Methods of combating diseases and pests of onions and measures for their prevention

The most effective recipes for growing onions

Onion is a herbaceous perennial, a generic representative (there are more than 1000 species in the genus) of the Onion (Amaryllidaceae) family. They began to grow the crop more than 5 thousand years ago.

Reference. The father of medicine, Hippocrates, in his essays “On a Healthy Lifestyle” and “On Diet for Acute Diseases” described the healing properties of the plant. The ancient Romans considered onions a mandatory food item for warriors. The medieval scientist Avicenna pointed out the antiseptic and disinfectant properties of the vegetable.

Along with tomatoes, cucumbers, beets, carrots, and zucchini, onions are a favorite and, perhaps, the most consumed agricultural crop. Without onions, any dishes (salads, sauces, soups, culinary delights made from meat and fish) lose their taste and piquancy.

Growing onions in your dacha is a simple matter. But at the same time, it is important to know the intricacies of growing a plant.

Varieties suitable for planting before winter

The regionalization of the variety is important. Southern heat-loving onion species are not suitable for winter planting . Typically, onion sets (or nigella), grown last year from seeds, are perfectly adapted to winter sowing.

Popular onion varieties for winter planting:

• Stuttgarter Riesen - small onions, has a sharp taste, and stores well.
• Onion Radar, or Raider , has a spicy taste and stores well.
• Sturon is a spicy onion variety that stores well.
• Shakespeare is not as spicy as Stuttgarter Riesen, it stores a little worse, but the onions are larger.
• Senshui onion is a sharp, large variety, suitable for long-term storage.
• Danilovsky - sharp, well stored, smallish.
• Red Baron onion is a spicy onion, a variety for long-term storage.
• Strigunovsky is sharp and stores well, but is small.
• Ellan onions are sweet in taste and store well.
• Arzamas - spicy, fits well, smallish bulbs.

Selecting the time to plant seedlings in the spring

The timing of planting onion sets is the end of April, the beginning of May, depending on the climatic characteristics of the region.
If you delay planting too much, the moisture that the plant needs at first will evaporate from the ground. Overdrying the soil will affect the quality of seedlings. Read about planting onions before winter here. In some regions this can be done starting in mid-March. However, you should remember an important rule when working with onion seeds - for sowing you need to take only last year’s seeds. This is due to the fact that nigella has a short shelf life. To disinfect, seeds are dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 1-2 days. Then the seeds are hardened by dipping alternately in warm water and then in cold water. This link will tell you about planting onion sets in the fall.

Onions are not a very moisture-loving crop, so the bed must be formed so that excess moisture does not accumulate on it. The soil must be fertile and loose. Onion sets, for example, will not be able to grow in clay soil.

Onion sets are processed immediately before planting, which usually occurs in the spring. Most often, the planting period occurs at the end of April or the beginning of May, but in the southern regions it can begin to be planted as early as March. The main thing is that the temperature is set at 10°C. Do not plant bulbs in unheated soil or at higher temperatures.

Some gardeners plant some onions before winter to get an earlier harvest.

Such onions are unsuitable for long-term storage and are consumed during the summer season, but they ripen several weeks earlier. Planting is done in the fall, usually at the end of October or beginning of November at ground temperatures of 2... 4°C. You should check the weather forecast in advance and plant the bulbs 3-4 weeks before the expected frost so that it takes root properly, but does not sprout.

Important! You should not plant onions in winter if your region has little snow, severe winters or frequent thaws. In these cases, crops may die, and no treatment will help.

Preparation of planting material in the southern regions begins at the end of February, in the northern regions - at the end of March.

Nigella is subjected to wet processing immediately before sowing - then there is no need to dry it, it is enough to bring it to a free-flowing state. Repeated soaking and drying reduces the germination of seed.

Methods for processing onions before winter planting

Why process onions before planting? First of all, to protect against diseases and pests. Both for autumn (before winter) sowing and for spring planting, planting material must be carefully and gradually prepared. Let's look at the stages of preparation and processing options for onion sets step by step.

First of all, it is important to correctly sort the planting bulbs and prepare them for planting:

• planting material does not need to be immediately sent from cold storage to a warm place; a sharp change in temperature entails bolting of the bulbs; for 3-4 days it is transferred to a pantry or cool room for adaptation;
• onion sets can be bought in the store; seed material is purchased 3-4 weeks in advance to prepare for planting;
• sorting onions - small fraction (up to 2 cm) for planting on turnips, large onions - only for greens.

Important: the optimal size of the diameter of the planting bulb is no more than 2-2.5 cm.

Temperature method

The bulbs need to be warmed up to start all growth processes and destroy infections and viruses. The procedure is carried out in mid-April, 2 weeks before sowing:

• bulbs are scattered near a heat source;
• the best option is on the battery (pre-lay a fabric layer of 2-3 cm);
• warm-up temperature range – 40-45C;
• Heat treatment time is at least 8-10 hours.

After warming up, the bulbs are sent to “rest” for a period of 10-14 days .

At the beginning of May or in the last ten days of April, onions are planted in open ground.

Attention! Onions require heated soil when planting; the optimal soil temperature is at least 10C.

Salt solution

For germination (feather emergence) of onion sets you need:

• within 3 days, clear dry scales; the protective “shell” prevents germination and development of the root system;
• cut off the dry tops without touching the green sprouts; safely cut off the tails with scissors;
• soak the seed in warm water for a day;
• remove the remnants of the scales; when soaked, the remnants of the covering “shirt” can be easily removed;
• place the prepared onions in the saline solution.

Preparation of saline solution for onions:

1. dissolve 3-3.5 tbsp. l. sea ​​or regular salt in 5 liters of water;
2. pour the solution into clean bulbs;
3. processing time – at least 3 hours;
4. Rinse the bulbs thoroughly with warm water (change the water 3-4 times).

Attention! If treatment is skipped, you need to water the beds with a saline solution at the very beginning of the season at the rate of 250-300 g of salt per 9-10 liters of water.

Potassium permanganate solution

To treat seed sets, a manganese solution is used as a disinfectant antifungal agent. Both purchased and homemade materials are processed.

Prepare a concentrated solution of manganese of dark purple color. Soak the planting bulbs in it for 25-30 minutes , and then rinse them with warm, clean water.

After processing, the bulbs are dried at room temperature.

From the experience of experts. The best way to prepare an onion is to cover the soaked and processed onions with protective cling film . It is advisable to leave the closed bulbs overnight in a cool room.

Alternative Processing Method

Instead of salt and manganese, special antifungal drugs are used:

• Maxim or Maxim Dachnik;
• Fitosporin;
• Zircon or Epin.

Pests dangerous to crops

It would seem that the pungent juice of onions and its pungent smell should repel the vast majority of pests. But this is absolutely not true. There are insects that “specialize” in a given crop. And there are quite a lot of them.

Onion fly

Most often it affects onions grown from seeds - their plantings are denser, and it is easier for the larvae to move from diseased plants to healthy ones. Also at particular risk are specimens that have already suffered from rot or nematodes. A characteristic sign of pest invasion is the wilting of the plant, usually at the base of the first leaf. Then the larvae infect the neck and move into the bulb itself. The last one is rotting.

Density of plantings promotes faster spread of onion fly larvae

The mass flight of insects begins at the junction of April and May. This is signaled by the flowering of cherries, lilacs and bird cherry. Female individuals leave clutches of eggs in the soil near the bulbs or in the axils of the leaves. During this period, it is useful to pour the onion with salt solution (200 g per 10 l) three times with an interval of 6–8 days. In no case should you exceed the concentration or increase the frequency of treatments - nothing will grow in saline soil for a long time.

Onion fly larvae eat the inside of the onion

For prevention, the soil in the garden bed is dusted with a mixture of tobacco dust, wood ash and ground chili pepper or dry mustard 1.5–2 weeks after planting the onions. Or, during the spring loosening of the bed, you can add Medvetox, Muhoed, and Zemlin granules to the soil. The soil is mulched with pine needles, the plants are sprayed with ammonia diluted with water, vinegar essence, and pieces of cloth soaked in kerosene and turpentine are laid out not far from the bed. The best effect in combating the pest is provided by drugs containing metronidazole - Inta-Vir, Aktara, Iskra-Bio, Karate.

Carrots planted nearby effectively repel onion flies. And the onion itself has a similar effect on the carrot fly. But garlic, lettuce, and tulips are bad neighbors and predecessors.

Video: how to get rid of onion flies

shallot aphid

Adult insects are brown-black, while the larvae are dark yellow or greenish. They attack the plant, as a rule, en masse, sucking out the juice. It is not difficult to notice such “colonies”. The leaves become deformed, curling into a spiral, covered with small discolored spots, then turn yellow completely. A black powdery coating appears on the surface - sooty fungus, insect excrement and shed skins of molted larvae.

Shallot aphids cling to onion leaves in entire colonies

Aphids and ants form an effective symbiosis. Therefore, it will not be possible to remove aphids if measures are not taken to destroy both of them at the same time.

Aphids and ants form a stable symbiosis; it is impossible to get rid of some without removing others from the garden plot.

For prevention, marigolds, calendula, mint, sage, and coriander are planted next to the onion bed. Plants are sprayed weekly with an infusion of colloidal sulfur, mustard powder, hot pepper, and wood ash. They will also help to cope with the problem if the aphids have not yet multiplied in abundance. Only the frequency of treatments will have to be increased daily. The most common universal-purpose insecticides - Inta-Vir, Mospilan, Tanrek, Actellik, Confidor-Maxi - will help you get rid of shallot aphids.

Video: ways to combat aphids

Tobacco thrips

Despite the name, which hints at the pest’s love for plants from the Solanaceae family in general and tobacco in particular, it also does not disdain onions. Thin longitudinal silver-gray strokes and small black “sticks” appear on the leaves. Then they become completely whitish or almost translucent, wrinkle and dry out. The bulbs stop growing, the fleshy scales become rough to the touch and also dry out. The highest concentration of individuals is observed closer to the base of developed leaves - on young, newly formed leaves, and on already dying ones.

Tobacco thrips feeds not only on plants from the Solanaceae family; onions are also quite suitable for them

To combat the pest, the drugs Aktara, VDG, Zeon, Karate are used. “Double” treatments are carried out with an interval of no more than 7 days in order to destroy both existing thrips and those that hatch from already laid eggs. The insecticide has no effect on the latter.

Small black dots on onion leaves are thrips

Onion secretive proboscis (weevil)

A small glossy black bug that glows greenish-bronze in the sun. With the help of an elongated “proboscis” it sucks juice from plants. The larvae bite into the tissues of leaves and inflorescences, eating them away from the inside. They become covered with multiple whitish spots, dry out, and the entire plant dies. In the vast majority of cases, onions planted with seeds suffer from the weevil. To avoid pest attacks, after planting you will need to regularly loosen the soil. He successfully winters in the garden. During the loosening process, the soil is sprinkled with mustard powder and ground pepper.

The onion secretive bug is a rather nice bug, but it causes significant harm to plantings

For prevention during May-July, when pest activity reaches its peak, onions are regularly sprayed with infusions of tansy and celandine. Later, potato and tomato tops can be used as raw materials. Among the onions, you can plant a little baton as bait. Its leaves are juicier, and the pest likes it more. Then the greens are simply cut off, simultaneously getting rid of insects. The best effect in the fight against weevils is given by Karate, Decis, Thiophos, Metaphos.

The bow-bow is preferred by the secretive proboscis; it can be used as bait

Onion moth

The adult onion moth is a small brownish butterfly, the larva is a greenish-yellow caterpillar covered with short, sparse bristles. The main damage to onion plantings is caused by the latter. They penetrate the leaves and eat them from the inside. From the outside, long oblong protrusions resembling tunnels are noticeable. They also damage the buds by eating away the flower ovaries and the bulb itself.

The onion moth is a rather inconspicuous butterfly that is predominantly nocturnal.

Females lay eggs en masse in late May. To scare them away from planting, the beds are sprayed with a solution of Lepidocide, Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin. A good effect is achieved by hanging adhesive tape nearby to catch flies or homemade traps - pieces of cardboard, smeared with something sticky and takes a long time to dry (vaseline, honey), cut plastic bottles filled with jam diluted with water, sugar syrup. But at night, a light source is placed not far from the traps. Onion moths are active mainly in the dark.

The main damage to onion plantings is caused by onion moth larvae

To destroy the larvae, the drugs Iskra Zolotaya, Dachnik, Metafos, and Enzhio are used. If there are still few caterpillars, folk remedies are also suitable - infusion of pine needles, chili pepper pods, wormwood, calendula.

Onion mite

Small arachnids, which are almost impossible to notice with the naked eye. Their body is translucent, like cloudy glass, and their legs are brownish. In addition to onions, the pest's area of ​​interest includes potatoes, beets, carrots and any bulbous flowers (irises, gladioli, hyacinths, tulips, daffodils). The most suitable weather for ticks is heat and lack of precipitation. It feeds on the sap of leaves, on which vague yellowish spots and a whitish coating appear. Then they become deformed and dry out.

The onion mite loves warm weather and dry air.

The mite can also infect bulbs that have already been stored. It penetrates into them through thinner tissues at the bottom, then eats away the scales from the inside. They become covered with a brown, rotten coating, rot from the inside and dry out from the outside.

The onion mite is not an insect, so to combat it it is necessary to use special preparations - acaricides

To prevent infection, onions are soaked in a solution of colloidal sulfur before planting. Folk remedies are ineffective, with the exception of a decoction of cyclamen tubers. But stocking up on raw materials in the required volume is quite problematic. The tick does not tolerate high air humidity at all. Therefore, it is useful to periodically sprinkle the onions or irrigate the greens from a watering can.

The pest is not an insect, so general insecticides are useless in combating it. Special preparations are needed - acaricides (Neoron, Rogor-S, Binom, Apollo, Vertimek, Omite). The treatment is carried out 3-4 times, changing the product to prevent the ticks from developing immunity. The frequency of procedures (5–12 days) depends on the air temperature - the hotter it is, the faster the reproduction process occurs.

Stem nematode

In addition to onions, garlic is also striking. Very thin, small (they can only be seen under a microscope) worms penetrate inside through the roots and suck out the juice, gradually moving up the neck. They poison the tissues with their own enzymes and waste products, so the plant dies quite quickly. There are often up to several thousand nematodes in one bulb. The leaves bend and droop, the bulbs become looser and crack. After rain, a characteristic smell of rot appears. The scales on the cut are thickened, as if granular.

It is impossible to see stem nematodes with the naked eye.

Nematodes die at temperatures above 45ºС, so the onions must be soaked before planting. Instead of plain water, plantings are watered with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate every 1.5–2 weeks. Nemabact granules are added to the soil while loosening the bed in the spring. During the active growing season, plantings are treated with Abamectin 2–3 times.

Stem nematodes not only feed on onion tissues, but also infect them, so the plant dies quite quickly

Video: how to get rid of nematodes

Onion hoverfly (root beetle)

The pest is very similar in appearance to the onion fly, only slightly larger. Other differences (smaller eggs, an elongated “waist”, the presence of “spikes” on the body) can only be recognized by a professional entomologist. The peak activity of adult individuals occurs at the end of June and the first ten days of July. The larvae penetrate the bulb and eat it from the inside, provoking the development of rot. They also damage beets, potatoes, tomatoes, and ornamental plants from the Liliaceae and Iris families.

Bulbs affected by hoverflies quickly rot

Like the onion fly, the hoverfly cannot tolerate the smell of carrots at all. For prevention, Bazudin granules are added to the soil during planting; at the end of May, the plantings are sprayed with Inta-Vir, Karate solution. The beds are dusted with a mixture of naphthalene, wood ash and slaked lime. In case of mass pest invasion, Thiophos is used. But it is advisable not to let this happen, the drug is highly toxic. The treatment is carried out without neglecting personal protective equipment.

Placing onions and carrots nearby is a very good solution; they protect each other from some dangerous pests

To speed up the growth of onions and have time to harvest before the pest begins to be as active as possible, it is fed with a solution of urea (15–20 g per 10 liters of water). Consumption rate - 3 l/m².

Onion cracker

The pest can be easily identified by its feathers, which are perforated through and through. The characteristic symptom most often appears in mid-summer. If you don’t do anything, all that will be left of them is “stumps.” The insects are small (no more than 8 mm long), painted in a bright red-orange color. This is the reason for the popular nickname “fireman beetle”. The larvae are off-white, with a black head and legs. Both they and adults feed on onions.

Onion rattle is very visible on plants

For prevention, during May and June, the onions and the bed are sprayed with an infusion of wormwood, yarrow, and horsetail rhizomes. If there are still few bugs, you can collect them manually, fortunately, they are clearly visible against the background of greenery, or shake them off onto a spread cloth or oilcloth. It is more convenient to carry out the procedure in the early morning, when insects are least active. To destroy the pest, use the drugs Karate, Decis, Tagore, Mospilan.

Onions are caused noticeable damage by both adults and rattler larvae.

scoop

The pest is distinguished by its rare omnivorous nature, attacking the vast majority of garden crops. The main damage to plants is caused by cutworm larvae, which can gnaw off all the greenery in a matter of days. Then they move on to the bulb itself, eating it away from the inside. Damaged specimens quickly rot.

It is very rare to spot a moth during the day

The insect is predominantly nocturnal. The adult moth is a small butterfly whose wings are colored in different shades of brown. They are also characterized by the presence of transverse whitish stripes. The larva is green, sometimes with a grayish or yellowish tint, very rarely pinkish or brown.

Noctuid caterpillars are distinguished by their rare omnivorousness and gluttony.

To prevent adult individuals from laying eggs in the garden bed, they resort to the same preventive measures that are recommended for repelling onion moths. But in this case it is better to fill the traps with beer or fermented yeast. You can also spray the beds with infusions of tobacco leaves and celandine. The help of chemicals (Decis, Arrivo, Sherpa, Tsitkor) is resorted to only in the event of a massive invasion of caterpillars. In the fall, the bed must be dug deeply - the pupated larvae overwinter in the soil.

Video: fighting the cutworm in the garden

Onions are a widespread crop in Russian gardens. But not everyone is able to reap a rich harvest. This is influenced by individual flaws in agricultural technology, but more often the cause is fungal, viral diseases or pest attacks. Contrary to popular belief, onions have quite a lot of them. Therefore, it is worth studying the symptoms in advance in order to be able to identify the problem and know what to do in each specific case.

• Author: Yulia Golova
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Rules for preparing soil for planting onions

As a basic fertilizer, special fertilizers are applied in the fall or spring for digging or plowing. Granules or powder are evenly scattered over the surface, and then, when loosening or digging, they are buried by 10-12 cm.

hand planting set onion in the vegetable garden

Mandatory nitrogen fertilizing:

1. Urea (urea) . Water the beds with the working solution for winter onions and garlic, as well as in the spring before planting or sowing onions. Consumption – 3-4 liters of working solution per 1 sq. m, based on 1 tbsp. l for 9-10 liters of water.
2. Ammonium nitrate (ammonium nitrate) . Enriches the soil with nitrogen (more than 30%). The dosage is identical to urea - 10-15 g per 10 liters of water. The fertilizer is suitable for both winter onions and spring planting.

Complex fertilizer mixtures:

1. Azofoska or nitroammofoska - as part of NPK - a complex of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium in an equal ratio of 16:16:16. Good fertilizer for autumn and spring. Feature - on average, it increases soil fertility by 20-30%.
2. “Onion and Garlic” , Fusco. Economical consumption - 70-150 g per 1 sq. m, depending on the condition, structure and type of soil. For fertile cultivated soil, it is enough to add 60-70 g per 1 square meter. m.

Onion per feather (for greens)

It is highly undesirable to pinch off green feathers from onions intended for storage (turnips) . The bulb suffers, the fruit does not receive enough nutrition.

To grow onions for greens (feathers), special beds are allocated . The growth of green mass is provided by nitrogen. With the appearance of the first leaves, you need to feed the plants with aqueous solutions of urea or ammonium nitrate.

To ensure that the feather is healthy, juicy and grows quickly, phosphorus and potassium (a solution of superphosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium chloride) are added.

Supporters of eco-farming use organic fertilizers:

• bird droppings are a powerful fertilizer, applied only in the fall in diluted form;
• mullein (manure) – use a weakly concentrated mixture in a ratio of 1:7;
• compost - spread into ridges during planting or embedded in the soil during autumn plowing;
• ash - all onion plants absorb phosphorus and potassium well from natural additives, use them as the main fertilizer and with subsequent feedings up to 3-4 times.

To prevent fungal and viral diseases, it is important to apply trichoderma-based products (the competitive environment of ascomycete fungi) in the fall or spring before planting, under a layer of mulch.

The choice in the line of drugs is huge:

• Sporobacterin;
• Trichoderma;
• Atlant;
• Fungilex;
• Trichocin;
• Trichoflor;
• Glyocladin.

The funds are applied again at the very beginning of the growing season using the hole method. Consumption rates and dosage are indicated in the instructions for the drug.

General information about onion diseases

There are many onion diseases that can deprive us of our harvest. All of them are divided into fungal and viral. Fungal spores live in the soil, bulbs, and plant debris. They manifest themselves in different ways, but have the same nature, multiply in conditions of high humidity, and are treated with the same methods. Viruses live only in living tissues, cannot be treated, and are spread by insects. This means that their occurrence can be prevented by carrying out pest control.

You cannot get both greens and heads from the same plant at the same time. When growing turnips, do not pluck out the feathers; each leaf forms the scale of the head. In addition, at the point where the onion is picked or cut, it becomes vulnerable to disease.

Onion care and fertilizing

General rules for care and cultivation:

1. Choose a sunny location on the plot for the crop; shade, dampness are the favorite environment for the onion fly;
2. the distance between rows is at least 20 cm; the sun's rays should fall on each bush, it is the red spectrum of rays that contributes to the formation of a large bulb;
3. regular loosening and abundant watering are mandatory procedures in the first half of the season;
4. In shooting varieties, the shoots are broken off, used in salads, and frozen.

First feeding

Urea granules are scattered over the soil surface when the first shoots appear. The average consumption rate is 1 tbsp. l. granules (17-20 g) per 1 sq. m.

Garlic is fertilized in the same way as soon as it begins to hatch. Application period: early spring.

Summer feeding

During the summer, you need to do two feedings for the formation of the bulb and the formation of a dense peel:

1. during the period of appearance of the first pair of feathers;
2. during the preparation of the plant for fruiting (bulb formation).

Gardeners recommend preparing a “Country Cocktail” at home - a concentrated fermenting solution based on nettles and yeast. This mixture is suitable for fertilizing garden flowers, berry bushes, fruit trees, vegetables and root crops.

Preparation of a concentrated nutrient mixture for onion growth:

• Place a plastic bag in a container (barrel) with a volume of 200-250 liters and spread it around the perimeter, wrap the edges over the sides of the container;
• densely lay a layer of nettle on the bottom equal to 1/3 of the volume of the barrel;
• the grass is prematurely withered, it can be cut into pieces of 10-15 cm (to lose the volume of the grass);
• add 1 garden bucket of fine manure or humus from the first year;
• pour half a bucket (or a little more) of sifted wood ash into a container;
• crumble and add 1 kg of fresh baker's yeast;
• pour 3-5 liters of whey into a container;
• Fill the container with water to the top, stir the ingredients thoroughly;
• Cover the top tightly with a transparent film, secure the edges, leave small windows for air access;
• an important condition - the fermentation plant matures only in the sun, the container is installed behind the house in a well-lit place;
• stir the mixture 1-2 times a day;
• preparation time – 12 -14 days.

Attention! If there is no homemade organic matter (humus, manure), the ingredient can be replaced with store-bought granulated organic matter.

Feeding method:

• Strain 2 liters of the mother solution;
• prepare a working solution - add 2 liters of concentrated mixture to 8 liters of water;
• on spilled beds, apply a diluted solution (0.5-1 l) at the root of each plant.

Important: yeast-based fertilizers in their pure form are not suitable for onions, garlic and potatoes.

For potassium deficiency

Attention! The tips of the onion feathers turn yellow, dry out and slightly bend - a sign of a lack of potassium in the soil.

A quick way to feed onions with potassium sulfate:

• 1 tbsp. l. dilute potassium sulfate in 1 liter of water;
• add 8-9 liters of clean warm water;
• pour the solution under the roots of the plants.

How to properly prepare the soil and cultivate beds

Before planting, it is necessary to prepare the soil and beds. This is usually done in the autumn immediately after the last harvest. Preparatory work consists of the following steps:

1. Remove any remaining vegetation.
2. Dig up the area for planting.
3. When digging the soil, add compost - 6–7 kg per 1 m² or rotted manure.
4. Add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to the soil at the rate of 30 g per 1 m².

If the above work is not carried out in the autumn, then it must be carried out in the spring.

On the eve of the landing itself, it is necessary to carry out the following activities:

1. Dig up the area and level it using a rake.
2. Water the area with copper sulfate (1 tbsp per 10 liters of water per 1 m²) to prevent fungal diseases. The solution must be heated to a temperature of at least 50°C.
3. Cover the top with film to enhance the result.

When planting this vegetable for the winter, the bed is dug up and fertilizers are applied a month before planting in the soil. If the soil on the site is acidic, it must be limed, that is, add chalk or lime.

Onions require loose, well-drained soil. The crop has a long growing season - so that the onions can grow early and ripen before the onset of cold weather, choose a warm place.

For growing seeds, make beds 12-15 cm high and no more than 1 m wide. Humus or compost in the amount of 1-2 buckets per 1 m² is added for autumn digging.

In the spring, mineral fertilizers are applied during deep digging:

• ammonium nitrate – 15-20 g/m²;
• superphosphate – 25-30 g/m²;
• potassium chloride – 10-15 g/m².

A garden mixture containing a complex of mineral fertilizers is applied in an amount of 70-100 g/m².

Dig up, level the surface and water with a warm solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 2 liters per 1 m². Cover with film and after 2-3 days sow the onions in furrows 2 cm deep.

The soil for sowing turnips is prepared in the same way as for seeds, while increasing the dose of mineral fertilizers by 2 times.

The soil is loosened, the surface is leveled, and transverse furrows are made. Sprinkle generously with a mixture of tobacco dust and sifted wood ash (1:1), and then spill with warm water. After this, the seedlings are planted and covered with nutritious loose soil. A mixture of tobacco dust and ash protects young plants from damage by onion flies.

Excessive deepening of the sets during planting, and of the seeds during sowing, leads to an extension of the growing season - a thick neck is formed on the bulb, which may result in thinning of the crops and a decrease in yield.

It is at this stage that it is recommended to fertilize the soil; it is best to apply the bulk of fertilizers in winter, so that there is time for the “assimilation” of nutrients. You cannot add (drain) manure and lime into the soil at the same time - this reduces the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer. In autumn, the bed is dug up or plowed deeply (to a depth of 20 cm) so that oxygen gets into the deep layers of the soil.

When digging, the required amount of fertilizer is applied. For each type of soil, fertilizing is selected individually. If the soil is highly acidic, use one of the following components: wood ash, ground chalk, dolomite flour, lime, and salted soda mixture. The optimal soil acidity for onion sets is pH 6.4-7.9.

This material will tell you about growing onions in open ground.

If the bed has not been ready since the fall, then all the same work will have to be done in the spring. To do this, when digging the beds for onion sets, add 2-3 kg of humus (namely humus, not fresh manure) to the soil - this is from organic fertilizers. If we talk about mineral fertilizers, the best ones are superphosphate (0.44-0.5 kg per 10 square meters of area) and sodium sulfate (0.2-0.3 kg). Application is also made during digging. On clay soils, it is advisable to add sand at the rate of 7-10 kg per square meter of sown area.

When preparing a bed for sowing onions, you need to take into account its predecessors. Crop rotation is especially important for this crop, so bulbs should not be planted in the same place where they grew before. The bad predecessors of onions are:

• garlic;
• carrot;
• greenery;
• spices.

The seedlings grow well after:

• cabbage;
• cucumbers;
• legumes;
• green manure.

The beds for planting onions are prepared in the fall. Add rotted manure at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m2 and dig it well. Considering onions’ dislike for acidic soils, it is advisable to add wood ash or dolomite flour to the soil. This measure will not only deoxidize the soil, but also enrich it with many useful microelements. Mineral fertilizers are not applied during digging, since onions are very sensitive to high concentrations of salts. It is better to use them as top dressing during the growing season.

For disinfection, the filled and dug up bed is spilled with a solution of Fitosporin (5 g of powder per 10 liters of water). This procedure can be repeated in the spring, before planting.

Seeds processed and planted according to all the rules will delight you with healthy feathers and large bulbs

My method of preparing onion sets for planting is simple but effective. 2 weeks before the intended planting, I sort the bulbs, clean them of excess husks, cut off the dry ends and lay them out to dry. We live in a private house and use a water heating boiler. It is always warm, the temperature on the surface is maintained at about 40°C - an ideal place for warming up the bulbs.

After 2 weeks, I soak the seeds in Fitosporin-M solution. Unlike regular Fitosporin in powder form, this drug has the consistency of a dark brown paste. But what is important is that it is enriched with humic acids, nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus (it is always written on the packaging what additives are included in the preparation).

Therefore, by soaking the bulbs in a solution of Fitosporin-M, I simultaneously disinfect the seed and stimulate further growth. The beneficial bacteria contained in the preparation kill pathogens of bacterial and fungal diseases, and humic additives and microelements not only have a stimulating effect, but also increase plant immunity.

I plant the bulbs soaked for 24 hours in prepared beds. The onion turns out excellent - it doesn’t get sick and doesn’t turn yellow ahead of time. Fitosporin-M is economical - to prepare a working solution, 200 g of paste is diluted in 400 ml of water. There is a very important nuance here - chlorinated tap water will kill all beneficial microorganisms, so it cannot be used. To soak the bulbs, I dilute 1 tbsp. l. working solution in 1 liter of water from an artesian well.

Despite its simplicity, growing onions cannot be neglected. By spending very little time and effort preparing seeds for planting, you can prevent the appearance of diseases and pests in the future, and therefore reduce the effort when growing a crop. Pre-sowing seed treatment is easy and not burdensome; even a beginner can handle it.

Control of pests and diseases of onions

Problems of onion cultivation - damage by diseases and pests:

• Onion fly - insect larvae eat the onion from spring to mid-summer;
• Thrips are harmful fringed-winged insects that gather on the bottom;
• Peronosporosis (downy mildew) - the infection affects the aerial part (feathers).
• Cervical rot is a fungus that appears during crop storage.

Ways to get rid of pests

In practice, fungicides, biological products and publicly available folk remedies are used.

Soap solutions

Regular (cheapest) washing powder will save you from onion flies and thrips.

Reference. Soap and powder solutions activate the release of carbon dioxide, the process of “seething” of the soil starts, the soil becomes loose and moisture-absorbing. Chemical components disinfect the soil and destroy pest larvae.

Recipe for soap solution for processing onions and garlic:

1. pour a full handful of powder into a garden bucket;
2. dilute until completely dissolved in 10 liters of warm water;
3. There is no need to shake the solution until foamy.

Processing method:

• pre-sprinkle the ridges generously with clean water or carry out treatment after rain;
• use a ladle (not a watering can) to pour under the root of each plant (on average 1 liter of solution per 1 bush);
• after 30-40 minutes, using a watering can with a sieve, wash off the solution from the above-ground part;
• the main thing is that the solution does not remain on the surface of the feather and bulb (the sun will leave burns);
• the procedure is repeated 2-3 times.

Foliar treatment of onions with Fitoverm against garden pests

Reference. Fitoverm is a domestic biological product, an insectoacaricide based on Aversectin S. Its intended purpose is the destruction of thrips, mites, aphids, cutworms, Colorado potato beetles, carrot and onion flies, and secretive proboscis (weevil). Available in packages of 2, 5, 20 ml.

The procedure is simple:

• prepare the solution immediately before use;
• stock solution – dissolve 1-2 ml of the drug in 2 liters of water;
• working solution – while stirring the concentrate, add 10 liters of clean water;
• fill the sprayer;
• Spray the onion thoroughly;
• repeat treatment after 7-8 days;
• The consumption rate and processing mode are suitable for carrots and garlic.

Diseases characteristic of onions

Diseases affect onions both during the active growing season and during storage. Prevention should never be neglected. After all, while fungal diseases can still be dealt with, at the moment there are simply no remedies against bacteria and viruses.

Powdery mildew

Almost all garden crops suffer from this pathogenic fungus, onions are no exception. Most often, the pathogen is transmitted through seeds. If you do nothing, you can lose at least half of the harvest. Factors favorable to infection are dense plantings, shaded beds, waterlogged soil, and frequent rains.

Powdery mildew is one of the most common diseases in the garden.

The first symptoms appear already in April-May. The leaves become covered with greenish-yellow spots, gradually acquiring a grayish-purple tint and becoming covered with a layer of powdery whitish coating, reminiscent of spilled flour. These spots are especially noticeable in the early morning, when the dew has not yet dried. The plaque gradually changes color to pinkish-brown and thickens. The leaves become fragile, droop, and the bulbs stop growing. There are varieties with increased resistance to fungus - Stimul, Antey, Kasatik, Centurion, Stuttgarten Riesen.

There are no onion varieties with “innate” immunity to powdery mildew, but there are varieties that resist the fungus more successfully than others

To prevent infection, seeds and onion heads must be kept in hot (40–42ºС) water or a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate for 6–8 hours before planting. Then for 15–20 minutes they are immersed in a biofungicide solution (Baktofit, Polyram, Fitolavin, Alirin-B).

After harvesting, the bed is loosened (it’s better to dig it up) and all plant debris is carefully collected. Crop rotation is also very important - onions are planted in the same area for a maximum of 3-4 years in a row, then a break of the same length is required. It is not advisable to plant it after parsley, beets, garlic, flowers from the Liliaceae and Iris families.

Each time you loosen a bed, it is useful to scatter crushed chalk and sifted wood ash over its surface, and add a little potassium permanganate (2–3 g per 10 liters) to the water for irrigation at least once every 10–15 days. A folk remedy for prevention is diluted sour kefir or whey with the addition of a few drops of iodine. In autumn, the soil is watered with Horus or Oksikhom solution.

Having detected suspicious signs, the water rate for irrigation is reduced to the required minimum, and nitrogen-containing fertilizers and natural organic matter are stopped. Excess nitrogen in the soil negatively affects the plant’s immunity, and fungal spores overwinter well in manure.

Onions and beds are treated with a solution of Polycarbacin, Quadris, Topaz, Skor. Old proven remedies also help well - 1% copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture, but they cannot be used when onions are grown for feathers. If, after treating with the last two products, the feathers acquire a bluish tint, this is normal. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times with an interval of 7-12 days. It is useful to add liquid or grated soap (20–25 g per 10 l) or a couple of drops of glycerin to any solution - this way the compositions “stick” to the leaves better and the effect lasts longer.

Video: fighting powdery mildew in the garden

Downy mildew (downy mildew)

Onion leaves become covered with straw-yellow spots; as the disease develops, they acquire a smoky lilac hue. Feathers wither, become brittle, dry out and turn black. The fungus develops most quickly in cool, rainy weather. Other factors favorable to it are a lack of light and fresh air. The disease also affects the bulbs - they shrink and rot. The shelf life of the harvested crop is sharply reduced. If the summer is hot and dry, fungal infection is practically excluded. But the spores remain in the soil until the next season.

Infection of a plant with peronosporosis has a very negative effect on the keeping quality of the bulbs.

There are no varieties that are completely resistant to downy mildew, but Christina, Ellan, Odintsovets, Farmer, Oporto, and Stuttgarter Riesen suffer from it much less frequently. The same applies to interspecific hybrids (Sigma, Emerald, Golden Domes). Due to the discrepancy between development cycles, infection of early onions is practically excluded.

Preventive measures are the same as those used to prevent the development of powdery mildew. An infusion of nettle leaves, dandelion leaves, and any garden weeds in general also gives a good effect. It is also a comprehensive natural supplement. To combat downy mildew, Ridomil-Gold, Thanos, Abiga-Pik, and Poliram are used.

Nettle infusion is not only a complex natural fertilizer, but also an effective prevention of peronosporosis

Rust

The appearance of characteristic symptoms is observed only on the leaves. They become covered with pinkish-red “swellings”, and at the same time spots of bright saffron-yellow color with a fleecy surface appear. Gradually they thicken, the shade changes to terracotta orange and rusty brown, then turn black. The pathogen is transmitted in the vast majority of cases through the soil; fungal spores are characterized by very high frost resistance.

Rust in the garden mainly affects fruit trees and berry bushes, but onions can also suffer from it

For prevention, seeds and heads must be warmed before planting. The soil is shed 2–3 weeks before planting and after harvesting with a deep pink solution of potassium permanganate, 3% copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture, Nitrafen. To combat rust, the most common fungicides are used (HOM, Kaptan, Zineb).

Potassium permanganate solution is one of the most common disinfectants; it helps destroy fungal pathogens

Aspargillosis (black rot)

Affects bulbs during storage. Most often, those that suffer from fungus are those that were not dried before placing them in the basement, cellar, or other suitable place. Onions harvested unripe are also in the high-risk area. Failure to comply with storage conditions also contributes to the development of the disease - high temperatures and lack of ventilation favor the fungus.

The affected bulbs soften, the neck becomes discolored, and the scales at the top dry out. A fine black powder forms between them. In fact, it is a solid mass of fungal spores.

Onion aspargillosis develops due to non-compliance with storage conditions and improper preparation for it.

For prevention, 20–25 days before harvesting, the onions and soil in the garden are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride. The storage must be disinfected by wiping racks, shelves and any surfaces in general with a solution of slaked lime. Or you can burn a piece of sulfur bomb inside with the doors tightly closed.

A sulfur bomb helps to quickly disinfect a basement, cellar, or other storage

Before storing the bulbs, they are powdered with crushed chalk, wood ash, and colloidal sulfur. Particular care must be taken in the area where the leaves are cut. During the winter, onions are regularly inspected; specimens with suspicious signs are immediately discarded.

Video: how to properly store onions to avoid the development of rot

Gray cervical rot

Only bulbs that have already been harvested from the garden also suffer from this disease. Symptoms appear fairly quickly, during the first month of storage. It spreads, as the name suggests, from the neck. The outer scales dry and wrinkle, those underneath are covered with a layer of grayish plaque with small black inclusions. When cut, they are at first translucent (like a boiled onion), then turn brown. As the disease develops, the plaque moves down to the bottom in spots, the bulb becomes loose, and the tissue on the cut becomes pinkish.

Bulbs affected by gray rot are no longer suitable for food

The causative agent of the disease most often penetrates through mechanical damage, for example, during pruning of leaves. To avoid this, dip a knife or scissors into a deep purple solution of potassium permanganate after each cut is made. If you don’t clear the bed, it will overwinter well in plant debris. Most often, bulbs with a fleshy neck, harvested ahead of schedule, and those that are not sufficiently dried, suffer from gray rot.

Drying onions before storing is an effective prevention of gray rot of the neck

To minimize the risk of infection, the bulbs are dried for 9–10 days after harvesting in a room where the temperature is maintained at 28–33ºС and there is good ventilation. Equally important is compliance with storage conditions - air humidity 70–75% and temperature 1–3ºС. Before planting, the heads are etched in a TMTD or Thiram solution for 10–15 minutes. 7–10 days before harvesting, the bed is treated with a solution of Quadris, Bravo, Switch.

Fusarium (bottom rot)

When infected with fusarium, feathers turn yellow and dry out starting from the tips. The bulbs stop growing, and a layer of pinkish plaque, reminiscent of mold, forms at the neck. The roots and bottom turn black, become slimy to the touch, and give off an unpleasant putrid odor. When cut, the scales turn brown and mucus oozes from them. The most suitable microclimate for the development of fungus is heat and low humidity. It spreads through water, substrate, plant debris, and wind. Crop losses, if the fungus is not controlled, can be very significant - 70% or more.

The causative agent of fusarium penetrates the bulb through the roots, and they are the first to suffer

Fusarium can also affect onions stored for storage. In such specimens, the bottom softens, becomes translucent, and becomes covered with a layer of pinkish-yellow coating. Small pink “pads” form between the scales. Then the bulbs dry out, practically mummifying.

Fusarium-affected onions seem to wilt and dry out for no reason.

Treatment of the disease is complicated by the fact that it is impossible to detect it at the beginning of its development. Typical signs that make it possible to accurately verify the presence of fusarium appear when the disease has already gone far, the process is irreversible. For prevention, bulbs intended for planting must be pickled in a solution of Fundazol or Quadris. Regular water for irrigation is replaced every 1.5–2 weeks with a solution of any biofungicide (Maxim, Vitaros, Trichodermin, Previkur), reducing the concentration by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. Among folk remedies, you can use those that provide the prevention of powdery mildew. In autumn, the soil in the garden bed is watered with Ridomil-Gold and Acrobat-MC.

Fusarium can be distinguished from ordinary wilting due to too little watering by cutting off a few feathers or the entire plume. A fungal disease is characterized by the presence of small brown inclusions in the tissues - clogged blood vessels.

Video: combating fusarium blight on onions and garlic

Mosaic disease

A viral disease that, of course, will not kill onions, but will reduce the yield by 15–20%. Affected bulbs are edible; seeds, in principle, can be planted, but germination rate will be much lower than usual.

Onion feathers affected by mosaic disease turn into something resembling waves

Infected specimens are severely stunted in growth, feathers lie down, and flower stalks are deformed. The flowers become unnaturally larger and the petals grow together. Often small bulbs form in their place. The leaves become almost flat, a pattern of chaotically located small yellowish-white spots, specks, strokes, and, less often, concentric circles appears on them. The bulbs stretch in length.

To prevent the development of mosaic disease, it is necessary to specifically combat its carriers

There are currently no drugs developed for the treatment of mosaic. However, the virus is known to be transmitted by aphids, mites and nematodes. It is transmitted from diseased plants to healthy ones through sap and is stored in the bulbs.

The best prevention is proper agricultural technology (especially in the area of ​​watering), regular weeding of the beds, avoidance of dense plantings and crop rotation. We must not forget about the targeted fight against virus carriers.

Jaundice

Another viral disease that cannot be cured. The leaves and arrows turn yellow completely starting from the tips. The bulbs stop growing and no seeds are formed. For prevention, the same measures are used as for mosaics.

In plants affected by jaundice, the bulbs are deformed, do not reach the typical size for the variety, and are almost not stored

Stemphylliosis

Many agronomists consider it not an independent disease, but a secondary one, since most often bulbs that are already affected, for example, by downy mildew or Alternaria blight, suffer from stemphylliosis, especially if the weather is dry and warm outside. The disease develops towards the end of the growing season. Its pathogen successfully overwinters in plant debris and remains viable on bulbs throughout the entire storage period.

Onion stemphylliosis most often affects plants already weakened by some disease.

The leaves are covered with small yellowish-beige spots, gradually turning into elongated bulges filled with a cloudy viscous liquid. Then a darker border forms along the edge, and the surface is covered with a layer of black-brown plaque. The leaves turn yellow and break easily. The first to be affected are those that are already drying out and dying.

For prevention, the bed and the onion itself are treated once every 2-3 weeks with a solution of Acrobat-MC, Aliette, Quadris, Fandango. Folk remedies that prevent the development of peronosporosis and powdery mildew are also suitable. No special means have been developed to combat the disease, so it is better to simply remove the affected specimens from the garden bed and burn them, and disinfect the soil in this place by sprinkling it with a dark crimson solution of potassium permanganate or 3% copper sulfate.

Green moldy rot

It affects bulbs put away for storage if they received mechanical damage during the harvesting process or were frozen. “Wet” pale yellow spots appear on the surface of the scales, gradually changing color to blue-green and becoming covered with mold. When cut, the tissue contains visible inclusions of a greenish-brown hue. They soften from the inside, but the outside of the bulb remains hard. At the neck, the scales dry out, and a fine bluish powder, similar to dust, forms under them. Prevention of this disease is exactly the same as for other onion diseases that develop during storage.

To prevent the development of green moldy rot, it is very important to create optimal or close to optimal conditions for storing onions

General advice for gardeners

Experienced summer residents share the secrets of harvesting onions and preparing them for long-term storage

1. Timely harvesting is the key to keeping quality . If more than 50% of the above-ground part dies on its own (naturally), the bulbs are fully ripe, it’s time to dig them up. In this case, the covering scales should be golden or yellow, according to the varietal characteristics.
2. It is impossible to overexpose onions in the beds. The upper scales will begin to rot, and the roots from the bottom will begin to grow in a second circle. This crop does not last long.
3. Premature pulling out of bulbs will also affect the productivity and storage of the crop. If the upper scales are still light, while the neck is dense and thickened, the onion has not fully ripened. There is a risk of contracting neck rot.
4. After tearing out the onion, shake it off carefully; you cannot knock on it or hit it against each other . Mechanical damage is a source of infection with fungal rot and diseases. Sandy and sandy loam soils are easily shaken off. It is better to wash off lumps of heavy clay soil with water. In this case to dry the onions 2 times before storing them for winter storage.
5. If the “loose shirts” (upper covering scales) of the dug-up bulbs begin to rot , they are removed and the bulbs are sent to dry bare. The root shoots are cut off, leaving 1-2 cm. The ripening area should be ventilated, the temperature should be cool. The top layer will later turn brown.
6. It is recommended to dry the dug up bulbs with their roots facing up. You can build a special stand or use a fence or fence. The bulbs in small bunches of 7-9 pieces are threaded through the picket fence, the feather is lowered down. It is in this position that the entire nutritional supply from the tops will move into the bulb.

Chemical treatment for onion flies

In advanced cases, when preventive measures were not taken in a timely manner, chemicals have to be used. Their use is extremely undesirable, since onions tend to accumulate harmful substances and can be dangerous if consumed. When spraying with insecticides, it is necessary to follow the dosage indicated in the instructions, spraying should be carried out in the morning or evening in dry, windless weather, and also maintain the recommended waiting period. After chemical treatments, it is better not to use onion feathers at all.

Ammonia

Ammonia (an aqueous solution of ammonia) is a liquid with a pungent odor that is sold in pharmacies. It is a chemical preparation, but to a greater extent the use of this remedy to combat onion flies can be attributed to folk methods. There are no clear instructions for its use in the sources.

Ammonia with its pungent odor repels onion flies

There are various recommendations regarding the concentration of the solution: from one to five tablespoons per 10 liters of water. It is believed that to use the product for preventive purposes, it is enough to dilute 1–2 tablespoons of the drug; increasing the concentration is recommended if a significant number of plants are affected. Ten liters of solution will be enough to spill 2 m2 of planting. They begin to process the onions during the cherry blossom period, and then do this several more times with an interval of 7–10 days. The beds are first watered with clean water, then with a solution between the onion rows and again with clean water.

Video: ammonia treatment against onion fly

Metronidazole

These are antibacterial tablets used to treat people and can be bought at the pharmacy. Their use as a means of combating onion flies can most likely also be classified as folk remedies. Information about the concentration of the solution varies. The most common dosage is 4 tablets per 10 liters of water, but there are other options - from 5 to 10 tablets for the same amount of water. Metronidazole is used to combat fly larvae. The treatment is carried out once, when the feather has already become stronger and is at least 5 centimeters in height.

Some gardeners use metronidazole to control onion flies.

Reviews about the use of this remedy are contradictory. Some gardeners claim that the drug is effective against onion flies, while others have not received any results from the treatments.

I tried to look for information about watering onions with metronidazole against onion flies on the Internet, but I couldn’t find it, so I’ll share what I did myself. I was told that for 10 liters of water they use 10 metronidazole tablets. True, everyone does it differently; some use 5 tablets per 10 liters of water for irrigation. I decided that I would use the middle option. I crushed 5 tablets and poured the resulting powder into an 8-liter watering can. Stirred and poured the resulting solution on the onions. After 1.5 days, I picked a feather, looked and saw live onion fly larvae in it. I don’t know, either not enough time has passed, or I still needed to use 10 tablets per 10 liters of water, I’ll see what happens next.

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Metronidazole is a controversial drug not only regarding the concentration of the solution and its effectiveness in the fight against onion flies. When diluted with ten tablets in a bucket of water, or even one tablet, it can be hazardous to health.

Zemlin

The popular garden insecticide Zemlin is used during the planting of onions. The toxic activity of the drug lasts up to 60 days. The remedy against onion fly can be applied to the upper layers of the soil symptomatically when it is urgently needed. Zemlin is not toxic to humans. It is produced in the form of granular powder, which is scattered on the soil and then loosened. The consumption rate is 3 g/m2. For a more uniform distribution, the drug is used in a mixture with sand. A half-liter container is filled 3/4 with sand, 30 g of granules are added there and mixed. In case of mass infestation by pests, the drug is used for 2–4 seasons in a row until they disappear completely.

Zemlin is scattered on the beds during planting of onions, its effect lasts up to 60 days

Fly eater

The drug is successfully used to combat insects and onion fly larvae. The fly eater is considered harmless to the soil and beneficial organisms. Thanks to the aromatic bait, the pest eats it and dies within two to three days. After moistening (precipitation or watering), the active substance penetrates the plants and has a poisonous effect on flying insects. Therefore, the fly beetle is not used to treat onion plantings or is added to the soil in advance to withstand the waiting period before eating onion leaves. The drug is produced in the form of granules and is used once before planting onions. Its validity lasts for two months, this period is also a waiting period. The granules are scattered at the rate of 5 g/m2 at an air temperature of no higher than 25°C and the soil is loosened superficially.

The fly eater is effective against onion flies and is harmless to the soil and beneficial organisms

Inta-Vir

The popular and inexpensive insecticide Inta-Vir is moderately toxic and is successfully used by gardeners to combat onion flies. The solution is prepared at the rate of one tablet per 10 liters of water, it is used immediately after preparation. You can treat the beds with a regular watering can or with a spray bottle. Repeated treatment is allowed no earlier than 14 days. You should not eat vegetables for the same amount of time after using the drug. You can do no more than three treatments per season.

Inta-Vir is a popular insecticide with moderate toxicity, successfully used to control onion flies

Alatar

This product destroys almost all pests of garden and garden crops, including onion flies. The inclusion of two active poisons in Alatar provides the drug with a combined mechanism of action on the pest’s body, resulting in high mortality of its large-scale colonies. Alatar can be used twice, maintaining an interval of 10 days between treatments. The drug is used very rarely more than twice. The waiting period is 3 weeks. To prepare a working solution, 5 ml of the drug is diluted in 4 liters of water, this amount is enough to treat 100 m2. Alatar is not washed off by rainwater, and is also resistant to ultraviolet rays and high air temperatures.

Alatar contains two active poisons, which makes the drug highly effective against most pests

Creolin

Reviews about the effectiveness of this drug in the fight against onion flies are positive, even enthusiastic. However, Creolin is recommended to be used as a last resort when other methods do not give the desired result, since the product is very toxic. The drug is a viscous liquid with a pronounced pungent odor and consists of naphthalene, coal oil, and ichthyol. It is used by veterinarians as an antiparasitic agent.

Creolin is very toxic, so it is used with great caution

The instructions for creolin, sold in pharmacies, contain compositions for treating animals and premises against ticks and other parasites. Creolin is not on the list of approved drugs, but it is included in many pesticides. The most common dosage option in sources is 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. The first treatment can be carried out when the onion feathers reach a length of 8–10 cm, and repeated treatment after three weeks.

Pests in onion beds and their photos

Onion root mite

Onion root mite in the photo

The onion root mite everywhere damages onions in open and protected ground and storage areas. Mites predominantly inhabit damaged or diseased plants. In the affected bulbs, the outer surface of the succulent scales is covered with brownish dust, the bottom along the edges is thinned, and subsequently falls off, and roots do not form.

These pests are hardly noticeable in onion beds, since the mites are very small (0.5-1 mm). They penetrate the bulbs through the bottom. They spread with the remains of damaged plants, soil, and equipment.

Onion sneaker on a bow

Onion secretive proboscis in the photo

Western onion stalker - the larvae of the pest gnaw longitudinal whitish passages in the pulp of the leaves, visible through the skin. The larvae, up to 7 mm long, are yellowish, legless, with a brown head. As adults, they leave the leaves and go into the soil. At the end of July, black beetles appear, which feed on onion leaves before harvesting and overwinter under plant debris, lumps of soil, and stones.

In spring, at an air temperature of +8...+10°C, beetles begin to additionally feed on the leaves of young onions.

Onion moth on onion

Onion moth in the photo

Onion moth causes significant damage to onions, leeks and garlic in warm, dry weather. Damaged leaves, starting from the tops, turn yellow and dry out. Light longitudinal spots are visible on them - mines. Caterpillars penetrate into unopened onion inflorescences and eat away the flower buds there. During flowering, the pedicels are gnawed.

As you can see in the photo, the caterpillars of this onion pest reach up to 1 cm in length, and the butterflies have a wingspan of up to 1.5 cm:

Caterpillars on a bow

Butterflies in the photo

Butterflies overwinter in various secluded places and plant debris, and in the spring at the end of April - May they begin to fly.

Onion fly on onion

Fly treatment in the photo

Onion fly poses a danger to onions, leeks, garlic and other onion crops. Damaged plants are stunted in growth, their leaves wither, acquire a yellowish-gray tint, and then dry out. Damaged bulbs become soft, rot, and emit an unpleasant odor.

White larvae up to 1 cm long, which develop for about three weeks, are harmful. They then pupate in the soil near damaged plants.

In the southern region, the onion fly has two generations. Flies of the first generation fly during the lilac flowering period, the second - in July. They overwinter as a pupa in the soil at a depth of 5-8 cm.

Onion hoverfly on a bow

Onion hoverfly in the photo

The onion hoverfly is especially harmful to weakened plants of various types of onions. Affected plants are stunted, the tops of the leaves turn yellow and wither. The bulbs become soft, rot and emit an unpleasant odor.

The larvae of the pest are quite large, up to 1 cm. They turn into pupae in the soil near damaged plants.

Hoverflies fly at the end of May - June during the flowering of rose hips. They lay eggs on or near the bulbs in the soil. The hatched larvae penetrate the bulbs and feed there for about a month. The pest overwinters in the bulb itself.

Onion stem nematode on onions

Onion stem nematode in the photo

Onion stem nematode attacks onions and garlic during the growing season and storage. Infected seedlings grow slowly, the first leaf is swollen and twisted. If the damage is severe, the plants die. Grayish spots appear on the surface of infected bulbs, the internal scales become loose, soft, and unevenly thickened. Cavities form between the scales, and the bulb feels soft to the touch. The outer scales, and sometimes the bottom, crack; in the fall, such bulbs are without roots. Gray spots are visible near the cracks - accumulations of nematodes.

Nematodes overwinter in bulbs, remains of leaves and scales, and seeds. They remain viable in dry scales for up to five years.

The following are photos and descriptions of onion diseases that affect crops in household plots.

Treatment of onion plantings in case of diseases

When signs of fungal diseases appear, stop excessive watering and nitrogen fertilizing, sprinkle the beds with wood ash, loosen the soil well and destroy remaining weeds, and choose products for treating the plants. Chemical control agents can only be used in the first half of summer, and if onions are grown for feathers, it is advisable to refrain from them. In any case, before spraying with any preparations, it is worth pulling out the infected plants, if there are only a few of them.

In the initial stages of the disease, folk remedies can help. These are infusions and decoctions of various plants (dandelion, celandine, marigold) or tobacco dust. Planting plants such as marigolds, dill, hyssop and other fragrant herbs greatly reduces the risk of disease and repels pests. If only a few plants are sick, they should be pulled out and the holes in their place should be watered with a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (1%).

Marigolds are not only beautiful flowers, but also reliable protectors of the harvest.

If a fungal disease has affected a large number of plants, the entire bed is sprayed with copper preparations, for example, copper oxychloride (40 g per bucket of water) twice a week. However, leaves after this treatment should not be eaten for 3-4 weeks. Among other drugs, Aktara, Karate, Fitoverm, etc. are popular. They help fight insect pests that carry dangerous viruses.

Video: spraying onions against fungal diseases

How to tell if an onion is sick

Diseases and pests of onions, spring onions, as well as other species and botanical varieties of the plant are the main reason for reduced yields and losses during storage.

The culture is susceptible to diseases of fungal, bacterial and viral origin . The development of the disease is often associated with violation of the rules of crop rotation and agricultural technology for cultivating the plant.

According to botanical characteristics, onions belong to the lily family. Like other members of this family, onion plants need protection from harmful microorganisms and disease-carrying insects.

Signs and symptoms

Diseases develop both on the above-ground parts of the plant and inside the bulbs. Fighting them is mandatory, otherwise there is a high risk of losing the harvest.

indicate the development of the disease :

• yellowing, fading and deformation of the feather;
• the appearance of stains and mold on onions;
• changes in the structure of leaf and bulb tissues;
• black spots on onions.

Alternaria onion

photo from WikiGardener - Fandom

Alternaria blight is a disease caused by the Alternaria fungus that can destroy half the crop. The fungus is spread by insects, wind and rain, attacking healthy plants.

A sign of onion Alternaria blight is the appearance of small watery spots with a white center on its feathers. They then increase in size and darken. With high humidity, a gray coating appears on the spots. The onion feathers in this place break off and die. Alternaria also affects the bulb. Its tissues become watery, then turn yellow, and a brown coating forms between the scales.

Measures for the prevention and control of Alternaria

At the first symptoms of the disease, onions are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (20 g of the drug and 200 g of soap shavings are dissolved in a bucket of water) or other fungicides (Abiga-Pik, Ordan). Spraying is carried out at intervals of two weeks until the disease disappears. Fungicides are also used when the onions have been in a humid environment for more than 11 hours.

The affected tops must be destroyed immediately after harvesting to prevent the fungus from spreading.

To prevent infection, seed material is treated with fungicides. It is also necessary to observe crop rotation and fight insects.

Onion pests

Onion diseases are directly related to insect vectors, because they (insects) carry viruses and fungi throughout the onion plantation (and not only the onion plantation).

The tips of the leaves turn yellow (what is this)

This problem, when the tips of the leaves on onions turn yellow, worries novice gardeners. But experienced gardeners don’t worry about it, because they know what to do about this problem.

What is this, let's figure it out. And so, this is not a disease, but here we observe the activity of onion fly larvae or nematodes, which crawl into the tips, sit and eat there. And that's because the ends are tender and soft and juicy.

Borbaa

consists of watering the plantings with onions with a saline solution, where 1 glass of salt goes to a bucket of water.
We do the procedure 2 more times with an interval of 10 days. Important
. Salt destroys larvae, but it will not spare earthworms either, so we use it with caution.

On a note!

Pests can be repelled by periodically sprinkling tobacco dust on the onion plantings. Alternatively, you can simply pinch off the yellow ends and burn them. And then, treat the plants with growth stimulants. This is how we help the onion fight stress.

Prevention measures

To protect not only the harvest, but also young onion seedlings from disease and pests, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures:

• Seed material is processed and inspected daily.
• Before planting onions, the set and area are disinfected.
• Follow crop rotation rules to protect crops.
• Do not use plant residues as compost.
• Timely feeding of onions (twice a month with complex fertilizers).
• Choose varieties that can resist disease.
• Inspect plantings and remove affected specimens.

Diseases of onions in the garden are shown in the photo: