How to grow a garden of dwarf fruit trees: in containers or in the ground

Columnar apple trees cultivated in the Moscow region

Dwarf apple trees are low trees with a spreading crown reaching 3 m in diameter.
Apple trees on a semi-dwarf rootstock are slightly taller than dwarfs. And columnar apple trees have a trunk on which short side branches grow. The tree trunk is like a column with apples growing on top and along it.

To avoid confusing a dwarf apple tree with a columnar apple tree when purchasing, remember that:

• A columnar tree has one trunk, without a crown;
• The dwarf apple tree has fibrous roots, while the columnar apple tree has rod-shaped roots.

Types of root systems.

Columnar varieties are suitable for this region:

The sweetest variety of columnar apple tree is Arbat. The Moscow Necklace variety is immune to scab and is also considered winter-hardy. The President variety is also very winter-hardy. And the Vasyugan variety can be planted even in Siberia.

Summer

The president

The tree is 2-3 m in height, and its width is up to 20 cm. Its winter hardiness is similar to the Antonovka variety.

The fruits themselves are large, weighing 140-250 g. They are whitish-yellow in color, turnip-shaped, and on the side that was facing the sun there is a bright blush. The pulp is sweet and sour. You can remove 5-6 kg from a tree, and with proper care you can collect up to 16 kg. Fruits cannot be stored for more than 45 days, they will spoil.

More information about the President apple tree variety in this article.

Autumn

Nectar

This is an early autumn variety, the fruits are harvested in early September. The fruits have a golden hue. The pulp is snow-white, sweet, honey-like, with a slight sourness. The fruits are large and medium-sized, weighing 100-250 g. The trees do not freeze at a temperature of -40 °C. True, for the winter the trunk is tied with polyethylene so that it is not damaged by rodents.

You can read more about the Medoc variety here.

Vasyugan

Trees are up to 5 m high. They are very frost-resistant, they can be planted not only in the Moscow region, but also in Siberia. The trees bear fruit for 1 year, although only 6-7 fruits ripen on the tree. They are large, their weight is 200 g.

The main color is greenish. The cover color is scarlet over almost the entire surface. The pulp is juicy, with a slight aroma, and has both sweetness and acidity.

When the apple tree grows, you can harvest 6-8 kg from it. This is done at the end of August.

Read more about the Vasyugan apple tree here.

The trees are very compact, up to 2 m in height. They have bright scarlet large fruits, their weight is 120-200 g, they are harvested in September. The pulp is loose, juicy, and has an amazing dessert taste.

The harvest is already harvested for the 2nd year. In the 5th year of growth, up to 12 kg of fruit can be collected from one tree.

Titania

The apples are scarlet, medium-sized, their weight is 110 g. The pulp is snow-white, has a sweet wine taste. The tree begins to bear fruit in 2-3 years.

If the apple tree freezes in winter, it will easily grow leaves and branches in the spring.

Winter

Moscow necklace

Fruits begin to set on trees in the 3rd year. The apple tree is resistant to scab and has excellent winter hardiness.

Apples are harvested from mid-October. The fruits are large, weighing up to 120-140 g, have an excellent presentation, and are burgundy-red in color. The pulp is juicy, pinkish in color, sweet and sour. The fruits can be stored for 6 months. It is very good to squeeze juice out of apples.

This variety does not grow long branches, which is why the apple tree does not need pruning. The tree is 2-3 m in height.

You can read more about the Moscow Necklace variety here.

Arbat

This is a columnar dwarf apple tree. Its productivity is high.

She has medium-sized apples, their weight is 110-120 g. They are flattened-round in shape. They have a bright burgundy color, the fruits are very beautiful. The pulp is light cream, very sweet.

Read more about the Arbat apple tree here.

Bolero

The apples are green, large, weighing 200 g, the flesh is snow-white, quite juicy, breaks off into pieces when bitten, and is not loose. The fruits are harvested from September 25.

Variety Candy

It is no coincidence that the early variety Candy bears this name, because its fruits are very sweet and aromatic. Among the early ones, these apples are rightfully considered one of the most delicious. The variety owes its appearance to one of Ivan Michurin’s talented students - breeder Sergei Isaev, who obtained it from the Korobova and Papirovka varieties.

The tree is unpretentious in care, frost-resistant and has a unique ability to recover. The Candy apple tree begins to bear fruit in the 3rd-4th year and produces a harvest of up to 100 kg of yellow fruits with a dark orange or red blush.

Small apples (maximum weight up to 150 g) ripen at the end of July, have juicy, dense pulp and a specific honey aroma. However, they cannot be stored for a long time: under normal conditions - two to three weeks, and in the refrigerator - up to a month.

How to choose a variety

The first question that arises for a novice gardener is: “Which varieties of apple trees are dwarf and which are not?” And here a detailed explanation is needed.

The fact is that absolutely any variety of apple can be grown on a dwarf rootstock. That is, having a special rootstock, the gardener grafts his favorite variety onto it, and enjoys the taste of the fruit and the small dimensions of the tree itself.

At the same time, in modern breeding there are already about ten thousand dwarf varieties of apple trees, which, when planted by the root method, will not grow more than one or two or three meters (the height depends on the variety).

Those who have no experience in grafting usually purchase varietal or natural dwarfs. Experienced gardeners can easily plant a special dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock, and then graft any apple tree onto it.

Varietal "dwarfs"

The description of varieties of natural dwarf apple trees should begin with their classification. Like all other crops, they are divided according to the timing of apple ripening: early ripening (summer), mid-ripening (autumn) and late ripening (winter).

Among them there are sweet varieties of dwarf apple trees, sweet and sour, sour - that is, the taste of the fruit has the same classification as that of ordinary tall apple trees.

One of the most productive dwarf varieties. This apple tree usually grows no more than three meters in height. The apples themselves are round, slightly elongated, colored green, with blush visible on one side. The fruits are medium in size, weighing 200-250 grams.

Melba is a summer variety; apples ripen in early August. Their flesh is juicy, tender, and very tasty. The fruits can be stored for a maximum of three months.

The winter hardiness of the dwarf apple tree is average; it is better to insulate the roots. The yield is up to 40 kg per plant.

The “dwarf”, common in Russia, grows to a maximum of 280 cm. The fruits weigh about 150 grams, are yellow, round, with noticeable ribbing and a crimson blush. The taste of apples is sweet and sour, the flesh is fine-grained and juicy.

The dwarf apple tree bears fruit in late summer - early autumn. Apples of the Wonderful variety are stored for about two months. From each tree you can collect up to 75 kg of fruit.

The dwarf variety has very good resistance to scab and tolerates severe frosts without shelter.

Zhigulevskoe

This dwarf variety is an autumn apple tree with good yield. The tree grows up to two to three meters and can produce about 120 kg of apples per season.

The fruits are round, colored coral-red, and quite large - the average weight is 230 grams. The pulp is juicy, coarse-grained, tender, and tastes sweet and sour. The fruits are stored for about six months.

The Zhigulevsky apple has good resistance to pests, diseases, and frost.

Short name for "Brother Wonderful", another natural (or natural) "dwarf". This dwarf apple tree is suitable for growing in any climate and on almost any soil. The crown of the tree is rounded and flat, it grows up to two meters.

The apples are medium-sized, greenish-yellow with a crimson blush. A distinctive feature of the fruit is a stripe-seam on the peel. The pulp is white, pleasant to the taste, not very juicy. But the Bratchud variety is very productive, the fruits tolerate transportation well and are suitable for storage.

An autumn variety of dwarf apple trees, the tree reaches a height of 1.5-2 meters, its crown is drooping. Kovrovoe begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year after planting.

The fruits are large, greenish-yellow, with a ruddy side. The pulp is cream-colored, not very juicy, pleasant to the taste, sweet and sour, aromatic. The harvest can be stored for up to two months.

The variety is very productive and tolerates frost well. In very snowy winters, the horizontally located lower branches of a dwarf apple tree may break off.

The variety is considered an early winter variety - the fruits ripen in early October. The crown of the dwarf apple tree is spherical, the height of the tree is a maximum of three meters. The shoots are short, heavily leafy.

The fruits are slightly ribbed, large, and have the shape of a truncated cone. When ripe, apples are red in color. The pulp is white, juicy, with a strong aroma and a very pleasant taste.

The dwarf variety Legend is resistant to diseases and pests and has good winter hardiness.

Moscow red

A very productive winter variety of dwarf apple trees. The tree is compact (maximum height is three meters), its crown has the shape of a ball.

The fruits are round, smooth, shiny. When ripe, the apples are colored a rich yellow color, with a red blush on the side of the apple. The taste is good, sweet and sour, the aroma is strong. Apples can be stored for up to four months.

The Moscow Red variety resists scab and other diseases very well - the leaves and fruits always look beautiful and healthy.

What types of dwarf trees are there?

The dwarf apple tree is especially popular among gardeners. As a result of breeding work, many varieties of low-growing apple trees were developed. All of them produce high yields and are distinguished by enviable resistance to diseases. In addition, the apple tree is practically the only tree species for which you can easily make a dwarf rootstock.

Dwarf apple tree in the garden

Dwarf pears are hardy fruit trees. They are not afraid of weather anomalies. Pears are famous for their resistance to disease and bear fruit well.

The dwarf Sweet Cup peach reaches a height of no more than 1.8 m. The fruits have white flesh and are pleasant to the taste. Resistant variety. It is not afraid of severe frosts, and it will not suffer from drought. Gives a stable and high yield.

The UFO peach is resistant to many diseases, drought and low temperatures. A very productive and hardy variety. The pulp of the fruits is yellow in color, they taste sweet with a barely noticeable sourness.

The dwarf plum "Blue Free" is frost-resistant, so the variety is suitable for growing in areas with cold climates. Resistant to diseases such as root canker and chlorosis. The oval, sweet-sour fruits are colored in an intense dark purple color, which is even closer to black, and have a waxy coating.

Plum "Chachakskaya" is characterized by late fruit ripening. It will be possible to enjoy plums only at the end of September. The variety is resistant to diseases and changing weather conditions.

The President plum tolerates even the harshest winters well. Sweet fruits with yellowish-green flesh are characterized by excellent quality, not sour. The variety is an unpretentious plant, so it is very easy to care for.

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Among the dwarf fruit trees that can be placed in the garden, apricots are also worth mentioning. For example, the very early variety Airlie Red Orange has large light orange fruits. They taste sweet, and may appear red in the sun. The harvest is well transported and can be used not only for personal consumption, but also for sale. Among this variety of plants there are also late apricots. For example, the Hardy variety. It is considered quite common. It tolerates frosty winters well and lack of watering in the hot season. Apricots are very sweet, the pulp is easily separated from the pit. The color is deep orange. Crimean Amur apricots are classified as mid-late varieties. It is distinguished by large fruits, some of them reach 90-100 grams. Sweet, but have a slight sourness. The variety is also distinguished by a strong pleasant aroma.

Why grow dwarf varieties in the middle zone

This part of Russia is characterized by an unstable climate. In winter, mild and warm weather alternates with severe frosts and winds. Therefore, many garden crops do not take root here well, and in the cold season they need special attention. Apple trees are no exception. The problem is solved by zoned and new varieties. Another way to get healthy apples from your plot all season long is through miniature varieties.

A low-growing apple tree is obtained by grafting a regular variety onto a dwarf rootstock. Such trees have a number of advantages over tall ones:

1. Compactness. They are 2-4 m in height and about 2 m in diameter. Therefore, they can fit even in a small corner of the garden.
2. Easy apple picking due to the size of the tree.
3. Annual harvest. In ordinary varieties, fruiting occurs once every 2 years.
4. The quality of the fruits is not inferior to apples from tall trees.
5. Easy winter care.

The relatively high yield of dwarf trees is due to the well-developed roots and abundant growth of young shoots. The root system, which nourishes the tree, is especially important. In low-growing breeds, it goes deep into the ground up to 1 m and grows up to 8 square meters. m.

Pests of dwarf apple trees

A dwarf apple tree can be harmed by such harmful insects as: apple-plantain aphids, apple sawflies, glass beetles, codling moths, moths, leaf roller moths, copperheads, comma scale insects, fruit striped moths, blue-headed cutworms, currant leaf rollers, rowan moths, moths peeled off . , oriental codling moth, apple flower beetle, topside fruit moth, brown fruit mite, hawthorn and hawthorn circle moth.

Almost all such harmful insects, in addition to apple trees, can also infect other garden crops, for example: plum, rowan, cherry, apricot, quince, pear, bird cherry, cherry, cherry plum. At the same time, they can spread from the affected plant to healthy specimens if the fight against them was not started in a timely manner. The main thing to remember is that the best protection for an apple tree on a dwarf rootstock from various pests is timely preventive treatments.

Spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases / When and how to treat trees in the spring

Apple tree formation

To grow a healthy and abundantly fruiting tree, you need to regularly carry out sanitary pruning, thanks to which the correct shape of the crown will be formed.

Pruning to form a crown

After planting, during the first year the seedling builds up its root system. Numerous studies have shown that in the first year the diameter of the root ball increases by approximately 35-40 cm, and the total length increases by 9-10 times.

In order for the branches to grow evenly in all directions, the upper conductor must be shortened by a quarter of the total length, thanks to which the growth of the lateral branches will be stimulated.

You should pay attention to the uniform growth of branches throughout the crown. From thickened areas you can bend branches to bare ones and fix them; in a few weeks or months the branch will remember the new direction of growth

Important! Pruning of mature trees consists only of thinning, as well as the removal of damaged, frozen and non-fruit-bearing branches. Fat shoots should be cut off as soon as possible after they form.

How should I care?

Don't water too often, especially if your tree is growing in a container. Once or twice a week will be enough. You may need to water more in the summer when the trees already have fruit.

Pruning is usually done in winter when the tree is dormant. Just like a full-sized fruit tree, prune branches that are damaged or diseased or those that grow toward the center of the tree.

If your tree is growing in a container, consider moving it indoors. Some dwarf fruit trees require support, especially during fruiting. Tying them to a stake should do all the hard work for you.

Don't forget to feed your tree. From time to time, add compost around it, water it with compost tea, or add organic amendments to the soil. Pay special attention to trees that grow in containers.

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Landing

Half the success depends on the right choice of location. The apple tree prefers sunny areas, with light, permeable soil, away from shade and groundwater.

It is also important to maintain a favorable neighborhood. The culture grows well next to pears, raspberries, plums, cherries

Does not take root next to cherry trees.

When growing self-sterile varieties, care should be taken to provide suitable pollinators. If you plant the dwarf species Bogatyr and Melba on the site, then most of the problem will be solved; they are almost universal partners.

Planting dates are spring and autumn. The landing pit is prepared in advance:

• line the drainage layer;
• add last year's manure or vermicompost mixed with a small amount of sand and wood ash;
• the hole is watered with 2-3 buckets of warm, settled water.

The seedling is lowered into the hole strictly vertically, without deepening the root collar (it should remain above the soil). The plant is fixed to the base, the trunk circle is mulched with peat, sawdust, and crushed bark.

Water several times a season; for young seedlings, 2-3 buckets are enough, once every 14-30 days, depending on the weather.

Mature trees will need 80-90 liters in early spring, before and after flowering, during the ripening period and before covering for the winter. Loosening is carried out very carefully, at a distance of at least 20-30 cm from the trunk, since in many dwarf species the root system is superficial, and therefore vulnerable to mechanical damage. Mulching retains moisture in the summer season and prevents roots from freezing in frosts. Feeding is necessary once every 2 weeks. To do this, alternate organic and mineral fertilizers in the form of solutions or granules for combined preparations. Pruning is done in the spring, before the sap begins to flow, and in the fall, after the leaves fall. Preventive spraying against diseases and pests is carried out according to a schedule, always in March, before flowering and during the period of fruit formation

Treatment and pest control is carried out symptomatically.

Zoned varieties and species designed for cultivation in central Russia are perfect for the Moscow region.

Dwarf trees (as well as semi-dwarf varieties) are good to plant if you have a small plot of land. In addition, such trees, despite their small size, produce high yields and are highly resistant to diseases.

In the Moscow region the climate is unstable. In winter, slight sub-zero temperatures can alternate with severe frosts. Because of this, many trees do not take root here well, and in the summer they lack warmth.

This must be taken into account when selecting trees for cultivation.

Dwarfs have some advantages compared to ordinary ones:

• Their height is 2-4 m and they have a crown up to 2 m in diameter. Because of this, they can be placed even in a small area.
• The fruits are very easy to pick as the trees are not tall.
• All dwarf apple trees bear fruit annually, unlike ordinary varieties.

But varieties of low-growing apple trees also have a drawback - the trees need to be replaced much more often, since their lifespan is shorter than that of ordinary ones.

They also need to be covered more thoroughly for the winter, because... The root system is located shallow underground and can freeze.

Disadvantages of dwarf trees

In addition to the positive aspects, there are other nuances. Let's look at some of the disadvantages. When planting a dwarf garden, you will need to buy more seedlings, since their arrangement is more dense than standard varieties.

Low-growing varieties have a shorter lifespan. For example, an apple tree can bear fruit for 20 years, a pear grafted on a quince - 30 years.

Unlike vigorous plants, dwarf plants have a shallow root system. Sometimes strong winds can damage trees by tilting them to the side. Trees also suffer from heavy fruit, so proper support must be provided during cultivation.

If the planting is carried out incorrectly and the root collar is buried in the ground, then such a tree will turn from a short one into a tall one.

The described species require more care: regular watering, weed removal, fertilizing.

Fruits often become smaller due to overcrowding. That is, the trees described always produce a high yield, which can negatively affect the size of the fruit. Therefore, it is recommended to monitor the development of ovaries and cut off excess ones.

Planting an apple tree in spring

The pit should be prepared 2 weeks before the expected planting date. Rotted manure or humus, as well as a mixture of fertile soil and mineral fertilizers, are placed at the bottom of the depression. When planting in spring, it is recommended to use urea.

Before planting an apple tree, the cuttings should be placed in a solution of water with several granules of potassium permanganate a few days before planting.

The landing algorithm is as follows:

A small mound is formed at the bottom of the pit

A support is inserted on either side of the center. The seedling is carefully placed on the mound and the root system is straightened. First, fertile soil is filled in, and then ordinary soil. The earth is compacted. A circum-trunk circle is formed from the trunk at a distance of 25 cm. The seedling is tied to a support and the tree is watered abundantly. When the moisture is completely absorbed into the soil, mulch the tree trunk circle using humus and dry peat.

Diseases of dwarf apple trees

An apple tree on a dwarf rootstock can suffer from the same diseases as tall apple trees, or rather, such a plant can be affected by: witch's broom (proliferation), bitter fruit rot, milky sheen, mosaic, mosaic ringing, powdery mildew, fly beetle, tinder fungus, common canker, scab, branch dieback, pome fruit rot, subcutaneous viral spot, rubbery, rust, flattened branches, glassy fruit, black canker and cytosporosis.

If the plant is affected by a fungal disease, then for treatment it is necessary to use fungicidal preparations, for example: iron or copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, colloidal sulfur, Quadris, Skor, Horus, Fundazol, Ridomil, Topaz, etc. Mycoplasma and viral diseases are considered incurable, due to with this, the affected areas are cut out to healthy tissue, after which they are treated with copper sulfate. In the best case scenario, the tree will be able to recover and continue to grow, but if not, then it should be removed from the soil and destroyed.

Preventive measures to protect your dwarf apple tree from diseases:

• adhere to the rules of agricultural technology for this plant;
• carrying out preventive spraying of apple trees in spring and autumn;
• proper care of the garden plot;
• keeping the tree trunk clean;
• regular proper treatment of trees against fungal diseases;
• timely removal of plant residues, as well as loosening the soil in the tree trunk circle.

Why do apple trees dry out? Black cancer of the apple tree. Website "Garden World"

The main advantages of growing dwarf fruit trees in the garden

Dwarf fruit trees have become very popular all over the world due to some significant advantages. The main advantages are:

• early period of fruiting;
• ease of maintenance required;
• high annual yields;
• the small area they occupy.

Table of distance between trees.

A very important parameter, which to some extent affects both industrial and individual gardening, is the very early period of fruiting. In addition, these crops are ideal for any garden because they produce a fairly good harvest.

Due to the fact that the height of the low-growing trees themselves is no more than 2 m, and their crown does not grow very much, they are very easy to care for even from a human height. Each harvest and pruning of shoots can be done directly from the ground, and there is no need to additionally use a stepladder.

The main advantage of dwarf trees is that they have very high overall yields and produce much larger yields than traditional varieties.

Features of a dwarf apple tree

The dwarf apple tree is not a new species of apple tree. To obtain such a plant, a varietal cutting is taken and grafted onto a clonal dwarf rootstock. The resulting apple trees do not exceed 250 cm in height. The average lifespan of such apple trees, if properly cared for, is from 20 to 30 years, while ordinary vigorous apple trees live somewhat longer - from 35 to 40 years.

It happens that columnar apple trees are mistaken for dwarf, but these are different forms. There are medium-growing and vigorous columnar apple trees, but there are also dwarf columnar apple trees, but this form of plant does not have a crown. And the crown shape of a dwarf apple tree is the same as that of a regular apple tree, only it is slightly smaller.

The first harvest on the apple tree. Glory to the winners. (dwarf)

Planting and caring for trees in spring

Growing dwarf apple trees has certain rules, if followed, even from a small tree you can get a good harvest.

The main points that need to be taken into account are:

selection of seedlings; taking into account disembarkation conditions; carrying out baits according to the seasons; attention to the subtleties of care. Planting in the spring season for such plants is the best option, since gradual warming has a milder effect on the condition of the plant, and fertilizers added to the soil have time to dissolve, which reduces their effect on the root surface

Planting in the spring season for such plants is the best option, since gradual warming has a milder effect on the condition of the plant, and fertilizers added to the soil have time to dissolve, which reduces their effect on the root surface.

How to choose a seedling

Most varieties of dwarf apple trees are analogues of ordinary species and are obtained only by grafting a bud onto a dwarf rootstock.
Semi-dwarf apple trees of various varieties are also obtained in a similar way.

At first glance, it is impossible to distinguish an ordinary varietal tree from a dwarf apple tree on a rootstock.

In order not to make a mistake when choosing, you can use information about the features that are unique to dwarf apple trees:

1. The presence of a noticeable protrusion in the area of ​​the root transition on a dwarf rootstock seedling is the grafting site.
2. The root system of dwarf apple trees has a large number of branches and a fine structure, in contrast to the classic one - a taproot.
3. The height of the trunk should not exceed 50 cm, and the number of formed branches is insignificant - 2-3 pieces.
4. Seedlings of 2 years of age must have large buds at the ends of the branches.

The most common rootstocks for grafting in the Russian Federation are B7-35 and M9, but the list of such bases is quite extensive and does not make any fundamental difference in the matter of breeding.

Fertilizing apple trees

Due to the fact that dwarf and semi-dwarf apple trees have a small root system and active and abundant fruiting, there is a need to regularly fertilize the plant with various fertilizers.

The frequency of this procedure in the warm season is 1 time every 2 weeks. Depending on the season, different compositions of such products are used:

In spring, it is recommended to use complex formulations. In the 2nd and 3rd years they are used in an amount of 30-40 g per bucket of water. In addition to this, chicken manure (1 in 20) and mullein solution (1 in 10) are often used.

In summer, foliar feeding is mainly used. Such substances are used as compositions sprayed on leaves. The procedure is performed early in the morning or late evening to ensure minimal exposure to sunlight.

Nitrogen components are not included in autumn fertilizing compositions, as they provoke the development of young shoots and branches. Such changes significantly slow down the preparation of the apple tree for wintering. During this season, it is recommended to use types of fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium.

Among foliar fertilizers, it is often recommended to use urea.

However, before using it, you need to make sure that the concentration of the resulting composition is not capable of burning the foliage of the tree without additional exposure.

Caring for dwarf apple trees in the garden

How to care in spring

Compared to ordinary apple trees, growing a dwarf apple tree is much easier, but this is only if you know all the nuances. At the beginning of spring, the branches of newly planted seedlings need to be slightly shortened. If the tree has been growing for several years, then at this time it will need sanitary and formative pruning. Before sap flow begins, trees should be treated to prevent pests and diseases. Also, trapping belts are installed on the trunks, which are designed to catch pests.

These apple trees have a superficial root system, and therefore it is very important to ensure that the surface of the soil in the circle around the trunk does not dry out. When the plant is watered, it is necessary to loosen the soil surface in the tree trunk circle to a shallow depth (from 50 to 70 mm). To reduce the number of waterings and prevent rapid evaporation of moisture, it is recommended to cover the surface of the tree trunk circle with a layer of mulch. In April, on a fine day, the trunk and the base of the skeletal branches of the tree should be whitewashed; lime is used for this. In spring, you should also feed the apple tree with complex or nitrogen-containing fertilizer.

Summer care

In the summer, special attention should be paid to watering the apple tree. Remember that the soil in the tree trunk circle should not dry out. Also in summer, the plant is often attacked by pests, and to get rid of them, you can use both folk remedies and chemicals.

In the summer, the dwarf apple tree is most often fed leaf by leaf, and it is recommended to add microelements to the nutrient solution, especially at this time the tree needs iron. During the fruit-filling period, do not forget to install supports so that the branches weighed down with apples do not break.

Autumn care

In autumn, most varieties of dwarf apple trees ripen. In this regard, the main activity in the autumn months is harvesting. Please note that the tree trunk circle must be constantly clean at this time, so fallen leaves and fruits, as well as other debris, must be promptly removed from it. When the harvest is harvested, the tree must be fed using mineral fertilizers, and sanitary pruning is also performed.

After the tree trunk circle has been cleared of plant debris (leaves, trimmed branches, etc.), it needs to be loosened, which will lead to disruption of the thermal insulation of harmful insects that have settled in the soil for the winter. In the middle of autumn, the apple tree should be treated for preventive purposes against pests and diseases. In late autumn, you need to prepare the tree for wintering.

Treatment

In the spring, before the buds swell, apple trees need to be treated with a solution of Nitrafen or Bordeaux mixture (1%) to get rid of fungi and harmful insects that have overwintered in the bark and in the surface of the tree trunk. For treatment, you can use a urea solution (7%); it will not only get rid of pests and diseases, but will also become a source of nitrogen for the plant. You need to spray the bushes before the sap flow begins, otherwise the buds that have begun to bloom will be burned. In the autumn, when the leaf fall ends, repeated preventive treatment of dwarf apple trees is carried out. To do this, use a solution of Nitrafen or Bordeaux mixture (1%).

How to water

The regime and abundance of watering directly depends on the age of the apple tree, as well as on the weather. Trees that have not begun to bear fruit require three waterings during the season, with 50 liters of water being poured under one plant at a time. The last time the apple tree needs to be watered is in the first days of August. Trees that have begun to bear fruit need more frequent watering; there should be 3–5 waterings during the season, namely: before the tree blooms, during flowering, before the ovaries fall off (in June) and before the apples begin to ripen.

If the soil is sandy loam, then 40 liters of water should be poured under 1 tree at a time, but if it is loamy, then 60 liters of water will be needed. If there was a drought in the summer and very little rain in the fall, the plant will require moisture-recharging winter watering. In this case, you need to try to get the soil wet to the depth of the root system; for this, take 1 bucket of water per 1 square meter of garden. If the groundwater in the area is located relatively close to the soil surface, then such an apple tree does not need moisture-recharging winter watering.

Fertilizer

Since the root system of an apple tree on a dwarf rootstock is not very large, and fruiting is characterized by its abundance, it is necessary to systematically feed it once every half month. In the second and third years of growth, the plant will need fertilizing with complex fertilizer (30–40 grams of substance per 10 liters of water). It is recommended to feed the apple tree with organic matter at least 2 times during the season; for this you can use a solution of chicken manure (1:20) or mullein (1:10), while 10 liters of the nutrient mixture is taken per 1 bush. In the summer, complex foliar feeding is carried out and mineral fertilizers are used for this. In this case, the foliage must be sprayed on both sides with a nutrient solution. This procedure is carried out early in the morning or late in the evening, choosing a windless and dry day. It is also recommended to feed the apple tree leaf by leaf with a solution of urea, but its concentration should be low, otherwise burns will remain on the surface of the foliage. The last time you can feed the plant by leaf is no later than September. In autumn, fertilizers used for fertilizing should not contain nitrogen, as it helps stimulate the growth of young shoots, which leads to a delay in preparing the tree for wintering. In autumn, the plant needs phosphorus and potassium most of all. Approximate composition of fertilizing per 1 square meter of area: pour 2 tbsp into 1 bucket of water. l. double superphosphate and 1 tbsp. l. potassium

Wintering

Since the root system of such a plant is located close to the surface of the site, it can freeze out in a cold winter with little snow. In order to prevent this, the tree trunk circle must be covered with compost or humus, and the layer must be thick enough. They also throw spruce branches on top of it. After the snow falls, if desired, you can remove the spruce branches, and instead, the tree trunk circle is covered with a thick layer of snow, because even very severe frost cannot harm the apple tree under it.

Caramel Apple Cake Recipe

Mona Lisa biscuit. Beat the egg white with salt and 1 tsp. sugar until stable peaks.

In another container, beat the egg with the remaining sugar.

Sift both types of flour together and melt the butter. Pour the flour mixture into the beaten egg and mix gently.

Add the whipped egg white in several additions, gently mixing with folding movements. Finally add melted butter and stir.

Bake in a 16cm diameter ring (or pan) in a preheated oven for about 15 minutes. Check readiness with a wooden skewer. Cool in pan on a wire rack.

Apple confit. Soak gelatin in 60 g of water. Wash the apples (it’s better to take them a little loose), peel them, remove the skin and remove the core. We will need 400 g of prepared apples. Cut into small (1*1 cm) cubes, sprinkle with lemon juice.

Place 250 g of apples in a saucepan and add sugar. Place on low heat and cook until soft.

Remove from heat, puree with a blender or rub through a sieve. Add the zest of half a lemon.

Dilute corn starch with 2 tsp. water

Add 1-2 tsp. mix the resulting applesauce. Then add the rest of the puree. Put the mixture on the fire, bring to a boil, cook for about a minute. Remove from heat, add dissolved gelatin and apples in pieces (150g).

Place the apple mixture on the cooled biscuit, smooth it out, cover with cling film and put it in the freezer until it hardens.

Caramel mousse. Very tasty stuff! Pre-soak the gelatin. Mix 1 tbsp. l. sugar, starch and yolks.

Heat the milk (do not boil) and mix in parts with the yolks. Stir until smooth.

Put the mixture on the fire, bring to thickening. Remove from heat, add dissolved gelatin, cover “in contact” with cling film and cool to room temperature.

Beat chilled cream until fluffy.

100 g sugar and 2 tbsp. l. Place the water on low heat until the sugar dissolves.

Then you can increase the heat a little and bring the syrup to a boil. NECESSARILY!!! You need to wash off the sugar along the walls with a brush moistened with water. Cook until caramel color.

At the same time, beat the egg whites with salt and 2 tsp. sugar to peaks.

Without stopping whisking, pour the caramel syrup into the egg whites in a thin stream.

Beat until the caramel meringue has cooled to room temperature and is very thick.

Then add the cooled custard base. Mix. And whipped cream. Mix carefully.

Assembly. Cover a mold without a bottom (or a ring) with cling film. Place on a board on which to freeze the cake. Transfer the entire mousse into the mold.

Remove the sponge cake and apple confit insert from the freezer. Cut from the ring. Using gentle movements, slightly scrolling in one direction, press the insert with the biscuit facing up. Cover with cling film and place in the freezer for 5-6 hours.

Glaze. Soak the gelatin. Bring sugar, water and glucose syrup (I used invert) to a boil. Remove from heat, add gelatin. Place chocolate in a narrow container, pour condensed milk and sugar-gelatin mass. Using an immersion blender at an angle, without capturing air, beat the glaze. If small bubbles still form, strain through a fine sieve. Remove the cake from the mold and pour glaze over it. The working temperature of the glaze is 30-35 degrees. Place in the refrigerator for 3-4 hours to softly defrost.

Decorate as desired. I have an ordinary small apple, covered with the remnants of the same glaze and chocolate squiggles and a cut:

Bon appetit!

Variety Legend

The early winter variety Legend appeared as a result of the combination of the Japanese Fuji variety and the domestic Lingonberry variety. A tree with a dense spherical crown and compactly located shoots.

The fruits are slightly ribbed, grow quite large, and are shaped like a truncated cone. The main color of apples is greenish with a yellow tint; as they ripen, the fruits turn red. Occasionally, burgundy stripes appear on their surface. The pulp is white, with a creamy tint, juicy, fine-grained with a strong aroma. The taste of the fruit is sweet, caramel.

The advantages of the Legend variety are frost resistance and immunity to most pests and diseases.

Late varieties

A very popular variety is Podmoskovnaya Grushovka, which has good and stable yields. The tree is resistant to scab and begins to bear fruit in the fifth or sixth year. Its fruits are small, yellow with a red blush.

The Bogatyr variety is distinguished by its resistance to diseases and frost. The tree is very branchy, so it requires annual thinning of the crown. Its fruits taste like Antonovka and are yellow-red in color.

Very large, late-ripening dessert apples with yellow-green skin are produced by the “Kovrovoe” variety. The yield per tree is high, and the first fruits ripen already in the fourth year.

The frost-resistant variety “Snowdrop” is not affected by scab and produces apples of a uniform yellow color with a red side. The taste of the fruit is sweet and sour, and its weight is up to 170 grams.

Large apples of the Bratchud variety have a characteristic side seam. This tree is characterized by frost resistance and regular harvests, which begin at the age of three. The apples are yellow-green in color, have a sweet and sour taste with grainy flesh.

The relatively young variety “Moscow Necklace” produces large apples of bright red color and a sweet and sour taste already in the third year of planting.

Apple tree variety Zhigulevskoe

The autumn dwarf variety Zhigulevskoe is distinguished by its high yield, endurance and resistance to pests and diseases. A small tree (grows up to two to three meters) begins to bear fruit at the age of 4-5. A Siberian apple seedling is used as a rootstock.

Large round fruits of a striped coral-red hue have a sweet and sour taste. Their average weight is 120-200 grams, but there are specimens weighing 350 g. The skin of the apples is shiny, oily, the flesh is tender, juicy and coarse-grained.

Ripening is fast, the harvest can be harvested already in the first ten days of September, and in hot and dry weather - at the end of August. Apples can be stored for about six months.

Growing apple trees on dwarf rootstocks

If you want to plant apple trees on a dwarf rootstock, the best choice is to purchase a ready-made seedling from a trusted seller.

However, in this case you should also carefully inspect the purchase.

After purchasing a seedling, you should take into account the following number of requirements for protecting the roots when transporting the plant and during final planting on the site:

1. The roots are wrapped in a wet cloth, which preserves their moisture and provides temporary nutrition to the tree. If long-term transportation is planned, then the humidity needs to be monitored and updated from time to time.
2. A plastic bag or cut-off eggplant should be placed over the fabric, which will ensure long-term moisture retention. As an option, many use cling film, but it is inconvenient in terms of preserving the integrity of the roots.
3. The roots should be unrolled immediately before planting, regardless of the permanent location. Otherwise, the roots may become overdried and subsequently broken, which will lead to the death of the seedling.

Sometimes, a tree is purchased in the fall, but planting is planned only for the spring season.
In such a situation, you should prepare a temporary place of detention - a tub, a large pot or a small place on the site.

Planting a dwarf apple tree in autumn

It is recommended to plant dwarf apple trees in autumn from the second half of September to mid-October.

At this time, the flow of juices through the plant has not yet stopped completely, but has already slowed down significantly.

To disembark, you need to consider the following points:

1. The area is well lit or in partial shade, since the apple tree requires a sufficient amount of sun, and with its dwarf size it will not grow on its own.
2. The planting site must be protected from excessive drafts and gusts of wind - the root system is weakly deepened and does not have a central core, unlike wild apple trees and other species.
3. The location of groundwater is assumed to be no closer than 1.5 m, otherwise the root system may be frozen from excessive moisture in the winter or become wet in the spring.
4. Be sure to fertilize the soil before planting. This is due to the fact that the root system has its own weaknesses and does not go deep into the ground, so it collects food in the nearest area.

It is necessary to tie the young tree to an auxiliary support and mulch the surface under the plant with peat or humus.

The last nuance will allow you to maintain maximum soil moisture to nourish the apple tree on a dwarf rootstock.

How to plant a dwarf apple tree in spring

Planting dwarf apple trees in the spring season can only be done during the period when the soil has already thawed and the buds on the trees have not yet awakened.

The holes for this planting option have been prepared since last year; before the onset of frost, they are filled with a mixture of fertilizers with fallen leaves and soil.

This will speed up the process of mixing fertilizer elements with the soil and give it time to compact.

The further process should be carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. To ensure the safety of the root system from fertilizer additives, you should fill a small hill (up to 20 cm) in the center of the hole with ordinary clean soil.
2. After the required elevation has been formed, a supporting element - a pole - is driven into the center of it.
3. The tree must be placed strictly in the middle of such a mound, and the roots are spread over its entire surface.
4. When the root system is distributed, the hole is filled with soil to a level determined by the grafting site. The grafting is located 3 cm above the ground.

After planting a dwarf rootstock in early spring, shortening pruning of the branches should be carried out immediately.

In the case of further care for older trees, this procedure is more of a preventive and crown-forming nature.

Such an early procedure is explained by the fact that the procedure must be performed before the start of sap flow.

Reproduction of dwarf apple trees

Weak rootstocks are most often propagated by vegetative methods: horizontal and vertical layering, intercalary insertion, root, lignified and green cuttings, as well as budding. The main difficulty in growing an apple tree on a dwarf rootstock is that such a seedling is very difficult to obtain, and it also has a relatively high cost.

Is it possible to grow a dwarf rootstock with your own hands? There are several ways to do this.

Reproduction by vertical layering

Two-year-old seedlings of a dwarf rootstock are well suited for this method of propagation. It should be planted in open soil, with part of the stem buried 10–15 centimeters into the ground. In spring, the part of the plant located above the ground should be shortened to 15–20 mm, while the remaining stump should have 2 or 3 buds. After the length of the shoots grown from these buds is from 12 to 15 centimeters, when watering is done or it rains, the stump will need to be covered with peat, sawdust or nutrient soil to a height of 60 to 100 mm. Before you start hilling, you must carefully straighten the shoots. After their length reaches 20–25 centimeters, they need to be hilled again with a gentle and wide hill, while nitrogen-containing fertilizer is added to the soil. On vertical layering, roots will begin to grow after 35–40 days. At this stage, it is very important to maintain high soil moisture (75 to 80 percent). You also need to regularly weed and loosen the soil. In autumn, the soil must be carefully removed and layering (shoots with formed roots) must be separated using pruning shears, while 10–20 mm of growth should be left on the stump. Separated cuttings should be planted in open soil. The mother bush must be covered with earth, since with proper care for 10 years it will produce from 5 to 10 layerings every year, and varietal cuttings can be grafted onto them.

Reproduction by horizontal layering

You will need powerful stems of a dwarf rootstock that are low growing. They should be laid in pre-prepared shallow (from 30 to 50 mm) grooves, after which they are fixed with metal pins and sprinkled with a layer of soil. In spring, all the soil must be carefully removed from the horizontal layering, and the vertical shoots that have grown from it will need hilling to a height of 12 to 15 centimeters, which must be repeated later, but to a height of 20 to 25 centimeters. It is recommended to tie the cuttings at the base with soft wire, which will have a positive effect on the formation of roots. In autumn, cuttings should be cut off from the parent bush, removed from the ground, divided into several parts and planted in open ground in a permanent place. Such layers are of higher quality compared to vertical ones.

How to propagate with an intercalary insert

Dwarf rootstocks have one big drawback: their root system is located very close to the soil surface, and therefore it can be severely damaged due to severe frosts in winters with little snow, which often leads to the death of the tree. But it is quite possible to get rid of this drawback. To do this, you need to use a combined method of creating a dwarf apple tree using an intercalary insert - this is an intermediate link between the rootstock of a vigorous apple tree and a varietal cutting, which is a cutting of a dwarf tree. As a result, a three-story structure is created: first there is a well-developed and powerful system of roots of a vigorous apple tree, then a cutting of a dwarf apple tree is grafted onto it, and then a cutting of a cultivated variety is grafted onto it. Trees with similar inserts can be planted in open soil in different ways:

• after planting, the insert should rise above the surface of the site;
• the seedling is planted with the insert buried in the soil, and after some time it will also develop a root system.

How to propagate from green cuttings

For propagation by green cuttings to be successful, you will need a greenhouse in which fog must be created. Harvesting is carried out in mid-June, and young shoots should be used to cut green cuttings with three leaf blades. The upper cut should be made above the third leaf blade, and the lower one - under the bud. The lower leaf plate must be torn off, after which the cuttings must be tied, and their lower sections must be immersed in a solution that promotes the formation of roots for 18–20 hours. After the cuttings have been washed in clean running water, they should be planted in a greenhouse using the diagram 4x6 centimeters. It should be taken into account that the soil mixture should be loose and consist of sand and peat. You will need a special installation that will help create a foggy environment in the greenhouse, since moisture must be present on the foliage at all times. In the summer, cuttings that have taken root must be planted in open soil, where they will grow for 1 year. They are then used as dwarf rootstocks for varietal cuttings.

How to propagate from woody cuttings

Woody cuttings are harvested in the autumn when cuttings are removed from the soil. The length of the cutting with etiolated lower part must be at least 0.2–0.3 m. Before planting, the cuttings are placed for storage in the basement, they are buried in moistened peat or sand and kept at a temperature of 2–5 degrees. At the beginning of the spring, these cuttings are planted in an unheated greenhouse, while a distance of 10 centimeters should be maintained between them, and it should also be taken into account that only 2 or 3 buds should remain above the surface of the area. In order for the cuttings to take root well, it is necessary to maintain high air humidity in the greenhouse (from 75 to 80 percent).

How to propagate from root cuttings

To obtain columnar rootstocks using this method, you need to ask your neighbors or buy several root cuttings from the nursery; they should reach 8–12 centimeters in length and 0.6–1 centimeters in diameter. For winter, they are placed in peat or sand for storage and kept at a temperature of 2–5 degrees. 15–20 days before planting for rooting, the cuttings are removed to a warmer place (from 15 to 20 degrees). In spring, cuttings should be planted in open soil, and a distance of 8–10 centimeters should be maintained in the row between them. The cuttings should be placed vertically in the soil, making sure that the thickness of the soil layer above the top cut is at least 20 mm. Several shoots should grow from the cuttings, which need to be removed, leaving only the most branched. The main condition for successful propagation using this method is constantly slightly moist soil.

How to propagate by budding

Budding is carried out in mid-July. You need to take a shield with an eye of a varietal cutting, a leaf petiole and a thin layer of wood, which is inserted into a T-shaped cut in the bark of the dwarf rootstock, located slightly above the knee. Then the grafting site needs to be wrapped with budding tape; you can also take other sufficiently elastic material, but the eye and petiole should not be closed. After 15–20 days, the shield should have completely fused with the rootstock. To ensure that budding is definitely successful, 2 buds of the same variety are grafted at once, and they are placed on opposite sides of the rootstock. After the shield has taken root, it will be necessary to remove the budding tape, and with the onset of spring, it will be necessary to cut the rootstock onto the grafted bud, after which the base of the shoot that grows from the grafted eye will be earthed up. Next spring it will be possible to begin to form the crown of a dwarf apple tree.

Features of crown formation

Independent development of an apple tree is possible, but this approach can lead to a decrease in yield and the gradual death of the tree.

One of the most important factors in this matter is the competent formation of the crown.

In the spring, attention is paid to anti-aging pruning, and in the autumn, the main one is sanitary pruning, which is carried out exclusively after harvesting.

How to prune a dwarf apple tree

Crown-forming pruning for a dwarf or semi-dwarf tree is carried out according to similar principles with tall apple trees, adjusted for the reduction in time.

The main options for crown formation are the following types of apple tree pruning:

The most common is pyramidal pruning, as it allows you to form a tree about 2.5 meters high with approximately the same length of branches (about 1 m).

This allows you to free up space, make the tree more attractive in appearance and provide free space and the amount of juice for fruit formation.

Pruning a dwarf apple tree in spring

Sanitary and crown-forming pruning require a thorough approach and consideration of the standards applicable to trees.

The differences in these points are large, since sanitary treatment does not imply the elimination of living and healthy parts of the shoots, and formative treatment is more based on the impact on growth centers, some of which are removed.

In the spring, the first priority is sanitary pruning of the crown, which involves the removal of all branches that have a certain number of damages:

• broken:
• incorrectly growing;
• frozen;
• sick;
• dried.

In addition to sanitary treatment, it is necessary to carry out formative treatment, which involves the following series of annual actions:

1. The first pruning necessarily requires shortening the plant to 50 cm, taking into account the cut to the bud opposite to the graft. Thus, at the end of the season there will be 4-5 main shoots on the tree, the central and tallest of which is skeletal.
2. In the second year, the central conductor branch is cut by 20 cm, taking into account the cut to the side opposite to the remaining bud. This helps maintain the vertical direction of growth of the main part of the tree and forms its skeleton.
3. Further pruning of the central conductor involves annual opposite pruning by 20 cm until the required height of the apple tree is reached. After this, all growth in the central part of the tree is eliminated, which will allow maintaining a certain level.

During formative pruning of a dwarf apple tree into a pyramidal shape, side shoots must be shortened by 3 leaves during the summer and all second-order branches must be cut to the first leaf from the base.

Pruning a dwarf apple tree in autumn

During the harvesting process, tree branches are often damaged, which ultimately requires corrections.

Sanitary pruning of dwarf apple trees in the autumn season requires attention to the following branches:

• dry wood;
• fractures;
• diseases;
• competition;
• pest damage.

When the thickness of the cut branch is over 7 mm, it is necessary to treat the cut area with garden varnish to close the duct.

Pruning dwarf apple trees

What time to prune

In order for the yield of a dwarf apple tree to be consistently high, it needs to have a properly formed crown. If you neglect the formative prunings, then every year there will be fewer and fewer fruits, and after 3 or 4 years the tree will, at best, have a few fruits of not very good quality. Formative pruning is carried out in March–April. At the same time, sanitary and anti-aging pruning is carried out. After the entire crop is harvested in the autumn, the plant will need repeated sanitary pruning.

Pruning rules

The rules for formative pruning of dwarf apple trees are the same as for forming the crown of vigorous apple trees, but it is carried out in a shorter time. For dwarf apple trees there are several types of crowns: slender spindle, flat spindle, free palmette, dwarf pyramid. Moreover, the last type on this list is the most popular among gardeners. So, a tree is formed from the plant, the height of which does not exceed 250 cm, while the average length of the branches will be approximately 100 cm.

Spring pruning

Before sap flow begins in the spring, the tree should be sanitarily pruned; to do this, remove all injured, frost- or disease-damaged branches, as well as improperly growing branches. At the same time, formative pruning is also carried out. The formation of a dwarf apple tree begins in the first spring after planting the seedling. To do this, the plant should be shortened to 0.5 m, and the cut is made on the bud opposite to the graft. As a result, at the end of the season, the plant should form 4 or 5 powerful shoots, while the topmost one (the future conductor) should grow almost vertically. Next season, the conductor should be cut 20 centimeters from the base of the growth on the bud, opposite to the cut that was made last season. This allows you to maintain the most vertical direction of the conductor. The remaining branches (there should be at least 4 of them) must be shortened to 20 centimeters from the base.

Side shoots that do not participate in the formation of the tree skeleton must be cut into 3 leaves, and second-order shoots into the first leaf from their base. Such procedures begin to be carried out in the last days of July and are completed only when the length of uncut shoots reaches 20 centimeters. For the third season and all subsequent ones, the plant should be cut in the same order; for this, the wire is shortened by 20 centimeters to the bud, which is located opposite to last year’s cut, which will allow maintaining its vertical position. After the apple tree reaches the required height, all growth of the conductor will need to be trimmed every year. After the length of the skeletal branches is 0.45–0.5 m, their lateral growths will also need to be trimmed. If necessary, you need to thin out overgrowing branches. In order for the fruiting branches to be directed horizontally, they should be shortened by growth that is oriented downward. In order for the crown shape to remain pyramidal, the growth of the upper branches must be controlled.

APPLE TREE. Pruning an apple tree. We form a dwarf crown.

Autumn pruning

During the process of harvesting fruits, some of the branches are injured or broken off; therefore, when the leaf fall ends, the plant will require sanitary pruning. During this process, it is necessary to cut off all dried, improperly growing, injured, competing and diseased stems and branches. All sections that are thicker than 0.7 cm need to be treated with garden varnish. If it is colder than minus 5 degrees outside, then pruning should be postponed, since in such cold weather the wood is very fragile, and serious damage can be caused to the tree during pruning.

Bratchud

The full name of this winter variety is “Wonderful Brother”; it is suitable for growing in all climatic zones. The tree is a natural “dwarf” with a flat-rounded crown with a diameter of up to 3 m. The size of the fruits usually does not exceed average sizes. Their distinguishing feature is the presence of a small seam in the form of a strip. The skin is dry, with a glossy sheen. The main color of the fruit is greenish-yellow, later a purple blush appears. The pulp of ripe fruits is white, coarse-grained. It cannot be called juicy, but the taste remains pleasant. The variety is high-yielding, transportable, with a long shelf life.

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Apple tree variety Carpet

Gardeners are also pleased with the consistently high yield of the autumn apple variety Kovrovoe. It is early-bearing, resistant to low temperatures and scab. However, during a long winter, the lower branches may break off under the weight of snow.

The crown of the tree is horizontal, drooping. The size of the fruit exceeds the average size and can reach 200 g. The apples are flat-round, their main color is greenish-yellow, later saturated with a bright red blush. The pulp is creamy, coarse-grained and low-juicy, moderately aromatic, with a pleasant sweet and sour taste.

The fruits can be stored for up to two months.

Conifers

Sophistication, variety of shades, and the ability to give the crown any shape have made low conifers the most popular plants in territory design. With their help, they create hedges, compositions with stones, flowering annuals and perennials, design paths, borders, and dwarf species are planted in flowerpots.

Interesting! Popular varieties of low-growing blue spruce

Spruce Push (Picea abies Pusch)

A very beautiful original variety, represented by dwarf trees reaching a height of 30-50 cm in ten years of growth. The crown by this time becomes more dense, hemispherical, grows in diameter up to 60 cm. After 25-30 years it can grow up to 80 cm, and the crown circumference will increase to 100-120 cm.

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Kupressociparis for your garden: types, description, planting and care

There is no leading shoot - the crown is formed by chaotically located hanging branches. Young needles (1-2 cm) are lighter in color than old ones; needles are replaced after 6-10 years. At the ends of the shoots, oval orange-brown buds form, giving rise to growth.

At the tops of fresh growths in the sixth year of life, raspberry-violet cones are formed - this is the beginning of flowering. During this period, the tree is unusually beautiful - the bright cones contrast in an original way with the greenery of the needles. By winter they turn brown and remain that way until spring.

Spruce Little Gem (Picea abies Little Gem)

The dwarf, slow-growing spruce, growing no higher than 50 cm, belongs to the common spruce. The crown (diameter about 1 m) is round or cushion-shaped and is formed by thin branches, densely covered with dark old and light young needles 0.5 cm long. The peculiarity of the variety is that cones are not formed.

Related article:

How to rejuvenate old fruit trees

Due to its miniature size, spruce is grown as a container crop for decorating rock gardens, ridges, balconies, terraces, loggias, gazebos, and the front entrance. This version of the conifer goes well with roses, flowering perennials, and deciduous ornamental bushes.

Spruce Nidiformis (Picea abies Nidiformis)

A frost-resistant, unpretentious variety that is very popular. The height of the tree, reminiscent of a bird's nest in shape, is just over a meter, the diameter of the dense crown is about two meters. The needles are soft, short, light green at first, then darken as they grow.

In the fifth year, cones 12-15 cm long appear. The young cone is green, the adult becomes brown. Spruce is planted as a hedge; it goes well with dwarf blue spruce, juniper, and other conifers.

Interesting! The most beautiful varieties of pine trees

Mountain Jacobsen pine (Pinus mugo Jakobsen)

Plants of this variety are similar in characteristics to bonsai and are low (50 cm) compact trees with a neat crown with a diameter of 40-70 cm. The branches first grow upward, then take a horizontal position, as if creeping. With age, the base becomes bare. The needles are long and densely planted - the branch resembles a fluffy pom-pom in shape. By spring, light buds form at the ends, standing out brightly against the background of the dark crown.

Related article:

Growing magnolia Kobus from seeds: description, features

An adult plant can withstand frosts down to -34 °C, while a young plant requires shelter. Can be grown in containers. Does not tolerate too wet soils.

Variety Early sweet

The Early Sweet apple tree can withstand severe frosts with virtually no consequences. It is also resistant to scab. The tree is low-growing with a flat-rounded crown. It begins to bear fruit in the third year after grafting and bears fruit annually.

The fruits ripen at the end of July, they are medium in size and round in shape. The main color of apples is light yellow. The pulp is white, tender and sweet, with a light creamy tint. Like most early varieties, Early Sweet cannot be stored for long, a maximum of two weeks.

Dwarf fruit trees - types, varieties, photos, features of caring for a low-growing garden

/ Fertilizer /

Dwarf trees have won the special love of gardeners because they have a lot of positive characteristics. Of course, if we are to be completely objective, we need to talk about the negative features of such trees.

In the photo - a garden of dwarf trees

Advantages and disadvantages of dwarf gardens

This section presents two tables, after carefully studying them, you will receive all the necessary information about dwarf trees. It will be especially useful for those who are just starting to grow a dwarf garden with their own hands, however, experienced gardeners can learn a lot of new and interesting things for themselves.

The main advantage is high productivity

Positive sides

Based on all of the above, we can draw a brief preliminary conclusion about small fruit trees:

Dwarf varieties are easy to care for and bear fruit early

Note. The so-called mixed planting does not in any way affect the quality of the resulting fruit.

You can safely plant completely different varieties next to each other and be sure that you will get the perfect fruits!

It is worth noting the fact that the price of seedlings, despite all the advantages of such plants, does not exceed the cost of seedlings of ordinary plants.

That is, for the same money you buy a tree that:

• more convenient to care for;
• bears fruit several years earlier;
• has high productivity.

And you shouldn’t forget about such a fact as the high decorative qualities of a country garden.

Negative sides

Naturally, one cannot help but mention the negative properties inherent in these trees.

One of the negative aspects is the cost of creating supports

Note. If you are hardworking, ready to work for a good harvest and a beautiful garden, then all the negative aspects listed above should not scare you away.

Since they are more than offset by positive characteristics, especially high productivity.

: Tomato “Superbomb” - photo, variety description and characteristics

Pros of growing dwarf crops

Low-growing varieties are distinguished by the uniformity of their crown. Low-growing trees are easier to harvest. Fruit tree seedlings are characterized by high survival rate and friendly growth.

Dwarf peach

Unlike standard plants, dwarf plants have a compact shape and do not require constant pruning.

It takes a little time to form the crown and spray the dwarf garden against pests.

They make harvesting easier and the percentage of “broken” fruits is reduced.

They are distinguished by early fruiting and rapid harvest ripening.

The fruits of the described plants contain a higher percentage of useful substances than standard varieties. The fruits have the best appearance, they are always large. The trees bear fruit annually.

Benefits of a dwarf garden

All the advantages of dwarf trees for the garden come down to the concept of ease of growing such plantings.

Early fruiting

All varieties of dwarf trees have increased productivity, which is very important, especially when gardening is industrial. Also, stable fruiting in dwarf plants is established at the age of 8-10 years, which is much earlier than in ordinary fruit crops.

Easy to care for

The height of the plants makes it easy to maintain the garden in proper condition: trimming, tying, cleaning and fertilizing. Also, the height of low-growing plants greatly simplifies harvesting.

Productivity

The quantity and quality of fruits from dwarf trees are in no way inferior to a regular garden, moreover, they are even higher. This is explained by both earlier ripening and the relatively small expenditure of energy on the growth of the tree itself.

In conclusion

Dwarf trees will allow you to create the perfect garden design, filling it with a unique atmosphere, coziness and comfort. After studying our article, you can, after weighing all the pros and cons, form your opinion about these unique and unusual plants.

Source: https://agro-puls.ru/udobrenie/karlikovye-plodovye-derev-ya-vidy-sorta-foto-osobennosti-uhoda-za-nizkoroslym-sadom.html

Dwarf fruit trees for the garden

Very often in an orchard there is not enough space for all the crops and varieties that the owner would like to grow. Ordinary Russian summer residents know firsthand about this problem, trying to fit a residential building, a vegetable garden and an orchard on six acres of land.

An excellent solution in this situation would be to plant trees of dwarf varieties, which are not inferior to conventional crops in yield and quality of fruits, but take up much less space.

Compact fruit trees have a lot of advantages, but growing “dwarfs” also has its own nuances that should definitely be taken into account.

The features of “dwarfs” and recommendations for growing them will be discussed in this article. The most popular varieties of dwarf fruit trees will also be listed here and reviews from gardeners about some of them will be given.

Features of "dwarfs"

Dwarf fruit trees for the garden are a group of crops characterized by their small height and the presence of an end point of growth. All compact fruit trees are divided into two groups:

• natural “dwarfs”, growing up to 1.5-2 meters and stopping on their own;
• grafted “dwarfs”, which can be obtained by grafting low-growing varieties of fruit trees onto a special dwarf rootstock. Such trees, as a rule, grow up to 2.5-3 meters; they must be pruned correctly, limiting growth and regulating the direction of shoots.

When choosing dwarf varieties for growing on your own plot, the gardener should know about some of the characteristics of these trees. First of all, “dwarfs” have a small crown and an equally compact root system. Therefore, they require much less space in the garden than regular tall varieties.

With all these advantages, it is necessary to understand that the root system of dwarf fruits is located superficially, so the tree will need more moisture and nutrients.

Another feature of dwarf fruits is earlier fruiting - already in the second or third year after planting, the gardener can expect the first harvest.

Natural “dwarfs” have a short life cycle - about 10-15 years; after this time, the trees age, and their productivity sharply decreases.

Grafted low-growing varieties live longer - 20-30 years, here a lot depends on the life expectancy of the rootstock.

Advantages and disadvantages

Most reviews about dwarf fruit trees are positive - these crops are in demand among gardeners, more and more high-quality rootstocks are appearing, and there is a choice in accordance with the climatic characteristics of the region.

The biggest advantage of low-growing varieties is the ease of growing and caring for them: it is much easier to maintain a two- to three-meter tree than a taller crop.

The advantages of dwarf breeds do not end there; gardeners note the following qualities:

1. Early fruiting. Already two to three years after planting, a low-growing seedling begins to bear fruit, and within 6-8 years the tree’s fruiting becomes stable. This occurs several years earlier than in conventional tall varieties.
2. The yield of “dwarfs” is no worse, often even better, than that of ordinary fruit trees. It is thanks to this quality that dwarf crops have become so widespread: in a small area, you can collect as much fruit from a small tree as from a tall one.
3. The quality and size of the fruits of the “dwarfs” are in no way inferior to standard varieties of fruit trees. The fruits are just as tasty, juicy and aromatic. And their size is often even larger and more uniform.
4. The compact size of the crown greatly simplifies tree care. Trimming, spraying, and harvesting becomes much easier; high ladders and special devices are not needed.
5. A dwarf tree will require much less nutrients and processing agents, which is a significant saving on the gardener’s budget.
6. The ripening time of fruits in dwarf varieties is shorter and earlier than in ordinary trees. This is due to accelerated vegetation and rapid sap flow.
7. Compact dimensions allow you to grow one tall tree or 4-6 “dwarfs” in the same area.

This is not to say that the disadvantages of a dwarf garden are very critical, and it is better to abandon the idea of ​​compact gardening. But these nuances must be taken into account:

1. Large material investments. You will have to spend a lot more money on purchasing seedlings than on purchasing conventional varieties. The problem is solved by grafting inexpensive low-growing varieties onto a dwarf rootstock. But, even in this case, you will have to spend money on purchasing a couple of plants instead of one.
2. Frequency of care. You need to care for a dwarf garden in the same way as a traditional one. But this will have to be done more often: mini-trees should be watered regularly, fertilized more, and treated consistently against pests and diseases.
3. On average, “dwarfs” live half as long, so the gardener will have to uproot old plants more often and buy new ones.
4. Low trees with a shallow root system have a harder time standing up under gusts of wind or the weight of the crop, so they need supports.
5. Due to their high yield and poorly developed root system, dwarf trees need to be fed more abundantly and more often. For this purpose, both organic and mineral fertilizers are used.

Dwarf crops definitely deserve attention. It is better to check the quality of such varieties through your own gardening experience.

Varieties of "dwarfs"

Modern breeding is moving forward with huge strides, and today almost any type of dwarf crop is on sale. Every gardener can start a real mini-orchard with apples, pears, cherries, peaches and apricots on their plot.

Miniature apple trees

The first dwarf trees to appear in Russia were miniature apple trees. Typically, gardeners in the country grow them on a special M9 rootstock, which retards the growth of the tree and promotes its rapid growth. Not all low-growing apple trees are suitable for the climatic conditions of the country, but there are several successful varieties.

Candy

The fruits of this dwarf apple tree ripen in August. The average weight of an apple is 110-120 grams. The taste of the fruit is good, the fruit is juicy, aromatic, with firm flesh. The peel is yellow-green and covered with stripes.

Source: https://mercabadom.ru/karlikovye-plodovye-derevja-dlja-sada/

Low-growing trees in garden and cottage design

Various types of trees are used for landscaping: decorative deciduous, decorative fruit, coniferous, flowering. They can be mixed, planted separately, in groups - it all depends on the size of the plant and the area of ​​the site.

Related article:

Timely grafting means excellent harvest

The crown of an ornamental tree is artificially given the desired shape by pruning, pinching, or grafting or left unchanged, which is also sometimes justified. Conifers are ideal for trimming; the clear contours of their crown give the area neatness, strict elegance, and rigor.

Trees with a weeping crown, tall and small, are suitable for decorating ponds, the central part of a flower garden, or a lawn. Deciduous varieties are selected so that they create contrasting spots. Particularly popular are species that change color and do not lose their decorative effect even after leaf fall. Evergreen conifers and small ornamental fruit trees will decorate not only open space, but also any secluded corner in the garden or dacha.

What to look for when choosing a breed:

• characteristics of the crop, requirements for soil, temperature conditions;
• adaptability to the local climate;
• is it possible to carry out care according to the preferences of the plant;
• proximity to already planted (future) perennials, buildings, fences;
• growth of the root system.

Before choosing a tree or shrub, you need to draw up a site plan and determine where to plant a tall and where a short ornamental plant, and only then start selecting a crop.

Benefits of a dwarf garden

All the advantages of dwarf trees for the garden come down to the concept of ease of growing such plantings.

Early fruiting

All varieties of dwarf trees have increased productivity, which is very important, especially when gardening is industrial. Also, stable fruiting in dwarf plants is established at the age of 8-10 years, which is much earlier than in ordinary fruit crops.

Easy to care for

The height of the plants makes it easy to maintain the garden in proper condition: trimming, tying, cleaning and fertilizing. Also, the height of low-growing plants greatly simplifies harvesting.

Productivity

The quantity and quality of fruits from dwarf trees are in no way inferior to a regular garden, moreover, they are even higher. This is explained by both earlier ripening and the relatively small expenditure of energy on the growth of the tree itself.

Variety Glory to the winners

The summer-autumn variety Slava Pobeda, proven for decades, has been appreciated by both professionals and novice gardeners. It has become widespread in gardens not only in the south, but also in the north of the country. Apple trees of this variety have good winter hardiness, but they do not tolerate drought well: without watering they can drop some of the fruits.

Saplings of the Slava to the Winners variety are grown on medium-sized and dwarf rootstocks. The mature tree is spreading and has a wide pyramidal crown. The light green fruits with a pale red “blush” are very tasty and aromatic, and can be medium or large in size. In the southern regions, apples are stored for up to two months, in the north – almost twice as long.

The apple tree needs pollinators to bear fruit. Melba, Antonovka, Priam, etc. are well suited for this purpose. You can collect up to 150 kg of sweet and sour apples from one tree.

Variety Sokolovskoe

The winter variety Sokolovskoye was developed relatively recently. It is a natural “dwarf” with high productivity, but insufficient resistance to summer heat and frost. The apple tree begins to bear fruit 3-4 years after grafting.

The fruits are larger than average in size, flat-round. The shiny peel is usually greenish-yellow in color; as the apple ripens, it becomes covered with an expressive dark red blush. The pulp is cream-colored, dense and juicy, fine-grained. The taste of the fruit is sweet and sour with a pleasant aftertaste. They are consumed fresh and processed: in compotes, jams, preserves.

The Sokolovskoye variety is most widespread in the Urals. It also needs pollinators, for which it is better to plant varieties such as Bratchud, Carpet, and Snowdrop.

Variety Low-growing

The autumn variety Nizkorosloye is distinguished by exceptional early fruiting and excellent productivity. Among the advantages is its high frost resistance: it can survive fairly low temperatures. But in rainy summers, the leaves are affected by scab, so preventive treatments and regular examinations are necessary to identify signs of the disease.

The trees are low-growing, the branches grow at right angles to the trunk. The fruits are medium-sized, round in shape, with large, clearly visible ribs. The color of the fruits is greenish-yellow; as they ripen, red stripes appear on their surface, merging into a solid blush. The pulp is greenish in color, dense, fine-grained, juicy, with a sour-sweet aftertaste.

Variety Snowdrop

The winter variety of apples Snowdrop has high drought resistance and winter hardiness. The slate apple tree with predominantly horizontal branches is a natural “dwarf”; its height rarely exceeds two meters. Young trees bear fruit almost every year.

The fruits are medium in size, although there are specimens weighing 300 g. Their shape is round-conical with small ribs. The main color of the fruit is light yellow, later they become covered with a dark red blush. The pulp is light white, very juicy and tasty.

The fruits are consumed both fresh and used for making jams, preserves and compotes. In fresh form, they can be consumed immediately after picking.

The Snowdrop variety is self-sterile. The best pollinators for it: Kovrovoe, Prizemlennoye, Sokolovskoye. Breeders use its genetic material to breed low-growing varieties.

What are the advantages of low-growing species?

Dwarf apple trees are not some new plant variety. In essence, such trees involve the process of grafting classic apple crops onto a specially grown clonal dwarf rootstock.

The result of this grafting is an apple tree that grows only 2–2.5 meters in height. But do not confuse the concepts of dwarf and columnar plant. Columnar apple trees are a separate type of fruit tree that develops into a full-fledged tall plant. Such trees do not have a developed crown. Dwarf varieties, despite their short stature, are quite capable of developing a full crown, just of a reduced size.

Dwarf apple trees live somewhat shorter than classic varieties. On average, a classic tall apple tree lives 35–40 full years, while a dwarf apple tree lives only 25–30 years.

Variety Grounded

Another natural “dwarf” apple tree of the Prizemlennoe variety is distinguished by its very fast growing season (up to 160 days), high yield and early fruiting. During the growth period, tree branches begin to grow horizontally, almost parallel to the ground, while their ends bend upward.

The fruits are regular and round in shape, their size is slightly smaller than average. The main color of the apple is greenish-yellow; as it ripens, a red blush appears, which occupies the entire area of ​​the apple. The pulp is greenish, dense, very juicy and rich. The fruits taste sweet and sour and are suitable for making jams and preserves.

The tree can withstand frosts down to –40°C, and bears fruit annually. The disadvantages of the variety are the small size of the fruits and the possibility of darkening of their pulp during storage.

Variety Northern Sinap

The late winter variety Northern Sinap has a lot of advantages, which has become widespread in both public and private gardening, not only in the north, but also in the south of the country. The tree does not need constant care; its fruits are always of high quality.

With its abundant yield, winter hardiness, early fruiting and good keeping quality, the variety has won the sympathy of gardeners, both Russian and foreign. On a dwarf rootstock, it begins to bear fruit in the second year after planting. It has been noted that such a rootstock improves the appearance and taste of the fruit.

The crown of the tree is wide-pyramidal and of medium density. The fruits are relatively small (average weight 120 g), have a round-conical shape, yellow-green color with a brownish-red blush. Their white or slightly greenish flesh tastes sour-sweet, refreshing with hints of spice. Apples can be stored until summer and used for various types of processing.

Moscow red variety

But the high-yielding winter variety Moscow Red is resistant to scab and other diseases. Fruits and leaves remain healthy throughout the entire ripening period. The variety was bred by crossing Pepin saffron with the Brown Striped variety.

The tree is low with a compact spherical crown. The fruits are round in shape, without ribs. The main color of the fruit is greenish-yellow, becoming bright yellow as it ripens. By the time the fruit is picked, a rich red blush appears on the surface. The pulp is yellowish, with a pleasant sweet and sour taste.

However, the quality of the fruit, which can be stored until early summer, depends on the weather during the growing season. The variety also has average winter hardiness

Variety Melba

One of the oldest summer varieties, Melba (it was obtained in 1898 in Canada, and in our country it was entered into the state register in 1947) still enjoys constant popularity. The variety is named after the Australian singer Nellie Melba.

Few people are familiar with her work, but many remember the candy aroma and sweet and sour taste of these apples from childhood. Juices were made from them, compotes, jams and marmalades were made. And they are especially good fresh, especially since they can be stored for up to three months.

The fruits begin to ripen in early August; when ripe, they are whitish-yellow in color with a bright red striped blush. Their flesh is snow-white, very tender and juicy.

On a dwarf rootstock, Melba actively bears fruit for 10-15 years. Like most old varieties, it is susceptible to scab and, to a lesser extent, powdery mildew.

Apple tree variety "Wonderful"

The late summer variety Chudnoye is recognized as the best pollinator for all “dwarfs”. For him, it is recommended to plant Anise Sverdlovsky as a pollinator. The variety has good resistance to scab and tolerates frosty winters without problems, suitable for cultivation in all zones of Russia.

The tree is low-growing (natural “dwarf”), the crown is formed in a horizontal plane, almost spreading along the ground. The fruits are large, larger than average in size, some weigh up to 200 g. The shape of the apples is flat-round, the main color is yellow-green, and as they ripen, a rich bright red blush appears.

The fruit pulp is juicy, with a fine-grained structure, sweet and sour taste, with a pleasant aftertaste. Sweet desserts are prepared from them: jams, preserves, compotes, juices, mousses, etc. Apples can be stored for up to a month, which is unusual for early varieties.

Variety Sun

The late autumn variety Solnyshko, bred more than 20 years ago, has gained popularity due to its high yield, long shelf life, and ability to withstand severe frosts and winds. In addition, he is immune to scab.

The crown of the apple tree is rounded, not very thick. The fruits grow to a medium size, have an oblong-oblique shape, and the skin is smooth and oily. The main color of the fruits is greenish-yellow; as they ripen, they turn yellow and a crimson blush appears on them.

The pulp is white, with rare creamy inclusions, juicy and dense. Apples have a sweet and sour taste, with a rich aftertaste. They can be stored for a long time, practically without losing their taste. The fruits are consumed both fresh and processed.