Juniper has turned yellow and is drying up: reasons, what to do, how to restore

Does juniper turn yellow in autumn?

The natural color of juniper scales or needles is green. It remains this way in the fall, but a slight change in color still occurs. This is due to the fact that juniper leaves synthesize anthocyanins - specific wax-like compounds that protect the tree from ultraviolet radiation. Their colors can vary from red to purple. In combination with the greenery of the needles, they give it a yellowish or brownish tint.

Juniper leaves turn yellow due to the release of anthocyanin not only in autumn. This is a natural reaction of the plant to worsening weather conditions, so a change in the color of the needles is observed, for example, in dry weather. Sometimes juniper needles turn yellow and fall off in the fall due to the death of old needles and their replacement by new ones. This is a natural process that occurs approximately once every 4 years.

Features of the variety and ecology

Almost all varieties of juniper are green or emerald.

Once every 4 years, the tree’s needles turn yellow and fall off en masse - this is a natural process of replacing old needles with new ones.

But there are also negative reasons associated with agricultural technology errors.

Each season has its own characteristics. Let's look at everything in order.

in spring

The main factor influencing the yellowing of juniper needles in spring is sunburn.

Therefore, in March and April it needs to be covered with burlap or a thin layer of gauze, especially during the midday hours when the sun is active.

In summer

In dry and hot weather combined with strong winds, the conifer suffers from a lack of moisture, as a result it changes color and dries out.

Another reason is too cold and rainy summers. In this case, the bushes not only turn yellow, but also begin to rot and become damaged by various fungal diseases.

in autumn

The peak of decorativeness occurs in the autumn, when the color of the needles becomes more saturated. However, the color change still occurs due to the synthesis of anthocyanins (specific waxy substances) that protect the crown from UV rays.

The color scheme of plants can be very diverse - from red to burgundy or dark purple.

In combination with green needles, a yellowish or golden-brown tint is formed.

in winter

Yellowing of the bush in winter or after winter occurs for the same reason as in autumn.

Other factors include freezing of shoots from severe frosts and injury to branches under the weight of icy snow.

Causes of yellowing

The main reasons why juniper turns yellow are associated with improper care, pest invasion or disease.

Lack or excess moisture

Juniper can go without water for a long time, but it still needs to be watered once a month. If there is a lack of moisture, yellowness appears on the needles, the needles may dry out and fall off.

In summer, 25-30 liters of water are poured under one plant. In hot weather, sprinkling is carried out once a week.

Causes of yellowing of juniper

Diseases

Junipers are susceptible to many diseases. The most common include:

Schutte disease is when the needles turn brown or dark yellow. After some time it will dry out, but will remain on the branches. The disease occurs when the crop grows in the shade or in soil that is too wet. This is the most common reason why junipers turn yellow in summer. Damaged parts of the plant must be unconditionally removed. They are burned to destroy the fungal spores;
Rust. In spring, yellow-brown growths appear on the branches. Over time, juniper shoots become deformed and crack. If rusty spots are detected, immediately remove the affected fragments and treat the plants with fungicides, for example, topaz, folicur, foundationazole.
Drying of branches. Yellowing of the needles and death of the bark are observed. The problem occurs on juniper bushes that are planted too densely. The affected areas are removed, and the sections are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Nectria and biatorella cancer. Branches, bark and needles turn brown and then die. The disease is dealt with in the same way as with the drying out of branches. In case of severe damage, the bush is uprooted and destroyed.

Juniper diseases

Incorrect soil composition

Juniper loses its decorative properties with increased or decreased soil acidity. The optimal indicator for most varieties is from 5 to 5.5. However, some species prefer acidic soil, while others prefer alkaline soil. Specialized stores sell tests that allow you to control pH levels.

To plant juniper, it is better to use a soil mixture prepared from:

sand;
peat;
a small amount of clay.

The site must have drainage made of crushed bricks, river pebbles, and large expanded clay.

Pests

Juniper may turn yellow under the influence of insects:

aphids;
juniper scale;
spider mite;
gall midges;
juniper sawfly.

Juniper pests

Nutritional deficiencies

Juniper actively signals a lack of useful elements:

yellowing or whitening of needles - iron deficiency;
redness of the needles - lack of phosphorus;
developmental delay, pale color of the crown - lack of nitrogen.

If the problem is not addressed, the plant will continue to dry out and die.

Young junipers are fed annually, adults - once every 2-3 years. The optimal time is spring.

When the reason why the juniper dries is identified, it will become clear what can be done to save it.

List of reasons why junipers turn yellow in the garden

The yellowness of the needles may indicate a variety of developmental disorders. Some problems are very easy to deal with, while others require careful treatment.

Poor quality planting material

Not all nurseries can offer gardeners healthy and hardy seedlings.

Already upon purchase, young juniper may be infected with pests and fungal spores. If there is damage on the roots and shoots of a plant, then pathogenic infections can easily penetrate into the wood through them. When grown on unsuitable soil and in the absence of fertilizing, the seedlings' immunity decreases. They do not tolerate changing conditions well and begin to get sick immediately after disembarkation.

Sick juniper seedlings may turn yellow immediately after planting

In all of the above situations, juniper turns yellow when transferred to the ground. Some seedlings take root safely after an adaptation period, others simply die, so it is better to initially buy high-quality planting material.

For cultivation on the site, it is recommended to choose specimens that have reached 3-4 years old, without visible damage or stains on the trunk and shoots. The branches of the seedling should be flexible, the needles should be uniformly green, without growths and flakes at the base of the needles, and the roots should be strong and well developed, with young shoots.

Violation of landing rules

Sometimes even a healthy juniper can turn yellow after planting and develops reluctantly. This usually means that the wrong place in the garden has been chosen for it. Coniferous shrubs grow poorly:

on waterlogged soils, there should be no groundwater passing near the roots, otherwise the plant will simply begin to rot;
in dense shade, the conifer does not tolerate the sun well, but it also turns yellow from lack of light, so it is best to choose light partial shade for it;
on acidic or alkaline soil, the soil should be light, permeable to oxygen, with a pH level close to neutral.

Juniper may turn yellow when planted in waterlogged or cold soil.
Very often, juniper turns yellow after planting if the procedure was carried out at the wrong time. The optimal dates are the end of April and the end of September. It is not recommended to transfer the seedling into the ground in the middle of summer, and you should not do this just before the onset of frost.

Advice! When planting in spring, you need to make sure that the soil has warmed up to 8-10 °C. The roots will not be able to take root in frozen soil.

Violation of the rules of care

If the juniper has successfully taken root in the ground, but turns yellow after a few months or the next year, the reason may be improper care. A coniferous plant reacts poorly to the following factors:

overmoistening so that the bush does not turn yellow and begin to crumble; it should be watered only in dry weather and shortly before the onset of winter;
improper irrigation, spraying the conifer is useful, but if you do it in bright sun, then burns will remain on the crown, and as a result it turns out that it has turned yellow;
excess fertilizer - juniper prefers neutral soil, and too frequent application of nitrogen, potassium or phosphorus leads to an increase or decrease in pH levels.

Yellowness on juniper needles appears when the soil is acidified and swamped.
Acidic soil is considered especially dangerous for coniferous plants, so gardeners are recommended to carry out liming regularly. But excess alkali also harms juniper. If the bush has turned yellow against the background of limed soil, it can be shed with a solution of citric acid.

Weather

Even with proper care, you can encounter the fact that the juniper has turned yellow if the weather is unfavorable. In particular, conifers often suffer from:

during cold and rainy summers, the plants do not have enough heat and light, and they receive too much moisture, and it is almost impossible to ensure adequate soil drainage;
during a period of prolonged drought, even with frequent watering, you can see that the bush has turned yellow, since excess sunlight and dry wind damage its crown;
after a snowless and cold or warm and wet winter, in the first case, individual shoots may freeze and turn yellow, and in the second, rotting begins in the roots.

The health of the juniper is affected by the weather; it can turn yellow from both rain and drought.
The gardener cannot change the weather conditions, so the main task is to maintain proper care. During drought, the conifer needs to be watered more often and, if possible, shaded from the sun, and during the rainy season, the trunk and needles should be inspected for fungi and pests.

Important! In the middle zone and northern regions, coniferous shrubs need to be covered for the winter and their roots should be insulated with a layer of mulch. This will provide protection from sudden temperature changes, which pose an even greater danger than severe frosts.

Pets

Experienced gardeners know that cats - their own or neighbors' - pose a threat to decorative conifers on the site. These animals often relieve themselves under the trunk, and since urine is alkaline, the bush can quickly turn yellow. If cats mark the plant constantly, it will not only lose its attractiveness, but will also die completely.

If juniper is marked by cats, it can dry out entirely over the summer

It is quite difficult to keep pets away from coniferous plantings. There are many specialized repellent compounds sold in stores, but in practice they have almost no effect. To protect shrubs, folk remedies are often used:

Dry barberry branches. If the pruned thorny shoots are tightly placed around the trunk, animals will no longer be able to use the trunk circle as a latrine. But you need to place thorns very often, so that even cats with their grace cannot find free areas under the trunk.
Barberry thorns placed under a juniper help to drive away animals
Citrus peels. Animals have a sensitive sense of smell and do not like strong odors. Therefore, lemon or orange peels are good for repelling. The downside of this method is that in the fresh air the aromas quickly disappear; the crusts will have to be renewed daily.
Dogs and cats do not like the citrus smell, so you can spread the peels under the juniper
Mesh fencing. To prevent animals from approaching the trunk, you can stretch a net around the juniper on pegs and enclose the entire circle near the trunk with a kind of “fence.” The fence should be high enough to prevent cats from jumping over it, and spacious enough to prevent animals from marking bushes from a distance.
To protect from cats, seedlings and mature coniferous trees are surrounded with netting

The easiest way is to lay out the thorns. The method is highly effective; you do not have to regularly renew the protective layer, and the appearance of the area will not change at all.

Diseases

Juniper is highly susceptible to fungal diseases. If the bush turns yellow, this may indicate the development of diseases, most of which lead to the crown changing color and drying out.

Most often, the needles may turn yellow due to the following diseases:

rust;
When rust occurs, the juniper becomes covered with orange growths, and the needles turn yellow
biatorella cancer or nectriosis;
With Nectria and Biatorella canker, the juniper changes color and ulcers form on the trunk
Alternaria blight;
With Alternaria blight, a dark coating appears on the juniper, and the needles turn yellow
Schutte;
Juniper schutte leads to a color change to yellow, brown and reddish
Fusarium
Yellowing from fusarium is especially dangerous for juniper, since the plant often dies

Ephedra diseases most often occur when growing conditions are not met. To avoid fungi, you need to monitor the moisture and acidity of the soil. If the bush has already turned yellow, the diseased branches must be cut off, and the remaining plant should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, Fundazol or copper oxychloride.

Pests

Juniper can turn yellow under the influence of harmful insects. Caterpillars, beetles and mites feed on the juices of pine needles, eat needles and wood, and carry infectious diseases. This disrupts the natural processes of life, and the gardener is faced with the fact that the bush has turned yellow.

Juniper dries out and changes color when attacked by the following pests:

sawfly;
Sawfly caterpillars eat juniper shoots, and the bush begins to turn yellow
aphids;
Colonies of aphids can take over the juniper whole, and it will quickly turn yellow
gall midge;
In the presence of gall midges, the juniper not only becomes covered with orange growths, but also changes color
scale insect.
The scale insect feeds on the juices of coniferous plants, and if it is present, the juniper may turn yellow

Juniper pests are easy to spot upon careful inspection. If the bush has turned yellow under the influence of insects, you need to immediately treat the plantings with insecticides, for example, Karbofos, Aktara or Skor.

Attention! Since harmful insects in the garden reproduce in waves, therapeutic and preventive spraying is carried out 3-4 times per season - from early spring to mid-autumn.

Pests

Pests that attack juniper bushes can be divided into two large groups. The first group includes sucking pests such as aphids, scale insects, gall midges, and spider mites. By sucking out beneficial substances, the pest deprives the plant of nutrition, and the juniper gradually dies.

The second group consists of pine-eating pests: most often, juniper is affected by the sawfly. Branches that have turned yellow due to the sawfly can no longer be saved: the pest gnaws out the inner tissue of the bush, and it dies.

Juniper aphid

These are small brown insects with two dark stripes. In autumn it lays eggs for wintering, and in spring and summer it actively damages the plant. Aphids prefer young branches and cracks in the trunk. Sucking the juice from them, it provokes yellowing of the needles, bending of the branches, and falling of the needles.

You can treat the shrub with Confidor, Mospilan, and Calypso. You can spray the affected branches with cool, soapy water.

When treating with soap, you need to spread an oilcloth at the roots so that the soap does not get into the soil. You need to repeat the treatment a week after the first spraying.

Juniper scale

A small pale orange insect. The location chosen is berries, pine needles and young cones of the plant. Significantly impair the growth of juniper and cause it to turn yellow.

If the spread of the scale insect is small, you can use a physical barrier: caterpillar glue, catching belts. If the pest has spread upward but has not yet caused significant damage, you can clean the tree trunk with a toothbrush.

In the event of a serious pest infestation, only insecticides remain.

Gall midges

The larvae are bright yellow-orange in color, while the adult insects look like small mosquitoes. By releasing a growth substance, they stimulate the unhealthy growth of juniper: galls are formed in which the insect settles.

The pest is expelled by insecticides, as well as by pruning the affected branches and burning them.

Spruce spider mite

Young shrubs planted in dry soil may suffer from mites. Hot summer time is especially favorable for its development. It is easy to recognize by the appearance of cobwebs on the crown, which changes color from light to brown.

You can save the plant with colloidal sulfur. Infusions of garlic or dandelion are used for spraying. In difficult cases, acaricides will have to be used.

Sawfly

Looks like a green caterpillar with a brown head. If the sawfly has not shown itself well yet, you can dig up the ground at the roots and destroy the pest’s nests yourself. In case of significant damage, plant insecticides will help.

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Juniper diseases: how to fight

Junipers are unpretentious. They are not afraid of open places and cold winds, are undemanding to soil, but require good lighting and do not tolerate shade. Unfortunately, junipers are susceptible to diseases, most often fungal ones.

Tracheomycosis wilt (fusarium) of juniper

The causative agents of the disease - the fungi Fusarium oxysporum and F. sambucinum - cause rotting of the root system. The mycelium penetrates the vascular system and fills it, the roots of the junipers turn brown. The access of nutrients to the crown is stopped, starting from the upper shoots, the needles turn yellow, red and fall off, and the plants themselves gradually dry out. Young plants are most affected. Since fungi spread through blood vessels, the disease may occur in a latent form at first. On the affected parts of plants, especially on the roots, with high humidity, grayish-white sporulation of the fungus appears.

The infection persists in plants, in affected plant debris, and is often spread through contaminated planting material or contaminated soil.

The disease is common in low areas with stagnant water, on heavy clay soils and in insufficient plant lighting.

Control measures. Timely culling and destruction of all dried plants along with roots, destruction of affected plant debris. Compliance with agricultural technology. For prevention, before planting, young plants with an open root system are treated with a solution of one of the preparations: Baktofit, Vitaros, Maxim. At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot, water the soil under the plants with a solution of one of the drugs: Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair. Carry out preventive and eradicating spraying and spilling the soil with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.

Juniper rust

The causative agents are the fungi Gymnosporangium confusum, G. juniperinum, G. sabinae. They have different hosts: the main cycle of their development occurs on juniper, and the intermediate hosts are Rosaceae (apple, pear, quince, hawthorn, cotoneaster, rowan).

Fungal spores germinate on shoots, skeletal branches, needles and cones and form an overwintering mycelium. Fusiform thickenings appear on the affected parts, and individual skeletal branches begin to die. On the trunks, often at the root collar, swellings and swellings form, on which the bark dries out and shallow wounds open. In early spring, when there is still snow all around, brown growths (up to 0.5 cm) appear on branches, stems, and cracks in the bark, which after rain swell and become covered with mucus (up to 1.5 cm). They develop spores that germinate and form a golden-orange coating. They are quickly spread by the wind and infect rosaceous crops.

In spring, on rosaceous plants, yellowish-brown spots with black dots form on the upper side of the leaves, and on the lower side there are galls, large protrusions seated with long, horn-like outgrowths. Spores ripen on the surface of the galls, which then infect the juniper.

Over time, the juniper branches affected by rust dry out, the needles turn brown and fall off. The infection persists in the affected juniper bark. The disease is chronic, practically incurable.

Control measures. Like when juniper branches dry out. In addition, junipers should be placed away from rosaceous plants or a barrier of other types of plants should be created between them. As a last resort, remove the less valuable intermediate host of the disease.

Drying of juniper branches

The causative agents can be several fungi: Cytospora pini, Diplodia juniperi, Hendersonia notha, Phoma juniperi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Rhabdospora sabinae. The bark dries out and numerous small brown and black fruiting bodies form on it. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches of the bushes dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches and in unharvested plant debris. Its spread is facilitated by dense plantings.

Control measures. Compliance with agricultural technology, use of high-quality planting material. Pruning the affected branches, disinfecting individual wounds and all cuts with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and covering with oil paint on natural drying oil, garden varnish or pastes (Rannet). Collect and burn all pruned affected branches. Carrying out preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (Abiga-Peak, HOM). If the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, they are sprayed again with the same spray.

Juniper Alternaria

The causative agent is the fungus Alternaria tenuis. A black velvety coating appears on the affected brown needles and branches. The needles fall off, the branches dry out. The disease manifests itself when plantings are dense on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris.

Control measures. Like when juniper branches dry out.

Brown juniper schutte (brown coniferous snow mold)

The causative agents are the fungi Herpotrichia juniperi and N. nigra. The disease develops under snow at temperatures not lower than +0.5 °C. In spring, the branches of junipers freed from snow are covered with yellow or brown needles. It is entangled in cobwebby mycelium, which is grayish at first, but gradually becomes black-brown, dense and as if gluing the needles together. Over time, black spherical small fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the pathogen fungus form in the affected needles. The needles turn brown, dry out and do not fall off for a long time. This greatly reduces the decorative value of plants. Thin branches die. The infection persists in the affected plant debris and in the affected needles.

The development of the disease is promoted by high humidity and dense plants. Young plants are most susceptible to damage.

Control measures. Timely pruning of dried branches, preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (Abiga-Peak, HOM). If the disease manifests itself to a severe degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with one of the same drugs.

Errors in agricultural technology

They can consist not only of lack of attention and care, but also of excessive care.

Sunburn

The most common cause of yellowing of needles is burning of the crown in the bright spring sun against the backdrop of still frozen ground and half-dormant roots in it. Seasonal shading is necessary for sensitive junipers, especially if they grow in an open area. Old tulle, loose burlap, mesh - any woven material will do. Unfortunately, some particularly sensitive varieties (for example, Stricta) in regions with a sharply continental climate will not be helped by either winter or spring shelter. If you managed not to burn out this season, it will burn out next season or, even worse, in a couple of years, and all the work invested in growing it will be in vain.

The yellowing and falling of needles observed inside the crown in the first autumn months is a normal process of its replacement and should not cause concern! In spring the plant will give new growth.

Drying of roots

It is strictly forbidden to allow the root system to dry out completely. Until the roots have gone deep enough, the soil must be mulched (can be covered with branches) and moistened regularly.

If the needles begin to lose color, presumably for this reason, you need to increase watering, but not all at once, but gradually, so as not to plunge the plant into additional shock. Unfortunately, only large roots can be “watered off”; thin roots in an overdried coma die off irrevocably.

When planting a seedling in a hole, it is recommended to place 2-3 large flat stones loosely next to each other, by climbing under which the roots will always find the necessary moisture and will be reliably protected from drying out.

Late autumn planting

If the planting was done in late autumn and the plant did not have time to take root properly on the eve of frost and freezing of the soil, then in the spring there may be a loss of color in the needles. This occurs due to dehydration, since the roots in this case evaporate moisture from all plant tissues.

What to do in that case? In winter, a young seedling needs to be reliably protected from frost, and in spring from the sun. Closer to spring, the snow in the tree trunk circle needs to be cleared to its edges and the ground should be watered with warm water (about 60C) at least every other day. Don't be afraid that the water will be hot; the frozen ground will cool it just enough.

Overfeeding

The annual growth of this crop is small, so it does not need fertilizers - properly selected surrounding soil is enough. As a result, the needles may turn yellow (and in blue varieties change color to green), and dwarf varieties lose all their charm and grow to normal sizes, unremarkable from a decorative point of view.

For young plants or those that have suffered root drying, you can use the drug “Kornevin”, which stimulates root growth. It is not a fertilizer, but the recommended rate must be followed to avoid the opposite effect.

What to do if your juniper bonsai turns yellow

Growing juniper bonsai is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners.

Did you know? The oldest juniper is more than 2000 years old, which still grows in Crimea.

Even the fact that the plants are grown in separate pots in gentle conditions, “mini-conifers” can also turn yellow for the following reasons:

Not enough moisture. Being constantly indoors (especially heated ones), ornamental shrubs suffer from drying out of the soil in containers. Therefore, they need to be watered regularly, avoiding waterlogging of the soil, and the crown should be sprayed.
Stress . Coniferous crops may turn yellow and crumble due to frequent changes in location or transplantation. In this case, it is necessary to choose the optimal place for the bonsai, without moving it, to allow it to acclimatize to new conditions.
A lack of minerals in the soil leads to yellowing and shedding of needles. Fertilizers should be applied regularly depending on the deficiency of a particular chemical element.

There are many different reasons for yellowing of the juniper crown. To prevent this negative process, you need to provide the shrubs with proper care, regularly inspect the coniferous crop for the first signs of yellowing, and prevent this in time.

Varietal characteristics and environmental factors

One of the most common reasons for the loss of decorative properties of conifers, and sometimes their death, is insufficient winter hardiness. The risk group primarily includes the following varieties: recumbent or leaning, Zeravshan, red and Turkestan. The Cossack, common, scaly, hard, Siberian, Chinese, and horizontal species survive the winter most steadfastly. If the winter is calm, without extreme “somersaults,” then these representatives of conifers, especially the short ones, tolerate it without problems, wintering under the snow, like ordinary Christmas trees. But snowless frosts, thaws followed by sharp drops in temperature and other surprises from nature often lead to problems, the external manifestation of which is loss of appearance.

Gas contamination

Junipers have mixed tolerance to gas pollution, smoke and other unfavorable environmental factors. Some species easily tolerate them, others begin to wither, weakly resist infections and pests, and shed their needles and branches.

In this case, the needles begin to turn yellow from the very tips evenly throughout the bush. They may eke out a miserable existence on the site for a long time, but they will never regain their former decorative appearance.

When planting coniferous seedlings near busy roads or industrial enterprises, you need to be especially responsible when choosing a variety.

Acid rain

The industry's extensive use of brown coal, which has a high sulfur content, leads to so-called acid rain. They also attack juniper crowns and other tree species that are not resistant to sulfuric anhydride. The western regions of Russia suffer the most from acid rain. But, unfortunately, there are no measures to combat this factor.

Soil salt concentration

The optimal soil acidity is from 5 to 5.5 (pH). A mixture of sand with peat and a small addition of clay is perfect for planting.

If the indicators are much higher than recommended and the crown begins to lose its decorative appearance, you can try to reduce the acidity using dolomite flour, fluff, and complex deoxidizing preparations.

Do not allow dogs and cats to visit junipers, as they increase the concentration of soil salts with their urine! In this case, coniferous shoots acquire a rusty color.

Spring waterlogging of the soil

Occurs due to the rise of groundwater during spring floods. Seasonal temperature changes between soil and air have a particularly negative impact.

How does the season affect the juniper turning yellow?

This plant is considered to be an evergreen, but despite this, the color may change. This change may be affected by the season.

Why does juniper turn yellow in summer and what to do?

Juniper needles turn yellow in the summer due to lack of water in the root system. This usually occurs due to dry weather. Yellowing due to lack of water can be recognized by the following signs: the needles have become pale and are starting to turn yellow throughout the bush.

In case of spotty yellowing, that is, when only the top, center or bottom of the juniper, it is recommended to inspect the crop, as it may be pests.

Why does juniper turn yellow in autumn?

If the color of the foliage changes evenly, the plant does not have to worry much. Since the color may change due to a decrease in air temperature and the onset of the first frost.

Due to the fact that the plant begins to secrete a special compound, the color changes and this is natural and safe. Therefore, it does not require excitement or any control measures.

In very early autumn, juniper may turn yellow from the inside. What to do if the juniper turns yellow inside? The fact is that this is a natural process of old needles dying off, which will later be replaced by young needles.

Yellowing in winter

If the foliage of a plant turns yellow in winter, this can happen due to the same reasons as in autumn. But another one joins them. This may be caused by damage to the plant.

Due to severe frosts and cold weather, the crown may begin to break due to this. Branches that have been broken will begin to change color. In winter, they should not be touched under any circumstances. But with the onset of spring you need to remove them. Because these wounds can cause the plant to become infected with some kind of virus.

Why does juniper turn yellow after winter?

In spring, the sun's rays gain their strength and frequency. Out of habit, juniper may not perceive these rays well and get burned. As a result, the juniper turns yellow in the spring.

Due to the strong sun, the needles heat up. And on them there is still unmelted snow, which, turning into water, provokes burns. During this period, the needles become pale, as if they are burning out. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to protect the culture using a bandage or gauze.

Diseases

The second group of reasons why juniper dries is disease. Juniper is susceptible to a large number of diseases. In addition, it can be their carrier and infect other garden trees. Therefore, it is important to monitor the health of the bush.

Schutte

Schutte is the name of a number of fungal diseases. The symptoms of all three types of Schutte are similar, with the first signs of damage appearing in the summer.

Young and weakened shrubs are at risk. Symptoms: first the needles turn yellow, then they turn red and fall off. Mature trees are able to survive by sacrificing only their lower branches. The young plant dies. The fungicides “Fundazol” and “Zineb” will help in the fight against the disease.

Biatorella cancer

First, brown, cracking spots appear on the tree bark, then the crown begins to turn yellow. A 1% solution of copper sulfate or the fungicide “HOM” will help.

Bark nectriosis

The bark is the first to suffer: red spots appear on it. Afterwards the needles begin to turn yellow. For prevention, you need to plant shrubs correctly - not too densely. For treatment, treat with fungicides.

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Rust

Rust on juniper is manifested by orange growths, drying out and falling off of the needles. At the beginning of infection, the bush can be saved with fungicides; severe cases of the disease cannot be cured.

Drying branches

It is impossible to trace the beginning of the process, but the pathology subsequently manifests itself by yellowing of the branches and their falling off. Minor manifestations are treated with fungicides; a severely affected plant cannot be saved.

Reasons why juniper turns yellow in spring and ways to solve the problem

Lush green juniper bushes look beautiful in any composition, but sometimes they can upset their owner.
One of the common problems when growing coniferous plants is yellowing of the needles themselves, and most often it can be noticed in the spring. In order to help your pets, you need to determine the reason why the junipers turned yellow after winter, and then it will become clear what can be done to save them. Conifers become yellow and may dry out as a result of the following factors:

Improper care

There are several reasons why juniper in the countryside turns yellow and dries out.

1. The soil or location is not suitable.

It is necessary to focus on natural growth conditions - in nature, shrubs can be found in pine and deciduous forests, along the edges of roads or on the edges.

A shaded place with good drainage and slightly acidic soil is better suited.

2. Incorrect timing and landing time.

It is better to plant in late April or early May.

For autumn planting - mid-September or the first ten days of October.

It is not recommended to plant in summer or in extreme heat - the plant is unlikely to take root and will quickly turn yellow and dry out.

3. The tree was brought from the forest.

Trees from the forest have poor survival rate after transplantation.

In ordinary garden soil they turn yellow, dry out and die.

For growing, it is better to go to a specialized nursery to buy seedlings. Purchased junipers tolerate replanting well, take root successfully and do not require special care, unlike forest varieties.

In addition, digging is punishable by law.

Juniper turned yellow after winter: causes and restoration of the plant

Why does juniper turn yellow and dry out after winter? This is a fairly common question. This is how sunburn appears. Light is reflected from the snow cover, and the needles cannot withstand the radiation. The root system of the plant is frozen and does not provide the needles with moisture. As a result, they dry out. Therefore, in the spring, gardeners observe yellow bushes.

To help juniper, you should:

in regions with harsh climates, plant frost-resistant varieties;
mulch the tree trunk so that the root system does not freeze, for example, with peat or sawdust;
young plants are covered with non-woven materials.

These measures do not exclude the possibility of sunburn. To save a plant that has nevertheless suffered, a set of restoration procedures is carried out using growth stimulants.

Description of culture

Plants are unpretentious in care, undemanding to soil and moisture. The most resistant types of junipers:

Cossack;
Virginia;
Chinese;
Siberian;
ordinary.

Juniper
Despite the apparent ease of cultivation, maintaining plant health is not so easy. Many varieties are prone to fungal diseases and react sharply to any adverse environmental changes.

A common question for novice gardeners: juniper dries out, what should I do? First you need to identify the cause, and then take immediate action.

How to save a juniper if the needles have turned yellow?

Evergreen junipers (Juniperus), along with pines and spruces, rightfully occupy the top positions in the list of plants in the middle zone. The high winter hardiness and drought resistance of juniper, good tolerance to pruning, combined with the pleasant aroma of pine needles make this shrub indispensable in landscape design. The variety of species and varieties of juniper allows you to select the desired bush habit and needle texture for both single and group planting, alpine hills. Juniper hedges are especially popular; they can be trimmed to the desired height and profile.

Junipers in the spring often do not please garden owners. They are considered the most unpretentious plants, however, in reality it turns out that caring for these evergreens is difficult and they get sick more often than other shrubs due to their tendency to fungal diseases. This is expressed in the yellowing and gradual drying of needles on junipers for no apparent reason in late spring - early summer. Sometimes this is due to sunburn, which is quite easy to distinguish. They appear on juniper bushes on the south side.

But fungal diseases need to be regularly combated with preventive spraying with fungicidal and copper-containing preparations. In damp areas at the beginning of summer you can find junipers, the needles of which on individual branches have acquired a light brown tint or opal. On individual needles, round or ellipsoidal dots of dark color are noticeable. These are signs of conifers. This fungal disease affects the most weakened coniferous shrubs. Branches with fallen or yellowed needles must be removed, and the remaining healthy parts of the plant should be sprayed with fungicides in May and October.

Only in the second or third year after juniper and thuja are damaged by rust, bright orange oily growths appear on the needles. Cossack and Virginia junipers most often suffer from rust. The peculiarity of this disease is the presence of a nearby deciduous, infected “host” fruit tree. The leaves of pear and apple trees are the first to be affected; tubercles and rusty spots form on them, from which spores spill onto the juniper. On conifers, rust does not appear immediately, but when the disease has already spread widely enough, so it is difficult to cure it. The first step is to remove the damaged parts of the juniper, and carefully treat the remaining crown with a fungicidal preparation.

Drying of branches in the spring, in which the needles turn yellow and begin to fall off, is also caused by certain classes of fungi. On neglected plants, dark small spores appear on the bark of the trunk. Rock juniper (variety “Skyrocket”) and scaly juniper (“Blue Star”, “Blue Carpet”) are especially susceptible to this disease. Measures to combat drying out are the same as with other fungal diseases: removing all damaged branches and spraying with fungicides.

If the dried branches at the top of your juniper show a reddish tint, then you should start to worry. These are signs of trachymycosis wilt. Virginia, Cossack, and hanging hybrid varieties of junipers are susceptible to this dangerous disease. The disease is transmitted through the soil and with infected seedlings. The roots of the juniper turn brown, spores form on them, and the fungal mycelium infects the entire plant, which dies. The wilted plant should be immediately removed, and the soil in the place of the dead bush should be completely replaced. If the variety is very valuable, then you can remove some of the branches and try to preserve it by regularly spraying it with fungicidal preparations.

Among the reasons for yellowing of juniper needles in the spring may be the development of cancer lesions on the trunks and branches of plants. Mechanical damage to the bark increases the risk of developing cancerous growths on juniper; these areas are quickly colonized by fungi. In infected areas, the growth rate of wood changes; juniper branches above the affected area turn yellow and dry out. It is very difficult to cure cancer on juniper, so the affected branches are completely removed, and the remaining parts are sprayed with copper preparations.

To prevent the disease from being transferred to healthy branches and individual specimens, cuts and cuts on juniper branches are lubricated with a solution of copper sulfate. The tool used for pruning affected plants is repeatedly wiped with alcohol during the process. In spring (April) and autumn (October), juniper is sprayed with copper preparations for prevention (this can be a solution of copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, or commercial preparations such as Oxychom).

It is recommended to change preparations for spraying juniper to increase their effectiveness. To accelerate the growth of needles and increase stress resistance, juniper is sprayed with anti-stress drugs (“Epin”, “Zircon”). They will improve the condition of the needles and accelerate their growth on healthy plants. To avoid infection of juniper with fungal diseases, the roots of juniper seedlings should be soaked for 2-3 hours in a solution of fungicidal preparations such as “Maxim” or “Fitosporin” before planting. Proper agricultural technology is the key to ensuring that the junipers in your garden will delight you with lush green needles all year round.

Disease Prevention

Diseases are easier to prevent than to treat. To do this, when growing juniper you need to follow the rules.

Plant only healthy bushes. If there are doubts about the quality, it is better to treat them with quadris or phytosporin.
The risk of diseases increases significantly if agricultural practices are not followed. Do not thicken plantings or place bushes on heavy soil with poor air circulation and stagnant water.
After removing the juniper branches, the cuts must be treated with garden varnish. The instruments are first disinfected, otherwise the procedure will not bring any benefit, but will only aggravate the situation.

Prevention of juniper diseases

Preventive measures are carried out at the beginning and end of the season. Plants are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or its analogues.
To increase the resistance of junipers, microfertilizers with an immunomodulatory effect are used.

Pests on juniper

Most often, juniper is attacked by aphids or scale insects. Keep an eye on the plant and prevent these insects from appearing. If you couldn’t keep track, then treat the conifer with garlic infusion.

There is also another type of pest – pine-eaters. These include, for example, purple butterflies. In addition to them, sawflies are often found. If you notice insects, treat the juniper with insecticides.

How to revive juniper

The juniper has turned yellow, what to do in this case? First, the cause is eliminated, then a set of procedures is carried out using growth stimulants. They will help restore the crown faster:

Juniper needles are sprayed with Epin-extra (2 ml per 10 liters of water).
After 10 days, use a zircon solution (1 ml per 10 l). The crown is treated with it and the soil in the tree trunk is watered abundantly. You can additionally use a root stimulator to activate the roots. The procedures are carried out 2-3 times every 7 days.
The final stage is re-treatment of juniper needles with Epin-extra.

How to revive juniper

What to do if the juniper turns yellow and dries, and the cause has not been established

The first thing a gardener needs to do is to carefully examine the yellow juniper:

With fungal diseases, it is quickly possible to identify other symptoms - unnatural growths, dark spots, light or black plaque.
If the conifer has turned yellow from pests, then caterpillars or bugs or holes and depressions left by them should be present on the shoots and needles.
If there are no pests or traces of diseases on the plant, you need to assess the degree of soil moisture, and also understand whether the juniper has turned yellow from excess sun.
Since shrubs can turn yellow due to very acidic or alkaline soil, you should check the pH level. This is done simply - pour a little soil from the tree trunk onto the glass, and then pour it with a tablespoon of vinegar. The appearance of abundant foam indicates a high alkali content; the absence of a reaction indicates acidified soil.

If the juniper has turned yellow, you need to check all possible causes one by one
. It happens that in the absence of visible reasons, the juniper continues to turn yellow. In this case, you can carefully dig up the soil near the trunk and check the condition of the roots. With certain diseases (for example, with fusarium), the crown dries out already in the last stages of the disease, when the lower part of the plant has time to practically rot.

Attention! If in mid-summer or towards autumn the juniper stands with yellow tips, this indicates heavily polluted air.

Recommendations from experts

It is important not only to know how to deal with the problem of yellowing needles, but also how to do it correctly.

Almost all fungal and other pathogens of juniper diseases develop resistance to the drugs used against them. Therefore, it is not advisable to use the same remedy; they must be alternated.
Different problems require the use of different drugs. Fungal infections are fought with fungicides, insects and their larvae are destroyed with insecticides, and acaricides are used against mites and similar pests.
The optimal interval between treatments is 2 weeks.
The best time for spraying is morning or evening, the day should be warm and windless.
Sections of branches affected by fungal pathogens must be treated with garden varnish, copper sulfate or oil-based paint with the obligatory presence of drying oil in the composition.
There is no need to rush to remove branches that are slightly burnt in the sun; they can still recover and grow fresh needles.

With juniper problems, like with any others, it is better to deal with them before they appear. Prevention should become an integral part of agrotechnical measures for the care of this ornamental crop. If you add to this a regular preventative examination, you will be able to notice the first signs of a disease or pest attack in time and have time to save the plant. If everything has gone too far, it is better to sacrifice a little in the name of saving other ornamental and fruit trees and garden crops.

Recommendations from gardeners

Good advice from experienced summer residents will help prevent yellowing of needles and quickly eliminate the problem.

If the tips turn yellow, but there are no signs of disease or pest damage, you need to treat the crown with Epin solution with the addition of Zircon. One ampoule of each drug is dissolved in 5 liters of water. Irrigate several times at intervals of 4-5 days.
If purchased seedlings are in doubt, then before planting they should be treated with one of the dressing agents - Quadris, Fitosporin or Maxim.
It is unacceptable to plant the plant in a gas-filled place. This specimen needs to be urgently transplanted to an area with cleaner air.
After each watering, the tree trunk area is mulched with peat or pine chips.
For the best effect, it is better to carry out all preventive and therapeutic treatments in dry, windless and cloudy weather. This eliminates the risk of burning.
The likelihood of infection by sores and pests increases when planting on heavy, acidic and alkalized soil, so try to carefully prepare the place - add drainage from sand, screenings or vermiculite. If deoxidation is necessary, sprinkle the soil with dolomite flour, calcite or slaked lime.
If the needles turn yellow, it is necessary to repeatedly treat the crown and soil with appropriate pesticides.
Juniper that has turned yellow and almost dried out must be urgently removed from the site and burned to prevent the spread of infection. Sprinkle its habitat generously with a solution of copper sulfate.

Preventive actions

Prevention is the best way to avoid problems with yellowing of juniper needles. The shrub must be regularly treated with fungicides to prevent fungal diseases. In addition, you need to regularly inspect it, and this must be done scrupulously and carefully. If you detect a disease or pests at an early stage, then, as a rule, it is possible to save the bush. Neglected diseases are treated much worse and in most cases lead to the death of the plant.

An important measure is comprehensive care of juniper tree trunks. Weeding, loosening and mulching them, as well as treating them with special preparations is an excellent preventive measure against the appearance of pests that overwinter in the root zone. The tree trunk circles, like the shrub itself, must be regularly cleaned of old wood, dry and broken branches.

In spring, measures should be taken to shelter the juniper from the bright sun. Young bushes and seedlings must be protected from direct sunlight first. It is better to use burlap for this. Covering material cannot be used for this purpose, as it prevents the evaporation of water. Sometimes, to protect from the sun, it is enough to install a small screen or a white screen that protects the juniper from direct sunlight.

Prevention measures

Juniper may turn yellow for reasons beyond the control of the gardener. But basic preventive measures will help reduce the likelihood of developing diseases:

When caring for shrubs, you need to ensure that the soil always remains moist, but does not dry out or become waterlogged.
During the warm season, the juniper should be carefully inspected at least twice a month; this will allow you to notice in time that it has turned yellow and recognize pests and symptoms of illnesses.
The soil in the tree trunk circle must be loosened monthly. This measure improves oxygen access to the roots and prevents moisture stagnation.
In autumn, the area with junipers must be weeded and completely cleared of debris. Fungi and insect larvae wait out the winter in plant litter, so it should not be left near the trunk.
For the winter, juniper must be covered, not so much from frost, but from snow and bright sun. The shrub tolerates moderate cold well, but its shoots break under the weight of snow cover and may turn yellow as daylight increases.

To prevent juniper from turning yellow, you need to treat it preventively and not flood the soil.
For conifers, it is useful to carry out preventive treatment with fungicides. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture in the spring will not take much time, but will prevent the plant from turning yellow and will help stop many diseases at an early stage.

Restoring dried thuja

If the thuja turns yellow, what should I do, how to revive it? You can help the plant if the foliage is completely or partially dried out and the root system is functioning. If the root is dead, then no way to save the thuja will help.

To begin with, each branch of the tree must be carefully checked whether it is alive or not; to do this, it is bent in different places: live ones are elastic, dead ones are dry and brittle. The damaged ones are removed, the sections are smeared with varnish.

The dried plant must be sprayed daily with water with the addition of Epin, an excellent drug for improving the immune system. The solution is sprayed directly onto the crown. Depending on the size of the affected area, spraying is carried out every day or once a week.

The outdoor plant is covered with lutrasil to protect it from sunlight and excessive evaporation of moisture directly in the summer. If this is a houseplant, then the pot with it is placed in a mini-greenhouse.

On a note. It would be a good idea to fertilize with special fertilizers for conifers.

If a young tree has dried out, replanting will help

If a young tree has dried up, replanting will help - perhaps the reason for the plant's decline is in the wrong place or soil. During transplantation, the root system is inspected for possible damaged, rotten roots. If necessary, treat with Kornevin.

Reanimation of a dried thuja takes a long time; the plant can take several years to recover.

Pests and ways to combat them

Fortunately, juniper does not have as many enemies as other conifers, including pine. The most common and dangerous organisms are presented below.

The scale insect attacks any type of juniper. Yellow-orange larvae settle on all parts of the crown, feed on plant sap, which inhibits growth and development and causes the bark to die. Scale insects reduce the plant's immunity, which leads to a fungal infection, after which additional treatment with fungicides is necessary. You can save the crop using systemic insecticidal agents, treating the crown and soil 2-3 times at intervals of 2 weeks. It is better to alternate medications because pests become accustomed to the active ingredients.

Dangerous for any variety is the juniper aphid, which also feeds on plant juices. Since its larvae can be carried by ants that feed on the honeydew secreted by the insect, the fight must begin with the destruction of ant nests. Spraying the crown with a soap solution (250 g of detergent per 5 liters of water), but also such preparations as Decis, Calypso, Mospilan, Rogor, and the contact insecticide Anabasin-sulfate will help eliminate the pest.

Due to the colonization of gall midges - tiny mosquitoes - growths form on the branches, surrounding the larvae. The pest feeds on these neoplasms. If there are many such balls, the only way out is to cut and burn the affected branches. The tree should be treated with Actellik, Intavir, and Fufanon.

The juniper and pine sawfly larvae living in the soil eat not only the needles, but also the internal parts of the plant. You can fight the pest manually by regularly digging up the soil, using adhesive tapes and destroying nests. However, spraying with insecticidal compounds - Kinmiks, Karbofos, Bi-58 - is more effective.

On summer and autumn days, juniper may be subject to aggression from lepidopteran moths devouring the needles. During drought, they reproduce especially actively, and it is necessary to urgently take measures to destroy them so that the caterpillars do not hide in the ground in the fall - there they will overwinter, and next year they will again feed on the plant. You can tell that this is a moth by the damaged needles - damage is visible on them. Pesticides of narrowly targeted action (against larvae) are used as treatment. Processing of young branches is carried out in early spring; it is also important to dig up the ground near the trunk.

In the event of a flat beetle mite attack, it is not always possible to revive the plant. The insect settles under dead particles of needles and in wrinkles of the bark, so it is difficult to notice. As a result of its vital activity, the foliage becomes discolored and crumbles, the juniper loses its healthy and attractive appearance, and often dies. Method of control: 3-fold treatment with the drugs “Actellik”, “Nurel-D”, “Caesar”; carried out with pauses of 10 days.

Meanwhile, harmful insects, as a rule, settle on damaged and weak plants, so with good care, it is quite enough to carry out preventive procedures to prevent their appearance.

Diseases

Juniper needles can turn yellow due to various types of diseases. Next, we will get acquainted with the most dangerous pathologies.

Schutte

This is not one disease, but several varieties at once. All Schutte diseases are fungal in nature and only affect conifers. The disease can lead not only to yellowing of the needles, but also, in severe stages, to blackening and complete falling off. The risk group includes young and weak junipers, as well as those growing in damp soil.

What to do

When the disease is still in its early stages, sanitary treatment with drugs such as HOM, Quadris, Ridomir, etc. can help. Affected branches are pruned and burned. If the bush is severely affected, unfortunately, you will have to part with it.

Schutte diseases are much more beneficial to prevent. For prevention, you can use the same drugs as for treatment, but in weaker concentrations. In addition, it is important to initially select seedlings without any signs of infection, choose dry areas for planting, and care for them properly.

Alternaria blight

This is also a fungus, and quite dangerous. Infection with Alternaria causes the needles to turn brown with a black coating. In severe cases, the needles fall off and the branches become bare. The risk of infection is especially high if the juniper is planted densely.

What to do

Branches that are already infected must be cut off and destroyed away from the site. Then disinfection is carried out with a solution of copper sulfate. The sections are covered with oil paint.

Fusarium

The disease leads to needles turning red, drying out, and falling off. Infection is transmitted through soil.

What to do

It is necessary to disinfect the soil in which the juniper grows. Disinfection is carried out with the preparations Fitosporin, Gamair, Fundazol. In case of severe damage, it is recommended to remove the top part of the soil and replace it with clean one.

Most often, fusarium is transmitted along with a purchased seedling. Therefore, when purchasing a new plant, carefully choose a nursery and do not make a purchase on the market.

Rust

The disease manifests itself as browning and yellowing of needles, as well as in the form of unsightly growths. Rust leads not only to damage to the needles, but also to the shoots, and in severe cases, to the trunk.

What to do

If you notice signs of rust, you must immediately remove all affected parts. Then spraying with Fundazol, Folicur, Topaz, and other antifungal preparations is carried out.

Video: How to properly care for juniper

In garden design, coniferous plants - all kinds of spruce, pine, juniper, fir, larch - are very noticeable “persons”, especially when it comes to decorating alpine slides. Let's focus on juniper, since other conifers are much easier to grow...

Juniper, although widespread in nature, is a rather delicate plant: if something goes wrong, it can dry out in the blink of an eye. Usually there are two reasons for this phenomenon: either an increase in the concentration of salts in the soil, or complete drying of the roots (often in young plants after planting). From this angle, let's look at growing juniper.

Growing conditions, planting

Despite the fact that juniper is considered a drought-resistant plant, you should not allow its roots to completely dry out throughout the entire depth of the soil. In nature, it likes to germinate in damp places (on hummocks, often in symbiosis with friendly plants such as birch) or in mountainous areas. In both cases, its roots are not in danger of completely drying out (stones retain moisture very well; in the mountains, rainwater is stored for a long time in crevices in the form of moist soil).

After planting, until the seedling has grown long roots, the soil around it simply needs to be mulched (sometimes when planting coniferous seedlings, it is recommended to shade them with branches in the first year).

The composition of the soil that would suit juniper is not difficult to choose: it is a mixture of peat, sand and a little clay (pH = 5-5.5). There is no need to apply any fertilizers - they can easily harm the juniper, besides, its annual growth is very small and the surrounding soil is enough for them. In addition, with an abundance of fertilizers, dwarf and creeping forms lose their refined appearance and turn into non-dwarf, ordinary ones.

When planting juniper, I would definitely use stones: at least three cobblestones laid on a flat surface and sprinkled with a mixture of soil and sand, on top of which the seedling can be placed. Its roots will penetrate under the stones and acquire a reliable frame. By the way, this also applies to planting mountain pine, thuja, etc.

Juniper is considered a light-loving plant, but sometimes it survives better in partial shade than in full sun. However, if the problem of providing it with moisture is solved, in a sunny place the bushes turn out to be denser and spreading.

Juniper propagation

Juniper cuttings take root well: out of 10 cuttings, 2-3 should give strong roots. In April, you need to cut the branches so that they have three “ages”, that is, growth of three years (juniper cuttings, which have three-year-old wood, take root better than one-year-old shoots). These cuttings should be placed in a permanent place in the garden, under glass, in diffused light, or you can place a piece of plywood on the sunny side. Juniper can also be propagated by seeds, although they take a very long time to germinate. To obtain seeds, you need to collect ripened purple berries; they ripen only in the second year.

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Coniferous trees in the garden are like resilient tin soldiers. They tolerate frosts, thaws, and the accumulation of wet snow, but they cannot survive the spring sun. To prevent conifers from baking in the sun, we will need your help.

Pest infestation

Sometimes gardeners notice that the juniper has turned yellow due to damage from harmful insects. Sucking pests are especially dangerous for the plant: they suck juices from the tissues of the conifer, depriving it of moisture and nutrients. As a result, the needles die, turn yellow, and fall off. Below is a review of commonly encountered insects.

Aphid

The pest loves young shoots, so it usually attacks juniper in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season. Ants spread aphids, so an important preventative measure is to destroy anthills on the site.

What to do

If damage occurs, spray the plant with a soap solution at intervals of 7-10 days. In case of severe infection, it is better to cut off and burn the most affected branches.

Shchitovka

This insect has a hard, impenetrable shell that protects it from insecticides. Thus, it is quite difficult to cope with scale insects.

What to do

For preventative purposes, in the spring the juniper trunk is coated with glue at the bottom, thus preventing the pest from moving upward to the branches and leaves. If damage has already occurred, potent insecticidal preparations are used in several stages, and visible insects are also collected manually.

Gall midges

Pests seem harmless to many gardeners, but in reality they are not. Both gall midge larvae and adults are dangerous. By the way, adult gall midges most resemble small mosquitoes. Insects secrete specific substances into the needles, leading to the appearance of unsightly growths – galls – on the tree’s crown.

What to do

It is necessary to fight gall midges if the beauty of the juniper is important. Usually, rather radical measures are taken, completely cutting off branches affected by pests and burning them.

Climate, weather

Juniper, although quite resistant to weather conditions, still sometimes suffers from some negative factors. Next are the most dangerous climatic and weather phenomena for the plant.

Air pollution

Some varieties of juniper exhibit rare resistance to high levels of harmful substances in the air. Such varieties are even recommended for planting on city streets.

However, there are varieties for which gas contamination is not suitable. Junipers with a similar “delicate” constitution react negatively to a polluted atmosphere, including yellowing of the needles. If the gas pollution is strong, the plant may even shed its needles. In this case, yellowing occurs evenly throughout the bush. The decorative effect suffers noticeably.

What to do

Unfortunately, we are unable to do anything with the air. It is necessary to initially select varieties that are resistant to gas contamination. If the wrong type of plant is planted, its decorative effect will be lost irrevocably

Harmful precipitation

If juniper is planted in an ecologically unfavorable region, yellowing of the needles is likely due to acid rain and other harmful precipitation. Such precipitation with a high sulfur content occurs especially often in the north-west of our country. Inside the crown, the needles usually remain the same color.

What to do

There is nothing to be done, you have to come to terms with it.

Preventive measures

Constant care and preventive treatment of juniper will help prevent many diseases. But besides this, other procedures are also important to reduce the risk of diseases.

In order for the plant to remain healthy and have a beautiful appearance, you need to adhere to the rules of its maintenance.

Necessary measures, such as choosing a place for planting, suitable soil for different types of crops, loosening, mulching and fertilizing, must be timely.

First of all, you should pay attention to the planting material, which should be fresh and healthy. If there are any suspicions in this regard, it is better to plant such seedlings separately from other plants that are already successfully grown.

During any work - replanting, pruning - any garden supplies, tools and containers must be thoroughly disinfected.

Most plants of this species are affected by diseases due to the high acidity of the soil, with the exception of a few shrubs that prefer an acidic composition. This means that it is necessary to take care in advance about adding lime to the soil.

The immunity and viability of the main organ, the root, largely depends on timely treatment with immunomodulatory agents. Judging by the reviews of gardeners, the most effective preparations that promote the formation and activity of the root system are the chelated microfertilizer “Siliplant” and the concentrated biostimulator “Super Humisol”, which regulates the basic life processes of juniper. You can use the unique growth stimulator "Epin Extra" or a biofertilizer produced by cultivating microorganisms - "Nikfan".

Do not forget about seasonal fertilizers, which play an important role in the condition of the crop. If the soil is fed in spring, autumn, and, if necessary, in summer with the necessary minerals, this will ensure normal nutrition of the roots and above-ground parts and reduce the threat of infection.

Insects found on branches and bark must be eliminated immediately, without waiting for them to multiply - a large number of pests most often cause irreversible damage and death of the conifer. Therefore, double or more use of strong insecticides will be required. As for prevention, the best way to protect bushes is to mulch their tree trunk space with pine bark.

After winter, juniper trees in the country often turn yellow, and this is not always the so-called physiological dryness due to frozen soil and lack of moisture. The larvae of some pests are able to overwinter on crops, so at the very beginning of spring it is necessary to set traps for caterpillars and carry out sanitary trimming of the affected branches.

It must be remembered that a prerequisite for the disease can be poorly drained soil, too close planting of shrubs, lack of lighting, and the presence of weeds.

Infestation by pests and infections does not occur if the conditions for growing juniper are favorable. In most cases, the causes of diseases are violations of agricultural technology requirements and the gardener’s own mistakes.

For more information on diseases and pests of juniper, see below.

Some varieties of this coniferous species can change color seasonally, but if the variety does not have this quality and the needles have turned yellow, you should carefully study the problem. It is important to know what to do if the juniper turns yellow after winter, in the fall, or if additional symptoms are present. You always need your own solution to the issue.