.

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Dwarf trees require support installation

The depth of planting pits for dwarf seedlings is 50–60 cm, for vigorous ones – up to 1 m. The diameter of planting pits is 80–100 cm.

The depth of the planting pit for dwarf seedlings should be 50–60 cm

Procedure for landing:

1. Drive a planting stake into the center of the hole.
2. Place a mound of earth mixed with a bucket of humus at the bottom.
3. Place the seedling on a mound, spreading out the roots.
4. Tie the seedling to a stake so that the root collar is fixed at the level of the soil surface.
5. Carefully fill the hole with soil.

It is better to water when planting in 2 steps: 1 bucket of water into the hole before planting and another bucket of water from a watering can with a divider immediately after planting to compact the soil around the roots.

When planting, the seedling must be watered

Video: planting a pear

Choosing a location and planting a pear

The pear is distinguished by several features. The culture is light-loving. Tolerant of high moisture content in the root area, but does not tolerate prolonged damp fogs. A few damp days and the pear becomes sick with fungal and bacterial diseases. Therefore, in mixed country gardens it is better to plant it in the outer rows, in the most illuminated places accessible to winds (but not drafts).

When planted in lowlands, places with high groundwater levels, or in drafts, pear trees develop poorly and quickly die. In areas occupied by a garden, it is rational to allocate a place for pears on the south, west or southwest side. Pear is a cross-pollinated crop, so usually 2-3 trees of different varieties are planted.

Pear soil requirements

Like other crops, pear grows and develops normally on fertile soils with good moisture and air permeability. The clay layer does not affect the development of the pear, which requires some moisture retention at the base of the root system. If the soils are dense in physical terms, but depleted in nutrients, then a mixture is prepared from the upper layers of the earth when digging a planting hole, adding humus or compost for loosening, and mineral fertilizers.

Planting period for pear seedlings

Depending on the region, pears are planted in autumn or spring. Spring plantings are preferable in the northern regions and central Russia with cold winter temperatures. Pear planting begins in April, when warm weather sets in without returning frosts.

In the southern and other regions, with snowy winters and relatively long warm autumns, it is better to plant pear seedlings in the autumn. The sultry spring of warm regions often depresses the seedling, causing the aboveground part to dry out and die. The optimal period for planting seedlings in the south is the end of September, the first half of October. With a long warm period, pear seedlings have time to take root and adapt to new living conditions. The culture does not like transplants, so seedlings are planted immediately in a permanent place, especially 3-4 year old ones.

Preparing the soil for planting pears

The area for a pear orchard or individual plantings must be prepared in advance. When digging, add compost or humus up to 10 kg/sq. m and up to 100 g of nitrophoska or 50-60 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium salt. If the soil is acidified, add dolomite flour or 2 cups of ash.

Preparation of planting holes

For spring planting of pear seedlings, the planting hole is prepared in the fall. It is dug out to be quite capacious - 70x70 cm and up to a meter deep. On light soils, a 10 cm layer of clay is placed at the bottom of the pit to retain irrigation water or precipitation. A 10-15-20 cm layer of compost or humus (not manure) is placed on top. The layers are covered with prepared soil mixture and left until spring.

For autumn planting of pears, the planting hole is prepared 2-3 weeks before planting the seedling. In the same way, prepare a cushion at the bottom of the planting hole, the dimensions of which correspond to the volume of the root system. A wooden support is installed in the center of the hole, to which the pear seedling will be tied after planting. Planting seedlings in prepared holes is carried out as usual.

Digging a hole for a pear seedling. © Nelle

Planting a pear tree. © Nelle

Compacting the soil around a pear seedling. © Nelle

Preparing the soil mixture

The soil mixture for filling the hole when planting pear seedlings is prepared from the top most fertile layer of soil, which is mixed with humus, compost or high-moor peat, 50-60 g of nitrophoska or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, respectively 30 and 20 g, are added to a bucket of this mixture. approximately 100-150 g of wood ash.

Preparing a pear seedling

For planting, it is better to buy 1-2 year old seedlings. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the quality of the pear grafting and the condition of the seedling itself. The bark should be smooth and uniform. The pear seedling itself is elastic, not dry. The root system is alive - when cut, it is light, moist, in shades characteristic of the variety. A day before planting, the roots of the seedling are dipped into a bucket with a solution of root or other root stimulant. It is also added to the water that is poured into the planting hole.

Before planting, the central and long lateral roots are cut off by 10-12 cm. If there were leaves on the stem, they are torn off, and the side branches are cut off. The finished pear seedling is a shoot 75-85 cm high without side shoots.

How to grow a pear in a bottle

Growing an exotic curiosity - a pear in a bottle - is not at all difficult:

1. After the pear blooms, you need to select several conveniently located ovaries.
   To grow a pear in a bottle you will need its ovaries
2. Carefully place each selected ovary, along with the branch on which it grows, into the bottle.
   The young pear ovary along with the branch must be carefully inserted into the bottle
3. Carefully secure bottles with ovaries inside, tying them to thick branches or support posts.
   Bottles with ovaries are securely secured by tying them to large branches
4. Pears will grow inside the bottles.
   When the fruits on the tree are ripe, the branches need to be carefully pruned. After the fruits in the bottles ripen, the branches need to be pruned
5. For long-term storage, bottles of pears are filled with strong alcohol.
   To store pears in bottles, they are filled with strong alcohol.

Stony pulp cells

The pear is rich in nutrients; according to this indicator, it is among the leaders among fruits. It is believed that the human body is able to absorb more beneficial vitamins and minerals from pear pulp than from apple pulp.

Glucose, fructose and sucrose are easily digestible sugars found in fruits. Sorbitol is found in unripe fruits. Cultivated varieties contain more sugar than wild varieties. However, in the southern regions you can find quite sweet game.

The pear contains a large number of stony cells, they are called granules. They are essentially lignified fiber (cellulose). These cells contain lignocellulose, which consists of cellulose and lignin, as the name suggests. During storage, the fruits of most varieties become softer and softer over time, which means that the process of de-wooding of stony cells is taking place in them.

It is because of the granules that it is not recommended to eat pears on an empty stomach; they can cause a feeling of discomfort in the stomach. It is better to eat fruit half an hour after the main meal.

Also, people with diseases of the gastrointestinal tract should not abuse pears. For some illnesses, eating fruits is completely prohibited!

What do the deadlines depend on?

It is impossible to determine exactly the age or time when a pear begins to bear fruit - it is individual for each variety. Some pears (Pamyati Yakovlev, Bere Moskovskaya, Severyanka) give the first harvest after 3–4 years, others after 5–6 years (Dubovskaya early, Augustinka, Talitsa), some at 6–7 years of life (Williams, Forest Beauty, Bere Giffard ). There are also those from which you have to wait 8–10 years for harvest (Tonkovetka). This period is necessary for the tree to take root in a new place, grow and get stronger.

However, pear fruiting depends not only on varietal characteristics, but also on many external factors:

• soil quality. Pears are quite demanding on the composition of the soil. In fertile areas there are usually no problems with fruiting. But owners of not very high-quality land have to mix different soils and add fertilizers to the planting hole in order to somehow improve the situation;
• Acidity is also important for pears. In acidic soil, the tree will hurt, so you need to check the acidity and, if necessary, level it. Overwatering also has a negative effect on the pear. If groundwater is close, the roots will rot, which will affect flowering and the number of fruits;
• improper planting or transplantation. The pear, unlike other fruit trees, can take a long time to take root in a new place, since replanting is a lot of stress for it. Transplants are especially destructive for mature seedlings or mature trees. Another reason why a pear does not produce a harvest is too deep, or, conversely, insufficient deepening of the root collar, which is often the sin of novice gardeners. Such a tree needs to be saved: depending on the situation, remove the earth from the neck or use a shovel to pour the missing soil around the tree;

• low temperatures. Pears are less frost-resistant than apple trees, and their flowering begins earlier. Therefore, the situation when a profusely flowering tree does not produce a harvest is familiar to many gardeners. The reason is that even with the slightest return frost, pear flowers fall off, and there can be no talk of any harvest. Trees also often freeze in winter. A particularly dangerous period for them is the beginning of winter, when the ground is frozen and the snow has not yet fallen. Therefore, it is recommended to cover any variety of pear for the winter;
• self-infertility. This is the most common reason for the absence of fruits. Most pears, with the exception of modern columnar varieties, are not capable of self-pollination, and only a few are partially self-pollinating. Therefore, it is the gardeners themselves who are to blame for the fact that the pear tree blooms, but there is no ovary, since they do not take this feature into account. In order for a pear tree to produce crops regularly, a couple of trees of a different variety with the same flowering period should be planted next to it. The varieties need to be selected wisely - the quality of the fruit depends on this;
• low-quality seedlings. You need to purchase planting material from trusted nurseries. If you purchase a seedling from a random seller, there is a high probability that the promised varietal pear will grow into an ordinary “wild one”. And the matter may not be a matter of deception, but of an illiterate vaccination. By the way, when purchasing a seedling from a nursery, be sure to ask what year this pear usually bears fruit after planting, because there are varieties that need to wait 15 years or more for fruiting;

• Pests. Gardeners typically become vigilant as harvest approaches. They make sure that the pears are not damaged by rot or parasites. But you shouldn’t discount the pests that parasitize in early spring (sweetworms, bud mites). These insects wake up early after winter, feed on the juices of shoots and buds, after which the tree can no longer bloom.

And this is a list of the main, but not all, reasons that complicate the cultivation and fruiting of pears in home gardens.

Appearance and homeland of pear

Pear is a fruit known to every child in the CIS and beyond. This fruit tree was one of the first to be cultivated. You can find mention of it in many ancient literary works. They knew about it in China, Persia, and the Roman Empire.

The homeland of the pear has not been precisely established; some believe that it is Transcaucasia, others believe that it is Central Asia. But it is believed that the plant began to be cultivated in Ancient Greece.

At the moment, the number of known varieties of pears is in the thousands. It grows in most countries with warm and temperate climates.

The fruit of a pear (which, as we know, has the same name) looks like a light bulb, and a well-known riddle was even born on the basis of this analogy. However, this comparison is conditional, because some varieties can boast round or irregularly shaped fruits. When a pear is ripe, its flesh is tender, filled with juice, sweet with a bright, pleasant aroma. Its fruits are not only eaten fresh, but many wonderful dishes are also prepared from them: baking, boiling, drying, canning, making juices, compotes, and jams.

Harvesting and storing pears

Different varieties of pear have their own ripening, harvesting and storage periods:

• summer varieties ripen in July-August and are stored for no more than 2 weeks;
• autumn varieties ripen in late August - early September and are stored for 1-2 months;
• winter varieties ripen at the end of September - October, and are stored for 3-5 months.

Winter varieties of pears have time to ripen only in the southern regions.

Summer varieties are harvested when fully ripe and used immediately. Autumn and winter varieties are harvested while they are still hard, when the seeds turn dark brown. Before eating, they must ripen in storage for 2 weeks to 2 months, depending on the variety. All pears are stored in the refrigerator or in a well-ventilated cellar with a temperature just above zero degrees.

You need to pick pears carefully, without damaging the fruits and branches.

When harvesting, it is important to pick the fruits correctly. To do this, you need to hold the branch on which the fruit grows with one hand, and with the other, carefully take the pear and turn it around the stalk so that it separates from the branch. For storage, fruits are collected only by hand. All kinds of fruit pickers damage pears and fruit branches, and the harvest that has fallen to the ground is deformed from the impact and is not suitable for storage.

Pear varieties

Pears are classified according to the following criteria:

• fruit size (large, small);
• fruit shape (pear-shaped, spherical, flattened, shortened round);
• by shelf life (summer, autumn and winter).

They are also classified according to color, pulp texture, and type of fruit surface.

The degree of frost resistance affects the choice of growing location.

Ilyinka. Early variety. Tall trees that bear fruit no earlier than 7 years. Average yield. The fruits are yellow with a slight blush and ripen in July.

Talgar beauty. Late, medium-growing productive crop. It has large pear-shaped fruits with a sweet but rough taste.

Melting. The variety is summer, resistant to fungal diseases and pests. The fruits are sweet, yellow in color with red streaks.

Yakovlev's favorite. Autumn crop, medium-growing, scab-resistant. The fruits are large, juicy, with a delicate texture.

Elegant Efimova. An autumn variety, medium-sized, high-yielding, unpretentious to growing conditions. The fruits are sweet and sour, medium-sized and red in color.

Rogneda. Refers to winter-hardy crops with a pyramidal or round crown. Sweet, aromatic fruits ripen at the end of August.

December. A young, high-yielding variety with autumn ripening. The sweet and sour fruits are medium in size and have a delicate aroma. Fruiting occurs in the 7th year.

Lel. High-yielding summer variety. The fruits are greenish-yellow, juicy with a sweet and sour taste. Can be stored for no more than 3 days.

Uralochka. Early-growing, medium-growing summer crop. Ripe fruits are yellow in color and have a sweet and sour taste. They are stored for up to two months.

Over the course of 3-4 years, with proper care, the following varieties of pears begin to bear fruit:

• Gurzufskaya;
• Crimean aromatic;
• Azure;
• Melting;
• Trembita;
• Vsevolodskaya.

Where and how does the pear grow in the garden and in the wild?

Pear is a vigorous deciduous tree up to 8–15 m high, with a powerful taproot system that goes deep into the soil. Blooms in spring, April-May. The fruits ripen from July to October depending on the variety and region.

Southern pear varieties originate from wild forest pears, and more winter-hardy northern varieties come from crossing forest pears and southern varieties with wild Ussuri pears.

All wild pears (forest, Ussuri, oleaster, willow) in their natural growth zone and regions similar in climate can be used as rootstocks for cultivated varieties.

Table: features of different types of wild pears

Photo gallery: wild pear species

The Ussuri pear grows in mixed forests. The fruits of the Ussuri pear can be tasted in the Far East. The forest pear grows on forest edges and glades. The fruits of the forest pear are popular in Ukraine, in the central and southern parts of Russia. The pucker pear can grow on rocky slopes. The fruits of the pupa pear can be found in arid regions. The willow pear also prefers dry slopes and woodlands. The fruits of the willow pear can be tasted in Ukraine, Crimea and the Caucasus

Fruiting dates for cultivated and wild pears

Dates for pear fruiting to begin:

• wild pears and seedlings of cultivated varieties - 9–15 years after planting;
• grafted onto a seed rootstock - after 5–10 years;
• grafted onto a dwarf rootstock - after 2–4 years.

On a seed rootstock, a pear grows and bears fruit for 50–100 years, on a dwarf rootstock – no more than 20–40 years.

Features of pear grafting depending on the region

A dwarf pear is a tree of an ordinary cultivated variety, grafted onto a special rootstock - a vegetatively propagated form of quince. It grows no higher than 3–4 m.

Pear on quince can only grow in southern regions with warm winters. It blooms there 2–3 years after planting. In central Russia, quince freezes out.

Pear on quince blooms 2–3 years after planting

Beginner gardeners often confuse true quince with the more frost-resistant Japanese quince (Chaenomeles), but Chaenomeles is not suitable for pear grafting.

Due to the lack of zoned winter-hardy dwarf rootstocks, gardeners in the Moscow region, Leningrad region, Urals and Siberia often experiment by grafting pear onto ordinary red rowan, serviceberry and chokeberry (chokeberry). For experienced specialists, such vaccinations are often successful, although not very durable. On serviceberry and chokeberry, the pear grows short due to poor compatibility with the rootstock, but such grafting must be regularly updated due to the rapid death of grafted branches.

Photo gallery: possible rootstocks for pears

Quince can serve as a rootstock for pears only in the southern regions Japanese quince (chaenomeles) is not suitable for grafting pears. Specialists graft pears onto rowan. Chokeberry can also be used as a rootstock for pears. Irga is also considered an unreliable rootstock for pears, but is used in cold regions.
Sources used:

• https://proposadki.ru/plodovye/na-kakoj-god-plodonosit-grusha-posle-posadki
• https://naogorode.net/na-kakoj-god-plodonosit-grusha-posle-posadki/
• https://luckclub.ru/kak-uskorit-plodonoshenie-grushi-yabloni-chereshni-slivy-abrikosa-vishni-kak-uskorit-i-povysit-cvetenie-i-plodonoshenie
• https://fermoved.ru/grusha/na-kakoj-god.html
• https://gryadki.com/grusha/na-kakoj-god-plodonosit-posle-posadki-2-20286/
• https://diz-cafe.com/sad-ogorod/kak-uhazhivat-za-grushey.html

How many years does it take for a pear tree to bear fruit?

The lifespan and duration of the fruiting phase of pears greatly depends on the variety, growing conditions and care. On average, this fruit crop bears fruit for up to 40 years. After 20 years, the fruits become much smaller, they become smaller. Many pears live up to 80 years and during this time they bear fruit.

Dwarf, columnar trees bear much less fruit. They bloom in the 2nd year after being planted in a permanent place, but after 10-12 years they stop blooming. The lifespan of such trees is 12-15 years.

The pear blossoms but does not bear fruit

Another common case is that the flowering was abundant, but the ovaries fell off or did not form at all. There are several explanations for this phenomenon.

Lack of pollination

Most pear varieties are self-sterile, so there must be several varieties on the site for mutual cross-pollination. Even if the pear is partially self-fertile, the yield will increase significantly in the presence of another pollinator.

If it is not possible to plant several trees on the site, you can graft cuttings of one or more other varieties into the crown of an adult plant, which is preferable.

Return frosts

Early varieties often suffer from return frosts - if frost hits during flowering, the anthers and pistils are damaged, and ovaries do not form. Selecting varieties with multi-flowered ovaries or later varieties will help solve this problem.

If there are already early varieties growing on the site that suffer from return frosts every year, you can try to protect the flowering trees by sprinkling or a smoke screen when the temperature drops around zero.

Pests

Pear flowers are not as fragrant as apple or plum flowers, but they are also heavily affected by pests, which can destroy up to 100% of the crop.

• One of the most formidable enemies are flower beetles. The pear and apple flower beetles feed on both unopened flower buds and the flowers of pear and apple trees.
• Hawthorns can eat all the flowers and ovaries on a pear tree in a few days.
• The winter moth loves to feast on flower buds and flowers of all fruit trees, including pears.
• Female pear sawflies lay eggs in unopened buds, and the larvae infect the ovaries.

Timely treatment with insecticides, digging up the soil in the tree trunk circle in the fall and destroying fallen leaves will help protect against pests.