Columnar apricots: the best varieties and growing tips

Description, external features

The tree of a new variety of apricot has an interesting column-like shape.
Short branches extend from the straight trunk, the length of which does not exceed 20 cm. In the south, the height of the plant reaches 3 meters; in the middle zone the trees are slightly lower. White or pink buds bloom on them in early spring - at the end of March or April. The leaves, regardless of shape, point upward. Orange, red or yellow apricots ripen on the side branches. The weight of the fruit depends on the variety, on the conditions of cultivation and care, on average it weighs 20 g, some specimens reach 80 or even 100 grams, but there are also very small berries. Summer residents are happy to plant columnar apricots, since the tree needs no more than a square meter of area to grow and bear fruit. The advantages of the varieties include:

1. Possibility of canning fruits for the winter.
2. Good yield.
3. Interesting appearance of the plant.

The fruits appear in the third year, picking them is easy and convenient. Columnar apricots are immune to many diseases of garden trees. However, not all summer residents know how to form a crown, that the plant needs to be pruned every year, without this the crop does not develop normally, and few fruits ripen.

Low-growing apricot varieties

Compact, low varieties of apricots are valued by many precisely for their size, which allows them to harvest without the use of special equipment. In addition, these trees take up much less space in the garden, which is important in conditions of limited space.

Low-growing varieties of apricots usually include those whose height does not exceed 2.5 m. This height allows you to reach the top branches from the ground without the help of stepladders and stands. Low-growing apricots include:

• Snowfinch.
• Cup.
• Black mouse.

Their compact shape and small size make it possible to completely cover the tree for the winter, so they can be grown even in areas with an unfavorable climate.

Diseases and pests

Bacterial burn

Signs: the burn appears on all parts of the plant. Sores appear, from which gum begins to leak.

Fighting methods:

1. Cut off and burn the affected areas of the tree, and smear the sections with garden varnish.
2. Treat with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture with the addition of copper sulfate.
3. After harvesting, treat the apricot with Bordeaux mixture (3%)

Clusterosporiosis
Signs: leaves become covered with brown spots, after which tissue begins to die.

Fighting methods:

1. Trim affected branches and leaves immediately.
2. Treat the plant with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture

Valsa mushroom
Signs:

Orange nodes grow in the bark and branches. The leaves turn yellow and wither.

Fighting methods:

1. It is not advisable to prune apricots during the dormant period.
2. For better air flow to the roots of the tree, the soil is treated with a fungicidal spray.

Aphids
Signs: miniature insects that settle on the back of leaves.

Fighting methods:

1. The wood is treated with copper preparations.
2. Treat with Holister

Leaf roller
Signs: the pest of apricot is the leaf roller caterpillar. In the summer they wrap themselves in leaves and prepare to reproduce.

Fighting methods:

1. The plant is treated with Entobacterin, Inta-Vir (0.5%).
2. Fufanon is effective

Description of apricots varieties Akademik and Lel

First, read the description of apricots of the Akademik and Lel varieties with fairly early ripening periods.

Apricot variety Academician is a vigorous tree, forms a rounded-elongated crown shape. The standard is of medium thickness. The bark on the trunk is lumpy, gray, on the branches of the first and second orders it is pale gray. Annual shoots are slightly geniculate, greenish-brown with numerous subcutaneous points. The buds are large, usually arranged in threes together, spaced from the shoot, and light brown in color. The leaves are large, ovate, with a slight point towards the apex, thin and smooth.

The upper side of the leaf is dark green, the lower side is whitish. The petiole is dark green, slightly reddish, long. The flower is large, pale pink, the peduncle is short, greenish. Petals are medium-closed, ovoid. The cup is goblet-shaped. The stigma of the pistil is located above the stamens or at the same level with them. Therefore, the variety is partially self-fertile. It produces high yields in joint plantings with the Khabarovsk and Amur varieties.

Apricot fruits are large, their shape is rounded and elongated with a beak at the top. The surface is slightly pubescent, smooth, orange with a carmine blush. Does not crack under the influence of rain. The pulp is light yellow, juicy, tender, slightly crispy, with a pleasant sweet-sour taste. Transportability is average. The bone is loosely lagging. The size of the bone is average, rounded-flat, with a pronounced rib. The kernel is sweet.

The average flowering period is May 15-25. Fruit ripening occurs at the end of July - beginning of August. Fruiting occurs in the third year of the scion’s life, and mass fruiting occurs in the sixth or seventh year. Fruits every year. Productivity is high. Winter hardiness - bone and burn resistance are quite high when cultivated on mountain slopes.

It freezes on the islands and coastal river valleys. To increase stability, it is recommended to graft highly winter-hardy and burn-resistant skeleton-forming plants into the crown. Resistant to drought and waterlogging on the surface of the ridge. Relatively resistant to moniliosis, clasterosporiasis, and fruit rot. Damage by the codling moth is moderate.

The advantages of the variety are large fruits of a universal type, good presentation. The fruits do not crack. This is the largest-fruited local variety.

Apricot variety Lel is a medium-sized tree up to 3 m, with a compact crown. Annual shoots are weakly branched. It is distinguished by moderate, restrained growth. In autumn, the leaves turn various shades of red. The flowers are medium in size, 3 cm in diameter.

The fruits weigh about 20 g. The description of the Lel apricot variety differs from others in that their fruits are slightly flattened on the sides. The skin is orange without blush, almost not pubescent, the fruits are beautiful, very shiny. The pulp is dense, tender, orange.

The fruits of this variety are the most delicious. The bone separates perfectly.

Fruit ripening is early, but a little later than Alyosha and Iceberg. Productivity is generally average, occasionally high. Reliability, stability and moderation in everything are inherent in this variety.

The fruits are suitable for fresh consumption, and the jams and compotes made from them are of high quality. The keeping quality of the variety is good.

Winter hardiness and frost resistance are good. Fruiting on all types of shoots. Grafted plants begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after grafting.

The best varieties of columnar apricot

Scientists did not stop at breeding just one hybrid of a garden crop, but created several varieties that differ in ripening time, color and weight of fruits, recommended by the region for cultivation. The best varieties of apricots for the middle zone should be chosen among columnar trees that are not afraid of cold winters and are easily located in a small area.

To avoid taking up space with pollinating plants, you need to plant self-fertile hybrids. Perfect for the Moscow region:

1. Gold;
2. Star;
3. Sunny.

The fruits of the Prince Mart variety ripen by the end of July and are already set on two-year-old trees. Apricot tolerates severe frosts, is rarely susceptible to disease, and does not require additional pollination. Three or four plants will provide enough fruit for a family to eat and preserve for the winter. In the northern regions, the variety can be planted in greenhouses, since the height of the tree barely reaches 2 meters. The bright orange fruits weigh about 60 g.

Summer residents and gardeners in the Moscow region are happy to grow the self-fertile Zvezdny apricot, which delights with its yield.

Although the fruits ripen quite late, a whole bucket of juicy and sweet fruits are harvested from one compact plant, differing in:

• yellow color;
• pulp with a pleasant aroma;
• thin skin;
• weighing about 80 grams.

Trees of the Gold variety more than 2 meters high do not die at 33-34 °C below zero. In August, oval-shaped apricots with an unusual pinkish blush ripen. The productive Sunny variety is cultivated in mid-latitudes. It tolerates low temperatures and does not freeze at minus 35 degrees. The golden fruits ripen in August and weigh up to 60 grams, but pollinating plants need to be planted next to the apricot.

The height of the tree is about 2.5 m, but up to 1.5 buckets of fruit are collected from it. Sunny also takes root in partial shade, but the yield in such a place drops significantly. In Kuban, where the climate is favorable and the soil is fertile, any variety of stone fruit crops is grown.

Winter-hardy apricot varieties

Apricots from this list are characterized by increased resistance to low temperatures. Moreover, not only the trees themselves are frost-resistant, but also their buds, which are often more prone to freezing.

Among the winter-hardy varieties, the following varieties can be distinguished:

• Cupid hybrid
• Bai
• Hardy.
• Innokentyevsky.
• Red-cheeked.
• Darling.
• Honey.
• Monastic.
• Partisan highland.
• Russian.
• Snigirek.
• Spassky.
• Triumph Northern.
• Ussuri

Of this list, the Red-cheeked apricot is the most famous and long-cultivated variety. More than 70 years have passed since its breeding, and it still enjoys the love and respect of gardeners.

The following hybrids were bred on the basis of Red-cheeked:

• Red-cheeked Salgirsky.
• Son of Red-cheeked.
• Nikitsky.
• Nikolaevsky.

Partisan alpine is the most frost-resistant variety known, its winter hardiness is -50 degrees Celsius.

Features of planting columnar apricots

• The place for planting apricots must be prepared individually for each seedling so that all the roots fit freely in the hole;
• Before planting, you need to add a little potassium or fertilizer, mixing them with the ground;
• It is necessary to take into account that then the earth may settle slightly, which is why the tree will begin to grow unevenly, and water may be washed out when watering;
• Despite the fact that the crowns of columnar trees allow them to be planted closer to each other, the distance between seedlings should be at least a meter.

Further care for apricots is quite simple. It is better to fertilize three times during the growing season - commercial fertilizer, slurry, and chicken droppings will do. It is better to fertilize flowers from seedlings in the first year, immediately pluck all excess branches and periodically carry out preventive spraying against pests.

If it is not possible to purchase specialized products, then those designed for apple trees are also suitable - this will help keep the tree healthy.

In addition, it is especially important to prune the branches, otherwise the crown of the apricot will turn from a columnar one into a regular spreading one, only the fruits on the branches will be arranged in a special way, resembling a column.

How to plant and grow apricots in the Moscow region

Growing apricot orchards in the Moscow region is not difficult; it is important to choose the right variety and follow agricultural practices. Basic rules for growing, planting and caring for plants:

1. Choose healthy seedlings from trusted producers.
2. Maintain a distance between bushes; for medium-sized plants it is 8 meters.
3. Do not choose places for plants on a hill - the tree may freeze.
4. Planting of seedlings is carried out in early spring.
5. During the period of bud set, trees are preventively treated against insect pests and fungal diseases with fungicides and insecticides.
6. Some varieties require shelter for the winter.
7. Choose self-pollinating varieties.
8. The tree trunk circles are loosened and mulched with humus mixed with ash.
9. In spring and autumn, the trunks are treated with lime solution.

With proper care, heat-loving plants give a good harvest in temperate latitudes. For small farms, choose low-growing varieties or columnar varieties.

It is important that the selected variety is zoned and recommended for cultivation in the Central region and the Moscow region.

Features of planting columnar apricots

Both apricots and hybrids bred through selection are demanding of light and love the sun. In the absence of such conditions, if fruits are set, they will be in small quantities, and the taste will sharply deteriorate. Trees bloom very poorly in the shade.

You don’t need a lot of space for a columnar apricot, so you can always find a small area where the cold wind does not hit and there are no drafts. It is easy to plant a tree between buildings at a distance of 20-15 centimeters from them, but so that no shadow falls on it. Apricots should not be placed in lowlands, where both melt and rainwater stagnate and cool and humid air accumulates. The tree will be comfortable if you find a place for it at the foot of a gentle slope.

In the southern regions, columnar apricots are planted in open ground in both October and April. In the fall, it manages to take root and get stronger before the cold weather arrives no earlier than December. In the middle zone, trees are planted only at the end of spring or in the first month of summer, since frosts are a frequent occurrence here, and the hydrometeorological center is not able to predict when they will come.

Apricots develop poorly and often get sick in the place where they used to grow:

1. tomatoes and peppers;
2. raspberries and strawberries;
3. potatoes and eggplants.

Such crops are attacked by helicopters and infect fruit trees with fungi. It is very difficult to cope with the pathogen. Apricot seedlings, preferably 2-year-old ones, are placed at a distance of 80 cm-1 m, leaving at least a meter between rows. Trees take root well on loose soils, permeable to moisture, and grow on loams, gray soils and chernozems.

It is advisable to buy seedlings in special nurseries that are located in your area, since the apricots that they sell are adapted specifically to this climate. The height of the tree should be within a meter. It is necessary to check whether the roots bend, whether the seedlings have healthy bark, and whether there is a trace of grafting. You should not buy apricots grown from the seed.

The hole for the tree is prepared in the fall. Both its depth and width should be within 60-70 cm. To prevent the water from turning sour, expanded clay or small crushed stone is poured onto the bottom in a 40 mm layer, after which wood ash or mineral fertilizers in the form of urea, superphosphate or potassium nitrate are added.

The top layer of earth is mixed with humus and sand, placed at the bottom of the hole, a support for the tree is installed nearby and covered, and in the spring:

1. Make a hole in which the apricot is planted vertically.
2. Pour and compact the soil, leaving a root neck of about 5 cm above the surface.
3. A furrow is made along the tree trunk, sprinkled with peat or straw.
4. The tree is attached to a support and watered with 2 buckets of warm water.

In order for the columnar plant to take root faster, the roots are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or a biostimulant, after which they are shortened a little and dipped in mash made from clay and manure.

The best varieties of apricot for the Moscow region

Growing apricots in the Moscow region has become a popular activity for local residents. It is not difficult to understand the classification of recommended varieties - crops are divided into four groups, depending on the period of fruit ripening and crown type: early ripening, late ripening, columnar and low-growing.

Early ripening

The fruits of such trees reach technical ripeness already in mid-summer. Popular early ripening apricots for the Moscow region are Laureate and Early.

Early

Representative of large-fruited apricots. The tree is vigorous, with a spreading crown. When fully ripe, the fruits are yellow in color with a pink side. The taste is excellent, the flesh is yellow and aromatic.

Laureate

A domestic selection variety recommended for cultivation in the Central region of our country. Suitable for amateur breeding. It is characterized by abundant yield, high winter hardiness of the bark and average frost resistance of the buds. Laureate is resistant to weathering. The color of ripe fruits is yellow.

Late-ripening crops

Harvesting of such crops occurs in the fall. As a rule, fruits are stored longer and are suitable for transportation.

Honey

Chelyabinsk representative of Russian selection, the trees form a spreading crown, the fruits are universal in use, excellent for canning. The variety can withstand frosts down to -40 0C. Productivity is average but stable. Ripe fruits are yellow in color, weighing up to 15 grams.

Favorite

Recommended for cultivation in the Central region, but is a heat-loving tree with average winter hardiness. The fruits ripen late and the plant is susceptible to hole spotting. Self-fertile apricot. The color of ripe fruits is orange, with a red blush.

Frost resistant

An undoubted advantage of apricots when grown in the Moscow region is winter hardiness. Consider popular winter-hardy varieties.

Northern Triumph

Northern apricot Triumph is resistant to frost and heat. Advantages: large-fruited, self-pollinating, rapid onset of fruiting. In winter, it tolerates frosts down to -33 0C, but when flowering begins, it resists spring frosts with uncertainty. The variety is characterized by alternating harvest seasons.

Manchurian

Deciduous plant of the Plum family. Reminds me of cherry blossoms. Listed in the Red Book as a rare species. Manchurian apricot is highly decorative. The crown is spreading, the tree needs staking. Suitable for growing in Siberia and the Far East. It tolerates temperature changes and drought well. Productivity is high, the tree grows and bears fruit for up to 100 years.

Red-cheeked

An unpretentious, self-pollinating, frost-resistant representative of the Crimean selection. It begins to bear fruit already in the third year of life. The fruits do not fall from the tree; a ripe crop can wait for harvest on the tree for three weeks. Immunity is average, apricot is susceptible to a number of fungal diseases, for example, moniliosis. The color of the fruit is orange, with a red side, the skin is velvety to the touch.

Snegirek

Drought-resistant and winter-hardy variety, recommended for cultivation in the Moscow region. Able to tolerate frosts down to -40 0C. Self-pollinating late flowering species. Productivity is average, fruiting is stable, without interruptions. Susceptible to hole spotting. The fruits are small in size, delicate cream color, with a red side.

Russian

Adapted for cultivation in regions with cold, changeable climates. The tree forms a spreading crown, the root system is powerful, the plant height is up to 4 meters. Currently not included in the State Register. The fruits are large, aromatic, and easily separated from the stone. Self-fertile crop, fruits ripen in early summer. It has strong immunity.

Self-fertile varieties

The main advantage of this group is self-pollination. There is no need to plant pollinating trees next to apricot plantations. For cultivation in the Moscow region, it is recommended to choose self-pollinating apricot varieties.

Alyosha

An early variety of domestic selection. The height of an adult plant is 3.5 meters. The fruits are small in size, weighing up to 15 grams. Alyosha tolerates drought and frost well.

Does not require additional watering. It is highly resistant to hole spot and fruit rot.

The taste of the fruit is excellent, but there is a small drawback - the large size of the seed.

Apricot of Russian selection of early ripening period. The tree reaches a height of no more than 3 meters. Ripe fruits weigh up to 20 grams, are rich yellow in color, sweet and aromatic. Productivity is high. Recommended for cultivation in the Moscow region and Siberia. Fruits every season. Resistant to diseases, practically not attacked by aphids.

Hardy

A self-fertile variety that is resistant to temperature changes and frosts, and the buds, bark and flowers of the plant can withstand cold weather. It is characterized by high productivity and begins to bear fruit in the 5th year of life. The fruits are round in shape, weighing up to 50 grams.

Columnar varieties

Trees of this group are compact and small in height. Suitable for growing in small areas, cottages, and private gardens. Plants of columnar varieties quickly take root and rarely suffer from fungal diseases.

Prince March

The height of the tree is 2 meters, the circumference of the bush in diameter is 30 centimeters. The fruits are orange in color, weighing up to 60 grams. Tolerates frosts down to -40 0C. Harvesting can begin from the beginning of August.

Star

Large-fruited columnar apricot, belonging to the self-fertile species. The taste characteristics of ripe fruits are excellent; the weight of the fruit can reach 100 grams. Winter hardiness is high, rarely susceptible to fungal diseases.

Low-growing and dwarf varieties

Trees grafted onto a dwarf rootstock do not form a spreading crown and reach a height of no more than two meters. The lifespan of dwarf apricots is about 20 years.

Note: the root system is not very developed compared to the main varieties, so watering is required for such plants.

Popular varieties of dwarf apricots include:

• Cup;
• Black mouse;
• Black Prince.

It is easier to care for such trees, they are compact and take up less space on the site, while the yield of low-growing apricots is high.

How to prune correctly

One of the features of apricots and all stone fruits is the high activity of the buds - almost all those that hatch begin to grow. Moreover, the fruits are formed mainly on branches that grew last year, or on bouquet branches, spurs and other fruit formations. Their lifespan is usually about three years.

As a tree ages, its growth processes are inhibited. Flower buds are formed only on short shoots, and at the end of fruiting these branches become bare. And because of the short life of bouquet branches, older branches also become bare. Therefore, adult apricots need to maintain growth processes, and this is what you need to focus on when pruning.

Pruning a columnar apricot is a very important point. It is best to stick to the tiered form (see photo), highlighting 5-6 main branches and leaving about 40 cm of distance between them. Correction of the crown shape begins in the first year of the plant’s life.

• If, when planting in spring, the seedling has no branches, it is cut off at a height of 80-90 cm.
• If there are lateral branches, then two of them are left, if possible those directed along the row, and shortened by half.
• All other branches are cut into a ring. The length of the central conductor should be cut 20-25 cm longer than the rest of the branches.

In summer, all competitive shoots that form at an acute angle are removed. In subsequent years, 3-4 more main branches are selected and pruned, on which branches will then form. The recommended distance between them is 35-40 cm.

To form a beautiful crown, you need to ensure that the upper shoots do not overtake the lower ones. If there are excess shoots, they can be shortened by turning them into fruit branches.

Once the desired crown shape is achieved, all that remains is to maintain it. To do this, you need to maintain the active growth of shoots by pruning them by shortening them by a third (if the branching of this variety is good) or by half. If the tree grows very quickly, additional pruning can be done in the summer, shortening the shoots by half or a quarter, depending on the intensity of growth.

Proper pruning

Pruning for any columnar tree is a strictly mandatory procedure. It is carried out at the end of March or in October, when the tree is in “hibernation” and the sap flow processes practically freeze. The temperature outside at this moment must certainly exceed 0ºС.

When pruning, use only sharp, well-sharpened, sterilized tools. “Wounds” are treated by washing with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. Then they are covered with sifted wood ash or crushed chalk and carefully covered with garden varnish or covered with several layers of oil paint.

Apricot pruning is carried out using a sharpened and disinfected tool.

In the spring, branches that have frozen or broken under the weight of snow must be removed. If the apical bud is frozen, one of the regularly formed vertical branches is left to replace the main shoot. To be on the safe side, you can leave one or two such shoots annually, shortening them to the second or third growth bud.

Pruning a columnar apricot is as follows. Up to a height of 40–45 cm, the trunk is completely cleared of any growth. For fruiting, branches are left located at a slight angle relative to it. The interval between them is about 15 cm. The optimal length of such shoots is 12–17 cm. They produce a harvest within 3–4 years, then they need to be replaced.

The pruning pattern for columnar apricots is very different from that required by conventional varieties.

In addition to pruning, it is also necessary to normalize the harvest. Apricot does not know how to shed “extra” fruit ovaries, and is not able to “feed” the entire tree. In the first year after planting, it is necessary to cut off all flowers so that they do not interfere with the rooting process. Subsequently, every fifth ovary is removed, choosing the least well located ones.

Video: pruning columnar trees

Columnar apricot - external features

The name of this fruit plant indicates the unusual shape of the tree, resembling a slender column. Many side branches extend from it, the average length of which is approximately 20 cm. Depending on climatic conditions, the tree can grow up to 3 meters, but this is only in the southern regions. Varieties of columnar apricots for the Moscow region grow up to 2 m in height, but this does not prevent them from bearing fruit abundantly.

In the first half of April, pinkish or snow-white inflorescences appear on the plant. And a little later it is dressed in oval or heart-shaped foliage. Each of them has a pointed tip, which is typical for this type of fruit tree.

Columnar apricot bears fruit in the second half of the hot summer. A lot of juicy fruits appear on elastic branches, weighing about 20 g. Some giants reach 100 g. They are mainly painted in the following colors:

• yellow;
• orange;
• red-orange.

A seed is “stored” inside the fruit, the core of which is also eaten. Some cooks add it to apricot jam to give it a piquant taste.

The bud, which is located at the top of the tree, is considered the most vulnerable point of the plant. If it suffers from frost or dies for some reason, the tree will produce vertical shoots. This leads to a violation of the unique integrity of the plant form.

To stimulate fruiting, gardeners regularly prune columnar apricots. In early spring or late autumn, they remove old branches and also shorten young shoots. The maximum length should be no more than 20 cm.

If this procedure is not done in time, the tree will lose its original shape. As a result, fruits will form only at the base of the side branches. By following this simple rule, you can enjoy an abundance of delicious fruits from an unusual tree every year.

Main characteristics

The tree has a non-standard “column” shape with small branches extending from the trunk. The apricot tree is a close relative of roses and peaches, so its pink or snow-white flowers are distinguished by their aroma and beauty, and the flowering itself occurs in the spring months - March and April. The leaves can be of various shapes - round, heart-shaped or oval, but always have a pointed tip.

The fleshy apricot fruit has one pit with a hard shell, but often with an edible kernel. The fruit ripening period occurs in August, and the weight of each ripe fruit ranges from 3 to 19 grams. Ripe fruits, depending on the variety, may have:

• pale or bright yellow;
• orange;
• white;
• red;
• black;
• red-orange color.

Columnar apricot trees can be grown in small garden plots. This plant is resistant to pests and diseases. Perhaps the only drawback of such trees is specific care:

• all ovaries should be removed in the very first spring;
• side branches should be pruned annually.

Care

Watering

When watering, remember that overmoistening the apricot roots can lead to their rotting. In moderate weather, watering once every 2 weeks will be sufficient for one tree. During summer drought it is necessary to water more often. One tree requires 30 liters of lukewarm, settled water. Water apricots early in the morning or late in the evening.

1.5 months after harvesting, before the onset of frost, each tree is watered abundantly, and then watering is stopped until spring.

Top dressing

For the first 2-3 seasons after planting, the apricot is not fed; it only needs the fertilizers that were mixed into the planting hole.

Immediately after thawing, the soil is carefully loosened, during which urea or ammonium sulfate is added. Every 2 years, 12-15 liters of humus are added.

Next, minerals and organic matter are alternated in the form of a solution of chicken manure, cow manure, and crushed herbs. Fertilizers are applied once every 5-6 weeks throughout the growing season.

After fruiting is completed, just before sheltering for the winter, wood ash is added.

Trimming

In order for the tree to maintain its columnar shape, it needs annual competent pruning. After dismantling the winter shelter, sanitary pruning is carried out, broken and frozen shoots are removed.

In spring and autumn, when the ambient temperature is zero, formative pruning is performed. To do this, remove all branches at a height of 40-45 cm from below. The shoots are pruned, leaving 12-17 cm and a distance between them along the trunk of 15 cm.

Diseases and pests

Since columnar apricots have high immunity to diseases, it is enough to take preventive measures three times a season. Spray with 3% copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.

To repel pests, it is enough to plant strong-smelling plants next to apricots - onions, garlic, nasturtium, rosemary and others. To repel rodents, the lower part of the trunk is whitened.

Wintering

Despite the high frost resistance of columnar apricots, in winter, especially in more severe climates, they require shelter. It is necessary to mulch the root zone with a thick layer of mulch with a mound near the trunk. Build something like a hut around the tree from scrap materials, and wrap the frame with covering material. In the spring, the shelter is dismantled.

Recommendations for crop care

Caring for columnar apricots differs little from what is required for ordinary varieties, but there are still some nuances. First of all, you should remember that the root system of “miniature” plants is located much closer to the soil surface, accordingly, you need to be careful with loosening the soil.

When watering apricots, it is important to find the “golden mean”. Both moisture deficiency and excess equally negatively affect the development of the plant. But it still tolerates drought better than the “swamp” in the tree trunk circle. In the first case, the fruit ovaries will fall off, in the second, the development of root rot and the death of the plant is almost inevitable.

On average, if it is not too hot outside, columnar apricot needs only one watering every 10-14 days. The soil at a depth of about 15 cm should already be dry by this time. This is easy to check. It is enough to dig a small hole and try to squeeze the soil into a fist. If it crumbles in your fingers, it's time. In extreme heat, the interval between waterings is halved. Additionally, you can spray the foliage once or twice a day. The norm for one plant is about 30 liters. If a columnar apricot is planted in “heavy” clay soil, it decreases by a third.

Apricot is a moisture-loving crop, but it categorically cannot tolerate stagnation of water at the roots.

The best time to water is early in the morning or late in the evening. The culture prefers sprinkling, simulating natural precipitation. Drops of water remaining on the leaves can act as lenses and cause sunburn. Water is used only when heated to room temperature. You can also practice drip irrigation or watering in ring furrows in the tree trunk circle.

In late September or early October, about 6-7 weeks after the entire crop has been harvested, the plant may need watering. It is carried out if there was little precipitation in the fall and the weather was warm. The water consumption rate is 50 liters for each tree. The procedure is necessary so that it can stock up on moisture in anticipation of the cold weather. Dry soil freezes more strongly.

It is not recommended to pour water under the base of the trunk of a columnar apricot - its roots are superficial, they quickly become exposed and dry out

With its compact dimensions, the columnar apricot produces almost the same yield as a regular apricot. Accordingly, it requires a lot of nutrients. What was added to the planting hole will be enough for the plant for two to three seasons, until the first fruiting.

The high yield of columnar apricot determines its high need for nutrients

Next, the apricot is fed every five to six weeks throughout the growing season. Mandatory - 7-10 days after flowering and a month after fruiting ends. As soon as the soil under the tree thaws, it is carefully loosened, while simultaneously distributing urea, ammonium sulfate or another fertilizer, mainly consisting of nitrogen (10–12 g/m²). You can prepare a solution by diluting the specified amount in 10 liters of water. This procedure helps the tree to quickly “wake up” from hibernation and begin to grow green mass. Once every two years, about a week after watering with a nutrient solution, 12–15 liters of humus are distributed under the tree to increase the fertility of the substrate.

Urea, like other nitrogen-containing fertilizers, in the right dosage activates the process of growth of green mass by the tree

Excess nitrogen is harmful to the crop. It negatively affects the plant's immunity. Productivity also suffers. The tree begins to “fatten”, and there is no longer any strength left to “feed” the fruits.

The culture responds well to both natural organic matter and store-bought complex mineral fertilizers. Therefore, you can alternate feedings. Infusions of fresh cow manure, bird droppings, nettle greens, and dandelion leaves are suitable for columnar apricots. In general, you can use any weeds growing on the site. If necessary, the raw materials are crushed, filled with warm water and left in the sun for 3-4 days in a container with a tightly closed lid. You can easily tell that the fertilizer is ready by its characteristic smell. Before use, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8 or 1:15 if chicken manure was used as a raw material. Store-bought fertilizers for columnar apricots include Kemira-Lux, Kristalin, Uniflor, Clean Sheet, Master, Bona Forte, and so on.

Nettle infusion is a very useful and absolutely free organic fertilizer.

A fruiting plant needs phosphorus and potassium. The most accessible source of these macronutrients is wood ash. It is added to the roots and base of the trunk during loosening in dry form or made as an infusion (a liter of raw material per 3 liters of hot water). Another suitable option is ABA fertilizers, Autumn. Once every 2–3 years, dolomite flour or another deoxidizing agent (200–300 g) is additionally added.

Fertilizer Autumn is specially designed for fertilizing at this time of year

Video: tips for caring for apricots

Frost resistance of most varieties of columnar apricot is not bad, but it is still better to play it safe and protect the tree, especially if a harsh winter with little snow is predicted. The tree trunk circle must be cleared in the fall, removing all plant debris, and covered with a fresh layer of mulch. Its optimal thickness is about 10 cm, at the trunk it is brought to 20–25 cm by adding a small mound.

Mulch helps protect the trunk and roots from freezing

The weakest point of columnar varieties is the apical bud. If their dimensions allow, put cardboard boxes of a suitable size on the trees, stuffing them with scraps of newsprint, straw, wood shavings, or special covers. A kind of hut is built around mature trees, stretching several layers of burlap or other air-permeable covering material over a frame of poles. It is strictly forbidden to use plastic film.

The construction of a shelter for the winter is mandatory if the apricot is grown in regions with a temperate climate.

Additional protection against frost is snow. As soon as enough of it falls, a snowdrift is placed at the base of the trunk. During the winter it will gradually settle, so you will have to renew the structure several times. In the process, you need to break the hard crust of crust that forms on the surface. It interferes with normal air exchange.

Another danger that threatens trees in winter is rodents. Most of them are not averse to eating fragrant wood. To protect apricots, the lower part of the trunk is whitened. You can use either a store-bought composition or a self-prepared one. The necessary ingredients are water, slaked lime, copper sulfate, powdered clay and office glue. In addition, branches of coniferous trees are tied to the base of the trunk.

Whitewashing helps protect fruit trees from rodents

At the beginning of the next growing season, the “protection” is removed no earlier than above-zero temperatures are established. As a rule, this happens at the end of March or even later. If in doubt, you can first make several holes in the material for ventilation. When there is a threat of return frosts, the trees are protected from the cold with the help of a smoke screen, lighting several fires in a circle. Another effective remedy is Epin diluted with cold water (5 liter ampoule). The effect of spraying lasts 8–10 days.

Spraying with Epin helps protect apricots from returning spring frosts

Video: preparing an apricot seedling for winter

The immunity of columnar apricots is quite good. Provided that proper agricultural technology is used to provide the plant with protection from diseases and pests, simple preventive measures are sufficient.

The tree is treated three times a season with copper-containing preparations - fungicides. You will also need to spray the soil in the tree trunk circle. For this purpose, they use both time-tested and more than one generation of gardeners means that have proven their effectiveness (2% Bordeaux mixture, 3% copper sulfate) and more modern preparations (HOM, Kuprozan, Oleocuprit, Strobi, Horus). Fungicides of biological origin have the least side effects on the environment - Alirin-B, Ridomil-Gold, Tiovit-Jet, Bayleton, Baikal-EM.

Bordeaux mixture is a proven fungicide, you can buy it or prepare it yourself

Columnar apricots are sprayed in the “green cone” phase (the leaves have almost opened), during the formation of fruit ovaries and in the fall, when all the foliage has fallen. If after this the bark takes on a bluish tint for a while, this is normal. For spraying, choose a dry and warm day. Processing during rain does not make sense.

Most pests avoid strong-smelling plants. Not far from the apricot you can plant onions, garlic, herbs, as well as marigolds, nasturtiums, rosemary, and sage. Special fishing belts and adhesive tape for catching flies help a lot. The soil in the garden bed is sprinkled with a mixture of ash and approximately equal volumes of tobacco chips, mustard powder or ground pepper. The leaves are sprayed with foam of laundry or green potassium soap, soda ash or colloidal sulfur diluted with water. It is advisable to fight pests with folk remedies. The use of insecticides is prohibited during flowering and about a month before expected fruiting.

Marigolds in the garden not only please the eye, but also repel many pests

The tree is regularly inspected for suspicious signs. If characteristic symptoms are detected, leaves, fruits, and shoots affected by the disease are immediately cut off and burned. If it was not possible to notice the problem in a timely manner or it is impossible to fight the disease with available drugs, you should not feel sorry for the apricot. On the contrary, the plant is immediately uprooted and burned, thereby eliminating the source of infection. The soil in the resulting pit is disinfected by generously pouring 5% copper sulfate or a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate.
Columnar apricots are located close to each other, so pathogenic fungi, viruses, and bacteria are transmitted to “neighbors” much faster than usual.

Popular varieties of columnar apricot

Prince March

Sometimes this variety is simply called Prince. It is famous for its increased productivity and frost resistance; it can be cultivated in the Urals and Siberia. It is self-fertile, which is a big advantage - there is no need to plant other apricot trees nearby. The Prince blooms in early spring, when pollinating insects are not yet active.

The fruits are bright orange in color, with a crimson blush and dark specks on the sunflower side, suede-like to the touch. The weight of one fruit is about 30-60 g, the flesh is bright yellow, juicy, sweet, with a honey taste and barely noticeable sourness. The stone separates well, the pulp does not boil over when preparing jam and compote.

The tree reaches a maximum height of 2 m. It begins to bear fruit at 2-3 years. The yield is stable, apricots ripen in early August. This variety has good immunity to diseases and pests.

Star

The variety is famous for its large fruit. Often the weight of one fruit is 60 g, but there are also giants weighing up to 100 g. The variety is self-pollinating, high-yielding, blooms in late April - early May, when the danger of return frosts has already passed.

The fruits ripen in the second half of August. They are yellow-orange in color, with a crimson blush, have thin skin, pale yellow, not too juicy flesh with a pleasant aroma and excellent taste.

Up to 10 kg of crop is harvested from one tree. The variety is frost-resistant and can tolerate temperatures down to -30 degrees. The tree grows up to 2 m in height and begins to bear fruit in the third season of life. The variety has high immunity against diseases and pests.

Gold

Sometimes it is simply called Gold. The variety is famous for its early ripening - in the last days of July. Its other advantages are self-fertility and frost resistance (down to -35 degrees below zero). The tree grows to a height of 2.2-2.5 m. It produces a harvest of up to 8-10 kg per plant. The flowering period begins in April and lasts 2 weeks.

The fruits are slightly oblong in shape, weighing 50-55 g. The skin is almost smooth, yellow in color, with blurry pink and scarlet spots. The pulp is orange, juicy, with a pleasant taste and aroma.

This variety loves sunny and warm places, but does not tolerate areas with too moist soil; its roots easily rot.

Sunny

This variety is characterized by extended fruiting periods - the fruits ripen throughout August. The variety grows well in lightly shaded areas, but in full shade its yield and taste suffer. It has high frost resistance and easily tolerates frosts of -32-35 degrees.

The fruits have a bright orange skin, suede-like to the touch and with a bright blush on the sunflower side. The pulp is sweet and juicy, the weight of one fruit is 40-60 g, 15-17 kg of apricots are obtained from one tree.

This variety is not self-fertile, so next to it you need to plant 2-3 more apricot trees, which will bloom in the same period - in the second ten days of April.

Self-fertile apricot varieties

Self-fertility, or the ability to self-pollinate, is a very important quality of apricots, especially for cultivation in the northern regions. Apricot blooms quite early (late April - early May), and most insects that pollinate the plants are inactive at this time.

Among the many varieties of apricots, there are both self-fertile and self-sterile. Self-fertile varieties include:

• Pineapple.
• Hardy.
• Dessert.
• Red-cheeked.
• Lel.
• Melitopol early.
• Rattle.
• Sardonyx.
• Snowfinch.
• Northern Triumph.
• Tsarsky.

Self-fertile plants do not pollinate 100% of their flowers. It must be remembered that the presence of pollinating neighbors in such trees can increase the yield by 2–3 times.

Landing

1. If the seedlings were purchased with closed roots, then 2 hours before planting they must be watered, and then carefully remove the seedling from the container along with the earthen lump.
2. If the seedlings have bare roots, then about 24 hours before planting, soak the roots in a solution of any growth stimulant. Next, you should inspect the roots, remove rotten and damaged ones, and soak them in a clay mash.
3. The substrate at the bottom of the pit is moistened before planting, and the seedling is placed in the center of the pit. If the roots were in a coma of earth, then dig a hole in the center of the mound and place the seedling in it. If the roots were open, then place the seedling on a mound in the hole and straighten the roots.
4. Cover the seedling with soil layer by layer, compacting the soil each time so that there are no air voids left. The root collar should be 5-7 cm above the ground surface.
5. A circular groove is formed at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk. Water the seedling with lukewarm, settled water, 22-27 liters per tree.
6. After about half an hour, mulch the root zone with peat chips, fresh hay, and humus. Tie the seedling to a peg.

Landing technology

Northern Triumph seedlings are best purchased from a nursery, since growing from seed is too troublesome and a long process. In cold regions, planting should be carried out in April, before sap flow begins. In the southern regions, autumn planting is allowed.

Important! The root collar should always be open and dry; it should not be closed when loosening, mulched, or allow water to stagnate around the trunk when snow melts or after rainstorms.

In the selected area, a mound 30–50 cm high and 1.5–2 m in diameter is poured from a mixture of turf soil, compost, humus and sand in equal parts. Peat and manure are not added. The surface of the mound is compacted and a hole is made in the center with a diameter of 60–70 cm and a depth of 50–70 cm. The hole is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water, a seedling is placed in the center and the roots are straightened. Watering them periodically, cover them with soil mixture. The root collar of the apricot should be above the ground level.

The slopes of the mound are compacted and leveled, and for strengthening they are sometimes sown with perennial grass. If there are several seedlings, they are placed at a distance of at least 5 m from each other

Characteristics

Variety "Prince Mart"

"Prince Mart" is a variety most suitable for growing in northern conditions. Has positive reviews.

1. Winter hardiness is one of the main criteria for choosing plants for planting in Russian conditions. According to this criterion, “Prince Mart” is rated highly: it can withstand temperatures down to -35OC.
2. The variety shows excellent resistance to infections and diseases.
3. With proper care, the first harvests can be harvested already in the second year after planting. The harvest ripens in August. The fruits are orange in color with a beautiful blush on the sunny side. Average weight is from 30 to 60 g. The seeds are easily separated.
4. “Prince Mart” is a short tree up to 2 m. Due to its relative unpretentiousness, the variety is recommended for growing by beginning gardeners.

Variety "Star"

“Zvezdny” is the second popular variety of columnar apricot in Russia and Ukraine. Its characteristics are not inferior to the Prince Mart variety.

1. High resistance to frost (up to -30°C) and various types of diseases.
2. Fruiting begins in the third year after planting.
3. The trait that makes 'Star' special is the size of its fruit. They are very large, their average weight is from 40 to 100 g. The skin is painted bright yellow. The pulp is aromatic and juicy. The fruits benefit from their taste and versatility of use.
4. Needs good and proper care.

Characteristics of apricot varieties

The classification of apricot varieties is rather arbitrary. However, they are divided according to several criteria. The following groups are distinguished by height and type of tree:

• short (up to 3 m);
• medium height (3–6 m);
• tall (over 6 m);
• columnar.

Apricots are also classified into several groups according to their ripening time:

• early (late June – early July);
• mid-early (July 05–15);
• mid-late (July 15–25);
• later (later July 25).

It should be noted that the classification of apricots according to ripening dates may not be the same in different regions. The same variety, depending on weather conditions, will bear fruit either earlier or later. For example, in Central Asia, apricots ripen almost a month earlier than the same varieties in Crimea.

According to the purpose of the fruit, all varieties of apricots are divided into the following:

• canteens;
• canning;
• universal;
• drying

Table varieties have low shelf life and are consumed mainly fresh. Canned varieties are more suitable than others for industrial processing, for example, for making juice, apricots in their own juice or jam. Drying varieties have increased sugar content and are used mainly for the production of dried apricots. Universal varieties can be used for any purpose.

Apricots do not have a clear classification based on the color and size of the fruit. Their color can vary from almost white to almost black. However, most varieties have bright yellow or orange fruit. The size of the fruit depends not only on the variety, but also on proper agricultural technology, weather conditions, etc. The standard division of apricot varieties by fruit size is as follows:

• very small (up to 10 g);
• small (10–20 g);
• medium (20–30 g);
• above average (31–40 g);
• large (41–60 g);
• very large (over 60 g).

Apricot is a southern plant, so the concept of frost resistance appeared only after the development of varieties suitable for cultivation in more northern regions. In the wild, there are such frost-resistant species as Manchurian apricot and Siberian apricot, and they have become the basis for the selection of cold-resistant varieties.

Columnar or regular?

Columnar fruit trees invariably attract increased attention from summer residents. Moreover, their owners never tire of listing the advantages of their pets. But one of the readers looked at the “columns” with criticism, and not unverbally.

It’s good that readers in the magazine started talking about columnar trees. The only bad thing is that there are too few such letters, because the topic is very interesting and... debatable. I remembered my enthusiasm ten years ago, when I first learned about such trees and considered this idea a life-saving find for my acres. As a careful gardener, I have collected detailed information on how to plant a garden of columnar apple trees, how to care for them and how to get really high yields of beautiful, large and tasty fruits!

By the way, it was no coincidence that I decided to start with apple trees: they bear fruit quickly, and in the new “design” they do not shade the garden, and all the work associated with caring for them can be done while standing on the ground, without having to deal with any stepladders. In general, I did not have the slightest doubt about the prospects and profitability of such an enterprise. And the desire to get down to business was so strong that I couldn’t sit still.

How to start processing young apricot plants

Pruning of a young apricot initially begins with the formation of correct growth. This is done only with healthy vegetation, which has grown by 40 centimeters over the summer period. Having planted the crop in open ground, exactly one year later the overgrown canes are removed by almost a quarter.

Apricot pruning scheme by year

Then, after another year, several large branches are formed on the tree, which are processed immediately with the onset of autumn, giving the crop the opportunity to lay new buds. It should be remembered that the procedure is not carried out in early spring, as this has a detrimental effect on the quality of the crop.

Already in the third year, the developing plant has a shape similar to a ball. Too long, rapidly growing shoots often protrude from the leaf mass. All excess unevenly growing vegetation is removed. They create exactly the same conditions for each sprout, increasing the formation of large buds and the proper supply of nutrients.

Four years later and beyond, the stem shoots are regularly treated and combated with too rapid growth. To obtain high-quality high yields, the plant is provided with the most correct, uniform nutrition. Fruiting branches are removed every few years, thereby renewing the plant crop.

Preparing for landing

In the southern regions and subtropics, columnar apricot can be planted in spring and autumn. In the northern regions, planting is carried out only in spring. Preparations for spring planting begin in the fall:

• Seedlings should not be purchased secondhand, only in nurseries and specialized stores. It is better if the seedlings are two years old; they must be carefully examined and healthy trees, 1-1.2 m high, with developed roots and a noticeable grafting site, must be selected.
• Dig a landing hole measuring 50*50*50. A drainage layer 4-5 cm thick is laid on the bottom. Crushed stone, pebbles, expanded clay, and fragments of clay shards are suitable as drainage materials.
• The top layer of soil 15-20 cm thick is mixed with an equal volume of humus or rotted compost, and half the amount of coarse river sand is added. If the soil is acidic, then add dolomite flour, slaked lime or crushed chicken egg shells. 100 g of urea, 80 g of saltpeter, 150 g of superphosphate are added there per pit. You can replace mineral fertilizers with wood ash (1.2-2 l).
• The prepared soil mixture is poured into the bottom of the hole in the form of a mound, and a peg is hammered in at a short distance from the top to support the seedling. Cover the hole with roofing felt and leave it like that until spring.

Planting in spring

Before planting a plant, a hole is prepared for it in the fall. Recommended dimensions: 80 x 80 centimeters. We recommend using crushed stone as drainage. The soil from the hole is mixed with peat, 2 kg of wood ash and 500 g of superphosphate are added. A peg is driven in so that it rises 50-60 centimeters above the ground. The earth mixture is returned to its place and left until spring.

What seedlings to take so that growth and fruiting are stable and the plant is well established? For planting, take seedlings 1 year old. Firstly, the crown of such a tree is easy to shape - pruning an apricot is not difficult. Secondly, the survival rate is very high. It is better to buy high-quality varietal seedlings (for example, the same Phelps apricot) in special nurseries or stores - they can sell “wild” ones on the market. Give preference to a tree with thick annual branches without thorns and a strong root system. The apricot must be grafted - there is usually a thorn at its base.

Apricot is a fruit that is planted as follows:

• Dig a hole in a pit prepared in the fall.
• Remove all dry roots from the plant’s root system and shorten healthy ones.
• Immerse in a mixture of clay and mullein and place in the recess. The root neck should rise 5 cm.
• Bury and compact, water with two buckets of water.
• Tie it to a peg installed in the fall.

Growing

Proper watering, processing, fertilizing and pruning are the main elements of caring for any variety of columnar apricot.

1. Waterlogging or lack of moisture are the main causes of many apricot diseases. The first mistake leads to root rot, the second to shredding of the fruit. Typically, plants are watered once every 2 weeks. During the rainy season, the amount of watering is reduced and increased during drought. Watering is carried out by drip method or surface along grooves.
2. Fertilizing allows trees to grow better, bear fruit more abundantly and improve disease resistance. Plants especially need mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
3. Prince March and other columnar apricots require regular pruning. Always remove damaged branches, as well as branches leaning close to the ground. The side branches are pruned by 5–10 cm and excess shoots that thicken are cut out. Thinning shoots improves the appearance of the tree and its productivity.

Columnar apricots (such as Prince March) require regular pruning

Features of growing the variety

In general, apricots of the Success variety are grown in compliance with standard rules of agricultural technology for this crop. Therefore, we list and describe them briefly.

Apricot planting Success

An important point is choosing a suitable place for planting and growing a tree. If favorable conditions are created for Success, it will not be difficult to grow it. Apricots will grow best on a small sunny slope facing south or southwest. From the north or northeast, it is desirable to have protection from cold winds in the form of dense trees, a fence or the wall of a house. Apricots should be planted at some distance from the shelter so that the tree does not end up in deep shade. Apricot is undemanding to soil composition - will grow on any soil

It is important that they are loose and well-drained, and there should be no stagnation or accumulation of moisture at the planting site, since apricot has a tendency to dampen the roots and trunk

Seedlings for planting are purchased in the fall, stored buried in the ground or in the basement, and planted in early spring before the onset of sap flow in a planting hole prepared in the fall. It contains a nutrient mixture of chernozem, humus, peat and sand, taken in equal parts. They also add 300–400 grams of superphosphate and 3–5 liters of wood ash.

Watering and fertilizing

As a rule, the first watering is carried out during flowering, the second - during the growth of fruits and shoots, and the third - after harvesting. In October, pre-winter moisture-charging irrigation is carried out. The amount of water should ensure that the soil around the tree trunk is moistened to a depth of 30–40 centimeters. Young trees may require more frequent watering, since their root system is not yet sufficiently developed. Then the soil needs to be loosened and mulched.

Apricots are watered rarely, but abundantly.

After harvesting the first harvest, when the food from the planting hole has already been largely consumed, regular feeding begins.

Table: apricot feeding

Pruning apricot varieties Success

Since the Success apricot is low-growing, the “bowl” shape is better suited for its crown. It provides good illumination and ventilation of the crown, as well as ease of tree care and harvesting. The procedure for creating a crown is as follows:

1. When planting a seedling, its central conductor is cut to a height of 60–80 centimeters, and the branches are shortened by half.
2. After one or two years, in early spring before the onset of sap flow, 3–4 branches are selected, which should be located at a distance of 15–20 centimeters from each other and grow in different directions. These are future skeletal branches and should be cut back by 30–40%.
3. The remaining branches are cut into a ring.
4. When another one or two years have passed, two second-order branches are formed on the skeletal branches. They are chosen so that the distance between them is 50–60 centimeters. Selected branches are cut in half, and all others are cut into a ring.
5. In subsequent years, care is taken to ensure that the branches remain equal in importance and that none of them takes on the role of a central conductor.

Due to the weak shoot formation of the apricot tree of the Success variety, the growth and branching of shoots should be stimulated by chasing young branches in summer. It consists of shortening the branches by 10–15 centimeters. And also, due to this feature, it is unlikely that the gardener will have to thin out the crown. But sanitary pruning needs to be done. It is carried out in late autumn by cutting out dry, diseased and damaged branches. It is possible that sometimes this operation will also have to be performed in early spring, if during the winter any branches freeze or are broken under the weight of snow.

Varietal assortment

Since the columnar apricot appeared in mid-latitudes relatively recently, the assortment is not very rich, but there are species that have already become widespread. Let's consider the best varieties that are suitable for cultivation in the Moscow region.

"Star"

It has qualities important for the middle zone - frost resistance and average ripening time. Withstands winter temperatures down to -30°C. The fruits ripen in mid-August. The variety is productive and large-fruited. Golden yellow apricots can grow weighing up to 80–100 grams and have a pleasant taste and aroma.

“Star” is a self-fertile variety and does not require pollinators. With proper care, it can begin to bear fruit already in the second year after planting. Resistant to diseases, rarely affected by pests.

"Prince Mart"

One of the most popular varieties of columnar apricots. Winter-hardy, can withstand even 35-degree frost. Mid-season, the harvest can be harvested in the second half of August.

The tree of this variety is very compact, growing no higher than 2 meters, which is very convenient when caring for and collecting fruits. The variety is self-pollinating and has stable, good yields. Orange fruits with a side that is browned on the illuminated side usually grow to 40–60 grams. Apricots are very juicy and have a pleasant sweet and sour taste.

Fruiting usually begins in the third year after planting, but with careful care it is possible to get a harvest in the second year. The variety is reliable, resistant to diseases and pests.

The best varieties of apricots for the Moscow region that do not require a pollinator

Self-fertile varieties require pollination. When choosing an apricot, you should take this into account. If you plan to plant 2-3 types of trees, it is better to purchase self-fertile varieties. We’ll find out which ones exactly from the first nomination.

Triumph Northern

The rating opens with a popular variety that exhibits self-fertility. It is widespread in the Central Black Earth region and feels great in the middle zone. Triumph Northern is not afraid of long winters, unexpected frosts, or extreme heat. However, it needs special care. The oval fruits weigh up to 60 g. They are distinguished by their orange color and reddish blush. The tender flesh is very sweet and juicy. This is the best option for fresh consumption. The tree has a wide crown with large leaves. It lives for about 25 years.

The advantages include the earlier onset of fruiting, survivability at low temperatures, and the chic appearance of the tree during flowering. Some gardeners consider Triumph Northern unsuitable for conservation. However, the opinions of summer residents differ in this regard. Therefore, the variety has no disadvantages as such. For a seedling you need to pay about 430 rubles.

Advantages

• invulnerability to diseases;
• beautiful appearance;
• availability of seedlings;
• many good reviews;
• rapid onset of fruiting.

Flaws

Juicy Honey

The sweet variety is praised for its generous yield and good tolerance of frost and heat. When it comes to Juicy's care, Honey is not particularly fussy. The tree is slightly susceptible to chlorosis, coccomycosis, and hole spot. The variety is drought tolerant. Reviews from summer residents prove its excellent endurance. The weight of the fruit exceeds 65 g. Children will especially like its taste. Compotes and jam turn out very sweet. Jusi Hani fruits are great for making dried apricots.

The harvest is harvested in the second half of July. The fruits are practically not damaged during transportation and are perfectly stored for 7 days. Apricots make delicious pie fillings.

Advantages

• high degree of productivity;
• tolerates frost well;
• low predisposition to illnesses;
• drought resistance;
• large fruits;
• versatility.

Flaws

• not detected.

Alyosha

The relatively new early ripening variety Alyosha is particularly decorative. The tree forms a crown in the form of a ball. The round fruits are slightly flattened on both sides. They have a bright yellow color, red specks, and light fluff. The average weight is 0.02 kg. The dense pulp has a sour taste. The large bone separates well from it.

The advantages of apricot include good storage and sufficient winter hardiness. After frost, the tree recovers without problems. Alyosha is easy to care for, but needs regular treatment for diseases. It is prone to shedding.

Advantages

• adapts well to the environment;
• stored without loss;
• acceptable winter hardiness;
• unpretentiousness.

Flaws

• small apricots;
• prone to shedding.

Dessert

Next in the ranking is a fairly well-known variety of French origin. It is quite common in the middle zone. The tall tree grows up to five meters in height and has a dense round crown. It produces “sunny” fruits weighing up to 0.04 kg. Their flesh is particularly tender and fragrant. It has a pleasant sourness and light yellow color. The thin skin has a slight fluff.

They praise the transportability of apricots and good winter hardiness. It upsets the defeat of moniliosis, severe cracking of fruits at high humidity.

Advantages

• excellent taste;
• high transportability;
• universal variety.

Flaws

• risk of contracting moniliosis;
• cracking of fruits during frequent rains.

Kompotny

The nomination is completed by a stable and productive variety, in the production of which Triumph Northern was used. The vigorous crop has a compact crown and is a late-ripening crop. The yellow fruits have a bright coral hue. Their weight reaches 0.045 kg. The flesh is elastic and crispy. It has a sweet and sour taste. The variety is excellent for making compotes. The fruits retain their appearance and do not fall apart.

The variety is valued for its low risk of flowers freezing, rare disease damage and lack of heating. This is an excellent option for the Moscow region, the Black Earth Region and the Volga region. The disadvantages include fruits of miniature size and not the highest rating of taste.

Advantages

• compact crown;
• low risk of freezing;
• is not affected by clasterosporiasis and chlorosis.

Flaws

• average taste;
• small fruits.

What are the different types of apricot pruning?

Types of fruit crop pruning

There are several different types of pruning for this fruit crop:

• Formative,
• Regulatory,
• Rejuvenating,
• Sanitary,
• Restorative.

Formative

Starting from the age of two years, a young tree must undergo formative pruning. The main goal of this work is to give the crown the correct shape and stimulate the growth of the required volume of side branches. It is through formative pruning that it is possible to ensure early fruiting of trees.

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When forming the crown, we recommend practicing a sparsely tiered form. This pruning method implies the presence of 5-7 large branches of the first order, which are located from each other at a distance of 30 - 40 centimeters.

They begin pruning from the lower branches, which are shortened by half, and the next year only 20-30 centimeters are left from the branch. At a height of 40-50 centimeters, the second order of branching is formed. To do this, the side branches are shortened by one third of the length.

Unnecessary annual branches on the central trunk must be shortened by half their length. It is recommended to cut the main conductor above the last growing branch. The latter allows you to activate the growth of the tree in width, while reducing its height.

With the correct formation of the apricot crown, the tree begins to grow powerful side branches, which become a full-fledged branch of the main trunk. As a result, we get a powerful branched tree, with numerous lateral shoots of the third order, which bears fruit well.

Regulatory

When regulating pruning, which is carried out starting from 5-7 years of age, it is necessary to shorten some of the side branches, trim the top and remove the tops that appear. Such regulating pruning of apricot does not present any difficulty and only involves maintaining the correct shape of the tree crown. Note that if formative, correct pruning of apricot is performed exclusively in early spring, then regulatory and sanitary pruning can be performed in the fall.

What you need to know about planting varieties

"Prince" is usually planted in winter or early spring. In regions with a mild climate, planting in the autumn season is acceptable. Other important aspects of growing the Prince March variety will be discussed later in the review.

How to choose a place to plant Prince March apricots

Successfully establishing young fruit trees in your garden must begin with choosing the right planting site. You need to make sure that you are creating a quality foundation for the future plant.

Apricots bloom in early spring. And since late spring frosts are a problem for the tree, “Prince” is not recommended to be planted at higher elevations. Frost can kill flowers on a tree and almost completely deprive you of your harvest.

In addition, if you plant an apricot in the fall, then winter can be a tough test for the plant. Low temperatures can seriously damage wood.

Plant the tree at a distance of 15 cm from the wall or fence. Avoid areas where eggplants, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, raspberries and strawberries have previously been grown. All of these crops can spread Verticillium wilt.

Apricot also requires a lot of heat during the summer season. When planting apricots, choose a sunny location.

Preparing the planting hole

The planting hole should be of such a size that the roots fit freely in it. The hole should not only be deep, but also wide enough to accommodate the root system even when spread out. Collect the excavated layer of earth into a separate pile.

While you are preparing the hole, you need to take care to protect the roots from drying out. Soak the rhizome for 1 or 2 hours in a bathtub or large tank of water. Deep soaking in a solution with fertilizers is also recommended. This effective starting fertilizer will help the tree grow quickly and vigorously.

Planting scheme for the Prince March variety

Planting work is carried out in the following order:

1. First of all, prepare the soil. For good apricot growth, fertile loamy soil rich in phosphorus and potassium fertilizers is required. Also check the acidity of the soil. Apricots prefer slightly alkaline soil (pH ranging from 6.0–8.0).
2. Plant trees about 7 m apart.
3. Place the tree in the planting hole, carefully exposing the roots.
4. Fill the hole with soil, avoiding the formation of air pockets. Try to thoroughly compact the soil around the roots.
5. Create a kind of rim of soil around the planting hole (above ground level). This will allow the water to stand and be absorbed.

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After 3–4 years from the moment of planting, the apricot tree begins to bear fruit. Be careful when picking the fruits so as not to damage their skin and soft structure.

Goals and objectives of pruning

Apricot pruning is a complex undertaking that solves several problems. Its goals are the following:

1. Formation of the crown; without pruning it will grow greatly.
2. Without pruning, the inner branches of the apricot tree quickly age and die.
3. Abnormal growth of shoots leads to the fact that the fruits become small. Pruning allows you to get a better harvest.
4. An abundance of apricots on an unpruned tree can lead to numerous branches breaking under the weight of the ripening fruit. Pruning normalizes yield.

In addition, it helps to rejuvenate and extend the overall life of the tree.

There are several types of apricot pruning. They arise from the tasks that are set before carrying out this event, and they are as follows:

• sanitary;
• restorative;
• regulating (standardizing);
• health;
• rejuvenating.

Each of these types serves a specific purpose.

Regulating pruning of apricot

Normalizing or regulatory pruning is carried out with the aim of artificially limiting the yield. The apricot fertilizes all the flowers, and without such a procedure the tree will very quickly become depleted. Rationing the harvest allows it to preserve its strength, while increasing not only the mass and quality of the fruit, but also the years of productive life.

Rejuvenating apricot pruning

This type of pruning is used for old trees. It allows you to stimulate the development of new shoots on which the harvest will be formed. In fact, rejuvenating pruning gives the tree a second youth.

Formative pruning of apricot in spring

Formative pruning allows you to make the crown of the tree such that all fruit branches have enough light. This is of great importance for culture. Typically, pruning and shaping the apricot crown is done according to one of two types:

• sparsely-tiered;
• without tier (cup-shaped).

It is necessary to form the desired crown configuration from the first year of planting apricots. When the length of young shoots exceeds 0.4 m, you can start pruning.

The sparse-tiered method consists of forming a crown of 5–7 skeletal branches located at a distance of 30–40 cm from each other. Pruning is carried out as follows:

1. In the first year, a quarter of the shoot is removed. In this case, you need to leave the two main branches at a distance of approximately 0.3 m from each other. The rest are removed under the ring. After this, the branches are trimmed so that their end is 0.3 m below the top of the cane.
2. The following autumn, the same procedure is performed with other side shoots. In this case, the ends of the branches should be cut at a height of 0.4 m below the top of the main conductor.
3. In subsequent years, this distance increases by another 15 cm.
4. The branches that reappear on the central conductor are generatrix. Therefore, shoots over 0.6 m are cut in half; short ones do not need to be touched. The branch that has grown above the whip is left, but the whip is cut out completely.

Weak side shoots with at least 10 leaves can be pinched until they assume a horizontal position. Over time, they too will become part of the fruiting crown.

The flattened (cup-shaped) crown shape is used less frequently. In this case, 7 skeletal branches are left at a convenient distance. In this case, fruiting occurs earlier, but the quality of the crop deteriorates.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is done twice per season. The first time it is done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. The second sanitary cleaning is done in the fall, after the leaves fall. During sanitary pruning, dried and broken branches are removed. At the same time, the shoots are inspected for infection with fungal diseases, and the affected areas are also removed.

When to prune an apricot: in spring or autumn

The crop is pruned both in spring and autumn. In addition to this, there is also summer pruning, the so-called chasing.

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Apricot pruning in spring

Spring pruning of apricots is done before the juices begin to flow, usually this is the period from the end of March to the beginning of April. In addition to sanitary, formative and supportive is done.

Apricot pruning in spring, the diagram and procedure are presented in the video.

Video about pruning apricots in spring for beginners.

Summer pruning of apricot

Apricot pruning in summer is done in early June in order to rejuvenate the tree and increase the quality of the harvest. It consists of two stages:

1. The branches of this year of life are shortened, leaving 20–30 cm.
2. After 15–20 days, 2–3 of the strongest shoots are selected from the resulting young shoots, all others are cut out.

As you can see, there is no specific pattern for pruning apricots in summer. It is produced once every 3–4 years and stimulates the tree to increase productivity.

How to prune an apricot in the fall

Apricot pruning in autumn is done in mid-October. At this time, broken and damaged parts of the crown are removed, and the imbalance between fruit and leaf branches is corrected. The scheme for pruning apricots in autumn is very simple: all fruit shoots, with the exception of skeletal shoots, are cut off by a third. Work with large branches is postponed until spring. For beginners, pruning apricots in the fall can be reduced only to sanitary matters.

Tools and materials

For work you will need the following tools and materials:

• stepladder - for working on the upper tier of the crown;
• garden pruning shears - for thin shoots;
• lopper for larger branches;
• hand saw (hacksaw) - for thick trunks;
• garden knife - for stripping and processing the cut;
• copper sulfate - for disinfection of instruments and wound surfaces;
• garden varnish - for final processing of the cut site.

Choosing the time for pruning apricot

Most gardeners agree that the best time to prune apricots is early spring. This agrotechnical procedure must be performed after the temperature rises, but before the first leaves appear on the tree.

Remember that the tree must be in a state of sleep during pruning. This will ensure minimal damage to the fruit crop, and subsequently such cut apricot will quickly begin to grow in the spring and begin to increase green mass.

As mentioned above, it is possible to carry out full pruning of apricots in the fall. This work is done after the harvest and complete fall of the leaves. Just remember that you should not delay this work. Frosts can adversely affect non-healing wounds on the shoot and trunk, which will lead to weakening of the fruit crop, even to its death.

There is currently no consensus among gardeners whether it is worth pruning in winter. In winter, trees are in a state of sleep, which theoretically allows this procedure to be carried out. However, a sharp cold snap after such rough winter pruning can lead to the death of trees.

That is why most gardeners do not recommend doing this work in winter. If, for some specific reason, you need to trim apricots in the winter, then immediately after completing this work, all cuts should be treated with garden varnish. Such pruning is prohibited at temperatures below 10 degrees.

You can prune apricots in the summer, which allows you to significantly increase the yield of trees next year. You just need to remember that immediately after completing this work, it is necessary to provide the tree with intensive watering for several weeks.

Summer pruning is recommended to be done in early June, once every three years. The results of the work carried out are maintained for three years, after which a slight decrease in yield indicators is noted.

Agrotechnics of cultivation

If you decide to grow an apricot on your plot, you will have to be puzzled by such questions as choosing a suitable place and in what soil the apricot prefers to grow. when and how to plant, what further care will be. So, let's start with choosing a landing site.

Selecting a location

In order for the apricot to grow well and delight you with the harvest, you should be puzzled by choosing a place in your garden for planting it. Although apricot is recommended to be grown in the southern regions of the Moscow region, the local microclimate of the site is of decisive importance here. If it is suitable, then apricot can be grown in northern directions. The selected site must meet the following requirements:

1. Have protection from cold winds.

2. Not located in lowlands and on northern slopes.

3. The best location is the western and southern slopes.

The soil. Apricots grow well in light, varied soils, through which water and air easily penetrate, with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. On dense clay, plants develop poorly and the fruits are small.

When to plant? is a question many gardeners ask.

A good time to transplant all stone fruits is early spring, April. Planting in May, when the leaves have already begun to bloom, may not be successful. You can plant apricots in the fall: in September and even in late October - early November. In the case of September planting, the number of leaves should be reduced and long shoots should be trimmed.

Landing

Planting apricots correctly
When planting an apricot tree, they try to make a larger hole so that the roots of the plant are in good conditions in the first years. In the planting pit, sand, peat, clay are mixed in equal parts, dolomite flour or lime and a small amount of compost or old manure are added.

Planting scheme

When planting, make sure that the roots are straightened and not bent, and that the root collar, after filling the hole with soil, is 2-4 cm above the soil layer, and subsequently, when the soil settles, it should be at soil level. Under no circumstances should you fall asleep.

Having finished planting, the seedling can be tied to a post and watered abundantly.