Diseases and pests of chrysanthemums: how to recognize and what methods to fight?

Diseases and pests of chrysanthemums: causes, symptoms, methods of control

Chrysanthemums are popular garden and indoor perennials, actively cultivated and very common in central Russia. Among their features are the absence of the need for replanting, long-lasting and abundant flowering. They easily grow in one place for years, but this property often leads to the appearance of insects on the branches and the development of diseases, for which novice gardeners are completely unprepared.
Why do the leaves curl and turn yellow? How to get rid of white rust on home chrysanthemum? Is it possible to cope with a pest attack in the garden in one go and how to cure the plant? All these questions require the most detailed consideration, because not only the chrysanthemum itself is under threat, but also its neighbors in the garden or home greenhouse.

Growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse

Some gardeners, especially those who sell flowers, grow them in a greenhouse.
The advantage of this method is that under certain conditions the plant can bloom all year round. Diseases and pests of chrysanthemums are not so active in the greenhouse. So, by following agricultural practices and carrying out preventive treatments, you can enjoy bright flowering for many months.

Adding an article to a new collection

Amateur flower growers are faced with the fact that all the leaves on chrysanthemums turn black from the bottom to the buds, although the plants bloom well. What is this disease and how to get rid of it?

In order to stop the spread of the disease in time and save chrysanthemums, it is important to correctly determine the causes of blackening of the leaves. As a rule, black spots on the leaves signal one of the fungal diseases that we will discuss in this article.

It is important to understand that all fungal infections accumulate in the soil, in the roots, on fallen leaves, if the crop is grown for a long time in one place. The harmfulness of the disease also increases in dense plantings, with unbalanced mineral nutrition (excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers), in case of sharp temperature fluctuations, overdrying of plants or waterlogging

The harmfulness of the disease also increases in dense plantings, with unbalanced mineral nutrition (excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers), in case of sharp temperature fluctuations, overdrying of plants or waterlogging.

Causes

There can be many reasons for the development of chrysanthemum diseases - from the appearance of insect pests (such as thrips or aphids) on the site to the spread of fungal diseases. Often infection occurs from neighboring plants, which is how powdery mildew spreads. Frequent sources of problems include improper care, which helps create favorable conditions for the appearance of root rot. What can lead to plant diseases?

Among the mistakes made by inexperienced gardeners are:

• excessive soil moisture;
• stagnation of water at the roots due to poor drainage;
• too cold air;
• lack or excess of fertilizers;
• fungal infection of planting material;
• adding fresh manure.

In addition to problems associated with improper agricultural practices, chrysanthemums often suffer from infections that become more active in favorable weather conditions. If aphids appear on the site, it is worth examining the neighboring plants. It especially often affects greenhouse and greenhouse chrysanthemums.

How to get rid of house aphids using chemicals

This insect has been annoying humans for a long time. Therefore, today many folk methods of struggle have been invented. In addition, chemical disinfestation agents have been developed.

To achieve a long-term effect, it is necessary to use chemicals. It is worth considering that those products intended for home use have a weaker concentration and are therefore harmless to the environment. Among such drugs are Knimix, Fitoverma, Aktara and others. Most products are based on fatty acids and oils of plant origin.

The disinfestation procedure is not as simple as it seems at first glance. The fact is that insects have the ability to develop immunity. That is, when buying a product, a person has no guarantee of a positive result. You may have to try a number of drugs before you see an effect. If it is noticed that the purchased product does not work on parasites, it should be replaced immediately.

The following situation also happens: the chemicals gave results, and the population began to decrease, but after a short time the effect began to disappear. This suggests that during this period the individuals were able to develop lasting immunity. In this case, you should also switch to another remedy.

Absolutely all plants in the house should be treated, not just affected ones.

To avoid wasting money and time, we recommend consulting with a specialist about which product is best to choose in your situation.

Symptoms

What should you pay attention to, how to diagnose the appearance of diseases and pests? It is worth regularly inspecting the plant and not neglecting its care. Symptoms of parasitic insects on chrysanthemums most often look like this.

1. With thrips, dots or spots appear on the leaves, then they turn yellow, discolored, wither, dry out and fall off. The insect itself is small, with an elongated body, young individuals are yellow-beige, adults have glossy black backs, and are winged. You can look for them on the back of the leaves.
2. With leaf nematode, the leaves become covered with yellow-brown spots that gradually grow over the entire surface. The foliage first dies and curls at the bottom of the stem, then the upper shoots die. Infected bushes are destroyed.
3. With aphids, symptoms can be different , depending on the type of pest itself. Most often, plant inflorescences are affected by the brown subtype, which leaves traces of its vital activity inside. The pests look like small dark brown or black beetles. The greenhouse aphid has a pink or green color, is located in colonies on the stem or in the lower part of the leaf, sucks the juices, leading to withering and death of the flower.
4. When infected with spider mites, traces of cobwebs can be seen on the reverse side of the leaves, the leaves of the plant dry out, the shoots wither and turn yellow. In hot weather, the parasite is especially active.
5. When a leafhopper or slobbering pennice appears on the plant, foamy traces of the insect's activity appear on the plant. It feeds exclusively on flower juice.
6. When meadow bugs attack, the buds disappear, they are deformed, like the shoots, and the development of the chrysanthemum is disrupted.

White spotting on vegetables

Among vegetable crops, septoria of tomatoes is most often manifested, but other representatives of the nightshade family are also susceptible to infection:

• potato;
• tomatoes;
• Bell pepper;
• eggplants.

The leaf plates of the lower tier are damaged, on which dirty white spots appear with a brown stripe along the edges. The infection moves upward, affecting shoots, leaves, flowers and tomatoes. Without taking timely measures, you can lose up to 50-60% of the harvest.

On a note! In rainy and windy weather, the risk of infection of healthy plants increases, since fungal spores are carried with drops of moisture and through the air.

The risk group is open ground tomatoes; in greenhouse tomatoes, septoria blight occurs less frequently.

Plant diseases

Infectious lesions manifest themselves with different symptoms. Most often, buds disappear, growth stops, foliage withers, roots rot and die, and spots atypical for their color appear on the shoots.

The following fungal infections are considered the most common.

1. White rust. With this disease, the leaves become covered with round yellow spots with a diameter of no more than 5 mm. A whitish coating forms on the back of the leaves. When the disease spreads, the damage also affects the petals of the flower.
2. Powdery mildew. An infectious disease in which a coating similar to spilled flour forms on the entire surface of the chrysanthemum bush. Plants that do not receive enough potassium fertilizer are at risk.
3. Gray rot. It looks like mold dusting the leaves. Spots with a watery structure cover all shoots of the plant in its above-ground part. With dense plantings, spread occurs very quickly. Affected plants are destroyed.
4. Fusarium. With this disease, the leaves of the plant curl, rot forms on the stem, and the root dries out.
5. Septoria. It is characterized by damage to leaves, on the surface of which fungal spores leave yellow-brown spots. The disease develops on the lower shoots and may be associated with thickening of plantings and poor harvesting of fallen leaves.
6. Rust. With this disease, a rusty coating forms on the surface of the leaves, quickly spreading throughout the entire bush. On the reverse side, the shoots are covered with round, dark brown heaps. The problem mainly occurs with greenhouse and greenhouse plants, and home chrysanthemums in pots.

Rare but dangerous diseases for chrysanthemums include bacterial root canker. When it appears, deforming growths form on the stems, and they also affect the root system. All infected bushes are subject to mandatory destruction.

Chrysanthemum is quite resistant to viral diseases, but it may also show signs of mosaic, white spotting or dwarfism. There are also non-infectious problems. For example, brittleness and cracking of stems are associated with excessive watering .

When moisture stagnates at the root, it also begins to rot, the shoots of the plant wither, lose their brightness of color, and stop growing and blooming. When red veins appear on the leaves, you can understand that the flower has suffered from frost, so it needs shelter.

Non-communicable and infectious diseases

Non-infectious diseases develop if the conditions for growing flowers do not meet the standards, if the diet and watering regime, soil, and air temperature are not suitable for them. In this case, the flowers will not need treatment, you just need to fully comply with the growing technology.

*Non-infectious diseases affect individual specimens or all flowers at once, but in any case they are not transmitted to healthy plants. Their danger lies in the fact that they inhibit the growth and development of chrysanthemums, weaken their immunity and increase the risk of infectious diseases - viral, fungal, bacterial.

Thus, on heavy, floating soil that does not have a drainage system, chrysanthemums may experience so-called “root suffocation,” during which their oxygen supply deteriorates and they are unable to absorb nutrients from the soil to provide plants with them. As a result, the flowers begin to ache, the leaves turn yellow, the roots rot, and the plant dies.

Excess moisture disrupts the balance between absorption by the roots and evaporation by the above-ground part of the plant. It is not able to get rid of excess moisture and a transverse crack appears on the flowering stem, due to which the stem along with the bud breaks. Sometimes the stem remains intact, but the inflorescence is deformed. Lack of moisture is also harmful to chrysanthemums. They become lethargic, leaves turn yellow, flower petals fall off.

Low temperatures during flowering cause yellowing or redness of leaves along the central and longitudinal veins.

Non-infectious diseases of chrysanthemums also arise from excess or deficiency of minerals. A plant that is constantly on a “starvation diet” weakens and cannot resist pathogenic organisms.

The addition of fresh manure also harms chrysanthemums; it burns young roots, and they become a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi, which also causes the death of the flower.

Infectious diseases of chrysanthemums, just like infections of people, are transmitted from sick individuals to healthy ones. In a flower affected by an infectious disease, negative physiological changes occur, which are reflected in their appearance. Their photosynthesis and water absorption decrease, and metabolic processes slow down. Externally, this is manifested by wilting, stunted growth, rotting of roots, death of shoots, leaves and buds, powdery coating on leaves, and malignant neoplasms. What infectious diseases are chrysanthemums susceptible to?

White rust chrysanthemums

The first signs of the disease are round yellow spots on the leaves 5 mm in size. First, spots appear on young leaves, gradually they become larger and change color to light brown. At the same time, round “pockmarks” appear on the underside - sporangia containing telytospores. It is noteworthy that leaves affected by the disease do not fall off.

White rust of chrysanthemums.

Teleitospores germinate and form spores of a new type - basidospores, which are carried by the wind. In conditions of high humidity, it easily germinates on healthy leaves and infects the flower, as a result - most of the plants are affected by the disease and lose their marketable appearance. For this reason, chrysanthemum white rust is recognized as a quarantine pathogen.

The fight against the disease involves a whole range of measures. Diseased flowers are removed and sprayed with fungicides. Which ones exactly – you should ask the experts. The fact is that the fungus that causes white rust has already developed immunity to some fungicides, so it is quite difficult to fight the pathogen. Plants can be treated with myclobutanil, azoxystrobin, difenoconazole, kresoxim-methyl or tebuconazole.

Gray rot of chrysanthemums

Gray rot of chrysanthemums - develops in cold and damp weather, during prolonged rains, or when transporting cut flowers. Brown watery spots appear on the petals. Then the spots grow, and the inflorescence turns into a rotting mass. Gray rot affects both adult plants and cuttings during rooting.

Gray rot.

Gray rot develops on weak plants, in unfavorable growing conditions - with strong density, poor ventilation, high air and soil humidity, increased soil acidity and excess nitrogen fertilizers.

To combat gray mold, it is first necessary to optimize growing conditions and bring them to normal. Then remove and burn the affected plants, treat healthy ones with fungicides. To prevent the disease, tools, boxes and racks are disinfected, and the room is ventilated.

Septoria

Septoria, or leaf spot. This disease of chrysanthemums is manifested by the appearance of round brown spots on the lower leaves. Leaves affected by septoria turn yellow, causing the plant to weaken, and the inflorescences do not have the opportunity to fully develop.

Septoria.

The spots that first appear on the lower leaves gradually appear on the upper ones. At the same time, pycnidia of the fungus are formed in the spots, which are almost invisible to the naked eye.

The disease develops in a poorly ventilated greenhouse, with very dense plantings. The pathogens continue to live on fallen leaves.

To prevent the occurrence and spread of gray rot, you need to remove and burn damaged leaves, thin out the plantings and reduce the dose of nitrogen fertilizers. At the first signs of rot, plants are sprayed with copper oxychloride, copper-soap liquid or Bordeaux mixture.

To prepare the liquid, dissolve 10 grams of copper sulfate in 0.5 liters of hot water, and separately dissolve 100 grams of liquid potassium soap in 10 liters of warm water. Then mix the two solutions and use them to process flowers. The solution is prepared immediately before use. Spraying chrysanthemums should be carried out so that the solution gets on the leaves on both sides.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew - this disease affects the flower completely. A white coating caused by spores forms on it. The tissues under the coating dry out, which leads to the death of the plant. Powdery mildew is a consequence of a lack of calcium in the soil, excess nitrogen fertilizers, extreme heat and heavy dew. The pathogens continue to live on plant remains, so after cutting, the roots must be removed and burned.

Powdery mildew.

Treatment of chrysanthemums for powdery mildew consists of spraying with a soap solution with soda ash. The solution is prepared at the rate of 10 liters of water per 40 grams of soap and 40 grams of soda.

In addition, for spraying you can prepare a copper-soap liquid from 200 grams of green soap, 10 liters of water and 20 grams of copper sulfate. Chrysanthemums are processed at temperatures above +20 degrees.

As a preventative measure, you should loosen the soil more often, ventilate the greenhouse, remove old leaves and roots after cutting, and thin out the plantings.

Fighting methods

What treatment is recommended for different diseases of chrysanthemums? There are general rules regarding certain groups of diseases. In case of fungal infections, the first step is to remove all affected parts of the plants. They must be destroyed by burning. They begin to fight the disease with fungicides if the disease spreads rapidly. Regulating its acidity to 7 pH helps to get rid of fusarium in the soil.

Among the most popular compositions for combating fungal infections are:

• 1% solution of colloidal sulfur;
• Bordeaux mixture;
• copper-containing preparations;
• "Fundazol".

At home, gardeners most often encounter mosaic - a viral disease that causes dwarfism, shredding of flowers, and yellowing of foliage. You can get rid of it by removing already affected areas, replanting the plant and ridding it of weeds. If possible, plants affected by mosaic are destroyed or discarded without taking cuttings from them for propagation.

If powdery mildew appears on the plants - a white coating, similar to powder, you should not hesitate. Usually the disease manifests itself against the background of a lack of nitrogen-potassium fertilizers in the soil. First, treatment is performed using a soap-based soda ash solution. For 10 liters of water take 40 g of each substance.

If this does not help, use a solution of copper sulfate.

With insects

When affected by nematodes - roundworms that destroy plants, the main sources of danger become soil, humus, and fallen leaves. Recommended measures to save the plant involve spring mulching. A solution of insecticidal soap or the drug “Heterophos” sometimes helps to revive the leaves. You need to spray the entire bush, trying to treat it as efficiently as possible. If this measure does not help, the plant along with the earthen clod is dug up and destroyed.

Proper care of chrysanthemums

Only a purchased pot with a young plant should not be placed on the south side. Chrysanthemums do not like extreme heat, nor do they like direct sunlight. The bright sun will cause serious burns to the buds. After purchasing a flower on the same day, it should be transplanted into a new container, ensuring a high-quality drainage system. In order for the flower to bloom profusely and remain lush, the tops are pinched. Such manipulations are carried out before the formation of buds. Otherwise, flowering may not be seen. Crooked shoots are removed. This is done to form the correct shape of the young plant. When you remove small branches, the rest will grow larger.

For beautiful color and lush flowering, you should use fertilizers. Fertilizers are applied at the time of plant transplantation. A crystallon-based solution works best. A composition has been developed for indoor varieties of chrysanthemums. Promotes abundant flowering and accelerates the development of the root system.

Proper watering

Bushes need a moist environment. The possibility of the soil drying out should be excluded. To do this, frequent and not abundant watering is carried out. Twice a week will be enough. Pots should not be flooded, as fungal infections and diseases may form. Watering should not be carried out after sunset. Morning spraying will not harm the plant.

Transfer

Provided that the bush is not 5 years old, replanting is carried out every year. If the plant is older, then manipulations are carried out every 2 years. The procedures are as follows:

1. A drainage system is placed at the bottom of the selected container, which is covered with a layer of soil mixture;
2. The bush is removed from the previous pot (transfer), old lumps of earth are removed, after which the plant is placed in the prepared pot;
3. The soil is applied in layers, each of which is compacted slightly. The soil will not reach 1 cm to the rim of the pot. Abundant watering is carried out.

Selecting a soil mixture

It is allowed to use purchased soil, but the type chosen must be suitable for flowering crops. Experienced gardeners prepare the composition themselves, at home. To do this you will need 2/5 turf soil, 1/5 coarse sand, 1/5 humus and 1/5 leaf soil. Before use, the purchased mixture is calcined in the oven, poured with boiling water and dried to its previous state. Chrysanthemums respond well to chicken droppings, but high acidity levels should be avoided.

Pot size

A new pot is selected a year after flowering ends. Preference should be given to ceramic or clay structures. Unlike the previous container, the new pot should be several centimeters higher. The root system of chrysanthemums is superficial, which makes it impossible to use narrow and high pots. Low pots should not be used, as the drainage system will not fit.

Preventive measures

In order to prevent the development of diseases and pest attacks on home or garden chrysanthemums, it is enough to follow a number of simple rules.

1. Carefully weed and loosen the soil. This will avoid stagnation of root moisture and provide good growing conditions.
2. Avoid applying fresh manure. It can cause burns to the roots and severely harm the plant.
3. Water only with moderately warm water; it is better if it is at room temperature.
4. Regularly apply potassium and phosphorus based fertilizers. Fertilizing should be done in liquid form every 10 days. Fertilizers are not applied during the flowering period.
5. Maintain distance when planting when it comes to growing chrysanthemums in the garden. There is no need to thicken them, otherwise the risks of developing diseases will be significantly increased.
6. Carry out preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture 10 days after planting. Before sending them to the ground, the cuttings must be treated with a solution of Fundazol to prevent fungal infections.
7. Indoor chrysanthemums up to 3 years old need to be replanted annually. At an older age - once every 2 years.

Be sure to thoroughly clean your garden in spring and fall. It is in the fallen leaves that pests live that can cause serious damage to plantings in the spring. Under the chrysanthemums themselves, you also need to remove the fallen parts of the plant.

For information on how to grow and treat chrysanthemum, see below.

Varieties for self-cultivation

In spring, potted chrysanthemums begin to be prepared for flowering in early March. There are several ways to do this.

1. Replant the flower in new soil. Prepare the soil mixture. The substrate can be made by mixing several types of soil. Take soil from your garden and add sand, organic fertilizer and sod. Choose a large pot each time. Adult plants are replanted every 2 years.
2. Allow the plant to warm up. In good weather, chrysanthemums are placed on the windowsill. Regular watering and fertilization will ensure proper care and growth of flowers.
3. Planting chrysanthemums in the garden. With the arrival of warmer weather, flowers that are 2-3 years old can be safely planted in open ground. During the summer months, the seedlings will grow, and in the fall your garden will be decorated with amazingly beautiful bushes.

One of the most common problems faced by people planning to grow indoor chrysanthemums is disruption of the plant's flowering. In autumn, a healthy flower should bloom into beautiful buds.

Check the lighting of the flowers. Remember that the most suitable daylight hours for them is 9-10 hours. If your chrysanthemums spend less time in the light, this may affect the formation of inflorescences. Don't forget about applying mineral fertilizers. For active formation of buds, use potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Check whether you are pruning the plant correctly.

Caring for chrysanthemums in a pot at home begins with choosing a place to install the home beauty. Like any houseplant, it is sensitive to light and temperature. On southern windows, indoor chrysanthemum will suffer from the heat. Do not forget that direct sunlight causes them to bloom too quickly. In the north, on the contrary, it may not bloom at all.

The ideal option would be a location in the east or west of the room. If there are no windows facing west or east in the room, then it is better to place chrysanthemums in pots on a well-ventilated balcony.

Indoor chrysanthemum usually blooms in autumn. This is due to the fact that flowering occurs during short daylight hours. However, the same period is observed not only in autumn, but also in spring. Therefore, indoor chrysanthemums can bloom in spring. To do this, you can try placing the plant on the balcony in early spring.

Speaking about temperature, we can say that in summer the optimal temperature will be 22 °C. For the autumn period this value is 11 °C, and for the winter it is 5–8 °C. Temperatures shown are average. Indoor chrysanthemum can tolerate short-term drops in temperature down to -3 °C. It will also survive the summer heat well if it is provided with ventilation, darkening and timely watering.

Proper watering

Indoor chrysanthemum requires good watering. However, watering chrysanthemums should not be turned into a global flood. Using a pot tray and adding water is also not recommended. A chrysanthemum in a pot should be treated in the same way as a garden plant that requires high humidity. This humidity can be created through regular spraying. You can also place containers of water or humidifiers with the flowers.

If the air humidity is high enough, additional spraying can be eliminated.

In order for a plant to grow well at home, it is necessary to provide it with

. She does not tolerate heat or exposure to direct sunlight. The best conditions are cool air and short daylight hours. In order for the chrysanthemum to bloom as long as possible, the optimal temperature for this should be 15 degrees, and the maximum temperature for its growth is within 18 degrees.

Its increase causes the plant's leaves to turn yellow and flower buds to dry out. This is especially true for recently purchased copies. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly care for the flower.

Indoor chrysanthemum, which is not too difficult to care for, prefers high air humidity. If the earthen ball dries out, this can lead to drying out of the root system. To ensure constant humidity in the room, it is recommended to spray the plant as often as possible. A home flower must be watered abundantly, but in such a way that there is no stagnation of moisture in the pot. During active growth, you should water it 2-3 times a week to keep the soil constantly moist.

Top dressing

During the growing season, adult plants should be fed every 10 days with liquid organic matter. If the flower grows in poor soil, then fertilizing is carried out every four days with a solution of mullein in a ratio of 1:10. This must be done before the plant begins to bloom. To prevent an unpleasant odor from feeding in the apartment, the pot should be taken out to the balcony for one or two days in a shaded place.

Transfer

An indoor chrysanthemum growing at home must be replanted. Young plants undergo this procedure every year, adults - every other year. This flower does not grow well in acidic soil, so it is recommended to plant it in garden soil, in which

Transplantation is carried out by transferring an earthen clod into a larger container. To make flowering more abundant, a small amount of bird droppings is added to the soil. For preventative purposes, the soil is disinfected by pouring boiling water over it. Once it dries, the flower can be replanted.

Many gardeners mistakenly consider chrysanthemum growing at home to be an annual plant, and throw it away after flowering. But this is a big mistake, since the plant can be preserved and subsequently propagated.

This is done in three ways:

• cuttings;
• dividing the bush;
• using seeds.

The first two methods are the simplest and most successful. Planting this flower is a fairly simple process. Many gardeners plant several cuttings in one pot, resulting in abundant flowering.

It is recommended to trim the flower every year. This procedure is carried out after it has faded. In winter, during the dormant period, it is placed in a cool place, for example, in a cellar. In spring, the chrysanthemum begins to sprout young shoots, so it should be replanted in new soil. For adult plants, this procedure is not considered mandatory. Cuttings are collected for planting in the spring, as soon as the flower gets stronger.

After flowering, dry flowers and tall shoots (leaving 10 cm in height) are cut off, and the plant is brought into a colder (2-3°C) room for wintering, rarely watered. And with the onset of spring, they are transplanted into a larger pot, or planted in open ground.

Young (annual) indoor chrysanthemums are replanted every year into a wider pot, adult chrysanthemums are replanted once every 2 years. The soil for chrysanthemums should be acidic. You can use regular garden soil, but to make the soil softer and lighter, add peat, humus, sand and vermiculite.

Chrysanthemums are propagated in various ways. This can be cuttings, dividing a bush, or seeds. The simplest and most unpretentious are the first two. When planting, it is better to place three to five cuttings in one pot.

The easiest way to propagate a plant is by dividing the bush. This method can be started during the growing season. One bush after wintering produces about 6 young shoots. They are planted in pots with fertile soil and watered abundantly. The chrysanthemum will bloom in the year of planting.

Propagation by cuttings will take longer. Cuttings 10 cm long are suitable for this purpose. They are rooted in light soil. The cuttings are planted at a depth of 1.5 cm and covered with film or glass. You should not forget to ventilate them regularly, maintaining a constant temperature within 20 degrees. Approximately 5-6 rooted cuttings are planted in a pot. When they reach a size of 15 cm, they must be pinched to properly form the bush.

Diseases and pests

Basic care consists of controlling the following pests and diseases:

• spider mite;
• powdery mildew;
• gray rot;
• septoria.

Spider mites most often infect the plant. This is evidenced by the appearance of a white cobweb. To get rid of this pest, the following measures are taken: the leaves of the flower are wiped with a cloth moistened in a soap solution. Also, affected chrysanthemums are treated with drugs such as Pyrethrum and Actellik.

A gray coating on peduncles and foliage indicates the appearance of powdery mildew. It usually occurs due to increased air humidity. Such plants should be sprayed with a fungicide and placed in a dry place.

Gray rot is characterized by the appearance of brown spots on the leaves. In this case, the flower is treated with foundationazole, after which it is taken out into the sun and thoroughly ventilated.

If the plant has been affected by septoria, then in this case it becomes covered with brown spotting with a yellow edging. The flower is treated with foundationazole and the number of waterings is reduced.

Before purchasing a plant, you should find out how to care for indoor chrysanthemum. This plant loves short daylight hours, about eight hours, and coolness. In order for it to preserve the inflorescences well, it is not advisable to raise the temperature above 15 degrees. 18 degrees is an acceptable temperature, but it is the maximum.

If it is warmer, there is a high probability that flowering will end quickly, the leaves will turn yellow, and the unopened buds will dry out. High temperature has a greater effect on plants that have not yet had time to adapt.

Symptoms of diseases and pests in chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are affected by a variety of fungal diseases and pests. At the same time, the signs of illness are largely similar. If alarming symptoms appear on the shoots, leaves and flowers of a plant, then this should be a reason for the gardener to carefully examine the chrysanthemum.

You can understand that a plant has been exposed to pests or fungus by the following signs:

• yellowing and wilting - almost any disease leads to the fact that the plant’s foliage stops receiving nutrition and dries out;
• the appearance of dark dots and spots, sometimes chrysanthemum leaves become covered with spots due to a disturbance in the growing season, sometimes the dots represent fungal spores or pest larvae;
• curling and dying of foliage in the lower part of the plant, this often occurs due to root rot or nematode infection;
• the appearance of an unusual coating on the leaves and stems of a plant, for example, a spider mite leaves a light cobweb on the back of the leaf blades;
• deformation of buds and lack of flowering, this often occurs when infected with meadow bugs.

Any disease causes spots to appear on the leaves of the plant.

When the first alarming symptoms appear, it is necessary to examine the plants and determine what kind of disease they have suffered from.

Non-communicable diseases

Errors in chrysanthemum growing technology can lead to diseases - the condition of the soil, fertilizing and watering regimes affect the development of autumn flowers, violation of the care conditions weakens them, and this is a direct path to infection with various infections.

Flower growers are familiar with the concept of “root suffocation”; the root system literally suffocates from excess moisture and lack of air in the soil, if it is clayey, not well drained and at the same time flooded with rain. A plant that is forced to exist in such conditions turns yellow, its roots rot, and eventually it dies.

The inability to absorb excess moisture leads to a crack appearing on the stem under the bud, and the future chrysanthemum flower breaks off or becomes deformed. On the other hand, a lack of moisture in the soil also depresses chrysanthemum bushes, the foliage becomes lethargic, and disease resistance decreases. Low ambient temperatures cause the leaf to turn yellow or red along the veins.

Unbalanced feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers also weakens the plant. For example, you cannot fertilize flowers with fresh manure. This leads to burns of the roots and weakens them, making them susceptible to infection.

Chrysanthemum diseases and their treatment will not cause any special problems for flower growers if you follow the rules of care and are attentive to your flowers.

Chrysanthemum diseases and their treatment

There are several main ailments that most often affect chrysanthemums. These are mainly fungal diseases, but sometimes flowers are susceptible to viruses.

Septoria

Symptoms of the disease include spots on the foliage of a flowering perennial. At first they are yellow, then gradually acquire a dark brown and black tint, grow and merge with each other. The disease spreads from the bottom up, the basal leaves of the plant are affected first. If you do not begin to treat septoria, it can lead to the complete death of the perennial.

Septoria can be recognized by yellow-brown spots

Getting rid of septoria in the early stages is quite simple. It is necessary to completely remove the affected leaves, and then treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture or copper preparations - vitriol, HOM solution.

White rust

Fungal disease has characteristic symptoms. First, lighter areas appear on the leaves, and orange spots of a powdery structure appear on the underside of the leaf blades. Over time, the disease spreads throughout the flower, the chrysanthemum weakens and begins to fade. Such a plant can no longer bloom properly.

White rust appears as powdery orange spots on the bottom and light areas on the top of the leaf.

To cure rust, you need to urgently trim off all leaves with light and orange spots. After this, you need to thin out the chrysanthemum bushes to ensure free access of air, and spray the flowerbed with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate. Subsequently, chrysanthemums need to be watered very carefully so that water does not fall on their leaves.

Fusarium

A fungal disease affects the root system. But the first symptoms become noticeable on the leaves, they turn yellow and brown, begin to dry out and fall off. The nutrition of the plant is disrupted, the chrysanthemum ceases to receive nutrients from the soil in the required volumes and ultimately dies.

With fusarium, the leaves become covered with dots and turn yellow.

To cure the disease, you need to remove the affected leaves and flowers. Chrysanthemum plantings are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, and the soil is spilled with solutions that increase acidity. for example, potassium sulfate or ammonium nitrate. It is better to eliminate individual plants that have suffered too much from the disease; it is almost impossible to save a seriously affected root system.

Powdery mildew

The fungus very often affects chrysanthemums in damp and warm weather. The disease manifests itself as a recognizable coating on the leaves, whitish, ash-gray, with a powdery structure. As the disease progresses, the leaf blades begin to wither and die, the plant's vegetative processes cease, and it dies.

Features of indoor chrysanthemums

This plant, amazing in its beauty, comes from the Middle Kingdom. Among the eastern peoples, the flower was associated with the Sun, so it is no coincidence that the word “chrysanthemum” means “golden”.

Breeders managed to develop more than 160 varieties. Bush chrysanthemums in pots belong to the genus Asteraceae. They differ not only in their colors (there are only blue and purple flowers), but also in the shape of the bush, bud and petals. The plant is rightfully a favorite of many gardeners who have learned to grow it at home.

The flower is perennial; you can admire its amazing beauty for a long time. Yellow, white, burgundy, lilac or pink chrysanthemum blooms until late autumn:

• the plant has a powerful root system;
• its leaves are pale green;
• the inflorescences are arranged on the bush in a circle, forming a ball;
• The memorable characteristic smell does not allow this flower to be confused.

Potted chrysanthemum is miniature. Flowers are prevented from growing by special preparations that are used for growing ornamental plants at home.

Chrysanthemum at home does not require special care rules. It will be enough to provide the flower with regular watering, monitor the lighting and do not forget about feeding the flowers. In the summer, seedlings are allowed to be taken outside.

Temperature

Growing a flower begins with choosing the right place to place it in the house. It is important that the potted plant is located in the western part of the apartment. The sun can damage the plant, so it is better not to place flowers on windowsills facing south. By placing the plant in the northern part of the house, you will encourage slow growth and flowering of the seedlings. Most of all, decorative chrysanthemum loves glazed balconies, where there is always good lighting.

Chrysanthemum in a pot does not like heat. The favorite time of year for the plant to bloom is autumn, when it is cool and daylight hours are shortening. Gardeners use these factors to achieve repeated flowering. In early spring, to ensure active flowering, plants are exposed to cool weather.

It is optimal if the temperature in the home garden is 21-23 °C. The room must be ventilated. In summer it should not allow direct rays to pass through. Flowers are not afraid of the cold, so in winter they can easily tolerate low temperatures (down to -8 °C). The most suitable temperature for autumn is 16-18 °C. This will help extend the flowering period.

Watering chrysanthemums

Potted crops need good watering. Remember that with abundant moisture it is necessary to ensure that the soil does not rot. This plant does not like water added to the tray. Maintain regular watering (every 3-4 days), otherwise you will encounter the inflorescences turning yellow and withering.

Do not forget to sometimes humidify the air and spray the flowers with water at room temperature. You can place a container of liquid next to the seedlings or purchase a special air humidifier.

Feeding flowers

Homemade chrysanthemums in pots require constant addition of minerals and organic matter. Growing a flower includes fertilizing with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, which ensures active growth. Ready-made fertilizer mixtures can be purchased at any specialty store. Humus, wood ash and compost are suitable for the plant.

During the flowering period, the frequency of fertilizer application must be increased to 1 time every 10 days. If flower depletion is observed, try adding organic matter every 3-4 days. For caring for potted chrysanthemums, manure dissolved in water (1:10) is best suited. Wait until the growing season and start feeding the plant with this organic fertilizer. To prevent the flower from emitting an unpleasant odor, take it to an open balcony.

Failure to follow these rules may cause the plant to stop developing and its leaves to turn yellow and fall off.

Caring for potted chrysanthemums includes the fight against various diseases. House flowers suffer from powdery mildew, gray rot and septoria - these are fungal diseases that affect the appearance of the plant.

As they multiply, fungal spores infect the stem, leaves and even buds. This leads to the fact that the plant begins to wither, turns yellow, losing its vitality, and gradually dries out.

Gray rot leads to the formation of brown spots and a bluish coating on the foliage. The drug “Fundazol” will help save chrysanthemums from the rapid development of fungus. This remedy is also used if large rusty spots appear on the plant - this is how septoria manifests itself.

No less often, domestic flowers are attacked by insect pests. When the temperature regime is violated, a red mite settles in a dry room, which very quickly entangles flowers and leaves with its web, preventing them from growing and developing normally. Special preparations “Pyrethrum” and “Actellik” will help fight insects.

There are different types of these flowers suitable for cultivation indoors. In principle, any species can be grown in a pot. However, many varieties are very tall, making them difficult to cultivate at home. Therefore, indoor chrysanthemums, as a rule, are selected from low-growing varieties.

Chinese varieties are popular among gardeners. Bushes with a height of 15 centimeters can grow up to 70 cm. The shapes of the inflorescences of Chinese varieties are quite different. These can be single flowers or huge caps of inflorescences. In addition to varieties of medium height, there are also dwarf varieties, for example “Minimum”.

In addition to Chinese varieties, low-growing species of Korean origin are also planted in the pot. During the flowering period, the Orange Jam variety becomes a bright blooming pillow. It belongs to the “Multiflora” series of varieties. All varieties of this series have spherical inflorescences and are very beautiful. Korean varieties can be grown freely in a personal plot.

In flower shops you can also find Indian varieties of these flowers. They are in pots because in our climate they can only live indoors. Their habitat in the house is a balcony or window sill. They are also often used for planting in greenhouses.

This flower can be either annual or perennial. It has a branched root system, the development of which occurs parallel to the surface. The leaves of the plant are light green and are dissected, serrated or notched. A dense inflorescence is formed by small flowers collected in a basket.

Indoor chrysanthemum has a large number of varieties that grow wonderfully at home. These types differ from garden ones in their miniature size. This is explained by the fact that for growing indoors they use drugs that stop their growth for decorative purposes.

When purchasing a flower for growing in pots, you should choose a strong and healthy specimen with a well-formed stem and dense foliage. After purchase, the plant adapts to new conditions for some time. To prevent it from contracting diseases from other room inhabitants, it is quarantined for several days.

Indoor chrysanthemum flowers differ from their garden relatives in their small size. This is explained by the peculiarities of cultivation. Indoor chrysanthemum is grown in a greenhouse. There it is treated with various substances that slow down growth. Thanks to this, a compact bush is formed.

Sometimes flower lovers purchase a cutting to grow a houseplant chrysanthemum, but end up with a large bush. This can be explained by ignorance of specific growing conditions. Let's consider the features of choosing a chrysanthemum.

Indoor chrysanthemum flowers: care at home. Photo

First, the plant is carefully examined. It should be dense and strong, with well-developed leaves. Under no circumstances should there be any insects crawling on the trunk, leaves or ground.

After purchase and delivery home, indoor chrysanthemum flowers are left separately from other plants. In a couple of days of quarantine, the plant will be able to adapt to new conditions. In them, the purchased plant weakens somewhat, and its resistance to diseases decreases. Therefore, quarantine protects not only old-timers from disease, but also newcomers.

In order for the bush to form lush, special care for home chrysanthemums is required. The plant is pinched and trimmed during its active growth. If this is not done, the stems will stretch out and the bush will lose its compactness and attractiveness.

To increase the flowering time, you need to monitor the plant and immediately remove faded inflorescences and fading leaves. When it’s already warm outside in the spring, indoor chrysanthemums should be taken out onto the balcony or into the garden.

How to care for indoor chrysanthemum. Photo

You can also plant a home flower in the ground. There the chrysanthemum can remain until the cold weather, and then it should be planted in a pot again with a lump of earth. This procedure has a positive effect on the plant, makes it stronger and ensures better flowering.

Garden chrysanthemums can also be dug up and replanted in pots for the winter. In this case, they will delight you with their flowers for a long time.

Pests of chrysanthemums and their control

In addition to diseases, chrysanthemums are threatened by garden pests. There are several insects that pose a particular danger to flowers.

Leaf nematode

The most dangerous pest of chrysanthemums are nematodes - small roundworms that are difficult to see with the naked eye. They overwinter in the soil or in unharvested plant debris, and with the onset of warm weather they move to stems and leaf blades.

You can recognize the nematode by its characteristic symptoms - yellow-brown spots on the leaves, spreading from bottom to top. The spots gradually cover all the green leaf blades of the plant, merge with each other, and the affected leaves curl and fall off.

When infected with a nematode, dark spots appear on the leaves

A nematode is a pest, and when it appears, plant material must simply be destroyed. The infected chrysanthemum is removed from the flowerbed along with the adjacent soil, and the soil is thoroughly treated with insecticides, for example, Aktara.

Aphids are a very common pest of flowering perennials. It is quite difficult to notice it from afar, but if you look closer at the leaves, small green or reddish insects will become noticeable on the back surface of the leaves.

Aphids feed on the sap of chrysanthemum leaves and shoots. If you do not fight the insect, then in just one summer, aphids can destroy all flowering perennials. The pest is not only very voracious, but also lays eggs several times per season.

Aphids can almost completely eat chrysanthemum bushes

Aphids must be controlled by spraying. If the chrysanthemums are not severely affected, then a soap or onion solution will be sufficient. In case of heavy infestation, it is better to use insecticidal chemicals - Actellik, Aktara.

Spider mite

Spider mites cause damage to chrysanthemum plantings. They usually appear in early spring and closer to autumn; it is difficult to notice them at the very beginning. But over time, symptoms become noticeable - the foliage on which the tick feeds begins to turn brown and dry out, and a light cobweb coating appears on the back of the leaves.

When spider mites appear, the leaves below are covered with a thin cobweb

The fight against spider mites comes down to spraying flower beds with insecticidal preparations or colloidal sulfur. Sanitary cleaning is important - spider mites overwinter in plant debris and lumps of soil. To prevent it from multiplying, it is necessary to clean the area and loosen the soil with the onset of autumn.

Meadow bug

The harmful insect damages all green parts of the chrysanthemum. The bug feeds on leaves, buds and blooming flowers. Under the influence of the pest, the plant stops blooming, its buds and flowers fall off, and the leaves become deformed.

The meadow bug damages buds, leaves and stems

The fight against the meadow bug consists of spraying the flower bed with insecticides - Aktellik and Aktara, Skor. For mild infections, you can use homemade solutions - soap and onion, but they do not always bring results.

Storing indoor chrysanthemums in winter

Growing chrysanthemums in a pot involves following several basic rules.

1. During flowering, the plant should remain on the balcony, veranda or window. After the chrysanthemum has bloomed, it must be properly prepared for wintering. Pruning is done very carefully so as not to harm the flower. Withered buds along with the upper part of the leaves are removed. It is recommended to leave no more than 10-12 cm of the stem. The procedure will allow you to preserve the flower in the cold season until spring. After this procedure, the plants are removed to a dark and cool place. During winter, potted chrysanthemums are watered occasionally. With the onset of spring, the flower can be planted in open ground or continued to be grown in a pot on the windowsill. Planting chrysanthemums in the garden begins with choosing the right site. Remember that flowers love well-ventilated, but not sunny places. Fertilize the soil in which you will plant the plant in advance. You should not dig holes deeper than 50-70 cm. Carefully place the seedlings and sprinkle them with soil, not forgetting to water them generously.
2. If there is no cool basement or cellar, you are allowed to leave the flower at home. In this case, the pruning is much shorter. The sprouts should not be higher than 5-8 cm. Leaves, buds and outdated shoots should be carefully removed. To place the flower pot, choose a well-lit place, do not forget to water it once a month.
3. Caring for chrysanthemums in pots involves placing the plant in the basement for the winter. After trimming the bush, water it abundantly and take it to a cool place. In spring the flower is brought into the house. Shoots will appear very quickly after this procedure.
4. To grow chrysanthemums, many gardeners plant them in open ground for the winter. After planting, the plants are trimmed and securely covered with dry leaves mixed with peat. Film will help protect flowers from frost.

Prevention of diseases and pests in chrysanthemums

Many diseases can be treated, but the easiest way is to prevent their occurrence, rather than wasting energy on fighting illnesses. Prevention of diseases in chrysanthemums comes down to several measures:

1. Every autumn, the flower beds are thoroughly cleaned and all plant debris is removed. In clean areas, fungi and pests appear much less frequently.
2. Flowering perennials should be watered sparingly, avoiding waterlogging of the soil. Fungal diseases develop much more readily in swampy soil.
3. The soil in a flower bed should be regularly fertilized with potassium and phosphorus - these substances increase the resistance of plantings to disease.
4. Every spring, plants need to be sprayed prophylactically with Bordeaux mixture three times after the start of the growing season, with breaks of 10 days.

To prevent diseases and pests from developing in a flowerbed with perennials, it is recommended to regularly loosen and weed the soil.

To prevent disease, it is important to keep the area neat and tidy.

White spotting on ornamental plants

The pathogen of the genus Septoria often causes damage to ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers. Among them:

• rhododendron;
• spirea;
• lupine;
• roses;
• phlox;
• hydrangea;
• chrysanthemum;
• chrysanthemums.

On indoor plants, the disease was noted on anthurium and azalea. Reasons: violation of growing conditions (heat, high humidity), improper care.

Folk remedies

You can also fight aphids using safe means. Everyone knows about them, so they should be used in the initial stages of aphid infestation.

Onion peel infusion

20 grams of onion peels should be infused in a liter of water. The infusion is used three times. The break between treatments is 10 days.

Garlic infusion

Garlic cloves are peeled and chopped. Fill the mixture with water and leave for several hours. Chrysanthemums are sprayed with this solution.

Infusion of dried citrus peels

The collected peels from oranges and tangerines are dried. After grinding, add water and leave for 3 days. After filtering, pour the solution into a spray bottle and treat all above-ground parts of the plants.

Solution of laundry and tar soap

A small number of aphids can be dealt with with a soap solution. Dissolve shavings of laundry or tar soap in a bucket of warm water. The bushes should be sprayed so that the liquid gets into areas with aphid colonies.

Tobacco

A decoction of tobacco dust or shag waste is prepared as follows: a kilogram of tobacco is dissolved in 5 liters of water and left for a day. Boil for an hour. After settling, filter and dilute half a liter of broth in a bucket of water. It is advisable to add 100 grams of soap for better adhesion.

Pelargonium

The smell of pelargonium repels aphids well. It is planted together with chrysanthemums. This will prevent the appearance of aphids in the flowerbed.