When and how best to replant a plum to a new place - in autumn or spring

How to transplant a plum to a new place in the fall - Summer Resident's Guide

In the middle zone it is difficult to find a personal plot on the territory of which there would not be a slender plum tree. For a long time, the crop has been valued by gardeners for its unpretentious nature, resistance to the vagaries of a changeable climate and, of course, excellent productivity.

When to replant a plum tree

Plum fruits, the color of which, depending on the variety, varies from yellow-green to bluish-black and purple-violet, are well known to many not only as a delicacy, but also as a medicinal product.

Ripe plums, which have a lot of beneficial properties, are recommended to be included in the diet for disorders of the digestive system, heart disease, anemia, and kidney damage.

If agricultural standards are observed, the crop rarely requires special attention from its owner.

However, sometimes, for example, when redeveloping a garden area, a tree needs to be replanted, as a result of which many questions arise.

When to replant a plum tree, in autumn or spring? How to do this correctly so that your pet can easily tolerate the procedure. Let us consider the culture transplantation technology in detail.

Timing of the work, location of the plum on the site

The optimal time for the event is the beginning of spring, until the buds wake up and sap flow begins, or early autumn, approximately from September 15 to October 20. Depending on the weather conditions of the cultivation region, the timing of plum transplantation may shift in one direction or another.

In case of emergency, the procedure can be carried out in late spring or summer, but plants tolerate such interference in their development process extremely difficult and will not bear fruit this season.

If the root system of the tree is damaged during the replanting process, the break may drag on for another 1-2 years. One way or another, the question of when to replant a plum is decided by the gardener himself, taking into account all the circumstances and external factors.

Before replanting a plum, you should choose a suitable place for it on the site - bright, sunny, protected from drafts and cold winds. The plum makes minimal demands on the soil - the main thing is that it is not overly acidic.

Close passage of groundwater is undesirable; the optimal depth is at least 1.5 m from the surface.

Regardless of the self-fertility or self-sterility (both of these concepts are very conditional) of the transplanted tree, it is advisable to plant 1-2 more plums in the neighborhood.

Group planting is an excellent technique that helps increase productivity, but the flowering dates of neighboring plants must coincide.

Which tree can be replanted?

You can transplant a plum to a new location before the plant is 4-5 years old. One-year-old plum trees and two-year-old seedlings tolerate the procedure best.

After transporting them to a permanent place of growth, the root system should be carefully examined for damage. All broken, rotten and shriveled shoots must be removed. If the roots of the plant are very dry, it is recommended to place the seedlings in warm water an hour or two before planting.

Plum seedlings

Very often, gardeners practice “relocating” young root shoots, due to which the plum orchard expands.

Cultivation of grafted plum shoots can bring unexpected results, since the offspring inherit the characteristics of the rootstock rather than the scion.

At the age of 4-5 years, plum trees begin to be prepared for transplantation 10-12 months in advance. At a distance of 70-75 cm from the base of the trunk, a groove 50-60 cm deep is dug, which is filled with a mixture of sand, peat, humus and shed generously with water.

During this period, the plant will form new roots inside the trenched circle, thanks to which it will endure the procedure painlessly. A year later, the plum is carefully dug up along with a voluminous lump of earth, cutting off the old roots with a shovel.

To prevent the soil from falling off the roots, the lump is tied in burlap and the tree is transported to a new location. Before transplanting, the plum trunk and the base of the skeletal shoots are wrapped in damp burlap for 15-20 days.

Transplanting a plum tree in old age can lead to the death of the plant, so it is recommended to avoid such a risky event.

Timing for transplanting plum trees to a new location in the fall

Fruit trees are replanted for various reasons. Often, a personal plot is redeveloped, and plantings are transplanted to other places, freeing up space for construction. Replanting a fruit tree is sometimes necessary to transfer the plant to another garden. In any case, you should find out when and how best to carry out this procedure.

Determining the timing for transplantation

The main rule when replanting a plum tree is the absence of frost. In autumn, plums are replanted in October. In the middle zone, the optimal time for transplantation is October 20–25. At this time, the soil has not yet frozen, and there is a month left before full frosts. Spring transplantation is less preferable. If there is such a need, the plant is replanted in May-June.

Did you know? Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain eats 2 plums in the morning on an empty stomach. Only after this does the ruler have breakfast.

During these months there is no threat of frost, and the soil has warmed up sufficiently. Depending on climatic conditions, transplant dates may shift. So, in northern latitudes frosts come earlier, so gardeners try to replant trees in early October. In the south it gets warmer earlier, so in the spring the plum tree can be transplanted as early as the end of April.

Caring for plums after planting: basic measures

Immediately after planting, the plum seedling must be pruned in order to align the root system with the above-ground part (this is done for a kind of “reanimation” of the seedling after planting, since any planting and replanting is trauma and stress for the plant).

How to prune a plum after planting in spring or autumn?

You need to leave the main trunk 50-60 cm high, making a cut above a healthy bud.

Next, the young tree will require careful post-planting care from you, aimed at creating optimal conditions for its rapid establishment in a new place.

It is not unreasonable to assert that one of the main conditions for successful rooting of plums is a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil. Therefore, if the weather is dry, then after planting you should carry out timely and regular watering (1-2 times a week), pouring out 2-3 buckets of water. In the future, watering will need to be carried out as needed, depending on weather conditions (in spring and autumn you can water 2-3 times a month, and in the hot and dry summer - once a week). And after each watering, if you have not mulched the tree trunk circle, it is recommended to loosen the soil at the base to improve oxygen access to the roots and at the same time weed the tree trunk circle from weeds.

There is no longer any need for additional fertilizing during this season, since all the necessary nutrients were added during planting, and they should be enough for the next few years (2-3 years).

And if in the future you don’t like the variety or want to have several different varieties on one tree at the same time, you can graft a plum using one of the well-known methods.

Of course, you need to carefully monitor the condition of your tree so that it is not suddenly struck by any diseases or attacked by pests.

The most annoying diseases that affect plums (as well as cherry plums) are cleasterosporiasis (hole spot) and polystigmosis (red spot of plums or cherry plums).

Plum polystigmosis

And in the fall, don’t forget to properly prepare your plums for winter.

It is especially important to mulch and lightly cover (insulate) young seedlings

And next spring you will again have to carry out a number of simple measures to care for your stone fruit crop.

Well, now you know everything that is required for proper planting of plums in spring and autumn, as well as what will be needed in the post-planting period. After just a few years, the plum will certainly fully thank the owner for the care provided with a bountiful harvest of sweet plum fruits.

Video: how to plant a plum tree correctly

Why is it necessary to replant a plum tree?

Gardeners with experience and accumulated experience are well aware of the preferences of the fruit tree and try to resort to replanting plums in extreme cases. The most common option for transplanting plums to new places is moving from the nursery after purchase. To the variety of types of fruit trees - the main argument for planting - there are always added equally significant advantages:

• the need for minimal care;
• immunity to pests (common in other plants);
• unpretentiousness to fertilizing and soil.

Having practical experience, site planning is carried out in advance. At the same time, they try to take into account the characteristics of each crop, its requirements for humidity and light. If the soil on the site is acidic, it will certainly be corrected, because plums do not like either high humidity or high acidity. In this case, there is rarely a need to transport any fruit variety. There are several common reasons for replanting plum trees:

• poorly chosen location of the plum tree, in which there is no possibility of pollination, or the requirements for light and humidity are not taken into account;
• transfer of a fruit crop from another place (from an abandoned plot, nursery, from neighbors who did not need the plum, from root shoots, in order to propagate a successful variety);
• planned construction when there is no other option for locating the required structure;
• demolition of a house and the desire to preserve certain views when moving to a new place of residence with an empty plot of land.

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Usually this happens at an age when the seedling’s ability to adapt is quite high, but even after transplantation during this period, difficulties often arise in caring for the tree after the procedure. The plum retains its unpretentiousness and immunity throughout its entire life.

Plum transplantation – Indasad

Plum is a moisture-loving tree; loves bright lighting and protection from northern winds; does not like soils with high groundwater levels. The roots are horizontal, grow at a depth of 20–50 cm, only some go to greater depths.

In adult plums, the roots extend beyond the crown perimeter by 1 - 1.5 m - this must be taken into account when replanting: digging up damages most of the root system. This leads to homosis - a disease when cracks form on the trunk with escaping gum (resin).

Transplanted plums older than 4–5 years do not take root well and suffer for a long time, so it is not advisable to move them.

Planting holes for spring planting are prepared in the fall, for autumn planting - 15 - 20 days before work. The size of the hole is 60–80 cm larger than the root ball of the tree. For a 2-year-old seedling, a hole of 70x70x70 cm of any shape is sufficient. When digging, the top layer of earth is thrown aside; The bottom of the pit is loosened with a bayonet.

If groundwater is close to the ground at the bottom of the hole, drainage is made from broken bricks, expanded clay, and stones. Then add the top layer of soil, 1 - 2 buckets of humus, 1 kg of ash, mix everything and fill it with two buckets of water.

Sometimes the grown root shoots are transplanted to a new place. If an adult tree has been grafted, then the work will not be worth it: the berries on a young tree may be small and sour.

But if the mother tree was also grown from shoots, and the quality of its fruits is decent, then digging up a seedling makes sense. In dry weather, its tree trunk circle is well watered, dug in at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk, trying to damage the roots as little as possible.

The dug up seedling is placed with its roots on cellophane and well packaged if transportation is required.

It is best to buy an annual seedling with a closed root system from a nursery. But seedlings with an open root system take root quite well if their roots are carefully packed and do not dry out. Before planting, their roots need to be carefully examined: rotten and diseased roots are cut off. For some time, the seedling can be placed in a bucket of water.

When transplanting a plum with an open root system, add soil to the hole to create a small cone in the middle. A stake is driven into the middle of the hole; A seedling is placed on the north side of it.

While adding soil, shake the seedling slightly so that all the spaces between the roots are filled.

The earth is carefully trampled down: at the edges of the hole it is denser, at the trunk it is lighter

When transplanting a specimen with a closed root system, peat, humus, fertilizers and fertile soil are poured onto the bottom of the hole, on top of the drainage. Everything is mixed, compacted and watered.

The seedling is placed on top so that the root collar is slightly above the soil surface. The gaps between the edges of the pit and the earthen lump are covered with fertile soil and trampled down.

A peg is driven in along the edge of the hole.

The seedling is covered with a rope, crossed with a figure eight and tied to a peg. Make a hole along the edges of the planting hole and pour 1 – 2 buckets of water with “Kornevin” into it.

The tree trunk circle is covered with a thick layer of humus or peat. After transplantation, the plum is watered weekly with fertilizers that stimulate root formation. In spring, the seedling is cut to a height of 1.5 meters.

In order for the plum tree to bear fruit abundantly, at least two trees are planted at the same time.

For a 4-5 year old plum, one year before transplanting, 70 cm from the trunk, in a circle, is dug in a ditch 50 cm deep; roots are cut off. The groove is filled with humus, sand, peat with the addition of ash; compact and water abundantly. Water several times during the summer; Many suction roots grow on the cut roots.

A year later, the plum is dug again along the outer edge of the previously dug ditch, trying to preserve the young roots. They gradually go deeper, cutting off the remaining roots and forming an earthen ball 70 cm thick. The tree is tilted and burlap is placed under it, then it is transferred to the underlying material. The roots are wrapped so that the earth does not crumble.

The stem and bases of skeletal branches are wrapped in moss or burlap, which are moistened with water for 2–3 weeks. The transplanted tree is regularly watered with Kornevin. In the spring, the conductor is trimmed to a third of the length and 2-3 year increments.

With good care, the plum tree can begin to bear fruit as early as next year.

How to plant a plum: features and step-by-step instructions

Before you run headlong for a seedling, you need to carefully study all the rules for planting plums. What do you need to know?

Video: correct step-by-step planting of plums

What should a seedling be like?

When choosing planting material, first of all, you need to pay attention to its origin. It is best to choose zoned varieties that are adapted to the weather conditions and soil composition of the growing region. It is not recommended to use seedlings from other regions for planting, since in most cases they do not tolerate prolonged low and high temperatures, grow slowly and die within a short time.

Since plums are divided into those that pollinate themselves and those that need other trees of the same species for pollination, you need to decide on the method of pollination. To do this, you need to take into account not only your own desires, but also the amount of free space on the site.

It is equally important to examine the appearance of the seedling. The first step is to assess the condition of the rhizome: it should be well developed with a central conductor of medium length. A normal root system should consist of 4-5 shoots, the length of which is more than 25 cm.

Important!

You should not buy a seedling whose conductor is cut too short.

The thickness of the trunk of a young tree should be 1-2 cm. In some varieties, the thickness of a 2-year-old seedling may be several millimeters more or less.

For planting, it is best to use one- or two-year-old trees.

Landing location

In order for the seedling to develop well and bear delicious fruits in the future, it is very important to place it in the right place. Plums should be planted in well-lit areas or in slight partial shade, only here they can form high-quality fruits,

You cannot plant plums in lowlands where water stagnates for a long time or in places where groundwater flows close to the surface. Plum trees growing in such conditions often suffer from fungal diseases, which is why they bear fruit poorly.

What you can’t plant with

According to the map of the combination of trees and shrubs, plums cannot be planted next to pears, cherries, sweet cherries and walnuts. According to the observations of experts, trees planted nearby inhibit each other’s growth and bear fruit poorly.

At what distance

The distance between trees depends on their variety. To ensure that large plum specimens have enough space, they are planted at intervals of 3-4 m; trees of low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 2.5-3 m.

Important!

When drawing up a site plan, you need to take into account the fact that many varieties are not able to self-pollinate, so they should only be planted in groups.

What kind of soil is needed

The ideal environment for growing plums is loamy soil with an acidity of 6.5-7 units. You can determine the acidity of the soil using litmus paper. To do this, take a handful of soil wet after rain and apply a test piece of paper to it. If it turns pink, the soil is neutral or alkaline. Red color indicates that the environment is acidic.

In this case, the soil must be alkalized before planting: first add slaked lime or dolomite flour to the area.

To improve sandy or peaty soil, a 10 cm high layer of clay is poured into the hole.

How and what to fertilize before planting

Even the highest quality seedling will take a long time to take root if the soil is poor in micro- and macroelements. To prepare the substrate, the following substances are added to the soil:

• 2 buckets of humus or compost;
• 2 buckets of peat;
• 1 tbsp. superphosphate;
• 3 tbsp. potassium sulfate;
• 3 tbsp. urea

You can fill the planting hole with a simpler mixture. Add 2 cups of nitrophoska and 200 g of wood ash to the fertile soil. The latter substance can be replaced with the same amount of fluff lime or dolomite flour.

After combining all components, the mixture is thoroughly mixed.

At what depth to plant

A week before the expected planting date, a hole with a diameter of 70-80 cm and a depth of 70 cm is dug at the selected location. When arranging a place for planting, the top layer of soil is folded on one side, and the bottom layer on the other.

If the soil on the site is heavy, the bottom is loosened to a depth of 20-25 cm. Then fertile soil taken from the pile where the top layer of soil was placed is mixed with fertilizers.

A wooden peg 110 cm high is driven into the bottom of the planting hole at a distance of 2 cm from the center.

Pour crushed eggshells onto the bottom and cover 2/3 with the prepared substrate. If the mixture is not enough, add fertile soil to the hole.

Important!

To prevent damping off of young wood, the root collar should rise 3-5 cm above the ground surface.

Landing technology

After all the necessary preparations, the plum planting procedure is as follows:

1. Having straightened the roots, place the seedling in the hole and deepen it so that the root collar is several centimeters above the ground level.
2. Cover the tree with soil, without any admixture of various fertilizers.
3. Then the ground around it needs to be compacted very well so that no air remains near the roots (it can cause the horse system to dry out).
4. From the soil that was dug out from the very bottom of the hole, a small mound is made around the tree, which will facilitate excellent water absorption by the seedling.
5. Next, the garter is tied to the peg.
6. The final touch is carried out - thoroughly watering the plant.

Video: how to plant a plum

Plum propagation

In the process of cultivating fruit crops, several effective methods for propagating plums have been developed. The plant is quite pliable and takes root easily, producing multiple shoots. It should be disposed of in a timely manner so as not to interfere with the full development of the plantings. The article will tell you how to do this correctly and profitably.

Of all the plum propagation methods, vegetative ones are the most popular:

• vaccination;
• cuttings;
• layering;
• germination of seeds;
• root shoots.

The first two types of plum propagation are artificial, the last three are natural.

Selection of material for transplantation

Plums older than 5 years do not take root well. Replant them only as a last resort with a large earthen ball. 1-2 year old plants with a height of 1.1-1.4 m with well-developed roots 20-25 cm long take root best. There is no standard for the number and size of branches for plum seedlings; usually, two-year-old plants have 3-5 side shoots.

When purchasing, pay attention to the following signs:

• branches are flexible, without stains, cracks, or other visible damage;
• exposed roots are treated with a clay mash or tightly wrapped in cellophane film, or, in extreme cases, immersed in wet sawdust;
• they should have 3-5 strong branches and many thin overgrowing shoots, clean cuts, without swelling or signs of rotting;
• the buds are at rest (if they are swollen, much less burst, the plant most likely will not take root).

Choose zoned varieties. Examine how well the grafting site has grown together, whether there are any cracks or peeling of the bark. For a small plot, plums on a dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock are suitable; large trees usually grow from those grafted onto cherry plums.

The crop produces abundant growth, which bears almost no fruit.

To correct the situation, transplant 1-2 year old single shoots:

• well developed;
• located no closer than a meter to the tree;
• located in a sunny location.

Please note that root offspring inherit the maternal characteristics of the rootstock, not the scion. For replanting, take shoots only from self-rooted or seed-grown varietal plums.

Optimal growing conditions

After planting, the first 7 years of fruiting are weak, after 12 years the period of highest yield begins. Based on such physiology, it is necessary not only to acquire, but also to create living conditions. Correct growth and acceleration of the onset of intensive fruiting depend on this. Lowlands in which cold air accumulates in spring and autumn are not suitable for trees; it has a detrimental effect on plants. A good place would be the border of the property along the fence or next to the house, which will protect from the wind, but not in the shade. Drought has a bad effect on fruiting; during dry periods, watering is organized. The optimal pH of the earth is in the range of 6.4–7.2. Plum is afraid of high groundwater levels. Therefore, if they are located at a depth of less than 1.5 meters, you can plant plums in the fall on specially prepared high beds or organize water drainage from the site.

Which tree needs replanting?

Sometimes objective reasons arise - the tree has not had any harvest for several years. This occurs due to improper planting or placement of the seedling. The need for cross-pollination presupposes that there are other varieties of plum, cherry plum, or at least cherry nearby. The latter option is not very desirable due to a possible discrepancy in flowering times.

It happens that a tree does not receive the necessary illumination due to an unsuccessfully chosen location, the construction of a building by neighbors, or the rapid growth of nearby fruit crops (a common mistake is planting a nut, which not only grows faster, but also has a peculiar effect on the crops placed nearby).

See also

Why do plums have worms in their fruits and how can they be treated? Read

Sometimes, when delimiting areas, it turns out that the drain is located on the line of the fence. Neighbors have complaints about non-compliance with distance standards and shading of beds with trees. The reason for replanting a plum tree can even be an extension in the front garden of an apartment building in which a plum tree is planted that is not designed for such transformations.

In this case, a good owner will try to save the tree, but an indifferent average person will simply cut it down without thinking. In any case, replanting a tree is a responsible process, the success of which requires care, optimal planting time and thorough preparation. You can try to replant any tree.

But success is guaranteed if it is one year old, it is doubtful, but possible if the tree is up to 5 years old, and then there is a minimum chance even with the most careful care and compliance with all conditions.

Selection and preparation of a site

To quickly adapt after transplanting, you need to take care of the temperature and soil composition. There should be a lot of sunlight; daylilies hardly bloom in shaded areas. An open place is chosen for the flower bed.

It is important to know! If the flowers are dark, then the shadow will only benefit and preserve the rich color. A plant with light petals needs more sun.

The bed should not be too low, otherwise the roots will rot. If there is no choice, use drainage. The soil should be saturated with organic matter. The best soil for daylilies is loam. If the soil is sandier, then organic fertilizers are applied. It is recommended to loosen dense soil with sand. And too loose soil is compacted with manure.

Preparation of the bush

To avoid damaging the roots, you need to dig around the bush at a sufficient distance

Next, carefully remove the bush along with the soil. You may need help for this, as the bush is heavy.

Then the roots are placed in a solution of a growth stimulator (epin, kornevin, zircon) for 4 hours. Then the plant will take root well.

If there are rotten or dried roots, cut them off. Next, they are placed in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect. The next step is dividing the bush. Every new plant must have at least one root. Damaged areas are sprinkled with coal. Then the leaves are cut off.

Dividing a bush - a method of propagation

Note! After adaptation, the daylily will quickly restore its leaves

How and with what to fertilize after planting?

The tied plum is watered again. The water should be settled and slightly warm. It is advisable to add a root growth stimulator to the water.

It is not necessary to fertilize the plum after transplantation, since the organic matter that was added to the planting hole is enough for it. The tree can survive 2 seasons without any problems with this feeding. For the 3rd season after transplantation, the introduction of nutrients is required: in the fall - potassium and phosphorus, in the spring - nitrogen.

Errors during landing

Inexperienced gardeners may do the work incorrectly, which leads to poor growth or even death of the plum tree. The easiest way is to study them, this will help you not make mistakes and ensure good survival of the tree:

1. Shading or planting in an area with high groundwater levels.
2. Deepening the root collar.
3. Severe damage to roots during transplantation.
4. Carrying out work after the buds have opened.

If damaged roots are found, it is better to remove them and treat all sections with a solution of potassium permanganate. If there are scratches on the bark, spray them with a solution of copper sulfate or cover them with garden varnish.

Planting a plum in the spring is not difficult if you know the features of the process and purchase high-quality seedlings. Planting and care in the first year are very important; it determines whether the plant will survive the winter and how quickly it will grow.

How to care for a plum so that it takes root

Proper care at the initial stage is the correct choice of location and preparation of the hole for planting. For about a year, the plum will have enough of what is placed in it, but already in the second year it is necessary to take care of fertilizers. Pruning is also best done after signs of final rooting appear. For good rooting, the first time you need to loosen the soil in the root zone, make sure that the crust does not cake on it.

The tree tolerates cold climates well, consistently produces good harvests and has many other useful qualities. But plums rarely respond positively to moving from place to place, take a long time to recover, and refuse to produce a harvest for several years.

How to choose a good seedling

It is necessary to take into account two groups of factors: varietal characteristics and fruiting characteristics, as well as the condition of the plant. If you buy a sick or severely damaged tree, even if agricultural practices and ideal growth conditions are followed, it will not take root. The most significant features are:

1. Harvest time. It varies from July to October, it should be selected according to the region; if the summer is not very hot, and the cold period can come early, it is better to use early or mid-season varieties. Options with a long growing season are good for the southern regions.
2. Sizes and characteristics of fruits. They differ in color, size, and taste. Some options are selected for fresh consumption, and others for preparations.
3. Is the variety zoned in the region? Choose only those varieties that grow normally in the region, withstand climatic conditions and bear fruit without problems. If you buy a non-zoned option, there is a high risk that the plant will not take root.
4. Frost resistance. One of the most important nuances, since if the tree is heat-loving, it will die after the first winter. Be sure to clarify the temperature limits that are permissible for plums. Ideally, there should be a reserve so that the seedling can withstand the winter without problems.
5. Pollination conditions. Most often, a tree requires a pollinator nearby for normal fruiting. If there is another plum on the site or the neighbors have, that will be enough. But if there is no tree nearby, you will have to plant at least two copies, and different varieties.

Advice! If there is not enough space for two seedlings, there is an option to graft 2-3 varieties onto one rootstock. The work is not easy, it is better to ask an experienced gardener for help.

After determining the appropriate variety, you need to choose a strong seedling so that it takes root normally and immediately begins to grow. This is easy to do if you know the basic nuances and follow the recommendations:

Type of root system. It can be open or closed, the first option is much cheaper, and the second is sold in a container with soil, so it takes root better, it is recommended for beginners. The closed variety is also good because it is less damaged during transportation, although it weighs more. Condition of the roots. In the open version, it is easy to inspect this part; the main shoots should be strong and elastic, with numerous branches, without damage, dry areas and dark spots of rot

Nothing is visible in the containers, here it is worth paying attention to the bottom, there should not be many shoots sticking out there, and to the soil on top - if it is very wet and damp, there may be rot inside. The trunk should not be crooked or deformed, branches in the lower part are not allowed

From the root collar to the grafting point, the optimal distance is from 7 to 10 cm. The minimum thickness is from 1 cm, the height is usually about a meter; if the seedling is long and thin, this indicates that it was grown in unfavorable conditions. The buds should not be open. It is recommended to plant during the period when the tree is dormant, so the presence of swollen buds, and even more so leaves, is undesirable. The tree will use all its resources to form the above-ground part, which is why it will not take root well and may die in the first winter.

Buy in stores or directly at variety testing stations, where the option you like will be dug out of the ground before your eyes. In markets, identical trees are often sold under the guise of different varieties, plus there is no guarantee that the grafting was done well.

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Pruning plum

Caring for plum trees in spring and autumn is impossible without proper pruning. Before we provide information about the rules of pruning, let’s figure out why it is needed. Some gardeners do not carry out this procedure, which leads to a decrease in the degree of winter hardiness of the trees, unkempt crowns and shrunken fruits. Main purposes of pruning:

Pruning of plum trees is carried out both in spring and autumn. Let's figure out how these two methods differ and in which case one or another method should be used.

Pruning plum in spring

For plums, spring pruning is preferable, since in summer it has a better chance of recovering from cuts than in winter. Spring pruning is carried out immediately after planting the seedling. Plums grow quite quickly and need crown formation. The best period for spring pruning is early summer or late spring. It is necessary to wait until the temperature at night does not drop below zero. Then the chance that the tree will quickly recover after pruning is very high.

Scheme of spring plum pruning by year

In the first year

After planting a tree in open ground, it needs to be pruned. Annual seedlings must be shortened from above with a sharp knife at a height of no more than 60 centimeters from the ground. The root system of the tree is quite strong, so it quickly takes root and takes root. In the first year of plum growth, it is necessary to monitor the correct growth of branches. Branches that take the wrong direction will need to be removed.

In the second year

the tree is cut 40 centimeters from the top, removing the top bud under the cut. Side guide branches are pruned in the same way. The lower shoots must be shortened to 7 centimeters. These branches are auxiliary and will not bear fruit. After the second year of growing season they need to be removed completely.

In the third year

it is necessary to select seven or eight strong, regularly growing side branches, and remove the rest in the same way as described above.

In all subsequent years

pruning should be limited to thinning the crown. It is necessary to monitor not only the thickening of the crown, but also the formation of forks, which should not be allowed.

Pruning plum trees in autumn

Despite the fact that most gardeners agree that plum trees are pruned only in the spring, many still carry out the procedure in the fall. Autumn pruning is usually carried out in September

when the leaf fall has already passed. At this time, the growing season has ended and the tree is ready for the procedure. The wounds after pruning should have time to heal by winter, which is why there is no need to delay autumn pruning.

It is necessary to remove all dead, dry and disease-infected branches, and shorten the tops. Fast-growing shoots also need to be shortened. Branches that thicken the crown should be shortened by about 30%. It is recommended to burn cut branches to prevent diseases from spreading throughout the garden.

How to care after planting

Since the seedling adapts throughout the season, it is necessary to provide it with ideal conditions for development

It is important to follow a few simple recommendations; they will not take much time, but will be of great benefit and will help you grow a healthy plant that will survive the winter. Remember the following:

1. Water only if the weather is dry and there is not enough moisture in the soil. Carry out the work once every 2 weeks, pour out 2-3 buckets of water at a time, let it sit for half a day so that it warms up to air temperature. It is best to do this in the afternoon after sunset, the water will be absorbed and absorbed by the roots faster.
2. Mulch the surface after each watering. This will prevent the appearance of a hard crust on the soil, and if you use peat, it will serve as an additional fertilizer. You can also use available materials: mown grass, dried weeds, straw, sawdust. Leave space near the root collar so that it does not rot.
3. If mulch is not used, then it is necessary to loosen the tree trunk once every 2 weeks, as well as after rains and waterings. Do not go deeper than 3 cm, do not damage the upper suction roots.
4. There is no need to feed the plum in the first 2-3 years, since the prepared mixture has enough nutrients.
5. In the fall it is necessary to prune. To do this, select the formation option in advance and remove all unnecessary shoots according to the scheme. If the tree is growing normally, then simply shorten the branches by about a third of the length. Use pruning shears, cut accurately and evenly, and carry out the work at least a month before the onset of cold weather.
6. If planted in Siberia or the Urals, then in the first winter it is advisable to protect the plant from the cold. To do this, build a wooden frame, place it and fill it with pine branches or dry leaves.

The pegs to which the tree is tied must be removed after 1-2 months, when the plum takes root and begins to grow. In summer, if the weather is very hot, you can shade the plant with agro-canvas, this will easily retain moisture and prevent burns.

Preparing a tree for transplanting

Transplanting a plum to a new location in the fall requires special preparation. 20 days before this, you need to dig a hole. The width of the hole should be 70 cm larger than the earthen ball. For example, to plant a 2-year-old seedling, you should prepare a hole 70 x 70 x 70 cm.

For spring transplantation, a hole is dug and prepared in the fall.

A drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick should be laid at the bottom. It will prevent water from stagnating. Creating drainage is a prerequisite for areas where groundwater lies close to the surface.

A layer of compost is poured on top of the expanded clay. A small amount of earth is poured onto it. Remember that the plum roots should not come into direct contact with the fertilizer.

The plum tree should be properly prepared for replanting in the fall to a new location. First, about 50 liters of water are poured under the tree. Now the plant is carefully dug in a circle. At this stage, it is necessary to carefully cut out a lump of earth in the form of a cone with a immersion depth of about 70 cm. Afterwards, it is carefully removed from the hole.

Nuances of plum cuttings

It is best to grow plums by cuttings. This is one of the most reliable ways to get healthy trees with tasty fruits. Having properly rooted the cutting, in a few years you will get a root-capable, fruit-bearing tree. Plum propagation in this way should be done using lignified and green cuttings.

Propagation of plums by green cuttings has become popular among gardeners quite recently. Previously, this method was used only in production. Its main advantages are rapid reproduction and a high survival rate of cuttings, which gives a good growth of trees per unit area. Using green cuttings you can quickly grow many trees of a certain variety.

But it is worth noting that not all varieties of plum trees take root easily. Specimens that develop a large amount of root shoots are good for this method. The result of propagation is also influenced by factors such as equipment, quality of planting material, fertilizers, cutting timing, and plant condition.

The easiest vegetative method is propagation by lignified cuttings. To grow plums from woody cuttings, harvest them during the dormant period. The main factor in this matter is the preparation of the mother plant - short pruning a year before cuttings. After this procedure, shoots appear on the tree, which can take root and develop independently.

Benefits of spring transplantation

When digging up trees, the roots are damaged. The gardeners’ task is to carry out the operation so that it quickly recovers, and by the time the buds swell, it begins to supply the above-ground part with plastic substances and water.

Spring plum transplantation has a number of advantages:

• there is a lot of moisture in the ground;
• the root is already growing, but the buds are still closed, regeneration occurs quickly;
• before winter the plum will have time to adapt to the new place and take root well;
• there is less chance that it will freeze;
• more selection of seedlings.

Varieties

About 250 varieties of plum trees have been developed. If previously the plum was considered a southern tree, now zoned hybrids with 100% survival rate have been bred. They produce good harvests both in northern latitudes and in southern regions.

The Svetlana plum was bred by seaside breeders; it tolerates frost easily and produces stable yields. The fruits are yellow, round, one weighs 26-28 g. It begins to bloom after May 10. The harvest is harvested in August. Sweet taste with sourness, the bone is separated from the pulp. One tree can produce up to 30 kg of plums. The first fruits are harvested in the 5th year of life.

Giant is a fast-growing, high-yielding variety. Fruits appear in the 3rd year when a two-year-old tree is planted. It has subspecies with burgundy, yellow-orange, and purple fruit colors. The pulp is sweet. Harvest in mid-September, fruits weighing up to 100 g.

Hungarian - prunes are made from this species. Varieties: Italian, Voronezh, Michurinskaya, Belarusian. Medium-sized trees reach a height of up to 4 m. The first fruits grow at 6-7 years of age, large up to 5 cm in length, elliptical in shape. Color lilac, violet, blue. The harvest is harvested at the end of August. Drought-resistant variety, life expectancy 25-30 years.

The pearl of the Urals is a winter-hardy plum, resistant to drought, and characterized by high yield. Chinese fruits size 25 g, they have dense, sweet pulp. Pearl bears fruit in the 4th year of life, 17-19 kg of fruit from each tree.

Precocious - plums appear in the 3rd year of life. A tree lives for 20 years. Harvest - up to 10 kg per plant. There is a bad harvest every 3 years. The weight of one fruit is 20-30 g, round in shape, yellow-orange color with a red side. The pulp is yellow, aromatic, sweet with sourness.

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HISTORY OF THE APPEARANCE OF PLUM

Ancient Egypt, Greece and Asia Minor are considered the homeland of plums. There, its tender, juicy fruits were considered “the exquisite food of the gods.” It was from plums that the first oriental sweets began to be made.

In the middle of the 11th century, the plum came to Rome along with the troops of Alexander the Great. It quickly spread throughout the countries of Western Europe, where its first large-fruited varieties were developed.

Later, settlers brought plum seeds to the American continent, where the local climate turned out to be very suitable for it. Quickly cross-pollinating with local species of wild cherries, it formed new plum-cherry hybrids.

Two dozen large-fruited plum seedlings were delivered to Russia by order of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich in the 17th century. He was a keen gardener and planted rare plants in his experimental garden in the village of Izmailovo near Moscow.

In the greenhouse, the young plants took root well and produced huge yields. The entire Russian nobility, following the example of the Tsar, began to plant plums in their winter gardens. The plum froze in the open air, so they began to actively export it to the south of the country.

Within two decades, this culture became one of the most popular in the southern regions of Russia.

Transplant technology

Transplanting an adult plum in the fall requires care and caution. This fruit tree is quite demanding

The prepared seedling must be delivered to the transplant site with maximum preservation of the root system. Sometimes it is necessary to transport a seedling over a long distance. In this case, the roots of the seedling are wrapped several times with a thick film. If transportation of an adult tree is necessary, the roots of the plant are placed in a wooden box.

Plum transplantation occurs in this way:

• Before planting, carefully inspect the roots. Damaged, rotten and large roots must be trimmed with pruning shears. Wood ash is sprinkled on the cut areas. If the roots dry out during transportation, they must be moistened with water. This will have a beneficial effect on the rapid restoration of roots.
• Together with a lump of earth, the root system of the plum is placed in the hole. In this case, the root collar should be flush with the soil,
• Carefully fill the hole with nutritious garden soil prepared in advance. Water the ground well, thoroughly moistening the soil.
• To protect the root system, the planting site is mulched. For these purposes, the ground around the trunk is covered with peat, soil and sawdust.

Mulching is very important for replanting plum trees in the fall. It reliably protects the roots from freezing

When planting a seedling, you should be concerned about having reliable support for growth. To do this, a stake is driven into the hole from the north side, to which the plant is tied.

Ideal time to transplant

Many people believe that plum trees should be transplanted to a new location in the fall. Experts recommend performing this procedure before the active phase of the plant begins. In addition to late autumn, the period of early spring before the start of sap flow is also ideal.

Young trees up to 5 years old are used for replanting. Two-year-old seedlings take root best. But old trees have an extensive root system, which is easily damaged during removal from the ground or transportation. The roots grow slowly, so it is difficult for the tree to take root in a new place.

Many experts recommend transplanting plum trees in the fall to a new place with an earthen clod. This method allows you to preserve the maximum number of roots.

In regions with relatively warm climates, gardeners sometimes use winter replanting. To do this, cut out a lump with the root system and frozen soil and place it in a previously prepared place. After thawing and sap flow begins, the plant can begin to bear fruit as early as next summer.

Possible mistakes when planting plums

Even in such a simple matter as planting a plum tree, novice gardeners manage to make several mistakes. Here are the most common ones:

• Plums are planted at an angle.
• Trying to create comfortable conditions for growth, they add excessive amounts of water and fertilizers.
• They do not take into account the growing strength of the selected variety and plant low-growing and vigorous plants at the same distance.

All that is needed to properly plant a plum is a little time to study the technology and bring it to life. After just a few years, the plum will certainly fully thank the owner for the care provided with a bountiful harvest of sweet fruits.

Video: how to grow plums

In a large garden or cottage there will probably be a tree that produces a harvest of sweet and aromatic fruits -. If plum trees do not grow on your site, it’s time to plant them. By the way, this is usually done in spring or autumn. Well, in our article we will talk about how to plant plums in the fall.

Autumn planting of plums - choosing a place and time

Since plum is a light and heat-loving crop, the best site for it will be small hills or hillsides that receive sunlight. At the same time, the site must be protected from strong winds. Fertile, but at the same time loose soil suits the tree. Wetlands and lands with groundwater above 1.5 m are not suitable for this purpose.

If we talk about when you can replant a plum in the fall, then it is best to choose a day at the end of September, when there are no frosts yet

It is important that the tree’s sap flow slows down, but at the same time it has time to get used to the new place

How to plant a plum seedling in the fall?

Two weeks before planting, you need to dig a hole up to 60 cm deep, about 80 cm in diameter. Fertilizers mixed with the excavated soil are placed at the bottom (a bucket of rotted manure, potassium salt 65 g, superphosphate 350 g). If the soil is dense, it can be mixed with sand to improve drainage properties.

When choosing a seedling, make sure that the plum seedling has a strong root system. For planting, it is optimal to use a one- or two-year-old seedling. It is lowered into the planting hole, the roots are carefully straightened and the soil is covered, periodically trampling it down.

It is lowered into the planting hole, the roots are carefully straightened and the soil is covered, periodically trampling it down.

It is important that the root collar was located at a height of 3-4 cm from the ground level. If necessary, stick a stick into the hole for the tree, which will become a support for the unstable plum. Then the tree is watered and mulched with peat or

Then the tree is watered and mulched with peat or.

If, due to circumstances, you have to plant a seedling late in the fall, then for better wintering, the plum needs to be buried in a small ditch at an angle and almost completely covered with earth, peat, and in winter also with snow. And already in April the young tree can be transplanted to a permanent place.

How to properly replant a plum tree in the fall?

It happens that a gardener needs to transplant an adult plum to another place, for example, more lit or closer to plums of other varieties, which will help improve the yield. Keep in mind that “relocation” is tolerated well only by young trees under 5 years of age. Two weeks before replanting the plum tree in the fall, dig a hole in a new place and put fertilizer on its bottom. The tree is dug up along with a lump of earth. It is recommended to wrap the earthen lump tightly in damp burlap. Then the plum is carefully placed in the prepared hole along with burlap, covered with earth, trampled down, watered with 1-2 buckets of water and mulched.

In central Russia it is almost impossible to find a summer cottage where plum trees are not grown. It has long won the love of gardeners due to its unpretentious character, good frost resistance and abundant harvest.

If you follow the simplest rules for growing fruit trees, plum trees do not require any special attention: they rarely get sick, are practically not affected by pests, and are undemanding in terms of fertilizing and soil composition. Questions arise only when there is an urgent need to move an adult plant to another place in the garden. In such a situation, you must strictly follow all the advice and transplantation technology shared by experienced gardeners.

Preparing the plant and intended planting site

3 weeks before transplanting the plum tree to the desired location, you should prepare a planting hole, the size of which will exceed the diameter of the plant’s earthen coma by 30–40 centimeters. A 4–6 cm layer of gravel, broken brick or other drainage material is poured onto its bottom in order to protect the roots from stagnant moisture and nearby groundwater. The next layer is compost or humus and a little wood ash. The roots should not come into direct contact with fertilizers; for this purpose, fertilizers are sprinkled with fertile soil.

The plum is removed from the soil just before planting. To make it easier to cut out an earthen lump, several buckets of water are poured under the tree trunk. After all the liquid has gone into the ground, the plant is dug around the diameter of the crown to a depth of approximately 70 centimeters and carefully removed from the ground, trying not to damage the root shoots extending beyond the coma.

Pruning during transplantation

Do pruning at the beginning of the season, but in order to reduce gum production, not immediately after spring planting, but when the buds begin to swell - after about 2-3 weeks.

Start forming the crown of young seedlings:

1. Shorten an annual plum that does not have lateral shoots to 0.8-1 m.
2. On branched seedlings, select the height of the trunk, cut all the shoots located below into a ring.
3. Above, leave only strong branches directed in different directions, shorten them by 1/3-2/3.
4. The longest shoots should be at the bottom, the short ones at the top of the crown.
5. Cut the central conductor (leader) so that it rises 15-20 cm above the side branches.
6. Make the cuts obliquely, at an angle of about 45 °C, on the opposite side of the outward-facing bud.
7. Cover wounds with a diameter of 5 mm or more with garden varnish or special paint.

Continue to form an adult plant using the chosen method, but after spring replanting, be sure to do short pruning and remove some of the skeletal branches:

• this will reduce the load on the root;
• will balance the underground and above-ground parts;
• will help a large plum to take root faster.

Advantages and disadvantages of autumn planting

Transplanting plum trees in the fall has a number of advantages:

1. The opportunity not to lose a year if the tree does not take root. If during the autumn replanting the plum tree fails to take root or is damaged, in the spring the bush can be replaced with a new one without wasting a whole year.
2. No need to rush in the spring. In the spring, it is important to plant a plum before it begins to bud, but the ground does not always have time to warm up, and you should not forget about night frosts.
3. In the fall, replanting can be combined with other agricultural work without wasting time.
4. The plum will receive a double “portion” of fertilizers - in the fall when transplanting and in the spring.
5. Having transplanted a plum in the fall, in the spring the bush will begin to develop immediately, which will allow it to grow faster.

Autumn planting of plums has undoubted advantages over spring

The disadvantages of autumn work include the lack of opportunity to monitor the plant. If in the spring the gardener regularly appears at the dacha and immediately draws attention to the problem, then in the winter the tree will have to wait until the thaw.

Also, in some regions, winters are unpredictable (they can be too hot or, on the contrary, warm), which also affects the characteristics of transplanting and growing.

When choosing the time for a transplant, it is important to focus on your own convenience and climate . For example, if winter is not constant and seedlings often die due to temperature changes, it is worth planting them in the spring.

Planting seedlings

A step-by-step guide developed by an experienced gardener: it is necessary to properly prepare the soil in the garden. It is good to dig up the soil not only at the site of the future hole, but also around it. Planting plums in the fall begins with choosing the optimal location and proper preparation of the land;

Before marking the seedling planting scheme, you should take into account the size of the adult plant, what shape and height the crown will be. In any case, the distance should not be less than 3 meters from each other;

a planting hole is required with a diameter of at least 80 cm and a depth of 60 cm; it is dug two weeks before the planned planting. For better drainage, sand is poured onto the bottom. Do not fill completely with fertilized soil. A peg is driven into the center of the hole; it is intended to become a support for the young plant;

Before planting, gardeners carefully examine the plant and trim off bad roots;

place the seedling, straighten the roots so that the root collar is located slightly above ground level (after watering it will sit slightly lower);

Cover the roots with soil without fertilizer, so as not to burn them, fill all the voids and gently trample them down. Then water, loosen the soil and mulch so that moisture is not lost.

After this, the question arises: caring for plums in the fall?

Basic landing rules

Before you start transplanting, it is worth remembering a few important rules:

• Only young trees, no more than 2-3 years old, can be replanted. At an older age, the plant already develops a huge root system, which will make replanting difficult;
• When digging, it is important not to damage the roots, otherwise the bush will need an additional year to restore the system. It is best to replant without cleaning the roots;
• when transporting a plant from one place to another, it is important to handle the roots carefully;
• When planting plums in the spring, it is necessary to prepare the holes in the fall; for autumn work, 2-3 weeks before they begin.

The nuances of replanting a plum tree

Plum is, perhaps, one of those trees that is not very interesting to pests, is practically not affected by diseases, and is also not at all picky about the composition of the soil and the frequency of fertilizing. The only difficulty that a gardener may have is replanting a plum tree.

The main law that should be adhered to: tree replanting must be carried out either before frost sets in or before spring warming. This is necessary so that the plant has time to take root and settle down in a new place. Otherwise, the amount of energy and strength for fruiting will not be enough, which means that you will not have to wait for the next year’s harvest.

As a rule, the need to replant a plum tree arises when nearby trees shade it. In addition, reasons include:

• improvement of soil parameters;
• possibility of pollination;
• if another tree literally crushed the plum;
• a large number of shoots;
• moving a tree when moving to a new place of residence.

Also, a plum tree can literally tell itself that it needs to be replanted. This happens when it stops bearing fruit.

This is influenced by the rapid growth of garden crops in the neighborhood, clutter with buildings, insufficient lighting, and the lack of pollinating plants.

As a rule, the ideal days for planting are the very beginning of spring or late autumn. In the spring, it is necessary to wait until the snow melts, but there is no need to wait for the soil to warm up. Moreover, this cannot be done in June or July. That is, the most important thing is to do all the work before the buds swell and the juice begins to flow. In the autumn period, you need to wait for the end of leaf fall, and, in order to prevent the roots from freezing, plant one month before the onset of cold weather.

About when to replant a plum, in autumn or spring, see the table below:

Moscow region and central Russia - in these territories, planting is permissible from mid-September to October 15, or in April. Siberia and the Urals require different timing, since frosts arrive much earlier. Although there is an opinion among summer residents that in the southern regions it is more effective to transplant in the fall, and in the northern regions - exclusively in the spring. In general, the approximate timing for landings is as follows:

• The end of April - the beginning of May, the first half of September is planting in the Urals and Siberia, as well as in the Leningrad region (North-West).
• Second half of April, until the end of September - Moscow region.
• March – early April, until the second half of October – South of Russia.

The most important thing that plums love is a well-lit area and warmth. Shade can reduce yields by almost half. But the shrub does not tolerate delays at the roots.

Plum planting pattern - 3 x 3 meters. The soil is allowed: peat, sod-podzolic, but the ideal soil is clay and sandy. It is worth remembering that the crop does not like high acidity, so it is important to periodically carry out deacidification: sand - once every 5 years, loam - once every 7 years, peat - once every 3 years.

There are several ways to deoxidize the soil: planting green manure plants, using alkaline agents or special preparations. The most common method is liming. The depth in light soil is up to 10 cm, in heavy soil - 20 cm. But due to the fact that lime can burn the roots, it is applied in the fall. Dolomite flour or chalk is preferable, and it is also fertilized in the spring, and it can also enrich the area with microelements.

The pit has been prepared since August. The plant must be transported to a new location on a sheet of plywood. This is necessary to ensure that the roots are not damaged. If the distance is significant, then it is additionally recommended to wrap them with cloth or a rag.

The stages of the spring process are as follows:

• if the roots are dry, they must be moistened;
• lower the tree so that the root collar is level with the ground surface;
• after planting, the space around the tree is filled with earth and compacted: air bubbles are not desirable;
• A circle is formed around the trunk, which is covered with peat or sawdust. This will retain moisture, preventing the formation of an earthen crust.

For a young seedling, you need to make a support in the form of a stake driven into a hole and tie it with twine.

Autumn transplantation is no different from spring transplantation. However, it is necessary to mulch the tree trunk circle more thoroughly by mixing sawdust or ash with peat.

Most experienced agronomists recommend buying seedlings in the fall due to the wider selection and quality, but planting them in the spring. One way or another, the characteristics of the purchased crop should be as follows:

1. 1. It is better to choose those varieties of plum trees that are suitable for cultivation in your region of residence.
2. 2. Seedlings come with OCS (open root system) and without it. It is advisable for beginner gardeners to buy the first option, for experienced gardeners - the second. A real ZKS is checked as follows: you need to take the barrel and shake it. If it sits firmly in the container, everything is fine; if it comes out easily, it means it was put in the pot not long ago.
3. 3. The grafting site should be clearly visible, as this directly indicates the varietal tree, and not the game.
4. 4. A straight, not curved trunk with strong, mature wood without sunburn, cracks, frost holes, or mechanical damage - this is an ideal crop. If the bark is peeling, but all other indicators are good, the seedling is frozen.
5. 5. The presence of leaves and awakened buds is the beginning of the growing season, and the tree is not suitable for planting. But this does not apply to ZKS.
6. 6. The seedling should look healthy in appearance and have no signs of wilting or damage.
7. 7. The tree must be between one and two years old.
8. 8. The ideal height is from 1 to 1.5 meters. If the plant is taller or shorter, then the care is incorrect and the sellers have over-fed it with nitrogen fertilizers. However, this does not apply to trimmed trees.
9. 9. A well-developed root system, with lateral roots up to 20-25 centimeters long, which should not be broken or overdried.

It is worth knowing: a young tree that is less than 5 years old reacts more easily to transplantation and takes root more easily. The old one, on the contrary, slowly grows root shoots and is more difficult to take root. And the system must be closed.

Preparation of plums before direct planting is as follows:

• The roots are very carefully washed from the old soil.
• Next, they are dipped in a clay mixture.
• Afterwards, their ends need to be trimmed.
• If the ends are sick, trim them to a healthy place.
• If the roots are dry, then they need to be soaked overnight or at least for an hour in special preparations, for example, Kornevin.

The planting hole is the place where the plum will grow. It should be about 30 or 40 cm larger than the earthen ball. Broken brick, gravel, or other drainage material is poured into the bottom in a layer of 4-6 centimeters. This will help protect the tree from possible proximity to groundwater and from stagnation of moisture in the roots. This is followed by humus or compost with the addition of a small amount of wood ash. There should be a layer of soil on top to keep the plant from coming into contact with fertilizers.

We continue to answer the question of how to replant a plum tree. The tree must be removed from the soil immediately before the procedure itself. First, several buckets of water are poured under the trunk, and when it is absorbed, you need to dig about 70 centimeters around the circumference. The diameter should be equal to the size of the crown. All that remains is to carefully remove the seedling from the ground, trying not to damage the root shoots.

The new planting site must be protected from sharp and strong winds. Shade and even partial shade are unacceptable. Other varieties of plums or cherry plums may grow in neighbors. Trees such as pear, sweet cherry, cherry, and hazel are contraindicated.

Plum transplantation is a very important stage for the growth and further fruiting of the crop. Therefore, after the action is completed, certain care is required:

• The young seedling needs the formation of a crown, so it will need to be pruned for several years. An adult tree does not need this.
• Nitrogen fertilizers are for spring, phosphorus and potassium are for autumn. And you should start introducing them only a year after the transplant.
• Watering in summer is carried out weekly: once in cloudy weather, twice in hot weather.
• After transplanting an adult plum, if it has produced a large harvest, supports are installed under the branches.
• After each watering, you should loosen the soil and, of course, weed out weeds.

Deadlines

You can try to transplant a plum tree in the spring immediately after the soil warms up, but until the moment when intense warming sets in and the tree is forced to develop without having time to take root properly or gain enough strength and energy:

1. There are more prerequisites for the success of spring transplants. If the snow has already melted and the soil has managed to warm up, but the movement of juices has not yet begun, the buds have not swollen, there is every chance for the plum to take root and successfully adapt to a new place. Over the summer and autumn, it will have time to accumulate enough strength to produce a harvest the following year.
2. To properly transplant in the fall, you need not wait for the first autumn frosts, but start the process immediately after the leaves fall.
3. At any other time, the success rate is minimal, even if you do it in advance and follow all the instructions.

The practice of replanting plums has been developed for a long time, because it was grown by the ancient Egyptians. But plums and any other fruit tree will need some time to adapt.

When is it better to replant: autumn or spring?

The best time to move a tree from its home is spring. Autumn tree transplants are resorted to when there is an urgent need, when there is no other option. The likelihood of sudden freezing is too high. But spring is also a flexible concept for different climatic regions. If April is considered optimal in the middle zone, then in the South it may be the end of March, and in Siberia and the Urals, transplantation is carried out in May, after the end of frost.

If the variety is winter-hardy, theoretically you can take the risk immediately after the snow melts.

Transplanting a fruit tree in autumn

When choosing an autumn tree transplant, you should take into account that the most suitable month for this is October. This is explained by the fact that at this time the air temperature has already dropped, but the soil has not yet frozen, which means the plant will avoid the risk of forming young shoots that will be destroyed by winter frost, but will have the opportunity to send out new root shoots in warm soil.

The step-by-step process of autumn transplantation is practically no different from spring. The only thing is that during this period it is especially important to properly mulch the plant’s trunk circle upon completion. This will ensure heat retention and protect young shoots of the root system from winter cold. It is good to use a peat mixture with wood ash or sawdust as mulch.

Advantages and disadvantages of autumn transplantation

Autumn transplantation has several advantages:

• Firstly, this is an opportunity for the plant to quickly enter the growth stage; before spring it will have time to adapt and be able to fully develop.
• Secondly, the plum tree will receive two portions of fertilizing before the new growing season - at planting and in early spring.
• Well, and thirdly, this will allow the gardener to calmly replant the tree without choosing a suitable spring day, when several factors need to be combined at once - the period before the start of sap flow, positive soil temperature and the absence of frosts at night.

Despite all the positive aspects, autumn transplantation also has disadvantages:

• This is the inability to monitor the health of the crop after the event; even if problems are discovered, you will have to wait for a thaw.
• In some regions of our country, the winter season is characterized by unpredictable weather conditions; winters can be warm or frosty, snowless or with heavy rainfall. All this certainly affects the condition of the plant. Therefore, if the transplant is planned in an area with possible sudden changes in temperature in winter, then it would be best to leave the procedure until spring.