The best grape varieties for Bashkiria: care, pruning

Vineyard care in spring

If you want to grow grapes in Bashkiria, care in the spring is key.
To obtain a guaranteed harvest, at this time it is necessary to carry out such measures as:

• vineyard irrigation,
• pruning,
• weeding and loosening the soil.

The spring work season in the vineyard should begin as soon as the snow melts.

• the distance between bushes of the same row should not be less than one meter;
• rows should be directed from north to south;
• the distance between rows is at least 0.3 m;
• the size of the landing pit should be 0.55 × 0.55 m, depth - about 60 cm;
• if the groundwater is shallow, the future vineyard must be provided with high-quality drainage.

How to prune three-year-old and adult bushes

Having noticed weak growth and shrinking of berries, it is necessary to remove the upper part of the sleeve and the weakest growing vines. Rejuvenation is also required periodically. In autumn, dig the base of the bush to a depth of 10-15 cm, pierce the roots several times with a sharp object. Remove the entire above-ground part by 5-10 cm. Lubricate the cut areas with clay, cover the bush with loose, moist nutritious soil. In the spring, remove the embankment, young shoots will begin to grow from the stump, from which new sleeves will be made.

• dry garter to trellises and supports;
• green debris to distribute the load of the bush in clusters and twigs;
• pinching the tops of the shoots 3-5 days before flowering or during the opening of the buds;
• normalization of inflorescences until flowers appear;
• pinching of second-order processes;
• minting in early August;
• thinning leaves 2-2.5 weeks before harvest.

Grape feeding

Standard grape care involves fertilizing. It is advisable to use slurry or bird droppings diluted in water as organic fertilizers. It is recommended to feed plants with mineral fertilizers in liquid form.

As a rule, during the growing season, about three root feedings and a couple of foliar feedings with microelements are carried out. It is believed that for the full development and abundant fruiting of a grape bush, a plant needs at least fifteen basic elements, therefore the application of complex fertilizers for grapes has a good effect. Wood ash can be used as a potassium-phosphorus fertilizer at the rate of 95 g per square meter of vineyard.

It is advisable to carry out high-quality mulching of the soil under the grape bushes, as well as equip the plantings with a deep watering system. Combining watering with the application of liquid fertilizers has a beneficial effect on plants.

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For example, many people think that growing grapes can be done without vaccinations

- just to properly fill the planting holes for new seedlings and then properly feed the bushes, prune them and cover them in the winter. And without all of the above, it’s really impossible, no doubt, but vaccination is the main reason for everything.

Especially when it comes to planting different new varieties. After all, not all of them are designed for regions with a changeable climate, although sellers claim that they will grow. There will be, of course, but it may not be for long. And if for a long time, then without good fruiting. This is where vaccination is needed.

If you already have a bush of winter-hardy grapes growing (especially if it, without shelter, is not damaged by frost), then it is on this that you can and should graft a new variety you like.

But I’ll say right away: this is a complex matter and requires certain skills. Although in our dacha life, everything once happened for the first time, so why not show our signature dacha courage here too? It’s not for nothing that they say that the eyes are afraid, but the hands do.

Since you are going to the garden to pick grapes, you need to master this activity. The main thing here is to clearly understand what needs to be done and in what order. This is what I will try to help with.

Usually I don’t prepare cuttings for this in the fall, but cut them with two or three buds directly from the trees in the spring. And first of all, I graft cherries, cherries and apricots, because their leaves begin to bloom earlier than others. What am I vaccinating for? For cherries, for example, I consider bird cherry a good rootstock, for apricots - cherries, for cherry plums - plums.

Caring for first-year grapes in spring, summer and autumn

Spring grape care consists of fighting diseases, pests and unfavorable external factors. For protection, spray the plant with 1% Bordeaux mixture, which will prevent the development of fungal diseases. Regular laundry soap (1 piece per 10 liters of water) will help against grape moths, fleas and spider mites. In addition, immediately after planting, young plants need to be shaded from direct sunlight for a couple of weeks, for example, using spunbond, plywood, shading mesh or other available materials.

Trimming

Grapes are very heat-loving, so the vine often freezes even under cover. In spring, two types of pruning are carried out:

• Sanitary. They start working on it right away, removing the cover. Damaged and dead shoots are found and immediately cut off.
• Formative. After sanitary pruning, the formation of the bush begins. This trimming is aimed at adjusting the length of the cordons and sleeves.

In order for the cuts to heal faster, they are made even, smooth, and neat. When cutting old branches into a ring, the stump should be small - no more than 1 cm in height.

Cuts are made on the inside of the bush. 4 buds should be left on the branches, 12-14 on the fruit shoots. Be sure to remove all root shoots so that they do not draw on the nutrients and strength of the plant.

Preparing the soil and pit

To properly prepare a planting hole for a grape seedling, you will have to try - this procedure is long and painstaking.

Spring planting of grapes requires preparing the hole in the fall. If you did not have time to prepare the hole in the fall, it is permissible to dig it in the spring - no less than two weeks before planting.

First of all, they dig a pit - its dimensions should be 80x80x80 cm: this is quite enough to contain all the nutrients and the root system of the shrub in a straightened form. Keep in mind that fertilizers applied when planting in a hole are laid for the next 3-4 years.

If the soil is clayey or dense, it is necessary to ensure good drainage. To do this, use broken brick or crushed stone mixed with coarse river sand. Drainage must be laid at the bottom of the pit in a layer of 10-12 cm. Also take care of increased phosphorus nutrition if the soil is clayey. It is necessary to add more humus or compost to sandy soil to make it more fertile.

Having dug a hole, divide the resulting soil into two parts: the part that was dug first should be used for backfilling. The lower soil is less valuable because it contains more clay and less nutrients. To make it easier to determine where the fertile part of the soil is and where the normal part is, immediately when digging a hole, throw back the soil dug from above on one side of the hole, and dug from below on the other.

Add the following components to the specified part of the soil:

• manure - 40 kg;
• nitrogenous fertilizers - 500 g;
• wood ash - 500 gr.

Mix everything and fill the hole with this nutrient mixture. If there is still space left, fill it with soil so that there is 20-30 cm of empty space left to the edges of the hole.

Thus, the pit “winters” until spring. Fertilizers under the snow will dissolve, settle and penetrate into the soil - the seedling will be provided with valuable nutrients for a long time. Immediately before planting, pour several buckets of water into the hole so that the final shrinkage of the soil occurs.

If the soil is sandy, it is recommended to plant grapes not in a hole, but in trenches. The same method is suitable for large-scale plantings. For clay soils, the formation of special beds is more suitable - lighter and looser than the main soil.

Preparation and planting of seedlings

It is quite easy to grow grapes in Bashkiria if you follow the planting technology. When preparing seedlings for planting, they are sorted. Today, varieties are often grown in Bashkiria that are not inferior in quality to grapes from the southern regions. The agricultural technology of planting and growing is very simple and accessible even to novice gardeners:

• It is recommended to plant grape seedlings in the spring, after the last spring frosts have passed;
• the minimum distance between grape bushes planted on the site is a meter, and the optimal distance should be about 1.5-2.0 m;
• the optimal distance between the rows of grape bushes should be at least 3.0 m, and the rows themselves should be located in the direction from south to north;
• for planting seedlings, it is necessary to dig holes, the dimensions of which are 0.55 x 0.55 m, and the depth is at least 0.55-0.65 m;
• when groundwater is close to the ground, it is necessary to provide the plants with high-quality drainage to prevent root rotting.

Before planting, 10 kg of humus or rotted compost should be poured into the planting hole, adding 0.3 kg of superphosphate and 55 g of potassium sulfate. Then the filled soil substrate is spilled abundantly with water. The growth point of the seedlings should be perpendicular to the ground, at a height of 2 centimeters.

Grape varieties in the Bashkir Republic

In general, the choice of grapes must be approached very responsibly so that it grows well and bears juicy fruits. It is best to grow in Bashkiria

the following types:

1. Alexander. The fruits of this variety have a dark pink hue, they are oblong and fleshy. The weight of the bunch is 137 g. This type is resistant to various pests and diseases, and also tolerates frost and snow well.
2. Anniversary. It has a large bush, the clusters are medium in size, and the berries are fleshy, with a nutmeg flavor and golden color. He is also not afraid of diseases or pests.
3. Bashkir early. It has purple round fruits, a sweet and sour taste and juicy pulp. It tolerates winters calmly, but is sometimes affected by oidium.
4. Madeleine pineapple. It has white, oblong and medium-sized berries. This is a table variety that does not cope well with pests. Often these grapes are affected by spider mites.

Of course, this is not the entire list of varieties of this plant that can be planted in Bashkiria. Let us now consider how to properly plant grapes in Bashkiria.

Pest treatment

The fight against insects usually begins after they appear. Insecticides are used. But preventive spraying is also carried out. So, with the help of Nitrofen you can destroy almost any parasites. For prevention, the bushes are sprayed with Nitrofen, diluting 200 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

The most dangerous pests for grapes are phylloxera, mealybugs and spider mites. For prevention, grapes are sprayed with Karbofos. Per 100 sq. m use 15 liters of solution. To prepare it, 60 g of the drug is dissolved in 8 liters of water. You can destroy phylloxera when it appears using the drugs Zolon, Actelik or Confidor.

Selecting a location and preparing a planting hole

How to choose the right place for planting so that growing grapes in Bashkiria brings only joy to the gardener? There are certain rules for this:

1. The place intended for the future vineyard should be illuminated by the sun most of the day.
2. It is best to use a southern slope for planting.
3. There should be no groundwater nearby, as the vineyards cannot tolerate it.
4. If you plan to plant several bushes, it is best to place them in one row, at a distance of 2 meters from each other. Their extension should be from north to south. The distance between rows should be at least a meter.

When gardeners ask the question of how to grow grapes in Bashkiria, it is worth noting that they should take the preparation of the planting pit very seriously. It should be the same as for a fruit tree. This is very important on soils such as those in Bashkiria - poor sandy and heavy clay.

Further care of seedlings and first harvest

As it grows, you can tie the vine to wooden vertical supports. For the winter, roll it into a ring and cover it with pine needles, burlap or polyethylene. Pruning should only be done in the third spring. In the second year, care consists of watering, fertilizing (once a year in the spring), and treating against pests. It is better to remove the ovaries in the second year; in the third year, some of them can be left.

With proper care, the first harvest can be harvested in 4-5 years. It will differ from the parent variety in berry size or even taste. You shouldn’t expect high yields from grapes grown from seeds either. If you are not completely satisfied with the result, the sprouts can be used as a rootstock for proven varieties. The berries can be used for jam, juice or wine.

To maximize the safety of your future grape harvest, use the drug Consento KS, which effectively fights such dangerous diseases as mildew and oidium.

The best grape varieties for Bashkiria: care, pruning

The picture of climatic conditions in Bashkiria is quite complex.
It has a continental climate, characterized by fairly warm summers and snowy, cold and long winters. Weather conditions change frequently due to cyclones coming from the temperate latitudes, which encounter invading Arctic air and winter anticyclones from Siberia. However, even in such rather difficult conditions, local winegrowers successfully grow many varieties and hybrid forms of grapes.

Working with soil

Weeding and loosening the soil in the vineyard not only prevents the appearance of shallow roots, but also helps retain soil moisture and aerate it. In the spring, you can make a depression of about 15 cm at the base of the bush. This will increase the gap between the bunch and the soil and will help retain moisture.

If the soil between the rows was not dug up and leveled in the fall, this can be done in the spring, when the soil dries out.

Important! Spring plowing will differ from autumn plowing in that at this time the layer of earth does not need to be turned over. Interest in viticulture in Bashkiria has been evident for a long time; the culture has considerable prospects in this region

High air temperatures in summer even give some advantage over regions with a milder climate

Interest in viticulture in Bashkiria has been evident for a long time; the culture has considerable prospects in this region. High air temperatures in summer even give some advantage over regions with a milder climate.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=YnlHWhM7e1w

Such a fruit and berry crop as grapes, which not every gardener would dare to grow even in the middle zone, has taken root very well, oddly enough, in Bashkiria. Despite the fact that this region is a risky farming zone with a fairly harsh climate and unfavorable soil conditions, many gardeners have achieved excellent results when growing this heat-loving crop in these parts. Moreover, grapes in Bashkiria are not small, tasteless berries, but large and very sweet bunches. To achieve excellent yields of this magnificent berry in the harsh climatic conditions of the republic, first of all you should choose a zoned variety, which is bred in accordance with the weather conditions of this inhospitable region and adapted to the Bashkir climate.

What care is needed for vineyards in Bashkiria?

When growing a crop such as grapes in Bashkiria, care, pruning, spring-summer fertilizing and sheltering the vine from too low winter temperatures are mandatory for the gardener. It is definitely worth remembering that when growing grapes in Bashkiria, the main task is the growth of two strong vegetative shoots on the seedling, which will become the basis of the future fruit and berry bush.

Only through the correct and conscientious implementation of all these procedures can you achieve a magnificent harvest, which will be no worse than in the southern regions. It’s not for nothing that they say that grapes grow beautifully in Bashkiria, as long as there is good appropriate care.

A region with risky farming requires the creation of an optimal microclimate and strict adherence to agricultural techniques for growing heat-loving crops. Caring for grapes in Bashkiria is slightly different from the southern regions, since to obtain a harvest you need to do all the manipulations on time and protect the vine from adverse environmental factors.

Suitable varieties

It is possible to grow grapes in the Southern Urals, but only specially bred frost-resistant extra-early and early varieties with a ripening period of 110 to 125 days will grow and bear fruit here.

Here are the ones that work best:

• Alyoshenkin is a table variety, high-yielding, early variety, ripens in 110-115 days. The vine tolerates frosts down to – 27°C. When grown in open ground, it needs to be covered. The bushes are vigorous, the weight of the bunches can reach 1 kg. The berries are oval, weighing about 5 g, greenish-yellow in color, harmonious in taste. The root system is weakly resistant to frost; it is recommended to grow on rootstocks. Prone to peas.
• Zilga is a frost-resistant universal variety that ripens in 102-108 days. The berries are dark blue, oval, and taste like Isabella. Tolerates temperatures down to -27°C.
• Pamyati Dombkovskaya is a technical early variety with high yields that can tolerate frosts down to – 28°C.
• In memory of Shatilov - universal, white, frost-resistant, early variety, can withstand cold temperatures down to - 30° C. The bushes are medium-sized, the flowers are bisexual, self-pollinating, the clusters weigh 0.6-1.5 kg. The berries are large, oblong, yellowish-white in color. The taste is pleasant, the sugar content is about 20%. Resistant to mildew and oidium.
• Krasa Severa is a white table grape, early ripening, and can withstand temperatures down to – 26°C. The bush is vigorous, the weight of the bunch can vary from 250 g to 900 g. The berries have a tart taste and a sugar content of 14% -17%.
• Crystal is an extremely early, technical variety. Withstands cold temperatures down to – 27°C…- 30°C. The berries are medium-sized, white or greenish-yellow, and ripen in 110-115 days. The taste is harmonious, sugar 17% -18%. The variety can withstand temperatures down to – 29°C. Resistant to mildew, oidium, gray rot.
• Cardinal is an early table variety; in the South Ural climate it is grown in greenhouses. Able to withstand frost down to – 18°C. The bush is medium-sized, the clusters are large and loose. The berries are large, oval, purple-red in color, with a bloom, and ripen in 121 days. The taste is pleasant, with a light nutmeg aroma. Unresistant to mildew, oidium, prone to peas.
• Ontario is an early white grape variety that can withstand frosts of - 27°C... - 30°C. The bushes are medium-sized with bisexual flowers. The clusters are medium-sized, cylindrical-conical in shape, and may have a wing. The berries are medium or large, greenish-white, golden. The taste is isabelle. Resistance to fungal diseases is average.
• Amur White is a universal mid-early variety; the berries ripen in 120-130 days. The vine can withstand air temperatures down to -40°C. This unpretentious variety is well suited for a beginning gardener.

The Krasa Severa variety can withstand frosts down to – 26°C

Grape varieties suitable for the Urals

Care

Planting and caring for grapes can present certain difficulties for beginners. Here it would be wise to turn to the practices of experienced winegrowers, following the advice presented below.

Trellis device

In the conditions of the Urals, for good development of grapes, a trellis is required. On it, the vines are better warmed by the sun and are more convenient to care for. The trellis can be vertical or two-plane. In the first case, vertical posts made of wood or metal, about 170 cm high, dug in on both sides of the grapes, are used for support. A wire is stretched between them, the first row of which is located at a distance of about half a meter from the surface of the earth, and all subsequent rows are 40-45 cm apart from each other.

Double-plane trellises are used for growing frost-resistant, vigorous grape varieties. They consist of two vertical crossbars connected to each other. The trellises are arranged in advance, even before the seedlings are planted. Since if you build a support after, there is a risk of damaging the root system of the grapes. If wooden beams, rather than metal pipes, are used for the structure, you need to choose hardwood.

Fertilizer

As a top dressing, humus or peat is applied under the bushes in the spring. You can also use specialized fertilizers for grapes. The first three years after planting, the grapes are not fertilized; they have enough nutrients that are released from humus and peat, as well as mineral mixtures initially placed in the planting hole.

In the fourth year, fertilizing is carried out before the beginning of the growing season, during fruit set, and before covering the vine for the winter.

Watering

Caring for grapes in the summer in the Urals consists of watering, loosening, pruning, and treating them against pests. The vineyard is watered twice a year: in May, before flowering begins, and then during berry set. After irrigation, the soil under the bushes is loosened and mulched with peat and straw. Mulch will not allow weeds to grow, will keep the soil moist, and when decomposed will provide nutrition to the grape roots.

Important! For a good harvest on young shoots, it is necessary to remove the stepsons.

Trimming and shaping

In the first year, the grapes are not pruned, but only pinched.

In subsequent years:

1. At the beginning of June, dried branches are removed.
2. In mid-summer, shoots are pinched for better growth.
3. After harvesting, two fruiting branches are formed.
4. Two shoots are left on the vine, the rest are pinched.

Thus, by autumn there should be four fruiting vines and two spare shoots at the base of the bush.

In Siberia and the Urals, grape bushes are formed using a standard-free method. Like a multi-armed fan or oblique cordon. Properly formed grapes are more winter-hardy and produce better yields.

Shelter for the winter

Cover the grapes according to the following scheme:

1. Before wintering, the bushes are pruned.
2. The vines are removed from the trellises and placed on the prepared flooring in a groove.
3. To prevent fungal diseases, you can treat with 1% Bordeaux mixture, Fitosporin.
4. A structure made of boards in the form of a hut is built over the ditch and covered with agrofibre or roofing felt.
5. A layer of sawdust, spruce branches or straw is placed on the agrofibre as insulation.
6. Cover with film or slate.

They remove the shelter at the end of April, focusing on the weather and the possibility of spring frosts. You need to open the grapes gradually so that they get used to the surrounding air.

Features of grape care in different periods

Mandatory vineyard care activities directly depend on the time of year

It is important to strictly follow the recommendations so as not to harm the plant.

What needs to be done in spring?

When spring care, it is important to pay attention to the following points

Disclosure

Spring care in shelter areas begins with opening the bushes and freeing them from winter shelters. The procedure begins after the temperature has finally reached a positive temperature and there is no threat of frost.

It is important to carry out the procedure gradually so that the shoots weakened over the winter adapt to new climatic conditions. Covering materials must be removed sequentially, giving them the opportunity to dry

As the branches dry, they are tied to the lower trellis, thus starting to form the bush.

Protection from diseases

A weakened plant during this period is especially susceptible to the influence of pathogenic bacteria or fungi

It is important to spray in a timely manner and prevent the development of diseases. You can protect the bushes with complex preparations, such as Nitrofen

To do this, dilute 200 grams of the substance in 10 liters of water.

A 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate will help protect against pests and the most common diseases, as well as protect against the development of chlorosis associated with a lack of iron in the soil. Insecticides Karbofis or Oxychom will help against small pests, parasites and mites.

Watering

In case of a wet winter with a lot of snow, spring watering may not be necessary. If the winter turns out to be dry, it is recommended to carry out 2 procedures. The first - after opening the bushes and eliminating the risk of frost. The second is a week before flowering.

Top dressing

To increase green mass after wintering, plants are fertilized with nitrogen. To form inflorescences and fruits, they are fed with phosphorus. Potassium affects the speed of ripening of berries and their taste. Copper increases resistance to cold and drought. Zinc and boron increase the quantity and quality of the crop.

By mixing organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers, high yields can be achieved.

Wreckage

At the end of spring, secondary shoots, excess buds and foliage are removed. This is done in order to direct nutrients to the strong parts of the plant and form a strong bush. Simultaneously with pruning, the vines are tied to the trellises.

How to take care in summer?

Summer care includes:

Topping

The procedure involves breaking off the tips of the shoots. Weak shoots are removed, healthy ones are shortened, leaving 5 leaves after the second bunch. Vines longer than 2.5 m are also pruned. To avoid overloading the bush, excess inflorescences and leaves are removed as it grows and develops.

Spraying

Preventive measures to protect plants from pests include treatment with fungicides and insecticides.

Watering

Water the plant gradually as needed until completely absorbed. During the dry period, the number of procedures can be increased.

Growing grapes in autumn

In the fall, the following procedures must be carried out:

Spraying

After harvesting, you can proceed to preventive spraying. To do this, you can use fungicides or Bordeaux mixture.

Important! If signs of the disease are detected, it is recommended to carefully treat the plant to prevent the spread of the disease.

Watering

In mid-autumn, each bush is watered abundantly. The procedure is carried out last time in the season to saturate the plant with moisture throughout the winter period.

What to feed in the autumn?

Watering can be combined with the application of organic fertilizers. This will become a supply of nutrients for the plant during harsh winters.

Trimming

During autumn pruning, secondary shoots and buds are removed, preserving the main ones, which will be the basis for the next fruiting.

Shelter

In the case of growing grapes in middle and northern latitudes, it is necessary to cover them well for the winter. To do this, the vine is carefully pressed to the ground and covered with agrofibre, earth, pine needles or other materials.

How to plant grapes correctly in Siberia

Due to climatic conditions that are not the most favorable for viticulture, bushes are planted according to clear rules. Whether the plant will take root or not depends on the time, place and technology of planting.

Optimal timing

In Siberia, grapes are planted in the spring from late May to early June. When planted in autumn, bushes rarely take root.

Choosing a location on the site

The landing site plays an important role. Light and loose soil is suitable for grape bushes. It is better to avoid places where groundwater is at a depth of more than 1.5 m. Grapes require a lot of light. The best option would be a site on a slight hill. Experienced winegrowers also advise placing seedlings near buildings and fences on the north and north-west sides.

Planting process

Planting pits are prepared 14–21 days before planting seedlings. The bushes are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other. The distance between the rows can be up to 3 m. In the process of preparing the pit, you should first dig a trench 0.8 m wide and 0.3 m deep. Holes with a diameter of 0.6 m and the same depth are dug in the trench, taking into account the planting pattern. Primary fertilization of the planting hole is an important stage, by skipping which the winegrower risks the persistence in the development of the bush and its viability.

Lay out the following layers at the bottom of the pit:

• ash (1 shovel);
• superphosphate (200 g);
• cut branches and stems of weeds;
• mix of sand, soil and humus in a ratio of 1:2:2.

Did you know? More than 3 thousand varieties of grapes grow in the CIS.

Landing is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. When planting seedlings from a pot, make a hole in the hole. If the bush has an open root system, place a small earthen mound at the bottom.
2. Prepare seedlings. Remove the bushes from the pots along with the earthen ball or straighten the root system if the seedling is without a container.
3. Place the seedling in the center of the hole, slightly tilting it. This determines which direction the gardener will tilt the vine before covering it for the winter. It is better to place the root collar below the soil level.
4. Fill the hole with soil and compact it.
5. Pour a bucket of water under the base of the trunk.
6. Mulch the soil.

How to choose grape seedlings when purchasing

Healthy grape seedlings will guarantee good survival and growth in the future; when going shopping, you need to take into account several golden rules that will protect you from low-quality planting material:

• You need to purchase planting material at grape fairs, exhibitions, and from winegrowers engaged in professional grape cultivation. Avoid spontaneous markets and dubious sales points, otherwise you can buy low-quality seedlings, unscrupulous sellers can sell the wrong grape variety;
• The open root system of seedlings must be moist and tightly packed in plastic film or any other material that can retain moisture inside. The roots must be protected from air;
• The more roots a seedling has, the better. The minimum length of healthy roots is 20 centimeters; the main roots must be powerful and strong. A well-formed root system will allow the seedling to quickly and easily take root;
• Ask the seller to check the quality and condition of the roots by cutting off the end of the root with pruners. The cut color will be milky or light coffee shade. When you squeeze the cut with your fingers, a small amount of moisture is released. This way you can make sure that the seedling is not dried out;
• The minimum length of a seedling from the beginning of the main root to the annual shoot is 0.2 meters. The grape trunk must be clean, without visible damage, various stains, or infections;
• One-year matured growth is checked, the thickness is equal to the diameter of a pencil in comparison, on which 4-5 buds are located. The color of the buds, the growth is a delicate brown shade. You can check the state of growth by cutting off the top of the shoot; the color of the cut will be a juicy green color, which will release moisture when pressed.

What grapes can be grown in central Russia

By nature, grapes are a heat-loving southern plant. Its advance to the north from the industrial viticulture zone is constrained by several factors:

• low winter temperatures;
• short growing season;
• lack of summer heat.

However, over the past half century, in the gardens of central Russia, great success has been achieved in the amateur cultivation of the earliest southern grape varieties, and sufficiently winter-hardy resistant varieties have been created that can survive the winter without shelter and produce stable annual yields.

Moscow region grapes on video

There are three main areas of northern viticulture:

• growing grapes in greenhouses;
• cover culture of early grape varieties in open ground;
• growing frost-resistant, uncovered varieties.

Greenhouse culture has not become particularly widespread among amateurs due to its excessive labor intensity and high cost.

Southern grape varieties can be grown in unheated greenhouses

Cover culture of early southern varieties in the gardens of the middle zone is quite possible, although troublesome.

My neighbor in the garden has been growing several varieties of grapes brought from Crimea during her youth for almost half a century. Our sites are located on top of a small hill with well-cultivated sandy soil. In general, our Middle Volga climate is very close to that of the Moscow region; we have only slightly hotter and drier summers and slightly harsher winters. Of course, some of the imported varieties disappeared over such a long period of time. Of the remainder, the most valuable are the Saba and White Chasselas Pearls. It is interesting that the isabella varieties of Crimean origin in our conditions, without shelter, freeze to the snow level, growing again from the root every spring, while our local grapes are of the same type (most likely this is Alpha, widespread in the middle zone under the erroneous name Isabella) winters well on walls and arbors, producing annual harvests without any care at all.

Grape varieties for central Russia (table)

Isabella (labrusca) grapes are complex hybrids produced using the North American wild labrusca grape. Hybrids involving wild Amur grapes, often classified in the same economic group of varieties, are also very close to them in their characteristics. Their main advantages:

• increased winter hardiness (up to -35..-40°C without any shelter);
• regular and very abundant fruiting;
• high disease resistance (in our area in the Middle Volga, labrusca grapes are not sprayed with anything at all - there is simply no need, they do not get sick in our country);
• resistance to phylloxera (this is the most terrible pest of southern vineyards).

As for the taste of the berries... Isabella varieties have a very unique taste and aroma that cannot be confused with anything else. In their fresh form they do not have many fans, but for processing (wine, compote, jam, they can be mixed with other fruits and berries) they are very good.

Variety selection

In order for grapes planted in spring to please with rapid, active development and good harvests, it is necessary to choose the variety wisely.

The first step is to decide on the ripening time - based on this parameter, grape varieties are:

• early;
• average;
• late.

The latter varieties are the sweetest and produce the largest berries. However, they are more suitable for the warm southern regions - in a cool climate, the harvest of the late variety will not have time to ripen. It is better for northern gardeners to focus on early and middle varieties when choosing.

In addition to the ripening period, it is also necessary to take into account the taste characteristics. Based on this parameter, grapes are:

• technical;
• dining room

The harvest of technical varieties is usually used for wine production, since the berries are too sour for direct consumption. The clusters of technical varieties are multiple, but small; the berries are not large.

In addition, the variety must be resistant to diseases and pests. Of the technical varieties, the following are the most resistant:

• Kishmish;
• Crystal;
• Platovsky.

The harvest of table grapes is good in any form - both fresh and canned, and can also be used for wine production. The bunches and berries grow large, beautiful, and have high commercial properties. The taste of the berries is sweet, pleasant, rich.

Experienced winegrowers recommend the following table varieties for growing in our difficult climate:

• Hope;
• Cardinal et al.

An important point when choosing a variety is the size of the bush. There are vigorous varieties, and there are also medium-growing ones. The former require a larger area and more nutrition, but are capable of producing a more abundant harvest.

These varieties include:

• Original;
• Codrianka;
• Delight.

Medium-sized varieties can also be planted in small areas, which is convenient for modest country plots. Similar varieties include:

• Donetsk pearls;
• New;
• Timur et al.

But no matter what variety you choose, the main thing is to properly prepare the plants and plant them. If the first step is correctly completed, further rich harvests will not keep you waiting.

Planting and growing

It is best to plant seedlings in the second half of June–July, when the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up to +15 ˚С. For planting, you need to choose the sunniest place on the site, where the sun does not go away all day. At the site where the grapes are planted, the soil should be loose, nutritious, moisture- and breathable.

For each bush, a feeding area of ​​at least 1 m2 is provided. Single bushes can be planted in holes measuring 1 x 1 x 1 m. If you plan to plant bushes in a row, you need to prepare a trench 1 m wide and deep. Its length is calculated by the number of bushes: at least 1 m for each plant. The best location for the trench is from north to south. At the bottom of the hole or trench it is necessary to arrange drainage: lay 20-30 cm of large stones and cobblestones. Sprinkle a layer of 10-15 cm of expanded clay or small crushed stone on them. Fill the remaining part of the hole with a mixture of sand (or vermiculite), mature humus and garden soil. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and wood ash can be added to this mixture.

The planting pit is prepared 2 months before planting the seedlings, approximately in March-April. The hole needs to be watered several times so that the soil in it settles and becomes compacted. The soil should not reach the edges by 20 cm. Next year, the hole will need to be filled to the top with soil and at the same time hill up the grapes to a height of 30 cm. Bushes growing in the trench should be hilled up in the manner of potatoes - with a comb. This technique will allow you to accumulate heat in the soil around the bushes.

For a seedling, dig a small hole in the middle of the prepared hole, water it with water and plant the grapes. The soil around the seedling is compacted. Water as the soil dries, but not very much. When the seedling begins to grow, stop watering - the grapes will have enough water that is in the soil. In total, 2-3 abundant waterings are needed during the summer.

In the first, and sometimes in the second, year, grape seedlings are not pruned. They must gain root mass and grow 1-2 vines at least a meter long. To do this, the strongest shoots are selected from the seedling, and the rest are broken off as they appear. You can leave one additional shoot until autumn - a reserve one. In autumn, the weakest vines are removed.

If only one shoot was left on the cutting, then a strong stepson should be left on it closer to the base and pinched together with the main vine. Next year this stepson will catch up with the vine in growth. One male shoot should always be left on the plant for pollination.

Processing grapes in the summer includes watering, pinching, pinching (pinching the tops of the vines), and mulching the soil. Watering should be done at the root with a large amount of water so that the soil is well saturated. Do not water grapes on top of the foliage, especially in hot weather. It’s very good to sow green manure near the bushes; the regrown, mown grass can be left right there to mulch the soil - grapes really like it. In July, work in the vineyard should be aimed at protecting plants from fungal diseases. At the beginning of the month, you should fertilize with complex fertilizer.

Grapes always form much more buds and fruit clusters than they can “feed”. If they are all allowed to ripen, the bush will quickly weaken and the berries on it will become small. And during the short Ural summer, they simply will not ripen on time. Therefore, some of the grape clusters must be removed. Usually 3-4 ovaries are left per vine. If two brushes grow side by side, remove the smaller and weaker one. Or you can allow all the clusters to pollinate and set, and only then remove weak and sparse clusters.

As the vines grow and the berries ripen, the grapes are strengthened on a support. This could be a pole with crossbars, a trellis, or a gazebo.

Factors affecting fruiting

Vegetating cuttings with exposed dried roots, planted in late spring, will suffer for a long time; the vine most likely will not have time to ripen and will not survive the winter. Even with ideal care, you should not expect fruit from such grapes in the coming years.

Purchased seedlings must be taken with the root closed

If this is an autumn planting, then it is recommended to pay attention to the condition of the vine; this summer's growth should be mature (not green), and at least 6-7 mm thick. Such a seedling, well protected from the cold, will survive the winter well and can bloom the next season. In spring, grapes are planted in several ways:

In spring, grapes are planted in several ways:

• dormant cuttings in early spring before sap flow begins;
• already awakened vegetative cuttings (seedlings) in late May - early June;
• 2-3 year old seedlings before sap flow begins.

The second method involves planting cuttings at the end of February in plastic bottles in a warm place. By the beginning of May, the cuttings will grow up to 50 cm. When planting, carefully handle the plant without disturbing the earthen coma. Such a seedling, if well cared for next year, will most likely produce its first inflorescences. In this case, you can leave one small inflorescence on the strongest shoot and try the first berries.

2-3 year old cuttings do not always take root well, but with proper care they bear fruit the next year. In the year of planting, the inflorescences must be removed so as not to weaken the plant.

The grapes are very demanding of sunlight and do not tolerate cool lowlands and the foot of the slopes. In a shaded, humid place, the grapes will quickly grow green mass; the vine will not ripen until the end of the season, will be fragile and thin, and will most likely freeze in winter. Such a vineyard may not bear fruit even in the 5-6th year. An area open on the south side, protected on the north side by buildings or trees, is suitable.

Trimming

The ripening of the vine largely depends on the amount of nutrients supplied during the growing season. Excess nitrogen stimulates large growth, but the vine “fattens”, becomes fragile and green, and flower buds form poorly.

A lack of potassium stops the development of shoots, the plant lags behind in growth, and the inflorescences fall off. The lack of organic components in the soil directly affects the taste and quality of the future harvest. On poor soils without the addition of humus and compost, grape bushes take a long time to build up their root mass and may not bear fruit for up to 5-6 years.

Preparing seedlings for planting

For planting, only healthy seedlings should be selected, which are determined according to the following criteria:

• The root cut of the seedling should be white. A brown tint indicates the unsuitability of the escape.
• A viable seedling is distinguished by dense buds that will not fall off with a light touch.
• A mature annual shoot should have a bright green cut.

Before planting grapes with cuttings, you need to prepare them as follows: the cutting is cut from below so that there is 1 centimeter left before the first bud, and about 2 centimeters above the top one. To activate growth throughout the day, seedlings are soaked in an aqueous solution with the addition of a spoonful of honey.

After soaking, the cuttings are thoroughly dried and waxed. For this you will need: a liter container, wax - 15 g, resin - 15 g, paraffin - 300 g, water - 300 g. The mixture is heated, stirring thoroughly. To wax the cuttings, their upper part is dipped into a pre-prepared mixture, and then into a container with running water. With this procedure, you need to process about 6 centimeters of grape seedlings.

Before planting in the ground, young grape seedlings are first hardened off, otherwise direct sunlight can cause significant damage to them. To do this, vegetative seedlings are kept in the shade of trees or under a canopy for 7 days, and then 10 days in the sun.

Young grape seedlings that have not undergone hardening and are planted in open soil in the spring react to changing conditions in the following way: they suspend their growth, and the growth begins to take a woody form. Although this is not critical, since by mid-June the seedlings resume their active growth and continue to develop.

Planting a lignified seedling

1. A hole 80 by 80 cm deep and wide, respectively, is prepared for the lignified seedling.
2. The bottom is covered with a nutrient layer 25 cm thick. It consists of humus mixed with fertile soil (10 buckets). After compaction, this layer is covered with mineral fertilizers: 300 grams of potash, the same amount of superphosphate per 3 liters of wood ash. All this is also mixed with soil and laid out 10 cm thick.
3. Then the next 5 cm are lined only with soil.
4. After all manipulations, a depression of about 40 cm should remain.
5. Next, they form a small mound in the center of the depression, insert a seedling into the middle, evenly distributing the roots, and fill it with fertile soil to the growth level.
6. After installing the seedling and compacting all layers, the soil is watered with water (2-3 buckets). And after partial drying, lightly loosen the top layer to a depth of ten centimeters.
7. Subsequently, the grapes are watered 2 more times with a two-week interval. After which the soil is again loosened and mulched.

In autumn there is enough rain, so watering is carried out only if there is an urgent need for it.

Planting vegetative seedlings

A hole in the soil is prepared in the same way as for a woody seedling. The only difference is in its depth: on chernozem and clay soil - 25 cm, and on sandy soil - 20 cm. All layers are compacted and watered with water (2-4 buckets) at weekly intervals.

When the soil shrinks, you need to make a 55 cm deepening in clay or chernozem, 65 cm deep in sand. The hardened seedling along with the soil is removed from the container and placed in the prepared planting hole.

Then they are covered with fertile soil, compacted and watered with a bucket of water. Then a wooden peg is installed next to the sprout to support the seedling.

If the seedling has not undergone acclimatization, it is recommended to shade it with a protective screen. For this purpose, sheets of plywood or tree branches are suitable, which need to be placed on the south side of the planting for 10 days.

Watering

As practice shows, the yield of irrigated areas is much higher compared to non-irrigated plantings. The first spring watering plays a special role here. This is a charge of moisture for the entire upcoming summer period. It is advisable to carry out this watering before buds open and active sap flow.

Article on the topic: The structure of inflorescences and flowers - Features of the structure of a grape plant

Advice! The first spring watering is recommended to be done with cold water. Warm water can speed up the growing season of a plant, and late frosts are by no means uncommon in the republic.

The amount of spring watering will depend on soil moisture. Excessive watering will be accompanied by the displacement of air from the soil, which can lead to rotting of the root system. Even if you have a well-functioning drainage system, you should not get too carried away with watering, since excess water washes out previously applied mineral and organic fertilizers from the soil.

Note! Each watering can be successfully used as a convenient way to saturate the soil with mineral fertilizers. At the very first spring watering, it is best to fertilize the soil with nitrogen.

What should the seedling be like?

There are two types of seedlings: vegetative and lignified, and before choosing, you should familiarize yourself with the main characteristics and features of each type:

By vegetative we mean cuttings that were planted in early spring. It is often called green because by the next green period, when planting should take place, the cutting usually already has several green leaves. A one-year-old grape bush is called woody seedlings. In the fall it is dug up, after which it is stored in a cool place and always in damp sand.

To preserve it, it is important that the humidity percentage in the room does not fall below 85 at all times, because under other conditions mold and other microbial organisms can develop

Why are grapes planted in spring in Bashkiria?

The best time to plant this capricious berry crop, unadapted to the harsh northern conditions, is spring, May. After all, if this work is carried out in the fall, as is done in many more southern regions, the not completely rooted seedlings, having gone into winter, can easily freeze in the harsh northern conditions. Therefore, the best option is to plant grapes in Bashkiria in the spring.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Among the mandatory spring care procedures, preventive spraying is very important in order to protect the vineyard from attacks by harmful insects and the spread of pathogens.

It is recommended to carry out 5 treatments:

1. The first spraying is carried out immediately after the cover is removed. They resort to using iron or copper sulfate. Spraying is carried out on the bare vine.
2. The second treatment is planned in the first days of May, when the fifth leaf appears on the vine. At this time, the drug “Horus” is used, which prevents infection with mildew and oidium. Per 100 m² you will need 5–10 g of product.
3. The third spraying is carried out “on the fifth leaf” using anti-mite preparations “Sunmite” and “Plantafol”. It is scheduled for the morning. The dosage is calculated in accordance with the instructions that come with the drugs.
4. 3–5 days before the vineyard begins to bloom en masse, it is sprayed for the fourth time with the fungicide against fungal diseases “Ridomil-Gold”, the insecticide against pests “Decis”, and the boron-containing preparation that increases productivity and strengthens the immune system “Vuksal-combi B” .
5. After the vines have bloomed, a fifth, repeated treatment with “Vuksal-combi B” is carried out, and the “Maxicrop-Ovary” product is also added.

Find out more about how to spray grapes in spring to prevent pests and diseases.

Trimming and breaking off

In Bashkortostan it is best to do it in the spring. At this time, it is easy to distinguish living sprouts from dead ones. Young plants are also pruned at this time. Pruning is done when the air temperature reaches +3 degrees, before sap flow begins, otherwise the cut areas will be delayed for a long time and the vine will be in a depressed state for a long time.

Excess shoots begin to break off immediately after the buds open. The buds are removed from the perennial part of the grapevine, as well as the twins and tees formed on the fruit shoots. By the end of spring, in May, all excess above-ground growth coming from the roots is removed.

How to care for grapes

After planting a plant and its successful rooting, it is the winegrower’s duty to take care of its care. Watering, fertilizing, pruning and other procedures affect the quality and quantity of the crop.

Important! During flowering, it is highly not recommended to moisten the soil.

Watering

Grape bushes are watered by irrigating the soil near the trunk. You can also use above-ground and underground drip irrigation systems or trench irrigation. On average, 1 bush requires 30–50 liters of water, but the exact amount is determined depending on the variety.

Water the plant 4 times per growing season:

• after spring awakening;
• 14 days before flowering;
• 14 days after flowering;
• when preparing winter shelter.

Top dressing

The exact doses, proportions and periods of application of drugs differ depending on the variety. According to general recommendations, liquid fertilizers are applied under the bush along with watering.

During the period of active growth, 2 feedings are carried out:

• in the first half of the growing season - adding organic products, for example, “Humate”;
• in the second half of the growing season - fertilizing with mineral preparations mainly based on potassium and phosphorus.

Find out more about how to properly feed grapes in the fall.

Soil care

Weeds are removed as they appear, but this is a recommended measure. Mandatory procedures include loosening the soil 2–3 days after moistening the soil

Siberian winegrowers pay special attention to mulching. Mulch is laid in the spring after the bush awakens, when the soil has warmed up well.

Suitable materials are straw, hay, grass or sawdust. The benefit of mulching is to maintain soil looseness and retain moisture. When the mulch rots, it turns into natural fertilizer, which also benefits the plant.

Support

To support the vines, gardeners install support structures. Trellis are considered the best option in Siberian conditions. For the construction, pillars made of metal or wood are driven into the ground. Wires are pulled horizontally on them and tied at equal distances from each other. Trellis are often modernized: canopies are added, the ends are covered with cellophane and aluminum screens are installed to reflect light. Such designs contribute to heat conservation on cold days.

You will be interested to know how to properly care for grapes in summer and autumn.

Tying up shoots

The shoots are tied to trellises so that the vines do not grow in different directions and do not block the access of light to other stems. Depending on the grape variety, the formation pattern of the bush and trellis, they are fixed horizontally, vertically, in a ring or in an arc. According to Siberian agrotechnical standards, gartering should be done no earlier than the end of spring frosts. In summer, tying is carried out with minimal frequency only as needed.

Trimming

Pruning of grapes is carried out according to the recommendations for growing individual varieties. However, there are general rules for forming a bush. So, in Siberia, pruning is carried out 2 times during the growing season. From the end of summer until the end of September, when the shoots are still green and the fruits have already been harvested, weak, damaged and dry vines should be removed. Closer to the winter shelter, a second pruning is carried out. Experienced Siberian winegrowers advise cutting the vine to 5-6 buds, without being afraid to leave long shoots for the winter. Otherwise, the formation of the bush is individual and depends on the grape variety.

Important! Spring pruning in Siberia is fraught with poor healing of the cuts due to active sap flow, so you should not resort to it.

Sheltering grapes for the winter

In Siberian winters, even frost-resistant varieties need shelter. The procedure should be carried out after the final harvest before the first frost. The exact timing is determined depending on the grape. Most varieties grown in Siberia are early or mid-early, so the vines can be covered as early as October. You can remove the shelter in June, when there is no threat of frost.

The procedure for covering the grapes is as follows:

1. Cover the soil with polyethylene or cellophane.
2. Bend and lay the vines on it.
3. Install iron arches over the bent shoots.
4. Stretch cellophane film over them.
5. Sprinkle the edges of the film with soil.

Viticulture in Siberia is developing successfully. Having studied all the basics of caring for bushes in the north, Siberian gardeners successfully plant vineyards and are content with a rich harvest.

Features of agricultural technology

Vineyards in Bashkortostan require careful care so that the grapes have time to ripen. Agricultural technology for growing crops in harsh farming zones differs from zones with a favorable climate. It is necessary to carry out all manipulations at a certain time, and do not neglect the recommendations of the winegrowers.

How to care for grapes in Bashkiria:

• water;
• loosen and mulch the soil;
• feed;
• trim;
• protect from pests and diseases;
• prepare for winter.

Watering

Immediately after planting, it is necessary to moisten the soil 2 more times with an interval of 2 weeks. The grapes tolerate drought well, but only after they have formed a branched root system.

In spring it is recommended to use warm water. Moisture-recharging irrigation is necessary not only in the fall, but also at the beginning of the active growing season.

In summer, approach the procedure with caution, since carrying it out before or during flowering will provoke a sudden fall of peduncles, which will negatively affect the yield. If watered shortly before harvest, the grapes may crack or not fully ripen. For these reasons, you should focus on the condition of the bush and not water unnecessarily.

Feeding

Additional nutrition is introduced in the spring and summer. The first procedure should be done before opening the bushes after wintering. Dissolve 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 5 g of potassium salt in 10 liters of water. The resulting mixture is intended for one plant. You can water the grapes with the same composition 2 weeks before flowering. Before ripening, fertilize with superphosphate and potassium mixture; nitrogen cannot be added . After harvesting, feed with potassium to increase winter hardiness of grapes.

Pruning bushes of different ages

The procedure is necessary for sanitary purposes, but the main role is the formation of the bush. Correctly and timely agrotechnical operations will help to obtain a strong and healthy plant with high productivity.

When forming and pruning bushes, you must consider:

• timing of the operation;
• plant age;
• weather;
• technology.

Timing of the procedure

In spring, pruning is carried out before sap flow begins. Otherwise, it is better to postpone it so as not to depress the plant. In the summer, stepsons should be cut off, starting in June, taking into account the recommendations of the lunar calendar. In mid-August, it is necessary to stop the growth of the grape bush in order to direct energy to ripening the berries and accumulating nutrients before wintering. Prune in autumn after harvesting.

How to choose a variety for growing in Bashkiria

To obtain a high and high-quality harvest, it is necessary to select a grape variety with certain characteristics. The region is characterized by long, cold winters. For this reason, it is necessary to choose varieties with a short growing season, early ripening, and also capable of not freezing during prolonged exposure to frost. The culture must be adapted to the variable climate of the republic and be able to withstand adverse factors well.

The best grape varieties for Bashkiria include:

• Alexander;
• Bashkir early;
• Madeleine pineapple;
• Anniversary;
• Basil;
• Squeen's Dream;
• White miracle;
• Bashkir emerald.

Extra-early, early and mid-early varieties

The Jubilee grape is the result of crossing the varieties Madeleine Angevin and Malingre early. Refers to varieties of universal use and early ripening. Increased resistance to diseases and pests, high yield. The species is winter-hardy, but requires shelter in the cold season. The tassels are medium-sized, conical, weighing 150-250 g. Berries weighing 2.2 g, greenish in color, with a nutmeg smell. From 1 hectare you can collect about 100 centners, from 1 bush - 3.5 kg.

Madeleine pineapple is an early ripening grape variety for table use with high yield. The brush is medium, conical or slightly cylindrical, quite dense. The berries are small, oval, with a whitish skin and juicy pulp. The taste is pleasant and harmonious.

The Bashkir emerald grape variety ripens in 5 months and is a table variety with a specific taste. The brushes weigh 120 g and have a loose structure. The berries are round, greenish in color, with fleshy pulp and a transparent waxy coating. It is resistant to diseases and pests, but when growing, regular treatments against mildew and oidium are recommended.

Uncovered varieties

of the Bashkir early grape are the need for artificial pollination, resistance to diseases and pests, and the bush blooms early. Productivity 140-190 c/ha. The brushes are small, weighing on average 28 g, with a loose structure. The berries are small, dark purple in color, covered with thick skin. The pulp is juicy and tastes sweet and sour. The variety is winter-hardy and tolerates low temperatures well.

Alexander is a table grape variety with a growing season of 128-165 days. The brushes are medium-sized, weighing 135 g, branched, cylindrical in shape. The grapes are round, dark pink in color with juicy fleshy pulp and colorless juice. Productivity depends on growing conditions and is 124-163 c/ha.

Climatic features of the region

In this area there is a frequent change between the air of temperate and subtropical latitudes and the Arctic. The climate of Bashkortostan is continental, summers are quite warm or hot, winters are long and cold. The warmest month is July; in mountain forest areas the average ambient temperature is +16-18 °C, in the south +19-20 °C, sometimes the maximum reaches +38-40 °C. It is coldest from December to February; thaws are rare during this period.

The average temperature in Bashkiria in winter is –14-16°C, the minimum possible value is –42°C. These indicators should be taken into account when planting and caring for grapes, since the crop may die from frost or not have time to ripen.

The weather is especially unstable in the spring, when sudden changes in warming occur before the return of cold weather. Precipitation is distributed unevenly over the territory, with an average of 300-700 mm falling per year; global warming provokes the occurrence of tornadoes and the acceleration of processes in the atmosphere. The diversity of the climate in the republic is influenced by the relief; the mountains create a big difference on the western and eastern slopes. Grapes in Bashkiria must be cultivated taking into account the characteristics of a particular region.